IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  1 4580 

(716)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


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Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  f.'iming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliogll^slphically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


n 


n 


D 


n 


D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommag^e 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^  et/ou  pellicul6e 


□    Cover  title  missing/ 
Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
ReM  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

Lareliure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  mar^^  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouttos 
lors  d'une  restauratlon  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6X6  fiim^es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microf  iimA  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mithode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquis  ci-dessous. 


The  c< 
to  the 


I      I   Coloured  pages/ 


'/ 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagies 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pellicul6es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxet 
Pages  dicoiordes,  tacheties  ou  piqu^es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d6tach6es 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  indgaie  de  i'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materit 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentaire 

idition  available/ 
Mition  disponible 


|~~1  Pages  damaged/ 

|~~|  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

1771  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

r^  Pages  detached/ 

I    1  Showthrough/ 

I      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

□  Only  edition  available/ 
Seule 


Their 
possit 
of  the 
filmin 


Origin 
begini 
the  la: 
sion, 
other 
first  p 
sion, 
or  illu 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partieilement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t^  fiimies  6  nouveau  de  fapon  6 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


The  la 
shall  ( 
TINUi 
which 

Maps, 
differ! 
entire 
begini 
right  1 
requiri 
methc 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

1 

j_ 

1 

12X 

16X 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

I 

alaire 
}8  details 
iques  du 
nt  modifier 
xiger  une 
Je  filmage 


d/ 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  the  Public 
Archives  of  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  Iceeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  bacic  cover  when  appropriate.  Ail 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  Illustrated  Impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  y  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


L'exemplaire  fiimt  fut  reprodult  grAce  A  la 
g4nArosit6  de: 

La  bibliothdque  des  Archives 
publiques  du  Canada 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soln,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetA  de  I'exempiaire  f  ilm6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  ImprimAe  sont  filmts  en  commen^ant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  c&j.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmte  en  commen9ant  par  la 
premiAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
dernlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUiVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


aire 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc..  ntav  be  filmed  at 
different  ceduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  In  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmfo  i  des  taux  de  reduction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reprodult  en  un  seul  clichA,  il  est  filmA  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


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intiii  tine  Routes  to 

THE 

SPRgyoS.JXIAGAJRA,  it  qWrBBMC, 

^  "Z^ aUoT^ ^ — ^ 


J   8c   J  .  HARPER  . 

1 


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T 


Sou 
E 
H 
R 
H 


TUK 


ri>    /f 


NORTHERN  TRA^VULIiUR, 


▲MO 


irORTMERN  TOUR^ 

WITH  TBI  ROUTES  TO 

THE  SPRINGS,  NIAGARA,  AND  QUEBEC, 

▲M  1>  THE 

COAL  MINES  OP  PENNSYLVANIA ; 

ALtO,  TBB 

TOUR  02?-  IfCW-BNGLAND. 


♦ 


EmbtUithid  wtth  ihirfy'iwo  Copperplate  Engravings. 

FOURTH  EDITION,  RETI9ED  AND  EXTENDED. 


NEW-YORK  : 

FRINIED  BY  J.  &  J.  HABP£R,  82  Curv«r. 

Sold  by  Collins  tc  Hannay.  Collins  A;  Co.,  O.  A.  Roorbach,  W.  B.  Gilley, 
E.  Bliag,  A.  T.  Goodrich,  C.  S.  Francis ;— Boston,  Ricbardton,  Lord,  and 
Holhirook,  Hilliard,  Gray,  it  Co.,  Carter  ic  Hendee,  Crocker  it  Brewtler, 
R.  P.  and  C.  Williams  ;~PhiIadelphia,  Carey  it  Hart,  J.  Grigg,  Towar  it 
Uogan,  u.  Hunt :— Baltimore,  W.  and  J.  Neall,  J.  Jewett,  Cinhing  & 
Pons. 

1830. 


SOUTHERN  DISTRICT  OF  NEW- YORK,  ** 

BE  IT  REMEMBERED,Thatonlhe  twnnty-second  day  of  April,  A.D. 
1830,  in  the  fifly-fourth  year  of  the  Independence  of  the  United  States  of 
America,  J.  &  J.  Harper,  of  the  said  District,  have  deposited  in  this  office 
the  title  of  a  Book,  the  right  wheyeof  they  claim  as  proprietors,  in  the 
words  following,  to  wit: 

"  The  Northern  Traveller  and  Northern  Tour,  with  the  Routes  to  the 
Spririss,  Niagara,  and  Quebec,  and  the  Coal  Mines  of  Pennsylvania ;  also, 
the  Tour  of  New-England.  Enibellished  with  thirty-two  Copperplate 
£ngravin|[s.    Fourth  Edition,  revised  and  extended.** 

In  conformity  to  the  act  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States,  entitled 
"  An  act  for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of 
maps,  charts,  and  books  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies, 
during  the  times  therein  mentioned."  And  also  to  the  act,  entitled,  "  An 
act  supplementary  to  an  act,  entitled  an  act  for  the  encouragement  of 
learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  maps,  charts,  and  books  to  the  authors 
and  proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  times  therein  mentioned,  i  nd 
extending  the  benefits  thereof  to  the  arts  of  designing,  engraving,  and 
etching  historical  and  other  prints." 

FREDERICK  I.  BETTS, 
.      Clfrie  nf  the  fi9v1hnrm  Diftrirf  of  J^nn-  T»rf: 


PREFACK- 


^ORK,  St. 

.fAprll,A.D. 
ted  States  ol 
in  this  office 
etora,  in  the 

outes  to  the 
vania;  also, 
Copperplate 

ates,  entitled 
he  copies  of 
such  copies, 
ntitled,  "  An 
rairement  of 
the  aiithnrfl 
ntioned,  (  nd 
[raving,  nnd 

S, 


Great  exertions  have  been  made  to  obtain  iic- 
counts  of  all  changes  that  have  taken  place  on  the 
various  routes  embraced  within  the  range  of  the 
Northern  Traveller,  since  the  publication  of  the  last 
edition,  as  well  as  to  add  all  necessary  remarks 
on  such  subjects  as  had  before  escaped  notice ;  and 
it  will  be  found  that  few  pages  have  been  passed 
without  the  insertion  of  something  new,  wliile  many 
have  1 3en  entirely  written  over  again,  and  consi- 
derable additions  have  been  made. 

The  rapid  sale  which  may  now  be  calculated  on, 
in  connexion  with  other  circumstances,  have  ena- 
bled the  publishers,  this  season,  to  offer  the  work 
at  a  greatly  reduced  price,  while  additions  have, 
been  made  to  its  embellishments. 

The  plan  of  the  "  Northern  Traveller"  was  ori- 
ginally suggested  by  a  reflection  on  the  immense 
numbers  of  intelligent  persons  who  annually  visit 
the  most  interesting  scenes  in  our  Northern  and 
Middle  States ;  and  a  knowledge  of  the  great  ad- 
vantages which  are  derived  from  works  of  a  cor- 
responding description  in  Europe.  No  pains  have 
been  spared  to  render  it  useful,  as  well  as  interest- 
ing; and,  as  far  as  the  necessary  brevity  would 
permit,  the  peculiar  character  of  our  citizens,  and 
the  nature  of  the  coimtry  have  been  kept  in  vie^^ 
in  the  plan  and  scope  of  the  work. 


Oil 


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G^NKHAL   1N1>KX. 


Pag< 

City  of  New- York 9 

From  New- York  to  Niagara  ....        20 


<( 


u 


346 


to  the  Springs  .  .  20—55.  129 
to  Canada  .  .  .  do.  do. 
to  Connecticut  River  and  / 
the  White  Mountains  S 
to  Boston     .         .       246—258.  297 

City  of  Philadelphia 402 

From  Philadelphia  to  New- York    .        .        .      432 
"  "  to  the  Coal  Mines 

City  of  Boston 

From  Boston  to  the  Springs 
"        "        to  the  White  Mountains     . 
••       **       to  Maine 
City  of  Washington        .... 
City  of  Baltimore        .... 


u 


M 


II 


414 
318 
329 
333 
362 
383 
389 


VIEWS  FROM  NATURE. 

Congress  Hall (facing  title, ' 

Scenery  on  the  Mohawk  River        ...        57 
Niagara,  from  below  the  Cataract       .        .        .87 

Ballston .145 

Saratoga    .        .        .        .        .        .        .        .  153 

Lake  George 166 

Ticonderoga 179 

Mount  Holyoke 278 

The  Notch  or  Wiliev  House,  (White  Mountains)  354 


viii 


OK^TEKAli  iJNllEX. 


MAPS. 

General  Map  of  the  Routes       ....      9 

Hudson  River,  No.  1 20 

"  "       No.  2 24 

««  "       No.3 31 

**  "       No.  4,  Canals  to  Schenectady)         .^ 

and  Sandy  Hill  \    '    ^ 

Erie  Canal,  to  Herkimer 56 

«        «     toSalina 62 

"        "     to  Rochester 68 

'^       *'     to  Lockport,  and  Road  to  Niagara       72 

•*        "     to  Buffalo         *        .        .        .        .109 

*'        "     to  Lyons,  and  Roa4  by  Geneva,  &c.  116 

**        "     to  Syracuse,  and  Road  by  Auburn      121 

I'rom  Fort  Edward  to  Whitehall  and  Lake  George  163 

Lake  George  and  Lake  Champlain     .        .        .  176 

lake  Champlain     ......      190 

St.  John's  to  Montreal 194 

Island  of  Montreal 206 

St.  Lawrence  River,  from  Montreal  to  Quebec   .  212 
Connecticut  River,  from  Hartford  to  the  Mouth    256 


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116 

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163 

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176 

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190 

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194 

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206 

sbec  . 

212 

louth 

256 

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NORTHERN   TRAVEL.LiER. 


-^ 


THE  CITY  OF  NEW-YORK. 

Hotels  and  Boarding  Houses.  The  Adelphi,  opposite 
the  Bow  ling-Green.  Mansion  House,  (Bunker,) 
39  Broadway.  City  Hotel.  National  Hotel.  Frank- 
lin House.  American  Hotel.  Washington  Hall,  cor- 
ner of  Broadway  and  Reed-street.  Mrs.  Southard, 
Mrs.  Mann,  Mrs.  Keese,  Mr.  Storer,  &c.  There  are 
also  the  U.  S.  Hotel,  Tontine,  Bank,  and  N.  Y.  Coffee 
Houses,  Tammany  Hall,  Pearl-st.  House,  N.  Y.  Ho- 
tel, &c. 

The  stranger  is  advised  to  purchase  a  pocket  map 
of  the  city,  if  he  is  to  remain  here  a  few  days ;  as 
without  it  he  will  often  find  himself  at  a  loss. 

The  Battery  is  a  pleasant  walk  in  warm  weather ; 
and  Castle  Garden  has  a  fine  promenade.  On  summer 
evenings  the  place  is  supplied  with  music,  and  often 
fireworks. 

Steamboats  for  Philadelphia,  The  boats  of  the 
Union  and  Citizen's  Lines  start  from  the  wharf  just 
north  of  the  Battery,  in  Washington-street,  at  6  A.M. 
and  at  noon. 

The  Staten  Island  Steamboats  go  from  the  foot  of 
Whitehall-street,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  Battery. 

Broadway,  the  most  fashionable  pumenade  in  the 
city,  is  most  crowded  with  passengers  between  1  and 
3  o'clock ;  or,  in  hot  weather,  atter  dinner.  Going 
up  from  the  Battery,  you  pass  the  Bowling  Green,  a 
new  hotel,  called  the  Adelphi  House,  many  genteel 

n 


10 


I'irv  or  xXEWVottK. 


hoarding   Tjouscs,  parllcularlv  the    Mansion   Housj  \ 
and  then  Grace  church,  and  Trinity  churcli. 

The  property  of  this  church  is  veiy  great,  lyinpf  in 
iarge  tracts  of  land  now  covered  by  the  city  streets. 
Opposite,  opens  Wall-streeU  which  contains  the  first 
Presbyterian  church,  most  of  the  banks,  with  the 
Branch  of  the  U.  S.  Bank,  together  with  nunnerous 
Insurance  and  Brokers^  Offices, 

The  JVeW'York  Exchange,  This  building  is  of 
white  marble  from  Westchester,  and  fronts  Wall- 
street,  between  William  and  Pearl-streets.  It  has 
tour  marble  columns  in  front,  made  of  single  shafts. 
The  exchange  room  is  large  and  resorted  to  by  mer- 
chants between  1  and  3  o'clock.  The  building  con- 
tains the  Post  Office  on  the  ground  floor,  the  Commer- 
cial Reading  Rooms  above,  with  several  Insurance 
OfficeSf  and  the  offices  of  Daily  Papers,  There  is  a 
telegraph  on  the  top  to  communicate  wilh  Sandy 
Hook, to  get  o^rly  intelligence  of  vessels.  On  arriving, 
they  show  flags  by  which  they  may  be  designated  30 
miles  from  Staton  Island.  The  view  from  the  cupola 
embraces  the  whole  city. 

Returning  to  Broadway,  beyond  Trinity  church  is 
the  City  Hotel ;  opposite,  the  National  Hotel ;  and  a 
little  further.  Cedar  and  Courtlandt-streeis,  leading  west 
to  the  docks  on  Hudson  river,  whence  some  of  the 
Albany  steam  boats  start.  At  the  latter  street  is  also  the 
Jersey  City  Ferry — 1.^. 

Tliie  Franklin  House,  corner  of  Dey-st.  and  Broad- 
way. Fulton-street  leads  to  Fulton  Market,  on  the 
East  river.  (There  is  the  lower  Brooklyn  ferry,  4 
cents  ;  at  the  next  dock  below,  are  the  Jvewport  and 
Providence  steamboats ;  and  just  above,  i/itJ  steamboats 
for  Flushing,NonxoJk,  Stamford,  Bridgeport,  Stratford, 
Kew-Ijovbdon  and  jYorwich.) 

St,  PauVs  Church  in  Broadway  is  next  above  Fulton- 
street.  A  monument  was  raised  in  the  portico  of  this 
church  some  years  ago,  to  General  Montgomery  ;  and 
in  1G18  the  remains  of  that  brave  officer  were  brought 


to 


to 


VAC\    OV   NEW-Y'OJiK. 


It 


numerous 


Irom  (Quebec  ;iiul  deposited  here,  wiili  military 
honofirs.  Jusi  beyond,  is  Pajf\s  exhibition  of  Pictures^ 
then  the  Park^on  the  opposite  of  which  is  the  Theairtf 
near  which  is  Clinton  Hall,  and  the  Bible  Society's 
Dtpository*  in  the  rear.  In  the  same  street  {JVassau) 
is  the  American  Trad  Society^ s  build ing^.f  Park  Place, 
on  the  left,  where  are  Colemari's  Literary  Rooms  and 
Exhibition,  leads  to  Columbia  College  ;  and  the  City 
Hall  is  in  the  Park,  with  the  Debtor''s  Prison  on  the 
east,  and  Bridewell  on  the  west.  Barclay-street  leads 
to  Hoboken  ferry,  and  the  Albany  steamboats. 

The  New-York  Institution  is  behind  the  City  Hall. 

The  Savings  Bank  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  Cham- 
bers-street. [There  were  deposites  made,  in  1829,  to 
the  amount  of  $624,900,  by  11,937  individuals,  almost 
all  poor  persons.]  Adjoining  the  latter  are  the  Xe:W' 
York  Baths  and  the  Arcade  Baths,  which  are  commo- 
dious, and  well  attended,  with  separate  entrances 
leading  to  the  ladies'  baths.  The  Exhibition  Room 
of  the  National  Academy  of  the  Arts  of  Design  and  the 
Marihattan  Water  Works  are  just  at  hand.  From  the 
latter  a  considerable  portion  of  the  dwellings  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  city  are  supplied  with  water,  though 
not  of  very  good  quality.  The  Court  of  Sessions  is  in  the 
Rotunda,  which  was  formerly  devoted  to  Panoramas. 

[A  short  distance  eastward.  Chambers-street  leads 
to  Chatham-street :  then  turning  to  the  left  you  may 
proceed  to  the  Chatham  Theatre,  Chatham-square,  the 
Bowery,  the  Bowery  Theatre,  &c.  &c.l 

On  the  other  hand.  Chambers-street  leads  west- 
ward to  the  Hudson  river  ;  and  at  the  loot  of  Warren- 
street,  next  below  it,  is  the  Public  Marine  Bath, 

*  Opposite  the  Depository,  is  a  workshop,  crecteif  in  185}7,  where  a 
steam  engine  is  seen  ou  the  firat  tloor,  which  woik^i  rii;lit  power  presses, 
ill  which  bibles  are  printed:  o.i  the  second,  ab((Vf',  are  tw<;nty  other 
presses.  The  pow(!r  presses  do  double  the  work  of  tlie  coinnioa  press  ; 
and  all  togetJier  can  print  400  reanih  of  paper  in  a  \v«'ok.  JSeventy-one 
persons  are  employed  in  tills  department,  in  tht;  other  building  tlie 
hindin^  is  d<nie  by  l\-2  persons. 

t-  Iii  the  American  Tract  Society's  hoiis*'  are  ten  cominnn,  and  four 
M(»n 'T  i)rf'«"<'s,  fliivrii  }tv  nin!<'< 


2.  ••^ 


CITY   or   ^EW-VORK. 


:i 


Helurning,  and  going  on  up  Broadway,  you  (lajs 
Washinpjton  HalJ.  [Duanc-street  leads,  on  the  left,  to 
Rutgers*  Medical  College^  and  Public  School,  JVo.  1 1,  on 
the  gTound  floor  of  which  is  an  Infant  SchcoL]  Masonic 
Hall  and  the  New-York  Hospital  are  a  little  beyond  ; 
and  Scudder^s  Museum  is  to  be  removed  to  the  corner 
of  Anthony-street. 

This  fine  broad  street  continues  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  further  on,  perfectly  straight,  and  nearly  all  built 
with  brick  houses  ;  but  cqntains  no  public  buildings, 
except  a  new  Gothic  church. 

Th'sre  is  also  in  the  city  an  Orphan  Asylum, 

A  fine  part  of  the  city  lies  north-west  from  the  hos- 
pital, about  Hudson-square.  The  streets  are  there 
more  regular,  and  the  square  itself  is  very  fine,  with 
St.  John's  church  in  front,  which  has  the  tallest  spire 
in  New- York. 

Among  the  other  public  buildings,  which  it  is  not 
easy  to  point  out  more  particularly,  are  the  Roman 
Catholic  Cathedral,  and  the  numerous  places  of  public 
worship  in  all  parts  of  the  city.  These  amounted  in 
1824,  to  84  in  all,  and  are  now  above  100.  The5^a/e 
Prison,  Penitentiary,  Fever  Hospital,  House  of  Refuge 
for  juvenile  delinquents.  Lunatic  Asylum:  these  are 
all  at  a  distance  from  the  centre  of  the  city. 

Public  Schools.  The  Public  School  Society  have 
eight  large  brick  houses  in  different  parts  of  the  city, 
averaging  about  42  by  85  feet  in  size,  valued  with 
their  furniture,  at  about  $150,000 ;  and  the  encum- 
brances, for  money  borrowed,  about  $50,000.  About 
5000  children  are  educated  at  these  schools,  most  of 
whom  pay  a  email  sum,  from  25  cents  to  $1,25  per 
quarter ;  but  none  are  excluded  who  are  unable  to 
pay.  The  schools  are  furnished  with  maps,  globes, 
libraries,  &c.  and  a  uniform  system,  after  the  Lancas- 
leiiai.  plan,  is  adopted  in  them  all.*    Two  of  them 

*  Common  School  Fund  and  Common  Schools  in  the  State  ofJ^cw-  YorJ:. 
— The  foundation  of  tlie  Coainiori  School  Fund  for  llie  State  of  New- 
York  was  laid  in  tlie  y<Mi"  1^09.  ;ind  liip  firet  distribution  of  tbo  ir.crinio 
t(Hik  pliicfin  l?^lt». 


ClTV    OF    >K\V-\.(>KK. 


13 


are  tor  Africans.  The  High'Schnol  receives  scholars 
in  higher  branches.  The  InfuHt  Schools  are  highly 
interesting  institutions.  The  Sunday  Schools  deserve 
particular  notice  for  their  usefulness ;  also  the  Me- 
chanics' Society's  School. 

The  Athen(rum  is  a  literary  institution  lately 
formed.  The  City  Library  is  larffe,  ai.d  there  are 
others  belonging  to  the  Societies  of  Merchants'  Clerks, 
-Apprentices,  &c.  There  are  Circulating  Libraries 
at  several  of  the  Bookstores  in  Broadway  and  else- 
where. 

The  Fire  Engines  are  remarkable  for  their  beauty 
and  excellence,  as  the  Fire  Department  is  for  its  em- 
ciencv  and  usefulness.  There  are  47  engines,  besides 
five  Hook  and  Ladder  companies. 

The  City  Hall  contains  the  common  council 
chamber,  with  portraits  of  Washington,  Hamilton, 
Jeft'erson,  and  Thompson ;   court  rooms,  the   police 

Tlie  produrtive  capital  of  this  fund  is  invested  inhnnds  and  mortgages, 
canal  and  bank  silockc),  and  nuw  ariiount  to  $1,661,081,  and  produces  oil 
j  iirouie  of  about  ^OSiOOO. 

TJie  State  <>\vns880,000  acres  of  land,  valued  at  $in,SJ88,  which  lands 
Jtre,  by  the  Constitution  of  the  State,  plodsed  for  the  support  of  common 
schools.  This  uives  a  grand  total  of  $-2,042,113,  exclusive  of  the  local 
scliooi  lund,  and  of  a  larpe  capital  donnmiuated  the  "  Literary  Fund :" 
the  income  from  which  is  annually  paid  towards  the  support  of  colleges 
and  academies. 

In  1820,  $214,840  was  paid  towards  the  support  of  common  schools — 
of  this  Buni  $100,000  was  paid  from  the  State  Treasury,  $ll,t)05  from 
the  income  of  the  loan  school  fund,  and  $102,934  was  raised  by  tax. 
'J'he  school  law  requires  that  a  sum  shall  be  assessed  on  their  taxable 
inhabitants  equal  to  the  sum  which  is  paid  from  the  State  Treasury  to 
ruch  town,  and  by  a  vote  at  their  town  meetings  double  the  amount  may 
l)e  raised  by  tax. 

There  are  50  counties,  742  cities,  towns,  and  wards,  every  one  of 
which  made  detailed  official  returns  of  their  schools  to  tlie  Secretary  of 
State,  in  1827. 

The  number  of  school  districts  was  8994,  the  schools  in  which 
contained,  in  1827,  441,850  children,  who  were  taught  on  an  average  6 
months.  In  1829,  480,825  phildren  were  taught  in  the  Common  Schools, 
at  an  expense  to  the  public  of  $511,888  for  teachers'  pay  alone. 

The  private  schools  in  the  State  of  New- York  are  also  very  numerous, 
and  it  is  a  low  estimate  to  suppose  the  sum  of  $500,000  is  annually  cx~ 
) 'ended  in  Uie  state  for  schools. 

h\  182«.  ^Tfi-SPS  votes  were  polled  in  the  state  of  New- York, 

B  2 


11 


I 


'  I 


!^ 


<ITi    01     NKW-VOIIK. 


oftice,  HiLC,  &,c.  Tlie  top  commands  a  fine  view  ol  the 
city ;  ana  access  may  be  had  on  applying  to  the  keeper. 

The  Liverpool^  LoiidoHf  ana  fiavre  Packets  are 
fine  vessels  and  some  ol"  them  anions  the  most  ele- 
gantly fijrnihhed  ships  in  the  world.  They  lie  at  dif- 
lere  jks  in  the  East  Kiver;  and  the  Liverpool  sail 

on  tue  1st,  Oih,  16th,  and  24ih  of  every  month,  and 
returning,  leave  Liverpool  on  the  same  days.  The 
Havre  packets  sail  on  the  1st,  10th,  and  20th.  The 
letter  bags  are  kept  at  the  bar  of  the  Tontine  Coffee 
House. — 6c/.  for  every  letter. 

Excursions.^  Numerous  pleasant  excursions  may 
be  made  from  New-York  in  various  directions.  Man- 
hattan Island  affords  several  agreeable  rides  ;  and  also 
Long  Island  and  the  neighbouring  parts  of  New-Jersey. 

Princess  Linnatan  Garden  at  Flushing.      The  ex- 

♦  Rales  of  Havknnj  Coaches.— lly  the  1st  section  of  the  law  for  regu- 
lating Hackney  Carriayt's,  it  is  ordained  tiiut  ihe  rates  or  pi  ices  to  bi; 
token  by  ilie  owners  or  drivt'is  of  liar liney  carriages  on  the  stands  thcrciu 
mentioned,  viz.  Trinity  Cluirch  and  I'ark,  for  ilie  conveyance  of  passea- 
get:),  shall  be  as  follows,  viz, 

$cts. 

For  any  distance  not  exceeding  one  mile,  for  each  person 00  25 

For  any  distance  over  one  mile,  and  within  the  Lamp  and  VVatcli 

District,  for  a  single  passenger 00  50 

For  two  passengers,  each 00  37 

For  each  additional  passenger 00  25 

.Foi  attending  a  funeral  in  town 2  00 

For  one  or  more  passengers,  not  exceeding  four,  around  the  first, 

or  Sandy  Hill  tour 1  00 

For  one  or  more  passengers,  not  exceeding  four,  around  the  second, 

or  Love  Lane  tour 2  00 

For  one  or  more  passengers,  not  exceeding  four,  around  the  third, 

or  Lake's  tour 2  50 

For  one  or  more  passengers,  not  exceeding  four,  arouud  the  fourth, 

or  Apthorp's  tour 4  00 

For  one  or  more  passengers,  not  exceeding  four,  to  Harlaem  and 

back 4  00 

For  one  or  more  passengers,  not  exceeding  four,  to  King's  Bridge 

and  back,  with  the  privilege  of  keeping  the  carriage  sdl  day 5  00 

And  whiMiever  Hackney  Carriages  shall  be  hired  or  paid  by  time,  ox 
detained,  the  rates  or  prices  shall  be  as  follows :  Uiat  is  to  say, 
For  any  time  not  exceeding  one  hour  dols.  09  75 

tiod  in  proportion  for  a  greater  or  Ics^  time- 

The  penalty  for  demanding  a  higher  fare  than  the  preceding  is  TVn 
Dollars ;  for  refusing  to  be  employed  when  disengaged,  Ten  Dollars ; 
sgod  for  joot  having  a  copy  of  the  rates  ra  cgacJi  carriage,  Fifteen  Dollars 


N 


SLUOULEV  tt    MOLM'AIA. 


h» 


ue  view  ol  tLo 
to  the  keeper. 
•  Packets  arc 
the  most  ele- 
hey  lie  at  dif- 
Liverpool  sail 
y  month,  and 
days.  The 
i  20th.  The 
bntine  Coffee 

:ursions  may 
itions.  Man- 
ies ;  and  also 
New- Jersey. 
?•     The  ex- 

the  law  for  regu- 
28  or  prices  to  hi: 
the  stands  therein 
yance  of  passcii- 

$cts. 

•n 00  25 

nd  VVatcli 

00  50 

00  37 

00  2;; 

a  00 

the  first, 

, 1  00 

le  second, 

2  00 

the  third, 

2  50 

le  fourth, 

4  00 

tern  and 

4  00 

s  Bridge 

day 5  00 

aid  by  time,  ox 
0  say, 

dols.  00  75 

ecedlng  is  Ten 
,  Ten  Dollars . 
iftetn  Dollars 


«:ursion  to  this  beautiful  garden  and  nursery  is  very 
pleasant.  The  Steamboat  leaves  Fulton-street  Slip  at 
hours  particularized  every  day  in  the  newspapers,  and 
affords  a  view  of  the  most  interesting  parts  of  the  Cast 
River ;  including  the  famous  rapids  at  Hurl  Gate. 
The  village  is  small  but  pleasant.  The  garden  of  Mr. 
Prince  will  supply  strangers  of  taste  and  science  with 
rare  seeds,  plants,  flowers,  and  trees,  and  has  already 
done  much  to  introduce  useful  and  beautiful  varieties 
into  this  country.  It  was  first  established  about  the 
middle  of  the  last  centuiy. 

The  4  hot  houses  contam  about  20,000  plants  in  pots  ; 
and  the  garden  covers  at  least  30  acres.  The  species 
and  varieties  of  trees  and  plants  amount  to  about  8000, 
which  is  considered  the  most  numerous  collection  in 
America.  The  proprietor  exerts  himself  to  obtain  all 
the  native  productions,  as  well  as  all  interesting  exotics, 
and  for  specimens  forwarded  to  him  he  offers  to  make 
satisfactory  returns  from  his  own  collection.  He  had, 
in  1827,  127  varieties  of  apples,  202  of  pears,  cherries 
76,plums  139,  and  peaches  84. 
The  JVavy  Yard,  at  Brooklyn.  See  "  East  River.''* 
Bath,  Rockaway  and  Gr  nesend,  on  Lon^  Island, 
and  Long  Branch,^  (Hotels  by  Renshaw  and  Sears,) 
in  New-Jersey,  fine  situations  on  the-  seacoast,  arc 
among  the  most  attractive  for  bathing,  &c. 

SCHOOLEY'S  MOUNTAIN. 

This  is  a  very  fashionable  resort  during  the  warm 
season,  particularly  for  visiters  from  New- York.  The 
situation  is  -^ery  pleasant,  in  a  variegated  tract  of 
countnr ;  anc  affords  a  most  agreeable  retreat,  with  fine 
air  and  good  accommodations. 

At  the  city  of  New- York  many  travellers  will  com- 

*  The  American  Navy  consists  of  forty  vessels :  of  which  there  are 
seen  74'8,  or  slup.^  of  the  line;  seven  44's,  or  frigates  of  the  first  class ; 
three  of  the  second  class ;  twelve  sloops  of  war ;  scvon  schooners,  and 
jother  vessels. 

t  This  is  a  fashionable  resort. 


10 


UT\    OF   AEW-VUUK. 


mence  their  tours  in  differtnt  directions  ;  and  a  giancv 
at  the  general  Map  of  the  Routes,on  thepreceding:  page, 
will  assist  them  in  laying  their  plans.  The  Union  morn- 
ing line  of  steamboats  is  recommended  for  Philadelphia. 
The  Lehigh  Coal  Mines  may  be  visited  by  taking  one 
of  the  steamboats  to  New-Brunswick,  and  there  a  stage 
coach :  or  a  stage  coach  from  Jersey  City.  By  that 
route  the  traveller  may  proceed  north  to  the  line  of  the 
Erie  Canal,  or  by  the  nirect  line  to  Ithaca,  &c.  The 
larger  morning  boats  offer  the  most  rapid,  and  on  the 
whole  the  most  agreeable  means  of  travelling  up  the 
Hudson  river.  A  visit  to  the  Catskill  Mountains,  and 
an  excursion  to  Lebanon  Springs,  via  Hudson,  are  very 
pleasant  variations  from  tlie  common  routine  of  the 
route  to  Albany. 

A  ^ood  general  tour  is  as  follows — New-York, 
Catskill,  Albany,  the  Springs,  Lake  George,  back  to 
the  Sprin8:s,  Schenectady,  (or  Johnstown,)  Niagara, 
down  Lake  Ontario,  Montreal,  Quebec,  Montreal,  up 
Lake  Champlain  to  Burlington,  cross  the  country  to 
Connecticut  River  and  Boston — back  to  New-York  by 
Connecticut  River,  or  by  Providence. 

This  may  be  varied  at  pleasure.  The  Springs  may 
be  visited  after  the  tour  has  been  accomplished  ;  and 
this  will  be  preferred  by  many,  to  enjoy  repose  after 
fatigue,  and  to  see  the  countiy  in  the  earlier  and  cooler 
part  of  the  season.  Some  may  choose  first  to  travel 
eastward  ;  and  then  they  will  take  one  of  the  steam- 
boats which  run  in  that  direction.  Information  con- 
cerning most  of  the  land  routes  may  be  obtained  at  the 
coach  offices  in  Courtlandt-street,  near  Broadway. 

TO  THE  COAL  MINES. 

A  stage  coach  goes  in  a  day  from  Powles'  Hook  to 
Easton ;  another  route  is  from  New-Brunswick.  {See 
Easton.) 


THE    MDKUIS   CA.NAL. 


THE  MORRIS  CANAL. 

Tliis  Canal  will  offer  a  new  and  direct  route  to  the 
Anthracite  Coal  Mines  at  Mauch  Chunk,  Penn. 

It  will  leave  the  Hudson  river  opposite  New-York 
city  at  Powles'  Hook.  After  passing  through  the  low 
p:rounds  it  reaches  an  elevated  tract  50  feet  above  it, 
up  which  it  rises  by  an  inclined  plane.  Boats  are 
about  ten  minutes  in  being  drawn  up  by  machinery. 
The  old  road  through  Newark  marshes  will  make  a 
towing  path. 

The  inclined  plane  near  Bloomfield  is  624  feet  long, 
and  surmounts  an  elevation  of  52  feet  perpendicular, 
having  an  inclination  of  one  foot  in  every  12.  When 
a  boat  is  drawn  to  the  top  of  the  plane,  it  is  received 
into  an  empty  lock,  into  which  the  water  is  admitted 
from  above,  and,  by  its  own  operation  closes  the  gates 
behind  it,  thus  floating  it  up  to  the  upper  level.  The 
wheels  of  the  machinery  are  provideu  against  too  rapid 
a  motion,  by  a  contrivance  by  which  wedges  are  sppn- 
taneously  dropped  to  stop  them. 

Dover  is  a  village  which  lies  a  little  beyond ;  and  at 
a  short  distance  the  canal  rises  to  the  summit  level, 
which  is  supplied,  for  ten  miles,  from  a  pond.  Not 
less  than  twenty  miles  of  the  whole  route,  the  canal 
runs  through  narrow  ravines,  between  high  ridges  of 
granite,  which  abound  in  valuable  minerals,  heretofore 
transported  by  land  to  a  distance  to  be  wrought. 

With  the  exception  of  the  Mountain  Ridge,  the  land 
through  which  the  Morris  Canal  passes  is  fertile  and 
populous.  The  whole  rise  and  fall  upon  the  route 
amounts  to  890  feet ;  and  this  is  overcome  by  inclined 
planes,  instead  of  locks,  at  as  little  expense,  it  is  de- 
clared, as  the  lockage  of  250  feet  would  cost. 

Newark  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  places  in  the 
state.  The  Canal  winds  thence  to  Paterson,  where  it 
passe.5  alonsr  Hie  rocks  below  the  falls,  throueh  rx- 


1« 


CITY    OF   NEW-YORK. 


Eensive  excavations.  It  crosses  the  Passaic  above  the 
ittle  Paterson  falls,  on  an  arched  stone  aqueduct,  50 
feet  span. 

Paterson  is  a  large  and  flourishing  manufacturing 
village,  situated  just  below  the  great  and  picturesque 
falls  of  the  Passaic,  from  which  the  water  is  supplied 
for  turning  the  machinery  of  numerous  large  esta- 
blishments. The  place  has  grown  up  from  almost 
obscurity  within  20  years,  and  latel)r  contains  about 
8000  inhabitants.  The  amount  of  capital  invested  was 
estimated  in  1828  at  above  a  million. 

In  the  town  there  are  seventeen  cotton  factories, 
containing  30,000  spindles ;  one  flax  or  sail  duck 
factory,  with  1600  spmdles ;  one  slitting  and  rolling 
mill  and  nail  factory,  working  annually  896,000  pounds 
of  iron,  costing  $10,320,  and  making,  yearly,  851,200 
pounds  of  nails.  The  cotton  factories  consume, 
annually,  2,000,000  pounds  of  cotton,  and  the  flax 
factory  600,000  pounds  of  flax. — There  is  one  machine 
shop  employing  150  hands,  connected  with  which  is 
an  iron  and  brass  foundry,  working  annually  600,000 
pounds  of  iron,  and  16,500  pounds  of  brass :  the  esti- 
mated yearly  value  of  the  iron  and  brass  castings  is 
$25,000. 

The  scenery  at  the  falls  is  celebrated  for  its  pic- 
turesque character.  A  perpendicular  wall  of  solid 
rock  rises  from  the  side  ot  a  lai^e  basin  formed  by  the 
river,  into  which  the  stream  falls  in  foam,  from  the 
height  of  70  feet.  A  man  repeatedly  sprung  from 
that  height  into  the  water  in  1828,  without  injury. 

When  the  canal  leaves  the  Passaic,  it  runs  a  few  miles 
in  the  valley  of  Pompton  river,  then  through  a  rougher 
country  to  Mayville,  where  it  rises  140  feet  by  two 
inclined  planes.  Thence  to  Boonton  Falls  on  Kock- 
away  river,  and  up  Another,  80  feet.  The  river  has  a 
fine  fall,  well  dammed,  to  supply  the  canal  and  several 
mills.  At  Dover  are  iron  works.  At  Rockaway  is  a 
plane  rising  52  feet. 

Th<^re  is  a  direft  road  to  Buffalo  through  Ifhara^ 


h}i 


hOOli^    AiM>   MAPS. 


i^^ 


riie  loUowin^  list  of  books  and  maps  is  given  for 
(hose  who  may  wish  for  more  details  concerning  the 
northern  states  than  we  are  able  to  furnish  in  the  present 
summary  view. 

BOOKS. 

History  of  the  New- York  Canals. 

Smith's  History  of  New-York. 

Picture  of  New-York  and  Stranger's  Guide. 

Dr.  D wight's  Travels  in  the  New-England  States 
and  New- York. 

Professor  Silliman's  Short  Tour  to  Montreal  and 
Quebec,  in  18mo. 

Tanner's  Strangers'  Guide  to  Philadelphia. 

Van  Rensselaer's  Geological  Survey  of  the  Canal 
Route. 

Hibernicus's  Letters  on  the  New-York  Canal. 

Spafford's  Gazetteer  of  the  State  of  New-York. 

Spafford's  Pocket  Guide  to  the  Canal  Route. 

Gazetteers  of  New-Hampshire  and  Vermont. 

Spafford's  Gazetteer  of  Massachusetts. 

Description  Topographique  He  la  Province  du  Bas 
Canada,  avec  des  reinarques  sur  la  Haute  Canada,  et 
^ur  les  relations  des  deux  provinces  d'Amerique.  Par 
Joseph  Bouchette. 

<ireenbank's  Views  of  American  Scenery. 

Pictures  of  Boston,  Quebec,  &c. 

MAPS, 

Eddy's  Map  of  the  State  of  New-Yoi-k. 
Vance's  Map  of  the  Western  Part  of  the  same. 
Goodrich's  Map  of  the  Hudson  River. 
Daggett's  Map  of  Connecticut. 
Bouchette's  Maps  of  Canada. 
Tanner's  Maps  of  different  states,  &,c. 


20 


^JiW-YOKK   TUALBA^V. 


ROUTE  FROM  NtW-YORK  TO  ALBANY. 

The  followinff  steamboats  ply  between  New- York 
and  Albany.  North  America,*  Ohio,  New  Philadel- 
phia, Albany,  Victory,  Sandusky,  Olive  Branch, 
Bristol,  Constitution,  Constellation,  and  Chief  Justice 
Marshall. 

There  are  also  others  to  intermediate  places.  Most 
of  the  Troy  and  Albany  boats,  however,  stop  or  touch 
at  those  places.  These  boats  lie  about  the  docks 
at  Courtlandt,  Cedar,  and  Barclay-streets. 

There  is  some  difference  in  the  charges  of  the  boats, 
but  the  accommodations  travellers  will  find  on  board 
of  them  are  generally  good,  except  when  they  are  too 
much  crowded  with  passengers.  Strangers  will  ge- 
nerally prefer  the  large  ones,  because  they  are  furnished 
with  an  upper  deck,  called  the  promenade,  which  is 
sheltered  from  the  sun  by  an  awning,  and  affords  a 
much  more  uninterrupted  prospect,  as  well  as  better 
air.  As  two  or  three  will  go  every  day,  and  the  tra- 
veller can  choose  belter  for  himself,  it  is  unnecessary 
to  make  any  further  suggestions,  except  that  ladies 
particularly  will  prefer  the  day  boats,  unless  they  are 
too  much  crowded. 

Cautions.  If  luggas^e  is  sent  by  a  porter,  ask  him 
for  his  number^  so  that  if  he  is  negligent  or  dishonest,  he 
may  be  reported  at  the  police  office.  It  is  best  to  go 
to  the  steamboat  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  before  the  time 
of  departure,^  to  avoid  the  crowd  which  always  col- 
lects at  the  dock. 

PASSAGE  UP  THE  HUDSON  RIVER. 

On  leaving  New- York,  the  traveller  finds  himself  in 
the  midst  of  a  fine  and  varied  scene.    The  battery 

*  This  boat,  in  1828,  made  the  shortest  passase  ever  known  bct\veo;i 
Acw-York  and  Albany -viz.  in  10  hours  and  30  minutes. 


>  ALBANY. 

ten  New- York 

New  Philadel- 

Olive    Branch, 

Chief  Justice 

places.  Most 
r,  stop  or  touch 
out  the  docks 
its. 

3s  of  the  boats, 
find  on  board 
en  they  are  too 
igers  will  ge- 
J  are  furnished 
lade,  which  is 
and  affords  a 
welJ  as  better 
'U  and  the  tra- 
is  unnecessary- 
it  that  ladies 
iless  they  are 

)rter,  ask  bim 
r  dishonest,  he 
t  is  best  to  go 
jfore  the  time 
\  always  col- 


RIVER. 

ids  himself  in 
The  battery 

r  known  bctwcr*/! 


»***iai^ft5L,,,.... 


UiffTth 


Lt^ATlC   AS^Ltiil. 


'ii 


.ril.rl.;-  Kn.,r NX 


ii2s  behind  him,  with  Governor's  Island  and  Casllc 
Williams  projecting  beyond  ;  still  mort;  distant  opens 
the  passage  called  the  Narrows,  with  Staten  Island  on 
the  right,  leading  to  Sandy  Hook  and  the  Atlantic 
Ocean,  which  is  22  miles  from  the  city.  On  the  west 
side  of  the  Bay  are  Bedlow's  and  Gibbet  Islands,  with 
fortifications;  the  point  at  the  mouth  of  the  Hudson  is 
Powles'  Hook,  on  which  stands  a  small  town  in  New- 
Jersey  called  Jersey  City ;  and  the  village  of  Hoboken 
is  seen  a  mile  or  more  up  the  river.  The  hills  of 
Weehawken  appear  beyond  :  as  the  boat  moves  ra- 
pidly on,  it  passes  the  crowded  line  of  buildings  in 
Washington-street,  the  North  Battery,  and  the  village 
of  Greenwich. 

At  Weehawken,  under  a  led^e  of  rocks  facing  the 
river,  and  about  the  distance  ot  three  miles  from  the 
city,  is  the  spot  where  General  Alexander  Ha*  liton 
fell  in  a  duel  with  Col.  Burr.  A  monument  of  white 
marble  was  erected  to  his  memory  on  the  place  ;  but 
it  has  been  removed  within  a  few  years.  This  is  the 
common  duelling  ground  for  combatants  from  the  city, 
and  many  lives  nave  been  lost  on  this  fatal  spot. 

The  ralisadoes — a  remarkable  range  of  precipices 
of  trap  rock,  which  begins  near  this  place,  extends  up 
the  river  on  the  west  side  20  miles,  to  Tappan,  and 
forms  a  singula^',  and  in  many  places  an  impassable 
boundary.  In  some  places  an  old  red  sandstone  foun- 
dation is  seen  below  ;  but  the  great  mass  of  the  rocks 
presents  the  mural  precipices  of  the  trap  formation, 
and  rises  from  the  height  of  16  or  20  feet  to  500  or  560. 

The  eastern  shore  of  the  river  opposite  the  Palisa- 
does,  is  for  many  miles  handsomely  rounded  with  jaills, 
and  presents  many  scenes  of  cultivation,  which  con- 
trast with  the  rude  cliffs  on  the  left.  The  soil  is  infe- 
rior ;  and  the  wood  land  encroaches  too  much  upon 
the  fields  and  orchards. 

The  Lanalic  Jisylum,  about  7  miles  from  the  city, 
is  a  large  building  of  hewn  stone,  occupying  a  coitt- 
raanding  situation, 

C 


w«0^ 


.NKW-VOKK   TO   ALUA^\. 


' 


Harlcem  Heights  are  a  short  distance  further.  'J'bey 
form  an  elevated  rid^e  across  Manhattan  island,  on 
which  a  line  of  fortifications  was  thrown  up  duringthe 
Revolution  and  the  late  war  quite  over  to  the  tiast 
river. 

Fort  Lee,  on  the  west  side  ot  the  river,  is  situated 
on  the  brow  of  the  PalisaUoes,  more  than  300  feet 
above  the  river. 

Fort  Washington  was  a  fortress  on  the  top  of  a  high, 
rounded  hill,  on  the  east  side  of  ihe  river,  12  miles  from 
New-York.  In  October,  1776,  when  Cen.  Washing- 
ton had  evacuated  the  city,  and,  subsequently  to  the 
battle  of  White  Plains,  (for  which  see  just  beyond,) 
had  drawn  off  his  army  to  Fort  Lee,  Fort  Washingtory 
was  kept  garrisoned,  contrary  to  his  advice,  and  was 
attacked  in  tour  divisions.  The  Hessians  and  Wal- 
deckers,  under  Gen.  Knyphausen,  went  up  ihe  hill  on 
the  north  side.  Gen.  Matthews  on  the  east,  wilh  the 
English  light  infantry  and  guards,  marched  against  the 
intrenchrnents,  which  reached  almost  to  the  East  river. 
Col.  Sterling  made  a  feint  of  crossing  that  river  lower 
down,  while  Lord  Percy  with  a  very  strong  corps  was 
to  act  against  the  western  flank. 

The  Hessians  suffered  much  from  the  riflemen  in 
passing  the  swamp,  but  succeeded,  wilh  the  other  di- 
visions, in  driving  the  Americans  into  this  tort,  where 
they  all  surrendered,  to  the  number  of  2600  men,  in- 
cluding militia.  They  had  lost  very  tew  ;  but  the 
British'  lost  about  800. 

Fort  Lee  was  immediately  evacuated  ;  but  the  Bri^ 
tish  crossed  so  speedily  at  Dojbs's  Ferry,  that  they 
took  the  artillery,  military  stores,  bagg:ige,  and  tents 
of  the  American  anny. 

Battle  of  White  rlains.  In  October,  1776,  soon 
after  the  American  troops  evacuated  New-York, 
while  General  Washington  had  his  army  assembled  at 
Kingsbridge,  and  the  British  were  in  possession  of  the 
island  up  as  far  as  Harlsem,  General  Howe  came  up 
the  East  river,  with  an  intention  of  surrounding  the 


U'AUltVTOW^. 


23 


)ng  corps  was 


Americans.  He  left  his  German  corps  at  New-Ko- 
ohe lie,  and  marched  for  tlie  high  g:rounds  at  While 
Plains,  several  miles  east  of  the  Hudson,  to  seize  the 
interior  road  between  the  city  and  Connecticut. 

Washington  penetrated  his  design,  and  intrenched 
himself  on  the  west  side  of  the  small  river  Bronx,  with 
his  right  on  Valentine's  hill,  and  his  left  on  White 
Plains.  He  had  p:arrisons  near  Harlaem,  at  Kings- 
bridge,  and  Fort  Washington.  Skirmishes  were  kept 
up  till  the  British  approached  very  near ;  when 
Washington  assembled  all  his  troops  in  a  strong  camp 
on  the  heights  near  the  plains,  with  the  Bronx  in  front 
and  on  the  rie:ht  flank,  and  a  mountainous  region  in  the 
rear.  The  right  was  more  accessible ;  and  General 
M^Dougal  was  sent  to  intrench  himself  on  a  mountain 
about  a  mile  in  front. 

On  the  morning  of  October  28th,  the  British  ad- 
vanced in  two  columns  :  the  right  by  General  Clinton, 
and  iUe  left  by  General  Heister.  The  former  t(X)k 
post  on  the  Mamaroneck  road  and  the  latter  on  the 
Bronx, — the  armies  being  a  mile  distant.  Col.  Ralle 
with  a  Hessian  regiment  fell  upon  General  M*Dougal 
in  flank,  while  Ledie  attacked  him  in  front  with  a  bri- 
gade. The  militia  soon  fled,  but  the  regular  troops" 
resisted  until  overpowered.  The  British  determined 
to  wait ;  and  on  the  following  morning,  finding  the 
American  position  much  strengthened,  and  a  height  in 
the  rear  occupied  by  the  left  wins:,  sent  for  more 
troops  and  erected  batteries.  Washington,  therefore, 
retired  to  North  Castle  ;  and  soon  after,  securing  the 
bridge  over  the  Croton,  and  Peekskill,  crossed  the 
Hudson. 

fhrt  Independence,  on  the  east  ^fde.  Opposite,  the 
Palisadoes  Hn^  of  still  greater  height. 

Dobbs's  Ferry,  10  miles. 

Tarrvtown,  S-j  miles.  This  is  the  place  where 
Major  Andre  was  stopped,  returning  from  his  visit  to 
Gen.  Arnold,  and  on  his  way  to  the  British  lines.  The 
place  was  then  neutral  ground,  as  the  Americans  and 


f 


24 


>KW-¥ORK   TO   ALfiA:«V. 


English  lay  encamped  above  and  below.  The  tree 
was  recently  standing  under  which  his  captors  searched 
him,  and  the  bank  near  by  had  concealed  them  from 
his  view  as  he  approached  them.  It  was  a  large 
tulip  tree,  26  feet  round  and  lit  feet  high.  It  was 
struck  by  lightning  in  1801. 

Tappan,  on  the  west  side.  Andre  was  executed 
about  a  mile  west  of  the  river  in  this  town. 

The  State  Prison,  at  SingvSing,  is  in  a  quadrangle  of 
nearly  44  feet  by  480.  It  has  a  double  stack  of  cells 
built  back  to  back,  4  tiers  high  and  200  on  each  tier  : 
in  all  800.  9  feet  distant  is  the  outer  wall,  which 
supports  a  gallery  running  all  round;  size  of  the 
cells,  3  ieei  6  inches  by  7  feet,  and  2  feet  door  way. 
The  whole  work  was  done  by  convicts,  and  a  great 
part  is  of  hewn  stone.  The  system  is  tne  best — that 
of  the  Auburn  prison. 

The  Singsing  prison  is  in  plain  view  from  the  steam* 
boats,  being  only  a  few  feet  from  the  shore.  The  ex- 
cellence of  this  system  of  prison  discipline,  which  is 
the  invention  of  Mr.  Lynds,  the  superintendent,  (for- 
merly superintefident  at  Auburn,)  consists  in  its  cuttir^ 
off  ail  intercourse  among  the  prisoners.  They  are  se- 
parately lodgied ;  and  though  they  work  t^ether,  tb^y 
cannot  converse,  even  by  signs,  and  therefor^  can  con- 
cert hothmg,  and  cannot  contaminate  each  other. 

Skepy  Hollow,  rendered  interesting  by  Mr.  Irving, 
is  a  little  above  Singsing. 

The  Entrance  of  the  Highlands  is  a  short  distance 
beyond  this  jplace,  and  40  mites  from  New-York. 
This  is  a  region  no  less  remarkable  for  the  important 
military  events  of  which  it  has  been  the  theatre,  than 
for  the  grandeur  and  nobleness  of  its  natural  scenery. 

Stony  Point,  The  little  rough  promontory  on  the 
left,  nearly  a  mile  below  the  entrance  of  the  High- 
lands, was  a  fbrtified  position  during  the  American 
war.  The  British  took  it  from  Gen.  Wayne  in  1778, 
but  lost  it  again  t  same  year.  There  is  a  lighthouse 
nj]  the  top. 


iv.  The  tree 
pfors  searched 
ed  them  from 
was  a  large 
high.    It  was 

ivas  executed 
vn. 

quadrangle  of 
stack  of  cells 
on  each  tier : 
wall,  which 
size  of  the 
6t  door  way. 
,  and  a  great 
tie  best— that 

om  the  steam- 
are.  The  ex- 
ine,  which  is 
tendent,  (for- 
in  its  cutting 
They  are  se- 
top^ether,  tb&y 
ifOT^  can  con- 
each  otfcer. 
Mr.  Irving, 

hprt  distance 
New-York, 
le  important 
theatre,  than 
jral  scenery, 
itory  on  the 
f  the  High- 
e  American 
yn6  in  1778, 
a  lighthouse 


iW»r/ft 


0          / 

^       / 

Ti            / 

^'            \ 

Park  *               \ 

<^  \» . 


'«aok    I 


ill 


r  x  A  M    c  o. 


shiii 


STONY    POINT. 


2:> 


tt.,./r. 


•  VerplanckU  Point,  on  the  opposite  side,  was  also  the 
site  o!  a  fort ;  but  is  now  ornamented  with  a  hand- 
some private  mansion,  and  the  rocks  near  the  landing 
are  tastefully  variegated  with  a  lawn,  an  arbour,  and 
many  fine  trees. 

FORT  MONTGOMKRY  AND  FORT  CLINTON. 

5  miles. 

These  forts  were  taken  by  Sir  Henry  Clinton,  on  the 
6th  of*  October,  1777.  His  object  was  to  co-operate 
with  Gen.  Burj^oyne,  at  that  time  <  losel-  watched  by 
Gen.  Gates  near  Saratoga,  an;^  to  afford  hitn  an  oppor- 
tunity to  force  his  way  to  Hudson  river,  by  effectins:  a 
diversion  in  his  favour.  For  this  purpose  Sir  11. 
Clinton  had  left  Ncw-Vork  with  3  or  4,000  troops, 
embarked  in  the  fleet  and  landed  at  Verplanck's 
Point.  The  next  morning:  a  detachment  was  sent  to 
Stony  Point,  and  marched  round  in  the  rear  of  these 
forts,  then  under  the  command  of  Gen.  Putnam,  and 
garrisoned  by  1000  continental  troops,  part  of  whom 
were  unfit  for  duty,  and  a  small  number  of  militia. 

Gen.  Putnam,  apprized  of  the  landing  made  at  Ver- 
planck's  Point,  and  supposing  the  object  of  the  expe- 
dition to  be  Fort  Independence,  had  crossed  the  river 
and  made  preparations  to  oppose  them.  He  did  not 
discover  their  real  intentions  until  he  heard  the  firing 
at  forts  Montgomery  and  Clinton,  which  are  near  eacn 
other,  and  were  attacked  at  the  same  moment.  The 
fighting  began  between  four  and  five  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon,  and  lasted  till  dark,  when  the  Americans 
havinsr  lost  about  250  men,  the  torts  were  surrendered  ; 
but  u'l  (he  troops  who  were  able,  about  450,  effected 
theii  escape,  with  the  Governor  and  his  brother  Gen. 
James  Clinton.  The  British,  proceeding  to  West 
Point,  removed  the  chain  which  bad  been  stretched 
across  the  river  to  prevent  the  passage  of  their  ships ; 
and  a  part  of  the  fleet,  under  Sir  James  Wallace,  went 
up  to  Kingston,  with  Gen.  Vaughan  and  his  troops. 

no 


Sd 


?>i:\V-iORK   TO  ALBAiNV. 


Although  the^r  found  the  village  defenceless,  the  offi- 
cers ordered  it  to  be  burned  on  the  13th  of  October. 
The  British  proceeded  no  further  than  that  place  ;  for 
the  news  of  Burgoyne's  surrender  being  received  a  few 
days  afterward,  the  fleet  returned  to  New-York. 

AfUhonxfs  Nost.  This  mountain  (which  has  a  pro- 
file resenibling  the  human  face)  rises  1328  feet  from 
the  river,  directly  opposite  the  mouth  of  Montgomery 
Creek,  looking  down  upon  forts  Montgomery  and 
Clinton.  Behmd  the  latter  is  Bloody  Pond,  where  the 
bodies  of  those  were  thrown  who  were  killed  in  the 
defence. 

The  Catskill  Mountains  are  in  sight  from  the  top, 
part  of  Connecticut,  the  Green  Mountains,  with  a  view 
flown  the  Hudson,  extending  to  New-Jersey,  and  Har- 
Isenn  Heights,  Long  Island  Sound,  &c.  Even  the  Lu- 
natic Asylum  in  New-York  can  be  discovered. 

As  the  steamboat  proceeds,  several  points  are  ob- 
served  projecting  into  the  river  some  distance  above; 
and  West  roint  makes  its  appearam^e  on  the  left  hand, 
with  the  ruins  of  Fort  Putnam,  elevated  on  a  com- 
manding eminence,  a  little  beyond,  698  feet  above  the 
water's  level.  The  view  it  commands  over  this  wild 
and  mountainous  neighbourhood,  as  well  as  its  con- 
nexion li'ith  our  history,  will  render  it  worthy  of  a 
visit.  There  are  still  thi  ee  or  four  subterraneous  rooms 
to  be  seen,  and  the  place  is  so  often  visited,  that  the 
path  is  plain,  and  leads  to  most  of  the  principal  objects 
within  it.  1  his  fortress  commanded  at  once  the  river 
above  and  below  West  Point,  and  the  passage  into  a 
defile  which  opens  through  the  mountains  westward. 
That  defile  was  farther  defended  by  numerous  little 
batteries  and  redoubts  on  the  peaks  around  it.  The 
summits  near  Fort  Putnam  (then  Independence) 
were  also  occupied,  but  were  not  fit  for  extensive 
works,  although  more  elevated.  During  the  war  a 
fort  stood  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  called  Fort 
Constitution. 

Kosciitsko^s  Monnmefft  is  erected  at  We<it  Point ;  and 


^^^ss,  the  otii- 
J  of  October, 
•at  place ;  for 
?ceived  a  few 
iv-York. 
'h  has  a  pro. 
28  feet  /!;« 

iwonlgomeiy 
^ornery  and 
^»  ?^here  the 
K»'ied  in  the 

on?  the  top, 
with  a  view 
^J,  and  Har- 
^'en  the  Lu- 
ered. 

"'s  are  ob- 
fJce  above  • 
e  left  band' 
on  a  com- 
^  above  the 
>r  this  wild 
as  its  con- 
ortby  of  a 
?ous  rooms 
^f  that  the 
^al  objects 
'  the  river 
g'e  into  a 
^'estward. 
rous  httle 
it.    The 
endence) 
extensive 
e  war  a 
lied  Fort 

int :  and 


HILITARV   ACADEHV.  !^7 

the  spot  IS  still  shown  where  he  cultivated  bis  little' 
garden. 

WEST  POINT. 

This  was  a  militaiy  position  of  peat  consequence 
in  tbe  war.  A  battery  was  erected  on  the  extremity 
of  the  point  just  over  the  river,  to  command  the  chan- 
nel, while  a  strong  iron  chain  was  stretched  across 
from  the  shore  below,  to  the  opposite  side.  On  the 
cast  side  of  the  river  is  Cold  Sprine,  behind  it  is  the 
fVegi  Point  Foundry^  owned  by  Major  Kimberly  of 
New- York.  It  is  the  best  in  the  United  States,  and 
worthy  of  attention. 

The  Military  Academy  of  the  United  States 

is  located  at  West  Point  \  and  a  more  deligfhtful  situa- 
tion for  such  an  institution  could  hardly  have  been  se- 
lected. It  is  designed  for  the  instruction  of  young 
men  destined  for  the  army  ;  and  secondarily  for  main- 
taining the  military  science  of  the  country.  The 
Academy  was  established,  in  1802,  by  Gen.  Williams, 
and  extends  only  to  the  instruction  of  Cadets.  The  num- 
ber of  pupils  is  confined  to  250 ;  and  in  choosing  from 
the  applicants,  the  sons  of  revolutionary  officers  are  al- 
lowea  the  first  claim,  and  those  children  of  officers  of 
the  last  war  whose  fathers  are  dead,  the  next.  There 
are  about  30  professors,  instructers  and  assistants. 
Some  of  the  Cadets  afford  assistance  in  instructing,  for 
which  they  receive  additional  pay.  The  law  prohibits 
admission  under  fourteen  years  of  age. 

The  level  on  which  the  buildings  of  the  institution 
are  erected,  is  188  teet  above  the  river,  though  it  has 
the  appearance  o^  having  once  formed  a  part  of  its 
bed.  The  annual  expense  of  the  institution  to  the 
United  States  is  gl  16,000.  The  sum  paid  for  the  edu- 
cation of  a  Cadet  is  about  J[330  per  annum.  The 
library  consists  of  a  lars^e  and  valuable  collection  of 


^<^-i^ 


28 


AEW-YOKK   TO   ALBAI^V. 


books,  on  the  various  branches  of  military  science, 
which  have  been  obtained  with  great  assiduity  and  no 
small  expense  from  Europe. 

The  buildings  belonging  to  the  institution  are  five ; 
all  large^  and  built  of  stone.  There  are,  besides,  six 
brick  buildings  for  the  officers  and  professors  ;  near  the 
water,  some  old  military  storehouses,  which  contain 
arms,  &c.  used  in  the  revolution.  The  barracks  were 
lately  burnt. 

There  is  a  large  and  conspicuous  hotel  lately  erected 
for  the  accommodation  of  visiters. 

The  course  of  study  is  completed  in  four  years,  each 
being  devoted  to  a  class  ;  and  includes  the  French  lan- 
guage, drawing,  natural  and  experimental  philosophy, 
chemistry  and  mineralogy,  geography,  history,  ethics, 
and  national  law,  mathematics  in  the  highest  branches, 
and  lastly,  artillery  and  engineering. 

Study  concludes  each  day  at  4  P.  M.  and  is  sue* 
ceeded  by  the  parade,  which  lasts  till  sunset. 

One  of  the  particular  spots  worthy  of  attention  is 
Col.  Beverly  Robinson's  mansion  on  the  east  side  of 
the  river,  which  was  made  the  head-quarters  of  the 
several  officers  who  were  at  different  periods  invested 
with  the  command  of  this  important  part  of  the  country. 

In  September,  1780,  while  the  British  held  posses- 
sion of  Hudson  river  up  to  the  borders  of  the  High- 
lands, and  General  Arnold  was  in  command  here,  a 
correspondence  was  carried  on  by  him  with  the  British 
officers,  on  the  subject  of  surrendering  his  post  into 
their  hands.  To  bring  their  designs  to  a  conclusion,  it 
was  determined  that  a  meeting  should  be  held. 

Andre  was  sent  under  cover  oi  the  night  from  the  sloop 
of  war  Vulture,  which  was  then  lying  in  Haverstraw 
Bay,  to  a  place  which  had  been  appointed  for  the  con- 
ference. A  man  by  the  name  of  Smith  had  i)een  sent 
on  board  by  Arnold,  under  the  pretence  of  negotiating 
about  an  honourable  treaty  with  Great  Britain,  and  he 
accompanied  Andre  to  the  foot  of  a  mountain  called 
the  Long  Clove,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river.     Here 


tlie) 
tre( 


S 


asl 

an( 


l.i-< 


txEOUTioN  or  ANDRH;. 


29 


litary  science, 
■siduityandno 

ition  are  five ; 
e,  besides,  six 
sors  •  near  the 
^hicb  contain 
barracks  were 

lately  erected 

Jr  years,  each 
le  French  lan- 
il  philosophy, 
istory,  ethics, 
est  branches, 

and  is  suc- 
iset. 

attention  is 
e'ist  side  of 
rters  of  the 
ods  invested 
the  country, 
held  posses- 
>f  the  High- 
land here,  a 
1  the  British 
is  post  into 
onclusion,  it 
leld. 

)m  the  sloop 
^averstraw 
for  the  con- 
d  been  sent 
negotiating 
a  in,  and  he 
tain  called 
^er.     Here 


.% 


Ifjey  lound  Gen.  Arnold  in  a  dark  grove  of  evergreen 
trees,  according  to  appointment. 

Daylight  p  jt  it  out  of  the  power  of  Major  Andre  to 
pass  in  safety  the  posts  at  Verplanck's  ami  Stony  Points. 
He  was  therefore  obliged  to  retire  to  Smith  s  house, 
and  change  his  dress  for  a  disguise. 

General  Arnold  had  furnished  him  with  a  pass  under 
the  name  of  John  Anderson;  and  on  the  following 
evening  he  set  out  by  land,  accompanied  by  Smith  as 
a  guioe.    They  rode  that  night  to  McKoy's,  after 

foing  eight  or  nine  miles :  and  the  next  he  spent  at 
*ine^s  Bridge,  over  Croton  River.  Here  he  parted 
with  Smith,  and  proceeded  alone  six  miles,  when  as 
he  had  passed  the  American  lines,  and  was  approach- 
ing those  of  the  British,  he  was  discovered  by  three 
men,  who  were  concealed  from  him  behind  a  tank ; 
and  one  of  them,  suddenly  stepping  from  under  a  tree 
by  the  road  side,  seized  his  horse  by  ^e  bridle. 
They  found  in  his  boots  a  description  of  tffi  works  at 
West  Point,  with  returns  of  all  the  forces  of  the  garri* 
son,  in  the  handwriting  of  Arnold. 

This  happened  on  the  23d  of  September.  A  Mes- 
senger was  immediate^  sent  to  Gen.  Washington ;  and 
at  Andre's  request,  Lieut.  Col.  Jamieson  sent  t<>  Amolfi 
to  inform  him  that  Anderson  was  taken,  '^bc  latter 
messenger  arrived  first ;  and  Arnold  as  soon  as  be  learned 
the  truth,  rushed  down  a  very  steep  bank,  sprati^  into 
his  boat,  and  ordered  the  rowers  to  take  him  on  Eoard 
tlie  Vulture. 

On  the  29th  of  September  a  board  of  officers  was 
appointed  for  the  trial  of  Major  Andre,  and  sentenced 
him  to  suffer  death  as  a  spy.  Objections  were  made 
to  this  sentence,  on  the  ground  that  Andre  had  been 
introduced  into  the  American  camp  under  the  passport 
of  one  of  our  officers;  but  the  delivery  ot  Arnoki 
being  made  the  condition  of  his  release,  and  that  being 
refused  by  the  British,  he  was  kept  in  prison  until  the 
2d  day  of  October,  when  he  was  hung  at  the  town  of 
Tapnan,  wh^re  his  body  was  afterward  interred. 


f 


30 


>;E\V-iO»K    TO   ALBAM. 


A  few  years  since  the  British  g^overnment  sent  ta 
this  country  to  obtain  his  remains,  which  were  removed 
to  England,  and  placed  in  the  family  vault  of  the 
then  Prince  Recent.  A  cypress  tree  which  grew  ovet 
his  grave  was  likewise  removed  to  the  garden  of  the 
present  king.  The  roots  of  this  tree  were  found  to 
nave  twined  themselves  about  the  skull.  In  1827,  the 
corporation  of  New-York  erected  a  monument  over 
the  grave  of  PauldinsTy  one  of  his  captors. 

At  leaving  West  Point,  the  traveller  will  observe 
several  remarkably  high  mountains  on  both  sides  of 
the  river,  for  which  he  is  referred  to  the  map.  The 
distant  summit  of  Catskill  mountains  is  distinguishable. 
Putnam's  Rock  was  rolled  from  the  top  of  Butter 
Hill,  June,  1778,  by  a  party  of  soldiers  directed  by 
Gen.  i^tnam.    On  the  east  side  is  Antony's  Nose, 

JVewhurgh, — This  is  a  town  of  considerable  size^ 
six  miles  bgyond  the  Highlands,  with  some  handsome 
buildingSrWrlere  begins  the  Stage  Road  leading  from 
the  river  to  fthaca,  at  the  head  of  Cayuga  Lake,  and 
communicating,  by  a  steamboat,  with  the  great  western 
turnpike  at  Cayuga  Bridge. 

Newburgh  is  advantageously  situated  for  the  eye 
of  one  approaching  it,  as  it  stands  on  the  declivity  ot  a 
hill  which  slopes  handsomely  to  the  shore.  Half  a 
mile  south  of  the  village  is  seen  the  old  stone  house  in 
which  Gen.  Washington  had  his  head-quarters  when 
the  celebrated  "  Newbui^h  fietters"  came  out. 

A  coach  runs  daily  to  Goshen,  near  which  are  the 
Chemung  Springs. 

Fishkul  Mountain, — The  summits  called  North  and 
South  Beacons,  which  rise  opposite  Newburgh,  at  a 
distance  of  four  miles,  command  a  fine  view  over  the 
surrounding  country  and  the  river,  which  appears^ 
interrupted  bjr  the  Highlands,  like  a  number  of  lakes. 
For .  Putnam  is  in  sight,  and  it  is  said  that  land  may 
be  seen  in  seven  different  states.  Many  villages,  as 
well  as  the  river,  are  included  in  the  view. 

Mnttmwan  Factory,  FishkilL — It  stands  near  the  river 


[■i'i 


rnment  sent  U» 
1  were  removed 
|7  vault  of  the 
hich  grew  ovei^ 
I  garden  of  the 
were  found  to 
1.  In  1827,  the 
lonument  over 
irs. 

r  will  observe 
both  sides  of 
hie  map.  The 
iistinguishable. 
top  of  Butter 
s  directed  by 
xmy*s  JVose, 
nderabie  size^ 
)me  handsome 
i  leading  from 
uga  Lake,  and 
great  western 

i  for  the  eye 
I  declivity  ot  a 
hore.  Half  a 
stone  house  in 
(uarters  when 
Tie  out. 
/hich  are  the 


% 


ed  North  and 
jwburgh,  at  a 
i^iew  over  the 
lich  appears,^ 
iber  of  lakes, 
hat  land  may 
ly  villages,  as 
w. 
near  the  river 


i 


anc 
in 
plo 
&c. 
on 
stri 
Jiho 
/ 

3.S 

sinj2 
roc 
stre 
hou 

F 
ele^ 
whi 
con 
reel 
Yoi 

A 
wasj 
wor 
exte 
frori 
the 
vani 
pari 
ihre 
Del 

I 
abh 
oft 
of  r 
bent 
pass 
neal 
rive 
oon^ 

'I 


.»•«•*€•»• 


DELAWARE   A^D   litD60i\    CAjSAL. 


3i 


<>    Johns  touni 


and  directly  opposite  Newburgh.  It  was  commenced 
in  1814,  belongs  to  Messrs.  Schenk,  and  gives  em- 
ployment to  about  300  persons,  with  50  power  looms, 
&c.  1,000  or  1,500  yards  of  cotton  are  manufactured 
on  an  average  from  the  v/ool  every  day,  principally 
stripes  and  gmffhams.  There  is  an  extensive  nnachine 
iihop  connected  with  it. 

Poughkeepsie  is  worthy  of  a  particular  desciiption, 
as  it  is  a  place  of  considerable  importance,  and  has  a 
singular  situation.  There  are  three  or  four  rough  and 
rocky  projections  on  the  shore,  which  break  up  the 
streets  of  the  village,  and  are  partly  occupied  with 
houses  and  gardens.     '^'!K  ;  effect  is  peculiar. 

For  several  miles  bej  t>  d,  the  shores  are  of  a  regular 
elevation,  K\i\.  are  cut  through  by  several  streams, 
which  afford  a  little  variety,  as  wharves  are  usually 
constructed  at  their  mouths,  where  a  sloop  W  two 
receive  their  cargoes  of  limber  or  produce  for  New- 
Y«r;k. 

Kingston. — The  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal,  v;hich 
was  commenced  in  July  1825,  and  completed,  with  the 
works  in  connexion  with  it,  near  the  close  of  1829, 
extends  frcm  a  point  on  the  Rondout,  about  four  miles 
from  the  junction  of  the  Waalkill  with  the  Hudson,  to 
the  coal  mines  on  the  Lackawana  creek,  in  Pennsyl- 
vania. The  whole  route  is  now  completer.  The  chief 
part  of  it,  65  miles,  pas.i^es  through  a  valley,  two  or 
three  miles  wide,  in  a  south-westerly  direction,  to  the 
Delaware. 

The  country  at  the  opening  of  the  canal  is  remark- 
ably irregular  and  wild.  On  rising  from  the  level 
of  the  river  by  locks  into  the  basin,  a  wild  assemblage 
of  rocks,  steep  hills,  and  forest  trees  is  suddenly  pre- 
sented to  the  view,  with  a  few  buildings;  and  after 
passing  through  a  deep  cut,  where  the  work  is  veiy 
neat,  and  under  a  high  bridge,  the  boat  enters  the 
river,  whose  smooth  and  grassy  shore  offers  a  veiy 
convenient  towing  path. 

The  canal  is  36  feet  in  breadth  at  the  surface,  and 


je 


N£W-\OKK    iV   AUSAisi. 


four  feet  deep.  The  locks  ar  -  nine  feet  wide,  7ii  leel 
in  length  between  the  gates,  from  eight  to  eleven  feet 
lift,  and  built  of  stone. 

The  country  has  one  peculiar  feature  on  the  route 
from  the  Hudson  to  the  Delaware :  it  seems  as  if  it 
might  have  afforded  a  channel  to  the  Delaware,  before 
its  waters  forced  for  themselves  a  new  passage  through 
the  Blue  Ridge.  The  elevation  of  this  land  is  80  feel 
above  the  piesent  level  of  that  river. 

High  Falls. — At  the  High  Falls  on  the  Rondout 
River,  the  canal  passes  over  a  hewn  stone  ac^ueduct 
of  two  arches,  just  above  which  the  cascade  is  seen, 
50  feet  high.  The  falls  and  the  aqueduct  both  present 
a  fine  ana  striking  appearance  ;  the  effect  of  which  is 
still  further  increased  by  the  passage  of  the  Five  Locks^ 
by  ^^[^h  the  ascent  is  surmounted. 

TlwSummit  Level  is  about  midwajr  between  the 
Hudson  and  Delaware,  at  a  place  formerly  called 
Rome,  and  now  Wurtzborough. 

The  JSfeversink  River  is  crossed  on  an  aqueduct,  and 
the  canal  then  pursues  the  course  of  that  river. 

Carpenter's  Pcintf  on  the  Delaware,  is  the  place 
where  the  canal  meets  that  river,  on  the  line  of  New- 
Jfersey ;  and  it  then  proceeds  north-westerly,  along  its 
course. 

The  excavations  of  rocks  along  the  bank  of  the 
Delaware,  required  for  the  passage  of  the  canal,  are 
in  many  places  on  a  vast  scale ;  and  the  variety  of 
natural  scenery  and  artificial  constructions  presented 
to  the  traveller  is  highly  agreeable  and  picturesque. 
A  wall  of  stone  rising  from  the  river's  bank,  varying 
in  height  from  10  to  20  and  30  feet,  supports  the  canal 
and  tow  path,  in  many  places  where  tne  rocks  have 
been  blasted  out  with  great  expense  to  afford  it  a 
passage. 

Butler'' s  Falls* — At  this  place  the  mountains  rise  to 
the  height  of  several  hundred  feet,  and  a  rock,  which 
appeared  to  present  a  natural  insurmountable  obstacle.. 
\a&  been  cut  away  with  immense  labour  just  over  the 


t  wide,  m  ieet 
to  eieven  feet 

e  on  the  route 
seems  as  if  it 
la  ware,  before 
issas;e  through 
land  is  80  feet 

the  Rondout 
tone  aqueduct 
iscade  is  seen, 
t  both  present 
ct  of  which  is 
he  Five  Locksy 

between  the 
Toierly  called 

aqueduct,  and 
t  river. 

,  is  the  place 

line  of  New- 

terly,  along  its 

bank  of  the 
the  canal,  arc 
the  variety  of 
ons  presented 
i  picturesque, 
bank,  varying 
•orts  the  canal 
le  rocks  have 

0  afford  it  a 

jntains  rise  to 

1  rock,  which 
able  obstacle., 
just  over  fhp 


•  AToKlLb  MOtiiTAl.Na. 


Si 


M 


lumuituous  stream, so  that  boats  pass  along  the  smooth 
>^urface  of  the  canal  without  difficulty  or  exposure, 
within  a  short  distance  of  an  impetuous  current. 

The  Dam  and  Aqueduct  over  the  Delaware. — The 
canal  crosses  the  Delaware  opposite  the  mouth  of  the 
Lackawaxen  River,  on  a  dam  four  feet  in  height; 
after  which  it  enters  the  valley  of  that  stream. 

The  Lackawaxen  River. — Along  the  bank  of  this 
river  the  canal  passes  for  a  distance  of  about  20  miles^ 
supported  for  a  great  part  of  the  way  on  a  wall  of 
stone.  The  wildness  of  the  country  on  either  side 
will  offer  continually  striking  objects  to  the  traveller. 

Honesdale, — This  village  stands  at  the  Forks  of  the 
Dyberry,  at  the  spot  where  the  railway  meets  the 
canal  at  its  termination.  Only  a  few  buildings  have 
as  yet  been  erected  at  this  place. 

The  Railway f  by  which  the  coal  is  brought  from  the 
mines,  is  provided  with  steam  engines  to  move  the 
carts.     (We  return  to  Hudson  river.) 

Sau^eriies. — Here  is  a  large  manufacturing  place 
established  by  Henry  Barclay,  Esq.  of  New-York, 
By  a  large  stone  dam  on  Esopus  creek  he  obtains  a 
supply  of  water  at  a  fail  of  nearly  50  (eet,  which 
may  be  twice  used  on  great  wheels.  The  canal  or 
sluice  conducts  it  about  two  hundred  yards  throu£^h 
rocks  65  feet  high.  Here  is  a  mill  for  paper  on  the 
latest  English  mode,  making  it  in  a  continued  sheet. 
The  iron  rolling  and  puddling  mill  is  169  feet  long, 
rolls  200  tons  a  week,  and  can  do  double  that  work. 
There  is  an  hotel  in  an  elevated  situation ;  and  the 
traveller  will  find  great  attractions  there  in  the  near 
and  distant  scenery. 

THE  CATSKILL  MOUNTAINS. 

As  the  traveller  proceeds  he  observes  the  distant 
'  id^e  of  the  Catskill  mountains  more  distinctly,  which 
limit  the  view  north  and  westerly  for  many  miles,  and 
%m  a  grand  feature  in  the  scene.     They  nowher*^ 

D 


M 


^EW-VOliK  iO  ALBA.N5k 


approach  nearer  to  the  river  than  8  miles,  and  in  sonic 
places  retire  15  and  even  20, 

An  excursion  to  the  summit  of  these  mountains  is 
performed  by  great  numbers  of  travellers ;  and  in- 
deed has  become  so  favourite  an  enterprise,  that  it 
may  very  properly  be  ranged  among  the  principal 
objects  in  the  great  tour  which  we  are  just  commenc- 
ing. The  visit  may  be  accomplished  in  one  day, 
though  two  or  three  may  be  agreeably  spent  in  ex- 
amining, at  leisure,  the  grand  and  beautiful  scenery  of 
that  romantic  neighbourhood.  There  is  a  large  and 
commodious  house  of  entertainment  erected  at  the 
Pine  Orchard,  one  of  the  peaks  of  the  mountain, 
about  3000  feet  above  the  river.  It  is  visible  from  the 
steamboat ;  and  the  ascent  to  it  is  performed  without 
fatigue,  in  private  carriages  or  a  stage  coach,  which 
goes  and  returns  regularly  twice  a  day.  (There  is  a 
spring  of  carburetted  hydrogen  in  Catskill  creek.) 

The  place  to  land  lor  this  excursion  is  Catskill, 
where  begins  a  turnpike  road  to  Ithaca.'^  Taking  the 
stage  coach  here,  for  $1  you  proceed  towards  the 
Pine  Orchard,  passing  a  good  inn  at  the  distance  of  7 
miles,  (640  feet  above  the  river)  and  then  beginning 
the  ascent,  which  is  surmountea  by  a  winding  road 
that  affords  much  wild  scenery  and  many  a  glimpse 
at  the  surrounding  country.!  Five  miles  of  such  tra- 
velling brings  the  visiter  to 

»The  contcmpl.ited  railroad  fiom  Itliai;a  to  Calskill,  N.  V.  is  pro 
poBed  to  be  commenced  and  coniinuud  tlnuugh  a  comer  of  i^citoharif 
county,  to  the  head  waters  of  tlie  Delaware  ;  thiMjce  to  the  Susqueiiau- 
fiah  ;  thence  eitlicr  direct  to  Ithaca  or  down  the  Siisqiiehannah  neaiiy 
lo  the  Pennsylvania  line;  and  thence  to  intersect  tlie  Khacii  ajul  Oweyo 
railway,  at  the  latter  place.  The  distance  is  JUO  nnles,  and  the  highest 
ei^timuted  expense  $1,500,U()0. 

tThe  fore&tsof  this  nionntainous  region  furni^ii  immense  quantiti<..s 
of  the  bark  used  in  tanning  leather ;  and  not  less  than  '23  tanneries  aru 
in  operation  in  this  county,  which  supply  about  four-tifthsof  the  leather 
d^nnually  inspected  in  the  city  of  New- York.  (Edwards'  lar^e  tannery 
is  in  the  town  of  Hunter.)  Vv^ater  power  is  advantageously  introduced 
to  aid  in  some  parts  of  the  process;  and  the  custom  has  been  adopted  ol 
soaking  the  bark  in  heated  water.  More  than  155,000  hides  na  ere  tanned 
.hi  Grci;ne  Cuiiniy  in  W'lil  valued  at  Jiioif  than  .$400;000- 


('ATSKIIiL   3I0UM'A1NS. 


:i^ 


IS)  and  in  some 

;  mountains  is 
lers ;  and  in- 
irprise,  that  it 

the  principal 
just  commenc- 
d  in  one  day, 
J  spent  in  ex- 
iful  scenery  of 
is  a  large  and 
erected  at  the 
the  mountain, 
isible  from  the 
>rmed  without 

coach,  which 
(There  is  a 
kill  creek.) 
m  is  Catskili, 
*  Taking  the 
d  towards  the 
;  distance  of  7 
hen  beginning 

winding  road 
my  a  glimpse 

s  of  such  tra- 


kil],  >»'.  Y.  is  pnv 
rner  of  !?ciiuiiarif 
to  the  Sus«iueliuii- 
iielianiiah  neaily 
ilhura  luid  Ovvoyo 
s,  and  tho  Inylitst 

nncnse  quuntiti<..s 
1  23  tanneries  am 
it'thvsoftlielcutliei- 
rds'  large  tannery 
eoiisly  introduce*} 
IS  been  adopted  o( 
hides  were  funned 
no. 


The  Pine  Orchard,  This  is  a  small  plain,  2214  feet 
nbove  the  river,  scattered  with  forest  trees,  and  fur- 
nished with  an  elegant  house  of  great  size,  built  for 
the  accommodation  of  visiters,  and  excellently  kept 
by  Mr.  Webb.  The  Hudson  is  seen  winding  from 
afar  through  its  verdant  valley,  its  margin  adorned 
with  villages,  and  its  surface  enlivened  with  vessels  of 
various  descriptions.  Immediately  below  is  seen  a 
region  of  uncultivated  mountains,  which  is  strikingly 
contrasted  with  the  charming  aspect  of  fertility  that 
reigns  beyond,  and  presents  all  the  variety  of  hill  and 
vale,  town,  hamlet,  and  cottage. 

The  Pine  Orchard  is  the  resort  of  so  much  company 
during  the  pleasant  seasons  of  the  year,  that  the  at* 
tractions  of  its  scenery  are  redoubled  by  th<i  presence 
of  agreeable  and  refined  society.  Individuals  of  taste 
and  leisure,  and  still  more  parties  of  travellers,  will 
thus  often  enjoy  a  gratification  which  is  rarely  to  be 
Ibund  in  a  place  naturally  so  wild  and  difficult  of 
access.    ■ 

The  Round  Top  is  a  summit  of  greater  elevation 
towards  the  south,  from  which  the  view  is  more  ex- 
tensive.   It  is  3,718  feet  above  the  ocean. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  river  is  seen  part  of  the 
counties  of  Albany,  Greene,  Ulster,  and  Orange  ;  and 
the  east,  part   of   Putnam   county,  and   all   of 


on 


Dutchess,  Columbia,  and  Rensselaer.  The  distant 
high  land  in  the  east  belongs  partly  to  Taughkannuc 
and  Saddle  Mountains,  in  Massachusetts,  and  perhaps 
partly  to  the  Green  Mountains  in  Vermont.  Lower 
down  is  discovered  a  range  of  hills  in  the  western 
counties  of  Connecticut.  The  eve  embraces  a  tract 
of  country  about  100  miles  in  lengtn,  and  50  in  breadth ; 
and  a  large  part  of  it  is  supposed,  by  geologists,  to 
have  formed  the  bed  of  a  great  lake  in  some  long  past 
age,  when  the  Hudson  was  thrown  back  by  the  bar* 
lier  presented  at  the  Highlands,  before  the  present 
rhasm  had  been  cut  for  its  passage. 
Warly  opposite  is  seen  the  old  Livinsrston  Manor, 


KEW-YOUK  TO  ALllANV. 


which  is  one  of  the  few  great  aristocralical  estates  ex- 
isting in  this  part  of  the  country.  It  originally  con- 
tained Clermont  (14,000  acres),  the  Manor  (146,000), 
and  East  Camp  or  Palatine  (6000).  This  last  was 
settled  by  exiles  from  the  Palatinate  in  the  reign  of 
Queen  Anne. 

The  Cascades.  There  is  a  singular  and  highly  ro- 
mantic scene  which  has  been  intentionally  reserved  for 
the  last.  A  path  leads  through  the  woods  to  the  cas- 
cades, passing  near  two  small  lakes^  from  which  the 
supply  of  water  is  derived.  Carriages  may  generally 
be  procured  to  take  visiters  to  the  spot. 

The  stream  flows  through  the  woods  to  where  the 
level  terminates,  very  abruptly,  at  a  high  and  shelving- 
precipice,  descending  into  a  tremendous  gorge  between 
ridges  of  gloomy  mountains.  The  first  fall  is  176  feet, 
and  the  second  80:  both  perpendicular,  without  a 
single  protruding  rock  to  break  the  snow-white  sheet. 

A  building  is  erected,  where  refreshments  may  be 
obtained ;  and  on  the  right  is  a  steep  path  by  which 
even  ladies  may  descend  in  safety  to  the  foot  of  the 
falls. 

There  is  a  cavern  under  the  first  cataract,  where  the 
shelving  rock  shelters  the  stranger  from  the  spray,  and 
throws  a  dark  shade  around  him,  which  sets  off,  in  the 
most  beautiful  manner,  the  wild  scenery  below.  The 
cavern  is  formed  by  the  wearing  away  of  the  sand- 
stone rocks,  while  the  stratum  of  graywacke  remains 
unimpaired. 

At  a  little  distance  the  stream  takes  its  second  leap 
into  a  dark  abyss  ;  and  from  a  rock  at  that  place,  it  is 
seen  rushing  tumultuously  along  over  a  steep  and 
rocky  channel,  winding  between  the  bases  of  the 
mountains  until  it  gradually  sweeps  away  towards  the 
south,  and  disappears  among  the  rude  scenery  that 
surrounds  it. 

After  gratifying  his  curiosity  and  taste  with  scenes 
like  these,  the  traveller  will  return  to  Catskill  to  take 
thn  nevt  steamboat :    and  bv  making  the   neressars' 


f 


^n 


C'liV  OF  HUDSON. 


;5T 


:al  estates  cx- 
riginally  con- 
)or  (146,000), 
rhis  last  was 
the  reig;n  of 

nd  highly  ro- 
y^  reserved  for 
>ds  to  the  cas- 
m  which  the 
nay  generally 

to  where  the 
1  and  shelving' 
:orge  between 
'all  is  176  feet, 
ar,  without  a 
v-white  sheet, 
ments  may  be 
ath  by  which 
he  foot  of  the 

act,  where  the 
the  sprajr,  and 
sets  off,  in  the 
below.  The 
r  of  the  sand- 
^acke  remains 

ts  second  leap 
tat  place,  it  is 
a  steep  and 
bases  of  the 
y  towards  the 
J  scenery  that 

ie  with  scenes 
)atskill  to  take 
the   neressars' 


1 


r\nangernents,  he  can  proceed  up  the  river  with  very 
little  delay. 

THE  CITY  OF  HUDSON,  5^  miles. 

This  is  one  of  <he  largest  and  most  important  towns 
on  the  river,  and  occupies  a  commanding  eminence  on 
the  eastern  bank,  with  several  ranges  of  large  stores 
huilt  near  the  water's  level.  On  the  brow  of  the  ascent 
from  the  water  is  a  favourite  promenade,  from  which  a 
chirming  view  is  enjoyed  ot  the  river  and  the  opj)o- 
.<;ite  Catskill  mountams.  The  western  shore  is  varie- 
gated and  beautiful,  and  contains  the  village  of  Athens. 

It  may  be  ncommended  to  the  traveller  who  wishes 
to  visit  New-Lebanon  Springs,  to  land  here  and  take 
the  stage  coaches.  In  1827  this  route  began  to  grow 
very  common  ;  and  it  was  estimated  that  1200  travel- 
lers passed  through  Hudson  every  week  of  the  travel- 
ling season. 

Daily  lines  of  stage  coaches  are  now  established 
between  Hudson  and  New-Lebanon ;  and  travellers 
leaving  New-York  in  an  evening  boat,  sometimes 
reach  the  latter  place  the  next  day  before  dinner.  From 
Hudson  to  New-Lebanon  is  28  miles. 

The  Union  road  to  New-Lebanon  is  a  good  one, 
and  passes  through  a  varied,  well  cultivated,  and 
agreeable  tract  of  country.  Stage  coaches  go  from 
Bryan  &  Smith's  i:jn  ;  and  parties  can  at  any  time  be 
furnished  with  comfortable  carriages.  Stage  coaches 
12:0  daily  to  Lenox,  Stockbridge,  Fittsfield,  &c.  At 
Egremont,  theT  exchange  passengers  with  the  coac^hes 
for  Shetfield,  H,;  rtford,  and  New-Haven. 

At  Hudson  carriages  may  be  engaged  for  Catskill 
mountains. 

The  Columbia  Spring  i^  a  place  of  some  resort,  and 
the  water  is  considered  effectual  in  cases  of  scrofula. 

There  are  extensive  manufactories  of  cotton,  ca- 
lico, &c.  &c.  in  this  vicinity. 

D2 


38 


:\£\V-VOJlK  TO  ALU....i 


Claverack  is  a  pleasant  villap^c  a  lew  miks  iwm 
Hudson. 

Th«  Great  Falls  is  a  romantic  cascade,  about  9  miles 
from  Hudson,  near  the  old  [mst  route.  A  stream  is 
precipitated  down  a  precipice  of  dark  rocks,  into  a 
deep  chasm,  shaded  with  forest  trees,  and  presenting 
a  most  picture>que  and  striking  scene.  The  place  is 
lately  visited  every  season  by  numbers  of  travellers ; 
and  it  is  to  be  regretted  that  there  is  no  house  of  enter- 
tainment in  the  vicinity. 

There  is  a  large  manufactory  about  250  yards  from 
the  cascade,  owned  by  Mr.  rhilips.  A  path  leads 
thence,  along  the  high  and  steep  bank  of  the  stream, 
to  the  foot.  The  ascent  to  the  top  of  the  falls  is  also 
accessible,  and  affords  another  fine  view.  The  whole 
descent  of  the  water  is  said  to  be  about  150  feet,  and 
it  is  interrupted  only  by  a  narrow  rock  projecting  20 
feet  from  the  precipice  about  half  way  down.  The 
basin  which  receives  the  stream  is  large,  deep,  and 
gloomy  :  being  so  surrounded  bj^  high  hills  that  the  sun 
falls  into  it  only  during  a  short  time  about  noon.  The 
finest  view  is  perhaps  from  the  side  of  the  basin  oppo- 
site the  faJls.  Above  the  cascade  the  bed  of  the 
stream  is  strewn  with  rude  blocks  of  slate,  20  or  30 
feet  across,  which  are  channelled  by  the  water,  and 
in  some  places  piled  together  so  as  to  form  little 
cayerns. 

[For  New-Lebanon  Spriil^s,  see  page  42.] 

Kinderhook.  Surveys  have  been  made  at  tne  ex- 
pense of  the  Legislature  of  Massachusetts  of  a  route 
for  a  railway  from  Boston  to  Springfield,  and  by  Casr 
tieton,  near  this  place,  to  the  Hudson.  The  route 
crosses  the  Kinderhook,  and  passes  an  extensive  plain. 
It  comes  through  Stockbridge,  Mass.  The  survey 
has  been  extended  along  the  Hudson  to  Greenbush,  to 
communicate  with  the  canals.  The  state  of  New- 
York  has  co-operated  ;  but  a  bill  authorizing  the  work 
was  rejected  in  the  Massachusetts  legislature?  in  1830, 
by  a  large  majority. 


w; 


ClTy  or  ALDAxW. 


3'J 


w  miles  Horn 

,  about  9  miles 
A  stream  is 
rocks,  into  a 
nd  presentiiijs^ 
The  place  is 
of  travellers ; 
ouse  of  enter- 

50  yards  from 
A  path  leads 
f  the  stream, 
le  falls  is  also 

The  whole 
150  feet,  and 
projecting  20 
down.  The 
t;e,  deep,  and 
is  that  the  sun 
t  noon.  The 
e  basin  oppo- 

bed  of  the 
ate,  20  or  30 
B  water,  and 

form  little 

ffe  42.1 

le  at  the  ex- 

ts  of  a  route 

and  by  Casr 

The  route 

tensive  plain. 

I'he  survey 
ifreenbush,  to 
ate  of  New- 
ing  the  work 
ture.  in  1830, 


Various  plans  have  been  proposed,  for  the  improve- 
menl  of  the  navigation  of  this  river,  and  some  have 
been  attempted.  Nearly  $150,000  have  been  ex- 
pended since  the  year  1797,  abt)Ut  $30,000  of  which 
was  by  the  state. 

The  Overslaugh,  4  miles  from  Albany,  is  a  place 
where  the  channel  is  narrow  and  crookea ;  and  much 
labour  has  been  resorted  to  in  deepening  it. 


ALBANY,  145  miles  from  New-York. 


the  Steamboat  wharf.     The  best  houses  in  Albany  are 


large  and  well  kept,  and  the  stranger  vyill  find  excel- 
lent accommodations,  provided  tne  city  is  not  too 
much  filled  by  the  session  of  the  Legislature,  or  some 
other  extraordinary  occurrence.  Ine  charges,  how- 
ever, are  very  high  in  this  city,  and  form  a  mighty 
contrast  with  the  moderate  demands  for  foo(i,  lodging, 
^c.  in  the  inns  along  the  course  of  the  canal,  and  in 
the  canal  boats  themselves. 

Routes  Jrorn  Albany.  Stage  coaches  run  daily 
towards  ail  the  four  cardinal  points ;  and  six  or  eight 
frequently  set  off  in  the  same  direction.  Indeed,  the 
number  is  often  much  greater  than  this  when  the  full 
crowd  of  travellers  is  pressing  towards  the  Springs. 
Stage  coaches  go  daily  for  Montreal,  on  both  sides  of 
l<ake  Champlain — fare  $14.  By  steady  travelling, 
you  may  go  to  Buffalo  in  three  days,  296  miles.  Two 
or  three  steamboats  go  daily  to  New-York  ;  small 
packet  f)oats  go  on  the  canal  to  the  junction,  8J  miles  ; 
and  a  large  and  convenient  one  used  to  go  every  day 
to  Schenectady,  28|  miles,  but  it  is  uncertain  whether 
it  will  be  continued.  The  circuit  and  delays  occa- 
sioned by  the  locks,  make  the  passage  consume  a 
%vhole  day.     The  freight  boats  of  the  Transportalifin 


\o 


<:IT\   OF  ALKA.W  . 


Companies  are  very  numerous,  and  have  been  lilted 
up  very  comfortably  for  passengers,  and  convey  them 
at  a  less  price  than  the  reg^ular  packets.  (Steamboats 
go  frequently  to  Troy — 12i  cents.) 

For  the  Route  to  JyiagarOf  see  beyond.  For  other 
routes,  &c.  see  index ;  also  "  Remarks^^  at  Ballston 
Springs. 

Tlie  Capitol,  or  State  llousey  occupies  a  commvind- 
ing  position,  and  contains  the  Assf^mbly  and  Senate 
Chambers,  the  Supreme  Court,  the  County  Court,  &c. 
&c.  It  is  115  feet  in  length,  90  in  breadth,  and  50 
high.  In  the  Senate  Chamner  is  a  portrait  of  Colum- 
bus, copied  from  an  original  in  1592.  On  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  river  is  Greenbush,  famous  for  more 
than  a  century  as  a  cantonment ;  and  the  now  deserted 
lines  of  barracks  are  clearly  seen  from  ihe  State 
House.  This  is  the  tirst  point  worthy  of  notice,  con- 
nected with  the  colonial  wars  against  Canada.  At 
Greenbush,  the  troops  supplied  in  quotas  by  the  east- 
ern colonies,  used  to  meet  those  of  New-York  ;  and 
hence  they  proceeded,  under  conunanders  app(>inted 
by  the  British  government,  against  their  enemies  in 
the  north. 

The  Academy,  just  north  of  the  Capitol,  is  a  large 
insiituticr  for  the  higher  branches  of  eaucation. 

The  City  Hall  will  be  erected  in  Eagle-street,  near 
Maiden-Lane,  and  will  be  a  fine  building. 

Albany  received  a  great  impulse  during  the  late 
war  with  England,  on  account  of  its  local  position : 
but  peace  brought  with  it  a  Hital  stagnation  of  busi- 
ness, the  effects  of  which  were  apparent  in  some  parts 
of  the  city,  but  the  more  natural  and  wholesome 
prosperity  which  already  begins  to  t^ow  in  through  the 
canal,  has  done  much  to  obliterate  them,  and  greatly 
to  increase  the  lower  part  of  the  cit)',  particularly  near 
the  river.     Population  in  1825,  16,954. 

Mineral  Springs.  A  spring,  obtained  by  boring  in 
the  lower  part  of  the  city,  enjoyed  some  celebrity  for 
a  time,  which  it  has  in  some  measure  lost.     In  18?r? 


a  command- 
r  and  Senate 
y  Court,  &c. 
adth,  and  50 
lit  of  Colum- 
)n  the  oppo- 
3US  for  n)ore 
low  deserted 
n   the   Slate 

notice,  con- 
Canada.  At 
by  the  east- 
-York  ;  and 
s  appciinted 

enemies  in 

)I,  is  a  large 
ation. 
street,  near 

ng:  the  late 
al  position : 
ion  of  busi- 
some  parts 
wholesome 
through  the 
and  greatly 
:ulany  near 

y  boring  in 
elebrity  for 
t.     Inl8?8 


CITY  or  ALBANY.  '\  1 

another'sprinp;  was  opened  in  Mr.  McCullock's  garden 
by  boring  617  feet. 

The  boring  of  the  first  spring  showed  slate  rock  to 
the  depth  of  500  feet.  Half  a  pint  of  this  water  con- 
tains 14  cubic  inches  of  carbonic  acid,  and  40.5  grains 
of  saline  matter,  as  follows : 

Muriate  of  soda, 31.5 

Carbonate  of  soda, 2.5 

Carbonate  of  lime, 2.0 

Carbonate  of  magnesia, 3.0 

Carbonate  of  iron, 1.5 

40.5 
Upon  comparing  the  above  results  with  the  analysis 
of  various  sprmgs  at  Saratoga,  it  appears,  that  the 
water  under  examination  does  not  essentially  differ 
from  them.  The  quantity  of  salts  in  the  latter  is 
nearly  as  great  as  that  in  the  Congress  waters,  which 
are  preferred  by  many  persons  to  all  the  springs  at 
Saratoga  or  Ballston.  According  to  Dr.  Steel,  the 
amount  of  saline  matter  in  a  gallon  of  that  water  is 
676  grains,  and  of  carbonic  acid  343  cubic  inches ; 
and  if  the  above  analysis  be  correct,  the  present  water 
contains,  in  the  same  quantity,  648  grains  of  these 
salts,  and  upwards  of  235  inches  of  carbonic  acid. 

The  Farmers*  and  Mechanics*  Bank,  and  the  Albany 
Bank,  bo-th  at  the  foot  of  State-street,  are  handsome, 
buildings  of  white  marble ;  and  the  latter  is  lighted 
by  a  glass  dome.  State-street  deserves  to  be  men- 
tioned, on  account  of  its  remarkable  breadth  and  fine 
appearance.  There  are  sixteen  churches  in  Albany, 
six  of  which  are  built  of  stone,  seven  of  brick,  and 
the  rest  of  wood.  The  Museum  is  in  South  Market- 
street. 

A  Rail  road  is  to  be  constructed  to  Schenectady,  and 
probably  may  be  in  progress  in  1830.  For  14  miles 
there  is  a  dead  level ;  and  an  agent  has  been  sent  to 
Ene:land  to  acquire  information. 


1^ 


N L\V-LKBA>ON  SVKlMis!. 


There  is  a  fine  waterfall  about  8  miles  from  Albany, 
in  a  south-west  direction,  which  has  recently  attracted 
many  visiters,  on  a  branch  of  Nordman's  creek  ;  and 
although  it  presents  no  perpendicular  descent  of  any 
considerable  height,  the  water  dashes  over  a  great 
number  of  little  precipices  in  quick  succession,  which 
break  it  up  into  a  sheet  of  foam  ;  and  the  spot  itself  is 
of  quite  a  romantic  character. 

LEBANON  SPRINGS,  26  miles  east  from  Albany. 

Kew  Lebanon  Springs  is  one  of  the  most  delightful 
resorts  for  strangers,  in  point  of  situation,  being  in  this 
respect  incomparably  superior  to  either  of  the  great 
watering  places,  Saratoga  and  Ballston.  Among  all 
the  places  which  might  have  been  selected  for  an 
agreeable  residence  in  the  warm  seasons,  and  calcu- 
lated to  please  a  taste  for  the  softer  beauties  of  nature, 
none  perhaps  could  have  been  found  more  eligible 
than  that  we  are  about  to  describe. 

The  village  of  New-Lebanon  is  situated  in  a  little 
valley,  surrounded  by  fine  hills,  or  rather  spurs  from 
two  ranges  of  high  ground,  descending  with  a  rich, 
and  graceful  slope  on  every  side  to  its  borders.  The 
valley  is  almost  a  perfect  level,  which  contrasts  de- 
lightiully  with  the  bold  sides  of  the  uplands,  some 
of  which  are  divested  of  their  forests,  and  ornamented 
with  cultivated  fields  and  farms,  presenting  a  rich  va- 
riety to  the  eye  wherever  it  turns. 

On  the  side  of  a  hill  about  two  miles  east  from  the 
village,  and  about  half  way  to  the  summit  of  the  ridge, 
issues  out  a  Spring  of  clear  warm  water,  which,  al- 
though possessed  of  no  strong  mineral  qualities,  has 
given  the  place  its  celebrity  ;  and  there  stands  a  fine 
and  spacious  hotel,  to  which  the  visiter  will  direct  his 
course. 

In  coming  from  the  west,  the  Shaker  Village  opens 
just  bcyona  the  last  turnpike  gate  ;  and  on  approach- 
ing^ the  hotel,  it  is  better  to  take  the  road  whirh  turns 


!■. 


\E\V-LEBA?»OA  ^tHrMiS. 


4o 


from  Albany, 
itly  attracted 
I  creek ;  and 
jscent  of  any 
over  a  great 
;ssion,  which 
spot  itself  is 


om  Albany. 

)st  delightful 
being  in  this 
of  the  great 
Among  all 
ected  for  an 
s,  and  calcu- 
es  of  nature, 
lore  eligible 

pd  in  a  little 

:  spurs  from 
with  a  rich, 

rders.  The 
ontrasts  de- 
lands,  some 
ornamented 

)g  a  rich  va- 

ast  from  the 

)f  the  ridge, 

,  which,  al- 

ualities,  has 

tands  a  fine 

11  direct  his 

illage  opens 
n  approach - 
which  turns 


ud  to  the  right,  as  the  direct  road  up  the  hill  is  very 

steep  and  laborious. 

:    The  terms  of  boarding  are  as  follows  :  in  July,  $6 

per  week,  and  at  other  seasons  $7.    Near  the  Spring 

is  a  Bath  House,  containing  warm,  cold,  and  shower 

baths. 

A  little  arbour  will  be  observed  on  the  acclivity  of 
the  hill  above  the  house,  the  path  to  which  lies  through 
the  garden ;  and  there  an  uninterrupted  view  will  be 
enjoyed  over  the  surrounding  landscape.  A  still  more 
'^vtensive  one  may  be  obtained  from  the  summit  of  the 
(nil,  by  following  the  road  for  a  considerable  distance 
up,  and  then  turning  oflf  into  the  fields.  But  the  for- 
mer point  of  view  will  be  most  frequently  taken  by 
visiters,  on  account  of  the  facility  of  access.  On  the 
south-east  is  the  road  to  Northampton  ;  south-west  tlie 
most  extensive  scene,  and  the  road  to  the  Sl)aker  Vil- 
lage ;  west,  village  of  New  Lebanon,  and  road  to  Al- 
bany and  Troy  ;  north-west,  the  side  of  a  fine  sloping- 
hill,  well  cultivated,  and  near  at  hand. 

Distances,  To  Albany,  26  miles  ;  Troy,  27.  (This 
is  the  shortest  way  to  Ballston  and  Saratoga  Springs, 
Lake  George,  &c. )     To  Hartford,  69  ;  Hudson,  28. 

The  waters  of  the  Spring  are  abundant,  and  much 
esteemed  for  bathing,  always  keeping  the  temperature 
of  72  (\iig.  Fahrenheit,  although  they  cannot  be  sup- 
posed to  possess  any  mineral  virtues,  as  may  be  infer- 
led  from  an  examination  of  the  following  analysis 
given  by  Dr.  Meade,  and  quoted  by  Professor  Silliman. 
Two  quarts  of  the  Lebanon  water  contain 
Muriate  of  lime,  1  grain. 


n 


Muriate  of  soda. 
Sulphate  of  lime,  li 
Carbonate  of  do. 


Of  Aeriform  fluids. 

Nitrogen  gas,  13  cubic  in. 
Almospher.  air,8  do. 


5  grains.  21 

The  Lebanon  water  is  there tbie  purer  than  most 
natural  waters,  and  purer  than  tho.cc  in  the  vicinitv. 


41 


MiW-LEBANOxV  ai'Ri^G^T. 


which  flow  from  the  very  same  hill.  It  resembles  \  eiy 
much  the  Buxton  water  in  England,  though  it  is  not 
quite  so  warm  ;  and  the  Bristol  water  is  another  ex- 
ample of  tepid  water  almost  entirelj'  without  mineral 
qualities.  Professor  Silliman  compares  the  scenery 
about  Lebanon  Springs  to  that  of  Bath  in  England.  It 
is  however  graduated  more  on  those  principles  of  taste 
which  habit  cherishes  in  an  American,  as  it  abounds 
iar  more  in  the  deep  hues  of  the  forest,  and  every 
where  exhibits  the  sigo   of  progressive  improvement. 

Messrs.  Hull  &  Bentley's  house  at  the  Springs  is 
very  large,  commodious,  and  elegant ;  and  has  accom- 
modated 300  persons  at  one  time.  The  attendance 
and  table  will  be  found  excellent,  and  Saratoga  and 
Ballston  waters  may  be  obtained  at  the  bar.  It  stands 
close  by  the  spring,  and  is  furnished  with  baths  sup- 
I^lied  with  the  water.  The  old  house  measures  90 
leet,  and  the  new  one  120  feet  long.  They  stand  in 
the  form  of  an  L,  and  a  fine  piazza  runs  along  them 
both,  measuring  220  feet.  The  place  now  vies  with 
Ballston  and  Saratoga,  and  has  sometimes  counted 
more  visiters  than  either  of  them. 

There  is  a  small  fish  pond  in  the  neighbourhood. 

ROADS  FROM  LEBANON  SPRINGS. 

* 

From  New-Lebanon  Springs  to  Troy,  there  is  a 
very  good  road,  through  a  variegated  country.  Dis- 
tances as  follows :  to  Nassau,  16  miles ;  thence  to 
Troy,  11. 

From  the  Springs  to  Hudson  is  28  miles,  and  stage 
coaches  go  thither.  The  following  is  a  table  of  dis- 
tances on  the  road  to  Boston  : 

Pittsfield,*  7  miles  ;  Hinsdale,  9  ;  Peru,t  4  ;  Wor- 
thington,  6  ;  Chesterfield,  6  ;  Northampton,!  13  ;  Had- 

*  At  Pittsfield  is  a  flouvishing  Boarding  School  lor  boys. 

t  A  church  roof  on  a  hill  in  this  town,  is  said  to  divide  the  waters  of 
the  Connecticut  and  Housutonick,  the  rain  runnin*;  from  it  in  op[H>silc 
directions. 

:t  Nortliampton  iis  a  beautiful  town  on  Connecticut  River,  and  well 


.NKAV  LEBAAU^N  HtHmHi 


46 


esembleo  \eiy 
lough  it  is  nut 
is  another  ex- 
thout  mineral 
5  the  scenery 
Enffland.  It 
iciples  of  taste 
as  it  abounds 
St,  and  every 
improvement, 
he  Springs  is 
id  has  accom- 
le  attendance 
Saratoga  and 
ar.  It  stands 
ith  baths  sup- 
measures  90 
rhey  stand  in 
ns  along  them 
^w  vies  with 
[imes  counted 

ibourhood. 

IINGS. 

♦, 
)y,  there  is  a 

ountry.     Dis- 

s;    thence  to 

es,  and  stage 
table  of  dis- 

u,t  4  ;    Wor- 
)n,.i  13  ;  Had- 

ide  tlie  waters  m' 
rom  it  in  opiMSilc 

t  River,  and  ^veJl 


jiiy,  3  ;  Amherst,  4  ;  Belchertown,  7  ;  Ware,  6  ;  Wes- 
tern, 8  ;  Brookfield,  6  ;  Spencer,  7  ;  Leicester,  11 ; 
Worcester,  6  ;  Framingham,  10  ;  Boston,  21—134. 

The  Shaker,  Village,  a  few  miles  from  the  Springs, 
is  an  object  of  attention  to  most  visiters.  The  village 
itself  presents  a  scene  of  great  neatness  and  beauty, 
as  it  is  situated  on  a  beautiful  level,  and  laid  out  with 
the  utmost  regularity.  The  fields  are  divided  by  right 
lines,  fenced  with  tne  most  substantial  materials,  and 
cultivated  with  great  faithfulness  and  skill.  It  is  a 
Jeading  principle  with  the  society,  to  allow  of  no  pri- 
vate properly  :  all  the  possessions  of  those  who  join 
them  are  thrown  into  the  common  stock,  and  submitted 
at  once  to  their  peculiar  system  of  life  and  govern- 
ment. Celibacy  they  insist  upon  as  indispensable  ; 
and  they  profess  to  banish  the  love  of  wealth  and  am- 
bition, as  well  as  luxury  in  all  its  degrees,  from  their 
territories. 

So  much  has  been  lately  published  on  their  pecu- 
liar doctrines,  that  few  words  need  to  be  said  here  on 
the  subject.  Not  that  their  principles  are  very  per- 
fectly understood  by  the  public ;  on  the  contrary,  few 
indeed  can  be  said  to  comprehend  them,  even  among 
the  society  itself.  It  may,  in  fact,  be  doubted,  whether 
two  persons  could  be  found  who  would  give  the  same 
representation  of  the  subject. 

The  founder  of  their  sect  was  Ann  Lee,  who  came 
from  England  some  years  ago,  and  established  a  small 
"  family,"  as  they  call  it,  which  has  been  succeeded 
by  various  similar  institutions  in  different  parts  of  the 
country.  They  regard  that  woman  as  nearly  equal  to 
the  Saviour  of  the  world  ;  and  themselves  as  the  only- 
persons  who  have  received  that  spiritual  light  which  is 
necessary  to  understand  and  practise  the  duty  of  man, 
that  is,  to  renounce  the  pleasures  of  the  world,  and, 
by  a  life  of  self-denial,  present  a  living  testimony 
against  error  and  wickedness.    Their  dress  is  plain, 

\vortl)y  of  a  day's  delay  at  least.  Mount  Hohjolce  commands  tlie  finest 
-  ?>w  in  this  part  of  Die'-oimtrv,  and  is  ta»'ly  arcessihlp.    (!r?ee  Influx  j 


•10 


UlTi  UI   ALiJA.NA. 


and  their  worsliip  consists  principally  of  a  strange  and 
disagreeable  kind  of  dancing,  whence  they  have  their 
name,  accompanied  with  a  monotonous  song. 

Some  of  their  most  experienced  and  perfect  mem- 
bers  pretend  to  "  speak  with  tongues,"  heal  diseases 
with  a  touch  of  the  hand,  and  perform  other  miracles 
like  the  apostles.  They  consider  the  marriage  con- 
tract as  dissolved  on  joining  the  society. 

They  pay  great  attention  to  the  raising  of  garden 
seeds  m  most  of  their  villages,  as  well  as  to  several  of 
the  neater  branches  of  manufacture,  and  derive  from 
both  a  very  handsome  income,  by  making  sales  at 
home  and  in  distant  parts  oi"  the  country.  Whoever 
has  an  opportunif3r  to  see  this  singular  people,  will 
probably  leel  gratified  with  their  neatness,  industry, 
and  economy  ;  but  will  perhaps  leave  the  place  with 
pity  for  some,  and  suspicion  of  others. 

Geology.  The  tract  of  country  between  New-Le- 
banon and  Albany  is  transition.  Bluish  gray  transi- 
tion limestone,  with  veins  of  calcareous  spar,  abounds 
here  in  strata  on  a  large  scale,  with  a  considerable 
inclination.  It  is  compact,  with  a  slaty  structure. 
Grayvvacke  abounds  at  intervals  ;  also  transition  slate, 
and  a  fine  red  sandstone.  At  Greenbush  k  a  bed  ot^ 
ynintlammable  fossil  coal,  or  anthracite. 

ALBANY. 

The  Albany  Basin,  The  northern  ruid  western 
canals  unite  at  the  distance  of  OJ-  miles  from  Albany, 
and  terminate  here,  at  a  large  Uasin  in  the  Hudson, 
one  of  the  greatest  works  connected  with  the  canal. 
It  is  4000  feet  long,  and  has  two  or  three  handsome 
bridges,  one  with  a  draw  to  allow  a  passage  for 
sloops,  which  leads  from  the  foot  of  State-street.  The 
pier  which  encloses  the  basin  on  the  river  side,  is  built 
of  logs,  and  wide  enough  for  a  spacious  street.  It  is 
a  place  of  deposite  for  vast  quantities  of  lumber. 

Annually  there  are  many  arrivals  and  departures  of 


a  strange  and 
iy  have  their 

aerfect  mem- 
leal  diseases 
ther  miracles 
narriage  coti- 

ig  of  garden 
to  several  of 
derive  from 
cing  sales  at 
^  Whoever 
people,  w^ill 
?ss,  industry, 
e  phce  with 

en  New-Le- 
gray  transi- 
par,  abounds 
considerable 
ty  structure, 
msition  slate, 
I  is  a  bed  of 


■m 


KOtTE  TO  MA(iAltA.  *  « 

canal  boats  at  Albany,  with  o-real  quantities  of  flour, 
and  many  million  feet  of  plank  and  boards.  Thou- 
sands of  tons  of  merchandis»%  also,  go  north  and  west. 

The  size  of  this  basin  may  aflbrd  the  stranger  some 
idea  of  the  extent  of  the  business  created  by  the  canalr-. 
Here  the  traveller  gets  the  first  view  of  objects  with 
which  he  is  afterward  to  become  familiar  ;  and  if  he 
is  travelling  this  way  for  the  first  time  in  a  few  years, 
he  must  look  with  surprise  upon  the  crowd  of  boats, 
and  the  bustle  of  industry.  He  may  look  upon  them 
also  with  additional  interest ;  for  they  will  be  hereaf- 
ter presented  to  his  view  in  many  varying  forms, 
though  still  preserving  the  characteristic  aspect  and 
impression,  which  dislingnish  the  whole  line  of  inter- 
nal improvements  to  its  termination.  Tolls  on  both 
canals  in  1829,  about  ^790,000. 

The  route  to  Schenectady,  by  the  canal,  although  so 
much  longer  than  the  stage  road,  and  so  much  ob- 
structed by  frequent  locks,  is  highly  worthy  of  the 
traveller's  attention,  cither  in  going  or  in  returning ; 
ibr  it  will  afford  him  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  junc- 
tion of  the  two  canals,  the  Cohoes  Falls  on  the  Mo- 
hawk, the  locks  by  which  the  rise  of  land  is  artificially 
surmounted,  the  aqueducts  which  bear  the  canal  twice 
across  the  river,  the  Wat  Hoix  Rapid,  and  the  gap 
through  which  the  canal  passes  ;  the  scenery  at  Alex- 
ander's Bridge,  &c. 

Niskeyuna^  the  original  settlement  of  the  Shakers,  is 
about  4|  miles  from  Albany. 

ROUTE  FROM  ALBANY  TO  NIAGARA. 

The  boats  start  from  the  first  lock,  which  is  at  the 
north  end  of  Albany  ;  so  that  a  carriage  will  be  neces- 
sary for  the  traveller  and  his  luggage. 

Description  of  a  Canal  Packet'  Boat.  The  length  is 
60  or  70  feet,  a  large  part  of  which  is  devoted  to  the 
dining  room,  where  two  rows  of  tables  are  set.  At 
night;  mattresses  are  spread  on  tlio  seats  each  side, 


4ii 


KOLTE  TO  NIAGARA. 


and  in  another  row  above  them  on  cots  suspended  Ironi 
the  roof.  The  ladies  are  accommodated  with  births 
in  the  cabin,  which  is  usually  carpeted,  hung  with  cur- 
tains, and  in  other  respects  more  handsomely  fur- 
nished. The  kitchen  and  bar  are  conveniently  situ- 
ated ;  and  the  tables  are  spread  with  an  abundance, 
and  often  a  delicacy,  which  may  well  surprise  those 
not  accustomed  to  the  cheapness  of  travelling  in  this 
part  of  the  country. 

A  small  library,  a  number  of  newspapers,  &c.  will 
serve  to  make  the  time  pass  agreeably,  even  if  the  tra- 
veller be  a  stranger,  or  the  weather  not  inviting.  In 
many  places,  the  view  from  the  deck  is  hiehly  inte- 
resting ;  but  it  cannot  be  too  often  recommended  to  the 
stranger  to  beware  of  standing  on  deck  when  ap- 
proaching a  bridge,  and  never  to  expose  the  head  or 
hands  out  of  a  window. 

'  RENSSELAERWYCK, 

A  fine  estate  with  its  respectable  old  mansion  house, 
about  a  mile  north  of  the  centre  of  the  city,  is  worthy 
of  particular  observation,  as  the  seat  of  the  Honour- 
able Stephen  Van  Rensselaer,  who  bears  the  respected 
old  Dutch  title  of  Patroon  of  Albany.  The  estate  is 
of  immense  value,  extendir^  ten  miles  along  the  river, 
and  double  that  distance  east  and  west;  while  he 
possesses  besides,  a  fine  tract  on  the  Black  River,  &c. 
It  was  formerly  entailed  and  secured  by  law  to  the  oldest 
son  of  the  family  ;  but  on  the  death  of  the  present  pro- 
prietor it  is  to  be  divided  equally  among  all  the  chil- 
dren. The  character  of  Gen.  V.  R.  is  too  estimable 
and  influential  to  allow  hi§  name  to  be  passed  over  in 
silence,  even  in  a  work  like  the  present  little  volume. 
He  has  been  a  powerful  patron,  for  many  years,  of  all 
plans  for  the  public  benefit,  and  one  of  the  earliest  and 
most  efficient  friends  of  the  Erie  Canal,  which  passes 
through  his  grounds,  and  terminates  within  view  of  his 
hoiise. 


■  r' 


f 


I 

■4 


uspeiided  lioUi 
ed  with  births 
hung  with  cur- 
mdsomely  fur- 
weniently  situ- 
an  abundance, 
surprise  those 
ivelting  in  this 

pers,  &c.  will 
even  if  the  tra- 
t  inviting.  In 
i$  highly  inte- 
imended  to  the 
!ck  when  ap- 
e  the  head  or 


mansion  house^ 
:ity,  is  worthy 
>f  the  Honour- 
i  the  respected 
The  estate  is 
ilong  the  river, 
!st;  while  he 
ck  River,  &c. 
w  to  the  oldest 
e  present  pro- 
)g  all  the  chil- 
too  estimable 
)assed  over  in 
little  volume, 
y  years,  of  all 
le  earliest  and 
which  passes 
lin  view  of  his 


n 


\ 


H- 


1;MT£D  states    AllsJ^NAL. 


4'9 


'  v.  States'  Arsenal,  5]  miles,  at  Gibbonsville.  The 
advantages  uf  this  situation  will  be  immediately  per- 
ceived :  tiki  vicinity  to  the  Hudson,  the  road,  and  the 
canal  affording?  every  convenience  for  the  transporta- 
tion of  arms  and  ammunition.  This  denositcry  of 
arms,  &c.  is  under  the  charge  of  Major  Talcott. 

The  ground  occupied  by  the  arsenal  extends  from 
the  road  near  the  river,  back  to  the  towr  path  of  the 
canal,  where  are  two  gun  houses,  with  low  projecting 
roofs  to  protect  the  carriages  from  exposure  to  the 
weather.  Strangers  may  easily  gain  access  by  mere 
application  at  the  officers'  quarters.  One  floor  is  de- 
voted to  such  arms  as  are  intended  for  the  supply  of 
the  militarjr  posts,  or  have  been  received  for  repairing. 
The  arms  in  the  other  parts  are  disposed  with  more 
taste,  'llie  muskets  are  partly  packed  in  boxes,  and 
partly  ranged  upright,  with  fixed  bayonets,  in  compact 
order;  and  present  an  appearance  truly  formidable. 
Thousands  of  pistols  arc  hung  overhead  ;  those  in  the 
alternate  lines  standing  different  ways ;  and  swords 
with  metallic  scabbards  are  disposed  horizontally  on 
wire  hooks.  The  walls  bear  several  devices  formed 
of  swords,  pistols,  &c.  ingeniously  arranged.  This  is 
the  principal  depot  of  arms  and  equipments  in  the 
northern  states. 

The  passages  and  staircases  are  hung  with  drums, 
&;c.  On  the  ground  floor  are  a  few  pieces  of  artillery,, 
and  various  sizes  of  shot,  shells,  &c.  &c. 

In  the  yard  are  two  ranges  of  buildings.  That  on 
the  north  is  devoted  to  workshops  for  the  repair  of 
arms,  manufacturing  locks,  &lc.  about  30  men  being 
usually  employed,  most  of  whom  are  enlisted.  The 
buildings  on  the  south  side  are  occupied  by  sriiiths  and 
carpenters.  Behind  these  is  a  handsome  flower  and 
fruit  garden ;  the  kitchen  garden  being  on  the  north 
side  of  the  grounds. 

The  muskets  are  repaired  about  once  in  a  yeat ; 
which  costs  from  50  cents  to  Jjl  50  or  $2  each.  The 
barrels  are  oxydized,  to  prevent  nisting.     The  mus- 

E   2 


no 


KOITE    TO    NTAtiAKA. 


kcls  Weigh  a  little  more  than  ten  pounds,  and  the  pai  i> 
are  intended  to  correspond  as  nearly  as  can  easily  bu 
done. 

In  the  yard  are  a  number  of  cannon,  &tc.  There 
are  4  meaiutn  12  pounders,  one  24,  and  one  howitzer, 
all  taken  at  Saratoga  ;  4  medium  li2  pounders  and  one 
howitzer,  taken  at  Yorktown ;  two  long  antique  pieces 
and  one  8  inch  mortar,  t^ken  at  Stony  Point ;  two  old 
French  4  pounders  and  14  guns,  sent  by  king  Louis  to 
the  Continental  Congress  in  the  Kevolution.  These 
are  all  of  brass,  and  most  of  them  highly  ornamented. 
The  French  guns  presented  by  the  king  bear  each  an 
individual  name  forward,  and  the  inscription  "  Ultima 
ratio  reguiiC'' — (the  last  argument  of  kings.) 

There  are  also  three  or  four  howitzers  cast  in  New- 
York  and  Philadelphia  in  the  Revolution,  some  of  the 
oldest  specimens  of  such  manufacture  in  this  country. 
They  bear  the  letters  U.  C.  for  United  Colonies, 


Bif 


TROY, 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  a  very  handsome 
town,  with  nne  hills  in  the  rear,  the  most  prominent 
of  which  has  received  the  name  of  Mount  Ida,  to  cor- 
respond with  the  classic  appellation  of  the  place. 
There  is  a  good  horse  ferry,  which  helps  to  render  the 
town  a  great  thoroughfare  during  the  travelling  season. 
The  Dam  and  Basin  at  Troy  form  a  great  and  expen- 
sive work,  and  are  of  marked  benefit  to  the  place,  by 
diverting  a  part  of  the  business  of  the  canal.  The 
court-house,  and  other  public  buildings  are  worthy  of 
notice. 

The  road  to  New-Lebanon  is  a  very  good  and  very 
pleasant  one.    The  distance  is  27  miles. 

Sandy  Lake  is  10  miles  on  this  road,  Nassau  8  more, 
tillage  of  New-Lebanon  12  further,  and  Lebanon 
Springs  2  more. 

On  Mount  Ida,  the  hill  east  of  Troy,  is  a  fine  suc- 
cession of  waterfalls,  on  two  streams,  the  Poestenkill 


4:irv  or  Tiiuv. 


;w 


.4iiil  the  Wyiianlskill.  One  of  them  lias  cut  its  way 
ill  some  places  to  a  great  deptb»  and  takes  three  or 
Tour  perpendicular  leaps  at  short  intervals  qf  only  a 
few  yaros.  The  road  to  New-Lebaoon  Springs  leads 
near  the  place,  which  is  worthy  of  attention  for  its 
picturesque  character.  There  are  several  njills  of 
different  descriptions,  and  a  cotton  nianufactory  on  the 
same  stream,  where  Nos.  34  and  36  are  made.  The 
factory  is  laige  enough  for  2,300  spindles  and  70 
power  looms. 

Mount  Ida. — The  view  from  the  top  of  this  hill,  and 
still  more  from  the  mountain  behind  it,  is  very  exten- 
sive  and  beautiful.  It  embraces  the  Hudson  for  a 
considerable  distance  up  and  down ;  with  the  courses 
of  the  two  canals,  before  and  after  their  junction ; 
together  with  many  of  the  objects  already  spoken  of; 
particularly  the  range  of  the  distant  Catskill  Mountains, 
which  present  a  boundary  to  the  scene  in  the  south-west. 

A  canal  route  has  been  surveyed  by  the  state  of 
Massachusetts,  from  Boston  to  Troy.  From  Troy  to 
Connecticut  river,  78  miles  of  canal  would  cost  three 
millions  of  dollars,  with  a  tunnel  of  four  miles  through 
Hoosac  mountain,  k>ckage  611  feet. 

At  the  Fan  Rensselaer  School^  the  students  deliver 
lectures,  by  Hirns,  on  the  branches  of  study  to  which 
they  are  devoted  ;  and  during  the  pleasant  seasons  of 
the  year,  they  allow  much  time  to  making  personal 
observations  on  farming,  the  botany  of  the  neighbour- 
hood, &c.  Boarding  costs  about  $1,50  per  week,  and 
no  chaige  is  made  for  room  rent,  use  oi  the  library, 
apparatus,  kc, 

Rensselaer  School  at  Troy. — A  very  liberal  and  gene- 
rous step  hag  been  adopted,  with  regard  to  the  ad- 
mission of  pupils  into  this  institution.  Any  person 
above  18  years  of  age  is  gratuitously  offered  educa- 
tion, who  shall  present  a  certificate  from  the  first  judge 
of  any  county  nn  the  state,  attesting  his  scientific  ac- 
quisitions to  be  equal  to  those  requured  by  law,  to  be 
taught  it)  any  incorporcited  academy  there ;  and  that 


KOUTE   TO   MAtlARA. 


he  has  a  good  moral  character,  and  will  return  to  his 
county  and  exert  himself  to  introduce  and  extend  the 
experittiental  plan  of  education. 

Mm  Willarcfs  Academy,  for  young  ladies,  is  also  a 
very  respectahle  establishment. 

The  Flour  Mil,  south  of  the  town,  can  grind  2000 
bushels  of  wheat  in  a  day,  and  1500  with  ease. 

The  JVail  and  Spike  Manufactory  makes,  of  red- 
hot  iron,  every  thing  from  a  shingle  nail  to  a  ship 
spike.  ... 

HYDROSTATIC  LOCK. 

In  order  to  prevent  fraud  in  the  collection  of  toll, 
three  of  these  works  have  been  constructed  : — one  at 
Troy,  one  at  Utica,  and  one  at  Syracuse.  They  are 
commonly  called  weigh-locks.  The  following  account 
of  them  may  be  interesting  to  those  who  have  never 
seen  them. 

The  chamber  is  on  the  same  level  with  the  canal. 
and  is  filled  from  it  by  a  paddle  gate.  On  a  level 
below  the  chamber,  is  a  receptacle,  into  which  the 
chamber  can  be  emptied ;  and  from  this  the  water 
can  be  discharged, 

"  Suppose  the  column  of  water  in  the  lock  in  which 
the  boat  is  afloat,  is  85  feet  'ong,  15  wide,  and  4  feet 
deep ;  then  by  multiplying  the  length,  width,  and 
depth  of  this  column  into  each  other,  its  contents  in 
cuoic  feet  are  obtained.  The  water  is  then  drawn 
off  into  the  receptacle,  and  the  boat  settles  down  upon 
timbers,  so  arranged  as  to  yield  to  its  shape,  by  which 
it  is  supported,  without  being  strained  or  injured. 
The  quantity  of  water  drawn  from  the  lock  is  then 
ascertained  by  a  graduated  rod.  Suppose  the  water 
in  the  receptacle  measures  30  feet  long,  25  feet  wide, 
and  5  feet  deep  :  these,  multiplied  into  each  other  as 
before,  will  produce  3750  cubic  fee^  It  appears  from 
the  above,  that  the  water,  with  the  loader!  boat  floating 
in  it,  contained  6100  cubic  tieet,  and  that  the  sam^  water 


THE   JUNCTIOX. 


oo 


uiawn  off  and  measured  separately,  contained  3750 
cubic  (eet,  which,  subtracted  from  the  preceding,  will 
f!;\ve  1350  cubic  feet  of  water  displaced  by  the  loaded 
boat.  And  as  a  cubic  foot  of  fresh  water  weighs  1000 
ounces  avoirdupois,  or  62|  pounds,  it  follows  that 
1350X62|=84375,  the  weight  of  the  loaded  boat. 
This  is  to  be  reduced  to  tons,  and  the  weight  of  the 
empty  boat  previously  ascertained  in  the  same  manner, 
is  to  ^vj  deducted,  and  the  remainder  will  be  the 
weight  of  the  cai^o.  After  an  empty  boat  has  been 
once  weighed,  she  is  numbered,  and  her  weight  is 
registered  at  the  several  hydrostatic  locks." 

Some  of  the  ordinary  locks  on  the  route  were 
altered  on  a  new  plan  in  1827,  by  which  they  are 
emptied  in  half  the  former  time. 

The  opportunity  for  looking  around  on  every  side 
is  much  better  enjoyed  in  a  canal  boat  than  in  a  stage 
coach,  or  even  a  private  carriage,  although  it  some- 
times happens,  that  the  road  commands  more  extensive 
views  than  the  canal.  The  immediate  scene  from  the 
latter,  however,  will  usually  be  found  the  most  agree- 
able ;  for  a  smooth  sheet  ot  water,  with  level  and  often 
grassy  banks,  is  a  more  pleasant  sight  than  a  loi^ 
stretch  of  muddy  or  sandy  highway.  Besides,  it  is 
always  free  from  the  inconvenience  of  dust,  which 
frequently  renders  the  roads  in  this  part  of  the  countiy 
extremely  uncomfortable. 

The  Double  Locks, — The  two  locks  which  occur  just 
below  the  junction  of  the  northern  and  western  canals, 
were  doubled  in  1825,  to  furnish  room  for  the  boat^, 
which  pass  here  in  great  numbers.  They  are  built 
of  marble  from  Westchester  county. 

The  Junction,  S^  miles  from  Albany,  is  where  the 
Northern  and  Western  canals  meet  and  unite.  To 
this  spot  the  canal  has  been  of  a  greater  width  than 
eitiier  of  the  branches  will  be  found  to  be.  The 
Northern  canal  runs  to  Whitehall,  Lakv-  Champlain, 
with  locks,  a  distance  of  62^  miles,  pafising  through 
\Vatprford.Halfm<>on.  Stjjl wafer. near  Ff»mi«'^  Heights 


51 


KOUTE   TO   MAGAUA. 


(14  miles  from  Waterford,)  with  the  battle  grounds  ot 
General  Bur^oyne,  Fort  Hardy,  where  he  surrendered. 
Fort  Miller,  Fort  Edward,  and  Fort  Anne. 

The  Erie  or  Western  canal,  reaches  to  Buffalo,  on 
Lake  Erie,  a  distance  of  362  miles.  It  has  83  locks, 
whi:h  raise  and  lower  the  wa'^r  688  feet  in  all.  The 
principal  points  where  the  most  labour  and  expense 
were  required,  are  the  following; : 

The  Basin  at  Albany, — the  Dam  and  Basin  at  Troy, 
— the  Locks  at  the  Cohoes  Falls, — the  two  Aqueducts 
on  which  the  canal  twice  crosses  the  Mohawk, — the 
lonff  Stone  Wall  and  Locks  at  Little  Falls,  tog^ether 
with  the  beautiful  Aqueduct  for  the  Feeder  at  that 
place, — the  long  stretch  through  the  Onondaga  Swamp, 
— the  great  Embankment  at  Victor,  where  for  two 
miles  the  boats  pass  72  feet  above  the  level, — the 
Aqueduct  over  the  Genesee  at  Rochester, — the  five 
double  combined  Locks  at  Lockport,  and  the  long 
Pier  at  Black  Rock. 

The  principal  natural  objects  near  it  are  : 

The  Cohoes  Falls,— Little  Falls,— the  Falls  of  Tren- 
ton, 14  miles  north-east  of  Utica, — the  Lakes  of  Onei- 
da, Salina,  Onondaga,  Cayuga,  Seneca,  and  Canan- 
daigua — the  three  Falls  of  the  Genesee  River,  at 
Rochester  and  Carthage, — Niagara, — and  the  Lakes 
of  Ontario  and  Erie. 

The  amount  of  toll  received  on  the  Erie,  Cham- 
plain,  Oswego,  and  Cayuga  canals,  in  1829,  was 
$816,302. 

At  the  9  Locks,  the  road  to  Waterford  leaves  the 
Erie  canal  on  the  west,  and  the  Champlain  canal  on 
the  east ;  and  crosses  the  Mohawk  River  below  the 
Cohoes  Falls.  There  is  a  very  fine  view  of  the  locks, 
the  river,  and  the  falls,  from  the  road  which  runs  alone: 
the  South  bank  of  the  river,  140  feet  high,  between  it 
and  the  canal. 

(The  book  will  now  follow  the  great  route,  west- 
ward, to  Niagara.  For  the  road  to  the  Springs,  see 
Waterford.)  .   , 


.v^ 


tie  grounds  ot 
I  surrendered. 
e. 

0  Buffalo,  oil 
has  83  locks, 
in  all.  The 
and  expense 

ksin  at  Troy, 
vo  Aqueducts 
fohawk, — the 
alls,  together 
jeder  at  that 
daga  Swannp, 
bere  for  two 
e  level, — the 
ter, — the  five 
Hid  the  long- 

re : 

^alis  of  Tren- 
akes  of  Onei- 
and  Canan- 
ee  River,  at 
d  the  Lakes 

Erie,  Cham- 

1  1829,  was 

d  leaves  the 
lain  canal  on 
3r  below  the 
of  the  locks, 
:h  runs  alons: 
1,  between  it 

route,  west- 
Springs,  see 


LMON    iMLLEQE. 


COHOES  FALLS. 


^S- 


This  is  the  great  Cataract  of  the  Mohawk  River, 
The  heiffht  ot  the  fall  is  62  feet.  The  banks  are 
mere  walls  of  stratified  rock,  rough,  and  sometimes 
hollowed  out  beneath,  rising  about  140  feet  above  the 
river  for  a  great  distance  below  the  falls.  A  beautiful 
)\ew  bridge,  on  Towne's  plan,  was  built  across  the  river 
it)  1828,  near  the  dam,  some  d'^itance  below  the  old 
bridge.  At  first  view  the  u:!taract  appears  almost  as 
regular  as  a  mill-dam  ;  but  ou  a  nearer  approach,  the 
ledge  of  rocks  over  which  the  water  is  precipitated  is 
found  extremely  irregular  ai  d  broken*  Many  fine 
fish  are  caught  at  the  bottom. 

The  Lower  Aqueduct,  2|  miles  >  On  account  of  the 
difficulty  of  cutting  the  canal  along  this  side  of  the 
river,  above  this  place,  it  was  found  easier  to  cariy  it 
over,  as  there  is  a  natural  channel  on  the  other  side, 
which  will  be  seen  with  surprise.  This  aqueduct  is 
1188  feet  long,  and  rests  on  26  stone  piers  and  abut- 
ments. 

Wat  Hoix  Gap,  2i  miles — the  channel  above  men- 
tioned. 

Upper  Aqueduct,  9^  miles — 748  feet  long,  and  rests 
^n  16  piers.     The  scene  at  Alexander's  Bridge  is  fine, 

Schenectady  {Givens^  Inn)  is  one  of  the  oldest  set- 
llemeiits  in  the  state,  having  been  occupied  as  a  little 
frontier  fortress  before  the  year  1665,  when  it  was 
attacked  by  a  party  of  French  and  Indians  from 
Canada,  and  burnt,  and  many  of  the  inhabitants  mur- 
dered. This  party  was  designed  against  the  Five 
Nations ;  but  being  much  worn  down  with  travelling 
in  the  winter,  they  fell  on  Schenectady. 

Union  College  is  conspicuously  situated  a  little  out 
of  town.  Two  large  stone  buildings  have  been  erected 
several  years,  but  the  original  plan,  which  was  quite 
extensive,  has  never  been  completed.  Dr.  Nott  is 
president  of  this  highly  respectable  institution.  Irj 
1828,  79  young  men  graduated  at  this  institution. 


.:><.) 


KOLTi:   TO  INIAGAKA. 


m  '■' 


FROM  SCHENECTADY  TO  UTICA. 

By  the  Cana!  79^  miles.* 
Rotterdam  Flats  . .  /. .    3  miles. 

Flint  Hill 8 

Fort  Hunter 10 

North  of  the  canal,  and  on  the  bank  of  the  Mohawk, 
is  the  place  where  this  little  fort  formerljr  stood.  Like 
most  of  the  places  of  defence  built  in  this  state  during 
the  Revolution  and  the  French  wars,  it  was  small  and 
fitted  only  for  resisting  such  little  bands  of  enemies  as 
used  to  approach  the  settlements  on  this  frontier. 

Near  this  place  is  the  site  of  an  old  fort  of  the  Mo- 
hawk Indians ;  and  there  is  still  to  be  seen  a  chapel 
built  by  Q^een  Anne,  near  the  beginning  of  the  last 
century,  for  the  use  of  that  nation.  It  is  known  by 
the  name  of  Queen  Anne^s  ChapeL  , 

SCHOHARIE  CREEK.     1  mile. 

Here  is  a  collection  of  several  very  interesting  works, 
formed  for  the  convenient  passage  of  boats  across  a 
broad  and  rapid  stream.  A  guard  lock  preserves  the 
water  in  the  canal  from  rising  or  falling,  and  the  cur- 
rent of  the  creek  is  set  back  by  a  dam  a  little  below, 
nearly  to  the  same  level.  The  dam  is  constructed  in 
a  manner  best  calculated  to  resist  the  pressure  of  the 
current  in  floods,  and  when  increased  oy  the  ice.  It 
has  a  broad  foundation  and  a  narrow  top ;  and  it  is 
built  so  as  to  present  an  angle  against  the  middle  of 
the  current.  An  ingenious  invention  has  been  devised 
for  drawing  boats  across  the  creek  by  machineiy.  A 
wheel  turned  by  a  horse  moves  a  rope,  which  is 
stretched  double  across,  and  is  carried  round  a  wheel 
on  the  other  side ;  a  line  attached  to  this  draws  the 
boats,  they  Ipeing  kept  in  their  course  by  another  Ifne^ 


.'7w  fht  y-onft,  81  Tinlc'',    f?cff  "i?off(7ft%"  p'  iiti  (?Ti<l  of  til';;  vcflnmp. 


riCA. 


s. 


be  Mohawk, 
tood.  Like 
state  during 
as  small  and 
f  enemies  as 
rontier. 
t  of  the  Mo- 
ien  a  chapel 
<;  of  the  fast 
3  known  by 


isting  works, 
•ats  across  a 
reserves  the 
and  the  cur- 
little  below, 
nstructed  in 
ssure  of  the 
the  ice.  It 
p ;  and  it  is 
e  middle  of 
leen  devised 
chinerjr.  A 
e,  which  is 
jnd  a  wheel 
is  draws  the 
iqother  Ifne, 


tte  volnme. 


■.**lli|^?; 


/  ^ 


5^ 


5^ 


Ill 


ANTllONV  S    .NOsi:. 


•;  i 


which  slides  upon  a  long  rope  stretched  across  the 
^;reek  on  the  other  side  of  the  boats. 

OAUCaiNAWAGA^  4 J  miles:. 

The  village  of  Johnstozvn  is  situated  at  the  disi  ^nce 
of  four  miles  north  of  the  canal.* 

Atithnny's  jVosCf  7^'  nnlos.  'I'his  is  a  high  and  pro- 
minent hill,  rising  abruptly  on  the  southern  bank  of 
the  river.  On  the  top  is  a  remarkable  cavern,  which 
extends  downwards  to  a  great  depth,  with  several 


*  Tribe's  Hill  is  a  coimnanding  elevation  within  llic  liniila  of  Johns- 
town. It  was  foiiruijly  Hkj  place  of  tlie  co\iiicil  iixc.  of  tlic  Rlohawk 
Indians;  and  the  Germans  have  corrf^ed  its  name  to  "Tripe's  Hi!!," 
by  which  it  is  conunonly  liuown. 

At  Johnstown,  on  the  road,  are  two  hi.e  )  ises,  huilt  of  stone,  standing 
at  the  distance  of  a  mile  from  each  ther  They  wore  erected  by  Sir 
William  Johnson  and  his  family,  as  liiis  tract  of  country  was  the  place 
of  his  residence,  and  formed  a  part  of  his  vast  and  valuable  estate 
There  was  originally  a  third  house,  sin  Marly  built,  and  at  the  interval  of 
another  mile :  but  this  was  consumed  by  fire.  Col.  Guy  Johnson  and  Col. 
John  Johnson  (sons  of  Sir  Willi  m)  iniinbited  two  of  them  until  tho 
revolutionary  war;  wlien,  having:,  .ittachod  themselves  to  the  Dritisli 
interest,  ttiey  removed  into  Canada,  and  ilieir  estates  were  confiscatcii. 
Colonel  John  afterward  came  down  with  a  party  of  French  and  In 
dians,  attacked  the  town,  and  made  prisoners  many  of  his  old  friends 
and  neighbours. 

Sir  William  Johnson,  who  makes  so  conspicuous  a  fi!»ure  in  thfi 
history  of  the  stare  about  the  time  of  the  French  war,  was  born  in  Ire- 
land, in  1714,  and  in  1734  came  to  America,  at  the  solicitation  of  his 
uncle,  Sir  Peter  Warren,  who  had  acquired  a  large  estate  here  through 
iiis  wife.  Sir  William  became  well  acquainted  with  the  Indian  languagn 
and  manners,  and  acquired  a  greater  influence  over  them  than  any  othe/ 
white  man  ever  possessed.  He  rose  ftoni  the  stationof  a  private  soldier 
to  the  rank  of  a  general,  and  commanded  at  lake  George  in  1755,  although, 
as  will  hereafter  be  seen,  the  title  which  he  there  received  was  retilly 
merited  by  Gen.  layman.  July  25, 1751),  he  took  Fort  Niagara,  and  iit 
17G9  went  to  join  Gen.  Amherst  at  Osweg(j,  and  a.^sisted  in  the  capture 
of  Montreal,  He  died  and  was  buried  at  his  seat,  July  7,  1774,  at  thd 
age  of  60,  very  rich,  in  consequence  of  the  increased  value  of  his  exten- 
sive estate  after  the  P'rench  war.  Tliis  building  was  erected  in  1773, 
and  stands  nearly  a  mile  westward  from  the  village.  Tt  is  called  the 
Hall. 

llie  Battle  of  Johnstown.  On  the  25th  of  October,  1781,  Col.  Willct, 
with  400  wliite  men  and  60  of  the  Oneida  tribe,  fought  600  of  the  Eng- 
lish and  Indians,  on  the  grounds  belonging  to  the  mansion.  The  loss  of 
the  enemy  was  considerable,  and  they  suffered  so  much  during  their 
retreat,  Uiat  on  their  arrival  in  Canada  their  numbers  were  reduced 
mow. 

F 


0» 


Lot  ri:     lO    MAGA14A. 


apartments  of  considerable  size.  This  hill  is  repre-^ 
sented  in  one  of  the  plates  ;  but  the  view  is  taken  trom 
a  spot  west  of  it.  The  place  is  quite  picturesque,  and 
presents  a  remarkable  assemblage  ot  interesting  ob«' 
jects :  the  Mohawk  river,  winding  through  a  narrow 
valley,  with  the  turnpike  on  the  north  side,  the  canal 
and  a  country  road  on  the  south;  the  whole  enclosed 
by  rough  and  elevated  hills. 

There  is  every  appearance  of  a  rent  in  the  hills 
having  been  made  by  a  strong  current  of  water;  and 
geologists  consider  them  as  having  originally  been  a 
barrier  to  a  great  lake  which  was  thus  gradually 
drained. 

Canajoharie  Creek  and  Village,  5  miles.  Hence  a 
stage  coach  two  or  three  times  a  week  to  Cherry 
Valley. 

Fort  Plain,  4  miles.  Here  is  a  small  village,  be- 
longing to  a  town  inhabited  by  the  descendants  of 
Germans.  It  occupies  ihe  site  of  old  Fort  Plain.  The 
German  language,  much  corrupted,  is  spoken  here  by 
every  body. 

This  little  fort  was  surprised  by  Captain  Butler  in 
the  revolutionary  war,  on  his  return  from  burning 
Cherry  Valley;  and  here  he  committed  similar 
atrocities. 

DAM    ON    THE    RIVER,  AND    FEEDER    FOR 
THE  CANAL,  4  miles. 

The  Mouth  of  East  Canada  Creek,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  Monawk.  Near  thai  place,  Capt.  Butler 
met  a  violent  death,  soon  after  leaving  Fort  Plain,  on 
his  way  back  to  Oneida  Lake  and  the  Oswego.  He 
had  crossed  the  river  somewhere  below,  and  while 
lingering  a  litlle  in  the  rear  of  his  troops,  was  over- 
taken near  the  mouth  of  the  creek,  by  two  Oneida 
Indians,  in  friendship  wiih  the  Americans.  Seeing 
them  preparing  to  kill  him,  he  begged  for  his  life  ; 
but  they  only  re'pVwi^,  ^'Shemj  Valley !"'  and  tom-i' 
hawked  him  on  ^he  >^^o^ 


LITTLE    FALLS. 


6l» 


Alohawk  Castle,  2  miles.  This  was  the  principal 
defensive  position  of  that  famous  nation  of  Indians 
now  entirely  scattered  and  lost.  As  the  nearest  to  the 
Dutch  settlements,  and  New-England,  they  were  lone 
regarded  with  peculiar  solicitude,  and  frequently  with 
great  dread.  They  were  one  of  the  five  nations,  of 
which  we  shall  speak  more  particularl}^,  at  Oneida, 
and  were  long  Oiithful  and  serviceable  friends  to  the 
white  men.  Here  is  an  old  chapel  erected  for 
their  use. 

Palatine  Bridge.  A  little  off  the  canal,  at  Palatine, 
is  a  school  for  the  education  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb, 
established  under  the  patronage  of  the  state,  on  the 
plan  of  that  in  Hartford,  Connecticut.  It  is  the  cen- 
tral school  for  the  state  of  New- York .    (See  Hartford.) 

LITTLE  FALLS. 

The  country  presents  a  varied  surface,  and  increases 
in  interest  on  approaching  Little  Falls,  which  is  the 
most  romantic  scene  on  the  course  of  the  Erie  canal. 
On  reaching  a  little  open  meadow  surrounded  by  hills, 
where  the  views  open  upon  cultivated  fields  ana  a  few 
farm  houses,  the  Mohawk  will  be  found  flowing  below 
on  the  right ;  while  on  the  opposite  side,  at  Ine  foot 
of  the  hills  and  on  the  yeTs;e  of  the  forest  that  covers 
them,  the  great  road  is  seen,  after  having  been  lost  to 
the  view  for  a  long  time.  Here  is  situated  Gen.  Her- 
kimer's house,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  at  the 
f(LX)t  of  Fall  Hill.  The  road,  the  river,  and  the  canal 
are  collected  again  at  the  bead  of  the  valley ;  for 
there  is  but  one  passage,  and  that  so  narrow  as  hardly 
to  afford  room  for  them  all.  This  ifi  a  deep  cut  througn 
a  chain  of  limestone  and  granite  hills,  doubtless  torn 
away  in  some  former  age  by  the  force  of  water.  If 
the  chain  were  again  filled  up  it  would  throw  the 
water  back,  and  form  an  immense  lake,  such  as  is  sup- 
posed to  have  once  existed  west  of  this  place,  and 
which,  by  overflowina:  its  bounds,  in  proce?"  of  Wmp 


m 


liOLTli    TO    .MAGAll.!. 


i 


VJ 


%vore  away  Ihc  limestone  strata,  and  cut  deep  into  i\v. 
hard  g:ranite,  until  a  mere  river  succeeded,  and  tho 
line  alluvial  plains  above,  called  the  German  Flats, 
"vvere  left  dry. 

The  stranger  should,  by  no  means,  neglect  the  view 
of  this  place.  If  he  reaches  it  early  or  late  in  a  pleasant 
day,  particularly  near  the  rising  of  ibe  sun,  the  beauty 
of  tlie  scene  will  be  redoubled.  On  the  north  bank 
of  the  river,  the  road  climbs  along  the  side  of  the 
rocks,  v\li(in^  thf^re  is  bnn^ly  rooin  hr  its  passage.  A 
great  part  of  the  way,  it  is  almost  overhung  by  rocks 
and  trees  on  one  side,  while  on  the  other  is  a  preci- 
pice  of  granite,  cut  down  by  the  force  of  water  in 
perpendicular  shafts,  originally  formed  by  drills,  made 
by  loose  stones  whirled  round  in  the  current.  'I'he 
same  appearance  extends  to  the  islands  and  rocks  in 
the  channels,  many  of  which  appear  quite  inaccessible, 
with  their  ragged  and  perpendicular  sides  overhung 
by  dark  evergreei)*^,  whose  shade  seems  the  more 
intense  from  its  contrast  with  the  white  rapids  and  cas- 
cades below.  In  some  places  the  road  is  protected 
-by  immense  natural  battlements,  formed  of  massy 
rock,  wi)ich  have  been  loosened  irom  above,  and 
planted  themselves  on  the  brow  of  the  precipice.  The 
scenery  has  been  compared  with  that  of  the  river 
Dove  in  Derbyshire,  and  the  Killiii  in  Perthshire, 
England. 

On  ihe  south  side  of  the  river  runs  the  canal,  sup- 
ported by  a  wall  20  or  30  (net  high,  constructed  at 
great  expense,  and  rising  from  the  very  channel  of  the 
Moliawk.  The  wildness  of  the  surrounding  scenery 
contrasts  no  less  with  the  artificial  beauty  of  this 
noble  work,  than  the  violence  and  tumult  of  the  Mo- 
hawk with  the  placid  and  silent  surface  of  the  canal, 
or  the  calmness  and  security  with  which  the  boats 
glide  along  the  side  of  the  mountains. 

The  traveller  niay  step  on  shore  at  the  two  locks, 
and  walk  along  the  tow  paths,  as  there  are  five  more 
Jorls^    1   mile  above.     If  be  wishes   to  stop  a  few 


Si 


THE   AvirEDUCT. 


61 


hours  to  view  the  scene  more  at  leisure,  the  village  of 
Little  Falls  is  only  half  a  niiJc  from  that  place,  wnere 
is  a  larere  and  comfortable  inn,  with  canal  boats  and 
stage  coaches  passing:  very  frequently.  If  he  intends 
to  stay  but  a  few  hours,  it  is  recommended  to  him  to 
have  his  bni^p:age  left  at  a  I'ttle  tavern  on  the  canal, 
where  it  can  be  readily  transferred  to  another  boat. 

The  Aqueduct  across  the  Mohawk  is  near  the  five 
locks ;  and  is  considered  the  most  finished  specimen 
of  mason  work  on  the  line  of  the  canal,  thougfh  much 
inferior  in  size  to  that  over  the  Genesee  at  Rochester. 
It  conducts  a  supply  of  water  from  the  old  canal, 
formerly  built  for  boats  to  pass  the  falls,  and  commu- 
'iiicates  also  with  a  large  basin  on  the  north  bank.  It 
passes  the  narrow  channel  of  the  rive-  with  three 
beautiful  arches,  which  are  covered  with  a  calcareous 
cement  roughened  by  little  stalactites,  formed  by  the 
water  that  continually  drips  through  the  stones.  The 
span  of  the  middle  arch  is  60  feet.  Stones,  twigs  of 
trees,  &c.  on  which  the  water  falls,  are  soon  found 
incrusted  with  a  similar  substance.  The  channel  here 
shows  part  of  the  old  limestone  strata,  with  the  more 
durable  granite  rocks  laid  bare  below. 

This  range  of  mountains,  called  in  this  part  of  the 
state  the  Catsbergs,  is  a  spur  of  the  Alleghany,  and 
extends  along  the  west  siae  of  Lake  Champlam,  till 
it  disappears  in  the  northern  levels  in  Canada. 

This  neighbourhood  is  interesting  to  the  geologist, 
abounding  m  organic  remains,  &c.  but  the  ordinary 
traveller  will  be  more  pleased  with  specimens  of  the 
beautiful  little  rock-crystals  (quartz),  which  are 
found  on  the  hills  about  a  mile  distant  from  the  village. 
They  are  perfect  in  their  form,  terminating  with  two 
pyramids ;  and  are  so  loosely  imbedded  in  a  sandy 
rock,  as  to  be  washed  out  by  the  rains  in  considerable 
numbers. 

There  are  mills  of  various  kinds  at  this  place. 

On  leaving  Little  Falls,  the  canal  enters  upon  a 
beautiful  meadow  of  fine  soil,  and  a  smo<^  h  surface; 


&z 


Jll)Ul£    TO    :\1A(JAKA. 


through  which  the  Mohawk  wiixls  in  a  piacid  and 
gentle  current,  enclosed  on  each  side  by  sloping^  hills. 
At  the  distance  of  three  miles,  we  are  in  the  level  region 
called  the  German  Flats,  famous  for  its  fertility.  The 
inhabitants,  who  are  almost  all  ci  German  extraction, 
still  preserve  their  language,  and  many  of  the  customs 
of  their  ancestors,  and  though  oittn  laborious  and 
provident  farmers,  are  little  inclined  to  those  improve- 
ments, in  learning  or  the  useful  arts,  which  distinguish 
so  large  a  portion  of  the  state.  The  scenes  presented 
along  this  part  of  the  canal  bear  a  resemblance  to 
some  of  the  meadows  of  the  Connecticut,  although  of 
inferior  size,  and  of  more  recent  settlement. 

Six  miles  from  Little  Falls  is  Lock  JVo.  48.  An  old 
church  is  seen  on  the  south  side  ;  and  also,  old  Fort 
Herkimer. 

Herkimer.  This  village  is  situated  about  a  mile  and 
a  half  beyond,  and  a  mile  north  of  the  canal,  on  a 
semicircular  plain ;  the  circumference  of  which  is 
traced  by  the  Mohawk,  and  the  diameter  by  the 
great  Dad.  It  derives  its  name  from  Gen.  Herkimer, 
of  whom  there  will  be  more  to  say  at  Rome.  Fort 
Herkimer,  or  the  "  Stone  House,"  is  near  the  canal,  a 
mile  and  a  half  from  Herkimer. 

The  traveller  may  take  a  carriage  here,  to  visit 
Trenton  Falls,  and  join  the  canal  again  at  Ut.ca  ;  or 
go  firs*  from  Utica. 

The  Lo7tg  Level  begins  at  Lock  No.  53,  nearly  six 
miles  west  of  Herkimer.  It  is  the  longest  reach  on 
the  canal,  without  any  interruption  by  locks,  extending 
to  Salina,  a  distance  of  69/?  miles.  After  passing 
Frankfort,  we  reach 


UTICA. 

This  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  important  of  the 
western  towns.  Here  the  river,  the  great  road,  and 
the  canal,  all  meet  again.  There  are  also  roads  con- 
centratina:  here,  from  various  directions,  and  stage 


placid  and 
ioping:  hills. 

level  region 
tiiity.  The 
>  extraction, 
the  customs 
:»orious  and 
se  iiriprove- 

disfinguish 
's  presented 
mbJance  to 
although  of 

8.     An  old 
o,  old  Fort 

a  miJe  and 
anaJ,  on  a 
which  is 
er  by  the 
Herkimer, 
me.  Fort 
le  canal,  a 

S  to  visit 
Ut.ca  ;  or 

learly  six 

reach  on 

extending 

r  passing 


mt  of  the 
oad,  and 
ads  con- 
»d  stage 


=■— '"  "-^-i-.^- 


4  ft        ( 


* 


TRKXJCOS    iAi.L:^. 


r:^ 


cuacbes  arnvin^  and  departing:  in  great  nuniber.^-. 
There  are  two  large  stage  houses  ;  one  of  which,  al 
the  canal  bridge,  will  be  found  most  convenient,  if  not 
too  crowded. 

There  are  several  handsome  churches  in  Utica,  and 
one  or  more  for  almost  every  denomination.  The 
streets  are  broad,  straight,  and  commodious;  and  the 
principal  ones  well  built  with  rows  of  brick  stores,  or 
elegant  dvvellin^i-houses.  The  bridge  over  the  Mo- 
hawk is  at  the  end  of  the  street.  J'here  were,  in 
1825,  5040  irjhabilants  ;  a  few  less  than  in  Rochester. 

Weigh  Lock.     (See  p.  52.) 

Hamilton  CoUege  is  situated  near  the  village  of 
Clinton,  nine  miles  tVom  Utica.  There  were  fourteen 
oraduated  here  in  1828. 

TRENTON  FALLS. 

This  most  interesting  vicinity  is  well  worthy  the 
attention  of  every  person  of  taste,  being  justly  consi- 
dered one  of  the  finest  natural  scenes  in  this  part  of 
the  country.  An  excellent  inn  is  kept  near  the  lalls  by 
Mr.  Sherman,  who  has  a  large  collection  of  rare  and 
curious  petrifactions,  collected  among  the  rocks,  worthy 
of  examination. 

From  this  house  you  descend  a  long  staircase  down 
the  steep  bank  of  the  West  Canada  Creek,  which  has 
cut  a  frightful  chasm  through  a  rocky  range,  in  some 
places  150  feet  deep,  and  is  seen  gliding  swiftly  by 
through  a  declinhig  channel  below.  The  chasm  coii- 
tinues  for  four  miles,  and  presents  the  greatest  variety 
of  cascades  and  rapids,  boiling  pools  and  eddies.  The 
passage  or  chasm  between  the  rocks  is  everywhere 
very  narrow,  and  in  some  places  is  barely  sufficient 
to  permit  the  stream  to  pass  ;  while  the  rocks  rise 
perpendicularly  on  each  side,  or  sometimes  even 
project  a  considerable  distance  overhead,  so  that  it 
fias  been  often  necessary  to  ibrm  an  artificial  path  by 
moan?  of  s:unpowdf'r.     These  places  appear  daneev- 


i.    it 


V 


'I 


I 


n\ 


U4 


HOtTE   TU    iVlAJARA 


n 


'S 


ous,  but  only  require  a  little  ca^tjon  ar  1  preseuv^e  ot 
mind  to  ensure  the  safety  of  tht^  v'S'^er,  hs  strong  iron 
chains  are  fixed  into  the  rock :  to  otTer  him  security. 
There  are  four  principal  cataracts,  between  the  stair- 
case by  which  you  first  descend  and  the  usual  limit 
of  an  excursion,  which  is  about  a  mile  and  a  quarter 
up  the  stream.  The  first  of  these  you  discover  soon 
after  the  first  turning,  and  is  about  40  feet  his^h  ;  with 
the  greatest  fall  towards  the  west.  The  top  of  the 
rock  on  the  right  side  is  150  feet  high  by  line  mea- 
surement. The  second  is  a  regular  fall,  much  like  a 
mill  dam,  about  eight  feet  high  ;  the  third,  a  remark- 
ably striking  and  beautiful  one  ;  and  the  fourth,  rather 
a  succession  of  cascades,  but  presents  many  most 
agreeable  varieties. 

Near  the  foot  of  this  a  melancholy  accident  occurred 
in  1827.  A  lady  from  New-York  was  drowned  by 
slipping  from  a  low  bank  ;  unseen,  although  her  friends 
and  parents  were  near  her.  Tht  ear  is  stunned  by  the 
falls,  the  rocks  are  slippery,  and  great  caution  is  re- 
commended. 

A  singular  species  of  tree  is  found  in  this  neighbour- 
hood, called  the  white  cedar,  with  drooping  branches, 
which  often  grow  to  such  a  length  as  to  descend  far 
below  the  root,  towards  the  water.  The  rocks  here 
are  all  a  dark  limestone,  of  a  very  slaty  structure, 
and  contaii  -onishing  quantities  of  petrified  marine 
shelli  and  o^  ^t*  animals  of  antediluvian  date,  such  as 
dilobites,  trilobites,  kc.  &lc. 

The  are  several  other  cataracts  besides  those  already 
mentioned,  both  above  and  below ;  and  a  stranger 
might  spend  some  time  here  very  agreeably  in  observ- 
ing them  at  leisure,  and  in  catching  the  fine  trout  with 
which  the  creek  abounds.  The  house  is  commodious, 
and  has  the  reputation  of  furnishing  one  of  the  best 
tables  in  this  part  of  the  state. 


SJlilGE    OF   iOJiT    .STA.N»V1X. 


♦i;> 


2aeui.e  ot 
rong  iron 
security, 
the  stair- 
)Ua)  limit 
a  quarter 
over  soon 
B^h  ;  with 
3p  of  the 
line  mea- 
ch  like  a 
I  remark- 
1h,  rather 
any   most 

occurred 
iwned  by 
er  friends 
led  by  the 
ion  is  re- 

ei^hbour- 
branches, 
scend  far 
ocks  here 
structure, 
d  marine 
i,  such  as 

5e  already 
I  stranger 
in  observ- 
trout  with 
imodious, 
the  best 


IJTICA  TO  SYRACUSE. 

By  the  Canal  031  miles. 

VVhitestovvn, 4  mih  . . 

Oriskany  village, .     .  7 

Rome  on  the  right, C 

Feeder  from  Wood  Creek,  and  the  old  U. 

S.  Arsenal, 1 

Oneida  Creek, 14 

Lock  5-1,  end  of  the"  long  level,  ...      29 

Syracuse, — J 

These  places  are  noticed  in  succession. 
Whitestown  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  villages  in 
this  part  of  the  stale,  as  well  as  the  oldest  settlement. 
All  this  tract  of  country  was  a  perfect  wilderness  in 
J 785,  when  Mr.  White,  frosn  Middletown,  in  Connec- 
ticut, first  took  up  his  abode  here  ?nd  lifted  an  axe 
agai]}st  the  forest.  The  traveller  may  keep  this  in 
mind  as  he  pursues  his  journey,  and  the  progress  of 
civilization  will  appear  more  astonishing. 

SIEGE  OF  FORT  8TANWIX. 

On  (he  road  from  Whilestown  to  Rome,  i  the  spot 
where  Gen.  Herkimer  rem.ained  under  a  tree  fter  re- 
ceiving his  inortal  vvnurid.  In  1777,  Gen.  ugovne 
sent  between  1500  and  1800  men,  many  m  dien^  sa- 
vages, under  Baron  St.  Leger,  logo  trom  J\Ii  ■:  real,  by 
Lalce  Ontario,  to  attack  tort  Slanwix  ;  and  ll;  r?;  to 
go  down  the  Mohawk  to  Albany.  Early  i..  August, 
ihey.  arrived  at  Fort  Stanwix.  Gen.  Herkimer,  com- 
mander of  the  militia  of  Tryon  county,  was  sent  against 
them  with  800  men.  His  men  insisted  on  going  on,  to 
meet  a  detachment  under  Sir  J.  Johnson,  sent  out  by 
St.  Leger;  bi.t  at  the  first  shot  they  fled.  A  (ew  re- 
mained and  fought,  and  Gen.  H.  was  killed.  Con- 
gress voted  a  monument  to  his  memory.  I>'»;t  it  ha^ 
never  been  erected.  The  Americans  lost  100  killed. 
:>nd  240  woimdpd  and  pri-ooner*.     Two  mile^  bel''w 


l-^f:,]Wir 


ih  f 


(j^ 


KOUTE    TO    XI  AGAR  A. 


Fort  Stanwix  the  canal  commences  between  the  Mo- 
hawk ai.d  Wood  Creek. 

Fort  Stanwix  stood  60  or  80  rods  N.  E.  of  the  centre 
of  the  village  of  Rome,  with  a  deep  ditch,  three  rows 
of  p)alisad()es,  and  a  block-house  in  the  middle. 

Rome.  Near  this  villa)2:e,  when  the  canal  was  opened 
throuah  a  rid^e  of  diluvial  formation,  clams  were 
found  aiive,  which  were  eaten  by  the  workmen.  (See 
Am.  Journ.  of  Sci.  &.c.  Jan.  1829.) 

ONEIDA  CAfeTLE. 

This  is  a  village  on  the  confines  of  a  tract  of  re- 
served land  belonging  to  the  Indians  of  the  Oneida 
nation.  The  principal  residences  of  most  of  the  In- 
dians in  this  part  of  the  country  were  formerly  forti- 
fied in  a  manner  corresponding  with  their  ideas  of 
warfare,  and  hence  the  name  of  castle  attached  to 
this  village,  as  well  as  to  several  others  which  we  have 
occasion  to  speak  of  further  on. 

The  Oneidas  were  one  of  the  orisrinal  Five  Nations, 
■which  form  so  conspicuous  a  figure  in  the  history  of 
this  state,  ar  1  whose  power  and  influence,  at  the  time 
of  the  settlement  of  New- York  and  New-England, 
were  extended  far  and  wide. 

A  mile  east  of  Oneida  Creek,  and  by  the  road  side, 
is  the  ancient 

COUNCIL  GROVE, 

Wher<^  all  the  public  business  of  the  nation  has  been, 
for  many  years,  transacted.  It  is  formed  of  27  fine  but- 
ternut-trees, which,  in  the  summer  season,  from  a  little 
distance,  presents  a  beautiful  and  regular  mass  of  ver- 
dure. Towards  the  south-east  from  this  place  is  seen 
the  Episcopal  church,  a  building  recently  erected  for 
the  use  of  the  Indians.  Great  numbers  of  the  white  per- 
sons from  the  neighbourhood  also  attend  service  at  this 
house,  as  well  as  in  the  other  church,  which  is  supplied 
wi^h  preachers  by  the  Foreign  Missionary  Society. 


:\ 


KU«iJllLliTO\V  A    AM)    i\£\V-6 1'OCKHlUDUi:.        (it 


I  the  Mo- 

the  centre 
hree  rows 
le. 

as  opened 
ims  were 
en.     (See 


act  of  re- 
e  Oneida 
of  the  In- 
erly  forti- 
r  ideas  of 
tached  to 
h  we  have 

e  Nations, 
history  of 
t  the  time 
England, 

road  side. 


has  been, 
7  fine  but- 
>m  a  little 
ss  of  ver- 
Ice  is  seen 
ected  for 
bite  per- 
ce  at  this 
supplied 
>ciet7. 


In  the  scatterinjr  village  about  half  a  mile  beyond, 
there  are  several  decent  and  comfortable  frame  house.s 
inhabited  by  Indian  families,  whose  habits  have  risen 
to  a  higher  j^rade  than  inosl  of  the  nation,  although 
many  ot  ihem  are  gradually  improvinj>,  by  betaking 
themselves  to  agriculture. 

A  considerable  jiortion  of  the  tribe  have  recently 
I'emoved  to  Green  BdV. 

Schools  among  the  Indians  are  encouraged  by  the 
general  government  of  the  U.  S.  In  the  whole  coun- 
try there  are  42  schools  in  different  tribes,  with  1291 
pupils,  and  121  teachers.  The  annual  cost  to  the  U. 
States  is  g7000. 

The  scholars  are  taught  the  rudiments  of  learning 
under  a  master  and  mistress,  and  also  the  useful  arts. 

The  Oneida  nation  were  idolaters  until  within  a 
short  time ;  but  a  few  years  ago  the  nation  renounced 
their  ancient  superstitious  rites,  and  declared  in  favour 
of  Christianity. 

BROTHERTOWN  AND  NEVV-STOCKBRIDGE 

Are  two  villages,  a  few  miles  south-easterly  from 
here,  situated  on  part  of  the  old  Oneida  reservation, 
but  granted  to  some  of  their  scattered  Indian  brethren 
from  Pennsylvania  and  New-England.  New-Stock- 
bridge,  until  recently,  was  the  residence  of  the  Stock- 
bridge  tribe,  who  came  by  an  invitation  trom  the 
Oneidas  some  years  ago.  They  had  Christian  minis- 
ters among  them  long  before  they  removed  from 
Stockbrid^e  in  Massachusetts. 

Most  ot  them  now  reside  at  Green  Bay,  on  land 
given  them  by  the  Menofinnies,  a  nation  with  whom 
they  are  on  the  most  frienfiiy  ft:rms  ;  and  are  adopting" 
to  a  good  extent,  the  arts  of  civilized  life.  They  have 
invite-l  the  O/ieidas  to  join  them. 

Manlius  Centre.  50  yrirds  from  the  canal  nnd  two 
miles  east  of  Manlius  Centre,  i.s  a  curious  spring,  from 
^vhich  sulphuretted  hydrogen  ri^es,  and  is  inllammab!'^. 


MK 


ItOLTi:    TO    AlAtlAUA. 


.SYRACUSE. 

'1  iiiri  place  is  no  \c^h  remarkable  lor  the  raui(iit}r  oi 
lis  {growth,  than  lor  the  peculiar  advantaijes  of  its  situ- 
ation. The  great  Salt  Spring  is  only  a  mile  and  a  hali 
distant,  and  the  water  is  broui^^hl  in  hollow  logs  to  the 
salt  vats,  in  great  abundance,  and  at  a  very  trifling 
expense.  These  vats  will  be  seen  at  the  western  side 
of  the  village,  and  are  well  worthy  of  a  day's  delay, 
ns  well  as  the  works  at  Salina,  Liverpool  (6  miles 
distant),  and  Geddesburgh.  In  all  these  four  villages* 
about  500  acres,  in  1827,  were  supposed  to  be  covered 
with  vats,  for  solar  evaporation.  The  vats  are  large 
pans  made  of  wood,  three  or  four  inches  deep,  raised 
a  little  from  the  ground,  and  placed  in  long  ranges, 
with  a  very  gradual  descent,  to  permit  the  salt  water 
to  flow  slowly  along  from  one  end  to  the  other.  Each 
range  of  vats  is  supplied  by  a  hollow  log  placed  per- 
pendicularly in  the  ground  ;  and  the  constant  action  ot 
the  sun  evaporates  the  water,  and  leaves  the  salt  to  bf: 
deposited  in  small  cubical  crystals  at  the  bottom. 
The  water  is  at  first  a  little  thick,  but  gradually  deposites 
its  impurities;  and  the  lower  vats  always  show  a 
beautiful  white  crust,  like  the  purest  snow. 

Light  wooden  roofs  are  kept  ready  to  slide  over  the 
vats  when  the  weather  requires  it ;  and  the  salt  is  taken 
out  once  in  two  or  three  days,  to  be  deposited  in  the 
storehouses,  w^hich  are  built  at  regular  distances. 

Thence  it  is  easily  removed  to  the  canal,  and  then 
is  ready  for  transportation  to  any  part  of  the  country. 

In  1823,  there  were  about  100  houses,  and  the  number 
was  doubled  in  1824.  In  1825,  the  inhabitants 
amounted  to  1000  ;  and  those  of  the  township  to  3025. 
There  were  then  three  churches  in  the  village  ;  and 
736,632  bushels  of  salt  were  manufactured  here  in  that 
year.  In  1827,  the  salt  vats  covered  one  hundred  and 
«ixty  acres,  and  co«t  the  companies  engaged,  JftlSO.OOO. 


! 


s  rSLUid'ity  ot 
sor  its  situ-^ 
a  and  a  halt' 

logs  to  the 
^ery  triflino; 
vestern  side 
ay's  delay, 
ol  (6  miles 
)ur  villages, 

be  covered 
s  are  largo 
leep,  raised 
3ng  ranges, 
?  salt  water 
her.  Each 
placed  per- 
nt  action  of 
le  salt  to  be: 
le  bottom, 
lydeposites 
ys  show  a 

• 

le  over  the 
salt  is  taken 
?ited  in  the 
mces. 

i,  and  then 
le  country, 
the  number 
inhabitants 
ip  to  3025. 
Ilage  ;  and 
lere  in  that 
indred  and 
.  .ffi  120.00.0. 


*. 


I 


■iiiJ: 


.>AMi.\A    sAlil     WUlilvS. 


Cil> 


LiKlti  sm;ii  (:in:oui'niijiM^  pros-pccl-,  the  viii.'i^c  has 
Mcquiic'd  its  suddLti  growth  and  irupmtance  ;  laig^c 
blocks  ot"  stores  have  oeeii  built  on  both  sides  of  the 
can.'il,  two  or  three  lari^e  inns  and  stage  houses  are 
ready  for  the  accommodation  of  travellers,  and  aji^ood 
deal  of  trade  is  carried  on  in  tlie  plac(^  Improvements 
are  still  goin^  on  rapidly,  and  it  is  dilTicult  to  foretell 
where  they  will  stop.  Almost  3500  bushels  of  salt 
are  made  liere  in  a  year. 

The  Oswego  Canal,  was  opened  in  July,  1828, 
leaves  the  Erie  canal  at  this  place,  and  affords  a  direct 
communication  with  Lake  Ontario.  A  lake  ship  canal 
might  be  made  at  a  small  additional  expense.  The 
bank  is  used  as  a  tow  path  a  consideratle  distance. 
The  shores  rise  gradually  to  a  height  of  100  feet,  with 
few  inhabitants  and  little  cultivation.  The  locks  Uiid 
other  works  are  of  the  best  description,  and  very  ad- 
mirable workmanship.  A  barrel  of  flour  will  go  for 
six  cents  less,  by  the  lake  and  this  canal,  from  Ro- 
chester to  Salina.  It  is  38  miles  long.  Half  that  dis- 
tance it  is  constructed  along  the  bank  of  the  river  of 
the  same  name,  connected  with  it  by  locks,  i^nd  the  other 
half  is  slack-water  navigation  in  the  river.  It  has  22 
bridges,  7  culverts,  1  aqueduct,  2  w^aste  weirs,  8  dams 
across  the  river,  13  locks  of  stone  and  1  of  stone  and 
timber,  with  an  aggregate  lift  of  123  (cet. 

By  a  recent  survey,  a  canal  from  Syracuse  through 
Homer  to  Binghampion,  on  the  Susquehannah,  has  been 
pronounced  practicable.  Syracuse  Weigh-Lock.  (See 
p.  52.) 

SALINA 

Is  situated  a  mile  and  a  half  north  from  this  place* 
and  should  not  be  passed  by  unnoticed.  A  small  but 
convenient  little  packet  boat  is  continually  plying 
between  the  two  places,  drawn  by  a  single  horse,  and 
passes  by  mgny  salt  manufactories,  built  on  both  side?? 
nf  (Itp.  canal.     The  mode  of  evaporation  generallv 


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23  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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ttOLTii    TO    .\LVGAU.\, 


adopted  here,  is  that  of  boiling  ;  and  a  brieY  desci  iniion 
will  convey  a  clear  idea  of  the  process.  Each  buildins; 
contains  sixteen  or  eighteen  large  iron  kettles,  of  120 
gallons  each,  which  are  placed  in  two  rows,  forming 
what  is  called  "  a  block.  They  stand  about  three 
feet  higher  than  the  floor  ;  and  under  them  is  a  large 
furnace,  which  is  heated  with  pine  wood,  and  ret^uires 
constant  attention  to  keep  the  water  always  boiling. 
The  water  is  drawn  from  a  large  reservoir  at  one  end 
of  the  building,  after  having  been  allowed  to  ^^tand 
awhile  and  deposite  the  impurities  it  has  brought  along 
with  it.  A  hollow  log,  with  a  pump  at  one  end,  and 
furnished  with  openings  against  the  kettles,  is  the  only 
machine  used  in  filling  them.  The  first  deposite  made 
by  the  water  after  the  boiling  commences,  is  a  com- 
pound of  several  substances,  and  is  thrown  away, 
under  the  name  of  "  Bittern ;"  but  the  pure  white  salt, 
which  soon  after  makes  its  appearance,  is  carefully 
removed,  and  placed  in  a  store-room  just  at  handf, 
ready  for  barrelling  and  the  market. 

Each  manufactory  yields  about  40  bushels  a  day, 
and  the  different  buildings  cost  about  half  a  million. 

There  are  two  lai^e  manufactories  here,  where  salt 
is  made  in  reservoirs  of  an  immense  size,  and  evapo- 
rated by  hot  air  passing  through  them  in  large  pipe?. 
The  reservoir  of  the  principal  one  contains  no  less  than 
40,000  gallons.  The  pipe  is  supplied  with  heat  by  a 
furnace  below,  and  the  salt  is  formed  in  large  looso 
massi?,  resembling  half-thawed  ice.  The  crystali- 
zation  also  is  different  from  that  produced  by  the  other 
modes,  at  least  in  secondary  forms. 

The  village  of  Salina  is  of  considerable  size  and  a 
flourishing  appearance,  considering  the  shortness  of 
the  time  since  it  began  to  be  built,  and  the  serious 
obstacles  it  has  had  to  encounter  in  the  unhealthiness 
of  its  situation.  In  1025,  it  contained  1000  inhabitants  ; 
the  village  of  Geddes,  520  ;  and  Liverpool,  375.  The* 
extensive  marshes  which  bound  it  on  the  west  are  ex- 
tremely rmwholpsome  during  the  wnrmor  «ca«ons  af 


bALINA   SALT    WOKKS. 


:ciinlion 
buildins; 
i,  of  120 
formine; 
ut  three 
5  a  large 
req^uires 
boiling, 
one  end 
to  ^^tand 
jht  along 
end,  and 
the  only- 
lite  made 
s  a  coon- 
n   away, 
?hite  salt, 
carefully 
at  hand, 

Is  a  day, 

nillion. 

'here  salt 

d  evapo- 

re  pipe?. 

less  than 

leat  by  a 

ge  loose 

crystal!- 

he  other 

ze  and  a 
rtness  of 
serious 
allhiness 
abitants  ; 
5.  The 
it  are  cx- 


the  year,  and  the  whole  neighbourhood  is  more  or  less 
infected  with  the  fever  and  ague :  that  terrible  scourge, 
which  has  retarded  so  much  the  settlement  of  many 
parts  of  this  western  country.  Since  the  marshes  have 
been  partially  cleared  and  drained,  the  disease  has 
been  greatly  diminished ;  and  it  is  hoped  that  time 
and  industry  will  reduce  its  ravages  still  further,  if  not 
entirely  eradicate  it. 

The  branch  canal  which  runs  through  this  village, 
is  applied  to  other  valuable  purposes  besides  those  of 
transportation.  A  sluice  which  draws  off  a  portion  of 
the  water  towards  the  marshes  and  the  lake,  is  made 
10  turn  several  mill-wheels  in  its  course.  A  forcing 
pump  raises  the  water  of  the  salt  spring  destined  to 
aupply  the  manufactories  here  and  at  S5Tacuse  ;  and  a 
large  open  frame  building  shows  the  spot  from  which 
all  the  kettles  and  the  pans  of  both  these  places  derive 
their  supplies  :  that  for  the  latter  being  elevated  to  the 
height  of  70  feet,  and  the  pump  being  able  to  raise 
120,000  gallons  in  24  hours. 

The  Salt  Spring  itself  will  be  viev/ed  as  a  curiosity, 
but  in  its  present  state  presents  no  very  remarkable  ap- 
pearance, as  there  is  little  commotion  visible  on  the 
surface,  and  the  source  would  seem  by  no  means  equal  to 
the  great  draughts  which  are  continually  made  upon  it. 

The  Lake  will  be  seen  at  the  distance  of  about  a 
mile.  It  is  six  miles  long  and  two  broad,  and  must 
receive  a  considerable  quantity  of  salt  water  from  the 
draining  of  the  marshes,  as  its  banks  are  covered  with 
saline  plants.  The  valley  is  surrounded  by  limestone 
hills,  with  petrifactions ;  and  gypsum  is  found  in  great 
quantities. 

"  The  American  Salt  Formation,^'*  says  Dr.  Van  Rens- 
selaer in  his  *  Essay,'  "  extends  over  the  continent  from 
the  AUeghanies  to  the  Pacific,  between  31°  and  45^ 
N.  lat.  In  this  immense  tract,  rock  salt  has  be<iU 
occasionally  found  ;  but  its  locality  is  more  generally 
pointed  out  by  brine  springs."  The  salt  springs  in 
jh|o  state  are  in  the  counties  of  Onondaga,  Cayuga 


7^ 


KOLTE    TO   KIAOAKA. 


.Seneca,  Ontario,  Niagara,  Genesee,  Tompkius. 
Wayne,  and  Oneida  ;  but  this  is  the  most  valuable  oq 
vnrious  accounts.  In  1 828  there  were  1 ,1 60,888  bushels 
inspected ;  and  in  1829, 1,291,820  bushels,  showing  an 
increase  of  130,932  bushels. 

Of  this,  745,741  bushels  were  inspected  at  Salina, 
229,317  at  Syracuse,  187,640  at  Liverpool,  and  129,222 
at  Geddes. 

The  number  of  manufactories  was  increased  during 
the  past  year,  notwithstanding  the  reduction  in  the 
price  of  salt ;  and  the  quality  of  the  brine  has  been 
improved  and  the  quantity  increased  by  means  of 
perforations  into  the  earth,  to  the  depth  of  about  sixty 
teet,  so  that  the  assurance  is  given  of  a  supply  to  the 
utmost  that  will  probably  ever  become  necessary. 

FROM  SYRACUSE  TO  ROCHESTER. 

As  the  traveller  is  supposed  to  go  to  Rochester  by 
the  canal,  the  description  of  places  en  the  Turnpike 
is  omitted  until  we  reach  that  part  of  the  country  on 
the  return  from  Buffalo. 

By  the  canal,  99  tmtes.  Weed's  Basin  26  m. — A 
<:oaai  to  Auburn,  8  miles  for  SQ  cents.  11m.  Mon- 
tezuma Salt  Works.  Here  begin  the  Cayuga  Marshes. 
The  canal  across  the  marshes  was  constructed  at  a  va&t 
expense.  35  m.  Palmyra.  Coach  to  Canandaigua? 
13  m.  for  75  cents.  The  Great  Embankment  at 
Victor,  72  feet  high,  extending  2  miles. 

AnHqmties.  In  the  towns  of  Onondaga,  Camillus, 
and  Pompey,  are  the  remains  of  ancient  villages  and 
forts,  of  which  a  description  will  be  found  in  Yates 
afld  Moulton's  new  Histoiy  of  the  State,  vd.  i.  p.  13. 
In  Pompey  the  form  of  a  triangular  enclosure  is  visible, 
vith  the  remains  of  something  like  circular  or  ellip- 
tKal  forts  at  the  corners,  8  miles  apart,  the  whole 
including  more  than  500  acres.  De  Witt  Clinton, 
lat«  Governor  of  this  state,  in  his  memoir,  i^ad  in  1817, 
before  the  Lit.  a-nd  Phil.  Society,  think?  the  place  wofc 


Toinpkiuf. 
raluaole  od 
888  bushels 
showing  ao 

at  Salina, 
ind  129,222 

is^  during 
iion  in  the 
e  has  been 
means  of 
about  sixty 
pply  to  the 
lessary. 

TER. 

►Chester  by 

Turnpike 

country  on 

26  m.— A 
m.  Mon- 
a  Marshes, 
at  a  vast 
landaiguA; 
ikment  at 

Camillus, 
lages  and 

in  Yates 
.  i.  p.  13. 
is  visible, 

or  ellip- 
e  whole 

Clinton, 
din  1817, 

lace  wafc 


KOCIIKSTLU. 


Vo 


stormed  on  the  north  line.    !See  also  North  American 
Review. 

In  Camillus  is  an  elliptical  fort  on  a  high  hill,  three 
acres  in  extent,  with  a  covered  way,  10  rods  long,  to  a 
spring  on  the  west,  and  a  gate  towards  the  east.  An- 
other is  on  a  less  elevation  half  a  mile  off,  and  half  as 
large.  Sculls,  potteir,  and  bits  of  brick  used  to  be 
picked  up  in  these  places.  (There  is  a  bed  of  Coal 
in  Onondaga.) 


^i*. 


'A'' 


5^ 


\ 


ROCHESTER 

Is  the  largest  and  most  flourishing  place  in  this  part 
of  the  state,  being  indeed  the  fourth  in  the  state  in 
point  of  numbers,  the  township  containing,  in  1827, 
10,818.  It  has  several  good  inns,  one  of  the  best  of 
which  is  the  "  Coffee  House,"  near  the  canal  bridge. 
It  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Genesee  river,  at 
the  upper  fails,  v  'lere  it  is  crossed  by  the  canal ;  and 
enjoys  the  finest  advantages  for  water-mills  of  all 
kinds,  from  the  convenient  and  abundant  supply  ob- 
tained from  the  falls.  Sta^e  Coaches  go  hence,  aaily, 
to  Buffalo  through  Batavia ;  three  daily  to  Canan- 
daigua ;  one  daily  to  Niagara  falls  by  Lockport  and 
Lewiston,  &c.  &c. 

Rochester  was  first  surveyed  into  lots  in  the  year 
1811,  the  first  settlement  made  in  1812,  and  it  was  not 
until  the  latter  part  of  the  year  1814,  that  any  consider^ 
able  addition  was  made  to  the  number  of  inhabitants. 
In  September,  1818,  the  village  contained  1049  inhabit- 
ants; in  August,  1820,  1502;  in  September,  1822, 
3130,  (which  included  labourers  on  the  public  works  ; 
the  permanent  population  at  that  time  was  estimated 
at  about  2700)  .  In  1824,  4274 ;  in  1825,  5271 ;  and 
in  1827,  10,818. 

There  are  some  fine  dwellings,  an  arcade,  a  court 
house,  jail,  market,  13  large  flour  mills  of  stone,  which 
can  make  342,000  barrels  of  flour  annually.  There 
are  52  run  of  stones  in  all.    About  9  million  feet  of 

G  2 


I 


14 


JlOLTJi:   'JO   XIAG-AKA. 


lumbei  are  sawed  here  in  a  year;  and  o  miiiiuu^ 
brought  down  the  river.  There  is  a  coUon  factory, 
with  1400  spindles  and  30  power  looms,  and  a  woollen 
factory  ;  three  bridges  over  the  Genesee,  8  canal 
baains,  two  dry  docLs,  itc.  The  Broadway  bii'ige, 
600  feet  long,  is  a  few  yards  above  the  aqueduct. 

There  is  an  eye  and  ear  infiroiary,  a  bai»k,  a  High 
School,  and  6  nneeting-houses  tor  Episcopalians,  Pfes- 
byterians,  Methodists,  Friends,  and  Catholics. 

The  water  power  belonging  to  this  village  and  the 
vicinity  is  equal  to  the  power  of  38,400  horses ;  or, 
1,920  steam  engines  of  20  horse  power  each.  There- 
fore the  water  power  is  worth  (computing  the  cost  of 
such  engines,  as  in  England,  at  $8,880  each  ;  and  the 
annual  expense  of  working  at  222  dollars  for  each 
horse  power^)  almost  ten  millions  annually*  Only  a 
.*^mall  part  of  it  is  j'et  used.  The  whole  river  supf|iie& 
20,000  cubic  feet  a  minute  ;  and  the  combined  height 
of  the  falls  at  Rochester  and  Carthage  is  about  280 
feet.  A  fall  of  12^  cubic  feet  of  water  in  a  minute,  20 
feet  is  equal  to  the  power  of  one  horse. 

The  proposed  canal  from  Genesee  river  to  Glean  on 
the  Allfigban^,  would  be  about  110  miks  lonff,  and 
cost,  as  is  estimated,  about  $1,320,000.  It  would  open 
a  valuable  trade  with  the  upper  valley  of  the  Oliio, 
and  jmuch  increase  the  value  of  the  land. 

The  AqttediKt  over  the  Genesee  is  one  of  the  finest 
works  on  the  course  of  the  canal,  and  is  no  less  remark- 
able for  its  usefulness  thaii  for  its  architectural  beauty 
and  sirength.  It  is  borne  across  the  river's  channel, 
on  ten  arches  of  hewn  stone.  The  river  dashes  rapidly 
along  beneath,  while  boats,  with  goods  and  passengers, 
glide  safely  above. 

A  feeder  enters  tlie  canal  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  where  sluices  are  also  constructed  for  the  supply 
of  the  numerous  manufactories  built  on  the  bank.  All 
that  ipart  of  the  canal  west  from  Rochester,  is  supplied 
with  water  from  the  Tonawanta  cjfeek.  Otli^r  sluices 
are  bIfo  dusf  on  the  w€?t  f^ide,  where  manv  ot^fer  mills 


CAUXUACtK; 


;^ 


aiiiioua 

iactory, 

iroollen 

canal 

ct. 

a  Higli 
5,  Pres- 

md  the 
es;  or, 
There- 
cost  ot" 
cind  the 
T  each 
Only  a 
upplies 
i  height 
)ut  280 
aute,  20 

^lean  oh 
ne,  and 
Id  open 
Ohio, 

e  finest 
emark- 
)eautY 
lannel, 
rapidly 
eogers, 

of  the 

SU1 


k."  All 
ipplied 
sluipes 

^r  millij 


au>  lo  be  seen.  The  streets  of  the  town  arc  hand" 
someiy  and  rej^nlarly  laid  out,  and  several  of  them  are 
very  well  bu^lt  with  store  and  dweUing-houiies  of 
brick  and  stone,  and  well  flagii^ed  on  the  side-watks. 

Fails.  There  is  a  fail  in  the  Genesee  of  abovt  90 
feet,  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  town,  another 
near  it  ;*  and  a  fine  one  at  Cartilage,  which,  wiiti  the 
trd}r  impressive  scenery  of  the  banks,  is  worthy  of 
particular  attention.  To  vary  the  ride,  it  is  recom- 
jnended  to  ihe  stranger  to  go  down  on  one  side  of  the 
viver,  and  after  viewing  the  cataract,  cross  the  brklge 
a  IktJe  above,  and  return  on  the  other. 

The  Lakt  Ontario  Steamboat  touches  at  Port  Cc- 
ncsee,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  on  its  way  to  Nuigartt 
and  to  Ogdensburgh — the  route  to  Monireetl, 

Cartiut^,  The  fall  iiere  is  very  sudden,  tfaoiigh 
not  in  a  single  precipice.  The  descent  is  7iG  fe(4^iti  a 
tew  yards  Tne  cataract  has  evidently  been  reliring 
for  ages,  as  the  deep  gulf  below  the  falls,  with  its  high, 
perpendicular  and  ragged  banks,  is  sufficient  testimoii^ ; 
and  the  seclusion  of  (he  place,  the  solemn  and  sublime 
effect  of  the  scenery,  reuoubled  by  the  roaring  of  the 
cataract,  combine  to  render  it  one  of  the  most  unptei' 
five  scenes  in  this  part  of  the  country.  The  precipices 
are  walls  of  secondary  rocks,  presenting  their  natural 
stratification,  and  descending  from  the  surrouniJing- 
level,  to  a  depth  of  about  two  hundred  feet.  A  singular 
vein  of  whitish  «tone  will  be  observed,  cutthfig  them 
horizontally,  and  disappearing  at  the  brink  of  the  faHs, 
V  'hich  it  has  kept  at  then*  present  position :  its  superior 
hardness,  evidently  resistmg  the  action  of  the  water 
for  a  muoh  Jonger  time  ;  and  probably  rendering  the 
descent  more  perpendicular  than  it  would  otherwise  be. 
The  rocks  are  overhung  with  thick  forest  trees,  which» 
in  some  places,  have  been  able  to  find  a  narrow  footing 
along  the  sides. 

One  of  the  boldest  single  fabrics  that  art  has  ever 

*  At  this  fall  the  noted  ienper,Sara  Patch,  met  his  death  in  1829.    Hft 

spriiu.?  from  u  f Mgo  n^'nr  rlrc  top,  aircl  wvor  mso  asain. 


hii 


HUtX:K     W     .>iAGA«A. 


i 


successfully  attempted  in  this  country,  now  shuws  a 
few  of  its  remains  in  this  place.  The  two  great  piles 
of  timber  which  stand  opposite  each  other  on  the 
narrow  level,  where  once  the  river  flowed,  are  the 
abutments  of  a  bridge  thrown  over  a  few  years  ago. 
It  was  400  feet  in  length,  and  250  above  the  water ; 
but  stood  only  a  short  time,  and  then  fell  with  a  tre- 
mendous crash,  by  its  own  weight.  Fortunately,  no 
person  was  crossing  it  at  the  time — a  lady  and  gentle- 
man  bad  just  before  passed,  and  safely  reached  the 
other  side. 

On  account  of  the  obstructions  at  the  falls,  navigation 
is  entirely  interrupted  here  ;  and  all  the  communication 
between  the  banks  of  the  Genesee,  as  well  as  the  canal, 
and  Lake  Ontario,  is  through  Carthage.  Merchandise 
is  raised  up  the  bank,  or  Towered  down,  by  means  of 
an  inclinea  plane,  very  steep,  where  the  descending 
weight  is  made  to  raise  a  lighter  one  by  its  superior 
gravity. 

This  obstacle  will  cause  a  great  deal  of  merchandise 
to  pass  through  the  Oswego  canal. 

RQAD  FROM  ROCHESTER  TO  NIAGARA 
FALLS,  87  miles. 


To  Carthage  Falls 

'   2 

To  Gaines 

8 

Parma 

9 

Oak  Orchard 

7 

Clarkson* 

7 

Cambria 

11 

Hartiand 

14 

Lewiston 

15 

Sandy  Creek 

7 

A     . 

Niagara  Falls 

>   1         •                                                       1                                                     At                         1 

7 

The  principal  objects  on  this  road  are,  the  Ridge, 
Lewiston,  on  Niagara  river,  and  the  Tuscarora  Village. 

*  HoUey  Village,  35  miles  west  of  Rochester,  is  12  miles  distant  from 
the  sulphuric  acid  spring  in  Byron.  Professor  Eaton  mentions  this  as 
the  only  known  instance  of  a  spring  containing  sulphuric  acid  in  the 
world,  with  the  exception  of  one  in  the  ancient  crater  of  Mount  Idienne 
in  Java.  The  editor  ot  the  Journal,  however,  mentions  another,  spoken 
of  by  Humboldt,  the  Riode  Vina«re,  or  Vinegar  river,  flowing  from  the 
extinct  volcano  of  Purace,  near  Popayan,  in  the  waters  of  which  fish 
will  not  live,  and  the  spray  of  which  irritates  and  i))flame;s  the  eyes  ot 
.tVavellerf* 


liCMJKrOAi'. 


n 


iihows  a 
;at  piles 
on  the 
are  the 
ars  a{^o. 
water ; 
h  a  tre- 
itely,  no 
i  gentle- 
bed  the 

vigation 
inicatioii 
le  canal, 
:handise 
neans  of 
)cending 
superior 

:handise 
JARA 


8 

7 

11 

16 

7 

t  Ridge, 
Village. 

stant  from 
ons  this  as 
cid  in  the 
nt  Idienue 
ler,  spoken 
ig  from  the 
tvhich  fisli 
he  eyes  of 


>iiagara  Villa^^i  will  be  seen  if  you  do  not  cross  into 
Canada  at  Lewiston ;  and  Qpeenstown  if  you  do. 
Lockport  should,  by  all  means,  be  visited. 

The  Ridge  is  a  remarkable  elevation,  of  little  height, 
and  for  the  most  part  veiy  narww,  extending  a  great 
part  of  the  distance  from  Rochester  to  Lewiston.  It 
IS  often  perfectly  level  for  several  miles,  and  affords  an 
admirable  foundation  for  the  rc^ad,  which  has,  in  conse- 
ouence,  been  laid  along  its  top.  The  manner  in  which 
this  singular  elevation  could  nave  been  made,  has  ex- 
cited the  speculations  of  many  curious  observers  of 
nature,  and  oeen  explained  in  different  ways.  Some 
have  imagined  that  the  ridge  was,  at  some  long  past 
period,  the  shore  of  Lake  Ontario^  and  was  thrown  up 
by  its  waves ;  but  it  is  extremely  difficult  to  understand 
how  the  waves  could  have  managed  to  barricade 
themselves  out  of  a  tract  of  country.  It  therefore 
5)eems  more  rational  to  adopt  another  theory  :  that  the 
lake  was  formerly  still  more  extensive  than  is  here 
supposed,  and  overflowed  the  land  some  distance 
southward  of  this  place,  when  a  current  might  easily 
have  produced  a  bar  parallel  to  the  shore,  which, 
when  left  dry,  might  present  the  form  of  the  ridge. 

The  ground  presents  a  slope  on  each  side  of  the 
path,  peculiarly  well  adapted  for  home  lots,  gardens, 
and  orchards ;  and  the  frequency  and  facility  ^  trans- 
portation eive  the  inhabitants  veiy  manifest  advantages. 
Some  well-built,  and  even  handsome,  houses  will  be 
observed,  which  are  still  few  indeed,  but  show  that  a 
good  style  has  actually  been  introduced. 

GtLsport,  6^  miles  east  of  Lockport,  derives  its  name 
from  the  carburetted  hj^drogen  gas  which  rises  in  the 
Ijasin  of  the  canal. 

LOCKPORT. 

This  is  one  of  the  interesting  places  on  llie  canal. 
Here  is  the  noblest  display  of  locks,  two  ranges,  made 
of  fine  hewn  ?tonp.  beins:  constructed  against  the  brow 


78 


ItULlJ;    XU    MAbAUA. 


ol  the  Mountuiu  Kid^r,  where  the  loaming  oi  titc 
waste  water,  the  noise  of  horns,  and  the  bustle  of  occu- 
pation excite  many  lively  feehngs.  Above  the  locks, 
the  Deep  Cut  ofiers  a  singular  passage  between  high 
walls  of  rocks. 

Lockport  is  one  of  the  most  advantageous  sites  for 
machinery  on  the  canal,  as  all  the  water  passes  down 
the  mountain  rid^e,  which  the  canal  requires,  for  an 
extent  of  135  miles ;  Tonawanta  creek  being  the  only 
feeder  from  Buffalo  to  the  Seneca  river.  It  is  brought 
down  by  passing  round  the  double  locks,  and  falls  55 
i'eet  into  a  large  natural  basin,  where  two  ranges  of 
overshot  wheels  may  be  built,  each  at  least  25  feet  in 
diameter.  A  little  water  is  suiiicient  to  turn  wheels 
of  this  description.  The  rocks  are  blasted  out  to  a 
depth  of  60  feet.  Within  a  few  years,  the  spot  has 
been  changed  frotn  a  wilderness  tr)  a  village  of  !2,300 
inhabitants.  It  is  65  miles  to  Rochester,  and  'Zl  to 
Buffalo. 

Minerals,  The  rocky  stratum  is  a  carbonate  oi 
lime,  containing  organic  remains;  encrinites,  enchro- 
cites,  ^c.  &c.  crystals  of  carb.  lime  ;  rhomboidal,  d(^- 
tooth  spar,  12  sided  ;  fluate  of  lime  ;  beautiful  crystals 
of  sulphate  of  lime  ;  sulph.  of  strontian ;  pyrites ; 
sulpburet  of  zinc  ;  sulphuret  of  lead.  Collections  ot* 
minerals  may  be  purchased  here.  The  Tuscarora 
reservation  is  an  oblong  tract  of  land  reaching  within  a 
mile  of  Lewiston.  They  emigrated  from  North  Caro- 
lina, near  the  beginning  of  the  last  century,  at  an  invi- 
tation from  the  Five  Nations,  and  were  admitted  on 
equal  terms  into  their  confederacy,  which  has  since 
received  the  name  of  the  ^x  Nations.  They  have 
had  a  clergyman  settled  among  them  for  many  years, 
and  Christianity  has  been  voluntarily  adopted  by  them. 
Their  village  has  some  handsome  and  well-cultivated 
t'arms,  and  a  house  built  for  public  worship. 


ot  Hit 
>f  occu- 
i  lucks, 
in  high 

sites  foi' 
s  down 
,  for  an 
;he  only 
hroughl 
falls  65 
n^es  of 
>  feet  ill 
wheels 
out  to  a 
pot  has 
)f  a,300 
d  27  to 

►nate  of 
enchro- 
ial,  dog- 
crystals 
pyrites ; 
tions  of 
tscarora 
within  a 
th  Caro- 
an  invi* 
itted  on 
as  since 
ey  have 
y  years, 
jy  them, 
ftivated 


».l.\v;i>»TnN.  71> 


HINTS   TO    JlIi:    IRAVKLLKU  AT 
LRWISTON. 

It  n  ill  be  the  infontfon  of  many  strangers  whoariive 
nt  Ihis  place,  to  devote  several  days  to  viewing  the 
Falls  of  Niagara,  the  battle  grounds  in  the  vicinity,  and 
perhaps  in  making  short  excursions  in  different  direc- 
tions. To  those  who  have  leisure,  such  a  course  may 
well  be  recommended  ;  and  it  may  almost  be  a  mattef 
of  indifference  whether  they  first  visit  the  American 
or  the  British  side.  The  public  accommodations  are 
excellent  at  both  places,  and  the  river  may  be  safely 
crossed  at  any  hour  of  the  day,  by  a  ferry,  at  tho 
expense  of  about  half  a  dollar,  including  the  transpor- 
tation of  luggage  down  and  up  the  steep  banks.  A 
staircase  is  erected  near  the  tails,  on  the  British  as 
well  as  the  American  side,  to  furnish  a  convenient 
mode  of  descending  to  the  foot  of  the  cataract,  where 
the  charge  is  25  cents  for  each  person.  During  the 
pleasant  seasons  of  the  ^'^ear,  both  places  are  the  resort 
of  grent  throngs  of  visiters.  Stage  coaches  also  pass 
up  and  down  on  both  sides  every  day  at  equal  rates. 

To  ««iich,  however,  as  have  but  a  short  time  to  spend 
in  this  neighbourhood,  it  may  be  strongly  recommended 
to  proceed  directly  to  the  British  side.  The  cataract 
on  that  side  is  higher,  broader,  more  unbroken,  and 
generally  acknowledgeil  to  be  the  noblest  part  of  the 
scene.  The  visiter  may  indeed  see  it  to  great  advan- 
tage from  Goat  Islond,  on  the  American  srde,  but  the 
view  from  Table  Rock  ought  by  no  means  to  be  neg- 
lected. The  finest  view  from  the  level  of  the  Water 
below  is  also  afforded  on  tiie  west  side. 


^ 


lALlii    Ot    MAUAli.X, 


THE   FALLS    OF   ISlAG^KA—from  die  Atnericau 

side. 

The  Hotels  are  large  buildings,  and  very  well  kept 
by  Mr.  Whitney,  and  conjmodious. 

The  height  of  the  fall  on  this  side  is  IBO  feet  per- 
peiitdicMlar,  but  somewhat  broken  in  several  places  by 
the  pix>jeciing  rocks.  It  extends  300  yards  to  a  rock 
which  interrupts  it  on  the  brow  of  the  precipice. 
A  narrow  sheet  appears  beyond  it,  and  then  comes 
Goat  Ishnd,  with  a  mural  precipice.  Between  this 
and  the  other  shore  is  the  Grrand  Crescent,  for  which 
see  a  few  pages  beyond.  There  is  a  bri(ke  to  the 
island,  vvhich  commands  many  fine  views  of  the  falls, 
it  rests  on  wooden  piers  sunk  with  stones. 

The  Staircase  conducts  safely  to  the  bottom  of  the 
precipice  ;  and  boats  may  row  up  near  to  the  cataract. 

7%e  ^nerer^s  Cave. — A  very  singular  cavern  was 
di^covei'ed,  in  1825,  about  half  a  mile  below  the  falls, 
which  is  reached  by  descending  the  old  Indian  ladder, 
a  steep  path-wa]r,  rendered  passable  by  roots,  rocks, 
&e.  The  cave  is  about  80  yards  below  the  ladder, 
'f  he  way  to  it  is  difficult ;  the  passage  is  barely  large 
enough  to  admit  a  man,  and  in  it  are  found  stalactites, 
and  specimens  of  something  that  seems  like  petrified 
moss  or  wood.  •  About  20  feet  above  is  a  beautiful 
spring,  issuing  from  a  rock,  in  a  singular  rr>cky^  posi" 
tion ;  and  there  is  another  cave  near  oy,  wLxh  is  also 
woythy  of  a  visit. 

About  two  miles  below  the  falld,  is  a  Mineral  Spring, 
said  to  contain  sulphuric  and  muriatic  acids,  lime,  and 
^iiaffnesia. 

There  is  a  ferry  at  Lewiston,  which  is  about  half  a 
mile  across ;  but  the  current  is  strong  on  this  side,  and 
the  eddy  sets  up  with  such  force  on  the  other,  that  a 
boat  moves  more  than  double  that  distance  in  going 
over.    The  passage  is  not  dapgerotis,  although  the 


liATTLK   or  UUEEXSTdWN. 


8f 


water  is  much  agitated  by  counter  currents  and 
changing  whirlpools  ;  for  the  ferrymen  are  taught  by 
their  experience  to  manage  the  boat  with  care,  and 
not  only  to  take  advantage  of  the  currents,  but  to  avoid 
all  the  rough  places,  rippi  ,  and  whirlpools.  The' 
banks  here  hav^s  akv appearance  very  wild  and  strikirig.* 

The  rocks  are  a  aark  red  sandstone,  with  thw 
strata  of  a  more  clayey  character  and  a  lighter  colblrt^/ 
occutring  every  few  feet. 

Queenstown,  on  the  Canada  side  of  the  river,  is  a^ 
small  town,  uninteresting  except  so  far  as  regards  its' 
natural  situation,  and  some  martial  events  of  which  it 
has  been  the  theatre. 

THE  BATTLE  OF  QUEENSTOWN. 

During  the  late  war  between  the  United  Statei:  and* 
Great   Britain,  in   1812,  while  Gen.  Van  Renssel&er 
was  stationed  at  Lewiston,  he  formed  the  bold  design' 
of  taking  Queenstown ;  and  in  spite  of  the  difficulty 
of  ascending  the  steep  banks,  and  the  fortifications 
which  had  been  thrown  up  for  its  defence,  before  day-' 
light  on  the  morning  of  October  13th,  he  embarked 
his  troops  at  the  ferry,  and  passed  over  the  river  under' 
cover  of  a  battery.    As  the  accessible  points  on  the^ 
coast  were  strictly  watched,  and  defended  by  batteries^ 
of  some  strength,  the  place  selected  for  the  attack  waal' 
the  lofty  and  precipitous  bank  just  above.    Two  or' 
three  small  batteries  had  been  erected  on  the  brow^; 
the  remains  of  which  are  still  visible;  but  this  did- 
not  discourage  the  undertaking.     The  landing  was 
effected,  and  in  spite  of  the  difficulty  of  the  ascent, 
the  heights  were  surmounted,  and  the  Americans  Com- 
menced a  brisk  action  on  the  summit.    Gen.  Brock, 
who  was  at  a  distance,  hearing  the  guns,  hastened  to* 
the  spot ;  but  under  a  tree  near  the  precipice  was 
killed  by  a  chance  shot.    The  Americans  remained  in 
possession  of  the  heights  a  few  hours,  but  were  tijen 
obliered  to  recross  the  river. 

H 


8S 


<A. 


FALLa    Ot>'    iSJtAi:.V«A. 


Tu£  Monume:*t  to  Gen£Raj<  BbocK 


Was  raised  by  the  British  government  in  the  year 
1824;  and  the  remains  of  Gen.Brock  and  Col.  McDo- 
nald, his  aid,  have  since  been  deposited  there.  Its 
height  is  126  feet ;  and  the  view  from  the  top  is  very 
fine  and  extensive,  the  base  being  350  feet  above  the 
river.  In  clear  weather,  the  eve  embraces  not  only 
the  river  below,  and  the  towns  of  Lewiston  and  Queens- 
town,  but  those  of  Newark  and  Fort  Niapra,  at  the 
entrance  of  Lake  Ontario,  York  harbour,  loungstown, 
part  of  the  route  of  the  VVelland  canal,  a  vast  level 
tract  of  country  covered  with  a  uniform  forest,  and  the 
horizon,  formed  by  the  distant  lake  itself. 

The  monument  is  built  of  a  coarse  gray  limestone, 
containing  enchrinites,  &c.  of  which  the  hill  is  formed, 
and  contains  some  shells  and  other  oi^rnic  remains. 
The  old  park  for  artillery,  and  the  marks  of  various 
works,  will  be  observea  in  different  parts  of  the 
beiehts. 

From  Queenst&wn  to  Niagara  Falls  is  seven  miles,, 
over  a  level,  sandy  road. 

The  country  between  Niagara  and  York,  U.  C,  is 
considered  the  most  beautiful,  most  fertile,  and  best 
cultivated  part  of  the  province.  It  will  therefore  be 
worthy  of  the  traveller's  attention,  as  soon  as  the 
desired  improvencients  and  accommodations  shall  have 
been  introduced.  The  scenery  is  alternately  wild  and 
pleasing ;  and  the  rapid  progress  of  population,  the 
arts,  and  business  created  by  the  Welland  canal  and 
its  collateral  works,  which  promise  such  success,  v  'W 
soon  render  this  tract  of  country  a  favourite  part  of 
the  tour  of  the  northern  traveller.  A  free  navigation 
for  the  largest  vessels  used  here,  between  Lake  Erie 
and  Ontario,  must  produce  the  most  important  results. 
Manufactories  are  already  in  operation  in  different 
places;  and  the  inexhaustible  water  power  of  the 
canal  will  multiply  them  to  any  desirable  degree. 
40,000  or  SO.OOoIbs.  of  raw  wool  are  noAv  amjuallv 


lALLS    OF    ?^lACiARA. 


8:5 


le  year 
M*Do- 
•e.  Its 
is  veiy 
ove  the 
ol  only 
Jueens- 
f  at  the 
ofstown, 
st  level 
and  the 

lestone, 
formed, 
emains. 
various 
of  the 

1  mileSy 

J.  C.,is 
rid  best 
I  fore  be 

as  the 
ail  have 
v^ild  and 
ion,  the 
nal  and 
?ss,  V  ^11 

part  of 
vigation 
ke  Erie 

results, 
iifferent 

of  the 

degree. 
luuuaDv 


consumed  in  this  region  by  the  manufactured  of  narrow 
floth  and  satinetts;  and  most  of  the  paper  used  in 
Upper  Canada  is  made  at  Crook's  Mill,  in  West 
Flamborouffh. 

Ancient  Tumuli.  Near  Sir  P.  Maitland's  (four  miles 
from  Qiieenstown)  is  a  range  of  rising  ground,  which 
overlooks  the  country  and  lake  for  a  great  distance* 
Near  the  top  a  quantity  of  human  bones  were  recently 
discovered  by  the  blowing  down  of  an  old  tree.  A 
great  number  of  skeletons  were  found  on  digging,  with 
Indian  beads,  pipes,  &c.  and  some  conch-shells,  shaped 
apparently  for  musical  instruments,  placed  under  seve- 
ral of  the  heads.  Other  perforated  shells  were  found, 
such  as  are  said  to  be  known  only  on  the  western  coast 
of  the  continent,  within  the  tropics.  There  were  also 
found  brass  or  copper  utensils,  &c.  and  the  ground 
looks  as  if  it  had  been  defended  with  a  palisade. 

The  Whirlpool,  sometimes  called  the  Devil's  Hole, 
cannot  be  seen  without  leaving  the  road  and  going  to 
the  bank.  The  rocks  are  about  260  feet  above  the 
water ;  thej  brm  a  deep  basin,  and  the  water  is  ex* 
tremely  agitated. 

A  leisurely  walk  the  whole  distance,  near  the  rivers 
may  please  the  admirer  of  nature ;  as  the  high  and 
rocKy  cliffs  which  form  the  banks  on  both  sides  pre- 
sent a  continued  succession  of  striking  scenes. 

Although  the  surface  of  the  ground  frequently  indi- 
cates the  passage  of  water  in  some  long  past  period, 
the  whole  road  is  much  elevated  above  the  river,  and 
owing  to  this  circumstance  the  traveller  is  disappointed 
at  not  getting  a  sight  of  the  cataract  from  a  distance,  as 
it  remains  concealed  by  the  banks,  until  he  has  ap- 
proached very  near.  It  frequently  happens,  also,  that 
the  roar  of  the  cataract  is  not  perceived  before  reachinsp 
the  mn ;  for  the  intervening  bank  intercepts  the  sound 
so  much,  that  the  noise  of  the  wheels  is  sometimes 
sufficient  to  drown  it  entirely.  Yet,  strange  as  it  may 
appear,  the  inhabitants  declare,  that  at  the  same  time 
it  may  very  probably  be  heard  on  the  shore  of  Lake 
Ontario. 


84 


FALLS   OF    XIAGAILV. 


THE  PALLS  OF  NIAGARA-/rom  the  British  side. 

There  are  two  large  Inns  or  Hotels  on  the  Canadian 
side  of  the  river,  both  situated  as  near  the  fails  as 
could  be  desired.  That  kept  by  Mr.  Forsyth  stands 
on  what  ought  strictly  to  be  called  the  upper  bank^  for 
that  elevation  appears  to  have  once  fornoed  the  river's 
shore.  This  is  the  larger  house ;  the  galleries  and 
windows  in  the  rear  command  a  fine  view  of  the 
cataract,  although  not  an  entire  one,  and  overlook  the 
rapids  and  river  for  several  miles  above.  The  other 
house  is  also  commodious,  and  commands  the  same 
scene  from  a  different  point  of  view. 

Following  a  footpath  through  the  pasture  behind 
Forsyth's,  the  stranger  soon  finds  himself  on  the  steep 
brow  of  the  second  bank,  and  the  mighty  cataract  of 
Niagara  suddenly  opens  beneath  him.  A  path  leads 
away  to  the  left,  down  the  bank,  to  the  verge  of  the 
cataract ;  and  another  to  the  right,  which  offers  a 
drier  walk,  and  presents  a  more  agreeable  and  varied 
scene. 

The  surface  of  the  rocks  is  so  perfectly  flat  near  the 
falls,  and  the  water  descends  so  considerably  over  the 
rapids  just  before  it  reaches  the  precipice,  that  it  seems 
a  wonder  that  the  place  where  you  stand  is  not  over- 
flown. Probably  the  water  is  restrained  only  by  the 
direction  of  the  current,  as  a  little  lateral  pressure 
■would  f)e  sufticient  to  flood  the  elevated  level  beside 
it,  where,  there  can  be  no  question,  the  course  of  tlie 
Tiver  once  lay. 

Table  Rock  is  a  projection  a  few  yards  from  the 
cataract,  which  commands  a  fine  view  of  this  mag- 
nificent scene.  Indeed,  it  is  usually  considered  tJie 
finest  point  of  view.  The  height  ot  the  fall  on  this 
side  is  said  to  be  174  feet  perpendicular;  and  this 
height  the  vast  sheet  of  foam  preserves  unbroken, 
quite  round  the  Grand  Crescent,  a  distance,  it  is  esti- 
mated, of  700  yards.    Captain  Basil  Hall  and  Mvf 


FAXLS   OF   iN^IAGAKA. 


85 


tish  side* 

/anadian 
fails  as 
h  stands 
bank,  for 
,e  river's 
ries  and 
V  of  the 
look  the 
he  other 
be  same 

;  behind 
he  steep 
taract  of 
ath  leads 
re  of  the 
offers  a 
id  varied 

near  the 
over  the 
it  seems 
lot  over- 
f  by  the 
pressure 
1  beside 
ie  of  the 

om  the 
is  ma^- 
ered  the 
on  this 
and  this 
ibroken, 
t  is  esti- 
m\  Mr.- 


Thompson  measured  the  distance  from  Table  Rock  to 
Termination  Rock  in  1827,  and  found  it  to  be  163  feet. 
Goat  Island  divides  the  cataract,  and  just  beyond  it 
stands  an  isolated  rock.  The  fall  on  the  American 
side  is  neither  so  high,  so  wide,  nor  so  unbroken ;  yet, 
if  compared  with  any  thing  else  but  the  Crescent, 
would  be  regarded  with  eraotioas  of  unequalled 
sublimity.  The  breadth  is  900  feet,  the  height  160, 
and  about  two-thirds  the  distance  to  the  bottom  the 
sheet  is  broken  by  projecting  rocks.  A  bridge  built 
from  the  American  sicle  connects  Iris  or  Goat  Island 
and  the  main  land,  though  invisible  from  this  spot ;  and 
the  inn  on  the  same  side,  in  Niagara,  is  seen  a  little 
way  from  the  river.  The  Biddle  Staircase  was  con- 
structed from  Iris  Island  to  the  base  of  the  precioice 
below,  in  1829,  at  the  expense  of  Nicholas  Biadle 
Esq.  of  Philadelphia,  to  afford  a  new  point  of  view  to 
visiters,  which  is  ^eatly  admired.  The  construction 
of  this  staircase  is  said  to  have  opened  one  of  the 
fmest  fishing  places  in  this  part  of  the  Union.  The 
water  there  is  the  resort  of  numerous  fish  which  come 
up  from  Lake  Ontario  and  are  stopjped  b3r  the  falls. 
The  island  is  185  feet  above  the  gulf;  the  first 40  feet 
of  the  descent  is  by  stone  steps,  the  next  88  by  a 
spiral  wooden  staircase,  and  the  remaining  80  feet  by 
stone  steps,  in  three  directions. 

It  may  be  recommended  to  the  traveller  to  visit  this 
place  as  often  as  he  can,  and  to  view  it  from  every 
neighbouring  point ;  as  every  change  of  light  exhibits 
it  under  a  different  and  interesting  aspect.  The  rain- 
bows are  to  be  seen,  from  this  side,  only  in  the  after- 
noon ;  but  at  that  time  the  clouds  of  mist,  which  are 
continually  rising  from  the  gulf  below,  often  present 
them  in  the  utmost  beauty. 

Dr.  Dwight  gives  the  following  estimates,  in  his 
travels,  of  the  quantity  of  water  which  passes  the 
cataract  of  Niagara.  The  river  at  the  ferry  is  7  fur- 
longs wide,  and  on  an  average  25  feet  deep.    The 

current  probviblv  runs  sij^  miles  an  hour :  but  supposing 

H2 


m 


I'ALLS   OF   NIAUABA. 


n 

1 
t 

1 

1 

i 

I 

11 

it  to  be  only  5  miles,  the  quantity  thai  passes  the  la  lis 
in  an  hour,  is  more  than  85  millions  of  tons  avoirdupois ; 
if  we  suppose  it  to  be  6,  it  will  be  more  than  102 
millions ;  and  in  a  day  would  be  2400  millions  of  tons. 
The  noise,  it  b  said,  is  sometimes  heard  at  York,  50 
ipiles. 
A  carriage  road  has  been  lately  made  to  the  feny. 
« 

The  Rai'Ids 

begin  about  half  a  mile  above  the  cataract;  and, 
although  the  breadth  of  the  river  might  at  first  make 
them  appear  of  little  importance,  a  nearer  inspection 
will  convince  the  stranger  of  their  actual  size,  and  the 
terrific  danger  of  the  passage.  The  inhabitants  of 
the  neighbourhood  regard  it  as  certain  death  to  get 
once  involved  in  them ;  and  that  not  merely  because 
all  escape  from  the  cataract  would  be  hopeless,  but 
because  the  violent  force  of  the  water  among  the  rocks 
in  the  channel,  would  instantly  dash  the  bones  of  a  man 
in  pieces.  Instances  are  oi.  record  of  persons  being 
carried  down  by  the  stream  ;  but  no  one  is  known  to 
h^ve  ever  survived.  Indeed,  it  is  very  rare  that  the 
bodies  are  found ;  as  the  depth  of  the  gulf  below  the 
cataract,  and  the  tumultuous  agitation  of  the  eddies, 
whirlpools,  and  counter  currents,  render  it  difficult  lor 
any  thing  once  sunk  to  rise  again;  while  the  general 
course  oi  the  water  is  so  rapid,  that  it  is  soon  hurried 
far  down  the  stream.  The  large  logs  which  are 
brought  down  in  great  numbers  during  the  spring,  bear 
sufficient  testimony  to  these  remarks.  Wild  ducks, 
geese,  &c.  are  frequently  precipitated  over  the  cataract, 
^nd  generally  reappear  either  dead  or  with  their  legs 
or  vvings  broken.  Some  say  that  water  fowl  avoid  the 
place  when  able  to  escape,  but  that  the  ice  on  the 
shores  of  the  river  above  often  prevents  them  from 
obtaining  food,  and  that  they  are  carried  down  from 
mere  inability  to  fly ;  whilt  others  assert  that  they  are 
sometitQQS  seen  voluntarily  riding  among  the  rapids, 


he  la  lis 
dupois ; 
lan  102 
of  ton.s. 
fork,  50 

5  ferry. 


and, 
st  liiake 
spection 
and  the 
itants  of 
h  to  get 
because 
less,  but 
be  rocks 
of  a  man 
IS  being 
nowD  to 
that  the 
slow  the 
eddies, 
Qcult  ibr 
general 
Lurried 
ich   are 
ng,  bear 
ducks, 
cataract, 
eir  legs 
void  the 
on  the 
m  from 
ivn  from 
they  are 
rapids, 


7'rfff  JUiivv/'ii-fi 


:m A ( '. A.K  \- , y i\ ( oi  vr,.l^^  vy 


_x^ 


K-Vri3)ai    OF    iS'XAUAK^. 


\i 


^J 


and  alter  descending  half  way  down  the  cataract, 
taking  wing,  and  returning  to  repeat  their  dangerous 
amusement.  In  1828,  a  small  boat  passed  in  safety 
nn^oitg  the  islands  below  the  bridge  on  the  United 
State?  s^de;  but  in  October  of  that  vear,  two  men 
were  lost  in  a  boat  which  was  carriea  down  hy  the 
ice. 

The  most  sublime  scene  is  presented  to  the  observer 
when  he  views  the  dktaract  from  below  ;  and  there  he 
may  baT«  an  qpportunity  of  going  under  the  cataract. 
This  scene  i;^  represented  in  the  plate.  To  render 
the  descent  prccttcable,  a  spiral  staircase  has  been 
foripe4  a  little  way  from  Table  Rock,  supported  by  a 
tall  mast ;  and  the  stranger  descends^  without  fear, 
because  his  view  is  confined.  On  reaching  the  bottom » 
a  rough  path  among  the  rocks  winds  along  at  the  foot 
of  the  precipice,  dthough  tab  heaps  of  loose  stones 
which  nave  fallen  down,  keep  it  at  a  considerable 
height  above  the  water.  A  large  rock  lies  on  the 
very  brink  of  the  river,  about  15  feet  long  and  8  feet 
thick,  which  you  may  climb  up  by  means  of  a  ladder, 
and  enjoy  the  best  central  view  d  the  falls  any  where 
to  be  found.  This  rock  was  formerly  a  part  of  the 
projection  above,  and  fell,  about  seven  years  ago,  with 
a  tremendous  roar.  It  had  been  observed  by  Mr. 
Forsyth  to  be  in  a  very  precarious  situation,  the  day 
before,  and  he  had  warned  the  strangers  at  his  bouse 
not  to  venture  near  it.  A  lady  and  gentleman,  however, 
had  been  so  bold  as  to  take  their  stand  upon  it  near 
evening,  to  view  the  cataract ;  and  in  the  night  they 
heard  me  noise  of  its  fall,  which  shook  the  house  like 
an  earthquake.  A  large  piece  of  rock,  near  the  centre 
of  the  great  horseshoe  of  Niagara  Falls,  broke  off  in 
the  summer  of  18i^,and  fell  into  the  gulf  with  a  crash 
that  was  heard  several  miles  off: 

In  proceeding"  nearer  to  the  sheet  of  falling  water, 
the  path  leads  far  under  the  excavated  bank,  which  in 
one  place  forms  a  roof  that  oveiiiangs  about  40  feet. 
The  vast  column  of  water  continually  pouring  over  the 


88 


PALLS  OF   NIAGARA. 


precipice,  |)roduces  violenv  whirls  in  the  air ;  and  the 
spray  is  driven  out  with  such  force,  that  no  one  can 
approach  to  the  ed^e  of  the  cataract,  or  even  stand  a 
few  moments  near  it,  without  being  drenched  to  the 
skin.  It  is  also  veiy  H;«-M|t  to  breathe  there ;  so  that 
persons  with  weak  I  ._  would  act  prudently  to  con- 
tent themselves  with  a  distant  view,  and  by  no  means 
to  attempt  to  go  under  the  cataract.  Those  who  are 
desirous  of  exploring  this  tremendous  cavern,  should 
attend  very  carefully  to  their  steps,  and  not  allow 
themselves  to  be  agitated  by  the  sight  or  the  sound  of 
the  cataract,  or  to  be  blinded  by  the  strong  driving 
showers  in  which  they  will  be  continually  mvolved ; 
as  a  few  steps  would  plunge  them  into  the  tenible 
abyss  which  receives  the  failing  river. 

In  the  summer  of  1827,  a  scnooner,  called  the  Mi< 
chigan,  which  was  found  to  be  unfit  for  the  navigation 
of  Lake  Erie,  being  of  too  great  a  depth  of  water, 
was  towed  by  a  steamboat  to  the  end  of  Grand  Island, 
and  then  by  a  row  boat  under  the  command  of  Capt. 
Rough,  to  the  margin  of  the  rapids,  where  she  was 
abandoned  to  her  fate.  Thousands  of  persons  had 
assembled  to  witness  the  descent.  A  number  of  wild 
animals  had  been  inhumanly  placed  on  her  deck, 
confined,  to  pass  the  cataract  with  her.  She  passed 
the  first  fall  of  the  rapids  in  safety ;  but  struck  a  rock 
at  the  second,  and  lost  her  masts.  There  she  remained 
an  instant,  until  the  current  turned  her  round  and  bore 
her  away.  A  bear  here  leaped  overboard  and  swam 
to  the  shore.  The  vessel  soon  filled  and  sunk,  so  thai 
only  her  upper  works  were  afterward  visible.  She 
went  over  the  cataract  almost  without  being  seen,  and 
in  a  few  moments  the  basin  was  perceived  all  scat- 
tered with  her  fragments,  which  were  very  small.  A 
cat  and  a  goose  were  the  only  animals  found  alive - 
below.  In  October,  1829,  the  schooner  Superior  was 
towed  into  the  current  and  abandoned ;  but  she  struck 
on  a  rock  about  the  middle  of  the  river,  and  there  re* 
mained.   The  notable  jumper,  Sam  Patch*  leaped,  the 


HATTLi:    OF   OllUTEWA. 


a'j 


ibllowinff  day,  from  a  ladder,  125  feet  high,  into  tho 
g^lf,  and  escaped  unhurt. 

TiiK  Burning  Spring. 

About  half  a  mile  above  the  falls,  and  within  a  few 
feet  of  the  rapids  in  Niagara  river,  is  a  remarkable 
Burning  Spring.  A  house  has  been  erected  over  it, 
into  which  admission  is  obtained  for  a  shilling.  The 
water,  which  is  warm,  turbid,  and  surchaiiged  with 
sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas,  rises  in  a  barrel  which  has 
been  placed  in  the  ground,  and  is  constantly  in  a  state 
of  ebullition.  The  barrel  is  covered,  and  the  gas 
escapes  only  through  a  copper  tube.  On  brlngii^  a 
candle  withm  a  little  distance  of  it,  the  gas  takes  ore, 
and  continues  to  burn  with  a  bright  flame  until  blown 
out.  By  leaving  the  house  closed  and  the  fire  extin- 
guished, the  whole  atmosphere  within  explodes  on 
ejiterip^  with  a  candle. 

While  on  the  Canada  side  of  the  falls,  the  visiter 
priay  vajy  his  time  very  agreeably,  by  visiting  the 
village  of  Chippewa  and  Lundy's  Lane,  in  this  vici- 
nity ;  which,  during  the  late  war  w'•^  Great  pritain. 
were  the  scenes  of  two  sharp  contest  >. 

The  Battle  of  Chippewa. 

In  July,  1814,  the  British  and  American  armies 
being  near  each  other,  Gen.  Ripley  ordered  Gen.  Scott 
to  make  an  advance  on  Chippewa,  on  the  3d  of  July, 
with  Capt.  Towson's  division  of  artillery ;  and  the 
enemy's  pickets  were  soon  forced  to  retire  across  the 
bridge.  Gen.  Ripley  'ame  up  in  the  afternoon  and 
encamped  with  Gen.  Scott's  advance. 

The  stranger  may  be  gratified  by  examining  the 
field  of  these  operations,  by  going  to  Chippewa  vil- 
lage, about  two  miles  above  Forsyth's.  The  Ameri- 
can encampment  of  July  23d  is  in  the  rear  of  a  tavern 
DPRT  the  road,  about  a  mile  beyond  Chippewa. 


90 


I  ALLS   or   !$IAUARA. 


On  the  5th,  after  some  sharp  shootinp^,  tbe  Indiana 
were  discovered  almost  in  the  rear  of  the  American 
camp.  At  this  moment,  Gen.  Porter  arrived  with  his 
volunteers  and  Indians.  Gren.  Brown  immediately 
directed  them  to  enter  the  woods  and  effectually  scour 
them.  Gens.  Brown,  Scott,  and  Ripley  were  at  the 
white  house,  in  advance,  reconnoitring:.  Gen.  Por- 
ter's corps  had  almost  debouched  from  the  woods 
opposite  Chippewa,  when  the  whole  British  force  had 
crossed  the  Chippewa  bridge,  and  Gen.  Scott  ad- 
vanced, and  Gen.  Riplej]  was  in  readiness  to  support. 
In  a  few  minutes,  the  British  line  was  discovered  formed 
and  rapidly  advancing;— their  right  (the  Royal  Scots) 
upon  the  woods,  and  tneir  left  (the  prince  regent's)  on 
the  river,  with  the  king's  own  for  their  reserve.  Their 
object  was  to  gain  the  bridge  across  the  creek  in  front 
ofthe  encampment,  which,  if  done,  would  have  com-* 
pelled  the  Americans  to  retire.  Gen.  Brown,  fearing 
a  flank  movement  of  the  enemy  through  the  woods  on 
the  lefl,  directed  Gen.  Riple^r  not  to  advance  until  he 
gave  him  orders.  Meanwhile,  Gen.  Scott,  under  a 
most  tremendous  fire  from  the  enemy's  artilleiy, 
crossed  the  bridge,  and  formed  his  line.  Tbe  British 
orders  were  to  give  one  volley  at  a  distance,  and  im- 
mediately charge.  But  such  was  the  warmth  of  our 
musketry  that  they  could  not  withstand  it.  At  this 
moment.  Gen.  Brown  sent  orders  to  Gen.  Ripley  to 
make  a  movement  through  the  woods  upon  the  ene- 
my's ri^ht  flank.  With  the  21st  regiment  he  passed  a 
ravine  in  his  front,  where  the  men  had  to  waae  up  to 
their  chins,  and  advanced  as  rapidly  as  possible.  But 
before  he  commenced  filing  from  the  woods  into  the 
open  land  under  the  enemy's  batteries,  they  had  been 
completely  broken  by  Gen.  Scott's  brigade,  and  threw 
themselves  across  the  Chippewa  bridge,  which  they 
broke  down. 

Although  the  Americans  were  not  able  to  cross  the 
ereek,  the  British  thought  proper  to  evacuate  Chippewa 
veiy'precipitatelv,  and  to  retreat  towards  QneenstoAvn; 


missj 
Nt 
25th 

Tb 


Th. 

action 

obscui 

accom 

ChysK 

my  ha 

Weliir 

encam 

Ameri< 

ning,  C 

attack  1 

junctioj 

in  an  h< 

ing  the 

havir^ 

began  t 
JF'orsytF] 
hft,      ^ 

The 
of  tbe 
ment,  a 

"The 
peninsu 
WeJJ 

two  hoi 
yards  o 
tijat  ofte 
The  mc 
dressed 
t-eption. 
driven  h 


ing 


lUi'iLl!:   iJi'    liUil>G£>VAiEii. 


»J 


itown: 


In  ihis  affair  the  British  loss,  in  killed,  wounded,  and 
inissinp,  was  514,  and  the  American  loss  328. 

Nothing  oi'  importance  occurred  after  this  until  the 
25th  of  the  same  month,  the  date  of 

Tnx  Battle  of  Bridobwater,  or  Lundy's 

Lane. 

The  principal  scene  of  this  hard-foueht  and  bloody 
action  is  about  a  mile  from  the  Falls  oi  Niag^ara,  at  an 
obscure  road,  called  Lundy's  Lane.  Comfortable 
accommodations  are  offered  there,  at  the  inn  of  Mr. 
Chysler.  Since  their  retreat  from  Chippewa,  the  ene- 
my had  received  reinforcements  of  troops  from  Lord 
Wellington's  arm^  in  Spain;  and  on  the  25th  of  July 
encamped  on  a  hill,  with  the  design  of  attacking  the 
American  camp  the  next  morning.  At  6  in  the  eve- 
jjing,  Gen.  Brown  ordered  Gen.  Scott  to  advance  and 
attack  them,  which  was  immediately  done ;  and  in  con- 
junction with  Gen.  Ripley  the  attack  was  commenced 
in  an  hour.  The  Brkisb  were  much  surprised  at  see- 
ing the  approach  of  their  enemy  at  this  hour,  not 
having  discovered  them  until  they  left  the  woods  and 
began  tu  march  across  the  open  level  fields  seen  from 
Forsyth's  Hotel,  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the 
left. 

The  following  letter,  written  by  a  surgeon  of  one 
of  the  American  regiments,  the  day  after  the  engage- 
ment, contains  some  interesting  particulars : 

*^Tbe  enemy  bad  collected  their  whole  force  in  the 
peninsula,  and  were  reinforced  by  troops  from  Lord 
vVellington's  army,  just  landed  from  Kingston.  For 
two  hours  the  two  hostile  lines  were  within  twenty 
yards  of  each  other,  and  so  frequently  intermingled!, 
tliat  often  an  officer  would  order  an  enemy's  platoon. 
The  moon  shone  bright ;  but  part  of  our  men  being 
dressed  like  the  Glengarian  regiment  caused  the  de- 
ception. They  frequently  charged,  and  were  as  often 
driven  back.  Gur  res^iment,  under  Colonel  Miller,  was 


!i^ 


(U> 


\) 


TALLei  or  AlAC^AKA. 


ordered  to  storm  the  British  batteiy . '  Wexhaiged,  and 
took  evert  piece  of  th6  enemy's  cannon.  We  kept  pos- 
session of  the  ground  and  cannon  until'  12  o'clock  at 
night,  when  we  all  felt  back  more  than  two  miles. 
This  was  done  to  secure  our  camp,  which  might 
otherwise  have  been  attacked  in  the  rear.  Our  horses 
being  most  of  them  killed,  and  there  being  no  ropes 
to  the  pieces,  we  got  off  but  two  or  three.  The  men 
were  so  excessively  fatigued  they  could  not  drag 
them:  We  lost  one  piece  of  cannon,  which  was  too 
much  advanced,  every  man  being  shot  that  had  charge 
of  it,  but  two.  Several  of  our  caissons  were  blown 
up  by  their  rockets,  which  did  some  injury,  and  de- 
prived our  cannon  of  ammunition.  The  lines  were 
so  netir  that  cannon  could  not  be  used  with  advantage." 
The  British  lost,  in  killed,  wounded,  and  prisoners^ 
878  ;  and  the  Americans  860. 

WELLAND  CANAL. 

It  Aiay  well  be  recommended  to  the  traveliev  to  de- 
vote a  Iktle  time  to  visiting  this  new,  important  and 
highly  interesting  work,  which  can  be  done  by  those 
who  have  a  short  time  to  spare.  Lake  vessels  are 
hereafter  to  go  up  the  Welland  or  Chippewa  river 
to  the  canal ;  and  the  visiter  at  Niagara  will  be  but 
about  8  or  10  miles  from  some  parts  of  it. 

As  it  may  be  presumed  that  a  traveller,  on  a  tour 
like  the  present,  will  of  course  lay  aside  all  private 
and  even  national  feelings,  sufficiently  to  admire  what 
is  great  in  the  enterprise  and  arts  of  a  neighbouring 
country,  a  specimen  of  human  skill  and  industry  like 
the  Welland  Canal  may  be  expected  to  interest  those 
into  whose  hands  this  little  volume  may  fall. 

The  improvement  of  Upper  Canada  has  had  to  en- 
counter great  obstacles  in  the  climate,  the  wildness  of 
the  countiy,  the  vicinity  of  a  land  under  a  different 
system  of  government,  the  lai^e  reserves  of  soil  for 
the  f?upport  of  the  clergy,  (one-seventh  of  the  whole,) 


and 


VVELLANi>   CAiVAL. 


yy 


and  a  general  want  of  intelligence  and  enterprise 
amoRg  the  inhabitants.  Some  of  these  have  been  al'- 
ready  in  a  considerable  degree  surmounted,  and  are 
likely  to  be  still  further  overcome,  by  the  encoura^- 
ments  oflSered  bjr  the  mother  country,  the  introd^tion 
of  seientilic  engineers  and  funds  by  the  Canada  Com- 
pany, and'  the  unexpected  facilities  afforded  to  schemes 
of  internal  improvement  by  the  natural  teatures  of  the 
province. 

The  obstacle  which  it  was  the  object  of  the  Wel- 
land  Canal  to  surmount,  is  of  a  character  that  gives 
3[reat  interest  to  the  work.  The  largest  cataract  in 
the  world,  which  presents  a  scene  of  confusion,  uproar, 
and  tumult,  that  sets  at  nought  all  the  rules  of  order 
and  restraint,  was  to  be  surmounted  by  a  system  of 
works  in  which  the  rush  of  the  element,  so  awful^  re- 
sistless, and  destructive,  was  to  be  curbed  and  tamed 
to  a  calm  and  gentle  descent,  and  rendered  useful  to 
the  objects  of  commerce. 

From  this  tremendous  and  destructive  cataract  a 
portion  of  power  was  to  be  drawn  away,  insignificant 
mdeed^  but  sufficient  for  the  necessities  of  thousands 
of  men ;  and  "  divided  and  conquered,"  reduced  to 
the  servitude  of  our  race,  rendered  subservient  to  the 
complicated  arts  of  civilization,  and  compelled  to 
perform  the  most  tiresome  and  trifling  tasks  in  all  their 
details. 

The  Welland  Canal  begins  near  the  mouth  of  Grand 
River,  which  empties  into  Lake  Erie,  about  40  miles 
from  Buffalo.  It  will  admit  the  largest  vessels  on  the 
lakes,  viz.  those  of  125  tons.  It  was  first  opened  to 
navigation  in  November,  1829,  precisely  five  years  after 
its  commencement.  The  work  begins  at  Port  Mait- 
land  on  Grand  River,  about  40  miles  from  Buffalo, 
where  it  is  raised  eight  feet  above  the  level  of  Lake 
£rie,and  proceeds,  with  only  descending  locks,  to  Port 
Dalhousie,  the  water  being  taken  from  Grand  River, 
above  a  dam  erected  for  the  purpose,  at  the  falls,  five 
miles  from  its  mouth.    Travellers  who  have  it  in  their 

I 


i 


\)4 


FALLS   01'    IMAGAKA. 


power  should  not  fail  to  begin  their  voyagje  here,  as 
Ihe  whole  work  is  woithy  otatlention  ;  out  the  lower 
half  of  it  presents  the  chief  assemblage  of  interesting 
objects. 

The  whole  canal  was  nearly  completed  about  the 
beginning  of  1829,  when  the  sliding  of  the  banks  at 
the  Deep  Cut,  near  Lake  Ontario,  made  it  necessary 
to  make  some  alterations  in  the  plan.  From  Lake 
Erie,  across  the  Wainfleet  Marsh,  to  the  Welland  or 
Chippewa  River,  the  level  of  that  lake  was  at  first 
preserved.  It  has  since  been  raised  five  feet.  The 
Welland  was  to  be  communicated  with  by  means  of 
two  locks  of  six  feet  lift,  and  to  serve  as  a  part  of  the 
navigable  route  for  nine  miles,  to  within  three-quarters 
of  a  mile  of  the  Deep  Cut.  The  Deep  Cut  was  to 
have  been  dug  down  to  the  level  of  the  Welland  ;  and 
the  excavations  had  already  been  nearly  completed 
when  the  accident  occurred.  The  canal  is  now  car- 
ried across  the  marsh  at  a  level  five  feet  above  that  of 
Lake  Erie,  to  Welland  River  at  a  point  five  miles  and 
a  half  below  the  place  before  desigt»ed  ;  across  that 
river  on  an  aqueduct,  which  is  high  enough  to  permit 
the  passage  of  vessels ;  and  then  along  the  northern 
bank,  to  the  Deep  Cut,  at  the  northern  end  of  which 
it  descends  by  two  locks.  Beyond  that  point  the  ori- 
ginal plan  is  preserved. 

The  Grand  River,  at  the  dam,  is  nine  chains  across; 
and  the  canal  beginning  at  Broad  Creek,  near  its  mouth, 
and  two  miles  from  the  mouth  of  Grand  River,  proceeds 
in  a  perfectly  straight  line  ;  and  a  communication  is 
open  with  Welland  River  by  locks,  at  the  aqueduct 
and  at  the  Deep  Cut. 

Fort  Maitland  is  capable  of  receiving  a  great 
number  of  vessels  such  as  navigate  the  Lake,  for 
■which  the  Canal  is  calculated.  The  neighbouring 
part  of  the  lake  is  free  from  ice  earlier  in  the  spring 
than  that  near  Buffalo;  and  it  is  believed  by  the  Ca- 
nadians, that  the  access  to  the  mouth  of  the  Welland 
canal  will  1:^  open  alwut  four  or  five  weeks  earlier 


WBLLAND   CANAL. 


dd 


levery  year.  This  of  course  would  be  a  great  advan- 
tage. It  is  not,  however,  to  be  expected  that  the  New- 
York  Canal  will  suffer  any  injury  fronn  the  present 
work.  The  business  will  soon  be  greater  than  can  be 
done  upon  it ;  and  will  increase  with  great  rapidity, 
particularly  after  the  opening  of  the  Ohio  Canal. 

Mainfleet  Marsh.  This  is  a  trr.ct  of  swannpy  land, 
elevated  only  about  eisrht  feet  above  the  level  of  Lake 
Erie,  and  extending  from  its  shore  to  Welland  or 
Chippewa  river.  The  canal  passes  it  by  a  thorough 
cut  ten  miles  long,  and  varying  from  ten  to  sixteen 
feet  in  depth,  communicating  with  many  ponds  and^ 
pools.  This  is  the  depth  designed  to  cut  this  part  of 
the  canal,  since  it  was  determined,  in  1R28,  to  draw 
the  supply  from  Grand  River,  and  raise  the  summit 
level  several  (eeX,  on  account  of  the  caving  in  at  the 
Deep  Cut.  It  is  a  fact  well  established  by  scientific 
surveyors,  that  only  a  narrow  ledge  of  rocks  occurs 
between  the  two  lakes,  and  that.  3f  this  were  removed, 
the  soil  is  generally  of  so  loose  a  nature,  that  a  current 
of  water  might  soon  wear  away  a  deep  channel,  drain 
off  Lake  Erie,  and  cause  a  tremendous  inundation. 
This  barrier  will  be  seen  at  the  Mountain  Ridge^  on 
the  northern  part  of  the  Canal,  where  the  descent  is 
above  300  feet.  From  Lake  Erie  to  that  place  the 
stranger  will  observe  that  he  proceeds  on  an  almost 
uninterrupted  level.  The  continuation  of  the  Moun- 
tain Ridge  forms  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  and  the  eleva- 
tion of  ground  at  Lockport,  surmounted  by  the  noble 
works  at  that  place.  It  runs  for  many  miles,  present- 
ing towards  the  east  an  irregular  line  of  precipice, 
with  salient  and  re-entering  angles,  like  an  immense 
fortification.  Most  of  the  streams  which  fall  over  it 
pour  d'^wn  the  ravines  thus  formed. 

An  experienced  and  capable  engineer,  Judgt. 
Geddes,  first  published  this  fact  in  the  Journal  of  Sci- 
ence and  the  Arts,  and  stated  that  there  appeared  to 
be  every  reason  to  suppose  one  of  these  natural  ravines 
received  the  Niagara  river  at  the  Falls  \  and  that  the 


9t) 


FALLS   OF   r^IAGAS^V. 


apparent  attrition  of  the  rocks  for  a  great  distance 
benxw^  and  the  general  belief  of  the  cataract  having 
retired  for  miles,  are  not  to  be  confided  in. 

The  Welland  River,  a  very  sluggish  stream,  was  to 
be  used  for  ten  miles,  being  entered  by  a  lock  of  eight 
feet  lift,  a  towing  path  lining  formed  along  its  bank. 
It  was,  however,  determined,  in  1828,  to  cross  this 
stream  by  an  aqueduct.  This  river  has  a  course  of  30 
or  40  miles,  between  the  two  lakes,  but  nearly  on  a 
level  with  Lake  Erie,  and  empties  into  Niagara  River 
about  two  miles  above  the  falls.  It  was  intended  that 
vessels  passing  the  sloop  lock  at  Black  Rock,  should 
enter  the  canal  by  this  route  ;  and  the  Canal  Company 
were  authorized  to  make  a  towing  path  along  the  Ni- 
agara and  the  Welland  Rivers.  Its  breadth  is  from 
three  to  four  chains. 

The  Deep  Cid.  We  approach  a  part  of  the  canal 
in  which  toe  greatest  labour  and  expense  were  re- 
quired. It  extends  one  mile  and  three  quarters,  and 
required  the  excavation  o(  1,477,700  cubic  yards  of 
earth.  The  excavation  is  now  to  an  average  depth  of 
45  ieet.  The  ground  is  undulating,  and  the  greatest 
depth  is  56  feet. 

The  surface  suddenly  rises  to  the  height  of  38  feet ; 
and  106  chains  further,  to  56  feet  6  inches.  Thence 
it  descends  until,  at  the  end  of  the  Deep  Cut,  it  is  only 
30  feet.  This  ground  has  been  excavated,  and  the 
level  of  the  canal  preserved,  by  the  greatest  work  of 
the  kind  in  America,  excepting  pehhaps  the  aqueduct 
on  the  plain  of  Mexico.  The  earth,  to  12  or  18  (eet 
below  the  surface,  was  clay  mixed  with  a  little  sand. 
Below  that  was  a  hard  blue  clay,  frequently  requiring 
the  pickaxe.  The  earth  dug  out  near  the  middle  (m 
the  cut  was  raised  up  the  banks,  which  are  160  feet 
apart  at  the  deepest  places,  as  the  nature  of  the  soil 
required  a  graaual  slope.  In  1828,  however,  great 
masses  sunk  down  again  into  the  canal,  so  that  the  ex- 
cavations are  made  to  a  level  17  feet  above  that  at  first 
depierned. 


WELLAND   CANAL. 


97 


Lock  No.  1,  of  the  Mountain  Ridge,  is  4  miles  and 
23  chain?  from  the  Deep  Cut.  The  intervening  sur- 
face is  undulating,  and  the  canal  passes  alternate  ra- 
vines and  ridges.  By  damming  the  former  a  little  way 
from  the  line  on  the  left,  numerous  pools  or  reser- 
voirs (taken  together,  two  miles  in  length)  were 
formed,  which  would  have  been  very  useful  for  the 
locks. 

Near  the  brow  of  the  Mountain  Ridge  is  an  eleva- 
tion, which  required  an  excavation  nearly  20  feet  deep 
for  20  chains.  On  this  level  are  four  twin  bridges, 
with  hutments  40  feet  asunder,  corresponding  with  the 
breadth  of  all  the  locks  westward  of  this  place,  which 
are  40  feet  by  125,  and  able  to  admit  steamboats  up 
to  this  point,  either  from  Grand  River  or  Niagara 
River,  by  the  Wei  land. 

Locks  Nos.  1,  2,  3,  4,  are  in  a  ravine  62  chains  in 
length,  which  introduces  the  stranger  to  the  most  re- 
markable scene  of  the  kind  in  the  world. 

The  Mountain  Ridge,  Within  the  extent  of  a  mile 
and  55  chains  are  17  locks  of  22  feet  by  100,  which 
overcome  nearly  the  whole  elevation  of  Lake  Erie 
above  Ontario.  The  canal  winds  along  the  face  of 
the  descent,  bending  to  the  left  and  the  right,  to  give 
room  for  reservoirs  between  the  locks,  necessary  for 
a  convenient  supply  of  water.  None  of  the  locks  are 
less  than  30  yards  apar:.  This  is  the  only  part  of  the 
route  where  rocks  were  to  be  excavated,  and  the 
amount  of  rock  removed  here  was  70,000  cubic  yards. 

At  the  foot  of  this  long  and  steep  descent  the  canal 
enters  a  ravine,  which  extends  two  and  a  half  miles 
through  12  locks,  between  high  banks,  to 

St.  Catharine's.  The  descent  from  the  top  of  the 
ridge  to  this  place  is  322  feet.  Though  a  small  vil- 
lage, St.  Catharine's  has  already  become  a  place  of 
considerable  importance.  To  Lake  Ontario  irom  this 
place,  five  miles,  there  are  four  locks,  32  feet  by  125, 
and  one  of  ten  feet  lift.  The  route  runs  chiefly  along 
the  valley  of  the  principal  branch  of  the  Twelve  Mile 
Creek.  1 2 


98 


J'AhlJS   OF   NJAGAHA. 


J! 


Port  Dcdhoudef  the  harbour  of  the  Welland  Canal 
on  Lake  Ontario,  is  protected  by  two  fine  piers,  run 
out  200  or  350  yards,  nearly  at  the  angle  of  storm, 
which  is  about  80  decrees  west :  the  eastern  overbp- 
ping  the  western,  with  a  return  pier,  which  is  better 
than  the  break-water  originally  proposed.  The  ground 
was  here  found  to  be  a  brown  alluvion,  well  fitted  for 
the  driving  of  piles.  A  large  harbour  for  boats,  and  a 
timber  pond  for  rafts,  have  been  formed  by  damming 
the  mouth  of  Twelve  Mile  Creek,  which  throws  the 
water  back  over  an  area  of  500  acres.  A  waste  weir 
lets  off  the  surplus  water  without  allowing  it  to  enter 
the  harbour,  so  that  there  is  no  current  formed  through 
it,  and  no  danger  is  incurred  of  forming  a  bar  at  its 
mouth.  A  lock  of  five  feet  lift  raises  vessels  from  th^ 
harbour  to  the  basin. 

It  has  been  ascertained  that  a  branch  canal  might  be 
cut  on  a  dead  level,  and  at  the  expense  of  only 
20,000/.  from  somewhere  near  the  foot  of  the  Mountain 
Ridge  to  Niagna,  nine  miles  ;  but  no  decisive  measures 
have  >c:t  been  adopted.  It  would  cross  Ten,  Four, 
Two,  and  One  Mile  Creeks. 

The  Canada  Land  Company,  by  whom  this  magni- 
ficent work  has  been  planned  and  accomplished,  is  a 
corporation,  under  the  parliament  of  the  colony,  with 
a  capital  of  ^800,000,  of  which  a  large  portion  was 
supplied  by  individual  subscriptions,  partly  in  New- 
York  and  England.  The  government  of  Upper  Ca- 
nada subscribed  g200,000  and  lent  glOO,000.  That 
of  Lower  Canada  subscribed  g  100,000.  The  British 
government  have  granted  them  jne-ninth  of  ^he  whole 
cost  of  the  work,  and  13,000  acres  of  land  on  the 
route,  west  of  Welland  River.  Public  stores,  &c.  are 
to  be  transported  on  the  canal  free  of  duty. 

This  canal  admits  lai^er  vessels  than  any  other  in 
America,  except  the  Delaware  and  Chesapeake  Ca- 
nal in  Pennsylvania,  for  which  see  the  index.  The 
locks  are  of  wood,  but  built  on  the  most  approved 
principles.     The  common  dimensions  are   100  fe€t 


bridge 


TOW^  OP  OrELPII. 


09 


ion^,  22  ^ide,  and  8  deep ;  and  are  calculated  for  ves- 
sels of  from  100  to  125  tons  burthen.  The  largest 
schooners  heretofore  used  on  the  lakes,  are  stated  to 
be  not  more  than  90  feet  long,  20  wide,  with  a  bur- 
then of  from  60  to  90  tons.  Many  of  the  locks  re- 
quired puddlinj^  and  flagging. 

The  lockage  on  this  canal  being  all  on  one  de- 
scent, there  never  can  be  any  want  of  water,:  Lake 
Erie  being  on  the  summit  level.  The  numerous  ponds 
and  pools  are  however  convenient  reservoirs.  The 
nature  of  the  work  is  such  as  to  allow  deepemnjg  the 
water  by  merely  building  the  locks  so  much  higher, 
and  raismg  the  dam  over  Welland  River. 

Men  of  science  in  the  branches  of  enginoering 
which  relate  to  the  construction  of  canals,  have  spoken 
with  approbatiot),  and  frequently  admiration,  of  the 
modes  adopted  on  the  line  of  the  Welland  Canal :  the 
manner  of  removing  earth  from  deep  cuttings;  the 
plans  of  the  wooden  locks,  paddle  gates,  araw- 
bridges,  &c. 

The  totVYi  ofGuelph  is  a  creation  of  the  year  1827  ; 
it  was  laid  out  and  settled  under  the  direction  of  the 
Canada  Land  Company;  and  a  village  has  suddenly 
sprung  up  in  the  midst  of  the  wilderness.  The  Semi- 
nary was  founded  the  first  year  of  its  existence,  and 
there  have  been  built  the  Company's  office,  of  stone, 
132  feet  square,  a  church,  and  schoolhouse.  This 
place  is  the  central  settlement  on  a  tract  of  the  Com- 
pany's lands  in  the  Gore  District,  called  the  Town- 
ship of  Guelph,  containing  42,000  acres  of  CroWn  re- 
serves for  the  Six  Nations.  The  Clergy  Reserves  are 
on  the  N.  E.  of  it,  beyond  which  are  Flamboro'  and 
Beverly.  The  township  of  Watetloo  is  S.  S.  W.  of 
Guelph ;  and  probably  the  wealthiest  farming  town- 
ship It)  the  province.  Guelph  Township  has  a  soil  of 
black,  fertile,  sandy  loam,  bearing  beecn,  maple,  elm, 
bass,  ash,  cheny,  some  pine,  cedar,  and  hemlock.  Tlie 
surface  is  irregular,  and  the  streams  swift.  The  town 
is  on  the  river  Speed,  12  mifes  fK>m  its  confluence 


liA) 


PALLS    OF   MAGARA. 


with  Grand  RiVer,  5  from  Waterloo,  14  from  Gait,  3<i 
by  the  present  road  from  Ancaster,  and  25  from  Lake 
Cfntario.  A  fine  straitjht  road,  8  rods  wide,  is  to  be 
opened  in  that  direction.  Rivers  run  from  this  town 
into  lakes  Huron,  Simcoe,  Erie,  and  Ontario;  and  the 
Canada  Company  intend  to  render  them  all  navigable 
if  possible. 

Goderich  is  a  town  lately  laid  out  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Red,  or  Goderich  River ;  to  which  a  road  was 
making  in  1828,  from  Guelph,  by  the  government,  and 
lots  of  100  acres  offered  for  sale. 

Burlington.  The  bay  is  remarkably  fine  ;  it  is  shel- 
tered from  every  wind,  contains  15,000  acres,  and  is 
25  feet  deep.  The  fort  on  the  heights  is  very  strong 
and  commanding.  A  large  fleet  might  lie  under  its 
protection.  It  is  proposed  to  make  a  graving  dock  in 
Grindstone  Creek,  by  damming  it,  under  the  guns  cf 
the  fort.     An  artificial  entrance  has  been  made. 

Dundas,  at  the  head  of  Burlington  Bay,  is  a  flourish- 
ing place,  and  rising  in  importance.  A  road  was  in 
construction  to  this  place  from  Guelph  in  1828. 

Improvements  projected  in  Canada.  Among  the 
most  recent  projects  for  internal  improvement  in  Ca- 
nada, is  that  of  a  canal  from  Lake  Huron  to  the  Bay 
of  Quinte.  This  would  open  a  communication  at  a 
distance  from  the  frontier  of  the  United  States,  by 
which,  in  time  of  war,  goods,  military  stores,  muni- 
tions, &c.  might  be  transported  without  the  risks  to 
which  they  would  be  exposed  on  the  present  routes. 
The  engineers  employed  by  the  British  government 
state  that  there  are  broken  links  formed  oy  Simcoe, 
Cameron,  Pigeon,  and  Front  Lakes,  which  might  be 
connected  without  any  great  difficulty^  in  one  entire 
chain  of  water  communication.  The  hne  might  touch 
at  the  Marmora  Iron  Works,  and  pass  through  the 
fiew  settlements  near  Rice  Lake  and  the  River  Trent, 
which  are  flourishing.  The  population  of  Upper  Ca- 
nada was  believed  to  amount  to  200,000  in  1828. 

It  has  been  proposed  to  i    'le  canals  for  sloop  navi^ 


I 


gatioi 
such  ' 
are  e 
1000 
^U  th< 

trips  i 
paid  ( 
of  m< 
bet  we 
only 

Yor 
consid 
figure, 
sive  w 
recent 
a  univ 
Bishot 
York 
No  re 
divinit 
making 
than  1( 


Onta 
deep ; 
the  ek 
miles  b 

Erie 
deep ;  ; 
Albany 
feet  hig 
risen. 

Huroi 
dOO  feet 
the  tide 

Micbi 
known  : 


THE   WESTSBN  LAKES. 


101 


It,  30 
Lake 
to  be 
town 
id  the 
gable 

jth  of 
1  was 
it,  and 

s  shel- 
and  is 
strong 
ier  its 
ock  in 
funs  cf 

Durish- 
ivas  in 

\g  the 

in  Ca- 

e  Bay 

n  at  a 

es,  by 

muni- 

sks  to 

routes. 

Timent 

mcoe, 

ht  be 

entire 

touch 

h  the 

Trent, 

er  Ca- 

)  navi^ 


gallon  from  Prescott  to  Montreal.  The  advantages  of 
such  works,  taken  into  view  with  the  Welland  Canal, 
are  easy  to  estimate.  Before,  the  transportation  of 
1000  staves  from  Lake  Erie  to  Montreal  cost  J^dO.  If 
all  these  canals  were  made,  the  cost  would  be  reduced 
to  <|S50.  Sloops  carrying  6000  staves  could  make  six 
trips  a  year,  and  gain  ^1800.  A  barrel  of  flour  which 
paid  6.9.  for  that  distance,  would  pay  only  3^.  A  ton 
of  merchandise  now  costs  £4  5s,  for  transportation 
between  Prescott  and  Montreal,  and  would  then  cost 
only  £l  7 J. 

xorkf  the  capital  of  Upper  Canada,  is  a  place  of 
considerable  size.  The  public  buildings  make  little 
figure.  The  harbour  is  very  fine,  protected  by  defen- 
sive works  on  Gibraltar  Point.  King's  College  is  of 
recent  institution,  and  bears  the  style  and  privileges  of 
a  university.  The  governor  is  chancellor,  the  Xord 
Bishop  of  Qtiebec  visiter,  and  the  Archdeacoh  of 
York  president.  The  chancellor  a!ppoint8  professors. 
No  religfous  tests  are  required  except  for  degrees  in 
divinity,  as  at  Oxford  and  Cambriage.  A  road  is 
making  to  Guelph,  47  miles,  and  on  to  Goderich,  kr* 
than  100  further. 

THE  WESTERN  LAKES. 

Ontario  is  180  miles  long,  40  miles  wide,  600  feet 
deep;  and  its  surface  is  computed  at  218  feet  above 
the  elevation  of  tide  water  at  Three  Rivers,  270 
miles  below  Cape  Vincent. 

Erie  is  270  miles  long,  60  miles  wide,  200  feet 
deep ;  and  its  surface  is  565  feet  above  tide  water  at 
Albany.  It  was  said,  in  1823,  to  be  between  2  and  3 
feet  higher  than  a  few  years  before,  having  gradually 
risen. 

Huron  is  250  miles  long,  100  miles  average  breadth, 
900  feet  deep ;  and  its  surface  is  nearly  695  feet  above 
the  tide  water. 

Michigan  is  400  miles  long,  50  wide,  depth  un- 
known :  elevation  the  same  as  Huron. 


102 


FALLS   OF   NLVGAUA. 


I 

1 1 


i 


Green  Bay  is  about  105  miles  lon^,  20  miles  wide, 
depth  unknown;  elevation  the  same  as  Huron  and 
Michigan. 

Lake  Superior  is  459  miles  lon^,  109  miles  average 
width,  900  feet  deep ;  and  its  surtace  1048  feet  above 
the  tide  water. 

Hence  the  bottom  of  Lake  Erie  is  not  as  low  as  the 
foot  of  Niagara  Falls ;  but  the  bottom  of  each  of  the 
other  lakes,  it  will  be  observed,  is  lower  than  the  sur- 
face of  the  ocean. 

"Lake  Superior  is  the  head  fountain,  the  grand  reser- 
voir of  the  mighty  volume.  After  making  a  semi- 
circle of  five  degrees  to  the  south,  accommodating  and 
enriching  one  of  the  most  fertile  and  interesting  sec- 
tions of  the  globe,  it  meets  the  tide  a  distance  of  2000 
miles  from  its  source,  and  5000  from  the  extreme  point 
of  its  estuary,  on  the  Atlantic  coast.'* 

The  lakes  have  a  periodical  rise  once  in  twelve 
years.     It  occurred  in  1815  and  1827. 

The  Ferry  across  Niagara  river  is  about  half  a 
mile  below  the  Falls,  and  may  be  crossed  at  any  hour 
in  the  day,  without  datjger,  notwithstanding  the  ra- 
pidity of  the  current.  The  descent  from  the  bank  is 
so  steep,  that  it  has  been  necessary  to  build  a.  stair- 
case. 

To  Byffalo  on  the  Canada  side  28i  miles. 

To  Chippewa, 2  miles. 

Waterloo,  (Fort  Erie,)  .    .     .    .16 
(Over  the  ferry  to  Black  Kock,  25  cts.  each  passenger.) 
Buflfalo,.    . n 

Opposite  Buffalo,  in  Waterloo,  are  the  remains  of 
Fort  Erie,  a  fortress  of  great  consequence  in  the  late 
war.  ^  There  was  a  strong  wall  surrounded  with  in- 
trenchments  reaching  to  the  lake.  The  remains  of  the 
British  camp  are  also  seen,  and  the  trees  are  still 
wounded  with  shot. 

Bottle  of  Erie.  On  the  17th  of  September,  1814,  a 
severe  action  was  fought  at  a  little  distance  from  Fort 
Erie,  when  a  part  of  the  American  garrison,  1 300  regu- 


Jai's  a 

BritLsl 

The 

annoyi 

Their 

a  wooc 

of  the 

tachmc 

Gen. 

the  rif] 

light  ir 

sent  frc 

by  a  p; 

my*s  ri 

vine  be 

Gen.  R 

Alii 

their  at 

at  the  s 

and  3  o 

two  bic 

serted,  i 

3  was  1 

Col.  Gi 

which  j 

enemy'j 

in  it.     '. 

having 

fered  so 

his  cam] 

behind  t 

Gener 

sive  dist 

great  ra] 

duce  irr 

Canal,  \ 

advantai 

Emigi 

>>ritifh  I 


]ij!:MAi;iib  OA  LPi'jai  caaada. 


103 


iai's  and  1000  militia,  made  a  sortie,  and  took  the 
Britii»h  works,  about  500  yards  in  front  o(  their  line. 
The  British  had  two  batteries  on  their  left,  which 
annoyed  the  fort,  and  were  ;.bout  opening  a  third. 
Their  camp  was  about  two  miles  distant,  shehered  by 
a  wood :  their  works  were  garrisoned  with  one-third 
of  their  infantry,  from  12  to  1500  men,  and  a  de- 
tachment of  artillery. 

Gen.  Porter  with  the  volunteers,  Col.  Gibson  with 
the  riflemen,  and  Maj.  Brooks  with  the  23d  and  21st 
light  infantry,  and  a  few  dismounted  dragoons,  were 
sent  from  the  extreme  left  of  the  Atneriraii  position, 
by  a  passage  cut  through  the  woods  li>  .  rds  the  ene- 
my's right ;  and  Gen.  Miller  was  statiui  ed  in  the  ra- 
vine between  the  fort  and  the  enemy's  batteries  ;  while 
Gen.  Ripley  had  a  reserve  under  the  l)a>tions. 

A  little  before  3  P.  M.  the  left  columns  commenced 
their  attack  upon  the  enemy's  right ;  and  Gen.  Miller 
at  the  same  time  pushed  forward  between  Nos.  2  and 
and  3  of  the  batteries,  broke  their  line,  and  took  their 
two  blockhouses.  Battery  No.  1  was  soon  after  de- 
serted, the  guns  were  spiked,  and  the  magazine  of  No. 
3  was  blown  up.  Gen.  Ripley  was  wounded,  and 
Col.  Gibson  killed.  The  action  lasted  about  an  hour, 
"which  gave  time  for  the  remaining  two-thirds  of  the 
enemy's  force  to  march  from  their  camp  and  partake 
in  it.  The  Americans  at  length  retired  with  prisoners, 
having  succeeded  in  their  object.  The  British  suf- 
fered so  much,  that  Lieut.  Gen<  Drummond  broke  up 
his  camp  on  the  21st,  and  rtitired  to  his  intrenchments 
behind  the  Chippewa  River. 

General  Remarks  on  Ujyper  Canada.  This  exten- 
sive district  has  begun  to  increase  in  population  with 
great  rapidity,  and  great  exertions  are  making  to  intro- 
duce improvements  of  various  kinds.  The  Welland 
Canal,  which  has  already  been  spoken  of,  promises 
advantages  of  great  importance  to  the  colonies. 

Emigration  has  been  so  much  encouraged  by  the 
Briti<ih  government,  for  the  peopling  of  this  part  ot' 


\ 


yj 


\ 


104        KOUTU  FHOM  iMlAUAKA  'i'O  JUUM'U^AL. 

their  possessions,  that  great  numbers  of  Irish,  Scotch^ 
and  Cnghsh  have  come  over  within  a  few  years.  In 
the  seven  years  prece<iing;  I8'J5,  68,000  emigrants  ar- 
rived at  Qjuebec  ;  in  1^^5, 1W)00,  and  many  since. 

According  to  Folliergill,  there  were  then,  in  Upper 
Canada,  989,'^94  acres  of  cultivated  land  ;  grist  idh^s, 
304  ;  saw  inil^,  386  ;  merchant  stores,  3M  ;  houses^ 
30,774  ;  oxen,  27,614  ;  milch  cows,  67,000  ;  calves, 
36,000 ;  290  townships  surveyed,  containing  in  all  17 
million  acres ;  about  two  millions  wild  lands ;  dis« 
tillers'  duty,  ^46,000,  (in  1827.) 

To  Btiffalo,  on  the  American  side,  30^  miles. 

Tonawarita  Creek,  where  the  canal  passes,     1 1  mile^^ 

Black  Rock, 10 

Buffalo, 2^ 

To  Fort  George,  4  miUs* 

Queenstown, 7 

Fort  Geoi^e, 7 

(The  route  from  Niagara  to  Albany  and  the  Springs 
1   be   taken  up   after  the   route  to  Montreal.] — 
Seep,  109. 

ROUTE  FROM  NIAGARA  TO  MONTREAL, 

302  miles. 

Those  who  have  never  travelled  through  the  state 
of  New-York,  and  have  leisure  to  make  so  circuitous 
a  route,  will  prefer  to  go  to  Buffalo,  Lockport,  or  Ro- 
Chester,  and  take  the  line  of  the  Erie  Cana),  the 
Springs,  Lake  George,  and  Lake  Champlain,  in  theic 
way  to  Montreal.  Many,  however,  will  prefer  to  take 
the  more  direct  route,  which  is  by  the  steamboats 
through  Lake  Ontario,  and  is  performed  in  about  two 
days.  The  American  boats  go  from  Fort  Niagara  to 
Ogdensbuigh,  keeping  towards  the  southern  shore,  and 


touchii) 

make  a 

middle 

the  tw 

land   al 

points  < 

.'ire  the 

Fifty  M 

Rout( 

seven  st 

of  Lake 

Sir  J.  ft 

The  J 

at  King! 

Prescoti 

Cornwa 

you  to  t 

69  horse 

at  Cote 

village  < 

tofore   t 

is  in  staj 

boat  go( 

treal   a 

Coffee  I 

was  g7- 

penses 

about  p 

Amer\ 

Porti 

River, 

custom-l 

county. 

gently  v^ 

*M  Kin 
to  be  the  r 
steamboat 
J  node!  for  i 

^vid*»,  inclu 


i'uHT  (iL.SKblui:. 


lOi'l 


:al. 


touchini?  at  the  principal  ports.  Tlie  British  boats 
make  a  few  stops,  but  steer  a  course  very  near  the 
middle  of  the  lake,  which  is  the  boundary  between 
the  two  countries :  they  are  usually  out  of  sieht  of 
land  about  twelve  hours.  There  are  several  high 
points  on  the  northern  shore.  The  most  important 
nre  the  cliffs  of  'I'orenlo,  the  Devil's  Nose,  and  Iht 
Fifty  Mile  Hill. 

Route  from  Kiogura  to  Montreal.  There  were 
seven  steamboats,  in  1828,  owned  on  the  British  side 
of  Lake  Ontario  ;  the  Alciope,  Qjueenston,  Torento, 
Sir  J.  Kempt,  Dalhousie,  &c. 

The  steamboats  go  to  York  in  about  i^  hours ;  stop 
at  Kingston*  in  at)out  24  hours  from  Niagara,  and  at 
Prescott  in  twelve  hours  more  ;  thence  stage  coach  to 
Cornwall ;  whence  a  steamboat,  in  five  hours,  brings 
you  to  the  foot  of  Lake  St.  Frnncis.  A  steamboat  of 
69  horse  power  was  built  in  1827,  to  pass  the  rapids 
at  Coteau  du  Lac,  and  to  take  passengers  to  the 
village  of  the  Cedars,  nine  miles  i(urther  than  here- 
tofore by  water.  From  the  Cedars  to  the  cascade 
is  in  stagp  coaches,  about  16  miles.  Thence  a  steam- 
boat goes  iti  4  hours  to  Lachine  ;  and  thence  to  Mon- 
treal a  stage  coach,  which  stops  at  the  Exchange 
Coffee  House.  The  fare  from  Prescott  to  Montreal 
was  $1 — and  from  Niagara  g20 — The  additional  ex- 
penses for  board  amount  on  the  whole  journey  to 
about  g2i. 

American  Boats. 

Port  Genesee,  72  miles,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Genesee 
River,  is  a  port  of  entry  and  delivery.  Here  are  a 
custom-house,  and  the  village  of  Charlotte,  in  Monroe 
county.  This  river  rises  in  Pennsylvania,  and  runs  a 
gently  winding  course  about  125  miles  in  the  state  of 

*Jlt  Kingston^  (U.  C.)  is  to  be  se  "  the  Cataraqui  Bridirc,  where  is 
to  be  the  route  between  Lake  Ontario  and  the  Ottawa  River.  The 
Kteamboat  Dalhousie,  which  first  passed  this  bridge  in  i8:29,  is  to  be  a 
inodel  for  othet  boats  on  the  route ;  viz.  76  feet  long,  ai  feet  4  inch<»s' 
^vid",  including  tlie  wings,  draught  of  water  4  feet. 

K 


X 


lUG         KOUTE  l-'MOM  xNIAGAKA  .TO  MOATREAL. 

New- York.  It  is  navigable  only  four  miles  Irom  it- 
mouth,  to  Carthage,  where  the  banks  are  high,  rocky, 
and  perpendicular ;  and  there  is  a  fine  fall  (104  feet, 
including  the  rapids,  &c.)  about  half  a  mile  above. 
Stage  coaches  are  in  waiting  for  Rochester,  six  miles. 
See  Carthage,  page  64. 

Great  Sodus  Bay,  35  m.  Here  are  three  bays  in 
succession :  Sodus,  East,  and  Port  Bays.  There  are 
three  Islands,  and  Port  Glasgow  is  at  the  head  of  the 
bay,  only  10^  miles  from  Clyde,  on  the  canal,  with  a 
good  road  to  it. 

Oswego,  28  m.  This  village  is  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  Oswego  River,  and  has  a  good  harbour,  with  ten 
feet  water.  Navigation  on  this  river  ended  half  a  mile 
above,  except  for  boats,  which  went  12  miles  further.  A 
ver>'  large  button-wood  tree,  35^  feet  in  circumference, 
is  seen  a  mile  from  the  village  near  the  road. 

This  place  is  likely  to  oecome  one  of  the  most 
rapid  growth  and  improvement  in  all  the  state  of  New- 
York.  Its  prosperity,  not  being  derived  directly  from 
the  influence  ot  the  Erie  Canal,  but  from  one  of  its 
principal  branches,  is  of  a  date  correspondent  with  the 
commencement  of  the  latter  work,  1826.  (See  Sy- 
racuse.) It  was  completed  in  1828.  It  joins  the  Erie 
Canal  at  Salina,  and  will  afford  an  interesting  excur- 
sion either  way.  From  the  head  of  the  falls  to  the 
village,  it  leads  along  the  river's  bank,  preserving  the 
elevated  level  almost  to  the  brow  of  the  hill  over  the 
Lake,  and  then  descends  by  locks.  For  the  distance 
of  a  mile  the  interval  between  the  canal  and  the  river 
affords  the  most  advantageous  situations  for  manufac- 
tories of  various  descriptions,  for  which  the  land  was 
purchased  in  lots  in  1827  at  from  $2,600  to  g3,600. 
X^ake  vessels  can  lie  on  one  side  of  the  manufactories 
and  canal  boats  on  the  other ;  and  Congress  have  ap- 
propriated $35,000  for  protecting  the  harbour  with 
piers.  The  opening  of  the  WelTand  canal  will  pro- 
bably increase  the  business  of  the  place,  which,  be- 
fore these  improvements,  was  out  of  the  way  of  travel- 


SACKETT's  HARBOUll. 


1U7 


•ocky, 
t  feet, 
ibove. 
miles. 

lys  in 
re  are 
of  the 
^ith  a 

mouth 
th  t«n 
a  mile 
ler.  A 
jrence, 

J  most 
•  New- 
y  from 
J  of  its 
ith  the 
e<»  Sy- 
\e  Erie 
excur- 
to  the 
ing-  the 
>rer  the 
stance 
e  river 
iuufac- 
id  was 
^3,500. 
ctories 

with 
ill  pro- 
:b,  be- 
traveW 


ive 
r 


lers,  except  as  a  point  where  the  steamboats  stopped. 
The  lake  is  70  miles  wide  opposite  Oswego. 

Fort  Oswego,  so  famous  in  the  history  of  the  French 
and  revolutionary  wars,  stands  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river.  The  situation  was  very  advantag^eous  for  the 
command  of  a  large  extent  of  country,  as  this  river  is 
the  common  outlet  of  all  the  interior  lakes  of  the  state. 
While  thih  post  was  held  alternately  by  the  French 
and  English,  they  could  command  a  great  part  of  the 
trade  with  the  Five  Nations  of  Indians,  who  inhabited 
the  country  with  which  it  communicated. 

Fort  Oswego  is  elevated  only  about  50  feet  from  the 
level  of  the  water;  and  being  overlooked  by  the 
eminence  on  which  Fort  Ontario  was  afterward 
erected,  was  fit  only  tor  a  defence  in  early  times.  A 
trading  house  was  built  here  in  1722,  and  a  fort  five 
years  after.  This  was  extended  in  the  beginning  of 
the  French  war  of  1755,  when  Fort  Ontario  was 
built.  In  the  following  year.  General  Montcalm 
came  from  Canada,  and  besieged  the  fortresses  with 
3000  troops,  and  two  vessels.  Fort  Ontario  was 
evacuated  after  one  attack  ;  and  on  the  following  day, 
Angust  14th,  Fort  Oswego  surrendered  to  the  French, 
with  a  large  quantity  of  stores,  brought  at  great  ex- 
pense through  the  wilderness,  and  21  cannon,  14 
mortars,  &c.  also  two  sloops,  and  about  200  boats. 
The  captors,  however,  did  not  think  proper  to  hold 
the  position,  but  immediately  abandoned  it. 

Col.  St.  Leger  attempted  to  approach  Albany  by 
this  route  in  1777,  in  order  to  co-operate  with  wen. 
Burgo/ne  ;  but  he  was  repulsed  at  Fort  Stanwix  by 
Col.  Vvillet,  and  obliged  to  return. 

In  1814,  on  the  6th  of  May,  the  British  attacked  the 
place,  and,  after  a  loss  of  about  100  men,  got  posses- 
sion of  it,  but  evacuated  it  the  next  day. 

SacketCs  Harbour,  40  m.  Settled  in  1801.  In  the 
late  war,  it  became  an  important  naval  station,  and 
increased  very  rapidly.  It  is  8  miles  distant  from  the 
lake,  on  Hoimslnw  Bay.     The  harbour  is  divided  inta 


1 

I 


I 

4 


108      KOUTE    F]i03I   ISilAGARA   TO   MONTREAL. 

two  by  a  narrow  point,  and  offers  great  advantages 
for  ship  building.  A  first  rate,  man-of-war  is  still  un- 
finished on  the  stocks,  under  a  shelter,  and  another  at 
Black  River.  On  the  shore  are  seen  the  stone  Bar- 
racks, which  enclose  about  ten  acres  of  ground. 

Cape  Vincent,  20  m.  The  St.  Lawrence  is  here 
diviaed  by  Grand  Island.  Kingston,  in  Upper  Canada, 
lies  opposite,  at  the  distance  of  11  miles. 

Morristown,  This  is  a  small  village,  10  miles  from 
Offdensburgh.  The  river  is  a  little  more  than  a  mile 
inl^readth,  and  on  the  opposite  side  is  Brockville. 
There  is  a  number  of  rocky  islands  in  the  St.  Law- 
rence, and  the  gentle  slope  of  the  land  on  the  New- 
York  shore,  adds  a  great  degree  of  beauty  to  the 
scene. 

General  Wilkinson  embarked  at  this  place  in  1813, 

Ogdemhurgh,  formerly  Oswegatchie.  This  is  the 
end  of  the  navij^ation,  and  here  the  steamboat  stops. 
The  village  is  pretty,  contains  some  large  stores,  and 
carries  on  considerable  business.  On  the  other  side  of 
the  river  is  Prescott,  where  the  British  steamboat 
stops.  The  ruins  of  Fort  Oswegatchie,  or  Fort  Pre- 
sentation, may  still  be  traced.  It  was  not  very  large, 
and  contained  only  a  bomb-proof,  two  buildings  of 
stone,  barracks,  &c.  It  was  built  in  the  beginning  or 
middle  of  the  last  century.  Grapes  are  cultivated 
here  with  great  success. 

The  Thousand  Islands  are  a  most  beautiful  part  of 
the  navigation,  presentinj;  themselves  in  every  variety 
of  forms,  though  never  rising  to  any  g:reat  elevation. 
They  might  lt«  compared  with  the  islands  of  Lake 
George. 

Gallop  Islands,  5  m.  Here  the  rapids  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  begin.  A  number  of  mills  will  be  seen  at 
different  places  on  the  shore.  On  Stony  Island  was  a 
fort  of  some  c(  nsequence,  which  was  taken  by  Gene- 
ral Amherst  on  his  way  to  Montreal,  in  the  year  1760. 

St.  Regis,'  54  m.  The  Indian  tribe  which  bears  this 
name  have  a  resprvstion  of  land  h^^re  11  miles  by  3, 


ntages 
ill  un- 
der at 
I  Bar- 

s  here 
=inada, 

sfrom 

a  mile 

kville. 

Law- 

New- 
to  the 

1813. 
is  the 
stops. 
!a>  and 
side  of 
imboat 
t  Pre- 
large, 
ngs  ot 
linger 
ivated 

sart  of 
variety 
vation. 
\  Lake 

he  St. 

ieen  at 
was  a 
Gene- 

r 1760. 

ars  this 

by  3, 


I 
if 

W 


'^    Ml 


<w  -•r 
«*  < 


V. 


ROUTE  I'JJOM  NIAGARA  TO  ALBANY. 


Lachine 
Montreal. 


,  53  m.     (See  Index.) 
tl,  9  m.     (See  do.) 


109 


V. 


ROaTE  FROM  NIAGARA  TO  ALBANY. 

Black  Rock  is  a  pleasant  village  situated  on  the 
margin  of  Niaij:ara  River,  a  little  way  from  its  head, 
and  opposite  Squaw  Island,  at  the  mouth  of  Lake  Erie. 
It  was  burnt  by  the  British  during  the  war  in  1814, 
but  has  since  been  rebuilt  and  increased  to  a  much 
greater  size.  Black  Rock  disputed  with  Buffalo  the 
privilege  of  having  the  basin  of  the  canal  built  in  her 
harbour,  and  at  last  obtained  it.  A  pier  about  two 
miles  in  length  was  built  to  i.  ure  the  boats  and  ves- 
sels from  the  waves  of  the  '  .ke,  as  well  as  to  raise 
the  water  for  tl>  '  supply  of  the  canal  to  the  Genesee 
River.  The  work,  however,  has  its  disadvantages  : 
for  the  swiftness  of  the  current  in  the  river,  and  the 
heaping  up  of  the  ice  on  the  shores,  prove  great  ob- 
stacles to  the  navigation,  and  the  pier  has  suffered 
repeated  injuries.  It  has  been  partly  reconstructed 
on  an  improved  plan.  An  inclined  plane  is  presented 
to  the  waves,  &c. 


N 


.^ 


,t 


BUFFALO,  3  miles  from  Black  Rock. 

Inns.    The  Eagle  Tavern,  &c. 

The  situation  of  this  village  is  remarkably  conve- 
nient and  agreeable,  occupying  a  long  hill  of  a  gentle 
ascent,  rising  from  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  lake. 
The  principal  street  runs  along  the  ridge  of  the  hill, 
looking  out  upon  Lake  Erie  to  the  horizon,  and  is  or- 
namented with  several  fine  blocks  of  brick  stores  and 
handsome  dwelling-houses,  together  with  several  pub- 
lic buildings,  all  erected  since  the  burning  of  the  village 
by  the  British  in  1814,  as  well  as  the  buildings  in  the 
other  streets,  which  are  fast  increasing  every  year.  In 
April  1814,  only  one  house  was  standing  in  the  vil-* 
lage,  that  of  a  widow  in  the  upper  part  of  the  street. 

K  2 


•P 

'ih 


1  10         ROUTE    IPROM    jNIAGARA   TO   ALBANV. 

A  large  piece  of  ground  has  been  left  in  V  middicot 
the  town  for  a  public  square,  where  several  roads 
meet,  and  which  it  is  intended  to  ornament  with  pub- 
lic edifices.  A  walk  has  also  been  laid  out  on  the 
brow  of  the  hill  towards  the  lake.  This  is  called  the 
Terrace,  and  affords  a  charming  view  upon  the  lake, 
the  harbour,  and  the  canal,  to  Black  Rock.  In  1825, 
a  small  village  grew  up  below  the  terrace,  5  taverns 
being  built,  with  65  other  houses,  before  which  there 
was  but  one  house.  One  of  the  inns  will  accommodate 
900  persons.  The  laigest  store  in  the  state  is  believed 
to  be  one  of  these,  which  is  90  feet  by  70,  and  3  sto- 
ries high.  The  township  was  found  to  contain  6000 
inhabitants  that  year,  and  has  greatly  improved  since. 

The  harbour  of  Buffalo  is  sinffularly  fitted  by  nature 
for  the  junction  of  the  two  kinds  of  navigation  which 
are  here  brought  together ;  the  entrance  from  the 
lake  being  sheltered  by  the  point  on  which  the  light- 
house is  erected,  and  the  two  small  rivers  which  here 
unite  then*  waters,  affording  every  convenience  for 
landing  and  reshipping  gooas.  The  shores  of  these 
are  very  bold,  and  they  are  connected  by  a  natural 
channel,  which  serves  the  purposes  of  a  basin,  as  well 
as  of  an  easy  communication ;  and  as  the  canal  to 
Black  Rock  commences  close  by  it,  the  inland  trans- 
portation begins  without  more  ado.  Sixty  vessels 
traded  with  Buffalo  in  1827,  mcluding the  steamboats; 
of  which  number  7  were  Canadian.  The  steamboat 
Pioneer  plied  to  Dunkirk,  and  the  Chippewa  to  Chip- 
pewa. About  30,000  barrels  of  salt  were  shipped  for 
the  westward  during  that  year.  The  United  States 
are  improving  the  harbour. 

The  water  of  the  Creek  was  brought  into  the  vil- 
lage, in  1827,  from  above  the  falls,  by  a  canal  Smiles 
long,  which  will  supply  a  head  of  water  for  machi- 
nery.   A  steam  foundry  is  in  operation  in  this  town. 

The  Caned  to  Black  R&ck  is  dug  near  the  shore  of 

*the  lake.     The  Erie  Canal  is  supplied  with  water 

l^nce  to  the  Seneca  River,  from  Lake  Erie.    The  first 


To  vagi:    up    L.VKE    liBtE. 


]li 


part  ot  it  is  through  a  low,  sandy  level,  where  tlif\ 
excavations  were  much  impeded  by  the  water  which 
soaked  through  in  great  abundance.  About  hak*  a 
mile  from  Buffalo,  the  workmen  bit  upon^a  bed  of  old 
half-decayed  trees,  which  was  dug  into  to  the  depth 
of  six  feet,  and  extended  about  half  a  mile.  Many 
branches  and  logs  were  discovered,  which  preserved 
all  tlie  grain  of  the  wood  ;  but  the  greater  part  was  a 
black  mass  of  matter,  which,  on  being  dried,  burned 
with  greater  readiness.  In  some  places,  ashes  and 
coals  were  found  ;  and  some  of  the  logs  appeared  to 
have  been  washed  and  rolled  by  the  water  of  the  lake 
before  they  were  buried. 

Chattmque  Lake.  A  steamboat  of  50  tons  began  to 
run  on  this  lake  in  1828.  It  performs  the  route  from 
Jamestown  to  Maysville  in  3  hours. 

(For  remarks  on  the  Erie  Canal  see  Albany,) 

VOYAGE  UP  LAKE  ERIE. 

At  Buffalo  opens  a  very  extensive  route,  for  those 
who  are  disposed  to  travel  still  farther  westward. 
There  is  little  to  be  seen  along  either  shore  of  the 
lake,  which  would  reward  the  common  traveller  for 
the  tecUum  of  a  k>ng  ride  over  a  country  generally 
level,  or  for  the  inconveniences  he  would  experience 
from  want  <»f  public  accommodations,  and  even  the 
ffeqaent  absence  of  settlements.  The  price  of  a  pas- 
sage to  Detroit  in  the  cabin  is  ^15,  and  in  the  steerage, 
where  nothing  is  supplied  but  ship  room  and  access  to 
the  kitchen,  half  price.  The  following  are  the  stop- 
ping places  on  the  passage  to  Detroit,  with  their  dis- 
tances ;  and  steamboats  run  almost  every  day.  (See 
Ohio  Canaif  Inder^.) 
From  Buffalo  to  Erie, 90  miles 

Krie  to  Grand  River, .75 

Grand  River  to  Cleaveland,     ...  30 
i    Cleaveland  to  Sandusky,     ....  60  * 

Sandusky  to  Detroit, 76-Total  330 


! 


.Ilt> 


ROVVK    inoyi    MAUAUA    TO    ALBAAV. 


The  United  Slates' govermiient  are  improving  seve- 
ral oH  these  liarbours,  as  tliere  is  not  a  natural  one  be- 
tween Buffalo  and  Sandusky.  In  18:^7,  there  were 
476  arrivals  at  the  latter  port.  The  American  Fur 
Company  bring  down  $^250,000  to  g300,000  in  furs. 

The  steamboat  Pioneer  runs  from  Buffalo  to  Dun- 
kirk, connecting  with  the  stage  coaches  to  (^leave- 
land,  which  divide  there,  and  go  south  to  Worcester 
and  to  Newburg:h,  and  west  to  Milan  and  Lower 
Sandusky.  At  Dunkirk  begins  a  portage  of  7  miles  to 
Casdaga  lake,  and  the  waters  of  the  Ohio  river. 

Michigan  is  a  territory  fast  rising  in  population, 
wealth,  and  importance.  A  large  branch  of^  the  tide  of 
emigration  from  the  eastern  states  and  New- York  has 
been  turned  in  that  direction,  and  still  turther  west, 
encouraged  by  the  judicious  system  adopted  by  the 
government  of  the  United  Stales,  in  selling  the  land 
at  reasonable  prices  for  cash.  Experience  has  proved, 
in  other  public  lands,  the  difficulties  that  must  ever 
arise  from  credits  to  settlers,  even  with  nominally  high 
prices.  The  sober,  industrious,  and  frugal  can  gene- 
rally produce  or  borrow  money  enough  to  purchase  a 
small  farm  ;  and  then  they  have  many  encouragements 
to  exertion,  which  a  wretched  population  in  debt 
would  never  feel.  There  may  be  seen  a  state  of 
things  similar  to  that  witnessed  in  Ohio  twenty  or 
thirty  years  ago ;  and  in  that  length  of  time  it  is  pre- 
sumed that  changes  no  less  important  will  be  pre- 
sented in  Michigan. 

The  surface  and  soil  are  favourable  to  cultivation. 
There  is  a  succession  of  gentle  undulations,  gradually 
rising  towards  the  interior ;  and  the  regularity  of  the 
ground,  with  the  remarkably  open  nature  of  the  forests, 
it  is  said,  permit  carriages  to  travel  for  hundreds  of 
miles  without  meeting  any  obstacle.  It  has  been  prO' 
posed  to  avoid  the  long  circumnavigation  of  the  whole 
peninsula,  by  making  a  canal  across  the  neck. 

Oreen  Bay y  on  Lake  Huron,  is  interesting  as  a  posi- 
tion occupied  by  a  military  garrison,  and  the  seat  of  a 


ANCIENT    FOUTlFICATIONg. 


113 


ty  or 
pre- 
pre- 


posi- 
of  a 


large  number  of  Indians,  for  whose  improvement  some 
exertions  have  been  recently  made.  The  principal 
tribe  residing  there  are  the  Menominie,  or  IVild  Rice 
Indians,  who  are  both  numerous  and  powerful,  and 
partly  civilized. 

The  Fox  river,  which  empties  into  Green  Bay,  flows 
through  a  very  fertile  country ;  and  the  time  is  not 
very  lar  distant  when  the  head  waters  of  the  stream 
will  be  united  by  a  canal  with  the  Ouisconsin,  which 
flows  into  the  Mississippi.  The  climate  of  Green  Bay 
is  remarkably  healthful.  The  lead  mines  on  Fevre 
river  are  now  wrought  by  about  five  thousand  men. 

The  following  are  the  boundaries  of  the  proposed 
new  territory,  to  be  called  Huron  :  from  the  north-east 
corner  of  the  state  of  Illinois,  northwardly,  clown  the 
middle  of  Lake  Michigan,  to  the  "  Big  Fox  Island ;" 
and  thence,  due  north  to  the  Canada  line,  or  north- 
wardly, down  the  middle  of  the  lake,  and  through  the 
straits,  east  and  south  of  the  "  Bois  Blanc  Island,"  lO 
the  Canada  line. 

Ancient  Fortifications. 

On  Buffalo  Creek,  and  towards  Genesee  Kiver  also, 
are  several  large  and  interesting  remnants  of  ancient 
fortifications  ;  but  as  they  lie  off  the  road,  few  travel- 
lers will  visit  them.  They  appear  to  form  part  of  a 
great  chain  of  defensive  works  extending  irom  the 
eastern  part  of  Lnke  Ontario,  along  that  lake  and  Erie, 
down  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  rivers  to  Mexico.  This 
is  the  opinion  of  Mr.  Atwater,  of  Circleville,  Ohio, 
who  has  published  some  very  interesting  details, 
drawings,  &c.  connected  with  them,  in  his  "  Archae- 
olc^ia  Americana."  A  line  of  old  torts  extends  from 
Cataraugus  Creek,  50  miles,  along  the  shore  of  Lake 
Erie,  to  the  line  of  Pennsylvania.  They  are  on  the 
borders  of  creeks  and  old  bays,  although  now  from 
two  to  five  miles  distant  from  the  lake,  which  is  sup- 
posed to  have  retired  that  distance  since  they  were 


I 


114 


RUlTi,    IKOAI    MACiAK A    TU    ALHANV 


built.     Another  similar  line  is  said  to  exist  in  the  reai 
ol'them,  on  another  parallel  elevation. 

Much  curiosity  and  speculation  have  been  called 
forth  by  these  sins^ular  monuments  of  antiquity.    Some 
reo^ard  them  as  marks  of  a  civilized  people ;  others 
as  the  works  of  Indian  tribes.     Some  traces  of  a  tra- 
dition referring  them  to  the  latter,  are  said  to  have 
been  lately  discovered. 
Seneca  Castle. — The  Seneca  nation  possess  a  laree 
*  and  valuable  tract  of  land  adjoining  Buffalo,  on  the 
east,  and  they  have  two  villages  three  and  five  miles 
on  the  road.    The  Senecas  are  the  westernmost  tribe 
in  the  confederacy  of  the  Five  Nations,  and  have  al- 
ways held  a  conspicuous  rank  in  their  history.     They 
were  formerly  considered   the   most   numerous  and 
powerful  tribe,  and  preserved  this  superiority  until  the 
fatal  defeat  they  received  from  General  Schuyler,  in 
1778,  since  which  they  have  made  a  less  conspicuous 
%ure. 

Besides  the  land  thej  possess,  which  is  remarkable 
for  its  fertility,  the  nation  are  in  possession  of  a  lar^e 
suni  in  the  United  States'  Bank  stock,  the  dividend  tor 
which  they  receive  annually. 

The  traveller  will  observe  several  farms  under  a 
degree  of  cultivation,  and  may  meet  with  individuals 
who  conform  pretty  nearly  to  the  English  style  of 
dress,  and  have  introduced  some  of  our  customs  into 
their  houses.  The  greater  part  of  them,  however, 
speak  no  language  but  Indian. 

Stage  Road  from  Buffalo  to  Canandaigua. 

The  first  few  miles  of  this  road  present  very  little 
interest ;  15  or  20  miles  of  it  were  formerly  remarkable 
as  passing  over  an  old  causeway  of  logs.  The  logs 
made  the  travelling  rough  and  disagreeable ;  but  as 
thejr  are  gradually  covered  over  with  earth,  the  diffi- 
culties are  lessening  every  year.  To  those  who  are 
|K)t  siccH^tpqeed  to  a  country  so  new  and  wild  as  this^ 


are 


{ i  lu^  Li  lii:  311:  A  in »  \n  s. 


1U 


u  word  or  two  may  not  be  amiss  on  tlie  manner  in 
which  roads  are  first  made  in  an  American  settlement. 
In  thick  forests,  the  surface  of  the  ground  is  covered 
to  the  depth  of  one  or  two  feet  witli  the  roots  of  trees, 
which  are  extremely  difficult  to  be  removed,  and  are 
very  dangerous  for  Ijorses  or  oxen  io  pass  over.  A  close 
layer  of  logs,  ahhough  itself  sufficiently  rough,  forms 
a  much  safer  and  more  convenient  path,  and  is  usuall> 
adopted  with  great  advantage.  There  is  another 
reason  for  it — the  elevation  of  tie  road  above  the 
common  surface,  secures  it  from  being  overflowed  by 
the  water,  which  in  the  moist  seasons  of  the  year 
would  impede  the  travelling:  in  low  and  marshy  places. 

Batavia,  40  miles  from  Buffalo,  is  a  very  handsome 
village,  and  contains  the  residence  of  the  present  and 
former  agents  of  the  Holland  Land  Company,  (Messrs. 
Evans  and  Otto,)  as  well  as  the  county  buildings.* 

Leroy,  10  miles. 

[Springs.  In  Avon,  2|  miles  from  the  road  through 
that  village,  are  8  or  10  springs,  where  are  boardir^ 
houses.] 

The  Wadsvcorth  Farm,  at  Geneseo,  contains  about 
4000  acres,  about  1700  of  which  are  rich  alluvial  land 
on  the  banks  of  the  Genesee  river  Various  branches 
of  agriculture  have  been  tried  on  this  fertile  tract  of 
country  ;  but  the  raising  of  sheep  has  been  found  the 
most  profitable,  and  the  farm  has  been  almost  entirely 
converted  into  mowing  fields  and  pastures.  The 
number  of  sheep,  in  ^827,  was  computed  at  13,000. 
The  residence  of  the  proprietor  is  in  a  fine  and  spa- 
cious building,  in  a  commanding  situation  ;  and  the 
whole  aspect  of  the  farm  indicates  the  good  order  and 
method  with  which  it  is  conducted.  Mr.  Rogers  has 
a  very  fine  farm  in  Moscow. 

The  Genesee  meadows  were  formerly  the  residence 
of  a  large  tribe  of  Indians  of  the  Seneca  nation ;  and 
when  Gen.  Sullivan  reached  this  place,  in  his  march 

*   Stage  coaches  rim  from.  Bitavia  to  Rochester. 


ilG 


i(i>UTK    tROM    MAiiXUA    lO    AL»AM. . 


through  Ihc  country,  he  round  and  burnt  a  viilare  oi 
120  log  houses,  on  the  second  bank,  which  had  been 
deserted  at  his  approach.  One  of  his  scouts  was  cut 
off  while  his  army  was  near  the  west  bank  of  the 
river,  and  only  one  man  escaped  ;  but  the  Indians 
constantly  fled  as  he  approached,  and  there  was  no 
fighting  in  all  this  western  part  of  the  state. 

The  remains  of  a  mammoth  were  dug  up  about 
half  a  mile  from  the  village  of  Genesee  in  1835. 
There  were  8  teeth  and  grinders,  parts  of  a  tusk,  a 
thigh  bone  3  feet  long,  the  lower  bone  of  the  leg  3 
feet  (J  inches,  &c.  They  lay  between  strata  of  vege- 
table mould  and  sand. 

West  Bloomfield,  beyond  the  Genesee  river,  is  one 
of  the  finest  agricultural  townships  in  the  state,  and 
presents  a  succession  of  beautiful  farms,  tilled  with 
care  and  yielding  the  finest  crops.  Fruit  thrives  re- 
markably well  in  all  this  western  country,  as  the 
slightest  attention  to  the  orchards  will  sufficiently 
prove  ;  and  while  in  smoothness  and  neatness  the  fields 
rival  those  of  the  oldest  districts  farther  east,  the  or- 
chards exceed  them  in  luxuriance  and  product.  The 
black  apple  is  a  species  of  fruit  which  has  been  said 
to  be  peculiar  to  this  region. 

East  Bloomfield  is  the  next  village  ;  and  the  &:eneral 
remarks  just  made,  may  with  justice  be  applied  to 
this  place  also. 

CANANDAIGUA. 

Imu    Blosson[i's  Stage  House. 

This  is  one  of  the  finest  vyestern  towns,  and  its  prin- 
cipal street  runs  along  the  ridge  of  a  commanding  hill, 
rising  from  the  north  end  of  Canandaigua  Lake.  It 
is  wide,  and  contains  an  academy,  and  many  hand- 
some bouses,  particularly  that  of  the  late  Gideon 
Granger.  The  road,  in  passing  Canandaigua  Lake, 
commands  a  finer  view  than  on  any  of  the  other  lakes 
it  passes,  except  Skeneateles.  The  banks  are  high 
and  variegated,  and  at  the  distance  of  two  or  three 


age  oi 
been 
as  cut 
Df  the 
idians 
as  no 

about 
1825. 
usk,  a 
leg  3 
vege- 

s  one 

,  and 

with 

Rs  re- 

s  the 

ientlv 

fields 

le  or- 

The 

said 

meral 
ed  to 


pnn- 
?hill, 
J.  It 
band- 
ideon 
Lake, 
lakes 

high 
three 


JVi'tfh 


:ih 


u» 


i 


'"5> 


gree  c 
raen's 
little  V 
rocky 
their  v 
van  ac 
The 
10  run 
u  hotel 
Annesl 
out  Ihe 
theCa 


.'ue  qui 

daiffua. 

The 

slate,  fi 

^  Thei 

few  fee 

of  a  da 

way  to 

currentj 

a  stead; 

the  snoi 

interesti 

in  conta 

iher,  it 

currents 

\vater  c 

^leight  c 

lops;  tl 

'Onting 

ibrmer. 

From 


Scehtr 


JUtKAiiSG   Sl'Ki.NGa. 


117 


uiilija,  rise  to  an  imposing  height,  and  add  a  great  de- 
gree of  beauty  to  the  scene.  A  number  of  gentle- 
men's seats  are  seen  along  the  western  bank ;  and  a 
little  way  off  in  the  lake  on  the  same  side,  is  a  small 
rocky  island,  where  the  Seneca  Indians  carried  all 
their  women,  children,  and  old  men,  when  Gen.  Sulli- 
van appeared  against  them.  ♦ 

The  new  steamboat  Lady  of  the  Lake  began 
10  run  regularly  on  Canandaig:ua  Lake  in  18537  ;  and 
u  hotel  was  to  oe  built  at  the  head  of  it.  It  is  on  the 
Annesley  plan — that  is,  built  entirely  of  boards  with- 
out the  use  of  timbers. — A  railroad  is  to  be  made  to 
the  Canal. 

Stage  coaches  go  to  Rochester  every  day. 

BURNING  SPRINGS. 

Springs  of  water,  charged  with  inflammable  gas, 
iive  quite  common  in  Bristol,  Middlesex,  and  Canan- 
daigua. 

The  gas  from  the  former  rises  through  fissures  of  the 
^late,  from  both  the  margin  and  the  bed  of  the  brook. 

Their  places  are  known  by  the  little  hillocks  of  a 
few  feet  in  diameter,  and  a  few  inches  high,  formed 
of  a  dark  bituminous  kriould,  through  which  it  finds  its 
way  to  the  surface,  in  one  or  more  currents.  These 
currents  of  gas  may  be  set  on  fire,  and  will  burn  with 
a  steady  flame.  In  winter  they  form  ope  nings  through 
the  snow,  and  being  set  on  fire,  exhibit  the  novel  and 
interesting  phenomenon  of  a  steady  and  lively  flame 
in  contact  with  nothing  but  snow.  In  very  cold  wea- 
ther, it  is  said,  tubes  of  ice  are  formed  round  these 
currents  of  gas,  (probably  from  the  freezing  of  ihe 
water  contained  in  it,)  which  sometimes  rise  to  the 
lieight  of  two  or  three  feet,  the  gas  issuing  from  their 
I  ops  ;  the  whole,  when  lighted  in  a  still  evening,  pre- 
senting an  appearance  even  more  beautiful  than  the 
ibrmer. 

Frnm  a  pit  winch  was  sunk  in  one  of  tbo  hillocks, 


iSefktr 


JIU 


KOLTii    IKOJi    KIAtiAltA    TO   ALBAM . 


the  gas  was  conducted  through  bored  logs,  to  the  kitchen 
of  a  dwelling.  The  novelty  of  the  spectacle  attracted 
a  concourse  of  visiters,  so  great  that  the  proprietors 
found  it  expedient  to  convert  their  dwelling  into 
a  public  inn. 

The  road  between  Canandaigua  and  Geneva  passes 
over  a  singular  tract  of  country,  the  form  of  which 
will  not  fail  to  be  remarked  by  an  observant  traveller- 
The  ground  gradually  rises  by  large  natural  terraces, 
or  steps,  for  about  half  the  distance,  and  descends  in 
the  same  manner  on  the  other  side  to  Seneca  Lake. 
These  steps,  or  terraces,  appear  to  have  been  formed 
by  those  strong  currents  of  water  of  which  geologists 
speak,  which  at  some  ancient  period  of  time  have  evi- 
dently passed  over  many  tracts  of  country  in  different 
parts  of  the  world.  The  ridges  and  channels  thus 
formed  here  stretch  north  and  south,  frequently  to  a 
considerable  distance,  corresponding  both  in  form  and 
direction  with  the  numerous  lakes  which  are  found  in 
this  part  of  the  state.  Several  ancient  fortifications 
have  been  traced  here.  From  the  middle  ridge  the 
view  is  extensive ;  but  the  surrounding  country  is  of 
too  uniform  a  surface  to  present  any  remarkable  variety 
of  scenery. 

GENEVA. 

This  town  occupies  a  charming  situation  at  the  foot 
of  Seneca  Lake,  and  for  a  mile  alon^  its  western  bank, 
which  rises  to  a  considerable  elevation  above  the  sur- 
face, and  affords  room  for  a  broad  and  level  street. 
The  buildings  in  this  village  are  remarkably  neat  and 
handsome. 

A  college  has  lately  been  instituted  in  this  place. 
The  building  is  of  stone,  with  26  rooms  for  students,  a 
chapel,  and  library.  It  is  warmed  only  by  stoves. 
Rev.  J.  Adams  is  president. 

The  steamboat  Seneca  Chief,  in  1829,  ran  daily  to 
.leffersonville,  (at  the  head  of  the  lake,)  and  back 
ag'ain,  offering;  the  travellci  ar.  aacreeable  excursion 


.'■r,-^ 


«iEM:VA. 


119 


kitchen 
tracted 
)rietors 
ig  into 

passes 
which 
iveller. 
irraces, 
Bnds  in 
I  Lake, 
formed 
ologists 
ive  evi- 
iifferent 
h  thus 
ly  to  a 
rm  and 
ound  in 
ications 
ige  the 
y  is  of 
variety 


the  foot 
n  bank, 
the  sur- 
street, 
eat  and 

!  place. 

dents,  a 

stoves. 

laily  to 
d  Back 


Dresden  and  Ovid,  12  miles  from  Geneva,  are  op- 
posite each  other.  The  former  stands  at  the  outlet  of 
Crooked  Lake.  The  Penyan  descends  nearly  400 
feet,  affordins^  excellent  mill  seals.  South  from  this  is 
the  former  abode  of  Jemima  Wilkinson. 

Strakie^s  Point  is  6^  miles  south  of  RapeJyea's  Ferry. 
The  shore  is  there  very  bold,  so  that  the  Seneca  Chief 
can  pass  within  a  few  feet  of  the  land.  Much  lumber 
is  exported  from  this  place,  brought  from  Eddystown, 
which  is  a  mile  inland. 

Big  Stream  Point,  4  miles.  Here  is  a  fall  in  a  tri- 
bf:'^ry  of  this  beautiful  lake,  of  136  feet,  by  whicli 
several  mills  are  supplied. 

The  eastern  shore  is  generally  handsomely  culti- 
vated ;  but  near  the  head  of  the  lake,  on  the  western 
side,  about  15  miles  of  the  shore  is  covered  with  forest. 
The  land  rises,  and  becomes  rough  and  hilly. 

Hectares  Falls,  3  miles  from  the  lake,  are  150  feet 
in  height,  and  supply  several  mills.  Jeffersonville  and 
Havana  are  two  villages  at  the  head  of  the  lake. 

[Travelling  southward  from  Geneva,  A  line  of  stage 
coaches  goes,  in  connexion  with  the  steamboat,  from 
Geneva,  eveiy  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  via 
Bath,  Painted  Post,  Lawrenceville,  Willardsburg,  Ca- 
nal Port  to  Trout  Run,  and  via  Elmira  and  Troy  to 
Trout  Run,  on  the  other  days  of  the  week — and  daily, 
(except  Sundays,)  from  Trout  Run  through  Williams- 
port,  Pennsborough,  Milton,  Northumberland,  Sunbuiy, 
Selinsgrove,  Liverpool  to  Harrisburg.  From  Hams- 
burg  a  line  runs  every  day  through  to  Philadelphia— 
and  one  daily,  (except  Sundays,)  to  Baltimore  and 
Washington  City — through  in  jive  days.  Returns  in 
the  same  way.  At  Northumberland  it  mtersects  a  line 
that  runs  three  times  a  week  to  Wilkesbarre  :  at  Wil- 
liamsport,  a  line  that  runs  to  Bellefonte,  Alexandria, 
and  intersects  the  Pittsburg  line  :  at  Elmira  it  intersects 
a  line  running  to  Ithaca,  Owego  and  Montrose  :  at 
Bath,  a  line  to  Angelica  and  Olean  Point,  and  one  to 
Dsnsville,  Geneseo,  Rochester,  Buffalo,  and  Niagara 


!KI 


ii 


I 


■| 


)■ ' 


liiO 


KOtTE    i^KOM    IMAGAKA    TO   ALBANY. 


I        4 


Falls.  At  Geneva,  this  line  intersects  4  daily  linc^ 
runninp^  east  and  west,  and  also  3  daily  lines  running 
north  to  the  Erie  canal. 

The  journey  from  Geneva  or  Rochester  to  Baltimore, 
is  performed  by  this  line  in  five  dajrs,  by  daylight, 
passing  through  a  fine,  healthy,  and  highly  cultivated 
country,  travelling  upwards  of*  100  miles  on  the  beau- 
tiful banks  of  the  Susquehannah,  and  about  50  mile? 
on  the  bank  of  the  Pennsylvania  canal.] 

Seneca  Lake  is  35  miles  lor  1^,  and  about  3  or  4  wide. 
Its  depth  is  unusually  great,  und  the  water  clear  and 
very  cold,  to  which  is  referred  the  scarcity  of  fish. 
There  is  a  remarkable  phenomenon  long  observed  by 
those  who  reside  near  it,  which  has  never  been  satis- 
factorily accounted  for.  The  water  has  a  regular  risc3 
and  fall  every  seven  years. 

The  Chemung  Canal  is  to  be  made  from  the  head  wa- 
ters of  this  lake  to  the  Chemung  river,  with  a  feeder. 

A  stage  coach  runs  from  Geneva  up  the  east  side  of 
the  lake,  and  then  crosses  to  the  head  of  Cayuga  lake, 
to  the  village  of  Ithaca  ;  but  the  road  is  not  interesting, 
and  the  more  agreeable  mode  of  reaching  that  village 
is  by  taking  the  steamboat  at  Cayuga  bridge,  14  miles 
from  Geneva,  on  the  great  mail  route. 

The  Cayuga  and  Seneca  Canal,  which  was  com- 
pleted in  1828,  has  opened  boat  navigation  between 
these  lakes  and  the  Erie  canal,  and  a  packet  line  was 
to  run  to  Troy,  early  in  1829. 

The  Cayuga  and  Seneca  Canal  passes  through  Wa- 
terloo, froTn  Geneva  down  the  valley  of  Seneca  River 
to  Montezuma,  on  the  Erie  canal.  It  is  20  miles  and 
!24  chains  in  length,  of  which  ten  miles  is  an  inde- 
pendent canal,  and  the  remainder  a  slack  water  navi- 
gation. It  has  7  locks,  being  73 i.  feet  lockage,  H) 
bridges,  5  safety  gates,  5  dams,  6  culverts,  17  miles  of 
fence,  3  lock  houses,  and  1  collector's  office. 

Cayuga  Lake  is  40  miles  in  length,  and  generally 
about  2  in  breadth.  A  fine  bridge  is  built  across  it 
near  the  northern  end,  where  it  is  a  mile  wide.    Thfv 


y  line- 
Linning 

imoro, 

ylight. 

ivated 

beau- 

niilos 

wide, 
r  and 
f  fish, 
ed  by 
salis- 
ar  rise 

d  wa- 

jder. 

iide  of 

L  ]akc, 

isting-, 

illagc 

miles 

com- 
ween 

was 

Wa- 
iiver 
5  and 
indo- 
navi" 
-J  1.' 
esof 

rally 

)ss  it 

ThB 


jyi'rrh 


\ 

; 
I 


.  FfOswegfo 

O   S   H'  E    C    O 


H^-hir 


c? 


ivei'i^ 


!anilllu.s" 


(A 


I 


M.;..f 


ITHACA   AND   OSWEGO    RAILROAD. 


121 


steamboats  Telemachus  and  Experiment  ply  bet  wren 
Cayuga  bridge  and  Ithaca,  at  the  head  of  the  lake. 
The  rormer  is  on  Annesley's  plan,  and  carries  only 
passengers.  The  De  Wilt  Clinton  is  a  new  boat,  on 
the  same  plan  ;  100  feet  long,  with  three  cabins,  a 
promenade,  large  enough  to  accommodate  a  con- 
siderable number  of  passengers,  and  is  frequently 
crowded  with  parties  from  the  neighbouring  country, 
as  well  as  travellers,  as  the  excursion  is  one  of  the 
pleasantest  that  can  be  taken  in  this  part  of  the  state. 
It  also  connects  several  lines  of  stage  coaches,  which 
the  traveller  will  do  well  to  notice  if  he  wishes  to  go 
to  Catskill,  JVewburg,  New-York,  or  New-Jersey^  by 
the  most  direct  routes.  These  routes  will  be  noticed 
on  arriving  at  Ithaca. 

The  price  of  a  passage  in  the  steamboat  is  one 
dollar.  A  little  before  arriving  at  the  head  of  the  lake, 
a  beautiful  waterfall  is  seen  on  the  left  hand,  where  a 
stream  of  water  flows  over  a  very  high  precipice  into 
a  deep  glen,  and  forces  its  way  along,  turning  several 
valuable  mills  in  its  course.  The  landing  place  is 
about  three  miles  from  the  village  of  Ithaca,  but  lumber 
boats  can  pass  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  inlet,  and 
proceed  up  to  the  street. 

The  village  of  Ithaca  is  neat  and  flourishing.  Here 
centre  three  roads  to  Catskill,  Newburg,  and  New- 
York,  The  first  leads  nearly  in  a  direct  line  to  the 
Hudson  River,  the  second  passes  the  Great  Bend  of 
the  Delaware,  and  the  third  furnishes  daily  the  shortest 
route  io  New- York. 

The  Cascade,  This  beautiful  and  romantic  scene, 
about  3  miles  from  the  village,  is  one  of  the  most  pic- 
turesque that  can  be  imagined.  The  height  and  so- 
lemnity of  the  surrounding  rocks,  the  darkness  of  their 
shadows,  and  the  beauty  of  the  sparkling  spray,  unite 
to  produce  an  impression  of  pleasure  whicn  is  rarely 
experienced  at  the  sight  of  any  scene,  however  extra- 
orainary  for  beauty  or  sublimity.  The  Fall  river  de- 
?^rends  4.38  feet  in  a  mile.    The  Great  Fal]  is  1 16  feet, 

Tv  2 


!1 
\ 


li- 


lt 


)22         ROUTE    rUOAI   KIAtiAKA    JO    ALBAKi. 


! 


' 


The   other  falls  in  this  vicinity  are  the  Cascadilliu 
Tauqkanic,  (262  feet,)  Six  Mile  creek,  Buttermilk,  &c. 

Ithaca  ana  Oswego  Railroad.  The  legislature,  in 
1828,  passed  an  act  authorizing  the  construction  of  a 
railroad  from  this  place  to  the  Susquehannah  river  at 
Oswego.  The  distance  is  about  30  miles  ;  the  expense 
is  estimated  at  $1*20,000,  or  $4,000  a  mile.  This  is 
one-fourth  more  than  the  Mauch  Chunk  railway  cost, 
and  the  sane  price  as  that  estimated  for  the  Hudson 
and  Delaware  Railway,  the  rails  for  which  have  been 
imported  from  England.  The  soil  and  surface  arc 
favourable ;  labour  and  materials  cheap ;  and  the 
amount  of  produce  which  would  pass  that  way  from 
the  neighbouring  country,  is  estimated  at  12,000  tons 
annually,  which  alone  would  pay  16  per  cent,  on  the 
cost.  To  this  ought  to  be  added  about  10,000  tons  of 
plaster  and  salt.  The  market  for  lumber  is  best  at 
New-Y"ork.  500  tons  of  plaster  and  salt  are  now 
annually  transported  from  Ithaca  to  Oswego  by  land, 
and  sent  down  the  Susquehannah. 

In  consequence  of  the  earlier  opening  of  navigation 
on  the  Susquehannah,  in  the  spring,  than  on  the  Erie 
canal,  and  its  bein?  closed  later  in  the  fall,  great  ad- 
vantages, it  is  thought,  would  be  obtained  by  Balti- 
more ;  and  even  the  fact  that  the  navigation  is  longer 
free  on  the  western  than  the  eastern  part  of  that  canal 
every  year,  would  probably  divert  a  considerable 
amount  of  transportation  to  this  route.  It  is  stated 
thrU  the  freight  of  a  barrel  of  whiskey  or  pork  from 
Ithaca  to  Baltimore,  would  be  only  92  cents  ;  while 
it  is  $1  19  to  New-York  by  the  Erie  canal. 

The  Cayuga  and  Susquehannah  Canal,  The  route 
proposed  is  Irom  Cayuga  lake,  near  the  mouth  of 
Case  tdilla,  through  Ithaca,  along  Mud  Creek  and  the 
valley  of  the  Oswego,  to  the  Susquehannah.  The 
amount  of  lockage  is  760  feet ;  the  distance  31  miles  ; 
and  the  estimated  expense  320,000  dollars. 

Auburn  is  another  beautiful  village,  and  merits  the 
name  it  has  borrowed  from  Goldsmith's  charming 


STATE   PBISUJV. 


12r> 


poetry.  It  is  unfortunately  placed  at  some  distance 
from  the  lake,  and  therefore  is  deprived  of  the  pic- 
turesque character  which  it  might  have  enjoyed. 
There  is  a  Theological  Seminary  in  Auburn,  which  has  a 
good  number  of  students.  There  are  several  handsome 
public  buildings  in  this  place,  but  the  most  importnnt 
i<5  the 


State  Prison. 


.'•«! 


This  institution,  having  been  managed  by  Mr.  Lynds, 
and  established  on  his  system,  so  excellent,  so  cele- 
brated, and  with  remarkable  success,  merits  particular 
notice. 

The  old  Auburn  prison  was  built  in  1817,  and  cost 
about  $300,000  ;  it  is  constructed  upon  the  plan  of  a 
hollow  square,  inclosed  by  a  wall  of  2000  feet  m  extent, 
being  500  ieet  on  each  side,  and,  for  the  most  part,  35 
feet  in  height.  The  north  wing  of  the  building  differs 
very  much  in  its  construction  from  any  building  of  the 
kind,  afid  the  use  of  which  is  conceived  to  be  one  of 
the  greatest  improvements  in  prisons,  and  one  of  the 
best  aids  to  prison  discipline,  which  have  been  any 
where  niade.  The  workshops  are  built  against  the 
inside  of  the  outer  wall,  fronting  towards  the  yard, 
from  which  every  shop  is  visible,  forming  a  contmued 
range  of  940  feet.  With  such  alterations  as  it  may 
undeigo,  it  can  be  made  to  hold  1100  convicts.  At 
the  close  of  1829,  it  contained  639. 

**  The  new  building  contains  400  cells,  and  covers  only 
206  by  46  feet  of  ground.  There  are  5  stories  of  cells, 
each  containing  eighty  in  two  parallel  lines,  divided 
in  the  middle  by  a  wall  two  feet  thick.  The  walls 
between  the  cells  are  one  foot  thick.  The  cells 
are  7  feet  long,  7  high,  and  3^  wide,  intended  to  re- 
ceive only  one  convict  in  each.  Each  cell  has  a  ven- 
tilator extending  to  the  roof,  and  is  so  constructed  in 
front,  that. the  prisoners  can  neither  converse  or  make 
signs  to  each  othej.     The  ayea  around  the  cells  is  ten 


f 


>■■ 


|h 


124 


HOUTJK    FROM    THrAGAKA   TO   ALBAKT. 


feet  wide  and  open  to  the  roof,  which  covers  the  galle- 
ries of  the  several  stories.  Besides  the  moral  benefit 
arising  from  keeping  the  'isoners  separate,  it  unites 
that  01  economy  and  securit  .  From  the  construction  ot 
the  prison,  5  small  stoves,  6  large  and  12  small  lamps,  all 
out  of  reach  of  the  convicts,  afford  heat  and  li^ht  to  555 
cells  ;  and  one  sentinel  is  sufficient  to  400  prisoners. 

The  discipline  only  requires  to  be  seen  to  be  duly 
appreciated.  The  conduct  of  the  prisoners  while  at 
their  labour,  and  their  quietness  under  ihe  privations 
of  the  prison,  prove  that  the  discipline  is  complete 
and  effective  ;  and  the  main  cause  of  the  order  and 
decorum  thus  observed,  is,  that  in  all  matters  of  disci^ 
pline,  there  is  but  one  head  or  principal." 

Minute  observations  on  the  comparative  labour  of 
a  free  person  and  a  convict  show  that  the  latter  does 
not  accomplish  as  much  in  a  day  as  the  former.  In 
this  prison,  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Lynds,  (now 
superintendent  of  the  Singsing  prison,)  the  great  system 
of  reformation  in  discipline  commenced. 

The  pardoning  power  is  now  exercised  with  great 
caution  by  the  executive  ;  for  perhaps  no  circumstance 
has  so  much  contributed  to  do  awav  the  terrors  of 
punishment  as  the  facilities  afforded  tne  worst  part  of 
our  species  in  obtaining  a  pardon. 

Ancient  Fortifications,     There  are  some  remains  of 
ancient  fortifications  in  the  vicinity  of  this  place,  as 
well  as  in  the  neighbouring  towns  of  Camillus,  Onon- 
daga, and  Pomney. 

if  the  traveller  should  wish  to  take  the  canal,  a 
stage  coach  goes  every  day  to  Weed's  Basin,  8  miles, 
and  carries  passengers  tor  50  cents,  to  meet  the  canal 
boats,  which  pass  at  stated  periods. 

FROM  AUBURN  TO  SYRACUSE, 

By  the  Canal,  34  miles. 

(Stage  coach  to  Weed's  Basin,)       .    •    ,    .  8  miles» 
Jordan  village,  in  Camillus  township,       .    .  fi 


see 


# 


I'BOM   SVUACUSi:   TO   UTICA.  I'io 

A  proposition  has  been  made  for  a  canal  from 
Jordan  to  Homer,  on  the  Susquehannah, 
which  has  been  found  practicable.  The  dis- 
tance is  34  miles,  of  which,  only  14  will  re- 
quire to  be  dug. 

Canton,  (half-wajr  village  between Buflalo  and 
Albany,  179  miles  from  the  former,  and  183 
from  the  latter,) 6  milo5>. 

Geddes  village,  (with  salt  works,)       .     .      12 

Syracuse, 2 

By  tfie  Road,  28  miles. 

Skeneateles, D 

Marcellus,       6 

Onondaga, 10 

Syracuse, 4 

Syracuse,  For  a  description  of  this  place,  as  well 
as  of  Salina,  the  Salt  Spring,  and  Salt  Manufactories, 
see  page  69. 

Although  the  routes  east  of  Syracuse,  both  by  tho 
canal  and  by  the  road,  are  given  in  other  places,  and 
although  they  may  be  traced  on  the  maps,  it  may 
perhaps  be  convenient  to  have  them  repeated  in  the 
reversed  order,  for  travellers  going  towards  Albany. 
{For places  see  Index*) 

FROM  SYRACUSE  TO  UTICA, 

By  the  Qtnal,  61  miles* 

Manlius  Landing,* 9 

Chitteningo  Creek, fi 

At  Chitteningo  is  an  Academy  where  some  of 
the  higher  branches  are  taught.  (A  curious 
petrified  tree  near  this  place,  a  few  steps 
from  the  canal,  was  found  with  many  of  Us 
branches.) 

*  About  20  yards  from  the  canal,  Gypsiim  (plfi«!tpr  of  Pnrip'  is  o>>- 
fainf'rl  in  mns?»*<5  of  from  1  fn  ]0n  toti*. 


!! 


\'2^  ROUTE    FROM    MAGAUA    To   AMiAKV. 

Canastota  village  and  basin,  .    .    .     .'   .    .Smile.-:. 

Oneida  creek, 5 

Wood  creek, 13 

l^ome, 3 

Oriskany  village,      .* 8 

Whitesborougn, -^ 

Utica, 4 

By  the  Road,  48  miles. 

Derne, «5 

Manlius, 3 

Sullivan, 0 

Vernon, 11 

Westmoreland, 6 

New-Hartford, 7 

Utica, 4 

For  Utica,  Hamilton  College,  and  Trenton  Falls,  see 
page  62. 

FROM  UTICA  TO  SCHENECTADY, 

By  the  Canal,  79 i  miles. 

Lock,  No.  53  (end  of  the  long  level,  which 
begins  westward  at  Salina,  and  extends  to 
this  place,  69. >  miles,  without  a  lock,)  .    .  9 
Bridge  over  the  Mohawk,  and  Herkimer  vil- 
lage,   r> 

Little  Falls, .8 

Fall  Hill,  a  mountain  on  the  right,  518  feet 
higher  than  the  canal,  712  above  high  water 
in  the  Hudson  River,  and  about  145  above 

Lake  Erie, .  1 

Old  Mohawk  Castle, 5 

Fort  Plain, 9i 

Canajoharie, 4"  . 

A  railway  has  been  proposed,  to  run  hence 
.  to  Catskill 60 


Anthony's  Nose, 5  miles. 

(This  scene  is  represented  in  the  plate  from  this 
side.  The  bluff  on  tne  right  is  Anthony's  Nose,  on  the 
top  of  which  a  remarkable  cavern  opens,  extending 
further  down  than  it  has  ever  been  explored.) 

Schoharie  Creek, U 

Amsterdam  Villajre,  (across  the  river,)    .    .  5 

Flint  Hill,  .    .    : 6 

Rotterdam  Flats, 8 

Schenectady, 3 

Road  to  Albany y  15^  miles.  Numerous  coaches 
go  every  day.     A  railroad  is  to  be  constructed. 

Road  to  nallston  and  Saratoga,  Both  these  roads 
offer  the  shortest  and  most  expeditious  communication 
with  the  places  to  which  they  conduct,  and  if  the  tra- 
veller should  be  in  pressing  haste,  he  should  avail 
himself  of  them. 

To  travellers  of  leisure  and  taste,  however,  the  canal 
boats  are  recommended  to  the  Mohawk  bridge,  al- 
though they  are  liable  to  many  delays  at  the  numerous 
locks  along  this  difficult  but  interesting  part  of  the  canal. 

FROM  SCHENECTADY  TO  ALBANY, 

By  the  Canal,  28  i  miles. 

Alexander's  Bridge,  (on  the  turnpike  road  to 
Albany  and  Boston — an  interesting  scene,)  4i 

Upper  Aqueduct,  (on  which  the  canal  crosses 
the  Mohawk,) ^ 

The  Young  Engineer,  a  rock  on  the  right,  so 
called,  where  the  cutting  is  the  deepest  on 
the  whole  route,  viz.  32  ifeet, 4 

Wat  Hoix  Gap, 5h 

(A  natural  channel,  through  which  the  canal  is  letl 

more   than   200  yards.     The   rocks  are  graywacke 

slate.     In  the  river  is  the  Wat  Hoix  Rapid,  which  the 

Indians  called  the   Evil   Spirit*  and  sometimes  th^ 

White  Hor^e.l 


t 


ifi 


I:' 


1' 


I'd^         KOUTii   FKOM   ]S1AGAKA   TO  AL,iJAJS3i. 

Lower  Aqueduct,  1188  feet  lon^,  on  which  the 
canal  crosses  the  Mohawk  again,  on  24  stone 

abutments  and  piers, 2i  miles 

The  four  Locks,  8  ieet  each,  and  Cohoes  Falls,  2 

The  two  Locks,  5  feet  each, I 

The  three   Locks,  and  the  Cohoes  Bridge 

over  the  Mohawk, i 

(Hence  to  Waterford,  on  the  road  to  Ballston,  Sara- 
toga,  &c.  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  where  stage 
coaches  are  continually  passing  in  the  visiting  season. 
By  leaving  the  boat  here,  or  a  little  below,  where  the 
canal  meets  the  road,  a  seat  may  frequently  be  found, 
in  a  passing  coach,  to  Waterford  or  the  Springs ;  or 
some  may  prefer  to  take  a  boat  on  the  Northern  Canal, 
which  is  close  at  hand.  We  shall  take  up  the  land 
route  after  giving  the  few  remaining  objects  on  the 
way  to  Albany,  and  referring  the  reader  to  page  39  for 
a  description  of  that  city.) 
The  Junction,  where  tne  Northern  Canal, 
from  Lake  Champlain  meets  the  Erie  Canal,    h 

West  Troy, 1 

(Here  is  a  cluster  of  buildings  about  the  basins 
where  the  Troy  boats  lie.  The  Lift  Lock  has  been 
before  described.  The  dam  across  the  Mohawk  will 
afford  an  easy  communication  between  the  canal  and 
Troy,  which  is  seen  on  the  opposite  «ide.  A  good 
horse  ferryboat  plies  below.) 

United  States' Arsenal, 1 

The  Manor  House  of  Gen.  Van  Rensselaer, 

called  Rensselaerwyck, 5 

Albanv,     , 1 


WATERPOIIJ). 


lil* 


or 


ROUTE  TO  THE  SPRINGS. 

[For  the  Road  and  Canal  between  Albany  and  VVcj- 
terlbrd,  see  page  47,  and  onward.] 

WATERFORD. 

This  village  is  situated  on  the  western  side  ot  llie 
Hudson,  across  which  the  communication  is  convenient 
by  means  of  the  first  brids^e  we  have  seen  over  this 
river.  Lansina:burgh  stands  opposite,  and  is  a  place 
of  considerable  size.  The  streets  of  Waterford  are 
wide,  regular,  and  handsomely  built.  Some  of  the 
private  tiouses  are  remarkable  for  their  neatness. 
There  are  numerous  rocky  islands  with  precipitous 
sides,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mohawk  River,  which  arc 
seen  at  a  little  diijtance  below  the  bridge.  The  boats 
on  the  Champlain  Canal  enter  the  Mohavv^k  in  fnll  view 
of  them,  through  guard  locks,  and  are  poled  across  ; 
the  current  being  stopped  by  a  dam.  During  the  warm 
season  of  the  year,  Waterford  is  a  great  thoroughfare, 
lying  on  two  roads  to  Albany,  as  well  as  in  the  way 
lo  both  Ballston  and  Saratoga  Springs,  Lake  George, 
&c.  It  is  2lh  miles  to  Ballston  Springs,  and  24  to 
Saratoga. 

The  approach  to  the  village  from  the  south-west,  bv 
the  canal  and  the  road,  is  uncommonly  beautiful,  ft 
lies  quite  below  you,  with  a  little  meadow  in  front, 
bounded  by  the  canal  and  the  Hudson,  its  white  houses 
mingled  with  fine  trees,  and  Diamond  Hill  rising  be- 
hind, with  its  sides  half  cultivated,  and  half  covered 
with  woods. 

A  (ew  chrystals  are  found  on  Diamond  Hill. 

Inn.     Demarest's  Stage  House. 

The  shortest  road  from  Waterford  to  Ballston 
Springs  is  through  Newtown,  18i  miles.  It  passes 
over  higher  land  \\y2n  that  through  Mschanicvil'e,  and,  ■ 

M 


130 


EOUTE   TO   THE   SPRINGiJ. 


perhaps  is  not  more  sandy,  but  is  not  furnished  witii 
stage  coaches.  The  usual  road  will  be  given  afterward. 
On  leaving  Waterford  it  verges  to  the  west,  and 
rises  to  an  elevation  of  considerable  height,  which 
affords  a  view  towards  the  south  over  a  charming 

Eiece  of  country  :  the  high,  half-cultivated  range  of 
ills,  which  extend  some  miles  down  the  Hudson  in 
the  rear  of  Lansingburgh  and  Troy,  together  with  a 
broad  strip  of  land  on  each  side  of  the  river,  including 
the  tract  on  the  west  bank,  divided  by  parts  of  the 
Champlain  and  Erie  canals,  and  the  mouth  of  the 
Mohawk  river.  From  two  miles  further  on.  Saddle 
Mountain  appears  in  view  in  the  east,  with  a  single 
peak  more  in  the  north,  and  at  a  still  greater  distance. 
Much  of  this  road  is  sandy,  and  a  great  deal  of  wheat 
and  clover  is  cultivated. 

J^ewtoTam,  3^  miles  from  Waterford. 

Half  Moouy  4.  From  this  place,  the  Catskill  Moun- 
tains are  plainly  visible  in  clear  weather. 

Second  Inn  in  Half  Moon,  4. 

About  3  miles  beyond  this  place,  the  view  opens, 
and  shows  that  the  traveller  is  in  a  kind  of  amphi- 
theatre :  the  Greenfield  Mountains  in  the  west  stretch- 
ing far  away  towards  the  north,  and  the  Vermont 
mountains  in  the  east,  which  seem  to  approach  them 
as  they  retire,  with  several  fine  and  prominent  peaks, 
particularly  one  which  is  about  three  miles  beyond 
bennington,  Vt.,  famous  for  the  defeat  of  Co!.  Baum, 
in  the  Revolution.  Afterward  the  road  passes  near 
Ballston  village,  but  without  affording  a  sieht  of  it. 
The  Springs,  being  situated  in  a  little  valley,  two 
miles  beyond,  the  first  intimation  you  have  of  your 
approach  is  the  sight  of  several  tall  evergreens,  and  a 
small  pleasure  house  on  the  top  of  a  sharp  hill,  in  the 
rear  of  Aldridge's  boarding-house. 


loun- 


sriLLWATKK. 


]:n 


From  Waterford  to  the  Springs,  by  Me- 
chanic ville. 

This  is  the  usual  road,  but  offers  few  objects  of 
interest, 

Mechanicvillej  or  the  Borough,  8i  miles  from  Wa- 
terford. Here  the  coaches  generally  stv^p  for  breakfast 
or  dinner.  Near  at  hand  is  a  Colon  Manufactoiy^ 
whence  the  place  derives  its  former  rame. 

Dunning'Street. — Here  is  a  little  t  illage,  at  which 
the  road  turns  off  west  for  the  Springs.  About  a  mile 
south  of  it  we  cross  the  Northern  cana\ 

^illwater  is  3  miles  above,  and  4  miles  beyond  that 
is  Smith's  Tavern,  where  those  will  stop  who  wish  to 
visit  the  battle  ground,  at  Bemis's  Heights.] 

Although  the  great  crowd  of  travellers  on  this  road 
will  take  the  route  to  Ballston  or  Saratoga,  yet  as  they 
will  find  few  objects  of  any  interest,  it  may  be  proper 
to  introduce,  in  this  place,  an  account  of  the  expedition 
of  Gen.  Burgoyne,  and  the  battle  of  Bemis's  Heights, 
often  known  by  the  name  of  the  battle  of  Saratoga ; 
as  we  are  within  a  few  miles  of  the  field. 

Stillwater  takes  its  name  from  the  smoothness  and 
quietness  of  the  Hudson,  which  there  spreads  out  over 
a  broad  surface,  and  hardly  shows  any  appearance  of 
a  current.  It  is  the  place  to  whicn  Gen.  Schuyler 
retreated  at  the  approach  of  Gen.  Burgoyne,  after 
removing  all  the  stores,  driving  away  the  cattle,  and 
throwing  all  possible  obstacles  in  his  way  ;  afterward 
retiring  to  the  island  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mohawk : 
and  through  this  place.  Gen.  Gates,  who  soon  after 
succeeded  him  in  the  command,  marched  up  from 
Half  Moon  to  take  position  on  Bemis's  Heights. 

The  reader  is  referred  to  the  Maps,  to  observe  the 
importance  of  the  tract  of  country  which  lies  along- 
the  route  we  have  just  entered  upon.    From  Canada 


h 


■■\ 


I 


I 


\S2 


llOUTE   TO   THE    SPIMNGS. 


to  the  head  of  Lake  Champlain  there  is  an  unintei' 
lupted  water  communication,  by  which  troops  and 
every  thing  necessary  to  an  army  may  be  transported 
with  the  utmost  facility.  A  short  land  carriage  reaches 
Lake  George.  Wood  Creek,  at  the  south  end  of 
Champlain,  is  navigable  in  boats  to  Fort  Anne,  which 
is  only  9  miles  distant  from  Fort  Edward,  on  Hudson 
river,  whence  the  navigation  is  open  to  New-York. 
Here  have  consequently  been  many  of  the  most  im- 
portant military  operations  which  have  ever  been 
carried  on  in  the  United  States.  The  first  battle 
within  this  region,  of  which  history  gives  any  account, 
■was  fought  between  the  French  and  the  Five  Nations 
of  Indians,  soon  after  the  settlement  of  Canada,  when 
the  latter  first  learned  the  terrible  effect  of  gunpowder, 
and  began  to  flee  from  the  approach  of  civilization. 
In  the  numerous  expeditions  which  at  subsequent  pe- 
riods were  undertaken  by  the  British  against  Canada, 
this  route  was  taken  in  the  attack,  and  not  unfrequently 
in  the  retreat.  The  important  events  of  the  war  of 
1755  were  almost  confined  to  this  region ;  and  the 
Revolution  and  the  last  war  with  England  produced 
scenes  which  will  be  touched  upon  in  their  places. 

The  first  period  to  which  we  shall  refer,  is  that  of 
the  Revolution ;  and  the  first  scene,  that  of  the  battle 
of  Saratoga,  or  Bemis's  Heights,  towards  which  we  arc 
fast  approaching. 

"  I  could  here,"  says  Dr.  Dwight,  "  almost  forget  that 
Arnold  became  a  traitor  to  his  country,  and  satisfy 
iiiyself  with  recollecting,  that  to  his  mvincible  gal- 
lantry, and  that  of  the  brave  officers  and  soldiers  whom 
lie  led,  my  country  was,  under  God,  indebted,  in  a 
■prime  degree,  for  her  independence,  and  all  its  con- 
sequent blessings.  I  should  think  an  American,  par- 
ticularly an  inhabitant  of  New-England  or  New-York, 
little  to  be  envied,  whose  patriotism  did  not  gain  force 
>ipon  llie  heights  of  Stillwater,  or  the  plains  of  Sara- 
toga. These  scenes  I  have  examined :  the  former 
'iVifh  'olemnitv  and  awe.  the  latter  with  ardour  and 


. 

said  t( 

degre( 

Js, 

his  pr 

areco 

attacli 

BDRrtOYNE  S  EXPEDITION. 


ISii 


udmiratio*^>  and  both  with  enthusiasm  and  rapture. 
Here  I  have  remembered,  and  here  it  was  impossible 
not  to  remember,  that  on  this  very  spot  a  controversy 
was  decided,  upon  which  hung  the  liberty  and  happi- 
ness of  a  nation  destined  one  day  to  fill  a  continent ; 
and  of  its  descendants,  who  will  probably  hereafter 
outnumber  the  inhabitants  of  Europe." 

BURGOVNE'S  EXPEDITION. 

Gen.  Burgoyne*  was  appointed  Governor  of  Canada, 
in  1777,  to  suc<  eed  Sir  Guy  Carlton.  He  arrived  at 
4^uebec  in  May,  and  reached  Crown  Point  June  20th. 
Gen.  Phillips  was  sent  to  Ticonderoga  with  the  British 

*  General  Burgoyne.—(,From  an  English  Work.)— It  is  curious,  that 
a  man  of  such  celebrity  as  a  writer,  a  senator,  and  an  officer,  as  the  late 
Lieut.  John  Burgoyne,  should  be  found  among  the  number  of  those  of 
whose  youthful  days  no  meniurial  has  been  preserved.  Neither  the 
time,  place,  nor  circumstances  of  his  birth  are  known.  Even  his  pa- 
rentage <s  doubtful.  He  is  said,  but  upon  what  authority  it  does  not 
appear,  to  have  been  a  natural  son  of  that  Lord  Bingly,  who  died  at  an 
ad.'anced  age  in  1774.  That  he  had  the  advantage  of  a  liberal  educa- 
tion, and  early  intercourse  with  polished  society,  is  sufficiently  evident 
from  his  ..ritings;  and  it  is  probable  that  he  was  early  devoted  to  the 
profession  of  arms,  for  on  the  10th  of  May,  1759,  he  was  raised  to  the 
rank  of  Lieut.  Colonel,  and  in  the  August  of  the  ensuing  year,  he  was 
appointed  Lieut.  Col.  Commandant  of  the  16th  Light  Dragoons.  His 
after  services  at  different  periods,  in  Spain,  Portugal,  and  America,  are 
all  well  known,  especially  the  unfortunate  termination  of  his  military 
career  at  Saratoga,  which,  though  it  tarnished  not  his  honour,  cast  a 
shade  over  his  brow,  ever  aflcrward  conspicuous  to  the  physiognomical 
eye.  He  made,  on  certain  occasions,  no  ordinary  iigure  in  Parliament. 
He  moved  in  the  first  circles,  and  married  Lady  Charlotte  Stanley,  a 
daughter  of  the  Earl  of  Derby ;  and  yet  we  know  not  who  and  what  he 
originally  was.  He  was  the  author  of  four  successful  dramas:  the 
Maid  of  the  Oak,  the  Lord  of  the  Manor,  Richard  CoBur  de  Lion,  and 
the  comedy  of  the  Heiress;  and  yet  the  curiosity  of  his  biographer,  even 
in  this  anecdote-dealing  and  memoir-sifting  age,  cannot  trace  his  origin 
or  the  scenes  of  his  education.  The  tale  of  the  Lord  of  the  Manor 
seems,  in  some  degree,  to  have  been  disguised  in  the  modification  of  the 
character  and  circumstances  by  the  incident  of  his  own  matrimonial 
connexion :  for  his  was  a  clandestine  and  unauthorized  marriage,  at  a 
time  when  he  held  only  a  subaltern's  commission  in  the  army ;  and  ia 
said  to  have  excited  at  first  the  resentment  of  the  lady's  father  to  such  a 
,  degree,  that  he  declared  his  resolution  never  to  admit  the  offenders  into 
his  presence,  though,  in  process  of  time,  the  anger  of  the  Earl  subsided, 
a  reconciliation  was  effected,  and  was  succeeded  by  a  warm  and  laMing 
Attachment.    It  is  probable,  also,  that  the  memory  of  his  lady,  who  died 

M  2 


I 


a 


I3:i 


TiOUTE   TO   THK   SPRINGS* 


1  ight  wing  ;  and  the  outposts  and  the  fort  Were  suc*^^ 
cessively  abandoned  by  the  Americans.  The  news 
of  the  evacuation  of  this  place  was  a  most  disheart- 
ening piece  of  intelligence  to  the  country.  It  had 
been  confidently  hoped  that  an  effectual  resistance 
would  there  be  offered  to  a  force  which  threatened  the 
liberty  of  America ;  or  at  all  events,  that  an  heroic 
stand  would  be  made  at  that  important  post,  which 
had  so  long  been  regarded  as  an  almost  impregnable 
fortress. 

During  his  delay.  Gen.  Schuyler  obstructed  the 
channel  of  Wood  creek,  removed  every  thing  valuable 
from  the  country?  and  took  the  stores  from  Fort  George 
to  Fort  Edward  :  sending;  for  regular  troops,  and  calling 
for  the  n)ilitia  of  the  neighbouring  states,  both  which 
were  supplied.  Gen.  Arnold  and  Col.  Morgan  joined 
him  with  a  body  of  riflemen,  and  Gen.  Lincoln  with 
the  New-England  militia ;  and  he  fell  back  to  Sara- 
toga and  Stillwater. 

Battle  of  Bennington.* 


While  these  preparations  were  making  for  a  general 
engagement,  the  battle  oi  Bennington  occurred,  which 
must  now  be  introduced  to  preserve  the  order  of  time. 
Being  in  want  of  provisions,  Gen.  Burgoyne  had  de- 

jn  177G,  at  Kensington  Palace,  durini:!  his  absence  in  America,  is  em- 
balmed by  the  affectionate  regrets  of  tlie  General,  in  that  beautiful  aii' 
■in  the  first  act  of  that  opera : 

'•  Encompassed  in  an  angel's  frame, 
An  angers  virtues  lay : 
Too  soor!  did  heaven  assert  the  claim, 
And  call  its  own  away. 

My  Anna's  worth,  my  Anna's  charnii, 

Must  never  more  return ! 
What  now  shall  fill  these  widow'd  arms'? 

Ah,  me  I  my  Anna's  urn !" 

*  In  Bennington  is  an  iron  mine,  which  produres  excellent.orc.    Vcvy 
pood  pi2  iron  is  forced  thf^i^  .; 


BATTLE   OF   SAKATOGA. 


li*:; 


.u-.-jt 


gpalched  Lt.  Col.  Baum,  with  bis  Hessians,  to  seize  the 

Eublic  stores  at  Bennington.  He  was  supported  by 
it.  Col.  Brechman,  who  stopped  at  Baten  Kill.  Brig. 
Gen.  Stark  with  the  New-H«mpshire  troops,  joined  by 
Col.  Warner,  attacked  Col.  Baum  at  the  Walloinsack 
river,  where  they  were  encamped,  July  16th,  (1777,) 
and  in  two  h  )urs,  forced  their  works,  and  completely 
defeated  them.  Col.  Warner  beffan  the  attack  on  Col. 
Brechman,  wounded  him  niortally,  and  took  him  pri- 
soner, and  put  his  troops  to  flight. 

Two  hundred  and  twenty-six  of  the  British  troops 
were  killed  at  the  battle  of  Bennington,  or  rather  the 
battle  of  Hoosac,  as  it  was  fought  in  that  town.  Seven 
hundred  soldiers  were  taken  prisoners,  and  thirty-six 
officers. 

To  return  to  the  principal  scene  of  action.  Gen. 
Gates  now  received  the  command  of  the  American 
troops,  which  had  been  greatly  reinforced ;  and 
marching  them  from  the  east  side  of  the  Hudson  river, 
opposite  Half  Moon,  to  Stillwater,  on  the  west  side, 
took  a  position  on  Bemis's  Heights. 

BEMIS'S  HEIGHTS, 

A  ridge  of  elevated  ground,  beginning  on  the  left, 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  river,  and  stretching" 
oflf  towards  the  north-west,  oflfered  great  advantages 
for  the  defence  of  the  road. 

Gen.  Gates's  Camp  was  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
road  on  the  left,  and  his  quarters  were  in  a  house 
which  is  yet  standing,  although  very  old.  A  by-road 
leads  to  rhe  place ;  and  the  traveller,  if  he  is  able, 
will  find  himself  repaid  by  examining  the  old  intrench- 
ments,  and  afterward  proceeding  along  the  heights, 
which  were  occupied  by  the  American  troops.  By 
making  a  considerable  circuit  by  a  road,  in  some  places 
Fough,  he  may  ride  over  the  encampment  and  the 
scenes  of  the  two  battles,  and  then  come  back  to  the 
river  at  Smith's  little  tavern,  three  miles  above  this 


i 


I 


13ti 


UOVTE   TO   TUE   8PRIN0S. 


place,  or  cross  over  to  the  Springs.  The  space  be* 
tween  the  river  and  the  brow  of  tne  hill  was  crossed 
by  a  deep  intrenchment  defended  with  artillery,  and 
aiinost  impracticable. 

The  American  Lines,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  long, 
were  furnished  with  a  breastwork  of  lo^s,  (the  him 
being  almost  entirely  a  forest,)and  the  left  terminated 
opposite  the  enemy  s  right.  From  the  left  almost  to 
the  centre,  the  ground  is  level,  ^nd  was  partly  cleared, 
yet  much  encumbered  with  fallen  and  girdled  trees» 
An  opc*^>5ng^  left  of  the  centre,  had  a  battery — thence 
a  "  ^v;nc  ran  to  the  right. 

?  <  ar  V  e  house  once  occupied  by  Gen.  Gates,  and 
clo&v  by  i;'-  'ail  fence,  are  seen  some  remains  of  the 
intrenchmeiiis  which  defended  the  American  camp. 
The  view  from  many  parts  of  this  elevated  ground  is 
extensive  and  del ign tail,  embracing  the  fertile  shores 
and  uplands  of  the  Hudson,  with  many  surrounding 
hills  and  distant  mountains. 

It  will  be  recollected,  that  the  expedition  under  Sir 
Henry  Clinton,  who  proceed^^d  up  Hudson  liver  to 
Kingston,  was  intended  to  co-operate  with  Gen.  Bur- 
goyne,  but  failed  to  produce  the  effect. 

The  British  Lanes  stretched  from  a  hill  opposite  the 
American  left,  in  a  straight  line  across  the  meadow  to 
the  Hudson  river.  The  following  account  of  their 
approach  from  Lake  George  is  from  Gen.  Wilkinson's 
Memoirs. 

"  Gen.  Burgoyne  crossed  the  Hudson  river  the  13th 
and  14th  of  Sejitember,  and  advanced  with  great  cir^ 
cumspection  on  the  15th  from  Saratoga  to  iJavocote, 
where  he  halted  to  repair  bridges  in  his  front.  The 
16th  was  employed  in  this  labour,  and  in  reconnoi- 
tring :  on  the  17tn  he  advanced  a  mile  or  two,  resumed 
his  march  on  the  18th,  and  Gen.  Arnold  was  detached 
by  Gen.  Gates,  with  1500  men,  to  harass  him ;  but 
after  a  %ht  skirmish,  he  returned  without  loss,  os: 
effecting  any  thing  more  than  picking  up  a  few  strag- 
glers; and  the  enemy  moved  iorward,  and  encamped 


MATTLi:   OF   SARATOGA. 


la: 


ace  be*" 
crossed 
ry,  and 

be  hills 
ninated 
most  to 
rieared, 
i  treeSk 
-thence 

:es,  and 
of  the 
camp, 
ound  is 
I  shores 
funding 

der  Sir 
iver  to 
i\  Bur- 

iite  the 
dow  to 
f  their 
Jnson's 

le  13th 
3a  t  cifp 
i'ocote, 
The 
[^onnoi- 
tsumed 
tacbed 
fi;  but 
OSS,  ox 
strag- 
amped 


in  two  lines,  about  two  miles  from  Gen.  Gates;  his 
left  on  the  river,  and  his  right  extending  at  right 
angles  to  it,  acFOss  the  low  grounds  about  six  hundred 
yards,  to  a  range  of  steep  and  lofty  heights  occupied 
toy  his  elite,  having  a  creek  or  gulley  in  his  front,  made 
by  a  rivulet  which  issued  from  a  great  ravine  formed 
by  the  hills,  which  ran  in  a  direction  nearly  parallel 
to  the  river,  until  within  half  a  mile  of  the  American 
camp." 

The  Northern  or  Champlain  canal,  and  the  coach 
road,  now  cross  the  ground  occupied  by  the  American 
right,  and  soon  artervvard  that  occupied  by  the  British 
lines.  About  half  a  mile  south  of  the  latter  is  the 
house  of  Major  HueU  who  served  as  a  guide  to  the 
troops,  and  now  conducts  travellers  j  the  field*  He 
is  old  and  poor,  but  strong  and  activt. 

The  Battle  Ground  is  on  an  ele  3tei  plain,  about 
two  miles  above  General  Gates's  camp,  and  the  same 
distance  west  from  Smith's  tavern.  U  may  be  taken 
in  the  way  trom  the  Springs,  but  't  is  better  to  go  first 
to  Smith's  for  a  guide,  and  to  .^ke  or  prepare  for 
refreshment.  From  Smith's  to  the  battle  ground,  the 
road  is  quite  romantic,  along  the  south  side  of  Cum- 
mingskill,  with  a  steep  bank  on  each  side  for  part  of 
the  distance.  Here  Burgoyne  marched  up  to  extend 
his  right,  and  turn  the  American  left.  The  open 
ground  at  the  end  is  the  field  of  battle. 

The  most  severe  fiajhting  in  the  first  battle  was  at 
a  little  knoll,  in  a  field  on  the  south,  passing  two  fences. 

Battle  op  Sept.  19th. 

In  the  morning,  it  was  reported  by  Col.  Colburn, 
-who  was  watching  the  enemy,  that  they  were  begin- 
ning to  ascend  the  hill  towards  the  American  leA. 
Gen.  Gates  sent  Col.  Morgan  to  oppose  them,  and  the 
firing  began  about  noon.  The  action  extended,  and 
in  three  hours  was  general,  and  continued  without 
interruption  till  dark.     The  American  troops  engageU 


.•) 


1^8 


KUUTE    TO   TJIE   SPKI.NGS. 


amounted  to  3000 ;  the  British  to  3500.  The  loliowing* 
account  is  from  General  Wilkinson. 

"  This  battle  was  perfectly  accidental ;  neither  of 
the  eenerals  meditated  an  attack  at  the  time,  and  but 
for  Lieut.  Col.  Colburn's  report,  it  would  not  have 
taken  place ;  Bursfoyne's  movement  "being:  merely  to 
take  ground  on  the  heights  in  front  of  the  great  ravine, 
to  give  his  several  corps  their  proper  places  in  line,  to 
embrace  our  front  and  cover  his  transport,  stores,  pro- 
visions, and  baggage,  in  the  rear  of  his  left ;  ana  on 
our  side,  the  defences  of  our  camp  being  not  half  com- 
pleted, and  reinforcements  daily  arriving,  it  was  not 
General  Gates's  policy  to  court  an  action.  The  mis- 
conception of  the  adverse  chiefs  put  them  on  the  de- 
fensive, and  confined  them  to  the  ground  they  casually 
occupied  at  the  beginning  of  the  action,  and  prevented 
a  single  manoeuvre,  during  one  of  the  longest,  warmest, 
and  most  obstinate  battles  fought  in  America. 

"  The  theatre  of  action  was  such,  that  although  the 
combatants  changed  ground  a  dozen  times  in  the  course 
of  the  day,  the  contest  terminated  on  the  spot  where  it 
beg^n.  The  British  line  was  formed  on  an  eminence 
in  a  thin  pine  wood,  having  before  it  Freeman's  farm^ 
an  oblong  field,  stretching  from  its  centre  towards  its 
right,  the  ground  in  front  sloping  gently  down  to  the 
verge  of  this  field,  which  was  bordered  on  the  oppo- 
site side  by  a  close  wood.  The  sanguinary  scene  lay 
in  the  cleared  ground,  between  the  eminence  occupied 
by  the  enemy,  and  the  wood  just  described.  The  fire 
of  our  marksmen  from  this  wood  was  too  deadly  to  be 
withstood  by  the  enemy  in  line,  and  when  they  gave 
way  and  broke,  our  men,  rushing  from  their  covert, 
pursued  them  to  the  eminence,  where,  having  their 
flanks  protected,  they  rallied,  and,  charging  in  turn, 
drove  us  bark  into  the  wood,  from  whence  a  dreadful 
fire  would  again  force  them  to  fall  back ;  and  in  this 
manner  did  the  battle  fluctuate,  like  the  waves  of  a 
stormy  sea,  with  alternate  advantage  for  four  hours, 
without  one  moment's  intermission.    The  British  artiU 


pro- 


DAT'i  LE   Ot    SAUATOt^A. 


\3'J 


Jery  tell  into  our  possession  at  every  charp^e,  but  we 
could  neither  turn  the  pieces  upon  the  enemy,  nor 
bring  them  off;  the  wood  prevented  the  last,  and  the 
want  of  a  match  the  first,  as  the  linstock  was  invaria- 
bly carried  off,  and  the  rapidity  of  the  transitions  did 
not  allow  us  time  to  provide  one.  The  slaughter  of 
this  brigade  of  artillerists  was  remarkable,  the  captain 
and  thirty-six  men  being  killed  or  wounded  out  of 
forty-^ight.  It  was  truly  a  gallant  conflict,  in  which 
death  by  familiarity  lost  his  terrors,  and  certainl^r  a 
drawn  battle,  as  night  alone  terminated  it ;  the  British 
army  keeping  iis  ground  in  rear  of  the  field  of  action, 
and  our  corps,  when  they  could  no  longer  distinguish 
objects,  retiring  to  their  own  camp." 

The  Interval  between  the  two  Battles. — This  time^ 
from  Sept.  I9ih  till  Oct.  7th,  was  devoted  to  strength- 
ening their  fortifications,  and  by  Gen.  Gates  to  collect- 
ing also  large  reinforcements  of  militia.  Gen.  Bur- 
goyne  is  said  to  have  planned  an  attack  on  the  20th 
and  21st  of  September,  but  fortunately  delayed  until 
the  Americans  were  in  the  best  situation  to  oppose  him. 
Attacks  on  the  British  picquets  took  place  almost  every 
night,  and  they  were  continually  harassed. 

Battle  of  October  8. — Gen.  Wilkinson  gives  the  fol- 
lowing description  of  this  battle. 

"  The  enemy  were  formed  across  a  newly  cultivated 
field,  their  grenadiers  with  several  field  pieces  on  the 
left,  bordering  on  a  wood  and  a  small  ravine  formed  by 
the  rivulet  before  alluded  to ;  their  light  infantry  on 
the  rightv  covered  by  a  worm  fence  at  the  foot  of  the 
hill  before  mentioned,  thickly  covered  with  wood  ; 
their  centre  composed  of  British  and  German  batta- 
lions. Col.  Morefan,  with  his  usual  sagacity,  proposed 
to  make  a  circuit  with  his  corps  on  our  left,  and  under 
cover  of  the  wood  to  gain  the  height  on  the  right  of  the 
enemy,  and  from  ilience  commence  his  attack,  so  soon 
as  our  fire  should  be  opened  against  their  left ;  the 
plan  was  the  best  which  could  be  devised,  and  no  doubt 


140 


ItOtTE   TO   THE   Sl'iilMib. 


contribulcd  c^sscnt Lilly  to  the  prompt  and  decisive  vie 
tory  we  grained. 

"  This  proposition  wns  approved  })y  the  General,  and 
it  was  concerted  that  lime  should  be  allowed  the  Colo- 
nel to  make  the  proposed  circuit,  and  j^ain  his  station 
on  the  enemy's  right  before  thr;  attack  should  be  made 
on  their  left :  Poor's  brijrade  was  ordered  lor  this  ser- 
vice, and  the  attack  was  commenced  in  due  season  on 
the  flank  and  front  of  the  British  grenadiers,  by  the 
New-Hampshire  and  New- Vork  troops.  True  to  his 
purpose,  Morgan,  at  this  critical  moment,  poured  down 
like  a  torrent  from  the  hill,  and  attacked  the  right  of 
the  enemy  in  front  and  flank.  Dearborn,  at  the  mo- 
ment when  the  enemy's  light  infantry  were  attempt- 
inff  to  change  front,  pressed  forward  with  an  lour  and 
delivered  a  close  fire  ;  then  leaped  the  fence,  shoutrd, 
charged,  and  gallantly  forced  them  to  retire  in  dis- 
order :  yet,  headed  by  that  intrepid  soldier,  the  Earl 
of  Balcarras,  they  were  innnf^diately  rallied  and  re- 
formed behind  a  fence  in  rear  of  their  first  position  ; 
but  being  now  attacked  with  great  audacity  in  front 
and  flanks  by  superior  numbers,  resistance  became 
vain,  and  the  whole  line,  commanded  by  Burgoyne 
in  person,  gave  wa)r  and  made  a  precipitate  and  dis- 
orderly retreat  to  his  camp,  leaving  two  12,  and  six 
6  pounders  on  the  field,  with  the  loss  of  more  than  400 
officers  and  men  killed,  woun»led,  and  captured,  and, 
among  them,  the  flower  of  his  officers,  viz  : — Brigadier 
General  Frazer,*  Major  Ackiand,  commanding  the 
grenadiers.  Sir  Francis  Clark,  his  first  aid-de-camp, 
Major  Williams,  commanding  officer  of  the  artillery, 
Captain  Money,  deputy  quarter-master-general,  and 
many  others.  The  ground  which  had  been  occupied 
by  the  British  grenadiers  yresented  a  scene  of  com- 
plicated horror  and  exultation.     In  the  square  space 


*  General  Frazer  was  shot  in  llic  meadow,  near  the  fence  by  ibe  roa.t 
Ride,  just  south  of  the  blacksmith's  s:hr>p.    Tho  spot  is  marked  by  th'.> 
Jhird  tron  in  a  rrrv  of  i)0|>I:-rs', 


aim 


iiAl'TLi:    Ol     bAUAiOGA. 


/il 


ot  twelve  or  fifteen  yards  lay  eighteen  grenadiers  in 
the  agonies  of  death,  and  three  officers  propped  up 
aeainst  stumps  of  trees,  two  of  them  mortally  woundea, 
bleeding,  and  almost  speechl#^ss. 

"  I  found  the  courageous  Colonel  Cilley  a-straddle 
on  a  brass  twelve-pounder,  and  exulting  in  the  cap- 
ture. I  pursued  the  hard-pressed  flying  enemy,  pass- 
ing over  killed  and  wounded,  until  I  heard  one  ex- 
claim, *  Protect  me,  Sir,  against  this  boy.'  Turning 
my  eyes,  it  was  my  fortune  to  arrest  the  purpose  of  a 
lad  thirteen  or  fourteen  years  old,  in  the  act  of  taking 
aim  at  a  wounded  officer  who  lay  in  the  angle  of  a 
worm  fence.  Inquiring  his  rank,  ne  answered,  *  I  had 
the  honour  to  command  the  grenadiers  ;'  of  course,  I 
knew  him  to  be  Major  Ackland,  who  had  been  brorij,;ht 
from  the  field  to  this  place,  on  the  back  of  a  Captain 
Shrimpton  of  his  own  corps,  under  a  heavy  fire,  and 
was  here  deposited,  to  save  the  lives  of  both.  I  dis- 
mounted, took  him  by  the  hand,  and  expressed  hopes 
that  he  was  not  badly  wounded  :  *  not  badly,'  replied 
this  gallant  officer  and  accomplished  gentleman, '  but 
very  inconveniently ;  I  am  shot  through  both  legs  :  will 
you,  Sir,  have  the  goodness  to  have  me  conveyed  to 
your  camp  ?'  I  directed  my  servant  to  alight,  and  We 
lifted  Ackland  into  his  seat,  and  ordered  him  to  be 
conducted  to  head-quarters.  I  then  proceeded  to  the 
scene  of  renewed  action,  which  embraced  Burgoyne's 
right  flank  defence,  and  extending  to  his  left,  crossed 
a  nollow  covered  with  wood,  about  40  rods,  to  the  in- 
trenchment  of  the  light  infantry.  The  roar  of  cannon 
and  small  arms  at  this  juncture  was  sublime,  between 
the  enemy  behind  their  works,  and  our  troops  entirely 
exposed,  or  partially  sheltered  by  trees,  stumps,  or 
h  'tlows,  at  various  distances,  not  exceeding  120  yards^. 
This  right  flank  defence  of  the  enemy,  occupied  by 
the  German  corps  of  Breyman,  consisted  of  a  breast- 
Work  of  rails,  piled  horizontally  between  perpendicu- 
lar pickets,  driven  into  the  earth,  c?i  potence  to  the  rest 
of  his  litte*  and  extended  to  about  550  yards  acros^ar. 


I 


142 


KOl/TE   TO  Tlli:   Sl'KlxNGs.. 


open*field,  and  was  covered  on  the  right  by  a  baUery 
of  two  guns.  The  interval  from  the  left  to  the  British 
light  infantry  was  committed  to  the  defence  of  the 
provincialists,  who  occupied  a  couple  of  log  cabins. 
The  Germans  were  encamped  immediately  behind 
the  rail  breastwork,  and  the  ground  in  front  of  it  de- 
clined in  a  very  gentle  slope  for  about  120  yards,  when 
it  sunk  abruptly  ;  our  troops  had  formed  a  line  under 
this  declivity,  and, covered  breast  high,  were  warmly 
engaged  with  the  Germans.  From  this  position,  about 
sunset,  I  perceived  Brigadier-General  Learned  ad- 
vancing towards  the  enemy  with  his  brigade,  in  open 
column,  I  think  with  Colonel  M.  Jackson's  regiment 
in  front,  as  I  saw  Lieutenant-Colonel  Brooks,  who 
commanded  it,  near  the  General,  when  I  rode  up  to 
him.  On  saluting  this  brave  old  soldier,  he  inquired, 
'  Where  can  I  put  in  with  most  advantage  ?'  I  had 
particularly  examined  the  ground  between  the  left  of 
the  Germans  and  the  light  infantry,  occupied  by  the 
yjrovincialists,  from  whence  I  had  observed  a  slack 
fire  :  I  therefore  recommended  to  General  Learned  to 
incline  to  his  right,  and  attack  at  th?t  point ;  he  did 
so  with  great  gallantry  ;  the  provincialists  abandoned 
their  position  and  fled  ;  the  German  flank  was  by  this 
means  uncovered ;  they  were  assaulted  vigorously, 
overturned  in  five  minutes,  and  retreated  in  disorder, 
leaving  their  gallant  commander,  Lieutenant-Colonel 
Breyman,  dead  on  the  field.  By  dislodging  this  corps, 
the  w^hole  British  encampment  was  laid  open  to  us ; 
but  the  extreme  darkness  of  the  night,  the  fatigue  of 
the  men,  and  the  disorder  incident  to  undisciplined 
troops  after  so  desultory  an  action,  put  it  out  of  our 
power  to  improve  the  advantage  ;  and  in  the  course 
of  the  night,  General  Burgoyne  broke  up  his  camp,  and 
retired  to  his  original  position,  which  he  had  fortified, 
behind  the  great  ravine." 

The  British  lost,  in  killed,  wounded,  and  prisoners, 
about  600  ;  the  Americans  319.  The  German  ofiicer? 
«riid  they  had  never  before  met  so  vigorous  and  terri- 


IJATTLE   OF  SAKATUO'A. 


l4o 


>aUery 
British 
of  the 
cabins, 
behind 

it  de- 
,  when 

under 
larinly 
,  about 
ed  ad- 
n  open 
giment 
s,  who 
B  up  to 
quired, 

1  had 
I  leit  of 
by  the 
cL  slack 
rned  to 
he  did 
ndoned 

by  this 
)rously, 
isorder, 

olonel 
5  corps, 

to  us; 

igue  of 

iplined 

of  our 

course 
np, and 
:)rtified, 

isoners. 
officer? 
d  terri- 


ble a  fire.  Several  American  officers  who  w^alked 
over  the  field  after  midnight,  found  no  enemy  to  in- 
terrupt them. 

General  Frazer^s  Grave  is  on  the  hill  a  little  west 
of  Smith's.  At  his  own  request,  he  was  buried  in  the 
great  redoubt,  the  remains  of  which  are  plainly  visible. 

Oct.  8th,  frequent  attacks  were  made  on  Gen. 
Balcarras'  corps,  and  the  British  expected  a  general 
action. 

General  Bur^oyneh  Retreat  commenced  that  nig^ht 
towards  Lake  George  ;  but  he  was  pursued  and  in- 
tercepted so  promptly,  that  he  was  obliged  to  stop 
and  take  a  position  at  Schuylersville,  near  which  he 
surrendered  ten  days  after  the  battle.  The  place  will 
be  particularly  noticed  beyond. 

After  perusing  the  foregoing  descriptions  of  those  two 
most  important  battles,  the  traveller  will  be  greatly  in- 
terested in  learning  that  Smith's  inn,  to  which  he  has 
before  been  directed,  was  at  that  period  the 

(Quarters  of  General  Burgoyne. — The  house  now 
stands  by  the  road  side,  but  the  place  where  it  then 
was  is  a  spot  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  about  200 
yards  from  the  river.  The  cellar  is  still  to  be  seen, 
m  a  field  near  an  apple  tree,  a  little  north  of  the  road 
that  crosses  the  canal.  Willard's  mountain  is  an  emi- 
nence, a  few  miles  off,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river. 
During  the  last  battle,  the  Americans  had  a  few  can- 
non on  the  rising  ground  above  the  eastern  shore,  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  above  Smith's,  and  thence  proceeded 
the  shot  of  which  the  Baroness  Reidesel  speaks  in  the 
succeeding  note.  Several  ladies  of  distinction  were 
its  inmates  at  the  time  when  the  British  troops  were 
here,  being  the  wives  of  some  of  its  principal  officers. 
Among  these  were  the  Baroness  Reidesel,*  with  her 

*  Extract  of  a  letter  from  the  Baroness^  afterward  published  in  Qer~ 
many,  and  lately  in  this  country. 

"  But  severe  trials  awaited  us,  and  on  the  7tli  of  October,  our  mis- 
fortunes began.  I  was  at  breakfast  with  my  husbatid,  and  heard  that 
.^ninpthjnjj  was  int^n'I'vl.    On  lhe?ame  day  I  expeored  Orirrala  Pui 


\l 


U'i 


ROUTE   TO   TilE   SPRINUS. 


children,  wife  of  General  Reidesel,  and  Lady  Harriet 
Ackland,  wife  of  Major  Ackland,  commander  of  the 


goyne,  Phillipg,  and  Frazer  to  dine  with  us.  I  saw  a  great  movenaent 
Among  the  troops ;  my  husband  told  me,  it  was  merely  a  reconnoissance, 
which  gave  me  no  concern,  as  it  often  happened.  I  walked  out  of  the- 
house  and  met  several  Indians  in  their  war  dresses,  with  guns  in  their 
Iiands.  When  T  asked  them  where  they  were  going,  they  cried  out, 
War !  War !  (meaning  they  were  going  to  battle.)  This  filled  me  with 
apprehension,  and  I  scarcely  got  home  before  I  heard  reports  of  cannon 
and  musketry,  whicli  grew  louder  by  degrees,  till  at  last  the  noise  be- 
came excessive.  About  4  o'clock  in  tlie  afternoon,  instead  of  the  guests 
whom  I  expected,  General  Frazer  was  brought  on  a  litter  mortally 
wounded.  The  table,  which  was  already  set,  was  instantly  removed, 
and  a  bed  placed  in  its  stead  for  the  wounded  General.  I  sat  trembling 
in  a  corner ;  the  noise  grew  louder,  and  the  alarm  increased ;  the  thouglit 
that  my  husband  might  perhaps  be  brought  in,  woundel  in  the  same 
way,  was  terrible  to  me,  and  distressed  me  exceedingly.  Gen.  Frazer 
said  to  the  surgeon,  "  tell  me  if  my  wound  is  mortal ;  do  not  flatter  tnc." 
The  ball  had  passed  through  hisi  body,  and,  unhappily  for  the  General, 
he  had  eaten  a  very  hearty  breakfast,  by  whlcii  the  stomach  was  dis- 
tended, and  the  ball,  as  the  surgeon  said,  had  passed  through  it.  I 
heard  him  often  exclaim  with  a  sigh,  "  Oh,  fatal  ambition !  Poor  General 
Burgoyne !  Oh,  my  poor  wife !"  He  was  asked  if  he  had  any  request 
to  make,  to  which  he  replied,  that  "  If  General  Burgoyne  would  permit 
it,  he  should  like  to  be  buried  at  six  o'clock  in  the  evening  on  the  top  of 
a  mountain,  in  a  redoubt  which  had  been  built  there."  I  did  not  know 
which  way  to  turn,  all  the  other  rooms  were  full  of  sick.  Towards 
evening  I  saw  my  husband  coming ;  then  I  forgo*  all  my  sorrows  and 
thanked  God  that  he  was  spared  to  me.  He  ate  in  great  haste  with  me 
and  his  aid-de-camp  behind  the  house.  We  had  been  told  that  wa  had 
the  advantage  of  the  enemy,  but  the  sorrowful  faces  I  beheld  told  a  dif- 
ferent tale,  and  before  my  husband  went  away,  he  took  me  one  side, 
and  said  every  thing  was  going  very  bad,  that  I  must  keep  myself  in 
readiness  to  leave  the  place,  but  not  to  mention  it  to  any  one.  I  made 
the  pretence  that  I  would  move  the  next  morning  into  my  new  house, 
and  had  every  thing  packed  up  ready. 

"  Lady  II.  Ackland  had  a  tent  not  far  from  our  house ;  in  this  she 
slept,  and  the  rest  of  the  day  she  was  in  the  camp.  All  of  a  sudden,  a 
man  came  to  tell  her  that  her  husband  was  mortally  wounded  and  taken 
prisoner ;  on  hearing  this  she  became  very  miserable ;  we  comforted 
her  by  telling  her  that  the  wound  was  only  slight,  and  at  the  same  time 
advised  her  to  go  over  to  her  husband,  to  do  which  she  would  certainly 
obtain  permission,  and  then  she  could  attend  him  herself:  she  was  a 
charming  woman  and  very  fond  of  him.  I  spent  much  of  the  night  in 
comforting  her,  and  then  went  again  to  my  children  whom  I  had  put  to 
bed.  I  could  not  go  to  sleep,  as  I  had  General  Frazer  and  all  the  other 
wounded  gentlemen  in  my  room,  and  I  was  sadly  afraid  my  children 
would  awake,  and  by  their  crying  disturb  the  dying  man  in  his  last  mo- 
ments, who  often  addressed  me,  and  apologized  *^for  tfie  trouble  he 
grave  mc."  About  3  o'clock  in  the  morning  I  was  told  he  could  not  hold 
out  nmch  longer ;  I  had  desired  to  be  informed  of  the  near  approach  of 
rl)is  sad  nJT'is.  and  1  then  wranpe']  \\\\  my  fliilrtren  in  thetr  cfntlTrts.  and 


dy  Harriet: 
ider  of  the 

eat  movement 
econnoissancs, 
led  out  of  the- 
li  guns  in  their 
ihey  cried  out, 

filled  me  with 
oris  of  cannon 

the  noise  be- 
d  of  the  guests 
litter  mortally 
ntly  removed, 

sat  trembling 
d ;  the  thougiit 
3 1  in  the  same 
Gen.  Frazer 
ot  flatter  oi«." 
r  the  General, 
lach  was  d\»- 
through  it.    I 

Poor  General 
id  any  request 

would  permit 
5  on  the  top  of 

did  not  know 
ck.  Towards 
r  sorrows  and 
haste  with  me 
d  that  w  3  had 
leid  told  a  dif- 

me  one  side, 
eep  myself  in 

one.  I  made 
>y  new  house, 

e ;  in  this  she 
if  a  sudden,  a 
ded  and  taken 
we  comforted 
the  same  time 
)uld  certainly 
If:  she  was  a 
f  the  night  in 
n  I  had  put  to 
1  all  the  other 
1  my  children 
n  his  last  mo- 
;/ifi  trouble  fie 
;ould  not  hold 
r  approach  of 
cfotliT*!.  nnri 


m 


ii;:; 


k 


BALLSTOiV   SPRIKGs. 


14j 


"-^ 


r. 


British  Grenadiers.  The  ^cT.nci  pub!isbed  ?ij  accc  jit 
of  what  she  sav  during  this  trying;  anc*  aangerous  con- 
test, atter  hor  return  to  Europe.  The  house  was  con- 
verted inta  an  hospital  during  the  second  battle,  and 
Gen.  Frazer  died  on  the  8th  of  October  in  what  is 
iK)w  the  bar-room.    His  grave  is  on  the  hill. 

BALLSTON  SPRINGS. 

This  village  is  situated  in  a  little  valley  surrounded 
by  hills,  which  have  the  aspect  of  having  once  been 
the  l)€d  of  a  small  lake.  Tne  high  ground  enclosing 
it,  gives  an  air  of  seclusion  to  the  place,  at  the  same 
time  that  it  furnishes  a  variety  of  pleasant  scenery. 
The  Kavderosseros  brook  flows  through  the  valley,  in 
some  places  overhung  by  the  groves  of  forest  trees 
that  cover  the  hills. 

The  Sans  Souci  Hotel  is  the  principal  house  in  the 
place,  and  is  at  least  equal  in  plan  and  in  arrangement 
to  any  similar  establishment  in  the  country,  Aldridge's 
is  a  respectable  house,  in  a  pleasant  situation.    Mrs. 

wenf  vvitli  them  into  the  room  below.  About  8  o'clock  in  the  morninij 
he  died.  After  be  was  laid  ovit  and  iiis  corpse  wrapped  up  iu  a  sheet, 
we  came  again  into  tin  room,  and  had  this  sorrowful  sight  befoit  iSUif 
wlK)le  day ;  and  to  add  to  this  melancholy  scene,  almost  every  x,;\>-  ent, 
soine  officer  of  my  acquaintance  was  broucht  in  wounded.  Th'  .an- 
nonade  commenced  again ;  a  retreat  was  spoken  of,  but  not  the  .ilest 
motion  was  made  toxiards  it.  About  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoo:,  i  saw 
the  house  which  had  just  been  built  for  me  in  flames,  ami  the  enen>>  wan 
now  not  far  off.  We  knew  that  General  Burgoyne  would  not  iefuPr 
the  last  request  of  General  Frazer,  though,  by  his  acceding  to  ii,  on  nii- 
necessary  delay  was  occasioned,  by  which  i  le  inconvenience  '"  the 
army  was  much  increased.  At  G  o'clock  the  corpse  was  bronght  out, 
and  we  saw  all  the  Genitals  attend  it  to  the  mountain ;  the  chaplain, 
Mr.  Brundell,  performed  the  funeral  service,  rendered  umisually  solemn 
and  awful,  from  its  being  accompanied  by  con.^ant  peals  from  the  <!ne- 
my's  artillery.  Many  cannon  bails  flew  close  by  me ;  but  I  had  my  eyes 
directed  towards  the  mountain,  where  my  husband  was  standing,  amid 
the  fire  of  the  enemy,  and,  of  course,  I  could  not  think  of  my  own  dan- 
ger. General  Gates  afterward  said,  that  if  he  had  known  it  had  been 
a  funeral,  he  would  not  have  permitted  it  to  be  fired  on."  Lady  H&rriet 
Ackland  went  to  the  American  camp  after  the  action,  to  take  care  cf  her 
Imsband,  before  the  surrender,  and  the  Baroness  Reidesel  aiterward. 
They  were  berth  receive<l  with  tlie  greatest  kindness  and  delicnc^ 

N  2 


•ftr 


|5   » 


.  ♦      g-»    .4*r. -• 


1*1 


;vf::pv.«^ 


i-i*) 


THE   SPBIiNCIfe. 


M*Maslers',  the  Village  Hotel,  &c.  are  in  the  ireighr 
bourhood. 

Sans  Souci 

is  a  building  of  great  size,  occupying  the  corner  where 
the  villatie  street  meets  the  road  to  Saratoga.  It  has 
a  fine  piazza  opening  upon  the  former,  and  presents  a 
front  of  156  feet  long,  with  a  wing  extending  back  from 
each  end  150  feet,  all  of  them  three  stories  high,  and 
containing  in  all  lodging  for  nearly  150  persons.  The 
dining  room  can  easily  accommodate  that  number,  and 
the  public  parlour  is  large,  airy,  and  pleasant,  extend- 
ing to  the  ladies'  private  parlour. 

Scarcely  any  thin|;  in  this  country  can  exceed  the 
scene  of  gayety  which  this  house  presents  in  the  visit- 
ing season.  When  crowded  with  people.  Sans  Souci 
is  usually  the  scene  of  several  balls  in  the  week,  to 
say  nothing  of  the  fishing  parties,  riding  parties,  &c. 
&c.  which  fill  up  the  day.  The  variety  of  sceneiy 
in  the  neighbourhood  is  sufficient  to  attract  many  of 
those  who  resort  to  this  place  of  health  and  pleasure ; 
and  walking  and  iding  will  be  found  much  more 
agreeable  here  than  at  Saratoga.  Some  of  the  parti- 
cular routes  and  objects  will  be  designated  hereafter. 


The  Washington  Spring. 

A  new  and  remarkable  chalybeate  Spring  was  ob- 
tained, in  1827,  by  boring  237  feet  deep,  through  blue 
slate  rock,  near  the  Old  Spring.  It  has  a  tube  sunk 
fhe  whole  distance,  made  partly  of  iron  and  partly  of 
tin,  and  affords  a  most  delightful  sparkling  water, 
which  boils  over  the  top.  In  August  of  that  year,  se- 
\€  a  I  -nonths  after  it  was  opened,  the  water  was  forced 
ijn<>  the  air  to  the  height  of  12  or  14  feet,  without  any 
perceptible  cause,  in  a  constant  jet,  for  about  half  an 
)i  lUF.    7'he  water  then  disappeared,  and  \'7^  aflipr; 


KALLSTOM. 


M 


nisigb 


•  where 
It  has 
'sents  a 
:k  from 
^h,  and 
.  The 
ler,  and 
ixteod- 

led  the 
e  visit- 
s  Souci 
sek,  to 
fS,  &c. 
iceneiy 
any  of 
asure ; 
^  more 

parti- 

iter. 


as  ob- 
blue 
i  sunk 
rtly  of 
water, 
ar,  se- 
forced 
lit  any 
alf  an 
AflhPr; 


ward  discovered  slowly  rising,  till  it  again  overflowed. 
It  was  for  a  time  flat  and  turbid  ;  but  soon  recovered 
all  its  clearness  gaseous  pungency,  and  sparkling. 
This  spring  affords  some  of  the  finest  chalybeate  water 
in  the  United  States. 

7%c  iMfayette  Spring,  which  yields  a  fine  and 
sparklini^  chalybeate  water,  was  discovered  early  in 
the  summer  of  1825.  It  is  supposed  by  manjr  to  be 
in  fact  identical  with  the  "  Old  Spring,"  which  is  soon 
to  be  spoken  of,  being  distant  from  it  only  about  thirty 
feet.  It  is  very  cold  and  highly  charged  with  oxyde 
of  iron  and  carbonic  acid  gas,  which  have  given  it  a 
high  reputation. 

The  Old  Sprinff,  which  is  in  the  middle  of  the 
street  opposite  Aldridge's,  was  the  first  discovered  in 
all  this  part  of  the  country.  It  is  said  that  the  inhabit- 
ants were  induced  to  trust  to  its  peculiar  virtues  by 
the  example  of  the  deer  of  the  forest,  which  had  re- 
sorted to  it  in  such  numbers  as  to  form  beaten  paths 
from  every  direction  to  the  spot.  In  1792  there  was 
uot  a  house  within  two  or  three  miles  of  this  spot. 

The  Old  Spring  has  lost  much  of  its  original  excel- 
lence, which  appears  to  be  in  a  good  degree  transferred 
to  the  nev/  ones. 

The  Saline,  or  United  States  Spring,  is  a  fine  and 
most  valuable  one  ;  it  is  near  the  bathing  house  con- 
nected with  the  Sans  Souci.  It  was  discovered  a  few 
years  since,  and  contains  a  large  quantity  of  oxyde  of 
iron,  together  with  glauber  and  other  salts,  so  that  it  is 
at  once  a  strong  saline,  and  chalybeate  water.  The 
iron  is  in  such  quantities  as  to  be  perceptible  to  the 
taste.  Its  effect  is  tonic,  and  it  favourably  counteracts 
the  debilitating  effect  of  the  salts. 

The  New  Spring  is  near  the  Saiis  Souci  hotel.  It 
was  obtained  in  1827  by  boring  to  a  depth  of  about 
300  feet,  and  is  full  of  gas,  very  sparkling  and  con- 
sidered both  saline  and  chalybeate. 

The  neighbouring  country  was  almost  a  perfect  wil- 
dpFfjpsrt?  at  thf  rlo.fife  of  the  Kevolutionary  war ;  for  \hp 


14}'. 


THE   SPBINUS. 


natural  military  route  between  Canada  and  the  United 
States  lay  through  it,  and  the  Five  Nations  of  Indians 
were  so  near  on  the  western  sidr,  and  were  so  fre- 
quently passing  over  it  on  their  war  parties,  that  few 
white  men  were  willing  to  encounter  the  dangers  and 
risks  to  which  such  a  residence  must  necessarily  be 
exposed. 

For  some  years,  the  only  place  where  visiters  could 
find  shelter  here,  was  in  a  log  house,  near  the  Old 
Spring,  which  was  for  some  time  the  only  object  of 
notice.  The  springs  near  the  Sans  Souci  were  subse- 
quently discovered,  and  have  enjoyed  their  portion  of 
celebrity.  In  1817  four  springs  of  different  qualities 
were  found  near  the  great  manufactory  built  d>  Mr. 
Low.  Their  history  is  worthy  of  attention,  as  it 
shows  the  singular  changes  which  sometimes  take 
place  in  this  mysterious  soil,  where  springs  occasion- 
ally appear,  change  places,  and  disappear,  without  any 
apparent  cau.^e.  Some  surprising  power  is  constantly 
at  work  somewhere  beneath  the  surface,  which  the 
wisest  students  of  nature  are  unable  to  explain  or  to 
comprehend.  The  branch  of  the  Kayderosseros 
brook  which  flows  through  the  Spa  Village,  was  raised 
to  an  unusual  height  by  a  flood  in  the  summer  of  1817, 
and  threw  its  current  into  a  new  channel,  further  to- 
wards the  east  than  its  former  one.  The  old  bed  was 
thus  left  dry  ;  and  four  springs  were  found  rising  side 
by  side,  all  of  fhem  within  b  space  of  about  twenty 
feet  square,  and  all  of  qualities  entirely  different. 
One  resembled  in  some  degree  the  Old  Spring,  but 
contained  a  surplus  of  carbonic  acid  gas  ana  spai-kled 
like  champaign ;  the  next  contained  much  glauber 
salts,  and  was  somewhat  like  the  Congress  Spring  at 
Saratoga ;  the  third  was  brine,  like  sea  water ;  and 
the  fourth  perfectly  fresh.  A  platform  was  raised 
that  covered  them  all,  and  wooden  tubes  were  sunk 
into  the  two  first,  which  were  only  two  or  three  feet 
apart ;  and  for  three  or  four  seasons  they  attracted  all 
Tisiters,  so  much  so  that  the  Old  Spring  was  deserted*' 


BALLSTOiN. 


140 


United 
Indians 
so  f:e- 
at  few 
irs  and 
rily  be 

s  could 
be  Old 
ject  of 
subse- 
rtion  of 
ualities 
)>  Mr. 
,  as  it 
s  take 
casion- 
>ut  any 
i^tantly 
ch  the 
1  or  to 
osseros 
I  raised 
►fl817, 
her  to- 
ed was 
ig  side 
twenty 
Qferent. 
ig,  but 
»ai-kled 
jlauber 
ring  at 
r;  and 
raised 
'e  sunk 
ee  feet 
ted  all 
sertedr 


The  first  spring  was  peculiarly  fine,  and  the  favourite 
of  all;  but  it  at  lene:th  began  to  lose  its  flavour,  gas, 
and  virtue  ;  and  the  tour  springs  now  flow  off  together 
in  a  stream  of  almost  pure  water.  The  Old  Spring 
was  visited  by  Sir  William  Johnson  before  the  Revo- 
lutionary war,  for  his  health.  It  was  before  known  by 
reports  of  the  Indians. 

QUALITIES  OF  THE  BALLSTON  WATERS. 

JVew-Havetij  April  87,  1824. 
Dear  Sir, 
You  request  my  opinion  of  the  mineral  waters  at 
Ballston  Spa.  They  are  in  my  view  very  valuable, 
and  I  can  discern  no  serious  reason  why  public  opinion 
should  be  less  favourable  to  them  now  than  formerly. 
I  became  acquainted  with  the  Old  Spring,  near  Mr. 
Aldridge's,  in  consequence  of  using  its  waters  unin- 
terruptedly at  the  fountain  head,  for  a  month,  in  the 
Autumn  of  1797  ;  and  a  residence  of  the  same  length 
of  time,  at  Ballston  Spa,  during  the  last  summer,  gave 
me  an  opportunity  of  renewing  my  acquaintance  with 
the  Old  Spring,  and  of  becoming  familiar  also  with 
those  more  recently  discovered  fountains,  which  have 
been  opened  and  brought  into  use.  The  Old  Spring 
appears,  substantially,  as  it  did  in  1797,  and  is,  I  sup- 
pose, surpassed  by  no  mineral  fountain  in  the  world  as 
a  brisk,  copious,  slightly  saline,  and  strong  chalybeate. 
The  principal  spring*  under  the  bath  house,  while  it 
is  also  a  brisk  chalybeate,  is  besides  in  a  high  degree 
saline,  and  is  probably  unrivalled  as  a  natural  combi- 
nation of  this  class.  Its  cathartic  properties  are  strong, 
and  its  tonic  powers  equally  so.  There  is  no  spring, 
either  at  Ballston  Spa  or  Saratoga  Springs,  which  1 
should  prefer  to  this.    1   speak  of  my  own  expe- 

*  Mr.  Silliman  lias,  analyzed  the  water  of  Uhs  spring,  wliU'ti  is  now 
called  the  United  States,  and  found  half  a  irallon  of  it  to  contain  iiTO 
jcrainaof  salt;  iron,  lime,  and  mamirsia,  100.  It  is  at  onro  ?ilghiy  salitii' 
;/nd  /'halvlieatf.  which  js  vfrv  rf'ni;irk'.ihi'\ 


Ijo 


Till:  Dl!KIMiJ». 


i'icnce — for  som©  persons,  a  brisk  cathartic"  water, 
scarcely  chalybeate  at  all,  like  the  Cono^ress  Spring*, 
may  be  preferable.  The  Congress  Spring  is  also,  su 
far  as  I  am  informed,  without  a  rival,  in  its  class — but 
it  is  scarcely  proper  to  call  it  a  chalybeate,  as  it  is  so 
only  in  a  slight  degree.  There  is  no  reason  why  the 
establishments  at  Saratoga  Springs  and  at  Ballston  Spa 
should  regard  each  other  with  an  unfriendly  feeling. 
The  accommodations  of  both  are  too  gooa  to  vseci 
praise  from  me,  and  the  bounty  of  the  Creator  has 
poured  forth  these  fountains  of  health,  in  the  great 
valley  (for  I  regard  the  springs  of  Ballston  Spa  and 
Saratoga  as  parts  of  one  great  system)  with  a  profuse 
benevolence,  unknown  in  any  other  country.  Nothing 
can  exceed  the  variety,  copiousness,  and  excellence  ot 
the  springs  at  Saratoga — but  those  of  Bailston  Spa 
are  in  no  respect,  except  that  of  number  and  variety, 
inferior  to  them,  and  1  trust  the  day  is  not  distant, 
when  a  truly  liberal  feehng  will,  in  both  villages,  lead 
to  mutual  commendation,  and  an  amicable  rivalry,  in 
efforts  to  pl6ase  and  to  accommodate  their  guests; 
and  the  salutary  effect  will  then,  I  am  persuaded,  soon 
be  visible,  in  the  increased  number  of  visiters,  from 
every  part  of  this  great  continent ;  a  number  more 
than  sufficient  to  fill  both  villages,  and  fully  to  reward 
the  spirited  and  liberal  proprietors  of  their  respective 
public  establishments. 

With  the  best  wishes  for  the  prosperity  of  both 
places,  I  remain 

Your  Obt.  Servant, 

B.  SILLIMAN. 

Low^s  Manufactory  is  four  stories  high,  about  170 
(eet  long,  and  forty  feet  widr>,  with  a  large  room  in 
each  of  the  three  upper  stories  about  115  feet  long. 
It  is  not  used. 

There  is  a  Reading'  Room  and  Circulating  Library 
kept  at  the  store  of  Mr.  Comstock  ;  and  a  book  is  also 
to  be  seen,  in  which  the  names  of  visiters  arriving  at 


oALWAk. 


161 


the  principal  houses  are  daily  entered,  tor  the  inform- 
ation of  others. 

The  Lover's  Leap  is  a  precipice  of  60  or  70  feet, 
which  overhani;s  ihe  Kayaerosseros,  and  overlooks  a 
romantic  and  secluded  little  valley,  at  the  distance  of 
about  half  a  mile  from  the  sprines.  The  road  leads 
up  the  hill  beyond  Aldiidge'b,  and  through  a  dark  pine 
grove.  A  half-trodden  path  turns  off  at  the  right,  and 
conducts  to  the  piecipice,  which  is  a  pleasant  retreat 
in  the  heat  oi  the  day,  affording  a  fine  shade  and  fre- 
quently a  pleasant  breeze,  as  well  as  the  view  of  a 
wild  scene  below,  to  which  a  steep  descent  conducts 
on  the  left  hand. 

Ballston  Lake  is  a  pretty  little  sheet  of  water  about 
four  miles  distant;  but  as  Saratoga  Lake  is  much 
larger,  more  accessible,  and  more  beautiful,  and  is 
supplied  with  accommodations  for  fishing  parties,  it  is 
more  worth}^  of  attention ;  we  refer  the  stranger  to 
the  description  of  it  on  page  145.  The  distance  is 
four  and  a  half  miles,  ana  five  and  a  half  from  Sara- 
toga Springs.  It  is  only  six  miles  from  Ballston  Spa 
to  the  south  end,  where  is  the  finest  view  of  it,  on  the 
way  to  the  battle  ground.  The  road  is  rather  stony 
andf  rough.  Nut  perfectly  safe,  ami  has  some  pleasant 
spots,  and  several  extensive  views.  The  Green  Moun- 
tains in  Vermont  present  a  very  noble  appearance ;  and 
several  ridges  of  hills  between,  afterward  succeeded 
by  the  swelling  and  fertile  shores  of  thesHudson, form 
a  various an'i  delightful  landscape. 

Mr,  Simpson's  Farm  in  Galway,  is  11  miles  west 
from  Ballston  Springs. 

He  is  an  excellent  farmer,  and  his  house  a  very  good 
inn.  Take  the  road  up  the  sand  hill  by  Aldridge's, 
passing  near  the  Lover's  Leap,  and  following  the 
Johnstown  road.  His  house  is  on  a  high  ridge  of  land ; 
the  farm  contains  800  acres,  360  of  which  are  culti- 
vated, principally  for  grain  and  grass.  He  raises  40 
or  50  bushels  of  wheat  to  an  acre  by  late  ploughing, 
r^bout  three  inches  deep.    He  so^ks  his  seed  wheat  in 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  145S0 

(716)  •72-4503 


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ill£   SPliixNti^. 


brine,  and  rolls  it  iir  lime  to  preserve  it  iVoiu  lUbectyv 
Other  seeds  he  rolls  in  plaster.    He  has  raised  700 
bushels  of  potatoes  to  an  acre.    Hrs  com  is  planted  * 
two  feet  apart  one  way,  and  two  and  a  half  the  other. 

His  fences  are  of  stone  and  wood-^a  low  stone 
wall,  with  tinnber  in  it,^  to  secure  the  parts  above 
^ound.  A  fence  of  two  rails  is  thus  made  above ; 
the  rails  being  of  plank,  about  four  inches  wide.  Of 
this  kind  of  fence,  he  has  on  his  farm  what  would 
measure  15  miles. 

The  place  enjoys  so  fine  and  healthy  a  situation,  and 
the  inn  is  so  well  kept,  being  one  of  the  best  in  this 
part  of  the  country,  that  it  is  the  resort  of  many  vi- 
siters from  di£ferent  quarters,  who  frequently  spend 
days  or  weeks  there.  The  charges  are  more  moderate 
than  at  the  Springs. 

The  view  is  commanding,  and  the  air  fine.  From 
an  eminence  west  of  the  house,  no  less  than  13  coun-> 
ties  may  be  discovered.  The  church  is  half  a  mile 
distant,  and  the  road  from  Ballston  pretty  goodr 

REMARKS  ON  THE  ROUTES. 

At  the  Springs  many  a  traveller  has  to  aiY^nge  his 
future  journeys,  either  for  business  or  pleasure ;  and 
as  Ballston  and  Saratoga  are  pre-eminently  places  of 
leisure,  some  general  nints  concerning  the  different 
routes  will  not  oe  misplaced. 

JSTorth,  The  roads  to  Lake  George,  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  Mo.:t;eal,  &c.,  belonging  more  properly  to  Sara- 
toga, will  be  given  under  that  head. 

East  The  traveller  is  referred  to  the  same  place 
and  Albany  for  the  roads  leading  into  New-England. 

South,  Three  or  four  steamboats  leave  Albany  for 
New- York  every  day,  and  as  many  arrive  from  that 
city.  Several  also  ply  every  week  between  New- 
York  and  other  pomts.  They  touch  at  numerous 
points  on  the  river,  so  that  passen§:ers  can  land  where 
they  please.    The  newspapers  wiF  furnish  all  necf  ^^ 


H 


on  J  iUbtcLv. 

raised  700 
1  is  planted  • 
r  the  other. 

low  stone 
arts  above 
ide  above;: 
wide.  Of 
/hat  would 

uation,  and 
best  in  this 
f  many  vi- 
nlJy  spend 
i  moderate 

i^e.  From 
n  13  coun- 
lalf  a  mile 


»Wnge  his 

sure;  and 

places  of 

i  different 

ce  Cham- 
y  to  Sara- 

ime  place 
Inffland. 
Llbany  for 
from  that 
en  New- 
numerous 
nd  where 
all  nect  «* 


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sAKAllMiA. 


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IS 

I 

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.*ai  V  infurutaiion  concerniMf  their  periods  oi  departure 
ana  return ;  and  coaches  irom  the  Springs  so  regulate 
their  time  as  to  accommodate  the  traveller. 

There  are  several  roads  io  Albany:  by  Waterford, 
and  Troy,  or  Gibbonsville,  and  by  Schenectady. 

From  Waterford  you  may  take  either  side  of  the 
river.  On  the  west  side  are  the  Cohoes  Falls,  the 
reiQarkable  *'nine  locks"  on  the  Erie  Canal,  the  junc- 
tion of  the  two  canals,  and  route  of  the  former  quite  to 
Albany.  0!>  the  east  side  the  road  passes  over  a 
bridge  to  Lansingburgh,  through  Troy,  and  recrosses 
by  a  good  and  safe  fen^.    {See  Index*) 

The  second  road,  which  goes  through  Schenectady, 
is  rather  circuitous,  but  will  give  the  stranger  an  op- 
portunity of  travelling  27  mnes  on  the  Erie  Canal, 
along  the  course  of  the  Mohawk. 

West.  The  grand  western  route,  through  Utica, 
and  leading  to  Niagara  and  Lake  Erie,  has  been  al* 
ready  traced  out.  The  nearest  ooint  on  this  route  is 
Schenectady,  whence  the  traveller  may  proceed  up 
the  Mohawk,  either  by  the  stage  road,  or  in  the  canal 
boats. 

The  direct  road  to  Schenectady,  however,  i£  sandy, 
aod  quite  uninteresting. 

SARATOGA  SPRINGS 

are  7  miles  from  Ballston  Springs,  and  a  coach  gene- 
rally passes  between  these  t^vo  places  every 
day  ;  besides  a  number  of  other  carriages  on  their  way 
from  Albany,  he.  What  is  called  the  regular  price 
for  these  7  miles  is  50  cents  for  a  seat.  The  ol*i  road 
is  level  and  sandy,  and  if  the  weather  be  dry  the  tra- 
veller will  probably  be  incommoded  with  dust, 
unless  he  rides  in  th^  morning  or  evening,  when  the 
ground  is  moist  with  the  dew.  The  new  road  passes 
over  higher  ground,  and  is  pleasanter  and  harder,  al- 
though somewhat  longer.  You  may  pass  nut  by  the 
rourt-house.  east,  or  turn  to  the  right  just  below  the 

0 


il 


!! 


^1 


154 


'i'H£   Hl'KlMiS. 


Sans  Souci.  You  enjoy  some  fine  views  ot  the  dis^ 
tant  hills  and  mountains ;  and  the  soil  and  crops  are 
generally  much  better  than  on  the  old  road. 

Saratoga  is  quite  concealed  until  you  are  within  a 
short  distance,  and  then  the  clusters  of  frail  board 
buildings  which  spring  up  amon^  the  stumps  of  trees 
lately  felled  in  the  skirts  of  the  pme  forest,  show  what 
an  unnatural  surplus  of  population  the  place  contains 
durm£r  the  visiting  season,  which  is  principally  in  July 
and  August.  It  may  not  be  unseasonable  to  mention 
here  the  principal  houses  in  the  order  in  which  they 
are  supposed  to  stand  on  the  list  of  gentility  :  the  Con- 
gress Hall,  $10  per  week  ;  United  States  Hotel,  do. ; 
the  Pavilion,  do. ;  and  Union  Hall  $8. 

On  reaching  the  brow  of  a  hill  which  descends  into 
the  village,  the  street  lies  in  full  view,  with  all  the 
principal  houses.  On  the  right  is  Congress  Hall  three 
stories  high  with  a  row  of  17  columns,  rising  from  the 
ground  to  the  eaves  ;  opposite  is  Union  Hall  with  a 
ix)W  of  10  similar  columns  ;  over  which  are  seen  the 
brick  walls  of  the  United  States  Hotel ;  and  still  be- 
yond, on  the  other  side,  the  roof  of  the  Pavilion. 
From  this  view  the  village  is  represented  in  the  ac- 
companying print,  which  was  taken  on  the  spot. 

On  reaching  the  foot  of  the  hiij,  the  Congress  Spring, 
the  great  attraction  of  the  place,  is  seen  at  a  short  dis- 
tance on  the  right,  usually  surrounded  with  a  throng  of 
people. 

Congress  Hall 

Las  generally  enjo^^ed  the  highest  favour  among  the 
most  fashionable  visiters  at  Saratoga,  on  account  of  its 
fine  and  imposing  appearance,  its  contiguity  to  the 
Spring,  the  number  and  size  of  its  apartments,  and 
the  style  in  which  it  is  furnished  and  kept.  It  is  196 
feet  long  on  the  street,  with  two  wings  oi  60  feet  run- 
ning back,  and  contains  lodging  for  150.  The  first 
Hoor  in  front  is  divided  in  the  following  manner :  a 


L 


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SABATOUA. 


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itbin  a 
board 
r  trees 
V  what 
ontains 
n  July 
ention 
h  they 
eCon- 
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ds  into 
ill  the 
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>m  the 
vith  a 
bn  the 
fill  be- 
vilion. 
36  ac- 

pring, 
rt  dis- 
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of  its 
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}  and 
3  196 
run- 
first 
r:  a 


dining-  room  in  the  middle,  capable  of  containing 
tables  for  all  the  house  can  accommodate ;  next  the 
dancinsj  hall,  about  80  feet  lor^,  and  south  the  ladies' 
private  parlour.   The  price  of  board  is  $10  per  week. 

The  United  States  Hall 

is  a  fine  building  of  brick,  three  stories  high,  with  a 
colonade  rising  only  to  the  second  story.  This  house 
is  excellently  well  kept,  and  is  more  substantially  built 
than  any  of  the  rest,  which  are  of  a  li^ht  construction, 
fit  only  for  the  mildest  weather ;  but  it  is  deficient  in 
public  rooms,  in  which  particular  Congress  Hall  so 
much  excels.  It  is  also  raised  so  high  from  the  street 
as  not  to  be  convenient  of  access,  although  some  pre- 
fer it  on  that  very  account. 

The   Pavilion. 

This  is  a  very  good  house  for  one  of  its  size,  and 
will  be  found  free  from  much  of  the  bustle  of  the  larger 
ones,  while  it  is  often  the  resort  of  much  company 
in  the  visiting  season.  Those  who  wish  to  arink 
often  of  the  Flat  Rock  water  will  prefer  it,  as  that 
Spring  is  only  a  few  steps  from  it  in  the  rear.  There 
is  a  fine  bathing  house  connected  with  it,  and  a  shady 
little  wood  not  far  beyond  by  the  road  side,  on  the 
way  to  the  Round  Rock  Spring. 

Union  Hall 

is  the  resort  of  those  who  wish  to  have  the  most  con- 
venient acccFS  to  the  waters  of  the  Congress  Spring, 
or  to  participate  more  moderately  in  the  amusements 
of  the  place,  and  to  avoid  the  inconveniences  of  gayetr 
and  mirth,  produced  by  the  continued  round  of  balls 
and  dances  in  the  other  principal  houses. 


I  tyi? 


THE   SPRINGS . 


The  Congress  Spring, 


which,  as  was  beiore  remarked,  is  the  great  source 
from  which  this  place  derives  its  celebrity  and  iti» 
show  of  wealth  and  importance,  was  discovered  by- 
Mr.  Putnam.  He  built  the  first  house  near  it  for  the 
accommodation  of  invalids,  which  was  subsequently 
enlarged  to  the  present  Union  Hall,  now  kept  by  his 
son.  The  Congress  Spring  was  long  concealed  by  the 
neighbouring  brook  which  formerly  passed  over  \i ; 
but  its  valuable  qualities  bein^  discovered,  it  has  at- 
tracted universal  attention,  and  the  benefits  of  its  wa- 
ters are  annually  dispensed  to  thousands. 

Mr.  Silliman  gives  the  following  analysis :  half  a 
gallon  contains  320  grains  of  salt,  26  lime  and  mas:- 
nesia,  with  a  slight  trace  of  iron. 

Tlie  Flat  Rock  Spring 

is  near  the  upper  end  of  the  street,  and  in  the  rear  oi 
the  Pavilion.  In  composition  and  qualities  it  bears  a 
resemblance  to  the  Washington  Spring  at  BaUttcmf  but 
is  far  inferior.  It  is  a  chalybeate  water,  and  the  best 
of  the  kind  in  the  place.  It  is  situated  on  the  maigin 
of  the  little  valley  in  which  all  the  springs  are  found, 
and  the  Pavilion  will  rirove  a  pleasant  house  to  inva- 
lids and  others  who  wish  to  drink  of  it  frequently. 

The  Round  Rock  Spring, 

This  Spring  is  worthy  of  a  visit  merely  as  a  natural 
curiosity  :  the  water,  although  for  a  time  much  cele- 
brated, and  indeed  the  only  attraction  of  which  Sara- 
toga could  boast,  having  gone  into  disrepute,  since  the 
discovery  of  the  sources  already  mentioned.  It  is  a 
feeble  cnalybeate  with  little  taste  and  little  effect. 
The  water  rises  in  a  smaK  rock  of  calcareous  tufa,  of 
a  conical  form,  with  a  circular  hole  in  the  middle, 
about  five  inches  in  diameter.    The  rock  is  about  fivo 


l00[f<lfmmiii9timmMtm 


mmmmkJ^ 


8AIIATUUA. 


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ieet  throug^h  at  the  l>ase,  and  has  evidontiy  been  pro- 
duced bjr  the  layers  of  lime  deposited  hy  the  water. 
Many  of  the  rocks  in  the  neighbourhood  contain  a 
large  quantity  of  lime,  where  the  carbonic  acid  of  the 
Avater  probably  obtains  the  supply  which  it  afterward 
deposites  here.  The  gradual  accretion  which  is  thus 
constantly  going  on  is  very  apparent  even  to  a  hasty 
observer.  That  part  of  the  rock  which  is  most  ex- 
posed to  the  dripping  of  water  taken  out  in  cups 
through  the  hole  in  the  top,  is  always  smooth  and  even, 
while  other  parts  are  rough  and  broken.  Fractures 
made  by  visiters  are  sometimes  found  half  obliterated 
by  a  recent  coat  of  calcareous  matter  formed  in  this 
manner.  A  horizontal  rock,  apparently  of  similar 
formation,  extends  for  a  conjiderabic  distance  under 
the  surface  of  the  ground ;  and  indeed  it  might  be 
supposed  to  reach  to  some  of  the  springs  which  rise 
in  aifferent  places  along  the  valley  above. 

The  water,  according  to  common  report,  formerly 
flowed  over  the  top,  but  has  for  many  years  found  its 
way  below,  through  a  crevice  produced  by  a  large 
forest  tree  which  lell  and  tracked  the  rock. 


Saratoga  Lake. 

An  excursion  to  this  beautiful  piece  of  water,  is  one 
of  the  most  agreeable  that  can  be  made  in  any  di- 
rection.  It  is  f>^  miles  distant,  in  a  south-easterly  di- 
rection, and  is  frequently  visited  by  parties  from  Balls- 
ton,  as  well  as  Saratoga  Springs,  as  a  good  house  has 
been  lately  erected  on  the  shore,  and  furnished  with 
every  accommodation,  by  jMr.  Riley.  Sailing  and 
fishing  on  the  lake  form  the  amusements  of  the  ex* 
cursion. 

The  first  part  of  the  way  is  by  the  eastern  road  to 

Ballston  Spa  ;  and  after  turning:  to  the  left  and  riding 

to  within  half  a  mile  of  the  lake,  a  fine  view  opens 

from  the  top  of  a  hill.    The  eye  embraces  a  part  of 

this  fine  sheet  of  water,  with  its  vsloping  and  verdant 

O  2 


i6t 


TIIK   SPRINGS. 


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: 


shores,  g:enerally  divided  by  square  fields;   with  a 
distant  view  of  the  Green  Mountains. 

At  a  considerable  distance  from  the  shore,  is  erected 
a  stagfe,  10  by  14  feet,  a  little  raised  above  the  water, 
and  capable  of  containing;  thirty  people.  The  lake 
is  there  about  seven  feet  deep,  and  the  spot  is  excel- 
lent for  ^shin^.  Parties  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  are 
taken  olf  in  l:H)ats,  and  in  hot  weather  an  awning  is 
spre?id  to  shade  them  from  the  sun. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake  is  a  remarkable 
rocky  and  woody  hill,  of  a  rounded  form,  which  is 
connected  with  the  shore  only  by  a  narrow  neck. 
The  deepest  water  is  two  miles  below,  at  Drowned 
Meadow  Cove,  where  it  is  150  or  170  feet  to  the  bot- 
tom. The  road  running  north  from  Riley's  is  plea- 
sant, but  reaches  only  half  a  mile. 

The  lake  extends  seven  miles  in  length,  and  is  two 
in  breadth.  The  shores  are  bold  and  varied,  gently 
descending  with  a  smooth  slope  to  the  margin,  or 
rising  in  rugged  crags  from  the  water's  edge ;  some- 
times softened  and  beautified  by  the  hand  of  cultiva- 
tion, and  sometimes  abandoned  to  all  their  native 
wildness. 

If  the  wind  and  weather  are  favourable,  the  visiter 
may  expect  good  sport  in  fishing ;  and  if  not,  he  may 
calculate  on  a  dinner  table  well  supplied  by  other  and 
more  fortunate  adventurers.  There  are  also  many 
kinds  of  wild  fowl,  birds,  &c.  in  the  neighbourhooa, 
so  that  a  sportsman  may  find  great  amusement  here. 

There  is  a  house  at  the  north  end  of  the  lake,  4 
miles  from  Saratoga  Springs,  kept  by  Mr.  Green,  near 
the  ferry,  where  also  visiters  are  accommodated. 

Trout  Mshinff.  Two  miles  eastward  from  the 
Springs,  is  a  Trout  Pond,  to  which  sportsmen  fre- 
quently resort. 

The  Reading  Room,  Strangers  will  find  newspa- 
pers from  different  parts  of  the  countiy,  and  will  be 
able  to  supply  themselves  with  books  of  different  de- 
scriptiojiSy  to  beguile  their  leisure  hours.    The  Rea4- 


:jssa 


-i-nTTT-mwa 


mm 


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loJ« 


ing  Room  is  at  the  iiiook  Store  of  Mr.  Davison,  a  littk; 
beyond  the  United  States  Hotel. 

A  Record  will  also  be  found  at  the  same  place,  into 
which  the  arrivals  and  departures  of  visiters  are  copied, 
once  a  day,  from  the  books  of  the  four  principal 
houses.  If  any  one  expects  to  meet  a  friend  here, 
or  wishes  to  learn  whether  he  has  already  left  Sara- 
tog^a,  he  has  only  to  refer  to  this  list  and  look  for  his 
name. 

SCHUYLERSVILLE,  12  m.from  Saratoga, 

seven  miles  from  the  battle-ground.  A  stage  coach 
leaves  Saratoga  Springs  three  mominffs  in  the  week, 
which  passes  through  this  place.  At  this  village  is 
the  place  where  Gen.  Burgoyne  was  forced  to  stop  on 
his  retreat,  on  account  of  the  flood  in  Fish  Creek,  the 
outlet  of  Saratoga  Lake  ;  and  at  Fort  Hardy,  which 
then  stood  on  its  banks,  he  surrendered  to  Gen.  Gates 
on  the  1 7th  October.  The  traces  of  his  camp  are  still 
very  discernible,  in  embankments,  ditches,  &c.  and 
the  house  in  which  he  had  his  head-quarters  stood  till 
within  a  few  years. 

The  British  Camp, 

one  mile  from  the  Fishkill,  and  opposite  the  Batenkiii 
Creek.  From  the  hill  where  the  British  encampment 
was  formed,  a  fine  and  extensive  view  may  be  had, 
upon  the  route  towards  Bemis's  Heights.  General 
Burgoyne  occupied  the  night  of  October  8th,  and  the 
followmp  day,  in  getting  to  this  place,  although  it  is 
but  7  miles,  on  account  of  the  miserable  state  of  the 
ix)ads.  Here  he  was  detained  for  several  days  by  the 
swelling  of  the  waters  of  the  creek ;  and  when  he 
crossed  the  stream,  he  left  his  hospital  with  300  sick 
and  wounded,  who  were  treated  by  Gen.  Gates  with 
every  attention. 
Here  the  further  retreat  was  cut  off:  for  the  Ameri- 


ItiO 


iH£   Sl'RlNCtf*. 


cans  were  found  in  possession  of  the  fords  of  the  Hud- 
son. Gen.  Buri^oyne  therefore  took  his  last  position  ; 
and  Gen.  Gale^  formed  his  camp  behind,  while  Mor- 
gan took  post  on  the  west  ana  north  of  the  British, 
and  Gen.  Fellows,  with  3000  men^  was  stationed  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  American  troops  were 
also  in  Fort  Edward,  and  on  the  high  ground  towards 
Lake  George. 

While  remaining  in  this  situation,  the  British  were 
continually  exposed  to  the  fire  of  their  enemies,  as  well 
as  reduced  by  want  of  provision.  Six  days  passed 
thus;  when  on  the  17th  of  October,  1777,  a  conven- 
tion was  signed,  and  the  armv,  being  marched  to  the 
meadow  near  Old  Fort  Hardy,  piled  their  arms  and 
surrendered  prisoners  of  war,  to  the  number  of  5752 
effective,  with  528  sick  and  wounded.  This  meadow 
is  in  sight  from  the  inn. 

The  House  of  Gen,  Schuyler  stood  on  the  spot  now 
occupied  by  that  of  his  grandson.  It  was  burnt  by 
Buigoyne  on  his  retreat,  together  with  his  mills  ;  not- 
withstanding which,  the  British  officers  were  after- 
ward received  at  his  house  in  Albany,  and  treated  with 
great  kindness. 

Remarks  on  the  Routes. 

J^orth, — Three  great  routes  from  the  Springs  to- 
wards the  north  may  be  particularized,  although  they 
run  almost  side  by  side,  and  all  unite  on  arriving  at 
Lake  Champlain.  1st,  The  fashionable  route,  to 
Caldwell,  on  Lake  Geoige.  2d,  The  Northern,  or 
Champlain  Canal.  3d,  The  road  to  Whitehall,  the 
direct  route  on  the  way  to  Montreal.* 

The  Jlrst  of  these  is  usually  travelled  by  strangers 
of  taste  and  leisure,  as  it  conducts  directly  to  the  tine 
scenery  of  Lake  George,  and  the  battle-grounds  in  its 

♦There  also  are  two  stage  roiitps  to  Montreal,  one  on  each  side  of 
I/ake  Champlain.    The  mail  now  goes  to  Montreal  rtnily. 


SAKATOl^A. 


l(il 


vicinity;  and  passes  near  several  otlier  spots  of  hia^h 
riiterest  fur  their  historical  associations.  It  is  witii  a 
particular  view  to  this  route,  that  the  places  soon  to 
Le  mentioned  will  be  arranged  and  described.  Even 
if  a  journey  to  Montreal  is  intended,  it  can  hardly  be 
too  ui^ently  pressed  upon  the  stranger  to  devote  a 
leisure  day  or  two  to  Lake  George  on  his  way,  as  he 
will  find  himself  most  amply  rewarded,  and  can  join 
the  great  route  with  facility  at  Ticonderoga. 

The  second  route,  by  the  Northern  Canal,  may  be 
met  near  the  battle-ground  at  fiemis^s  Heights  :  but 
it  has  hitherto  ofered  in  this  part  no  boat  expressly  for 
passengers.  In  fine  weather,  however,  gentlemen 
may  travel  very  ple&santly  for  a  few  miles  in  the 
common  freight  boats. 

The  third  route  is  the  road  to  Whitehall,  which  is 
iumished  with  public  carriages  from  the  Springs 
during  the  warm  season,  and,  like  the  canal,  passes 
near  some  of  the  interesting  places  to  be  mentioBed 
hereafter.  From  Whitehall  the  traveller  may  proceed 
down  Lake  Champlain  in  the  daily  steamboats,  or  by 
land  in  the  mail  coach. 

East, — Travellers  wishing  to  go  to  any  part  of  the 
country  in  this  direction,  may  take  their  choice  of 
several  routes.  Lines  of  stage  coaches  run  to  Con- 
necticut river  from  Burlington,  Middlebury,  Castleton, 
and  Granville,  as  well  as  from  Troy  and  Albzny,  in 
various  directions — to  Hanover,  Brattleborough,  Green- 
field, Northampton,  Springfield,  Hartford ;  and  there 
subdividing  into  numerous  ramifications,  offer  the 
means  of  conveyance  to  every  part  of  New-England. 

To  meet  most  of  these  routes,  it  will  be  necessary 
to  proceed  to  some  point  north  or  south  of  the  Springs, 
for  which  public  carriages  are  established  in  several 
directions  from  Saratoga  and  Ballston,  concerning 
which,  arrangements  may  be  made  at  the  bar  of  the 
house  where  the  stranger  is  lodged. 

It  is  also  important  to  mention,  that  two  lines  of 
ro^rhes  run  alonsr  the  roiirses  of  Hudson  River  and 


162 


KXCT7B6ION  TO  LAKE  GBOSirE. 


I'll'' 


f 


Wood  Creek,  one  on  each  side  ;  and  that  the  eastern 
one  carries  the  mail  through  Castleton,  Middlebury, 
Burlington,  &c.  along  the  course  of  Lake  Champlain, 
though  generally  at  too  great  a  distance  to  command 
a  view  of  it.  The  country  there  is  very  fine,  the  vil- 
lages beautiful,  and  the  surface  frequently  mountainous. 

This  road  meets  several  of  the  eastern  roads ;  but 
the  traveller  will  probably  prefer  to  take  one  of  the 
four  steamboats,  as  he  can  land  at  the  most  important 
points. 

The  most  interesting  route  that  can  be  chosen  by  a 
man  of  taste,  from  the  Springs  to  Boston,  is  through 
Vermont  to  the  White  Mountains,  and  Winnipiseogee 
Lake  in  New-Hampshire.  He  may  take  what  road 
ke  pleases  to  Connecticut  River. 

For  the  roads  leading  south  and  west  from  the  Springs 
he  is  referred  directly  to  Ballston,  where  those  routes 
are  particularly  mentioned  and  described. 

litie  has  never  visited  the  Battle  Ground  at  Bemis's 
Heights^  or,  as  it  is  usually  called,  of  Saratoga,  it  may 
be  recommended  to  him  to  take  that  interesting  place 
in  his  way,  and  to  refer  to  page  135  for  the  descrip- 
tion of  it. 

EXCURSION  TO  LAKE  GEORGE,  27  miles. 

This  is  by  far  the  most  delightful,  as  well  as  fashion- 
able excursion  which  can  be  made  from  the  Springs 
in  any  direction,  as  it  abounds  with  some  of  t\  )  finest 
scenery  in  the  United  States,  and  in  numer(3us  sites 
and  objects  intimately  connected  with  the  history  of 
the  country. 

.  A  stage  coach  leaves  Saratoga  Springs  every  morn- 
ing for  Caldwell,  at  the  south  end  of  the  lake,  passing 
through  Glenn's  Falls. 

From  the  time  of  the  earliest  wars  between  the 
British  colonies  and  the  French  in  Canada,  to  that  of 
1756,  the  tract  over  which  part  of  our  route  lies  was 
the  high  road  of  war.    It  was  traversed  by  many  a 


the  eastern 
>Iiddlebury, 
Cbamplain, 
5  command 
ine,  the  vil- 
lountainous. 
roads ;  but 
one  of  the 
it  important 

:hosen  by  a 

•  is  through 

nnipiseogee 

what  road 

the  Springs 
ihose  routes 

i  at  Bemis's 
9ga,  it  may 
isting  place 
he  descrip- 


27  miles. 

as  fashion- 
he  Springs 
)f  tK  ^  finest 
lerous  sites 
J  history  of 

veiy  morn- 
ke,  passing 

jtween  the 
I,  to  that  of 
te  lies  was 
by  many  a 


12 


UL^NN  S  FALLS. 


163 


hostile  expedition,  in  which  the  splendour  and  power 
of  European  arms  mingled  with  the  fierce  tactics  of 
savage  warriors  :  the  ruins  of  fortresses  are  still  to  be 
traced  in  several  places,  and  tradition  points  to  many 
a  spot  that  has  been  sprinkled  with  blood.  During 
the  Revolution,  also,  some  of  the  important  events  in 
our  histoiy,  took  place  in  this  neighbourhood.  The 
battle  of  Saratoga,  and  the  defeat  of  General  Burgoyne 
have  been  already  dwelt  upon ;  but  we  shall  have  to 
refer  more  than  once  to  his  expedition  as  we  pass 
other  scenes  with  which  the  events  of  it  are  connected. 
The  Journey  to  Montreal  may  be  made  hy  the  way 
of  Lake  George;  and  this  route  the  book  will  pursue, 
to  Montreal  and  Quebec,  whither  the  reader,  it  is 
hoped,  will  accompany  it. 

The  road  from  Saratoga  to  Glenn's  Falls, 

18  miles. 

Wilton,  7  m. — Here  take  the  left-hand  road,  where 
a  small  house  stands  at  the  angle.  This  will  prove 
the  better  r jute,  and  meets  Jthe  other  branch  twice,  at 
four  and  six  miles  distance.  Thirteen  miles  beyond, 
the  road  branches  off  eastward  for  Sandy  Hill. 

Half  a  mile  before  reaching  the  villaire,  the  road 
enters  a  rich  plain,  probably  once  overflown  by  the 
river,  which  is  now  discovered  on  the  left,  dividmg  it 
in  its  course,  while  the  village  appears  in  iront,  with 
a  handsome  church  sf»ire,  and  a  number  of  neat  white 
houses,  all  backed  by  the  mountains,  which  here 
stretch  off  towards  the  north. 

French  Mountain  is  the  most  prominent  eminence, 
of  which  more  anon.  A  more  distant  range  is  like- 
wise seen  further  to  the  right. 

Glenn's  Falls. — If  the  traveller  is  going  on  immedi- 
ately to  the  lake,  he  should  stop  a  few  moments  on 
the  bridge,  to  see  the  falls  in  the  Hudson,  which  are 
in  full  view  below.  The  river  here  makes  a  sudden 
descent  of  37  feet,  over  a  rock  of  dark  blue  limestone. 


^1 


m 


1 


\ 


f\ 


f 


lOA 


i:\Ot fiSlO^'    TO   I4AKK    HKOiUiL. 


which  has  been  worn  into  so  many  forms  as  to  break 
up  the  current  in  a  very  singular  manner.  The  pro- 
jection of  two  large  masses  of  rock  divides  the  water 
into  three  sheets  (except  when  it  is  much  swollen  by 
floods).  Of  these,  the  northern  one  is  much  the  lai^- 
est,  and  the  other  two  unite  and  pass  through  a  deep 
channel,  about  15  feet  wide.  A  man  jumped  off  the 
bridge  here,  twice,  a  few  years  ago,  yet  escaped 
without  serious  im ury.  The  most  water  passes  through 
the  other  channel.* 

A  dam  is  thrown  across  just  above  the  falls,  which 
supplies  a  Cotton  Manufactory  of  Stone  with  water, 
as  well  as  several  mills.  On  the  north  side  of  the 
river  is  a  canal,  which  is  intended  for  a  feeder  to  the 
Champlain  canal,  and  passes  along  the  elevated  bank. 
It  now  furnishes  water  tor  several  mills,  and  an  artificial 
cascade. 

The  great  flat  rock  which  supports  the  bridge,  pro- 
jects beyond  it,  and  affords  space  for  a  small  garden  on 
its  highest  part,  although  the  greater  part  of  it  is  over- 
flown in  high  floods.  Like  the  other  rocky  strata 
there,  it  has  a  gentle  dip  towards  the  south,  and  a  per- 
pendicular fracture  running  nearly  north  and  south. 

Caverns. — Passing  through  the  garden,  and  turning 
to  the  left,  the  mouths  of  two  caverns  are  found  facing 
the  north,  in  different  places  among  the  rocks.  They 
have  been  cut  through  by  the  rushing  of  water,  in  a 
direction  across  the  river's  course,  and  corresponding 
with  the  natural  fracture.  The  first  is  just  large  enough 
to  permit  the  passage  of  a  man,  and  is  cut  with  sur- 
prising regularity  lor  a  distance  of  about  25  feet. 
This  place  is  made  the  scene  of  some  of  the  most  in- 

*  Sandy  Htll^  3  miles  eastward. — This  village  is  pleasantly  situated 
at  the  next  fall  in  the  river  below.  The  cascade  is  less  remarkable  as 
an  object  of  curiosity  and  interest,  but  it  is  still  worthy  of  attention  if 
the  stranger  have  sufficient  time  at  his  disposal.  He  will  And  a  pleasant 
road  onward ;  and  if  he  should  be  on  his  return  from  Lake  George,  and 
wishes  to  visit  this  part  of  the  river,  the  Field  uf  Surrender,  or  Vu  Bat- 
He  Ground,  before  reaching  Saratoga  or  Ballston,  he  will  find  it  con 
vpnient  to  follow  the  course  of  the  river.    The  village  has  a  good  inn- 

For  a  description  of  the  principul  scenes  of  ihis  route,  see  Imkx. 


FUENCM   MOUNTAINS'. 


ItJJ 


leresiiiiff  chapters  of  Mr.  Cooper's  novel  ol  The  Last  of 
the  Mohicans.  The  cavern  (perhaps  altered  since 
1757)  was  the  place  where  the  wanderers  secreted 
themselves,  and  were  made  captives.  The  cavern 
conducts  to  one  of  the  river's  channels,  where  it  opens 
on  the  side  of  a  precipice,  directly  over  the  water. 
The  banks  of  the  river  are  perpendicular  rocks  as  far 
as  can  be  seen;  and  nearly  opposite  the  caverns, 
under  the  north  bank,  is  an  abundant  spring  of  fine, 
pure  water,  which  pours  from  a  hole  in  the  rock,  a 
i'ew  feet  from  the  surface  of  the  river. 

About  half-way  between  this  place  and  Sandy  Hill, 
a  convoy  of  wagons  was  r^ttacked  in  the  French  war, 
on  their  way  to  Lake  George. 

Nearly  north  of  Glenn's  Falls,  is  Luzerne  Mountain  ; 
and  a  little  to  the  right  of  it,  French  Mountain.  Be- 
tween them  passes  the  road  to  Lake  Georce.  Towards 
the  west,  a  range  of  high  hills  encloses  the  view,  and 
in  the  east,  the  Vermont  Mountains  make  a  fine  ap- 
pearance. 

Near  the  foot  of  French  Mountain  is  a  small  tavern, 
on  the  east  side  of  the  road  ;  and  near  this  place  Gen. 
Dieskau's  advanced  guard  struck  the  route  from  Glenn's 
Falls  and  Fort  Edward  to  Fort  William  Henry.  The 
valley  through  which  we  pass  is  narrow  for  some  dis- 
tance beyond ;  and  after  about  half  an  hour's  ride  (for 
there  are  no  mile  stones),  a  little  circular  pond  is  dis- 
covered on  the  east  side,  and  close  by  the  road.  It  is 
generally  almost  concealed  with  water  plants. 

This  was  near  the  place  of  action  between  Colonel 
Williams  and  General  Dieskau.  The  latter  had  ex- 
tended his  troops  across  the  path,  and  advanced  his 
wings  some  distance  in  front,  the  left  wing  occupying 
the  rising  ground  on  the  west  side  of  the  road  near 
this  place.  A  small  cleared  spot  may  be  noticed  on 
the  other  side,  a  little  beyond  the  pond  (in  1825  a  hut 
stood  upon  it),  that  is  said  to  have  been  the  principal 
scene  ot  action  ;  and  a  singular  rock  near  by  is  pointed 
f^u%  by  tradition  as  the  mark  of  Col.  Williams's  grave. 


ItiG 


ExcrnsioN  to  iake  ceokge. 


i  \ 


.  I 


This,  however,  is  considered  veiy  doubtful ;  by  otiiers 
it  is  said  that  he  ascended  the  rock  to  reconnoitre, 
and  was  shot  from  its  summit.    [Page  170.) 

The  little  pond  above  mentioned  was  the  place 
where  most  of  the  dead  were  thrown,  and  it  bears  the 
name  of  Bloody  Pond  to  this  day.  It  is  probably 
much  smaller  than  formerly.  In  1825  the  skeleton  of 
a  man  was  dug  up  from  a  depth  of  one  and  a  half  feet, 
near  the  pond,  with  a  marble  pipe,  and  some  silver- 
eyed  buttons  bearing^  the  royal  stamp.  This  pond  is 
nearly  circular,  and  is  covered,  in  its  season,  with 
the  Pond  Lily  (Nymphea  Alba),  which  expands  its 
flowers  on  the  surface  of  the  water. 

About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  beyond  this  place,  is  a 
fine  view  of 

LAKE  GEORGE. 

Coming  to  the  brow  of  a  higu  bill,  the  prospect 
opens,  and  the  lake  appears,  enclosed  by  mountains, 
many  of  which,  at  this  distance,  are  of  a  deep  blue. 
The  side  of  French  Mountain  is  near  at  hand  on  the 
east,  covered  with  thick  trees  to  the  summit ;  while 
the  smoothness  of  the  lake,  the  beauty  of  its  nearest 
shore,  with  the  neat  white  building's  of  Caldwell,  com- 
,municLte  to  the  scene  a  degree  of  beauty  and  seclu- 
sion, which  can  hardly  be  found  in  an)^  other  spot. 
Directly  at  the  south  end  of  Lake  George,  are  the 
remains  of  Forts  George  and  William  Henry,  famous 
in  the  history  of  the  h  rench  war ;  and  on  the  site  of 
the  former  was  General  .Johnson's  camp,  when  he  was 
attacked  by  Dieskau.  The  particulars  of  the  action 
will  be  given  hereafter. 

Caldwell. 

The  village  of  Caldwell  is  the  place  at  which  the 
visiter  will  stop  to  take  a  view  of  this  charming  lake, 
•^nd  from  which  he  will  make  his  excursions  across  it? 


ly  others 
onnoitre, 

ie  piace 
bears  the 
probably 
eJeton  of 
half  feet, 
le  silver- 
5  pond  is 
on,  with 
pands  its 

lace,  is  a 


prospect 
ountains, 
lep  blue, 
d  on  the 
t ;  while 
5  nearest 
ell,  com- 
id  seclu- 
ler  spot. 
,  are  the 
,  famous 
e  site  of 
n  he  was 
le  action 


^ 


hicli  the 
ing  lake, 

jcrosfs  itF 


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/ 

V 

be: 

of 

of 

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strj 

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sev 

■    r 

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haj 

Vt^x  mm 

rar 
thi. 
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the 

1 

bre 

brc 
wa 
ina 

wa 
bag 
fon 

i                   , 
i 

V  ■ 

cut 

rise 

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ap 
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LAKE    (jiEOUCiE. 


IG 


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v-r 


beautiful  waters.  The  villa§:e  stands  at  the  south  end 
of  the  lake,  and  on  its  shore,  commanding  a  fine  view 
of  the  neighbouring  sheet  of  water  and  the  mountains 
by  which  it  is  almost  enclosed.  The  inn  to  which 
strangers  resort,  occupies  a  spot  peculiarly  fitted  to 
gratify  the  eye  of  taste,  as  it  overlooks  the  lake  for 
several  miles,  and  the  view  is  not  interrupted  by  any 
neighbouring  obstacle.  A  more  delightful  place  can 
hardly  be  found  in  the  United  States,  for  the  tempo- 
rary residence  of  one  who  takes  delight  in  scenery  of 
this  description,  and  lov?s  to  recur  to  deeds  long  past, 
and  to  exploits  great  in  themselves  and  important  in 
their  results  even  to  the  present  day. 

Lake  George  is  34  miles  long,  and  its  greatest 
breadth  4.  At  the  south  end  it  is  only  about  one  mile 
broad.  The  greatest  depth  is  sixty  fathoms.  The 
water  is  remarkable  for  its  purity — a  fish  or  a  stone 
may  be  seen  at  the  depth  of  20  or  30  feet.  It  is  un- 
doubtedly supplied  by  springs  from  below,  as  the 
water  is  coldest  near  the  bottom.  It  contains  trout, 
bass,  and  perch.  There  are  deer  in  the  neighbouring 
forest.  The  outlet  which  leads  to  Lake  Champlain 
contains  three  large  falls  and  rapids.  The  lake  never 
rises  more  than  two  feet. 

The  three  best  points  of  view  are  at  Fort  Geoige, 
a  place  north  of  Shelving  Rock,  14  miles,  and  another 
at  Sabbath  Day  Point,  21  miles  from  the  head  of  the 
lake.  The  last  view  is  taken  southward,  the  other 
two  northward. 

This  beautiful  basin,  with  its  pure  crystal  water, 
is  bounded  by  two  ranges  of  mountains,  which,  in 
some  places  rising  with  a  bold  and  hasty  ascent  from 
the  water,  and  in  others  descending  with  a  graceful 
sweep  from  a  great  height  to  a  broad  and  level  mar- 
gin, luniish  it  w^th  a  charming  variety  of  scenery, 
which  every  change  of  weather,  as  well  as  every 
ehange  of  position,  presents  in  new  and  countless 
beauties.  The  intermixture  of  cultivation  with  the 
nvild  scenes  of  nature  is  extremely  agreeable  :  and 


](jti 


PAcURalON    TO   LAKE    ^j^EOUUK. 


ti'l 


'  ■ 


^1 


I 


i 


\\ 


the  undulating^  surface  of  the  weM-tilled  farm  is  often 
contrasted  with  the  deep  shade  of  the  native  forest, 
and  the  naked,  weather-beaten  clilfs,  where  no  vepje- 
tation  can  dwell. 

The  situation  of  the  hol^^  '  ielightful,  surpassing 
that  of  almost  every  other  1  .  found  in  this  part  of 
the  country.  The  traveller  may  hereafter  take  plea- 
sure in  comparing  the  scene  enjoyed  from  his  window, 
with  those  he  may  witness  from  the  walls  of  Quebec, 
Masonic  fiall  at  Montreal,  and  Forsyth's  at  Niagara. 
The  house  is  very  large,  having  been  increased  within 
a  year  or  two  by  the  addition  of  a  long  wing,  three 
stories  hi^h,  so  that  it  is  now  capable  of  furnishing 
lodgings  for  one  hundred  persons,  and  the  apartments 
are  so  arranged,  that  half  of  them  look  out  upon  the 
lake.  A  green  and  handsome  slope  descends  about 
200  yards  to  the  very  mat^in,  where  there  is  no 
obstruction  but  a  few  trees  and  scattering  buildings. 
There  is  the  wharf,  at  which  the  steamboat  receives 
and  lands  her  passengers,  often  adding  much  variety 
to  the  place  by  an  addition  of  company.  The  dis- 
charge of  the  signal  gun  makes  fine  echoes  among  the 
mountains  in  a  clear  night. 

The  lake  is  here  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
wide,  and  the  range  of  mountains  opposite,  which  are 
high  and  uninterrupted,  are  quite  uncultivated,  with 
the  exception  of  a  few  farms  near  the  shore  ;  the 
other  parts  being  covered  with  trees  almost  to  the 
water. 

On  the  right  is  seen  the  south  end  of  the  lake,  which 
is  formed  of  low  land  for  some  distance  back,  suc- 
ceeded by  French  Mountain  in  the  rear.  On  a  little 
point,  halt  covered  with  trees,  and  rising  only  about 
26  feet  above  the  water,  is  the  site  of  Fort  William 
Henry ;  and  about  a  mile  towards  the  south-east  from 
it,  on  a  considerable  elevation,  are  the  ruins  of  Fort 
George.  For  the  history  of  these  once  important  little 
/ortresse.s.  seepage  170. 


'"^Nrtui 


I.AKX:  C.'ROlUiE. 


IHO 


Excursions  on  the  Lake,  Fishing,  &:c. 

Boats  are  kept  at  the  wharf  to  convey  passengers 
to  any  part  of  the  iieighbouiine:  shores  and  islands. 
Fine  perch,  or  black  bass,  {Perca  Franklinia),  are 
caught  in  abundance  almost  every  where  ;  and  trout, 
at  tne  mouth  of  a  small  stream  near  the  south  end. 
Fishing  rods  and  tackle  may  be  obtained  at  the  hotel ; 
and  a  variety  of  other  fish  are  to  be  fuund. 

Diamond  Island  is  a  few  miles  dowii  the  lake,  and 
is  famous  for  abounding  in  crystals  of  quartz,  which  are 
found  in  a  loose  rock  by  digging  a  little  under  the  sur- 
face. They  are  found,  however,  in  e^ual  numbers  in 
several  of  the  other  islands ;  and  it  is,  after  all,  the 
easier  way  to  purchase  them,  and  not  to  permit  the 
labour  of  searching  for  them  to  interfere  with  the  plea- 
sure of  the  excursion,  particularly  as  that  labour  is 
often  ineffectual.  A  poor  family  lived  on  Diamond 
Island,  subsisting  partly  on  a  small  spot  of  tilled  land, 
and  partly  on  the  produce  of  the  crystals  sold  to 
visiters. 

Tea  Island,  about  2  miles  down  the  lake,  is  another 
favourite  retreat.  The  little  bay  in  which  the  boats 
land  is  remarkably  retired  and  beautiful,  and  there 
is  an  old  hut  standing  which  affords  something  of  a 
shelter. 

Long  Island  contains  about  100  acres,  and  has  been 
inhabited  and  cultivated.  Besides  these,  there  are 
many  other  islands  on  the  neighbouring  parts  of  the 
lake ;  and  those  who  are  fond  of  such  excursions 
would  be  highly  delighted  >i^ith  devoting  several  days 
to  visit  them.  The  finest  cluster  is  in  the  Narrows, 
about  12  miles  distant.  These  will  be  spoken  of 
hereafter. 

One  steamboat  usually  goes  three  times  a  week  to 
the  north  end  of  the  lake  ;  but  is  always  ready  to  per- 

V  2 


170 


EXCURSION   TO   tAKK   fiT.OJiQZ. 


: 


I 


i 


form  that  excursion,  and  will  take  a  party  of  twciity 
or  more  for  $1  each. 

West  of  the  villagfe  is  a  remarkahle  conical  eminence^ 
called  Rattlesnakes^  Cobble,  or  Prospect  Hill,  This,  as 
well  as  the  rnuuntains  beyond  it,  is  the  habitation  of 
hears  and  deer,  and  much  infested  with  rattlesnakes. 
The  view  from  the  top  is  very  fine.  It  is  the  place 
from  which  Hawk-eye,  jn  the  "  Last  of  the  Mohicans," 
leads  his  companions  into  Fort  William  Henry  through 
the  mist. 

The  French  Approaches.  The  villap:e  of  Caldwell 
is  of  recent  date.  In  the  French  war,  during  the  siege 
of  Fort  William  Henry,  the  ground  which  it  now  occu- 
pies was  crossed  by  the  irenches  and  batteries  with 
which  Montcalm  finally  succeeded  in  forcing  the  capi- 
tulation of  that  little  fortress. 

The  place  where  he  landed  with  his  army  is  the 
little  cove  just  behind  the  new  stone  building,  a  few 
steps  north  of  the  hotel.  He  erected  his  battery  near 
the  shore,  and  ran  his  first  trench  across  the  street  into 
the  fields  in  front  of  the  hotel.  The  remains  may  still 
be  traced,  as  well  as  the  marks  of  a  small  mortar  bat- 
tery, near  the  bars  of  a  fence  leading  to  a  small  house. 
Another  line  runs  to  the  bank  of  the  lake,  on  this  side 
of  the  brook,  where  was  also  a  batteiy ;  and  another 
borders  the  swamp  to  the  right,  andi  another  turns 
.southward  along  the  high  ground.  Behind  this,  in  a 
pine  wood,  are  the  graves  of  about  1000  French  sol- 
diers, who  died  in  the  fort. 

Battle  of  Lake  George. 

In  1755,  the  year  after  the  commencement  of  the 
French  War,  3000  men  were  sent  out  from  France  to 
QjLiebec,  for  the  purpose  of  taking  Oswego  Fort.  This 
was  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oswego  or  Onon- 
dago  River,  and  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Ontario.  The 
position  derived  its  consequence  from  circumstances 
^vhich  no  lonerer  exist :  the  Indian  trade  from  up  the 


L 

N 


a  I 

t 
o 


JiATTLE   OF    LAKV   GikiKliL. 


Ill 


Lakes,  the  facility  of  communication  with  the  Five 
Nations  through  that  place,  and  the  peculiar  nature  of 
the  shores  of  Xake  Ontario,  which  would  not  permit 
na violation  (by  canoes)  on  the  other  side.  There  the 
two  gjreat  branches  of  Indian  trade  concentrated  ;  and 
the  nation  which  held  possession  of  the  point  neces- 
sarily swayed  a  great  influence  over  the  Indians  them- 
selves :  an  advantage  frequently  of  still  greater  impor- 
tance to  the  country.  Oswego  Fort  naturally  became 
an  object  both  to  the  French  and  the  Ei^lish  at  that 
time,  and  it  formed  a  prominent  figure  in  the  history 
of  the  war.  The  English  being  in  possession  of  that 
little  fortress  at  the  commencement  of  hostilities,  its 
defence  might  doubtless  have  been  easily  secured, 
bad  their  operations  been  conducted  with  common 
prudence  and  energy.  Unfortunately,  they  were  con- 
ducted in  a  very  different  manner  ;  and  whoever  would 
aee  a  clear  and  able  history  of  the  first  English  expe- 
ditions in  that  war,  and  of  the  political  party  spirit 
which  then  ruled  in  this  country  and  rendered  them 
worse  than  ineffectual,  is  referred  to  "  A  Letter  to  a 
Lord,^*  written  soon  after. 

In  1755,  Gen.  Johnson,  (afterward  Sir  William,) 
marched  to  the  south  end  of  Lake  George  with  a  con- 
siderable number  of  men,  joined  by  the  famous  Capt. 
Hendrick,  with  many  Indians  of  the  Five  Nations,  in- 
tending to  take  Fort  Frederick,  now  Crown  Point. 
Gen.  Dieskau  was  sent  to  oppose  him,  with  3000  men, 
principally  taken  from  a  body  of  French  troops  sent 
out  to  Quebec,  600  of  whom  had  fallen  into  the  hands 
of  Admiral  Boscawen  at  sea.  Dieskau  had  first  de- 
signed to  besiege  Fort  Oswego.  At  Fort  Frederick, 
or  Crown  Point,  he  remained  some  time,  and  then  de- 
termined to  go  and  meet  the  English.  He  therefore 
went  up  the  South  Bay,  where,  learning  the  situation 
of  Fort  Lyman  (now  Fort  Edward,)  he  wished  to 
attack  it  and  cut  off  the  retreat  of  Gen.  Johnson.  The 
Indians  and  Canadians,  however,  were  in  dread  of  the 


r 


ni2 


XCUUSION   TO   LAKE   ti£OBGC. 


cannon  w  ilh  which  it  was  supposed  to  be  defended, 
and  he  was  obliged  to  march  against  Johnson. 

Surday,  Sept.  7th,  at  niidnight,  a  scout  brought 
Johnson  intelligence  that  Dieskau  was  con>ing.  1200 
men  were  sent  out  in  the  morning,  under  the  command 
of  Col.  Ephraim  Williams,  who  met  them  at  Rocky 
Brook,  drawn  up  in  a  semicircle,  into  which  the 
English  entered  before  they  knew  it.  A  heavy  fire 
from  three  sides  first  showed  them  the  position  oftheir 
enemies.  The  English  stood  their  ground  valiantly ; 
but  Col.  Williams  and  Hendrick  being  both  shot  down, 
together  with  many  others,  they  were  obliged  to  be- 
gin their  retreat,  which  was  conducted  by  Col.  Whi- 
ting with  the  greatest  coolness  and  success. 

The  centre  of  the  English  army  was  posted  on  the 
hill  wh,ere  the  ruins  of  Fort  George  now  are  ;  and  the 
French  were  discovered  by  them  at  half  past  11. 
Dieskau  halted  at  the  sight  of  his  enemies,  probably 
entertaining  some  mistaken  idea  of  the  strength  of 
their  position,  and  gave  them  time  to  recover  from 
their  panic.  The  ground  on  both  sides  of  the  English 
camp  was  marshy  and  covered  with  trees,  and  Dies- 
kau sent  his  Indians  out  on  the  right  flank  and  the 
Canadians  on  the  left,  to  surround  them.  Col.  Pome- 
roy,  however,  soon  put  the  former  to  flight  with  a  few 
cannon  shots.  Dieskau  then  brought  up  his  troops  in 
front,  and  made  them  fire  by  platoons,  but  with  very 
little  effect.  Gen.  Johnson  (happily  for  his  own  troops) 
was  slightly  wounded  in  the  thigh,  and  had  to  walk 
back  to  his  tent,  leaving  the  command  with  Gen. 
Lyman.  He  directed  the  defence  for  five  hours,  aided 
by  Capt.  Eyre's  artillery  ;  when  the  French  turned 
upon  the  English  right,  which  consisted  of  Ruggles's, 
Pojiieroy's,  and  Tittecomb's  regiments,  and  extended 
from  the  road  to  where  Fort  William  Henry  was  after- 
ward built.  Here  they  fought  an  hour,  but  the 
English  and  Indians  charging  them,  they  took  to 
flight  and  many  were  killed.    Gen.  Dieskau  himself 


.MASSACRE   AT  FORT  WILLIAiT   HENRV.        1  IS 

was  found  leaning  against  a  stump  wounded— a  sol- 
dier approaching  saw  him  put  his  hand  to  his  waist, 
to  take  out  his  watch,  which  he  intended  to  offer  to 
him,  and  supposing  he  was  drawing  a  pistol,  shot 
him  through  the  thigh.  He  was  carried  to  the  fort 
by  eight  men  in  a  blanket,  and  it  is  said  deterred 
Johnson  from  ordering  a  pursuit,  by  saying  he  had  a 
strong  force  near  at  hand.  Gen.  Lyman  ui^ed  to  fol- 
low up  their  victory  ;  but  that  was  probably  a  suffi- 
cient reason  for  its  being  refused  by  a  superior  officer, 
who  looked  upon  his  great  talents  with  jealousy,  and, 
in  spite  of  the  advantage  the  country  had  derived 
frofn  his  services,  at  a  time  when  they  were  pecu- 
liarly valuable,  did  not  even  mention  the  name  of  Gen. 
Lyman  in  his  account  of  the  battle ! — Johnson  was 
made  a  Baronet,  and  Lyman  lingered  out  a  few  years 
in  poverty  and  disappointment,  and  died  without  re- 
ceiving even  the  notice  of  the  British  government. 

The  English  are  said  to  have  lost  only  216  in  killed 
and  96  wounded.  Gen.  Dieskau  estimated  his  own 
loss  at  1000 — the  English  called  it  much  less.  The 
principal  were  a  major-general,  and  M.  de  St.  Pierre, 
the  commander  of  the  Indians.  The  French  lost  their 
baggage  during  the  action,  left  two  miles  in  their  rear, 
it  being  attacked  by  Captains  Folsom  and  JVfGinnies 
with  about  100  New- York  troops ;  who  then  lay  in 
wait  for  the  retreating  French,  and  killed  great  num- 
bers of  them. 

Gen.  Johnson  might  have  taken  Crown  Point ;  but 
he  delayed  it  so  long,  that  the  French  advanced  to 
Ticonderoga  and  there  fortified  themselves  securely. 

The  Capture  and  Massacre  of  Fort  Willia3I 

HtXRY. 

So  different  was  the  state  of  the  country  sixhr  years 
ago,  and  so  much  in  its  infancy  was  the  art  of  war  in 
these  wild  regions,  that  a  small  work  of  earth  thrown 
tjp  on  this  site,  and  railed  Fort  William  Henry,  was 


174 


XrSCt'BSION   TO   LAKE    GEOUdE. 


'?1 


regarded  as  a  fortress  of  considerable  strength  and  con- 
sequence. 

In  1757,  the  Earl  of  Loudon,  British  Commander-in- 
Chief  in  America,  made  an  unsuccessful  attempt  by 
sea  against  Louisburg ;  and  before  his  return  to  New- 
York  in  August,  the  French  from  Ticonderoga,  under 
the  Marquis  de  Montcalm,  had  made  three  attacks  on 
Fort  William  Henry.  On  the  1st  of  August  they  set 
out  again,  and  landed  at  Frenchman's  Point.  On  the 
evening  of  the  2d,  they  crossed  to  the  west  side  of 
Lake  George,  within  two  miles  of  the  Fort,  and  the 
next  morning  sent  in  their  summons.  Col.  Monroe 
defended  himself  resolutely  tor  six  days,  hoping  relief 
from  Gen.  Webb  and  his  6000  men  at  Fort  Edward ; 
but  having  waited  in  vain,  and  burst  ten  of  his  largest 
cannon,  he  was  obliged  to  surrender,  and  marciied 
out  with  the  honours  of  war  and  an  assurance  of  being 
protected  from  the  Indians  in  Montcalm's  army. 

He  had  gone  but  a  little  way,  however,  when  the 
savages  fell  upon  hi>  troops  and  butchered  about  1500, 
men,  women,  and  children. 

Gen.  Webb's  conduct  was  most  inhuman.  The  pro- 
vincial troops  were  kept  under  arms  for  one  whole 
day  after  the  news  of  the  siege  arrived  at  Fort  Ed- 
ward, and  Sir  William  Johnson  was  very  desirous  to 
march  with  them  to  its  relief;  but  Webb  ordered  them 
back  to  their  quarters,  and  sent  a  messenger  to  Col. 
Monroe  advising  him  to  surrender. 

Attack  on  Fort  Ticonderoga. 

The  south  end  of  Lake  George  was  the  scene  of  a 
splendid  embarkation  on  the  4th  of  July  of  the  follow- 
ing year  [1758],  when  10,000  provincial  troops,  and 
6  or  7000  regulars  assembled  at  this  place  to  proceed 
against  Ticonderoga.*     1035  boats  were  drawn  up  to 

*  Lord  Howe,  who  accompanied  this  expedition,  wag  a  young  noble- 
man of  amiable  disposiiion  and  the  most  prepossessing  manners,  ami 
was  almost  idoH/rjff  by  thp  army,  as  \v^H  as  (vdniiicd  and  loved  bv  th«j 

-eriTitn-. 


ATTACK  ON   TiCONDEIlOCiA. 


]f>-  ' 
let 


the  shore  one  clear  delightful  summer  morning,  and 
were  speedily  filled  with  this  powerful  army,  except- 
ing only  a  small  body  left  with  the  baggage.  Success 
was  confidently  expected,  and  the  appearance  of  the 
tram  was  more  like  that  of  a  triumphant  return  from 
war.  The  boats  were  decorated  with  gaud}'  streamers, 
and  the  oars  moved  to  martial  music.  The  traveller 
will  follow  their  route  in  the  steamboat,  for  which  see 
below. 

They  landed  at  the  north  end  of  the  lake  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  and  were  ordered  to  march  on  in  four 
columns.  The  obstructions  of  the  forest  however  soon 
broke  their  ranks ;  when  Lord  Howe,  with  his  centre 
column,  falling  in  with  the  enemy's  advance  guard, 
who  were  on  their  retreat  and  bewildered,  was  at- 
tacked with  a  sudden  war  whoop  and  immediately 
killed.  The  provincials  were  accustomed  to  the 
woods,  and  drove  back  their  enemies,  killing  about 
300,  and  taking  148  prisoner?,  and  all  returned  to  the 
landing.  In  the  morning,  Col.  Bradstreet  took  pos- 
session of  the  mill  at  the  great  fails  on  the  river,  and 
the  army  were  soon  brought  up  to  the  French  lines, 
which  were  thrown  up  across  the  isthmus  and  not 
finished.  This  intrenchment  is  still  to  be  seen  in  tole- 
rable preservation.  It  had  two  redoubts  and  a  deep 
abattis,  and  is  said  to  have  been  8  or  9  feet  high, 
though  that  seems  improbable.  The  attack  was 
vigorous,  and  the  defence  obstinate.  The  battle  con- 
tinued four  hours,  during  which  the  English  were  re- 
pulsed three  times.  The  Highland  regiment  distin- 
guished itself,  and  suffered  severely.  The  English 
loss,  in  all,  was  1944,  principally  regulars  ;  the  French 
very  trifling,  although  they  are  said  not  to  have  ima- 
gined the  defe*^-^  possible.  Their  force  is  differently 
stated  from  120u  to  6000.  Notwithstanding  his  supe- 
riority of  force,  Abercrombie  shamefully  ordered  a 
retreat ;  and  thus  terminated  the  operations  of  the 


veor. 


I 


1 1 


! 


It       ' 


lt«)  EXCUttSlOxN   TO   LAKE    GEO^GH, 


Voyage  i>own  Lake  George. 

Leaving  Caldwell,  and  passing  Mr.  Caldwell's  hou^e 
at  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  the  steamboat  passes  Tea  Island, 
Diamond,  Long,  and  other  islands,  particularly  the 
Two  Sisters;  and  then  the  lake  becomes  wider,  and 
the  surface  more  uninterrupted,  the  course  of  the  boat 
being  directly  towards  a  remarkable  eminence,  with  a 
double  summit,  called  Tongue  Mountain,  That  which 
partljT  shuts  it  in  from  this  direction  on  the  right,  is 
Shelving  Rock;  and  Black  Mountain  shows  its  rounded 
summit  beyond  it,  a  little  to  the  right.  This  last  is 
supposed  to  be  about  2200  feet  high,  and  is  considered 
the  highest  mountain  on  the  lake. 

Twelve  Mile  Island  appears  to  be  at  the  foot  of 
Tongue  Mountain,  and  is  seen  just  ahead  for  a  great 
distance  after  leaving  Caldwell.  It  is  of  a  singularly 
rounded  form,  covered  with  trees,  with  the  utmost  re- 
gularity, and  protected  from  the  washing  of  the  waves 
by  a  range  of  large  stones  along  the  shore,  so  well  dis- 
posed as  to  seem  like  a  work  of  art. 

A  rich  and  cultivated  slope  is  seen  on  the  western 
shore,  before  reaching  Tongue  Mountain,  which  be- 
longs to  a  new  township. 

The  Narrows. 

The  lake  is  very  much  contracted  where  it  passes 
between  the  mountains  just  mentioned,  and  their  sur- 
face is  for  several  miles  broken  by  innumerable  islands. 
These  are  of  various  sizes,  but  generally  very  small, 
and  of  little  elevation.  A  few  of  them  are  named,  as 
Green,  Bass,  Lone-tree  islands.  Some  of  them  are 
covered  with  trees,  others  with  shrubs,  some  show 
little  lawns  or  spots  of  grass,  heaps  of  barren  rocks,  or 
gently  sloping  shores;  and  most  of  them  are  orna- 
mented with  graceful  pines,  hemlocks,  and  other  tall 
ttee^,  collected  in  groups,  or  standing  alone,  and  dis- 


E. 

well's  hou^e 

i  Tea  Island, 

icularly  tbe 

wider,  and 

of  the  boat 

snce,  with  a 

That  which 

the  right,  is 

its  rounded 

rhis  last  is 

considered 

the  foot  of 
for  a  great 
a  singularly 
?  utmost  re- 
f  the  waves 
so  well  dis- 

the  western 
which  be- 


e  it  passes 
i  their  sur- 
ble  islands, 
very  small, 
I  named,  as 
f  them  are 
some  show 
;n  rocks,  or 
are  orna- 
1  other  tall 
le,  and  dk- 


^ 


I 


L::^ 


IS 


yorth 


ii 


h: 


; 


^liestei^ 


LAKE   iiEORGiu. 


t  t 


posed  witb  most  charming  variety,  bometimes  an 
island  will  be  ob*'»rved  just  large  enough  to  support 
a  few  fine  trees,  or  perhaps  a  single  one,  while  the 
next  may  appeal*  like  a  solid  mass  of  bushes  and  wild 
flowers ;  near  at  hand,  perhaps,  is  a  third,  with  a  dark 
grove  of  pines,  and  a  decaying  old  trunk  in  front  of  it ; 
and  thus,  through  every  interval  between  the  islands 
as  you  pass  along,  another  and  another  labyrinth  is 
opened  to  view,  among  little  isolated  spots  oi  ground, 
divided  by  narrow  channels,  from  which  it  seems  im- 
possible for  a  person  who  should  have  entered  them, 
ever  to  find  his  wa^  out.  Some  of  the  islands  look 
almost  like  ships  with  their  masts  ;  and  many  have  an 
air  of  lightness  as  if  they  were  sailing  upon  the  lake. 

After  passing  the  Narrows,  the  lake  widens  again^ 
and  the  retrospect  is,  for  several  miles,  through  that 
passage,  with  Tongue  Mountain  on  tbe  west,  and 
Black  Mountain  opposite,  the  Luzerne  range  appearing 
at  a  great  distance  between  them.  The  mountains  in 
view  have  generally  rounded  summits ;  but  the  sides 
are  in  many  places  broken  by  precipitous  ledges. 
They  are  inhabited  by  wolves,  deer,  rattlesnakes,  &c. 

Sabbath  Day  PoinU — This  is  a  low  neck  of  land, 
stretching  into  the  lake  from  the  Western  shore,  and 
containing  the  little  village  of  Hague.  That  on  the 
opposite  shore  is  Putnam. 

On  Sabbath  Day  Point,  Lord  Amherst,  with  his 
numerous  host,  stopped  for  refreshment  upon  the 
morning  of  the  Sabbath,  and  gave  this  beautiful  point 
the  name  by  which  it  is  now  known :  it  is  a  charming 
spot,  and  susceptible  of  the  greatest  embellishment. 

Rogers'  Rock  ain'd  Anthony's  Nose. 

These  are  two  mountains  at  which  the  lake  again 
contracts  itself  to  pass  between  them.  The  shores  of 
the  lake  still  continue  elevated,  and  bat  a  few  culti- 
vated  farms  are  distinguishable  here  and  there.  An- 
Urony's  Nose  presents  a  precipice,  on  the  eastern  shore. 


178 


EXCITU&IOK   TO  LAKE   GEOUhE. 


Mountain 


yet 


as  we  enter  the  strait ;  and  the  firing  of  a  gun  produce.*? 
a  fine  echo.  Rogers*  Rock,  or  Roeers*  Slide  is  a  stiH 
more  formidable  one,  on  the  otherTiand,  a  little  further 

on.    The  last  retrospect  u p  t 

even  from   this  point— Blac 
clearly  to  be  seen. 

Rogers'  Slide  has  its  name  from  Capt.  Refers,  a 
partisan  officer,  who  distinguished  himself  m  the 
French  war  by  his  boldness,  activity,  and  success. 
He  commanded  an  expedition  which  left  Crown  Point 
in  the  year  1756,  against  the  Canadian  frontiers,  and 
cut  off  the  Indian  village  of  St.  Francis,  afterward 
returning,  with  the  severest  hardships,  by  the  way  of 
Connecticut  river.  Tradition  says,  that  he  was,  at 
another  time,  closely  pursued  by  a  party  of  Indians, 
and  forced  to  retreat  to  the  verge  of  this  mountain. 
Finding  no  other  way  to  escape,  he  descended  half 
down  by  the  ravine  which  opens  towards  the  souths 
and  then  by  a  sudden  turn  came  to  the  east  side,, 
where  is  a  precipice  about  two  hundred  feet  high  of 
smooth  rock,  and  nearly  perpendicular,  down  which 
which  he  slipped  upon  his  snow  shoes  to  the  lake, 
escaping  upon  the  ice.  The  water  is  deep  at  the  bot- 
tom, and  fine  trout  are  caught  there  with  a  long  line. 

The  lake  here  assumes  the  appearance  of  a  narrow 
pond  for  three  or  four  miles,  ana  seems  closed  at  both 
ends.  The  ground  is  still  elevated  on  both  sides,  but 
hills  have  succeeded  to  mountains,  and  some  of  these 
are  at  length  overtopped  by  Black  Mountain,  which, 
although  at  such  a  distance,  at  length  makes  its  ap- 
pearance again,  and  continues  in  sight.  The  lake  at 
length  diminishes  to  a  very  narrow  stream,  and  the 
bottom  becomes  gradualljr  covered  with  weeds. 

Lord  Howe^s  Landing  is  just  behind  an  island  of 
three  acres,  on  the  left-hana  at  the  entrance  of  the 
creek.  Here  is  the  spot  where  the  unfortunate  expe- 
dition of  Abercrombie  effected  their  landing,  and  on 
the  island  they  established  their  he  ital,  on  their  way 
to  the  attack  of  Ticonderoga. 


n  produce.? 
e  is  a  stiH 
ittle  further 
I  very  fine^ 
being  yet 

Refers,  a 
elf   m   the 
id  success, 
rown  Point 
)ntiers,  and 
,  afterward 
the  way  of 
he  was,  at 
of  Indians, 
}  mountain. 
;ended  half 
i  the  southr 
I  east  sidcy 
eet  hi^h  of 
own  which 
0  the  lake, 
►  at  the  bot- 

long  line. 
)f  a  narrow 
)sed  at  both 
h  sides,  but 
me  of  these 
tain,  which, 
ikes  its  ap- 
rbe  lake  at 
im,  and  the 
eeds. 

in  island  of 
ance  of  the 
unate  expe- 
ling,  and  on 
•n  their  way 


fll 


y 


s 

g 

N 


h 


TICOIJDEUOGA. 


17?* 


)^. 


3> 


1 

© 


N 


The  steamboat  passes  on  some  distance  beyond  this 
jilacc,  and  lands  her  passengers  on  the  other  side, 
where,  at  her  regular  voyages,  carri  ges  are  found  in 
wailing  to  convey  them  to  Ticonderoga,  three  milec, 
over  a  rough  road. 

Those  who  intend  to  take  a  steamboat  on  Lake 
Champlain,  should  be  careful  to  inquire  the  hour  when 
it  passes,  and  regulate  their  time  accordingly.  Ticon- 
deroga has  become  one  of  the  stopping  places,  which 
will  prove  a  great  convenience  to  the  numerous  tra- 
vellers attracted  to  this  interesting  spot. 

Abercrombie's  army  passed  for  some  part  of  the  way 
along  the  route  we  travel.  Passing  the  Upper  Falls, 
which  are  the  highest,  he  forded  the  creek  above  the 
second.  At  the  Falls  near  the  bridge  which  we  cross, 
just  above  the  sawmills,  was  a  stone  blockhouse ; 
and  there  was  a  redoubt  on  the  north  side  of  the  stream 
near  the  bridge,  where^  as  in  several  other  places, 
there  was  some  ^ghting  to  cany  the  French  outposts. 

At  the  Upper  Falls  are  several  valuable  sawmills 
and  forges,  and  the  scenery  is  highly  picturesque. 

THE  FORTRESS  OF  TICONDEROGA. 

This  famous  old  fortress,  or  rather  its  remains,  are 
distinctly  seen  from  Lake  Champlain,  though,  from  the 
direction  by  which  we  approach  it,  they  are  discovered 
only  at  a  short  distance.  An  elevated  piece  of  land, 
gently  sloping  towards  the  south,  and  ending  abruptly 
over  a  bend  of  the  lake,  appears,  partially  covered  with 
trees,  and  crowned  near  its  extremity  with  a  cluster 
of  broken  walls  and  chimneys.  There  is  a  meadow 
on  the  eastern  side,  running  to  the  base  of  the  ridge, 
and  across  this  is  a  footpath  from  the  ferry  to  the  fort 
by  the  nearest  way.  A  carriage  road  also  leads  from 
the  ferry  to  the  ridge,  and  thence  down  to  the  same 
pJRrf*,  * 


1M<'t 


KOTTTi:  TO   CANADA. 


M 


The  Old  French  Lines, 

where  General  Abercrombie  was  defeated  in  1758,  am 
the  only  part  of  the  fortification  which  was  ever  the 
scene  of  a  battle.  They  commenced  on  the  east  side, 
at  a  battery  of  heavy  cannon  on  the  shore,  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  south  of  the  ferry.  The  remains  of 
tne  breastwork  can  yet  be  seen.  The  lines  were 
drawn  in  a  zig-zag ;  first  stretching  off  to  the  right, 
along  the  side  of  marshy  ground  to  a  cluster  of  busnes 
where  was  a  battery ;  ana  then  to  the  left  to  the  verge 
of  a  wood,  where  was  another. 

Their  course  may  be  distinctly  traced  in  this  man- 
ner, across  the  ridge  of  land  at  its  highest  elevation, 
over  to  the  brow  of  a  steep  bank  looking  towards  the 
outlet  of  Lake  George.  The  ground  is  so  high  on  the 
top  of  this  ridge,  that  it  must  have  been  a  commanding 
position  when  clear  of  trees.  The  woods  that  now  so 
much  interrupt  the  sight,  have  grown  since  the  evacu- 
ation of  the  fortress,  after  the  revolutionary  war. 

There  is  a  fine  spring  of  water  near  the  western 
part  of  the  French  fines,  where  a  bloody  engagement 
occurred  between  two  hostile  parties  during  tne  battle. 
Bodies  of  men  have  been  dug  up  hereabouts  within  a 
few  years,  and  shot  were  formerly  very  frequently 
found  in  old  timber. 

Mount  Hope  is  a  hill  about  a  mile  north  from  this 
place.  It  was  occupied  by  General  Bur^oyne's  British 
line,  which  formed  the  right  wing  on  his  approach  to 
Ticondero^^a,  on  the  2d  of  June,  1777. 

In  proceeding  from  the  French  lines  south  towards 
the  fortress,  by  a  gentle  descent,  the  surface  of  the 
ground  appears  to  have  been  in  some  places  smoothed 
in  former  times  by  the  plough,  and  by  the  removal  and 
cutting  away  of  rocks,  to  render  it  convenient  for  the 
evolutions  of  troops,  and  the  use  of  artillery.  A  close 
observer  will  also  remark  that  he  passes  the  remains 


TIC02k'D£B0GA. 


ilit 


ot  several  distinct  lines  of  small  redoubts,  placed  al 
fiquai  distances,  and  ranged  in  the  form  ot*  a  quincunx. 
These  were  intended  to  embarrass  still  further  the  ap- 
proach to  the  fortress,  which  assumes  the  air  of  a  more 
important  work  as  you  approach  it. 

There  are  two  old  intrenchments,  270  and  150  yards 
from  the  fortress ;  and  then  comes  the  edge  of  the 
outer  ditch  or  counterscarp,  where  there  was  a  row  of 
palisadoes.  Five  steps  more  bring  you  to  the  walled 
side  of  the  ditch,  which  is  still  eight  feet  deep  in  some 
places,  and  therefore  impassable  except  where  it  has 
been  partly  tilled  up.  Its  breadth  is  generally  about 
8  or  9  yards,  and  the  wall  of  the  fortress  on  the  other 
side  in  some  places  20  or  25  feet  high. 

The  fortress  is  of  an  angular  form,  and  embraces  a 
large  tract  of  ground,  being  divided  into  parts  by  deep 
ditches,  which  were  defended  by  cannon  and  musketry, 
and  added  very  much  to  the  security  of  the  place. 
The  communication  between  these  different  parts  was 
kept  up  by  stone  staircases,  placed  in  convenient  po- 
sitions of  the  angles,  all  so  calculated  as  to  make  the 
descent  into  the  ditches  and  the  ascent  circuitous  and 
intricate,  and  open  to  the  cannon  and  small  arms.  A 
glance  at  some  of  those  that  remain  will  show  the  plan. 
The  walls  were  originally  much  higher  than  at  present, 
being  raised  by  superstructures  of  logs  filled  in  with 
earth,  to  such  a  height  as  to  protect  the  barracks. 

The  Barracks  formed  an  oblong,  and  the  walls  still 
remain  of  all  except  those  on  the  eastern  side;  their 
form  is  plainly  distinguishable.  The  parade,  which 
they  include,  appears  to  have  been  formerly  carefully 
smoothed.  This  area  is  about  52^  yards  lon^,  and  8 
in  breadth.  The  barracks,  &c.,  the  walls  of  which 
remain  on  the  north,  south,  and  west  sides,  are  built 
of  the  rough  blue  limestone,  of  which  the  neighbour- 
ing rocks  are  formed,  two  storijs  high ;  and  these, 
with  the  chimneys,  several  of  which  are  standing,  are 
tlie  principal  objects  seen  from  a  distance.  By  the 
s,outhern  entrance,  Ethan  Allep  entered  with  hi?  ^ 


,--*5^^W^- 


f,  i 


^m 


^  h:  -  .. 


\\ 


.. 


H, 


18ii' 


ROVPE    TO  CAi!«ADA. 


raw  soldiers,  when  he  surprised  the  fortress  on  the  I8U1 
May,  1775 ;  and  on  reaching  the  court  yard  and  calling 
on  the  commander  to  surrender,  the  British  ofl&cer, 
Capt.  Deplace,  made  his  appearance  at  a  window  and 
submitted,  delivering  up  3  officers  and  44  rank  and  file. 
In  consequence  of  this  coup  de  main,  this  important 
place  was  in  the  hands  of  the  Americans  until  the 
arrival  of  Burgoyne,  in  1777. 

The  battlements  of  Ticonderoga  first  bore  the  flag 
of  independence.  This  circumstance  should  of  itself 
render  this  ruin,  so  fine  in  other  associations,  interesting 
to  the  traveller. 

At  each  corner  was  a  bastion  or  a  demi-bastion  ;  and 
under  that  in  the  north-eastern  one  is  a  subterranean 
apartment,  the  access  to  which  is  through  a  small 
entrance  near  that  comer  of  the  court  yard.  It  com- 
municates with  two  magazines  at  the  further  end :  that 
on  the  left,  which  is  the  lai^er,  being  19  or  20  feet 
long.  The  room  is  also  arched,  measures  about  35 
feet  in  length,  21  in  breadth,  and  10  or  11  in  height, 
and  like  the  magazines  was  bomb  proof.  The  cellars 
south  of  this,  which  belonged  to  the  demolished  build- 
ings, and  are  almost  filled  up,  have  a  room  or  two  with 
fireplaces  still  distinguishable. 

The  Grenadiers'  Battery. 

This  important  outwork  is  situated  on  a  rocky  point 
towards  the  east  from  the  main  fortress.  They  were 
connected  by  a  covered  way,  the  traces  of  which  are 
distinctly  visible.  It  was  surrounded  by  a  wall  faced 
with  stone,  with  five  sides,  one  of  which  measures 
about  180  feet ;  but  that  towards  the  lake  has  been 
undermined  by  timie,  and  slipped  down  the  bank.  The 
remaining  parts  are  nearly  entire,  and  about  10  feet 
high. 

Still  in  advance  of  the  Grenadiers'  Battery  is  a  small 
work  of  earth,  which  might  have  contained  five  or  six 
guns ;  while  in  fnmt  of  it.  and  on  the  extreme  point» 


K 


MOUNT   DEFIAXCE. 


183 


' 


iwo  or  three  more  guns  appear  lo  have  been  placed 
between  the  rocks,  to  fire  down  upon  the  water,  about 
40  feet  below.  A  little  further  east,  and  under  the 
bank,  is  an  old  stone  house,  formerly  a  store  belonginj^ 
to  the  fort,  and  now  occupied  by  the  tenant  of  J\Ir. 
Pell,  the  proprietor  of  the  whole  peninsula  of  Ticon- 
deroea.  On  a  spot  formerly  occupied  as  the  King^s 
Garden,  Mr.  P.  has  a  fine  garden,  abounding  in  tne 
choicest  fruits  imported  from  Europe,  and  transported 
from  the  celebrated  nurseries  of  Long  Island.  If  it  is 
the  intention  of  the  traveller  to  cross  the  lake,  to  the 
neighbouring  Vermont  shore,  where  are  still  some 
slignt  remains  of  Burgoyne's  intrenchments,  he  will 
be  much  pleused  with  a  walk  across  the  meadows  to 
the  upper  ferry,  a  distance  of  about  three-quarters  of  a 
mile. 

Between  the  Grenadiers^  Battery  and  the  fortress, 
the  shore  retains  traces  of  many  little  terraces,  breast- 
works, and  buildings,  such  as  were  probably  work- 
shops, barracks,  stores,  &c. 

The  great  mountain,  which  rises  dark  and  abruptly 
from  the  opposite  shore,  is 

Mount  Defiance,  about  800  feet  high,  on  the  summit 
of  which  Gen.  Burgoyne's  troops  slwwed  themselves 
on  the  morning  of  July  4th,  1777,  with  a  batteiy  of 
heavy  cannon,  which  they  had  drawn  up  along  the 
ridge  by  night,  and  planted  in  that  commanding  posi- 
tion, whence  they  couKl  count  the  men  in  the  fort. 
The  distance  to  the  summit  in  a  straight  line  is  about 
a  mile,  so  that  the  defence  of  Ticonderoga  would  have 
been  impossi*  !e  ;  and  on  the  firing  of  a  few  shots  by 
the  British  upon  a  vessel  in  the  lake,  which  proved  the 
range  of  their  guns,  the  Americans  made  preparations 
to  evacuate  the  place,  and  effected  their  retreat  to  the 
opposite  shore  during  the  night. 

The  ascent  of  Mount  Defiance  is  laborious,  but  the 
view  is  extremely  fine  from  its  summit.  There  are  the 
remains  of  Burgoyne's  battery,  with  holes  drilled  in  the 
vncks  for  blasting:,  and  the  marks  of  a  larsre  hlockhmise* 


104 


KOi:fTE   TO  CANADA. 


I^i 


Mount  Independence  is  a  hill  of  comparatively  small 
elevation  east  of  Mount  Defiance,  and  separated  from 
it  by  the  lake,  which  has  here  reduced  its  size  to  that 
of  a  small  river.  On  a  bank,  just  above  the  vtrater, 
are  the  remains  of  a  zig-zag:  battery  for  about  40  or 
50  guns,  running  across  a  little  cornfield  behind  a 
house,  and  making  five  or  six  angles.  The  Horse- 
shoe Battery  is  traceable  on  an  elevation  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  in  the  rear.  A  bridge  once  connected 
Ticonderoga  with  Mount  Defiance,  the  buttresses  of 
which  are  remaining,  to  the  great  annoyance  of  the 
navigators  of  the  lake ;  the  steamboat  passes  to  the 
«)utn  of  them.  On  the  west  shore  (near  the  stone 
storehouse),  Arnold,  when  pursued  by  the  British^ 
caused  his  flotilla  to  be  run  on  shore.  These  hulk»^ 
remain  almost  as  sound  as  when  first  stranded.  A 
forty-two  pounder  is  said  to  have  ranged  fn^n  the 
Horseshoe  over  this  channel  (now  marked  by  a 
buoy)  and  the  fortress. 

After  the  Rev(jlutionary  war  abou'i  500  cannon  were 
lying  about  the  fortress,  lines,  &c.  many  of  them  as 
left  by  the  English  with  their  trunnions  knocked  off. 

The  mountainous  region  on  the  west  side  of  the 
lake  abounds  with  deer,  and  considerable  numbers  are 
killed  every  season. 

The  Passage  from  Ticondeboga  down  Laki: 

Champlain 

is  very  pleasant,  abounding,  the  greater  part  of  the 
way  to  Canada,  with  fine  natural  scepes. 

The  improvements  produced  in  the  country  en^ 
closing  Lake  Champlain,  by  the  establishment  of 
steamboats  and  the  opening  of  the  Northern  Canal, 
have  been  very  great.  The  produce  formerly  sent 
southward  was  necessarily  subject  to  he-.vy  expenses 
of  transportation ;  while  the  merchandise  brought  in 
return  was  liable  to  delay,  uncertainty,  injuries  by  land 
carrfage,  and  exposure  to  the  weather  and  to  pilfereTS. 


chi 
So 

18 


LAKE   CHAMPLAIX. 


185 


which  are  obviated,  and  these  circumstances,  it  is  well 
known,  produce  powerful  effects.  The  towns  on  the 
lake,  five  or  six  years  ago,  were  ill  supplied  with  mer- 
chandise, which  is  nowTound  in  abunaance  and  cheap. 
Some  of  them  have  more  than  doubled  their  size  since 
lli22,  and  numerous  villages  have  sprung  up  into  acti- 
vity and  thrift  from  almost  nothing.  New  roads  have 
also  been  made  into  the  interior,  and  mills  have  been 
erected  on  the  tributaiy  streams  for  cutting  up  the  sup- 
plies of  valuable  timber  in  the  forests.  In  the  two 
townships  of  Crown  Point  and  Moriah,  there  are  abou^. 
60  lumber  mills,  which  will  be  able  to  furnbh  a  million 
of  pieces  of  timber.  They  contain  also  vast  beds  of 
iron  ore,  for  which  forges  and  furnaces  have  been 
erected.  The  iron  region  lies  between  the  lake  and 
the  north-eastern  branch  of  the  Hudson,  which  heads 
6  miles  west  of  it. 

At  Swanton,  Vt.,  are  quarries  of  dove-coloured  and 
black  marble,  where  300  saws  a)?e  kept  at  work.  It 
is  carried  to  New- York  in  considerable  (Quantities. 

Great  numbers  of  small  schooners  navigate  the  wa- 
ters of  Lake  Champlain,  and  within  a  few  years  nu- 
merous canal  boats,  some  of  them  fitted  with  masts 
for  schooners  for  sailing.  Annesley^s  mode  of  building 
vessels  has  lately  been  adopted  here  to  some  extent, 
in  which  timbers  are  discarded,  and  hulls  formed  of 
inch  boards  running  in  several  thicknesses,  and  in  cross 
directions. 

Only  about  20  vessels  sailed  on  this  lake  before  the 
canal  was  opened  to  the  Hudson.  In  1827  there  were 
218  owned  m  the  limits  of  the  United  States,  with  an 
amount  of  tonnage  of  about  12,000.  Lake  vessels  and 
boats  were  employed  on  the  canal  every  year  to  the 
number  of  about  375. 

Five  Mile  Point  was  the  landing  place  of  Gen.  Bur- 
goyne's  expedition,  as  already  mentioned.  Mountains 
appear  in  the  west  and  north-west,  with  occasional 
intervals  all  the  way  up  to  Crown  Point  ;  while  in  the 
north  i«  n  lofty  and  impofsjng  range,  with  two  or  three 


18G 


KOiJTE   to  C"A\A1>A. 


i;  •  il 


^eaks  almost  bald  from  the  height  of  theii  elevation, 
bummits  multiply  as  we  proceed,  and  distant  moun< 
tains  arise  also  m  the  north-east ;  while  Mount  Defiance 
and  other  eminences  towards  the  south  bound  the  view 
in  that  direction.  There  are  scattering  farms  and 
bouses  on  both  shores. 

There  are  many  fish  caught  in  some  parts  of  the  lake. 
The  shores  are  in  this  part  strewed  with  the  fragments 
of  blue  limestone  rock  with  organic  remains.  The 
immediate  shores  are  generally  low  all  the  way  to 
Crown  Point,  where  the  lake  suddenly  turns  to  the 
west  at  a  right  angle,  and  at  the  distance  of  a  mile  as 
suddenly  to  the  north  again.  A  low  stretch  of  land, 
covered  with  a  young  forest  on  the  left,  conceals  the 
approach  to  this  ancient  fortress,  which,  for  position 
as  well  as  appearance  and  history,  may  be  called  the 
twin  sister  of  Ticonderoga. 

Chimney  Point,  where  the  steamboat  often  receives 
and  lands  passengers,  is  on  the  north  side  of  the  lake^ 
with  a  large  public  house  in  a  pleasant  situation ;  and 
here  is  the  place  to  stop,  if  the  traveller  intends  to 
visit  Crown  Point,  which  is  opposite,  across  a  ferry  | 
of  a  mile. 

A  ferry  boat  will  take  the  traveller  over  to  Crown 
Point  at  any  hour,  but  the  steamboat  proceeds  imme- 
diately. 

The  Fortress  op  Crown  Point. 

There  are  several  old  works  thrown  up  along  the 
shore,  with  little  bays  between  them.  The  eastern- 
most is  called  the  Grenadiers'  Battery,  the  middle  one 
is  the  original  old  French  fort  of  1731,  and  now  encloses 
a  garden  :  and  that  further  west  is  an  outwork  to  a 
bastion  of  the  fortress. 

The  fortress  is  situated  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
back  from  the  shore,  and  appears  much  like  Ticonde- 
roga from  a  distance,  showing  the  walls  and  chimneys, 
of  the  old  barracks,  and  vvulls  of  earth  .currnnndiru« 


c'i;o%v\\  poiAT. 


Ib7 


liieni.  Id  regard  to  its  plan,  howevei',  it  id  materially 
different.  The  fortress  of  Crown  Point  was  a  stai* 
work)  being  in  the  form  of  a  pentagon,  with  bastions 
at  the  angles,  and  a  strong  redoubt  at  the  distance  of 
250  or  300  yards  in  advance  .of  each  of  thorn.  The 
fortress  is  surrounded  by  a  ditch  walled  in  with  stone, 
except  where  it  has  been  blasted  into  the  solid  rock 
of  blue  limestone,  (as  is  the  case  in  many  parts,  from 
five  to  twenty -five  feet,)  and  even  into  the  quartz  rock 
which  underlays  it.  Univalve  shells  are  found  in  the 
limestone  rock,  frequently  four  inches  in  diameter. 
The  walls  are  about  20  or  25  feet  high,  and  there  is  u 
convenient  path  runni.ig  entirely  rour^  pon  the  top, 
interrupted  only  by  the  gates  at  the  r  /  'h  and  south 
sides.  Although  much  shaded  by  tall  sumacs, 
some  fine  views  are  enjoyed  in  making  the  circuit, 
which  is  not  far  short  of  half  a  mile.  It  was  built 
in  1756. 

Opposite  the  north  gate  is  a  small  ledge  of  rocks  ; 
and  close  by,  the  remains  of  a  covered  or  subterraneous 
way  to  the  lake  shore.  On  entering  the  fortress,  the 
stranger  finds  himself  in  a  level,  spacious  area,  bounded 
on  the  left,  and  in  front,  by  long  ruinous  buildings  of 
stone,  two  stories  high,andithe  first  220  feet  long,  while 
the  ruins  of  similar  ones  are  seen  on  two  sides  on  the 
right.  This  parade  is  about  500  feet  in  length.  The 
place  was  surprised  by  Col.  Warner  in  1775. 

The  view  from  the  walls  towards  the  north  is  very 
fine  :  looking  down  the  lake,  which  widens  at  the 
distance  of  two  or  three  miles,  you  have  Chimney 
Point  on  the  right,  and  two  other  Points  projecting 
beyond  the  distant  peak,  called  Ca^neVs  Hwnv.  A 
range  of  mountains  on  the  western  shore,  beginning  at 
the  distance  of  18  miles,  including  Bald  Peak,  gra- 
dually approach  till  they  form  a  near  and  bold  boundary 
to  the  lake  on  the  left,  scattered  with  cleared  farms 
and  houses,  and  then  stretching  away  to  the  south, 
terminate  ip  the  mountains  behind.  This  elevation, 
although  it  seems  ajmost  as  well  calculated  to  com- 


188 


KdUI'E   TO   CANAii.l. 


I    i 


mand  Crown  Point  as  Mount  Defiance  doe^  'liconde' 
ro^a,  is  not  less  tl>an  four  miles  distant. 

Every  thing  about  tbis  old  fortress  bears  the  marks 
of  ruin.  Two  magazines  were  blown  up  ;  the  timbers 
in  the  south  barracks  are  burnt  black  ;  a  portion  of  the 
shingled  roof  which  remains  serves  to  cover  a  little 
hay  mow  and  the  nests  of  robins ;  vrhile  mme  of  the 
entrances  and  other  parts  are  fenced  up  for  a  sheep 
UAd,  The  ground  around  it  is  much  covered  witn 
fragments  of  blasted  rocks,  and,  particularly  at  the 
south,  with  the  ruins  of  old  buildings.  The  trees  which 
are  seen  have  grown  since  the  evacuation  of  the  place  ; 
and  on  one  of  the  angles  is  an  inscription  of  the  date 
of  the  fortress. 

In  1776,  the  British  had  a  fleet  on  Lake  Champlain^ 
composed  of  the  following  vessels  :  ship  Inflexible, 
Capt.  Pringle,  carrying  18  twelve-pounders  ;  two 
schooners,  one  with  14,  the  other  with  12  six-pounders ; 
a  flat^^ottomed  radeau  with  6  twenty-fours  and  6 
twelves ;  and  20  small  craft,  each  carrying  a  gun  from 
nine  to  twenty-four  pounders,  and  several  long-boats, 
besides  boats  for  baggage  stores,  &.c. 

The  Americans  had  only  2  brigs,  I  corvette,  1  sloop, 
3  galjeys,  and  8  gondolas,  the  largest  vessel  carrying 
only  12  six  and  four-pounders.  These  were  under  the 
command  of  x\rno!d,  who  drew  them  up  between  the 
island  of  Valincourt  and  the  western  shore,  where  they 
were  attacked.  They  fought  four  hours,  and  the 
British  at  last  retreated ;  but  while  making  his  way 
towards  Crown  Point,  Arnold  was  overtaken,  and 
nearly  all  the  squadron  fled  up  tlie  lake,  passing  this 
place  which  was  evacuated.  Arnold  remained  fighting 
as  long  as  possible,  and  did  not  leave  his  vessel  until 
she  h^d  taken  fire. 

On  making  a  signal  at  the  ferry  to  the  steamboat, 
she  will  stop  and  send  for  a  passenger.  Proceeding 
down  the  lake,  the  breadth  of  it  soon  increases,  and  at 
the  two  islands  on  the  right  it  is  about  1^  miles  acros?^. 
A  little  further  is 


LAKE    tJll^UiriiAl.N. 


189 


Put'ia-Bayf  on  the  eastern  shore,  witii  an  island  ot 
the  same  name.  A  little  north  of  this  is  a  small  island 
on  the  right,  with  three  bushes  on  it,  which  has  hence 
obtained  the  name  of  the  Scotch  Bonnet,  Looking: 
south  the  lake  presents  a  fine  expanse,  extending  almost 
to  Crown  Point,  with  Bald  Peak  conspicuous  on  the 
right. 

Basin  Harbour  is  a  stopping  place.  It  is  very 
small,  with  room  for  only  3  or  4  vessels.  At  a  great 
distance  in  the  N.  E.  is  seen  the  Camel's  Hump  :  fur- 
ther north  a  high  mountain  in  Halifax,  Vt. 

Sloop  Island,  17  miles  from  Burlington,  is  low  in  the 
middle,  and  contains  several  trees,  which  look  not 
unlike  masts.  It  was  mistaken  for  a  sloop  in  a  misty 
day,  in  the  Revolutionary  or  French  war,  and  fired 
upon  by  a  vessel,  whence  its  name. 

At  Hartford  the  lake  suddenly  opens  to  the  breadth 
of  several  miles,  and  a  new  scene  is  presented  to  view. 
On  the  west  side  is  a  rounded  island  covered  with  pine 
trees,  like  much  of  the  shore  previously  seen,  and 
separated  from  the  mainland  only  by  a  narrow  rent 
of  about  fifteen  feet.  Apparently  just  within  this 
aperture  is  a  rude  arch  of  rock,  like  the  remains  of  an 
ancient  bridge.  A  beautiful  bay  makes  up  behind  the 
island,  of  which  a  glimpse  is  caught  in  passing ;  and  a 
little  further  north  it  opens  beautifully  to  view,  with  a 
smooth  declining  shore  cultivated  for  several  miles  ; 
while  a  blue  range  of  the  Alleghanies  rises  behind 
them,  like  the  Catskill  Mountains  seen  from  the  city 
of  Hudson. 

On  the  eastern  side,  the  Green  Mountains  tower  at  a 
distance  over  the  wild,  uncultivated  shore,  till  a  cluster 
of  white  buildings  is  discovered  formin?  the  little  vil- 
lage of  Charlotte  or  McNeil's  Ferry,  which  is  backed 
by  a  few  fields  and  orchards.    Further  north  the  shores 

are  rocky,  and  rise  abruptly  from  the  water, 

H 


It^O 


KOIJTE  TO  c;a.n.\I)a. 


i- 


BUKLINGTON, 

75  miles  from  Whitehall, 

This  is  the  largest  town  on  Lake  Champlain,  and  is 
.situated  in  a  commanding  as  well  as  a  delightful  po- 
sition. The  lake  suddenly  widens  as  you  approach  it 
from  the  south,  and  a  fine  semicircular  bay  puts  up  to 
it  from  the  west,  surrounded  by  a  crescent  of  high 
ground,  under  the  shelter  of  which  the  town  is  situated. 
The  view  from  the  top  of  the  hills  is  truly  admirable  ; 
embracino^  in  the  foreground  the  elegant  gardens  of 
some  of  the  wealthier  inhabitants,  with  the  streets  of 
Burlington  below,  the  curving  form  of  the  bay,  the 
whole  breadth  of  the  lake,  here  ten  miles  across,  and 
a  noble  chain  of  distant  blue  mountains  on  the  opposite 
side.  The  college  has  been  rebuilt.  The  road  to 
Windsor  by  the  Gulf  is  very  good  and  interesting. 

The  road  to  Montreal  passes  Swanton,  St.  Alban^s^ 
&c.  The  lake  is  occasionally  in  sight ;  and  for  a  dis- 
tance of  six  miles,  round  the  head  of  Missiscoui  Bay» 
the  road  runs  along  the  shore.  At  that  place  vast 
quantities  of  lumber  are  annually  collected. 

There  has  lately  been  established  here  aglass-house, 
on  a  laige  scale. 

Port  Kent,  10  miles, 

is  a  small  village  on  the  western  shore,  16  miles  from 
Burlington.  It  was  begun  to  be  built  in  1824,  to  serve 
as  a  port  to  the  iron  works  established  a  little  back  in 
the  country,  where  there  is  a  vast  quantity  of  ore. 
About  2000  tons  of  iron  ore  are  annually  niade  at  Essex 
and  Clinton  ;  and  5000  or  6000  tons  might  be  furnished. 
It  contains  two  large  stores,  a  wharf,  &c. 
/  A  railway  has  been  contemplated  from  this  place  to 
Clintonville  on  the  Sable  river,  where  are  extensive 
Tnines  of  iron.    The  land  \z  favourable,  and  the  whole 


t 


lain,  and  is 
ightful  po- 
ipproach  it 
puts  up  to 
nt  of  nigh 
is  situated, 
idmirable ; 
gardens  of 
B  streets  of 
e  bay, the 
across,  and 
le  opposite 
he  road  to 
esting. 
it.  Alban's^ 
i  for  a  dis- 
scoui  Bay,^ 
place  vast 

• 

lass-house, 


miles  from 
14,  to  serve 
tie  back  in 
ity  of  ore. 
ie  at  Essex 
i  furnished. 


lis  place  to 
extensive 

,  the  whole 


BeoJtfr 


BA'I TLli    OF    I'LAriVSHUKt.II 


1^1 


'work,  15  inilos,  would  prol)al)ly  cost  only  $4r»,000.  In 
1827,  not  loss  than  $*2(),00()  were  paid  Tor  iLe  trans- 
portation of  the  article  to  Lake  Cham  jluin. 

The  openinj?  of  (he  state  road,  already  authorized 
by  the  Legislature,  from  the  Lake  to  Hopkinton,  St. 
Lawrence  Co.  will  introduce  s^reat  activity  into  that 
district.  Inexhaustible  beds  of  iron  ore  will  be  wroiii»ht 
near  this  route. 

PLATTSBURGH,  8  miles. 

This  is  a  town  of  considerable  importance,  situated 
on  the  banks  of  a  small  river  called  the  Saranac,  and 
just  behind  the  hi^^h  and  steep  bank  of  the  lake,  on 
which  is  a  line  of  forts  erected  for  the  defence  of  the 
place.  The  town  commands  a  fine  \  iew.  There  are 
some  remarkable  Waterfalls  on  the  Saranac. 

Plattsburgh  was  the  scene  of  a  land  and  naval  battle 
during  the  late  war  with  Great  Britain. 

The  Battle  op  Plattsburgh. 

While  Gen.  Macomb  was  stationed  at  Plattsbui^h, 
Sir  George  Prevost  came  from  Canada  with  an  army, 
and  occupying  the  village,  stood  ready  to  attack  the 
American  troops,  who  were  in  position  on  the  elevated 
ground,  between  the  east  bank  of  the  Saranac  and  the 
precipitous  shore  of  the  lake,  where  a  number  of  forts, 
he.  are  still  to  be  seen.  Com.  M*Donough  was  at  that 
time  on  the  lake  with  the  American  squadron  ;  and 
hearing  of  the  approach  of  Capt.  Downie  with  the 
British  ships,  extended  his  line  between  Hospital 
Island  and  Cumberland  Ht.ad,  where  he  received  and 
fought  the  enemy,  with  such  success  as  to  capture  all 
his  vessels.  The  action  continued  2  hours  and  20 
minutes,  and  was  performed  in  full  sight  of  the  armies. 
Capt.  Downie's  ship,  tho  Confiance,  had  105  shot  in 
her  hull,  and  the  Saratoga  59,  and  was  twice  on  fire. 
This  battle  caused  the  retreat  of  Prevost,  and  relieved 
that  pr»rf  of  the  country  from  beinsr  overnin, 


192 


ROUTE  TO   ('A^IADA. 


!     1 


MDoHouglCs  Farm  lies  on  that  part  of  Cumberlanii 
Head  which  is  opposite  the  scene  of  his  battle,  and 
consists  of  200  acres.  It  was  presented  to  him  by  tho 
!e8:islature  of  Vermont,*  in  gratitude  for  his  victors-. 

CHAZY,  15  miles. 
Rouse's  Point,  12  miles. 

There  is  a  village  by  this  name,  on  the  western  side : 
and  a  mile  beyond  it, 

The  Forty  which  is  a  kind  of  laige  castle,  built  of 
hewn  stone,  with  perpendicular  walls,  and  three  tiers 
of  embrasures.  It  stands  at  the  end  of  a  low  point, 
and  was  built  to  command  the  passage  of  the  lake 
during  the  last  war.  On  running  the  line  of  the  United 
States  and  Canada,  the  commissioners  at  first  fixed  the 
boundary  a  little  south  of  this  place,  so  as  to  bring  the 
fort  v/ithin  the  limits  of  the  latter ;  but  in  consequence 
of  the  line  agreed  on  by  the  treaty  coming  too  near 
Quebec,  it  was  determined  that  an  arrangement  should 
be  made  for  the  benefit  of  both  parties  ;  and  the 
boundary  has  been  left  in  its  former  place.  An  opening 
through  the  woods,  like  a  road,  marks  the  place,  about 
half  a  mile  north  of  the  fort. 

A  committee  of  Congress  has  proposed  to  the  United 
States,  to  purchase  land  here,  and  open  a  canal  to  St. 
Regis,  on  tne  St.  Lawrence.  The  lowest  summit  level 
on  American  ground,  would  be  960  feet  above  Lake 
Champjain. 

The  country  hereabouts  is  very  uninteresting :  for 

*  St.  JilbatCs.  At  St.  Alban's,  in  Vermont,  an  extensive  *'  slide,"  or 
avalanclie,  occurred  on  the  4th  of  July,  1827,  of  almost  iinprecf  dented 
extent.  It  began  on  the  north-west  siile  of  Mansfield  Mountain  near  tho 
top,  which  is  4,279  feet  above  tide  water.  It  was  from  20  to  .'JO  yards  in 
breadth,  and  moved  down  3  miles,  although  the  greater  part  of  the  siir 
face  was  gradually  sloping,  with  the  exception  of  a  precipice  of  near 
100  feet. 

The  top  of  the  monntain  (the  highest  in  the  state)  overlooks  a  part  ot 
(?nnada,  New-York  and  New-Hampshirp.  fo  the  Whitr-  Mmnitnitis. 


.ST.  .TDIIN^S. 


193 


tlic  Unel  rnuntry  has  begun  which  extends  f;ir  into 
Canada.  The  appearance  of  the  banks  is  quite  uni- 
form ;  they  beini!^  low,  and  in  many  places  almost 
ovcrnown  by  the  waters  of  the  lake. 

Isle  aux  Noix,  1 1  miles. 

This  is  the  English  frontier  post,  and  has  been  chosen 
with  judo^ment ;  as  although  the  ground  is  of  hardly 
any  elevation,  it  is  higher  than  any  in  the  neighbour- 
hood ;  and  the  island  is  so  situated  as  partly  to  occupy 
the  channel,  and  entirely  to  command  it. 

There  is  a  long  wall  and  battery  on  the  south  side, 
with  angle?  ;  beyond  which  are  seen  a  large  stone 
building,  and  the  roofs  of  others  on  the  left  and  right 
of  it,  forming  the  storehouses,  &c.  of  the  post.  The 
channel  is  on  the  east  side,  and  very  narrow,  faced  for 
a  considerable  distaice  by  another  battery.  Sentries 
are  posted  in  different  places.  The  ship-yard  suc- 
ceeds, and  the  officers'  quarters,  generally  neat,  one- 
story  buildings,  with  little  p^ardens  tastefully  laid  out. 
Here  is  a  landing-place  in  the  Chinese  style.  A  large 
stockaded  building,  which  is  the  hospital,  succeeos, 
with  a  large  arch  raised  on  the  shore,  bearing  the 
royal  crown.  The  little  cabins  are  the  soldiers*  quar- 
ters, and  some  of  them  are  neat,  and  ornamented  with 
flowers. 

The  expedition  against  Canada,  in  1775,  consisted 
of  two  divisions :  one  of  3000  New-England  and  New- 
York  soldier  %  under  Generals  Schuyler  and  Montgo- 
mery, proceeded  down  Lake  Champlain  in  rafts,  from 
Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point,  and  took  position  at 
Isle  aux  Noix.  The  other,  which  was  planned  and 
despatched  subsequently,  consisted  of  a  large  body, 
under  Gen,  Arnold,  ana  proceeded  through  the  wil- 
derness, in  the  District  of  Maine,  for  Quebec.  The 
former  division,  after  a  little  delay,  proceeded  to  St. 
John's.    They  afterward  formed  at  this  place  a  che^ 

vanx-de-frieze  in  the  river. 

R  • 


I! 
I 


I':'  i 


i94 


ROUTE  Td   CAiSAliA. 


Beyond,  the  shores  continue  low  and  uninterestir^;. 
with  numerous  cabins  of  settlers  near  the  water,  the 
forest  encroaching  to  within  a  short  distance  behind. 

St.  John's,   10  miles. 

Here  thr  steamboat  stops,  at  the  head  of  the  rapids* 
and  at  the  end  of  navigation.  Stage  coaches  are  some- 
times kept  in  readiness  to  take  the  passengers  directly 
on  their  way  to  Montreal  (16  miles  by  land,  and  9 
by  water,  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  in  a  steamboat).  But 
the  arrangements  are  sometimes  different,  ana  it  has 
even  been  the  custom  often  to  spend  a  night  in  this 
place,  rhe  stage  house,  on  the  left-hand,  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  up  the  main  street,  is  in  some  re- 
spects an  excellent  house. 

The  village  presents  nothing  worthy  of  particular 
attention,  except  as  the  scene  of  some  military  deeds, 
connected  with  the  expedition  of  Gen.  Montgomery 
against  this  country.  While  the  continental  troops 
were  stationed  at  Isle  aux  Noix,  in  1775,  Generals 
Mont^on  ery  and  Schuyler  invested  the  fort,  which 
contamed  a  garrison  of  5  or  600  troops,  besides  200 
Canadians,  and  was  commanded  by  Major  Preston. 
The  siege  lasted  6  w  ;eks,  and  they  did  not  capitulate 
till  some  time  after  the  surrender  of  Chambly,  nor  till 
the  Americans  had  brought  their  trenches  to  the  walls 
of  the  fort.  They  then  obtained  possession  of  17 
brass  pieces,  22  iron,  7  mortars,  with  balls,  bombs, 
&c.  &c. 

The  Canadian  money  is  different  from  that  of  the 
United  States ;  but  in  consequence  of  the  continual 
intercourse,  the  latter  passes  currently.  Nine  sous  or 
coppers,  (which  are  of  various  and  sometimes  curious 
stamps,)  equal  six  cents.  2  sous  nearly  Ic^.  and  20 
cents  a  shilling. 

The  pleasantest  road  from  St.  John's  to  Montreal,  is 
by  Chambly,  and  Longueil,  (for  which,  see  Index.) 

Leaving  St.  John's  lor  Montreal,  by  Laprairie,  (the 


uninteresting, 
he  water,  the 
mce  behind. 


of  the  rapids* 
:hes  are  some- 
ngers  directly 
^  land,  and  9 
mboat).  But 
nt,  and  it  has 

ni^ht  in  this 
and,  about  a 
3  in  some  re- 

of  particular 
lilitary  deeds, 

Montgomery 
nental  troops 
75,  Generals 
i  fort,  which 
3,  besides  200 
ajor  Preston, 
lot  capitulate 
mbly,  nor  till 
3  to  the  walls 
session  of  17 
balls,  bombs, 

n  that  of  the 
the  continual 
Nine  sous  or 
times  curious 
r  Id.  and  20 

0  Montreal,  is 
see  Index.) 
aprairie,  (the 


V 


■n 


iOWJSK   VASAVA. 


196 


stage  route,)  the  road  passes  about  a  mile  along  the 
western  shore  of  the  River  Richelieu^  which  some- 
times takes  the  names  of  St.  John's  and  Sorel,  in  con- 
sequence of  its  running  by  those  towns.  Several 
mountains  are  in  sight,  as  Beloeil,  Boucherville,  &c. 

The  Rapids  may  be  regarded  as  a  specimen,  on  a 
small  scale,  of  the  numerous  rapids  in  the  St.  Law- 
rence, which  will  hereafter  excite  the  interest,  if  not 
tlie  apprehension,  of  the  stranger.  The  bed  of  the  Ri- 
chelieu has  a  rapid  descent  in  several  places,  where  it 
comes  immp^J'ately  under  observation,  and  becomes  so 
shallow  as  to  be  passable  for  the  flattest  boats  only 
during  the  floods.  In  the  summer  it  is  generally  only 
a  few  inches  deep,  and  the  surface  broken  by  nu- 
merous stones  of  all  sizes,  and  here  and  there  by  little 
waterfalls  near  the  shore.  At  the  same  time  the 
banks  are  low  and  flat ;  the  houses  of  one  floor,  white- 
washed, and  built  at  nearly  equal  distances,  facing  the 
river ;  and,  in  short,  the  general  character  of  a  scene 
on  the  St.  Lawrence,  may  be  imagined  from  a  view 
here,  by  making  allowance  for  its  size  and  fertility. 

It  has  been  proposed  to  make  a  canal  to  the  St. 
Lawrence  ;  but  it  is  said  that  the  channel  of  the  St. 
John's  might  be  improved,  by  stone  walls  to  confine 
the  water  over  these  rapids.  The  Chambly  rapids 
mi^ht  be  passed  by  a  short  canal ;  and  the  only  re- 
maming  obstructions  till  those  at  the  mouth  are  at  St. 
Therese  and  Mille  Roches. 

The  inhabitants  along  the  road  present  the  aspect  of 
foreigners,  in  dress,  countenance,  manners,  customs, 
and  language.  Their  fashions  are  antique,  and  many 
of  them  have  not  been  changed  for  ages :  the  men 
wear  the  Canadian  jacket,  capv  or  hat,  red  sash,  and 
moccasin  of  roueh  feather.  The  women  work  labo- 
riously in  the  field,  and  all  of  them  speak  French,  ge- 
nerally without  knowing  a  word  ot  any  other  lan- 
g:uage.  The  farms  will  oe  observed,  laid  out  in  strips 
of  1  or  200  acres,  flat,  broad,  and  1,  2,  or  even  3  miles 
•n  lenarth :  and  the  system  of  fRrmins:  is  extremely  bad. 


l^G 


KOUTE    TO   CANADA. 


as  will  be  discovered  at  once,  by  the  acres  that  aio 
consigned  to  the  useless  and  destructive  little  Canada 
Thistle.  There  is  no  such  thing  known  here  as  the 
doctrine  of  a  rotation  of  crops,  and  land  is  recovered 
to  fertility  by  lying  fallow,  except  that  lately  the  use 
of  manure  has  begun  to  be  resorted  to  in  a  small  de- 
gree, rhe  horses  are  of  a  small  breed,  well  known 
in  the  northern  states  by  the  name  of  the  countrj'. 
They  are  small  and  slow,  but  powe  *iil  and  hardy. 
Many  of  them  are  driven  across  the  line,  and  large 
horses  introduced  into  the  towns  in  return.  The 
value  of  a  common  Canadian  horse  is  about  $40 ;  and 
of  a  good  one,  jj60.  Thf»  land  titles  are  extremely 
doubtful :  no  register  being  kept,  and  no  security 
being  provided  by  means  of  which  the  legal  propriety 
may  be  certainly  ascertained.  The  Legislature,  how- 
ever, have  had  this  subject  before  them. 

Th<^re  is  very  little  to  be  seen  on  this  road  to  inte- 
rest the  traveller,  except  the  novelty  of  what  he  ob- 
serves. There  is  little  encouragement  to  settlers,  12 
per  cent,  is  payable  to  the  Seigneur,  ou  sales  of  real 
estate,  besides  other  heavy  taxes  of  diflferent  descrip- 
tions. The  landscape  is  unvarying  :  the  inhabitants, 
as  well  as  the  soil,  are  poor  ;  and  there  is  nothing  that 
deserves  the  name  of  a  village.  As  appears  from  tes- 
timony received  by  a  Committee  of  the  British  House 
of  Commons  not  lon^  since,  in  many  cases  land  of  ex- 
actly the  same  description  is  worth  from  10  to  15  shil- 
lings an  acre  on  the  Vermont  and  New-York  side  ot 
the  line,  and  only  1  shilling  on  the  Canada  side.  We 
pass  a  house  now  and  then,  dignified  by  a  taJl  pole  or 
mast  raised  in  front  of  it,  which  is  a  singular  mark  ot 
distinction  conceded  to  officers  of  militia,  and  usually 
adopted  by  those  of  the  lowest  grades. 

The  people  appear  very  happy,  and  have  healthy 
countenances,  inclining  to  round  races  and  thick  lips. 
Many  of  them  show  the  upper  front  teeth  when  silent ; 
and  their  aspect,  although  oftentimes  shrewd,  denotes 
a  want  of  ediication.  wnich  is  the  real  raii«e  nf  thr 


LAPRAIRIE. 


{^ 


backward  condition  of  society  in  Canada,  They  arc 
all  Catholics ;  and  the  churches  seen  here  and  there 
upon  the  road,  are  devoted  to  the  service  of  the 
Romish  church.  One  large  church,  lately  built  of  gray 
stone,  will  be  seen  on  the  south  side  of  the  road. 

It  has  been  suggested  that  a  railroad  might  be  ad- 
vantageously constructed  from  St.  John's  to  Laprairie. 

The  Half- Way  House 

is  dirty  and  disagreeable ;  but  the  inhabitants  under- 
stand English,  and  it  is  generally  stopped  at  only  a  few 
minutei.  The  land  is  divided  in  some  places  by 
ditches  round  the  farms ;  and  there  are  the  channels  of 
several  small  streams  which  cross  the  road.  One 
of  these  is  passed  on  a  bridge,  just  east  of  the  stop- 
ping place. 

About  half  a  mile  beyond,  are  some  barracks  built 
for  troops,  during  the  late  war.  One  of  the  most  sin- 
gular traits  in  the  domestic  arrangements  of  the  Cana- 
dians, is  building  the  oven  not  only  out  of  doors,  like 
the  Dutch,  but  directly  over  the  pig  sty. 

The  mountain  from  which  the  city  of  Montreal  de- 
rived its  name,  and  which  rises  immediately  behind 
it,  may  be  discovered  at  a  great  distance  ;  and  the 
house  of  Mr.  M*Tavish  may  be  perceived,  like  a 
white  spot,  a  little  distance  up  its  side. 

Some  time  before  reaching  the  river,  you  pass  an 
extensive  common,  lying  on  the  south  side  of  the  road, 
and  then  the  town  of 

Laprairie. 

This  is  a  lai'ge  town,  from  which  the  steamboats 
Montreal  and  Edmund  Henry  cross  several  times  u 
day,  to  Montreal,  9  miles.  The  place  is  built  after 
the  Canadian  fashion ;  and  very  few  of  the  inhabit- 
ants speak  English.  The  streets  are  narrow,  the 
ho»i«Ps  low.  and  nothins:  i^  to  be  f^pPD  worthy  of  par* 


198 


BIVER    ST.    LAWKE^CJi:. 


\i  H 


P 


ticular  notice,  exceptino:  a  nunnery  and  the  church, 
both  which  may  seem  curious  to  persons  who  are  not 
faraih'ar  with  Catholic  countries ;  though  of  inferior 
interest  to  those  of  Montreal  and  Quebec.  The  nuns 
possess  a  large  tract  of  land,  nearly  in  the  centre  of 
the  town,  which  is  surrounded  by  a  high  wall  :  and 
they  devote  their  time  to  the  care  of  the  sick,  and  the 
education  of  girls. 

The  view  of  Montreal  from  the  wharf  is  uninter- 
rupted. The  city  is  distinguished  at  the  distance  of 
9  miles,  by  its  thick  mass  of  buildings,  roofed  with 
sheets  of  tin,  and  overtopped  by  church  spires,  shining 
with  the  same  metal.  Behind  it  rises  a  fine  moun- 
tain, spotted  with  orchards ;  on  the  right,  down  the 
St.  Lawrence,  is  the  fortified  island  of  St.  Helen  ;  and 
on  the  left,  that  of  the  Nuns,  and  several  smaller  ones 
at  a  distance,  through  which  are  seen  the  sheets  of 
white  foam  caused  by  the  rapids.  The  shores  are 
low  and  perfectly  flat  m  every  direction  ;  which,  with 
the  wide  expanse  of  wrater,  gives  an  aspect  of  tire- 
some monotony  and  extension  to  the  scene.  At  a 
great  distance  up  are  seen  Isle  Heron  and  others.  Uni- 
formity will  be  found  characteristic  of  almost  the 
whole  voyage  to  Quebec. 

The  current  of  the  river  will  appear  extremely 
rapid,  particularly  near  those  parts  where  the  surface 
is  broken  by  rocts ;  but  the  steamboats  are  supplied 
with  engines  comparatively  powerful,  and  are  able  to 
effect  the  passage  with  facility  and  in  safety.  It  is 
impossible  for  any  boat  to  go  through  the  current 
without  being  borne  rapidly  down  in  some  places  ; 
and  there  is  a  part  of  the  river  near  the  middle,  where 
the  water  is  clear,  and  the  rocks  are  easily  seen  on 
the  bottom,  as  the  boats  glide  on  above  them.  In  re- 
turning, the  boats  sometimes  pass  between  two  rocks, 
near  the  rapids,  that  on  the  east  being  under  water. 
Here  the  river  is  much  agitated,  and  sometimes  throws 
the  water  on  deck  without  any  danger. 

A  particular  description  of  the  variniis  obiert«  in 


H 


ittOM'KLAL. 


id\) 


Montreal,  and  the  vicinity,  will  be  postponed  ibr  the 
present ;  and  it  is  necessary  here  to  mention  only  the 
more  prominent  objects  which  strike  the  eye  on  the 
approach. 

A  large  tinned  roof  on  the  left,  with  a  small  steeple, 
belone:s  to  the  convent  of  Gray  Nuns  ;  further  back  is 
the  Recollet  church ;  then  the  French  Parish  church, 
near  which  is  seen  the  Great  Cathedral.  The  Eng- 
lish Episcopal  church  has  a  tall  pyramidal  spire  ;  and 
that  which  rises  farther  to  the  right,  and  near  the  shore, 
is  the  church  of  Bon-secours.  From  some  places 
may  be  seen  the  top  of  Nelson's  monument,  with  se- 
veral other  remarkable  objects,  particularly  the  bar- 
racks, on  the  right,  behind  the  remnant  of  the  old  city 
wall. 


MONTREAL. 

Inns,  Masonic  Hall,*  at  the  north  end  of  the  city, 
with  a  piazza  over  the  bank  :  Goodenough's,  St. 
PauPs-street ;  Mansion  house,  do.  by  Martinant.  Also 
Clamp's  hotel.  These  are  all  large  houses,  and  por- 
ters will  be  found  on  the  shore  belonging  to  each,  who 
will  convey  the  luggage,  and  show  the  way. 

The  landing  place  is  unpleasant,  and  the  stranger 
may  be  struck  with  the  narrowness  of  the  streets,  the 
lowness  and  heavy  aspect  of  the  houses,  which  are  of 
stone  or  plastered  to  resemble  it :  but  all  this  is  in 
conformity  with  the  fashion  of  the  country  ;  and  Mon- 
treal contains  many  fine  buildings  and  other  objects 
worthy  of  notice,  together  with  a  vicinity  which  in 
the  warm  season  of  the  year  is  truly  delightful. 

Those  who  remain  but  a  short  time  in  this  city, 
may  easily  pay  a  hasty  visit  to  the  principal  objects  of 

*  The  Masonic  Hall  is  the  most  expensive  hotel  in  Montreal.  It  is 
kept  by  Mr.  Riasco,  an  Italian,  and  has  a  restaurant  ui  the  French  fa- 
shion, where  the  stranger  may  select  his  dinner  from  a  long  bill  of  fare. 
The  highest  rate  of  board,  including  private  parlour,  &c.  is  11.  5»\  pm 
'Irv.    The  main  building  is  4  stories  hig]»,  and  the  two  wings  ^. 


1.) 


200 


M#^TKi:Aii. 


r  " 


f: 


i    1 


curiosity ;  and  are  recommended  to  take  a  vvaik 
through  the  two  principal  streets,  and  to  notice  the 
following  buildings  and  places. 

At  the  north  end  of  ot.  Paul's-street  are  the  Bar- 
racks. Above  these  are  the  Hospital  and  Public 
Baths.  Just  above  the  Masonic  Hall,  is  the  French 
church  of  Bon-secours,  which,  like  the  other  Canadian 
religious  buildings  generally,  is  formed  much  on  the 
plan  of  those  in  France.  The  roofs  are,  however, 
generally  covered  with  tin,  which  is  not  much  used  in 
other  countries.  This  is  near  the  northern  limit  of 
Montreal,  beyond  which  begins  the  Qjuebec  suburb. 

Masonic  nail,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  street. 

Theatre,  adjoining  the  Masonic  Hall. 

Market  Place*  and  JVelson's  Monument,  Then  fol- 
lows a  double  row  of  shops.  On  the  east  side  are 
several,  which  show  articles  of  Indian  manufacture 
for  sale.  These,  however,  had  better  be  bought  at  the 
nunneries,  if  it  is  intended  to  visit  them. 

The  Black  Nuns'  Garden,  Convent,  and  Chapel,  are 
on  the  west  side  of  the  street.  The  wall  is  very  high. 
The  porter  at  the  gate  will  give  admission  and  direc- 
tions, but  in  French.  Visiters  are  expected  to  pur- 
chase a  few  articles  of  ^uns'  or  Indian  manufacture. 
It  is  most  agreeable  to  go  in  parties. 

The  New  Cathedral  and  Old  Parish  Church  are 
close  by  :  a  short  street  leads  to  them,  west. 

The  New  Cathedral 

is  probabljT  the  largest  church  in  North  America,  un- 
less exceptions  are  to  be  made  in  favor  of  Mexico.  This 
edifice  is  at  present  partly  concealed  by  the  old  Ca- 
thedral, which  is  to  be  removed  on  its  completion,  to 
leave  the  front  open  to  a  large  square :  the  Place 
d'Armes,  It  was  commenced  in  1825,  and  the  walls 
were  raised  and  the  roof  partly  finished  al  the  close  of 


*  A  new  market  is  to  be  built  iirstqad  of  the  oW, 


MONTXIE.U.. 


20  L 


t  a   vvaik 
notice  the 

e  the  Bar- 
nd  Public 
he  French 
r  Canadian 
uch  on  the 
,  however, 
ich  used  in 
rn  limit  ot^ 
:  suburb, 
street. 

Then  foi- 
st side  are 
lanufacture 
ught  at  the 

ChapeU  are 
\  very  high, 
and  direc- 
ed  to  pur- 
anufaclure. 

Churcfi  are 
I. 


meiicay  un> 
jxico.  This 
he  old  Ca- 
[ipletion.  to 
:  the  Place, 
the  walls 
the  close  of 


Mr. 


architect 


J'Donnell,  t 

perintending  the  work,  gave  the  plan,  whicfi  is  partly 
copied  from  some  of  the  European  models  of  the  r3th, 
14th,  and  16th  centuries.  It  is  of  the  plainest  style 
that  can  bear  the  name  of  Gothic  :  any  exuberance  of 
ornament  being  inconsistent  with  a  climate  so  severe  as 
that  of  Canada. 

It'  is  266  feet  lon^  from  west  to  east,  and  134  feet 
wide.  It  was  designed  to  have  six  quadrangular 
towers,  each  200  feet  high  :  3  on  each  flank,  and  2  at 
each  end.  The  curtain,  or  space  between  the  front 
towers  is  73  feet  by  119,  ana  has  parapets.  There 
are  6  public  entrances  and  3  private  to  the  first  floor, 
and  4  to  the  galleries.  The  building  can  contain 
10,000  persons,  which  number  may  assemble  and  dis- 
perse in  a  few  minutes.  The  eastern  window  over 
the  high  altar  is  32  by  64  feet,  and  is  to  be  divided  by 
shafts  and  mullions  for  stained  glass.  The  groins  of 
the  ceiling  are  painted  in  fresco.  The  cefling  will  be 
80  feet  high,  groined  and  partly  supported  b3r  a  double 
range  of  grouped  columns,  intersected  by  rails.  The 
circuit  of  the  edifice  is  1126  feet. 

There  are  to  be  7  altars.  The  floor  rises  gradually 
from  the  entrance  to  the  high  altar.  The  house  is  to 
be  warmed  by  heated  air  from  stoves  under  the  floor. 
The  exterior  is  faced  with  hewn  stone,  from  the  moun- 
tain. A  promenade  75  feet  by  25,  elevated  more  than 
100  feet  between  the  towns  will  command  a  noble 
view.    It  is  now  roofed,  and  nearly  completed. 

GoodenotLsK's  Hotel  is  on  the  west  side,  in  a  court 
yard.— Further  on,  a  street  on  the  opposite  side  brings 
you  in  sight  of  the 

Gray  Nuns'  Convent,  a  large  stone  building,  partly 
new,  aoout  410  feet  in  length. 

Mansion  House  Hotel,  St.  Paul's-street,  below  an 
open  square. 

(The  Canal  to  Lachine  begins  on  the  river  shore, 
nearly  against  here. 

The  Seminary  (La  Seminaire  de  St.  Sulpice?)  is  an 

6 


..^ 


202 


MOWkHEAL. 


,<  I 


h' 


antique  building,  and  contains  i  Catholic  libraiy  ot* 
about  6000  volumes  ;  but  access  it  is  not  very  easily 
obtained.  The  College  in  thio  city  was  built  by 
money  supplied  from  the  funds  of  this  institution. 
The  Priests  are  the  Seigneurs  of  the  whole  island  of 
Montreal. 

The  College  is  a  large  building  of  stone,  three  sto- 
ries high,  erected  in  1819  out  of  the  funds  of  the 
"Seminary."  It  has  a  front  of  about  150  feet,  with 
■win^s  projecting  in  front  and  rear,  which  make  the 
whole  length  about  220  feet.  In  order  to  guard 
against  fire,  there  is  scarcely  any  wood  used  in  the 
construction ;  and  large  iron  doors  are  hung  in  the 
passages  in  such  a  manner  that,  by  shutting  them,  the 
whole  building  may  be  divided  into  three  parts,  each 
fire-proof. 

It  contains  about  300  students,  who  are  divided  into 
8  classes,  to  each  of  which  is  devoted  a  year,  with  the 
exception  of  the  two  last,  which  occupy  but  6  months 
apiece ;  so  that  the  whole  course  of  instruction  is  finished 
in  7  years.  Many  of  the  pupils,  however,  leave  the 
institution  before  completing  the  course. 

The  Chapel  is  in  the  south  wing ;  and  the  rest  of 
the  building  is  divided  into  recitation  roonis,  and  bed 
rooms,  the  former  of  which  are  hung  with  maps  and 
religious  pictures,  and  the  latter  supplied  with  crosses 
and  fonts.  Every  thing  is  very  plain  in  the  furniture. 
The  price  of  instruction  is  about  eighty  dollars  per 
year,  and  some  of  the  pupils  have  allowances  made 
them  ;  particularly  those  designed  for  the  Church, 
who  assist  in  instruction  by  day,  and  study  by  night. 
There  is  a  preparatory  School  connected  with  the 
College.  One  of  the  instructers  always  oversees  the 
boys  in  their  recreations. 

Returning  to  the  square,  and  entering  another  prin- 
cipal street  running  parallel  to  St.  Paul's,  you  pass 
numerous  respectable  and  some  e'egant  dwellings, 
leaving  the  Parish  Church  and  the  new  Cathedral  on 
the  east. 


MO^TUEAL. 


'203 


The  Wesbyan  Chapel  The  American  Congrega- 
tional, and  the  English  Episcopal  Churches  are  passed 
on  this  side  of  the  town. 

The  Court  House  is  large,  but  old ;  and  in  the  rear 
of  it  is 

The  Parade,  a  handsome  piece  of  g^round,  with  a 
walk,  where  the  troons  are  drilled  every  morning, 
generally  at  10  o'clock.  There  is  commonly  but  a 
small  number  of  soldiers  in  the  city,  during:  peace ; 
and  a  regiment  garrisons  Montreal  and  the  other  posts 
in  the  neighbourhood  towards  the  United  States. 

The  Society  of  Natural  History  have  an  interesting 
collection  of  ammals,  minerals,  plants,  &c.  principally 
collected  in  the  provinces. 

A  House  of  Industry  has  been  recently  established. 

The  British  and  Canadian  School  Society  established 
schools  on  the  British  system  in  Montreal,  in  Sept. 
1822.  In  Sept.  1825,  there  had  been  admitted  1706 
boys,  and  444  girls,  most  of  whom  were  of  the  poorer 
class.  It  is  supported  by  voluntary  subscriptions. 
Nine  hundred  pounds,  the  remainder  of  «  large  sum 
collected  in  England  for  the  instruction  of  Indians  not 
otherwise  instructed,  is  in  the  hands  of  this  society,  to 
be  hereafter  devoted  to  that  object. 

There  is  a  Lancasterian  School  i»f  several  hundred 
scholars,  where  some  of  the  most  influential  Canadians, 
Catho  ics,  having  become  aware  of  the  value  of  educa- 
tion, have  placed  themselves  on  the  committee.  There 
is  an  Episcopal  School  on  Bell's  system. 

The  priests  in  Canada  have  begun  to  educate  in  self 
defence.  The  schools  provided  for  by  government, 
are  restricted  to  masters  of  the  English  Church  ;  and 
a  considerable  number  of  school-houses  have  been 
erected,  but  almost  confined  to  the  townships. 

Schools,  ^c.  in  Lorver  Canada. — According  to  a  re- 
port made  in  the  House  of  Assembly  of  the  Province 
in  1829,  there  were,  in  Montreal,  Qjuebec,  and  Three 
Rivers,  3  schools  of  royal  institution.  2  collesres,  6  con- 


m 


)i04 


MO^tTHEAL. 


I 

w 
1 


I 

III 
ill 


vents,  11  gratuitous  schools,  (containing  1314  pupils,) 
and  50  other  schools. 

In  the  country,  there  were  70  schools  of  royal  insti- 
tution, 4  colleges,  and  14  mission  schools. 

Island  op  St   Helen,  on  Grant's  Island. 

This  has  recently  been  purchased  by  the  British 
government,  for  a  military  position  and  depot.  It  is 
principally  covered  with  trees ;  but  has  a  beautiful 
garden  behind  the  quarters  of  the  officers ;  and  a  6ne 
road  winding  round  from  the  landing  place,  on  the 
south  end,  (where  are  some  remains  oT  old  works,  and 
a  new  battery,)  to  a  rocky  eminence  over  the  arsenal, 
"which  is  opposite  the  northern  quarter  of  the  town. 
This  rock  is  about  11  feet  higher  than  the  most  ele- 
vated parts  of  the  city  ;  and  the  view  from  it  is  hand- 
some, with  a  wild  ravine  just  below. 

The  arsenal  and  storehouses  form  three  buildings^ 
with  a  narrow  yard  between  them,  about  126  feet  in 
length.  The  batteries  range  on  the  river  and  town, 
and  are  furnished  with  neat  barracks,  a  magazine,  &c. 

The  MotJNTAixN  op  Montreal, 

the  summit  of  which  is  to  be  the  site  of  an  impregna- 
ble Citadel,  offers  an  extensive  and  delightful  view, 
and  should  by  no  means  be  forgotten  by  those  who 
have  an  opportunity  to  undertake  the  excursion.  It 
is  better  calculated  to  afford  an  idea  of  the  country, 
as  well  as  to  delight  the  eye,  than  any  other  excursion 
which  can  be  made.  Yet  it  is  recommended,  if  the 
traveller  stays  long  enough,  to  take  a  ride  or  two  in 
diflferent  directions,  after  having  visited  this  favourite 
spot.  Capt.  Partridge  skates  its  elevation  at  676  feet 
above  tide  water. 

There  are  three  ways  of  reaching  the  summit  of  the 
mountain :  on  foot,  by  an  intricate  route  from  the 
vouthern  part  of  the  city :  on  hon^ebark,  or  in  a  car.. 


m 


MONTREAL. 


205 


riage^  to  the  ridp:e  ;  or  round  the  north  end  to  the  rear. 
There  is  :ilso  a  footpath  up  the  north  end.  A  private 
road  turns  off  from  the  southern  road  on  the  ridge, 
passing:  through  a  gate. 

Heretofore  the  only  ij:ood  point  of  view  has  been 
from  a  rock  above  ^*Tavish  s  house,  whence  a  very 
st(!en  paih  le^ds  dir^'clly  down. 

Tne  country  spread  out  to  view  on  arriving  at  this 
commanding  height,  is  a  plain  of  such  vast  extent  as 
to  appear  in  many  direction-  quite  boundless.  In  fact, 
it  stretches  much  f  irther  than  would  be  imagined  ;  for 
all  the  way  to  Quebec  the  river's  banks  present  the 
same  appearance. 

The  spectator  faces  the  east.  The  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, almost  precipitous,  is  thickly  covered  with  trees, 
which  soon  giv^  place  below  to  a  smooth  descent,  de- 
clining to  the  base,  chietly  devoted  to  pasturage,  on 
the  elevation  of  which  st:inds  M*Tavish's  house.  A 
beautiful  display  of  cult  vated  fields  succeeds  on  the 
level,  divided  by  high  palings,  and  scattered  with  a 
few  hnuses.  Below  a  moderate  descent,  which  ap- 
pears like  an  oM  bank  of  the  river,  gardens  and  dwell- 
ings begin  to  increase  ;  and  behind  a  succeeding  one, 
of  a  similar  description,  are  suburbs. 

East,  on  the  horizon,  is  Boucherville  Mountain  ;  and 
over  it  is  seen,  more  indistinctly,  Belcjeil  Mountain. 
The  plain  country  between  the  Sorel  and  St  Law- 
rence is  divided  into  innumerable  fields,  with  scatter- 
ing houses.  In  the  same  direction  is  seen  St.  Heler/s, 
or  Grant's  Island  ;  and  in  a  direction  with  the  south 
end  of  it,  the  steeple  of  Bon-secour  church.  North 
of  this  are  the  Quebec  suburbs,  beginning  near  the 
barracks  ;  the  Waterworks,  and  Baths.  Nearer,  are 
seen  St.  Louis  and  St.  Lawrence  suburbs. 

(S.  S.  EasU  on  the  opposite  hhore,  La  Prairie  ;  and 
nearly  over  it,  the  site  of  St.  John's,  which  is  not  dis- 
tinguishable. In  a  range  with  them,  is  Nuns'  Island, 
and  Nuns'  Farm,  the  latter  on  this  shore       The  river 

S  2 


•  \ 


i  :i^' 


Irl 


^OG 


liOUTE   I^'   CANADA. 


is  31  miles  wide.  The  suburbs  on  the  south  side  ot 
the  city,  are  St.  Antoine,  Ricolet,  St.  Anne's,  and  St. 
Joseph's.     Distant  Moijiitains. 

North  Bout  de  Flsle,  the  extremity  of  Montreal 
Island,  Pointe  aux  Trembles,  and  the  village  of  Bou:- 
cherville  ;  opposite  which  is  Longueil,  and  further 
down.  Varennes,  with  a  two-sleepled  church. 

N.  East,  the  view  is  boundless,  with  a  succession  of 
cultivated  iields,  which  in  the  distance  become  quite 
undistinguishable.  The  same  appearance,  it  will 
hereafter  be  seen,  extends  along  the  river's  banks 
quite  to  Quebec. 

Road  round  the  Mountain. — The  road  near  the 
north  end  of  the  mountain  is  ornamented  with  many 
beautiful  seats,  and  there  are  also  some  extensive 
manufactories.  Behind  it  is  a  fine  extent  of  culti- 
vated ground. 

Othei:  Excue  tons. 

To  Lachine,  9  miles,  or  3  leagues.  The  river  road 
pleasantest ;  giving  a  view  of  the  Rapids,  Nuns'  and 
Heron  Islands,  the  Indian  village  of  Caughnawaga  op- 
posite, and  crossing  the  Lachine  Canal,  \i  Lachine 
is  a  small  house  kept  by  an  American.  Crystals  of 
axenite  (carb.  lime)  were  found  in  excavating  the 
canal.  The  pebbles  along  the  shore  are  the  frag- 
ments of  granite-  while  the  black,  or  deep  purple  rocks 
which  form  the  channel  are  limestone,  lying  in  strata 
nearly  horizontal. 

To  Pointe  aux  Trembles  and  Bout  de  VIsle, 
The  southern  road  to  the  Mountain,  *vbjch  crosses  it 
at  the  less  elevated  part  of  the  ridge,  near  the  middle, 
leads  through  St.  Joseph's  suburbs^  and  afterward 
passes  a  number  of  fine  country  seats.  The  most  re- 
markable are  those  of  Mr.  M*Gillivray,  and  the  late 
Mr.  Gregory,  members  of  the  old  North-West  Com- 
pany, which  has  lately  been  converted  into  the  Hud- 
5=:on's  Bay  Company.    Tt  engrossed  the  Indian  tradr^ 


b  side  01 
,  and  St. 

Montreal 
J  of  Boir- 
d  further 
1. 

cession  of 
^me  quite 
i,  it  will 
r's  banks 

near  the 
vith  many 

extensive 
I  of  culti- 


river  road 
Nuns'  and 
awaga  op- 
U  Lachine 
Jrystals  of 
vating  the 

the  frag- 
irple  rocks 

in  strata 


p. 

1  crosses  it 
he  middle, 
afterward 
e  most  re- 
nd the  late 
Vest  Com- 
3  the  Hud- 
id  ian  tr.idr' 


nr 


IMM 


lo 


JV^orth, 


wit 
wai 
\vh 
tol; 
T 


.  SooUn 


^in 


.>ro^TBi:AL. 


207 


lot"  a  vast  distance  up  the  lakes,  and  enriched  many 
individuals,  whose  residences  add  materially  to  the 
appearance  of  the  city  and  its  environs. 

The  Priests'  Farm  is  passed  on  the  left,  near  the 
base  of  the  mountain,  and  is  a  lai-^e  tract  of  land,  with 
an  old  buildings  in  tlie  ancient  European  style,  pre- 
serving many  of  the  features  of  feudal  days,  with  its 
prajecLififi:  square  towers,  small  windows,  pointed 
roofs,  and  wearher-beaten  walls.  Th<.  barns  con- 
nected with  ii  are  very  spacious,  and  seem  capable 
of  containing  a  large  part  of  the  products  of  the  farm. 
The  oniy  wonder  seems  to  be  what  a  few  oA  men  can 
do  with  such  vast  stores,  as  well  as  with  thcr  receipts 
from  various  other  quarters. 

The  whole  island  of  Montreal  is  a  Seigneurie,  in 
which  the  monks  of  Ricolet,  as  Seigneurs,  have  the 
right  of  a  tax  on  every  farm,  on  every  purchase  and 
sale  of  real  estate,  and  many  other  privileges,  vested 
in  them  uy  the  king  of  France  on  the  first  settlement 
of  the  place.  Circumstances  have  conspired  to  reduce 
and  destroy  many  of  these  privileges,  so  that  the  an- 
nual income  of  the  priests,  from  this  rich  and  valuable 
Seigneurie,  though  Targe,  is  very  trivial,  in  comparison 
with  its  extent  and  fertility. 

Col.  Allenj  with  his  detachment  for  the  surjMcise  of 
Montreal,  in  1776,  crossed  the  river  from  Longueil ; 
but  Major  Brown,  not  being  able  to  land  above  the 
city  as  was  intended,  the  former  was  taken  prisoner 
by  Gov.  Carleton,  after  a  sharp  ei^agement,  loaded 
with  irons,  and  sent  to  England.  Cof.  Warner  after- 
ward erected  batteries  on  the  shore  at  Longueil,  by 
which  he  drove  back  the  governor  when  he  attempted 
to  land  on  his  way  to  relieve  St.  John's. 

The  population  of  Montreal,  by  a  census  taken  in 
1825,  was  nearly  24,000 ;  and  4  or  500  screater  than 
^hat  of  Quebec, 


20?. 


ROUTK  ly  fANAD.\. 


THE  RIDEAU  CANAL. 

This  work,  which  is  in  progress  at  the  expense  of 
Great  Britain,  is  to  effect  a  navigable  communication 
between  Lake  Ontario  and  the  Ottawa  river.  While 
a  line  of  frontier  fortresses  is  to  be  constructed,  in- 
cluding those  at  Qjuebec  and  Montreal,  at  an  estimated 
expense  of  798,000/.,  an  interior  line  of  navigation  is 
to  be  formed,  of  which  this  is  a  part,  at  the  supposed 
cost  of  527,000/.  The  object  of  it  is  to  secure,  in  time 
of  war,  the  transportation  of  military  stores,  &c.  by  an 
interior  route,  less  exposed  to  the  United  States,  and 
practicable  in  lake  vessels  of  125  tons.  It  is  a  great 
undertaking,  and  when  completed,  which  it  will  proba- 
bly be  in  a  few  years,  will  afford  a  most  interesting 
episode  to  the  travellers'  tour.  It  will  present  a  com- 
bmation  of  fine  natural  objects  and  noble  structures  of 
art.  Those  who  have  leisure,  will  be  pleased  with  a 
view  of  some  of  the  work?  in  iheir  unfinished  state. 
Others  may  perhaps  read  with  gratification  a  brief 
description  of^  some  of  the  principal  objects  on  the 
route.  Stage  coaches  run  to  By  town  in  connexion 
with  steamboats. 

At  Merrick's  Snie,  are  to  be  3  locks  of  8  feet  lift ; 
and  a  dam,  7  feet  hi^h  and  180  long,  at  the  head  of  it, 
to  lift  the  Rideau  river  into  the  Snie.  Considerable 
excavations  of  earth  and  rock  in  the  Snie. 

At  Edmund's  Rapids,  a  dam  8  feet  high,  and  400 
long  ;  and  a  lock  of  6  feet  lift.  The  excavations,  both 
earth  and  rock,  are  considerable.  Near  Philip's,  at 
the  same  rapids,  is  another  dam,  8  feet  high  and  250 
long  ;  a^d  a  lock  of  6  feet  lift. 

At  the  Old  Slys,  on  the  Rapids  of  Smith's  Fall,  is 
a  dam  18  feet  high  and  210  long ;  and  two  locks  of  8 
feet  lift.  ■ 

At  the  First  Rapids  is  a  dam  9  feet  in  height  and 
250  in  length,  with  a  lock  of  7  feet  lift.  There  is 
also  an  embankment  of  wood  and  clay,  2  miles  lonff. 


P 

I 


Kill 
the 
jnte 
cam 


THE   OTTAWA    ItlViitt. 


20U 


3 


At  Chaffey's  Mills  is  a  dam  30  feet  high  and  80  wide, 
^vith  two  3ocks  of  9  feet  lift. 

At  Nicholson's  Rapids  is  a  dam  15  feet  high  and  240 
lone ;  a  lock  of  10  feet  lift,  and  an  embankment  8  feet 
hi^  and  280  in  length,  &c.  &c. 

The  stone  was  found  convenient  on  the  ground,  and 
also  lime,  wood,  and  stone. 

The  Ridcau  Canal  will  open  to  a  navigable  con- 
nexion a  vast  extent  of  country,  and  if  extended  be- 
ypnd  the  Rideau  Lake,*  would  lead  to  the  shores  of ' 
lakes  and  rivers,  as  yet  imperfectly  known,  as  indeed . 
are  those  through  which  the  canal  already  lies.  The 
road  from  Kingston  to  Montreal  crosses  the  Rideau 
Canal  at  Tuttle's  hill,  and  a  new  village  called  Ever- 


green. 


Boats  •go  from  Montreal  up  the  Grand  River  to  the 
mouth  ot  the  Rideau,  and  the  commencement  of  the 
canal,  by  the  La  Chine  and  .Grenville  canals.  A  pas- 
sage may  now  be  easily  obtained  in  steamboats.  The, 
William  King,  a  boat  built  on  the  Annesley  plan, began . 
in  1839  to  run  uetween  Hawkesbury,  Grenville,  andi 
Hull,  in  connexion  with  a  line. 

Byiomn  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Rideau  and 
Ottawa;  it  is  120  miles  from  Montreal,  and  150  from 


m 


*  Nearly  west  from  the  city  of  Montreal,  distant  about  20  miles,  tlie 
Ottawa  river  fmrntlie  west  fall?  into  one  of  the  liaysof  tbeSt^  Lawrence. 
T^e  Ouawa  isitnelf  n  !aige  and  navigable  stream,  rising  in  tbe  recesses 
of  the  Chip|)evva  country,  five  or  six  J}undred  miJes  north-wf-st  ftom  the 
island  and  city  of  Montreal ;  flovvine:  north-east  until  within  about  120 
mile*!  above  its  moiitli,  rrciMves  Ridenu,  and  assuming  a  nearly /easterly 
direction,  communicates  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  as  already  stated. 

The  Rideau  is  a  small,  hut  an  impoitnnt  river,  rising  in  Leeds  county, 
township  of  Kltloy,  Lower  Canada,  within  30  miles  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
at  the  lower  end  of  the  TJiousand  Islands.  At  its  source  the  Rideau  ig 
a  sluggish  stream,  and  in  no  part  of  its  course  much  impeded  by  falls  ; 
its  entire  length,  however,  is  not  al>ovc  60  miles ;  course  north-east  nearly. 

Near  the  head  of  the  Rideau.,  and  on  tliesamc  table  laud,  extends  lake 
GantionoquI,  discharging  its  waters  into  the  St.  Lawrence, 20 miles  below 
Kingston,  and  the  bottom  of  lake  Ontario.  The  entire  distance  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Ottawas  to  that  of  the  Gannonoqui,  by  the  route  of  the 
intended  canal,  is  nearly  190  miles,  and  by  the  St.  Lawrence  160.  The 
canal  route,  therefore.  e\rep<|pt}nt  of  the  Pf.  Tiawronre.  asl9tol6.-'^a 


'l0 


210 


BOUTE    IN  CANADA. 


Kingston,  and  is  expected  to  become  an  jmportant 
place  from  its  situation.  The  Rideau  received  its 
French  name  from  the  beautiful  cascade,  like  a  white 
curtain,  with  which  it  descends  27  itei,  into  the 
Ottawa.  North  of  the  town  the  Ottawa  is  about  a 
mile  in  breadth.  It  has  a  fall  of  32  feet,  and  is  diver- 
sified with  numerous  islands.  Below  the  fall  the  water 
is  very  deep ;  and  the  Rideau  Canal  here  descends  to 
it  down  a  narrow  cleft  in  a  precipitous  bank  by  eight 
Jocks  of  fine  stone  work,  ten  feet  lift.  The  canal,  on 
gaining  the  eminence,  passes  through  the  village,  and 
opens  upon  a  large  beaver  meadow  of  250  acres, 
which  receives  a  branch  canal  from  Lcike  Chaudiere 
on  the  Ottawa,  and  will  form  a  large  basin  for  timJ  cr, 
A  little  south  of  the  town  is  a  mountainous  ridt;c, 
through  which  the  canal  passes  by  a  natural  notch. 
The  western  part  of  the  village  is  situated  on  high 
and  commanding  ground  ;  and  an  hospital  and  military 
barracks  have  been  erected  on  the  Cape,  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  200  feet  above  the  river.  This  is  capable  of 
being  rendered  impregnable,  and  has  attracted  the 
attention  of  English  engineers. 

Cobb's  Cave  is  an  extensive  cavern,  discovered  in 
1828  by  a  lady. 

By  town  was  a  wilderness  in  1826  ;  and  in  1827  con- 
tained 2000  inhabitants,  with  a  market,  school-house, 
and  four  churches  built  and  building.  It  is  likely  to 
become  a  place  of  great  trade,  even  in  furs  ;  and  tnere 
are  mines  of  iron,  lead,  and  tin,  and  quarries  of  marble 
in  the  vicinity. 

The  Great  Ottawa  Bridse. — This  is  an  immense 
structure,  of  bold  design  and  adnn'rable  workmanship. 
The  first  two  arches  on  the  Lower  Canada  side,  are 
each  sixty  feet  span,  and  of  stone,  extending  over  the 
two  channels  on  that  side  of  the  Kettle.  Then  follows 
a  piece  of  wooden  bridge,  rising  on  trestles,  which 
brings  the  traveller  to  an  island,  beyond  which  is  a 
r^pid  and  tumultuous  current,  called  the  Chaudiere 
frreat  Kettle.     Over  this  an  attempt  was  made,  which 


i 


v\  a 


TUE   ST.    LAWKE.NCE. 


iiH 


mportant 
eived  its 
e  a  white 

into  the 
i  about  a 
I  is  diver- 
ihe  water 
ipcends  to 

by  eight 

canal,  on 
llage,  and 
50  acres, 
rhaudiere 
or  timV  er, 
)us  riti^c, 
iral  notch. 
d  on  high 
id  military 

an  eleva- 
capable  of 
racted  the 

covered  in 

1827  con- 

lool -house, 

likely  to 

and  there 

of  marble 

immense 
kmanship. 
a  side,  are 
>:  over  the 
en  follows 
les,  which 
which  is  a 
Chaudiere 
ide<  which 


was  repeated  in  1823  with  success,  to  throw  a  mag- 
nificent arch,  of  220  feet  span.  Two  arches  cross  the 
smaller  channels  on  the  otner  side. 

From  the  bridge  a  fine  road  had  been  opened  in  the 
upper  province  to  the  village.  A  wooden  bridge  on 
this  road,  114  feet  span,  crosses  a  gulley. 

Hull  is  opposite  Bytown,  connected  with  it  by  the 
great  Ottawa  lirid;;e.  This  township  belongs  to 
Philemon  Wright,  Esq.  an  American  farmer  of  great 
affluence  and  experience.  His  settlement,  called 
Wrightstown,  is  seen  from  Bytown,  being  situated  at 
the  Falls. 

« 

Route  from  Montreal  to  Niagara. 
(For  this  route  see  pages  104  to  109.) 

ROUTE  FROM  MONTREAL  TO  QUEBEC. 

Road  to  Quebec. 

Notwithstanding  the  common  prejudices  against 
travelling  by  land  in  Canada,  which  are  entertained 
by  many  persons  not  acquainted  with  the  country,  it 
is  recommended  to  those  who  may  find  it  convenient, 
to  make  arrangements  for  performing  a  part  of  the 
journey  in  this  manner,  either  g^oing  or  returning. 

The  country  is  indeed  a  dead  level,  but  it  is  entirely 
reduced  to  cultivation,  thickly  populated,  and  blessed 
with  good  roads.  The  way  lies  along  the  very  margin 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  passing  an  almost  uninterrupted 
succession  of  dwellings,  and  supplied  with  many  com- 
fortable and  some  good  inns,  which  will  be  particu- 
larly mentioned. 

As  the  strength  of  the  current  makes  the  passage  of 
the  steamboats  up  the  river  about  12  hours  longer  than 
that  down,  it  would  on  this  account  be  better  to  return 
by  land ;  and  this  course  would  certainly  be  recom- 
mended, but  for  the  greater  difficulty  of  obtaining  good 
carriages  in  Quebec.    It  is  to  be  hoped  that  regular 


ROUTE  TU  ULIIIEC. 


m 


i-^ 


Coaches  will  ere  long  be  established  to  run  betweeu 
the  Iwo  cities ;  for,  at  present,  it  is  necessary  to  hire 
a  caleche,  or  a  sla^e  coach,  at  a  pretty  high  price. 
At  Three  Rivers  (Trois  Rivieres),  60  mile?,  the  tra- 
veller ma^  dismiss  his  carriage,  and  enter  the  steam- 
boats, which  regularly  stop  there  up  and  down. 

Steamboat  to  Quebec. 


Lea'  "^f^  Montreal  in  the  steamboat,  vou  pass  under 
the  fori  ^  '  S  Helen's  Island,  the  steeples  and  cupolas 
of  the  cii^  beii/;^  >een  nearly  in  the  foliowinff  order  be- 
ginning at  the  souih  end ;  Gray  Nuns',  Ricolet  Church? 
Black  Nuns',  New  and  Oldf  Cathedrals,  Episcopal 
Church,  Nelson's  Monument,  Bon-secour  Church, 
Near  the  last,  on  the  shore,  is  the  Masonic  Hotel,  then 
the  Barracks,  Waterworks,  and  Baths,  the  begiku'^inc 
of  the  Quebec  suburbs,  the  residences  of  Judge  Keed 
and  Mr.  Malson,  with  terraced  gardens  towards  he 
river, &c.  A  little  below  u  Malson's  Brewery^  aid 
the  late  Sir  John  Johnson's  residence,  (a  grandson  of 
Sir  William  Johnson,  for  whom  seepage  57.)  Tae 
house  is  of  brick,  with  a  piazza. 

The  Rapids  of  St.  Mary  are  between  the  island  and 
these  last-mentioned  objects,  and  run  with  such  rapidity 
that  steamboats  are  sometimes  obliged  to  be  drawn  up 
by  cattle  a  little  distance. 

Longueil,  just  below  St.  Helen's. 

Longue  Pointe,  6  miles  (2  leagues)  from  Montreal. 

VerchereSf  on  the  east  side. 

Vare7mes  has  a  church  with  double  spire. 

Pointe  aux  Trembles,  9  miles,  (3  leagues.)  Hero  is 
a  nunnery,  in  which  is  a  pretty  large  school  for  girls. 
There  are  two  good  inns  in  the  place. 

Bout  de  risle.    Here  is  no  village,  but  caly  a  ferry. 

Contreccsur,  on  the  east. 

Reperitigny,  a  pretty  village. 

At  this  place  it  is  recommended  to  the  traveller  by 
land,  to  rttake  a  deviation  from  the  direct  road  along 


1  betwefcu 
iry  to  hire 
ligh  price. 
B?,  tlie  tra- 
the  steam- 
wn. 


pass  under 
ind  cupolas 
ff  order  be- 
let  Churcli? 
Episcopal 
ir  Church. 
Hotel,  then 
J  begii^r^infir 
^udge  Keed 
;owards  he 
•ewery>  a.nd 
grandson  oi 
^57.)    Tae 

e  island  and 
ich  rapidity 
)e  drawn  up 


Mofitreal. 

e. 

s.)    Hero  is 

ool  for  girls. 

oflly  a  ferry. 


traveller  by 
;t  road  along" 


DJThroofi  JV. 


fll 

cc 

is 
an 


iio 

Ri* 
inn 
mil 

Y 

the 

hos 

in  c 

the 

is  a 

1 

nati 

this 

tiva 

thei 

roac 

wbi 

and 

dun 

sanfi< 


St 
rive 
and 
assis 


I  Jl(Al>E  Ul'  'tU£  ST.  LAVVKii-Sci;. 


21. J 


the  livcr,  it  he  finds  it  convenient,  to  see  the  delightful 
country  between  it  and  the  town  ot'  Assomption.  There 
is  a  beautiful  road  on  each  bank,  varied  with  houses 
and  trees.  Return  so  as  to  strike  the  road  near  St. 
Nulpicc. 

St,Sulpic€j  24  miles  (0  leagues)  from  Montreal. 

La  Jnoraye, 

Berthier. "  Aere  is  an  excellent  inn,  kept  by  a  man 
from  the  United  States,  whose  wife  is  a  Canadian. 

Machiche  is  a  pretty  town,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Riviere  du  Loup,  and  iias  a  very  neat  and  comfortable 
inn,  of  the  best  Canadian  stamp,  and  famous  for  many 
miles  round.  Many  French  customs  are  still  preserved 
by  the  unmixed  inhabit^Mits  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  some 
of  which  are  agreeable  and  interesting.  At  many  of 
the  inns,  the  traveller  will  receive  the  most  kind  and 
hospitable  attentions,  and  will  find  great  gratification 
in  observing  the  handsome  flower-gardens,  as  well  as 
the  neat  arrangement  of  the  furniture.  At  this  house 
is  a  handsome  collection  of  green-house  plants. 

There  is  very  little  variety  to  be  discovered  in  the 
natural  surface  of  the  ground,  but  the  journey  through 
this  region  presents  almost  an  unvarying  scene  of  cul- 
tivation and  fertility.  For  a  great  part  of  the  distance, 
there  is  a  narrow  strip  of  com  or  potatoes  between  the 
road  and  the  river's  bank,  to  correspond  with  the  fields 
which  stretch  off  to  such  a  distance  on  the  other  hand ; 
and  the  variety  of  crops,  and  the  occasional  rows  and 
clumps  of  trees,  remove,  in  a  good  degree,  the  natural 
sameness  of  the  landscape. 

Navigation  and  Trade  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  &/C. 

Steamboats  are  of  the  utmost  importance  on  this  ^reat 

river,  for  they  contribute  extremely  to  the  convenience 

and  expedition  of  travelling,  and  render  most  valuable 

assistance  to  commerce.     There  are  many  steamboats 

*rn=tantlv  em'^lovod  between  Montrej^l  and  Q^iebec^ 

T 


I 


•JM 


UOUTli    TO   Ul^iiliEt. 


most  ot  them  fitted  to  accommodate  nassoiigeis,  a.'* 
well  as  to  carry  freight,  and  all  provided  with  power- 
ful engines.  In  1820  a  passage  was  made  froni  Que- 
bec to  Montreal,  in  a  steamboat,  in  20  hours  and  40 
minutes — the  shortest  ever  known.  The  principal 
article  of  export  from  Canada  is  lumber,  a  great  deal 
of  which  is  carried  to  Quebec  in  immense  rafts,  and 
then  shipped  for  England.  These  rafts  have  usually 
a  great  number  of  sails  to  hoist  in  a  fair  wind,  with 
huts  to  shelter  the  men  from  the  weather,  so  that  they 
have  a  very  singular  appearance,  and  at  a  little  dis- 
tance look  like  a  fleet  of  sail  boats.  The  population 
of  Lower  Canada  is  estimated  at  about  200,000. 

The  French  Canadians,  notyvithsianding  the  common 
prejudices  against  them,  appear,  on  acquaintance,  to 
be  an  intelligent  people.  They  certainly  are  amiable, 
cheerful,  and  gay,  and  their  backwardness  in  improve- 
ments is  attributable  to  the  system  under  which  they 
live.  They  are  generally  brought  up  in  great  igno- 
rance, and  they  are  taught  to  dislike  and  avoid  not 
only  the  Protestant  principles,  but  Protestants  them- 
selves. The  author  has  the  word  of  one  of  their 
priests  for  stating,  that  not  more  than  one-sixth  of  the 

Population  are  ever  taught  to  read  or  write.  In  New- 
Ingland,  as  is  well  known,  the  law  provides  for  the 
instruction  of  every  child,  without  exception :  and 
every  child  is  actually  instructed.  Books  and  news- 
papers, therefore,  lose  their  effect  as  well  as  their 
value  among  these  people.  The  British  government 
have  encouraged  scnoois  here,  but  until  lately,  almost 
without  success.  Amon^  those  regions  where  English 
and  Scotch  have  settled,  instruction  is  gaining  ground  ; 
and  in  Montreal,  the  public  schools  are  rising  in  im- 
portance :  but  it  is  to  be  feared  that  the  Catholic 
priests  will  long  continue  to  oppose  the  extension  ot 
real  knowledge,  and  that  while  they  retain  their  in- 
fluence, the  character  of  the  people  will  remain  de- 
pressed. 
The  "  Procedure^''  ot  Canada  i?  founded  on  the  edict 


;  1' 


!1 


T(nV\    OF   SORKL. 


21.J 


>3(;iigeis,  a.-^ 
irith  power- 
!  from  Que- 
lurs  and  40 
le  principal 
i  great  deal 
i  rafts,  and 
lave  usually 
wind,  with 
so  that  they 
t  a  little  dis- 
e  population 
)0,000. 
the  common 
uaintance,  to 
are  amiable, 
s  in  improve- 
p  which  they 
I  great  igno- 
id  avoid  not 
jstants  them- 
one  of  their 
i-sixth  of  the 
le.     In  New- 
)vides  for  the 
:eption :    and 
iks  and  news- 
well  as  their 
h  government 
lately,  almost 
vhere  English 
ining  ground ; 
rising  in  ini- 
the  Catholic 
I  extension  ot 
2tain  their  in- 
ill  remain  de- 

id  on  the  edict 


of  Louis  14th,  of  1667,  and  is  the  basis  of  the  Civil 
Code.  There  were  no  lawyers  before  the  conquest 
in  1759,  when  they  were  created ;  and  martial  law 
prevailed  from  that  time  till  1774.  The  trial  by  jury 
was  introduced  in  1705  ;  and  the  constitutional  cnarter 
in  1791. 

There  are  many  signs  of  prosperity  exhibited  by  the 
farmers  between  Montreal  and  Three  Rivers,  in  the 
extension  or  erection  of  buildings.  On  each  farm  is 
usually  to  be  seen  about  half  an  acre  of  Indian  corn, 
which  will  furnish  18  or  20  bushels  ;  and  it  is  the  cus- 
tom not  to  build  fences,  the  cattle  being  kept  from  the 
land,  and  fed  on  weeds  until  the  crops  are  off. 

The  houses  are  genenlly  of  one  story,  and  are  built 
of  wood  or  stone,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  coun- 
try. Some  of  them  are  formed  of  squared  timbers, 
and  even  of  round  logs  ;  but  the  latter  are  usually  em- 
ployed for  the  construction  of  barns  only,  whicn  are 
often  covered  with  thatch.  The  bouses  and  barns  are 
frequently  composed  of  several  small  buildings,  erected 
at  diflferent  periods,  according  to  the  capacity  or  neces- 
sities of  the  proprietors. 

William  Henry,  or  Sorel, 
45  mi7es,  or  15  leagues,  from  MmitreaL 

This  town,  though  quite  small,  is  one  of  the  princi- 
pal places  between  the  two  capitals.  It  is  on  the 
south  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Sorel,  or  Richelieu,  in  a  very  sandy  situation;  and 
contains  nothing  worthy  of  notice  except  a  little  old 
church,  a  palisadoed  fort,  and  a  neat  little  square,  at 
the  distance  of  a  short  walk,  surrounded  with  several 
pretty  white  houses,  a  church,  &c.  a  little  in  the  New- 
England  style.  The  fences  are  generally  low.,  and 
afford  the  sight  of  gardens. 

The  flowers  which  abound  in  the  Canadian  gardens 
^re  principally  roses,  carnations,  sweet-williams,  can- 


-2J0 


RObTE    10   (iUliJBKC. 


M'-f' 


,! 


didus,  monthly  roses  (blossoming  only  a  part  of  tlio 
year). 

As  the  steamboats  usually  stop  here  half  an  hour  or 
more,  there  is  time  enough  to  go  on  shore.  The  popu- 
lation principally  consists  of  disbanded  soldiers,  so  that 
the  dwellings  are  generally  poor,  and  most  of  the  peo- 
ple speak  some  dialect  of  English.  The  garrison  con- 
tains only  30  or  40  men  in  time  of  peace,  and  the  com- 
manding officer  has  a  pretty  residence  opposite  the 
town,  where  the  fields  have  a  green  and  fertile  ap- 
pearance. 

The  Government  House  stands  about  three-quarters 
of  a  mile  beyond  the  town.  It  is  a  large  red  building, 
with  barracKs  near  il.  The  boat  turns  round  on  teav- 
Ing  Sorel,  and  returns  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  distant 
land  beginning  'o  have  some  elevation. 

On  the  opposite  point,  Gen.  Montgoniery  erected 
batteries  on  taking  the  place,  in  1776,  and  prepared 
rafts  and  floating  batteries,  which  maintained  an  en- 
i^agement  with  the  ships  in  which  Gov.  Carleton  at- 
tenopted  to  escape  to  Qjuebec,  and  drove  him  back 
towards  Montreal.  He  afterward  passed  them  io  an 
open  boat  at  night ;  but  his  vessels  fell  into  the  hands 
of  the  Americans. 

Berlliier  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
but  out  of  sight,  being  behind  several  low  islands. 
Some  of  the  steamboats  stop  there  instead  of  at  Sorel . 
There  is  a  ferry  across. 

Lake  St.  Peter. 

On  entering  this  large  tract  of  water,  the  sliores  at 
the  opposite  end  appear  like  mere  lines  upon  the  hori- 
zon, the  land  being  still  so  flat  near  the  river  as  to 
seem  hardly  sufficient  to  prevent  it  from  overflowing. 
A  vessel  at  the  opposite  end  appears  like  a  mere 
speck,  the  length  ot'  the  lake  being  20  miles. 

Fointe  du  Lac,  or  Woodlands,  is  seen  on  the  northern 


THREE    KIVERS. 


:217 


)art  oi  tbc 

an  bour  or 
The  popu- 
iers,  so  that 
of  the  peo- 
arrisoB  con- 
nd  the  com- 
pposite  the 
fertile  ap- 

ree-quarters 
ed  building, 
jnd  on  leav- 

I,  the  distant 

lery  erected 
nd  prepared 
lined  an  en- 
Carleton  at- 
ve  bim  back 
I  them  in  an 
ito  the  hands 

.  Lawrence, 
low  islands. 
I  of  at  Sorel. 


i 


the  shores  at 
pon  the  hori- 
!  river  as  to 

overflowing, 
[like  a  mere 
lies. 

the  northern 


-iliuie,  when  nearly  across  ;  but  it  is  situated  beyond 
the  lake.  A  ridge  of  high  land  continues  on  the  nor.h, 
following  the  course  of  the  river. 

Opposite  Woodlands  is  JVicolet,  9  miles  from  Three 
Rivers.  The  place  is  large,  and  contains  an  English 
and  a  French  church,  togemer  with  a  nunnery,  and  a 
college,  founded  by  the  Catholic  bishop  of  Quebec. 

Three  Rivers,  [Trois  Rivieres,]  Halfway. 

This  is  the  largest  town  between  Montreal  and  Que- 
bec, and  is  96  miles  from  the  former,  and  84  from  the 
latter.  The  streets  are  generally  straight,  and  regu- 
larly built,  though  narrow  ;  and  the  houses,  although 
neat,  are  generally  only  one  or  two  stories  high,  with 
windows  in  the  roofs,  and  being  principally  plastered, 
have  rather  a  dark  aspect,  like  those  of  Montreal.  It 
contains  shops  of  various  sorts,  and  several  inns  of  a 
decent  appearance. 

The  Nunnery  is  in  the  east  part  of  the  town,  and 
has  extensive  grounds  connected  with  it. 

The  Chapel  of  the  Convent  has  a  number  of  pic- 
tures, of  which  the  one  on  the  right  of  the  main  altar 
is  the  best :  Magdalen  weeping.  The  Parish  Church 
is  in  the  south  part  of  the  town.  Two  large  buildings, 
formerly  the  Court  House  and  Jail,  with  the  Nunnery, 
are  the  principal  objects. 

While  the  American  forces  were  on  the  retreat  from 
Quebec,  in  1775,  Gen.  Sullivan  sent  Gen.  Thompson 
down  from  Sorel  to  attack  this  place.  He  went  down 
the  right  bank  of  Lake  St.  Peter,  and  landed  9  miles 
from  the  town;  but  being  discovered  and  misled,  he 
found  Gen.  Frazer  drawn  up  in  order  of  battle,  while 
Gen.  Nosbit  was  sent  to  cut  off  his  retreat ;  and  the 
battle,  which  immediately  commenced,  was  short  and 
disastrous  to  the  assailants,  who  lost  their  commander, 
and  many  officers  and  soldiers,  as  prisoners,  although 
Ihey  had  few  killed.  After  several  hours  we  ap- 
nrnnrh 

f  n 


M 


I, 

■  K> 


u  Ilk  i 


f '-  m 


■i 


o).. 


o 


RO.UTi:    TO  UVIiJiEC. 


Le  Bigneuxj  a  village  on  the  south  side  ot  the  nVei, 
known  by  its  double-spired  church.  It  stands  on  a 
steep  bank,  about  60  feet  lugh,  and  marks  the  com- 
mencement of  the  Richelieu  rapids. 

The  river  here  winds  between  broken  banks,  and 
the  number  of  cottages  is  so  great  as  to  make  the  scene 
more  animating.  A  few  blue,  but  not  lofty,  mountains 
are  seen  down  the  river. 


f 


^i 


Rapids  of  Richelieu. 

The  river,  which  is  about  two  miles  wide,  here 
runs  with  great  velocity,  particularly  the  first  three 
miles ;  but  the  water  is  deep,  and  the  surface  unbro- 
ken, except  near  the  shores,  which  are  lined  with  in- 
numerable loose  round  stones  and  rocks,  extremely 
dangerous  to  vessels  when  they  get  among  them. 
These  rocks  seem  placed  with  much  regularity,  form- 
ing two  ranges,  and  making  the  water  appear  as  if  it 
had  a  gradual  swell  from  both  sides  to  the  middle  of 
the  river.  Although  the  navigation  of  this  part  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  requires  great  skill  and  caution  in  other 
vessels,  steamboats  pass  with  security ;  yet,  on  account 
of  the  force  of  the  current  at  ebb  tide,  even  they  are 
obliged  to  vary  their  hours  of  leaving  Quebec,  in  such 
a  way  as  to  have  the  flood  through  the  rapids.  Ves- 
sels are  often  seen  waiting  at  the  bottom  of  the  rapids 
for  a  change  of  tide,  or  for  a  steamboat  to  tow  them 
up.     The  rapids  extend  about  nine  miles. 

51^.  Antoinef  on  the  south  bank,  is  18  miles  (6  leagues) 
from  Quebec.  The  mountain  seen  towards  the  north- 
east is  that  of  Lorette,  and  the  bank  on  that  side  makes 
a  beautiful  slope  to  tlje  river,  agreeably  varied  by 
cultivated  fields,  interrupted  by  occasional  patches  of 
woodland :  on  the  side  of  the  ridge,  about  midway 
from  the  water  to  the  top,  passes  the  road.  The  south 
shore,  on  the  contrary,  continues  high  and  abrupt,  and 
nearly  perpendicular,  with  innumerable  cottages  peep/- 
insr  over  the  V>row. 


!!!! 


WOLFE  6   COM.. 


Xillf 


t  the  n\'(^h 
lands  on  a 
J  the  corn- 
banks,  and 
:e  the  scene 
,  mountains 


wide,  here 
;  first  three 
•face  unbro- 
ed  with  in- 
,  extremely 
long  them, 
larity,  forni- 
pear  as  if  it 
le  middle  of 
5  part  of  the 
tion  in  other 
,  on  account 
en  they  are 
bee,  in  such 
lids.     Ves- 
if  the  rapids 
tow  them 

(6  leagues) 
IS  the  north- 
side  makes 
varied  by 
II  patches  of 
>ut  midway 
The  south 
abrupt,  and 
:tafi:es  peep/- 


PoitUe  aux  Trembles^  a  village  on  the  norkli  shore. 
The  river  is  about  the  same  breadth  all  along  here, 
viz.  about  two  miles,  although  it  appears  much  nar- 
rower ;  the  depth  is  about  five  fathoms,  and  the  tide 
rises  14  or  15  feet.  Notwithstanding  the  thickness  of 
the  population  on  the  shores,  the  country  is  a  wilder- 
ness only  about  four  miles  back,  being  comprehended 
in  what  is  called  the  King's  Hunting  Ground,  which  ex- 
tends from  Three  Rivers,  40or  50  miles  below  this  place. 

Jacques  Cartier,  30  miles  from  Quebec.  This  is  a 
village  on  the  north  side,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  \hv 
river  of  the  same  name,  which  is  likewise  distinguished 
by  the  name  of  the  first  explorer  of  the  river  St.  Law- 
rence. Here  are  the  remains  of  the  first  church  built 
in  Canada. 

Carouge  Creek,  on  the  north  side.  Here  a  pretty 
view  opens,  for  a  few  minutes,  into  the  interior,  on  the 
north  snore,  showing  the  Indian  village  of  Lorette,  at 
the  distance  of  three  or  four  miles,  with  an  extent  of 
beautiful  land,  and  a  range  of  fine  mountains  in  the 
rear. 

Chaudiere  River  is  a  little  below,  with  a  rock  on 
the  lower  side,  at  its  mouth. 

Looking  down  the  St.  Lawrence,  part  of  Point  Levi 
is  seen,  covered  with  white  buildings,  one  of  which  is 
the  church.  It  is  opposite  Quebec,  which  remains  for 
a  considerable  distance  invisible.  The  banks  rise  to 
a  greater  and  greater  height,  and  present  every  variety 
of  surface. 

Sillery  Cove  is  a  mile  below,  above  which  was 
fought  the  final  battle  between  the  English  and  French, 
in  1759,  after  the  capture  of  Quebec  by  General  Wolfe, 
which  completed  the  conquest  of  Canada.  At  the 
village  are  the  remains  of  the  first  church  ever  built 
in  Canada. 

Wolfe'' s  Cove  is  behind  the  next  point.  This  is  the 
place  where  Wolfe  landed  in  the  night,  and  up  the 
precipitous  bank  he  climbed  with  his  troops,  after- 
wnrd  drawins:    up  his  cannon.     Here  Gen.   Arnold 


^U 


f  ■ 


•1^ 


') 


tui 


UL  LlJEi 


I 


m  % 


y  ^i 


ii 


lit  M 


aftervard  took  up  his  troops,  in  1755  'I  IrerA::  is  a  re- 
markable rock  projecting  from  the  oank,  pA  iho  head 
of  the  cove,  a  littie  to  the  right  of  vvhich  is  seen  a 
road  running  up  ihe  hill,  at  the  place  where  the  troops 
went  up,  when  there  was  nothing^  but  a  footpath. 
The  spot  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  west  of  a  lar'^e 
yellow  house  above  the  bank. 

Cape  Diamond  is  the  abrupt  bluff  in  which  termi- 
nates the  high  land  on  the  north,  and  under  the  oppo- 
site side  of  which  Quebec  is  situated.  It  is  348  feet 
high,  and  the  fortified  lines  on  its  brow  belong  to  the 
city  walls,  and  the  citadel,  vvhich  is  included  by  them. 
The  telegraph  is  raised  on  the  Cavaliers'  Battery,  and 
the  round  buildings  on  the  ridge  are  Martello  towers, 
■which  serve  as  advanced  works  to  the  fortress.  The 
opposite  point  is  Point  Levi ;  and  the  mountains  ot 
St.  Anne  and  Tourmente  appear  many  miles  down  the 
river. 

General  Montgomery  was  killed  just  at  tho  base  of 
Cape  Diamond,  in  attacking  a  blockhouse  on  thn 
shore,  in  1775. 

QUEBEC. 

The  Lower  Town  of  Quebec  begins  near  this  spot, 
and  -tretches  along  at  t'  -  foot  of  the  rock,  while  the 
Uppor  Town  soon  bo, is  to  open  to  view  above, 
thoug'i  the  principal  part  of  it  is  on  the  top  and  the 
opposite  side. 

The  harbour  requires  a  pier  for  its  protection,  on 
account  of  the  extreme  rapidity  of  the  currents  caused 
by  the  tide,  and  particularly  the  ice.  The  subject 
has  been  recommended  to  the  government. 

The  Castle  of  St.  Louis j  or  the  Governor's  House, 
overhangs  the  precipice,  being  built  on  supporters; 
and  makes  a  conspicuous  appearance,  interrupting  the 
city  wall,  vvhich  encloses  the  Upper  Town. 

The  new  Monument  to  Wolfe  and  Mo7itcalm  is  also 
visible  from  some  points  on  iho.  river. 


m 


'    ^1^^  r 


ULEB£C. 


5i\j;  IS  a   'e- 

iho  head 

is  seen  a 

the  troops 

I  footpath, 
of  a  lar'^e 

lich  termi- 
r  the  oppo- 
is  348  feet 
lon^  to  the 
(i  by  them, 
battery,  and 
;llo  towers, 
tress.  The 
nountains  ot 
es  down  the 

th«  base  of 
use   on  thn 


ar  this  spot, 
$,  while  the 
riew  above, 
top  and  th<.' 

'otection,  on 
ents  caused 
he  subject. 

t. 

or^s  House, 

supporters ; 

rupting  the 

n. 

calm  is  nlso 


But  the  current  is  too  swiff  lo  aUow  mucli  lane  ibr 
obsert'ation  befoie  airivin^  at  the  wharf,  where  the 
traveller  will  find  servants  in  waiting  from  the  prin- 
cipal public  houses  in  the  city :  these  are  all  in  thr 
Upper  Town,  the  ascent  to  which  is  intricate  as  well 
as  steep  and  laborious,  so  that  the  stranger  will  want 
their  assistance  as  guides. 

Inns,  Union  Hotel,  Mr.  Lemoine's  Boarding  House, 
Malhiot'.s,4l  St.  John's-street,  La  Fontaine's,  opposite. 

A  book  called  the  "  Picture  of  Quebec"  is  recom- 
mended to  the  traveller. 

The  Lower  Town  is  crowded  and  dirty,  and  con- 
tains no  decent  public  houses.  After  three  or  four 
turns,  you  begin  to  ascend  Mountain-street,  which  is 
veiy  steep  and  laborious,  and  leads  to  a  gate  in  the 
city  wall,  which  is  very  massive,  built  in  the  old  Eu- 
ropean style,  of  solid  stone,  very  thick,  with  narrow 
passage  ways  for  carriages  and  footmen,  and  a  guard 
chamber  above,  with  loop-holes  for  musketeers.  On 
the  right,  after  passing  this  gate,  is  a  battery  of  heavy 
guns  ;  and  the  road  in  that  direction,  by  the  city  wall, 
conducts  to  within  a  few  steps  of  Mr.  Lemoine  s.  On 
the  contrary,  to  go  to  the  other  houses  mentioned,  it  is 
necessary  to  follow  the  street  which  opens  a  little  to 
the  left,  and  leads  into  the  n)idst  of  the  city. 

A  walk  to  the  Esplanade,  in  the  highest  part  of  the 
city,  by  the  wall,  is  very  delightful  at  morning  or  eve- 
ning, as  it  commands  a  fine  view  ;  but  Cape  Diamond 
the  finest  of  all. 

It  is  recommended  to  the  stranger  to  seize  the  first 
pleasant  days  to  make  excursions  to  the  Falls  of  Mont- 
morency, the  village  of  Lorette,  &,c.  which  will  be 
more  particularly  spoken  of  hereafter ;  and  it  will  be 
found  much  better,  on  several  accounts,  to  set  out  as 
early  in  the  morning  as  possible. 

The  walls  of  Quebec  enclose  the  upper  part  of  the 
hill,  and  a  little  of  its  declivity  on  the  north  side  ;  but 
the  space  is  so  small  that  the  buildings  are  extremely 
Towdcf)  tofi^pther,  and  the  streets  are  a«  closely  built 


^^ 


>i  > 


QOO 


i4Li:hEi  . 


V.   \ 


m 


t*  ;! 


,, 


'Ifi 


as  in  the  lai-gest  cities.  Very  lew  of  the  private 
houses  present  any  thing  remarkable,  but  there  are 
many  public  buildings  worthy  of  particular  attention. 
Population,  in  1825,  about  22,000.  A  traveller,  in 
1828,  arrived  here  from  N.  York  (684  miles)  in  75 
hours,  by  regular  route. 

The  French  Parish  Church  stands  on  one  side  of  the 
public  square,  facing  the  barracks,  wliere  is  also  the 
seminary.  The  church  contains  little  that  is  re- 
markable, the  whole  interior  appearing  rather  ordi- 
nary, and  the  pictures  having  little  to  boast  of:  the 
principal  of  them  are  a  Holy  Family,  an  Ascension, 
Crucifixion,  Descent  of  Tongues,  and  Last  Supper. 

The  College,  which  stands  a  little  to  the  right  in 
coming'  out  of  the  church,  is  a  large  stone  building  in 
which  1  considerable  number  of  youth  are  educated 
by  priests,  and  may  be  distinguished  in  the  city  by 
wearing  the  long  black  gown,  sash,  and  cornered  cap, 
common  to  such  institutions  in  Catholic  countries. 

The  Chapel  of  the  Seminary,  which  stands  a  little 
left  from  the  principal  g'^te,  contains  the  best  collec- 
tion of  pictures,  it  is  said,  in  all  Canada  :  beginning 
on  the  right-hand  near  the  door,  is  a  picture  of  the 
Virgin  Maiy  attended  by  angels.  &lc.  ;  in  the  first 
chapel  on  that  side  is  a  picture  of  the  Crucifixion,  over 
the  altar  ;  on  the  right,  the  Baptism  of  the  Ethiopian, 
John's  Baptism,  St.  John ;  on  the  left,  a  portrait,  St. 
Peter  receiving  the  keys,  infant  Saviour,  Devotees, 
&c.  on  the  church  wall,  next  is  a  good  picture  un- 
known, then  the  Ascension,  and  Interment  of  the  Sa- 
viour ;  and  over  the  high  altar,  a  Holy  Family,  and 
r^ove  descending  ;  what  appears  to  be  some  priest's 
dr(  »JVf.  ,  on  the  left  side,  is  the  Descent  of  Tongues, 
and  a!)  Ai»3^el  visiting  a  saint  in  prison,  good  ;  over 
the  altar  irt  the  remaining  chapel,  is  the  Baptism  in 
the  WiMernesr,  with  a  number  of  poor  pictures  ;  and 
in  the  church  are  an  Evangelist,  Wise  Men  presenting 
gifts!,  ike. 

!r  two  arilt  boxes,  one  on  each  side  of  the  hi2:h  altar. 


i'f 


it ' 


CAS  1  Li:   Ul"   sT.    Lot  It. 


ti:i!o 


je  private 
there  are 
'  attention, 
aveller,  in 
iles)  in  75 

side  of  the 
is  also  the 
that   is  re- 
ather  ordi- 
ast  of:  the 
Ascension, 
Supper, 
[he  right  in 
building  in 
re  educated 
Lhe  city  by 
irnered  cap, 
untries. 
ands  a  little 
best  collec- 
:  beginning 
cture  of  the 
in  the  first 
itixion,  over 
)  Ethiopian, 
ortrait,  St. 
Devotees, 
picture   un- 
of  the  Sa- 
amily,  and 
me  priest's 
f  Tongues, 
ood  ;    over 
Baptism  in 
tures  ;  and 
presenting 

hi2:h  altr\r. 


viie  two  skulls,  with  several  human  bones,  placed 
against  red  silk,  which  are  regarded  with  supersti- 
tious reverence,  as  holy  and  perhaps  miraculous  relics ; 
a  lamp  is  kept  constantly  burning  under  that  on  the 
left-hand. 

The  Barracks  are  in  a  large  stone  building  opposite 
the  church,  which  was  formerly  the  Jesuits'  College  : 
it  is  three  and  four  stories  high,  forming  an  angle  like 
an  L,  each  side  of  which  is  about  200  feel  long. 
Here  are  quartered  the  troops  which  garrison  t  city  ; 
they  have  heretofore  consisted  of  two  regiments  of 
infantry,  two  companies  of  artillery,  and  one  of  sap- 
pers and  miners.  The  Exchange,  a  new  edifice,  will 
also  contain  a  Reading  Room. 

Convents.  There  are  two  convents  in  Quebec  ;  one 
of  them  has  about  40  Ursulines,  who  have  a  large 
convent  and  church  near  the  prison,  in  the  west  part 
of  the  city,  and  keep  a  large  school  for  girls.  The 
other  convent  is  lower  down,  and  contains  an  hospital 
for  diseases  of  the  lisjhter  kinds ;  while  the  most  se- 
rious and  severe  are  treated  at  the  nunnery  near  the 
St.  Charles's  River,  about  1^  miles  above  the  town. 
These  institutions,  however,  are  not  now  open  to  vi- 
siters as  they  formerly  were  ;  at  least  it  is  generally 
impossible  to  gain  access  to  them. 

The  Hotel  Dieu  is  an  hospital,  under  the  care  of 
jSuns  ;  and  the  Emigration  Hospital  affords  relief  to 
sick  strangers. 

Tiie  Arsenal  is  near  the  palace  gate,  and  contains 
about  100,000  stand  of  arms,  arranged  with  great  re- 
gularity. 

Tiie  Castle  of  St.  Louis  is  a  large  building,  but  makes 
a  less  imposing  appearance  than  when  seen  from  the 
water.  The  street  beyond  commands  a  fine  view  • 
and  there  are  several  beautiful  terraced  gardens  formea 
on  the  steep  side  of  the  rock,  almost  overhanging  the 
buildings  in  the  lower  town. 

The  fortifications  of  the  city  on  tiie  land  side  are 
>trong,  and  worthy  of  particular  attention  \  as  before 


221 


ULl.BLi*. 


in  lei  est 
morning 


01' 


i  •• 


reniaHiud,  they  may  be  examined  wiih 
taking  a  walk  in  that  direction,  in  the 
evening. 

St.  Louis's  Gate  is  the  highest  city  gate,  and  the 
street  of  the  same  name  conducts  to  it ;  this  leads  to 
the  famous  Plains  of  Abraham.  The  monuments  to 
Wolfe  and  Montcalm  will  be  erected  in  the  Upper 
Garden. 

The  Esplanade  Battery  lies  between  St.  Louis  and 
St.  John's  gates,  and  contains  12  cannon  and  4  mor- 
tars, with  magazines  built  where  they  could  not  be 
injured  by  an  enemy's  shot.  The  ground  slopes  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  expose  a  large  extent  of  country 
to  view  :  the  fine  fertile  plain  beyond  St.  Charles'?^ 
River,  the  beautiful  ridge  of  lands  beyond,  with  the 
villages  of  Lorette,  Chariebourg  and  others ;  the  St. 
Lawreiice  on  the  right,  with  Point  Levi,  the  Isle  of 
Orleans,  and  the  tine  ranges  of  distant  mountains.  The 
mouth  of  the  Montmorency  can  easily  be  discerned, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  about  9  miles 
from  the  city ;  that  is  the  spot  where  the  falls  are  to 
be  seen,  and  the  battle  ground  where  Gen.  Wolfe 
made  an  unsuccessful  attack  on  the  French  Gen.  Dies- 
kau,  before  the  capture  of  the  city. 

Mounting  to  the  parapet  near  the  gate  of  St.  Louis, 
the  plan  of  the  defences  may  be  in  part  discerned, 
even  by  an  unpractised  eye  ;  and  by  descending  and 
passing  through  the  gate,  the  strength  of  the  place  will 
be  better  understood.  The  walls  of  the  city,  the 
bastions,  and  other  works,  are  from  20  to  30  ieet  in 
height,  and  formed  of  stone.  The  path  is  made  to 
turn  several  abrupt  angles,  in  order  to  expose  the  ap- 
proach to  raking  fires.  In  coming  towards  the  gate 
from  the  country,  at  tlie  first  an^le,  the  stranger  is 
brought  to  face  8  cannon,  placed  m  two  rows,  at  the 
second  angle  2,  and  at  tlie  thiixl  2 ;  at  the  fourth  ho 
sees  3  on  the  right  and  3  on  the  left ;  and  at  the  fifth 
finds  himself  in  front  of  the  gate,  which  has  a  gun  on 
its  top.    The  gate  is  of  very  heavy  and  durable  iw- 


lui:  cii'-MiLi.. 


iiiifcieai  by 
morning  or 

te,  and  the 

his  leads  to 

numents  to 

the  Upper 

,  Louis  and 
and  4  mor- 
[)uld  not  be 
id  slopes  in 
t  of  country 
t.  Charles's 
id,  with  the 
irs ;   the  St. 
,  the  Isle  of 
ntaiiis.  The 
2  discerned, 
bout  9  miles 
falls  are  to 
I  Gen.  Wolfe 
1  Gen.  Dies- 

3f  St.  Louis, 
t  discerned, 
cending  and 
le  place  will 
le  city,  the 
o  30  feet  in 
is  made  to 
)ose  the  ap- 
ds  the  gate 
stranger  is 
ows,  at  the 
le  fourth  he 
d  at  the  fifth 
las  a  gun  on 
durable  itw 


suiiry,  and  the  passage  through  it  is  a  dark  arched  way, 
ibout  55  feet  long  ;  it  is  closed  by  two  heavy  doors, 
with  wickets  so  placed  as  not  to  face  each  other. 

Near  the  Hospital  is  part  of  the  old  French  wall, 
about  50  feet  high,  which  contains  gentlemen's  gar- 
dens. 

Tun  Citadel, 

•m  Cape  Diamond,  is  designed  for  a  place  of  imprfg- 
nable  strength.  It  has  been  gradually  progressing  for 
a  number  of  year?,  and  is  not  expected  to  be  soon 
completed.  Admission  may  be  usually  obtained  by 
application  to  the  proper  officers,  and  necessary  in- 
formation may  be  gained  at  the  hotels.  The  British 
government  intended  to  devote  5000/.  per  annum  on 
these  works  ;  but  as  the  money  is  sometimes  delayed, 
they  are  occasionally  exposed  to  some  interruptions. 
In  1827  about  78,000/.  were  still  thought  necessary  to 
render  the  citadel  defensible. 

Most  of  the  works  are  new,  though  come  parts 
of  the  old  have  been  made  to  serve.  They  include 
five  or  six  acres,  on  the  very  summit  of  Cape  Diamond, 
and  extend  to  the  verge  of  the  precipice,  348  feet 
above  the  St.  Lawrence.  There  are  to  be  four  bas- 
tions and  one  demi-bastion,  a  ravelin,  in  advance  of  the 
western  bastion,  and  other  out-works.  The  walls  are 
about  40  feet  high,  and  built  perpendicularly,  of  tine 
hewn  stone  ;  the  ditch  being  blasted  out  of  the  solid 
rock,  and  about  50  feet  wide.  After  making  two  an- 
i^les  on  the  west  of  the  gate,  the  new  walls  join  the 
old. 

The  Casemates.  Entering  the  gates  and  passing 
behind  the  wall,  a  continued  line  of  large  rooms  is 
discovered  following  the  wall,  built  of  substantial 
brick  \vork,  and  arched  over  head  with  such  strength 
as  to  be  bomb-proof.  These  rooms,  which  are  known 
by  the  technical  name  of  Casemates,  nre  about  50 
'''.eX  Ions:.  20  wide,  and  10  or  in  hisjh,  each  to  bo 

u 


'mm 


I 


J22t) 


(41i:hli;. 


,!i. 


ligliteJ  by  a  door  and  two  smnli  windows,  luukin^  in- 
ward, and  pierced  at  the  otlier  side,  with  five  loop 
holes  each,  for  musketry.     Tliese  loop  holes  are  on 


the  new  plan,  narrow  inside,  and  openiiig  with  step 
faced  with  iron,  to  prevent  musket  shot  from  ^lancin 
in.     'I'here  are  to  he  about  10  casemates  :  these  are  a 


fi 


the  land  side,  the 


il  de 


)f  the 


ilence 
cipice  ov<;r  the  w  iter  iiein^  sufticierilly  strongs  to  pr. 
vent  the  attempts  of  an  enemy  in  that  direction.  'I'ne 
casemates  will  communicate  with  each  other  by  fold- 
ing doors,  which  may  be  thrown  open  the  whole 
length  of  the  bomb-proots,  and  will  then  furnish  space 
for  the  whole  garrison  (from  3000  to  5000  men)  to 
parade  at  once. 

The  Subterranean  Passage  leads  from  a  little  stair- 
case in  the  bastion  next  east  of  the  gate,  under  the 
ditch,  to  a  small  out-work  with  two  or  three  casemated 
rooms.  The  stairs  are  so  narrow  as  to  admit  onl}^  one 
person  at  a  time,  and  are  constructed  in  a  spiral  form, 
and  in  the  neatest  manner.  The  passage,  Avhich  is 
about  130  feet  long,  has  also  two  branches  where 
guards  might  be  placed  to  prevent  intrusion.  The 
cooking  rooms,  for  part  of  the  garrison,  are  near  the 
second  bastion  ;  and  over  the  whole  are  to  be  mounted 
lai^e  cannon. 

Brock'' s  Battery,  a  work  of  wood  and  earth,  raised 
during  the  late  war  with  the  United  States,  is  to  be 
partly  retained  and  converted  into  a  Cavaliers'  Bat- 
tery. This,  as  well  as  the  magazines,  barracks,  offi- 
cers' quarters,  &c.  is  within  the  works  ;  and  at  the 
corner  next  the  river  and  town,  is  the  old  Cavaliers' 
Battery,  a  very  heavy  stone  building,  originally  erected 
for  the  palace  of  the  French  governors  of  Quebec  : 
below  it,  at  the  water's  edge.  Gen.  Montgomery  was 
killed.  It  has  dark  vaults,  the  walls  are  six  feet  thick, 
near  the  ground,  and  from  the  Telegraph  on  the  top  is 
one  of  the  finest  views  that  can  be  imagined  :  the 
broad  surface  of  the  St.  Lawrence  lies  below,  and 
stretches  off  far  to  the  ridu  and  left ;  the  whole  citv 


'» '•% 


iAk'L    DIA310KU. 


i2< 


fi 


luulving  ifH 
I  five  loop 
lies  are  on 
with  step 
in  ^lancin 
lese  are  all 
of  the  p-e- 
oii^  to  prv. 
ction.  The 
ler  by  iokl- 
tlie  whole 
imish  space 
UO  men)  to 

I  little  stnir- 
i,  under  the 
e  caseniated 
mitonl}^  one 
spiral  form, 
re,  which  is 
ches  where 
usion.  The 
ire  near  the 
be  mounted 

earth,  raised 
tes,  is  to  be 
valiers'  Bat- 
arracks,  offi- 
and  at  the 
d  Cavaliers' 
lally  erected 
of  Quebec  : 
gomery  was 
ix  feet  thick, 
on  the  top  is 
agined  :    the 
below,  and 
whole  city 


Mi  4uel)ec  is  crowded  together  almost  beneath  you, 
while  Point  Levi,  with  its  white  buildings,  is  seen  op- 
posite, with  a  long  stretch  oi*  lofty  shores.  Turning 
the  eye  in  the  opposite  direction,  the  beautiful  ridge 
of  land,  A^  hich  begins  mnny  miles  down  the  river  on 
the  northern  side,  and  rises  with  a  gentle  swell  from 
the  shore,  covered  wiilj  tfie  richest  and  most  varied 
displ.ty  of  cultivation,  olTers  a  most  delightful  view 
over  an  extensive  and  iertile  region,  beautiful  in  form, 
divided  mto  innumerable  portions,  cultivated  by  a 
dense  and  industrious  population,  and  scattered  with 
their  clustered  dwellings.  On  the  left  appears,  among 
other  villages,  that  of  Lorette,  with  the  Montreal  road 
for  nine  miles  almost  lined  with  houses;  nrid  on  the 
right  that  of  Beaufort,  occupying  the  ridge  of  the  high 
ground,  while  a  little  beyond  it  is  the  chasm  into 
which  the  River  Montmorency  plunges,  with  its  fa- 
mous cataract,  just  before  it  joins  the  St.  Lawrence. 
All  the  horizon  in  that  direction,  and  indeed  from  the 
west  to  the  north,  and  quite  to  the  cast,  is  broken  by 
ranges  of  fine  mountains,  some  of  them  near  and  bold  ; 
and  in  other  places,  between  them,  distant  blue  ridges 
are  disclosed,  three,  four,  or  five  in  succession.  Tso- 
nonthuan  Mountain,  which  ha?  two  summits  and  is 
2000  feet  high  in  the  north-west,  is  the  southern  ex- 
treme of  the  granite  range  reachmg  from  the  Labrador 
coast  to  Lake  Superior.  In  the  south  and  south-west, 
where  an  aperture  is  left,  is  a  distant  and  lower  range, 
scattered  with  cottages.  It  may,  perhaps,  not  be  ha- 
zardirjg  too  much  to  say,  that  no  scene  in  Canada,  or 
the  United  States,  can  boast  of  a  combination  of  ob- 
jects comparable  in  variety  a!id  magnificence  to  those 
here  presented  to  view. 

Cajje  Diamond  derives  its  name  from  the  beautiful 
little  rock  crystals,  which  are  found  in  veins  of  white 
crystalized  limestone,  disseminated  in  the  black  lime- 
stone blasted  out  for  the  works.  The  quartz  stones 
used  in  the  walls  are  very  fine,  and  are  brought  from 
three  miles  above  the  citv.     Of  those  prepared  fov 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  mains;  REIT 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14S80 

(716)  872-4503 


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0 


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UVEBEC. 


<:orncr  stones  of  a  bastion,  near  the  old  governor'? 
bouse,  are  homogeneous  masses  of  granular  quartz, 
weighing  1|  or  2  tons,  or  even  more.  Some  of  the 
crystals  are" perfect  and  brilliant,  though  small. 

There  is  a  long  staircase  of  many  steps,  leading 
from  this  elevated  position  down  to  the  Lower  Town 
by  which  it  was  originally  intended  to  draw  up  heavy 
articles. 


The  Plains  of  Abraham. 

This  interesting  tract  of  ground,  the  field  where 
Gen.  Wolfe  succeeded,  by  a  bold  and  decisive  blow, 
in  capturing  the  city  of  Quebec  in  1759,  lies  at  only 
about  the  distance  of  a  mile,  and  should  not  be  ne- 
glected. Indeed  it  would  be  found  amply  to  repay 
the  trouble,  to  make  a  much  longer  excursion  in  that 
direction,  as  the  road  is  fine  and  the  country  inte- 
resting.* 


'*'  After  the  battle  of  Montmorency,  white  the  English  fleet  lay  up  the 
river,  ut  one  o'clock  in  the  niglit  of  Septoniber  12th,  175U,  Gen.  VVoIfe 
qu;etly  tran8)K)rted  his  troops  from  the  fleet  into  the  boats,  and  cautiously 
paised  down  the  river.  He  intended  to  land  tw^o  or  three  miles  above 
Cape  Diamond,  and  get  possession  of  the  Heights  of  Abraham :  but  was 
drifted  down  so  rapidly  that  he  passed  the  place  without  discovering  it, 
and  then  resolved  to  attempt  a  k  nding  at  Wolfe's  Cove,  just  above  the 
city.  The  shore  is  bold,  and  the  rocks  so  high  and  steep,  that  only  a  few 
sentinels  were  posted  along  the  precipices  and  the  margin.  This  despe- 
rate enterprise,  however,  did  not  discourage  the  leader  or  his  troo|)s;  but 
an  hour  before  daybreak  they  had  effected  their  landing,  and  commenced 
the  arduous  ascent  by  a  narrow,  broken  path,  at  the  top  of  which  was 
stationed  a  captain's  guard.  As  fast  as  the  English  reached  tlie  suuimii 
they  formed  on  the  level  plain. 

At  ten  o'clock  Montcalm  arrived  from  above,  and  a  battle  was  fought, 
which  decided  the  fute  of  Canada.  Montcalm  statiitncd  1500  sharp 
ehootcrsin  front  but  the  British  coolly  stood  their  gumiid  till  the  Frentl. 
were  within  40  yards,  when  they  opened  their  fire,  and  soon  afterward 
terminated  tiie  engagement  with  their  bayonets.  The  place  where  the 
greatest  curuage  was  made,  is  near  the  river's  bank,  where  the  Etiglish 
left  was  closely  ensraged  with  the  French  right.  The  action  lasted  two 
hours,  and  in  it  both  chiefs  received  their  mortal  wounds.  Gen.  Woltij 
was  shot  in  two  or  three  places.  When  hardly  any  signs  of  life  remained, 
news  was  brought  that  the  day  had  derl^ired  for  iln^RritHi  ^•Tite'.i.'" 
said  Up,  "  f  die  rnfit«nf ." 


UOLFE  S   COVE. 


229 


i  governor'sj 
lular  quartz. 
Some  of  the 
small. 

teps,  leading: 
.ower  Town 
raw  up  heavy 


3  field  where 
iecisive  blow, 
9,  lies  at  only 
•uld  not  be  ne- 
mply  to  repay 
cursion  in  that 
i  country  inte- 


Ush  fleet  lay  "P  the 
h,  175U,  Gen.  Wol  c 
oats,  and  cautiously 
r  three  miles  above 
Abraham:  but  was 
ihout  discovering  it, 
:(»ve,  just  above  tlie 
teep,  iliat  only  a  few 
largin.  Thisdespc- 
pror  hislrooiw;  but 

ing,  and  commenced 
le  top  of  which  was 

reached  tlie  suumiii 

a  battle  was  foupht, 
iiaiii.ucd  1500  sharp 
louudtilliboFrentl- 
and  soon  afterward 
The  place  where  the 
c,  where  the  Engli^l^ 
he  action  lasted  i\yu 
ounds.  Gen.  WoU.^ 
iensofliferemauied. 
»^V.  British .  ^'Thm. 


Passing  out  at  St.  Louis's  Gate,  you  observe  a 
number  of  handsome  dwellings  and  gardens,  until 
you  get  some  distance  beyond  the  towers,  when 
you  turn  into  the  Race  Course  on  the  left  side  of 
the  road.  The  foundation  of  a  monument  to  Wolfe 
and  Montcalm  was  laid  in  the  city  in  1827.  The  spot 
where  Gen.  Wolfe  fell  is  near  the  corner  of  the  fenced 
field,  off  towards  the  river.  A  little  east  of  the  place, 
is  the  remnant  of  a  breastwork,  with  several  angles, 
marked  out  by  bushes,  and  commaiiding  a  fine  view. 
The  British  line  was  first  formed  across  the  plain,  and 
ran  near  the  house  by  the  road,  and  the  battle  was 
fought  principally  on  that  ground. 

The  Plains  ot  Abraham  are  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  in  breadth,  extending  a  great  distance  towards 
the  west,  with  a  gentle  slope  on  each  side,  and  so 
smooth  as  to  offer  an  admirable  field  for  the  manoeu- 
vring and  displa3r  of  troops.  From  the  old  breast- 
work, not  only  this  ground  iv  overlooked,  but  the  ship- 
ping in  Wolfe's  Cove,  the  opposite  shore,  the  river  to 
the  next  turn,  &c.  The  spot  appears,  indeed,  infe- 
rior in  elevation  only  to  Cape  Diamond  and  the  middle 
tower. 

Wolfe's  Cove 

is  about  a  mile  further  west,  or  half  a  mile  beyond 
the  large  house  seen  near  the  river's  bank.  A  branch 
of  the  road  leads  off"  to  it  from  the  left,  and  descends 
to  the  shore  by  a  passage  cut  out  long  since  the  time 
of  Gen.  Wolfe,  as  the  cove  is  now  a  great  deposite  for 
lumber. 

The  course  which  he  followed  up  the  bank,  lay 
along  the  channel  of  a  little  brook,  which  leads  off  to 
the  right,  while  the  road  goes  straight  up  the  bank. 


■  4« 


230 


UlJEitKC' 


Si£6£  OF  Quebec  i?j  1775. 


The  scenes  we  have  thus  briefly  recalled  are  not 
the  only  ones  of  a  nnilitary  character  of  which  this 
commanding  and  delightful  plain  has  been  the  theatre. 

In  1775,  soon  after  the  commencement  of  the  Revo- 
lution, the  Continental  Congress  prepared  an  expedi- 
tion against  Canada.  It  consisted  of  two  divisions : 
one  under  Gen.  Mon^omery  came  down  Lake  Cham- 
plain  and  took  St.  John's,  Chambly,  Sorel,  Three 
Rivers,  and  then  proceeded  down  the  St.  Lawrence  to 
this  place.  The  other,  under  Gen.  Arnold,  took  the 
route  through  the  wilderness  of  Maine  for  Qjuebec. 

Arnold  had  10  companies  of  infantry,  besides  2  of 
riflemen,  and  one  of  artillery,  with  a  few  volunteers. 
Thev  proceeded  up  the  Kennebeck,  but  suffered  so 
much  from  fatigue  and  scarcity  that  many  fell  sick, 
and  one  division  returned.  The  remainder,  however, 
reached  Point  Levi  on  the  9th  of  November,  and 
alarmed  the  city.  The  batteaux  had  been  removed, 
and  the  strong  wind  detained  them  from  crossing,  after 
they  had  been  supplied  by  the  Canadians.  The  Eng- 
lish frigate  Lizard  and  several  other  vessels  were  also 
in  the  river.  He  at  length,  however,  effected  a  land- 
ing a  little  above  Wolfe  s  Cove,  and  marching  down 
the  shore  climbed  up  the  rock;sF  at  that  place,  and  sur- 
rounded the  city  without  effect.  He  then  retired  20 
miles  to  Pointe  auz  Trembles,  and  waited  for  Gen. 
Montgomery,  who  arrived,  after  great  trials,  Dec.  1st, 
with  about  300  men. 

The  two  generals  afterward  marched  to  Quebec, 
and  planting  their  mortars  on  the  snow  and  ice,  flred 
into  the  town  with  little  effect.  The  small  pox  broke 
out,  and  the  cold  was  severe  ;  but  the  town  was  at- 
tacked at  four  points  at  once,  in  a  snow  storm,  without 
success.  Montgomery  was  killed,  on  the  shore,  about 
100  yards  from  the  foot  of  the  railway,  under  Cape 


KOAL)    TO   UEAtTORT. 


i\U 


I. 


lUed  are  not 
)f  which  this 
n  the  theatre, 
of  the  Revo- 
d  an  expedi- 
ivo  divisions : 
1  Lake  Cham- 
Sorel,  Three 
:.  Lawrence  to 
nold,  took  the 
for  Qjuebec. 
,  besides  2  of 
iew  volunteers. 
>ut  suffered  so 
many  fell  sick, 
nder,  however, 
November,  and 
been  removed, 
1  crossing,  after 
,ns.  The  Eng- 
issels  were  also 
effected  a  land- 
narching  down 

place,  and  sur- 
then  retired  20 

aited  for  Gen. 

trials,  Dec.  1st, 

led  to  Quebec, 
i/v  and  ice,  fired 
tmall  pox  broke 
[e  town  was  at- 
storm,  without 
|[he  shore,  about 
under  Cape 


Diamond.    One  detachment  was  taken,  and  Arnold 
retired  three  miles  and  intrenched  himself. 


The  Falls  of  Montmorency. 

Hire  a  coach,  a  ^i^,  a  calecbc  or  a  saddle  horse,  and 
se^  out,  if  possible,  early  in  the  morning.  In  a  calecbe, 
you  will  have  the  advantag^e  of  a  ^uide  in  your  driver, 
rass  through  the  Palace  gate  and  a  village  divided 
from  Quebec  only  by  the  wall,  cross  the  bridge  over 
St.  Charles's  river,  which  forms  a  regular  serpentine, 
and  enter  the  beautiful  cultivated  plain  beyond.  A 
Convent  and  hospital  are  seen  about  a  mile  on  the 
left,  and  a  handsome  succession  of  fields  is  observed 
on  both  sides,  divided  by  low  palings.  At  the  dis- 
tance of  a  mile  and  a  half  the  road  passes  several 
country-  houses. 

Ridmg  down  the  coast,  at  a  considerable  elevation 
from  the  river,  many  fine  views  are  presented  of  the 
opposite  banks,  the  isle  of  Orleans,  tne  mountains  of 
St.  Anne  and  Tourmente  down  the  river.  The  dwel- 
lings are  small,  and  the  inhabitants  poor  and  nume^'  us. 
The  chaii,^--!  south  of  the  isle  of  Orleans  is  the  only 
ine  used  by  ships  for  some  yearepast, but  the  northern 
has  been  surveyed  recently.  The  latter  is  that  by 
which  Admiral  Saguenay's  fleet  came  up  with  Wolfe  s 
army. 

Beaufort  is  a  village  principally  composed  of  such 
buildings,  stretching  for  a  great  distance  along  the 
road.  Just  before  entering  it,  some  large  mills  are 
seen  on  the  right,  standing  on  a  stream  which  crosses 
the  path,  and  beyond  there  is  a  natural  pavement 
formed  of  the  horizontal  rock.  There  is  a  small 
church  here,  with  three  steeples,  prettily  situated  on 
the  river's  bank,  with  a  patch  of  grass  and  trees 
around  it ;  but  it  contains  nothing  worthy  of  particular 
attention. 

On  approaching  the  Montmorency,  the  road  turns  to 


232 


UL£B£<i;. 


the  left,  and  then  to  the  ris^ht,  on  an  extensive,  smootli, 
and  gradual  ascent,  part  of  which  was  the  field  of  a 
bloocfy  slaughter,  ruffered  by  a  division  of  Gen.  Wolfe's 
army,  in  1759,  a  short  time  previous  to  his  battle  on  the 
Heights  of  Abraham.  The  position  of  the  armies 
will  be  more  easUy  understood  on  reaching  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  river :  it  is  therefore  sufficient  to  re- 
mark here,  that  the  French  lines  were  bounded  by 
the  nearer  bank,  as  the  remains  of  their  intrenchments 
on  the  left  still  testify  ;  and  that  the  British  came  up 
from  the  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence  on  the  right,  to 
attack  two  of  their  nearest  batteries,  before  the  second 
of  which  they  were  cut  to  pieces. 

Dismounting  in  a  little  wood  and  fastening  the 
horses,  you  may  proceed  along  the  precipitous  oank 
of  the  Montmorency,  by  a  footpath,  to  see  the  falls 
from  this  side.  As  it  is  a  difficult  way,  and  the  view 
more  fine  and  unobstructed  from  the  opposite  side,  it 
is  hardly  worth  the  trouble,  unless  you  have  plenty  ot 
time.  You  have  to  clamber  rocks,  pass  down  a  long 
ladder,  and  stand  on  the  verge  of  an  abyss  into  which 
the  cataract  dashes.  Water  is  drawn  off  here  in  a 
wooden  race,  for  the  supply  of  Mr.  Patterson's  great 
saw-mills,  which  are  worthy  of  beir»g  visited. 

It  is  better,  therefore,  to  follow  the  road  on  foot,  to 
cross  the  bridge  f  where  you  pay  a  sows),  and  enter- 
ing the  fields  on  tne  right,  follow  down  the  course  of 
the  river.  There  are  several  fine  points  of  viev/, 
from  which  the  falls  appear  to  great  advantage ;  but 
on  account  of  the  height  and  steepness  of  the  banks, 
it  is  necessary  to  descend  towards  the  St.  Lawrence, 
and  then  return  by  the  margin,  to  obtain  a  sight  of 
them  from  below. 

On  the  fine  %levated  point  formed  by  the  junction 
of  the  two  rivers,  and  commanding  an  unobstructed 
view  upon  the  St.  Lawrence  for  many  miles  up  and 
down,  with  several  lofty  mountains  below,  the  isle  of 
Orleans  opposite,  Qjuebec  above,  and  the  cataract  close 
at  hand,  the  British  here  took  a  strong  position  in  .hily^ 


IALL6   or   ^lOM'MOliEACY. 


26.S 


5ive,smoolli, 
be  field  of  a 
5en.  Wolfe's 
battle  on  the 
'  the  armies 
n^  the  oppo- 
fficient  to  re- 
bounded by 
ntrenchments 
tish  came  up 
I  the  right,  to 
re  the  second 

fastening  the 
cipitous  Dank 
see  the  falls 
and  the  view 
iposite  side,  it 
have  plenty  ot 
>s  down  a  lon^ 
yss  into  which 
off  here  in  a 
tterson's  great 
isited. 

oad  on  foot,  to 

is),  and  enter- 

i  the  course  of 

oints  of  viev/, 

dvantage;  but 

of  the  banks, 

St.  Lawrence, 

)tain  a  sight  ot 

)y  the  junction 
n  unobstructed 
f  miles  up  and 
low,  the  isle  ot 
e  cataract  close 
>ositionin.lulys 


1769 ;  and  from  this  place  made  a  bold,  but  unsuc- 
cessful attempt  against  their  enemies  on  the  opposite 
side.  The  remains  of  their  intrenchments  are  plainly 
visible  under  our  feet.  The  natural  and  artificial 
strength  of  the  city  combined,  was  enough,  even  in 
those  days,  to  discourage  any  attempt  against  it  from 
the  water ;  and  in  order  to  prevent  an  approach  by 
land,  the  French  occupied  two  strong  positions  at  a 
distance  above  and  below  it :  the  ibrmer  at  Sillery 
River,  the  other  at  the  Montmorency.  Wolfe  here 
made  a  first,  but  unsuccessful  attempt ;  and  afterward, 
b3r  a  still  more  desperate  blow,  accomplished  his 
wishes  at  the  plains  of  Abraham.  For  an  account  of 
the  battle  of  Montmorency,  we  refer  to  the  note.* 
The  best  view  of  the  cataract  is  to  be  enjoyed  from 
the  spur  of  the  rock,  which  projects  from  the  eastern 
shore  :  but  *he  spray,  which  keeps  the  surface  covered 
with  a  coat  of  green,  will  drench  the  clothes  in  a  few 
minutes. 
The  height  of  the  fall  is  said  to  be  240  feet ;  and 

*  Battle  of  Montmorency. 

When  Gen.  Wolfe  came  to  0{)erate  against  Quebec  in  June,  1759,  he 
posted  his  army  on  the  island  of  Orleans  while  tlie  fleet  blocliaded  the 
port.  At  the  end  of  that  month  General  Monckton  was  sent  over  to 
roint  Levi,  and  establisiied  himself  there,  whence  ho  was  able  to  firo 
upon  the  city.  Above  the  river  Montmorency,  the  landing  was  pro- 
tixted  by  tiiu  Marquis  de  Montcalm.  Gen.  Woitie  landed  his  troops  at 
tiie  mouth  of  the  Montmorency  during  the  ni^ht  of  July  31st,  and  erected 
a  battery  on  the  precipice  north  east  of  the  falls,  the  remains  of  which 
arc  to  be  seen.  'J'be  French  were  inti cached  along  the  opposite  bank  ; 
and  Oil  the  31.st  of  July,  Gen.  Wolfe  Bent  his  troops  to  ford  the  Mont- 
morency below  the  falls,  to  storm  their  vv(»rks.  Some  of  Gen.  Monckton'a 
force  frfn.n  Point  Levi  in  crossing  with  boats  got  aground,  and  difficulty 
ensued ;  but  the  landinir  was  made  in  the  afternoon  on  the  beacn  to  the 
right  of  the  saw-milis.  They  came  however  too  late :  for  the  thirteen 
grenadier  companies,  with  200  A  uu'ricans,  wlio  had  landed  before,  refused 
10  wait  or  to  n.'rin,  as  had  been  intended,  in  four  columns,  but  marched 
tumultuously  round  the  rock,  and  rushed  up  hill  in  a  mass  towards  tho 
French  works,  at  some  distance  back  from  the  old  redoubt  oii  the  point, 
which  had  bevn  deserted.  A  warm  fire  however  was  directed  against 
them,  which  cut  down  about  500  men,  and  they  were  obliged  to  retreat 
to  the  redoubt,  whence  they  were  ordered  back  to  the  beach  to  form. 
'i'lie  enterprise  was  then  interrupted  bv  a  severe  storm;  atid  finally 
j^yandoried. 


•o4 


illEBEC. 


the  banks  on  both  sides  below  form  a  precipitous  and 
frightful  precipice,  of  rather  a  curvinjf  form,  of  bare, 
sharp,  slaty  rock,  whose  strata  incline  from  north  to 
south,  and  the  perpendicular  veins  run  nearly  N.  W. 
and  S.  E.  At  low  water  the  Montmorency  may  be 
forded,  with  some  CRution,  where  it  was  passed  by  the 
British  troops  :  but  the  tide  rises  fast  and  high.* 

The  SaW'MillSf  built  by  Mr.  Patterson,  are  situated 
behind  the  western  shore  of  the  ivlontmorency.  They 
are  all  contained  in  one  large  building,  where  the  wa- 
ter enters  at  the  third  story  in  three  channels,  tnoving 
six  gates  in  the  second  stoij,  and  five  in  the  first. 
These  gates  are  collections  of'^saws,  containing  6  or  8 
each,  vniich  cut  up  whole  logs  into  planks  or  boards 
at  once.  The  ratts  of  timber  are  stopped  above  the 
mill,  taken  apart,  and  thus  floated  down  b^  a  little 
canal,  whence  they  are  drawn  up  by  machinery, 
several  logs  being  bound  together  by  a  cnain,  and  laid 
before  the  saws.  Vast  quantities  of  sawn  lumber  are 
generally  to  be  seen  here  on  tl^e  wharves,  readj  for 
shipping.  The  mill  contains  80  single  saws,  besicIoS  5 
circular  ones,  which  perform  their  work  with  great 
rapidity. 

Tha  Baron  Renfrew,  an  immense  timber  ship,  was 
launched  from  the  island  of  Orleans  in  1825.  It  was 
a  built  vessel,  although  of  a  rude  const'uction.  It  was 
305  feet  in  length,  60  feet  beam,  depth  of  hold  35  feet, 
from  the  keel  to  the  taffrail  50,  bowsprit  60  feet,  main- 
mast above  deck,  75  ;  whole,  100 ;  main  yard  72. 
She  was  14  feet  between  decks  ;  the  tiller  was  28  feet 
long ;  chain  cable  120  fathoms  2^  inch  iron;  the  anchors 
weigned  75  and  90  cwt.,  and  her  measurement  was 
5,282  tons.  She  was  loaded  with  timber  in  bulk,  and 
carried  above  6000  tons  of  it ;  but  was  lost  on  the 
coast  ot  France. 


*  A  survey  was  made,  in  1829,  of  the  country  in  the  rear  of  the  existinu 
settlements  and  grants  between  ducbec  and  the  St.  Maurice :  the  tirst 
great  rocky  mountainous  barrier  is  at  a  distance  of  about  five-and-twenty 
leagues  from  the  St.  Lawrence.    In  this  space  are  found  iliree  greaf. 


RUITB    IIIOM   QUEBEC    TO   BOSTON. 


JJ^ 


icipilous  and 
)rm,  of  bare, 
:om  north  to 
leai-ly  N.  W. 
ency  may  be 
passed  by  the 
I  high.* 
1,  are  situated 
•ency.    They 
vhere  the  wa- 
nnels,  moving 
e  in  the  first, 
itaining  6  or  8 
nksor  boards 
ped  above  the 
,wn  hy  a  little 
by  machineryt 
chain,  and  laid 
wn  lumber  are 
rves,  ready  for 
saws,  besiu*.3  5 
ork  with  great 

mber  ship,  was 
1  1826.    It  was 
iiction.    It  was 
of  hold  35  feet, 
1 60  feet,  main- 
main  yard  72. 
Her  was  28  feet 
on;  the  anchors 
lasurement  was 
ber  in  bulk,  and 
i^as  lost  on  the 


herearoftheexistjnu 

St.  Maurice :  the  first 
iboutfive-and-tweniv 
tre  found  three  grei'f 


The  Village  op  Lokette 

may  be  taken  in  the  way  returning  from  Mcntmorenc}% 
if  tnere  should  be  time  enough  remaining  (which  is 
barely  possible),  and  the  ride  alon^  the  high  ridge 
leading  in  that  direction,  will  be  found  delightful. 
Lorette  is  an  Indian  village,  with  a  Catholic  cTiurcb, 
and  the  stranger  may  furnish  himself  with  moccasins, 
belts,  pipes,  &c. 

Route  from  Quebec  to  Boston.  It  is  proposed,  by  the 
state  of  Maine,  to  open  a  road  from  nallowell  up  tlie 
course  of  the  Keni.ebeck  river,  to  tho  Canada  line 
near  Qpebec  There  is  a  communication  kept  up  to 
some  extent  between  the  two  places,  and  considerable 
nunibers  of  cattle  are  driven  every  year  that  way ; 
but  for  a  great  distance  it  is  necessary  to  pass  through 
a  wilderness,  and  in  consequence  of  tiie  want  of 
inhabitants;  there  is  no  shelter  to  be  found  for  man  or 
beast,  for  several  days'  journeys.  The  names  and 
distances  of  the  principal  places  on  this  wild  and  un- 
frequented route,  are  given  below.  When  the  pro- 
posed road  shall  have  been  opened,  it  will  be  found  a 
convenient  way  to  New-England,  for  those  who  do  not 
wbh  to  return  by  Montreal,  and  will  become  peopled 
and  frequently  travelled.  This  is  the  route  by  which 
Gen.  Arnold  approached  Quebec  in  1775. 


Qpebec  to  the  Chaudiere,  or 
Riviere  du  Loup    .     .     .     •     . 


60  miles. 


valleys,  that  of  the  Jacques  Ccrlier,  of  the  St.  Anne,  and  of  the  Batiscan 
livers.  The  settlcnieiits  of  Sionehain,  Valcartier,  and  Fossatnbault  lie 
ill  the  first  valley,  the  other  two  valleys  are  of  considerable  extent,  and 
contain  a  large  qnantity  of  cultivable  lands  of  good  quality.  I'hese 
valleys  are  separated  froin  each  other  by  rocky  highlands.  On  traversing 
the  great  barrier  at  the  head  waters  of  the  Jacques  Cartier  river,  wc 
reach  at  Uie  distance  of  half  a  mile  the  head  waters  of  the  Chicotimi 
river,  which  empties  itself  at  the  port  of  that  name.  This  river  is  well 
known  to  Uie  Lorette  Indians,  who  represent  the  country  tlirougb  which 
'»  passes  a!?  altogether  unsusceptible  of  culture. 


4 

Moose   River 37    97 

forks  of  the  Kennebeck 24  121 

Upper  settlement  on  do 12  133 

Hallowell 67  200 

Boston 170  370 

Another  route  along  the  Penobscot  is  also  to  be  sur- 
veyed by  the  authority  of  the  state  of  Maine. 

Land  route  from  Quebec  to  Alonircal, 
Upper  road* 

(The  pleasanter.) 

1st  post  Lore tte, T6  mile^. 

2d         Jacques  Cartier, 16 

3d         Deschambeaux, 16 

4th        St.  Anne, 16 

5th        Batiscanip, Q 

6th         Chanriplain, 9 

7th         Aux  Cayes, ^ 

8th        Trois  Rivieres,    ....<.    6 

Lozver  Road. 

1st  post,  Cape  Rou8:e,    .......  9 

2d  St.  Augustine, 0 

3d  Pointe  aux  Trembles,    ....  8 

4th         Ecureil, 0 

5th         Cape  Sante, 9 

(Garneau's  inn,  called  ^^the  Three  Sisters,'^ 
is  excellent.) 

6th         Deschambeaux,  &c C  mile-. 

Under  the  administration  of  Gov.  Craig,  in  Canada, 
a  road  was  opened  between  this  province  and  the  pre- 
sent territory  of  Maine ;  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  states 
continuing  it,  a  stage  coach  actually  ran  from  Qjuebec 
to  Boston,which  is  270  miles  distant.  It  was  afterward 
neglected;  and  the  road  became  so  much  overgrown- 
that  it  would  require  clearing  again  to  be  useful. 


itUUTES   FROM   UUKUEC. 


5J.S7 


37    y'" 

24  121 

12  133 

67  200 

170  370 

?o  to  be  sur- 

iine. 

real* 


1.6  mile^. 
16 
16 
16 
0 

0 


.  9 
.  0 
.  8 
.  9 
.  9 


\iers, 


1? 


.  8  mne-. 


laig,  in  Canada. 

Ice  and  the  pre- 
nts  of  the  slate? 
n  iVom  Ciuebec 
t  was  afterward 
uch  overgrown- 
be  useful* 


ROUTES  FROM  QUEBEC. 

Road  from  Qviebec  to  Montreal. 

For  remarks  on  the  advantages  of  travelling  by  land 
on  the  St.  Lawrence,  compared  with  ihose  offered  by 
the  steamboats,  see  page  211,  recollectini):  that  the 
passage  in  the  latter  is  several  hours  longer  up  the 
river  than  down.  'I'he  country  for  some  miles  above 
Quebec  is  more  varied  in  its  surface,  than  that  below 
Montreal ;  and  caleches  and  gigs  may  be  obtained  here 
as  well  as  there.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  regular  stage 
coaches  will  soon  be  established  on  the  road.  On 
page  236  is  an  enumeration  of  the  villages  and  best 
mns.  The  former  ~re  generally  nine  mileh  apart,  but 
the  distances  are  particularized. 

Steamboat.  Engage  an  early  passage  to  Montreal. 
In  1828,  the  shortest  passage  ever  known  was  made  in 
a  steamboat  to  Montreal,  in  about  23^  hours. 

Leaving  th»^  dock,  you  pass  under  Cape  Diamond, 
nearly  at  the  foot  of  which  General  Montgomery  was 
killed  in  1775. 

Wolfe*s  Cove  is  about  a  mile  beyond.     See  page  229. 

For  the  other  places  along  the  St.  Lawrence,  see 
the  map,  and  the  notices  of  them  in  the  route  from 
Montreal  to  Quebec. 

Rapids  of  Richelieu^  p'^ge  218. 

Three  Rivers^  page  21"^. 

Lake  St,  Peter ,  page  216. 

William  Henry,  or  Sorel,  page  215.  , 

Montreal,  page  199. 

See  the  route  from  Montreal  lo  Lake  Ontario  and 
Niagara. 


ii 


X 


2J8 


UOtXU   JfKOM   CANADA. 


Fro3i  Montreal  to  Lake  Champlain,  and 
THE  United  States. 

Those  who  are  returning  by  this  routo,  may  be  ad- 
vistid  to  crosij  to  Longeuii  instead  of  La  Praiiie,  and 
^o  to  St.  John's  by  the  way  of  (Jhanrjbly.  The  distance 
IS  nearly  the  same,  the  pasiiage  of  ihe  river  is  effected 
in  a  good  hor«eboat,  tnc  country  is  much  finer  and 
better  cultivated,  and  the  old  castle  or  tower  of 
Chambly  is  ol"  some  interest  for  its  history.  It  will  be 
necessary,  however,  to  make  particular  arrangements 
for  a  carriage,  and  to  take  every  precaution  to  arrive 
at  St.  John's  in  season  fur  the  steamboat.  From  Mon- 
treal to  Longueil  3  miles,  Longueil  to  Chambly  1:^^ 
thence  to  St.  John's  15. 


I 


Chamblv. 

This  is  a  small  village.  Near  the  middle  of  it 
stands  the  old  fort,  on  a  point,  surrounded  by  a  ditch. 
It  is  an  old  square  buildmg,  perhaps  180  feet  on  each 
side,  with  bastions  at  the  corners,  but  incapable  of 
withstanding  heavy  cannon.  This  fort  was  taken  by 
Majors  Brown  and  Livingston,  in  1755,  who  were  sent 
out  with  a  strong  detachment  by  Gen.  Montgomery, 
while  he  was  besieging  St.  John's.  The  garrison, 
being  very  feeble,  surrendered. 

St.  John's  :  see  page  194. 

In  the  last  war  the  British  had  6000  men  butted  here 
for  a  year  and  a  half. 

Passage  from  St.  John's  to  Whitehall. 

Four  steamboats  run  from  St.  John's  to  Whitehall* 
Thev  go  every  day. 
St.  John's. 
Isle  aux  Noix 10  miles- 


PASSAGE  UP   lAKE   CHAMPLAIN. 


230 


^IN,   AND 


may  be  ad- 

Praiiie,  and 

The  distance 

er  is  effected 

ich  finer  and 

or  tower  of 

jr.     It  will  be 

arrangements 

ition  to  arrive 

From  Mon- 

Cbambiy  1*2, 


middle  of  it 

[ed  by  a  ditch. 

0  feet  on  each 

.  incapable  of 

was  taken  by 

who  were  sent 

Montgomery, 

The  garrison, 


len  hutted  here 

'hitbhall. 
to  Whitehall. 

.    ,  10  miles 


Uouse's  Point 11  miles. 

Chazy 12 

Plattsburgh 16 

Port  Kent 0 

Burlington* 10 

Charlotte,  Essex 15 

Port  Clinton 10 

Dalliba's  Works,  >  q 

Port  Henry,         S 

Chimney  Point 12 

Ticonderoga 15 

Whitehall 25 

For  the  principal  place;;  on  thp  lake,  <;ee  the  Index. 

At  the  time  when  Gen.  St.  Clair  evacuated  Ticon- 
deroga, in  1777,  the  following  arrangements  were  made 
for  retreat.  The  baggage,  hospital  furniture,  sick, 
park  of  artillery,  stores,  and  provisions,  embarked 
under  Colonel  Long,  under  strong^  convoy,  in  200  bat- 
teaux  and  five  armed  galleys.  The  mam  army  went 
via  Castleton,  with  St.  Clair  at  the  head  and  Col. 
Francis  in  the  rear,  and  the  general  rendezvous  was  at 
Ske«^nesborough  (Whitehall.)  A  house  which  took 
fire  on  Mount  Independence  attracted  the  attention  of 
the  British,  who  soon  began  the  pursuit.  Gen.  Frazer, 
with  grenadiers  and  li^ht  troops,  with  Reidesel  behind 
him,  followed  by  land;  while  Burgoyne  cut  throu&;h 
the  boom  and  bridge,  and  sailed  up  Wood  Creek.  His 
gun-boats  and  ships  overt(X)k  tne  American  flotilla^ 
took  two  galleys,  blew  up  three,  and  the  Americans 
set  fire  to  the  rest  and  fiea  on  to  Fort  Anne. 

On  leaving  Ticonderoga,  the  lake  soon  becomes 
much  narrower.  At  about  nine  miles  distance,  the 
Scotch  Farms  are  seen  on  the  western  shore.  They  are 
in  the  township  of  Putnam,  and  present  an  aspect  less 
wild  than  most  of  the  surrounding  scenes. 

Looking  back  on  Ticonderoga  from  this  place, 

*  Prom  this  town  there  is  a  fine  road  to  Bo«^on. 


!t 


24U  KOUTE    FB03I   CANADA. 

Mount  Defiance  appears  at  about  nine  miles  dinance. 
It  descends  on  the  left  to  the  Scotch  Farms,  "which 
are  principally  cleared  land,  and  is  a  good  landmark. 
Beyond  it  is  another  mountain  sloping  like  it.  Ticon- 
deroga  here  appears  to  close  up  the  passage  of  the 
lake,  with  Sword's  Point  on  the  left. 

The  Four  Channels. 

Fourteen  miles  from  Whitehall,  the  lake  suddenly 
contracts  itself  into  four  narrow  passages,  between  two 
ranges  of  mountains,  which  in  some  places  present  per- 
pendicular precipices  ;  and  its  bed,  at  low  water,  ap- 
pears almost  entirely  occupied  by  a  little  meadow  of 
the  brightest  ffre^n,  Ihiuugh  whicu  the  channels  wind 
with  beautiful  serpentines.  The  scene  is  highly  pic- 
turesque, the  rocky  points  on  both  sides  being  so 
abrupt  as  to  seem  as  if  forcibly  parted  by  an  earth- 
Quake,  or  a  very  swift  and  powerful  stream.  Every 
aistant  object  is  entirely  shut  out,  and  the  banks  pre- 
sent a  striking  aspect  of  wildness  and  seclusion. 

Some  distance  beyond,  where  the  creek  enters  a 
small  tract  of  level  ground^  it  passes  between  two 
remarkable  rocks,  with  precipitous  banks  like  walls, 
about  50  feet  high,  like  great  natural  bastions  erected 
to  guard  the  straits. 

A  succession  of  beautiful  little  serpentines  are  passed, 
with  ragged  precipices,  and  many  little  patches  of 
level  ground  on  the  margin  c.  the  water ;  while  on 
the  eastern  side  the  tow  path  accompanies  the  bank. 

< 

South  Bay 

opens  to  the  south,  and  runs  down  five  miles  between 
high  mountains.  Here  the  creek  takes  a  sudden  turn 
to  the  east,  communicating  with  the  bay  by  a  little 
channel  sometimes  scarcely  20  yards  across.  General 
Dieskau  took  this  route  with  his  army,  in  going  towards 
Fort  Edward,  in  1755. 


i  . 


WHITEHALL. 


241 


li^i 


29  distance, 
rms,  which 
\  landmark, 
it.  Ticon- 
isage  of  the 


ke  suddenly 
between  two 
i  present  per- 
fv  water,  ap- 
B  meadow  of 
tiannels  wind 
IS  highly  pic- 
ks being  so 
by  an  earth- 
eam.    Every 
le  banks  pre- 
^clusion. 
;eek  enters  a 
between  two 
^ks  like  walls, 
fstions  erected 

les  are  passed, 
le  patches  of 
(er;  while  on 
lies  the  bank. 


liles  between 
a  sudden  turn 
fay  by  a  little 
toss.  General 
[going  towards 


DetY  are  sometimes  seen  here  in  passing.  On  the 
eastern  side  of  the  ba^,  on  the  mountain,  is  a  natural 
ice-house  about  four  miles  off. 

(A  precipice  r  the  east  is  a  good  mark  of  the  ap- 
proach to  South  i>ay,  in  going  up.) 

The  DeviVs  Pulpit  is  a  singular  cavity  in  the  face  of 
a  bare  precipice  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  creek,  at  a 
considerable  elevation,  in  the  form  of  a  wedge,  and 
so  regular  as  to  seem  a  work  of  art,  although  probably 
made  by  the  falling  of  a  mass  of  the  rock. 

Distant  mountains  open  to  the  view  in  front,  as  we 
proceed,  with  ranges  of  willows  on  the  shore. 

7%«  Elbow  is  a  narrow  part  of  the  creek,  with  two 
short  turns,  through  which  the  passage  requires  a  very 
exact  helm. 

East  Bay 

strikes  off  at  the  first  bend,  and  makes  up  five  miles, 
along  a  romantic  country.  A  sugar-loai  hill  will  be 
observed  at  a  little  distance  on  the  right,  which  rises 
above  Whitehall,  and  makes  the  approach  to  that 
place  quite  picturesque. 

WHITEHALL. 

On  the  top  of  a  rock  over  the  harbour  was  formerly 
a  battery,  and  in  the  town  a  blockhouse.  Numerous 
boats  and  great  quantities  of  lumber  are  usuall^r  seen 
here,  as  the  Champlain  or  Northern  canal  begins  at 
the  bridge,  where  are  two  locks,  with  a  sluiceway, 
and  a  rocky  channel. 

Inns. — Rock's  and  Wing's. 

The  heights  at  this  place  were  occupied  by  Bur- 
goyne's  right  wing,  while  he  was  preparing  to  march 
towards  Saratoga ;  his  centre  was  iorrned  by  Gen. 
Frazer ;  the  Brunswickers,  on  the  left,  rested  on  the 
river  of  Castleton ;  and  the  Hessians  were  at  the  head 
of  East  Bay. 


241^ 


ROUTE   FROM   CANADA. 


Roads. — Stage  coaehes  go  south,  on  the  arriyal  ot 
the  steamboat  in  two  directions  :  one  on  each  side  oS 
Wood  Creek  and  the  Hudson  river.  That  on  the  west 
side  is  recommended  to  those  who  are  going  directly 
on  to  Albany,  as  it  passes  along  the  route  of  the  Cham* 
plain  canal,  by  the  "  Surrender  Ground,"  and  near  the 
"  Battle  Ground  of  Bemis's  Heights."  Coaches  also 
go  to  the  Spring. 

The  survey  of  a  canal  route  from  Rutland  to  White- 
hall, N.  Y.  gives  a  descent  of  211  feet,  and  an  ascent 
of  274— the  distance  is  24 '  miles.  The  height  of  land 
is  west  of  Pouitney  river.  7  miles  from  Whitehall. 

Road  t<u  Boston,  178  m. 
through  Walpole  :  See  "  Indexy 

To  Albany,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Hudson^ 

79  m.  . 

West  Granville  .    .     .    .     .     .11  miles. 

East  Granville* 3 

Hebron 9 

Salem 8 

Cambridge 16 

Pittstown 13 

Lansingburgh 10 

*  Saddle  Mountain,  whose  lofty  rid?e  will  be  seen  from  almost  every 
point  in  this  vicinity,  is  said  to  he  4,060  feet  above  the  ocean,  and  3,800 
feet  higher  than  the  site  of  Williams'  College.  U  derives  its  name  from 
its  resemblance  to  a  riding  saddle.  Snow  lies  late  upon  its  top,  where 
ihe  climate  is  so  cold  as  to  admit  only  a  ntiiited  growth  to  the  spruce, 
yellow  birch,  beech,  fir,  mountain  ash,  and  other  trees  which  are  there 
to  be  found.  Vegetation  is  there  more  than  a  month  behind  the  valleys 
below.  An  excursion  to  the  summit  is  not  very  difficult,  and  affords  fine 
views.  The  Catskill,  Watchusett,  Monadnoc,  and  Mount  Holyoke  are 
visible. 

Jl  Mineral  Spring  is  situated  about  1 J  miles  north  of  the  College  in  Wil- 
liamstown,  and  a  few  hundred  yards  east  of  the  Albany  road.  It  is  a 
tepid  water  and  resembles  that  of  New-Lebanon— temperature  75  Fah- 
renheit. Mr.  Weal's  house  affords  accommodations,  baths,  &c.  to  lodgers . 
and  the  sprint;  has  proved  beneficial  in  cutaneous  case*.  *" 


KOAl)   FROM  WHITEHALL   TO   ALBANY.        *il43 


le  arrival  of 
?ach  side  of 
;  on  the  west 
>ing  directly 
►f  the  Cham- 
and  near  the 
loaches  also 

,nd  to  White- 
md  an  ascent 
leigiht  of  land 
AThitehall. 


the  Hudson^ 


miles. 


In  from  almost  every 
the  ocean,  and  2,800 
»rive8  its  name  from 
r'upon  its  top,  where 
Irowth  to  the  spruce, 
Vees  which  are  there 
[h  behind  the  valleys 
Wult,andQflfordstme 
Mount  Holyoke  aro 

ofthe  College  in  W»^• 
Albany  road.    It  to  a 
emperature  75  F^ 
baths,  &c.  to  lowers. 


'-    Troy 3  (see  pa^re  50) 

Albany 6  (see  p.  39  &  46) 

To  Albany,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Hudson^  68  ?n. 

Fort  Anne 12 

Fort  Edward 9 

Here  a  coach  passes  to  Saratoga  Springs, 

Fort  Miller 8 

Schijylersville     ......     6  fseepaffel59^ 

British  Lines 7  (see  page  136j 

Passing:  Bemis^s  Heights, 

Stillwater 8 

Boroug^h 3 

WaterTord  8^ 

New  Mohawk  Bridge      .    .     .     l(seep.54&129) 

The  road  accompanies  the  course  of  Wood  Creek, 
•which  is  dammed  and  used  for  a  canal,  to  which  its 
narrowness  and  depth  give  it  a  strong:  resemblance. 
This  creek  is  famous  in  the  history  of  the  operations 
in  this  reffion  during  the  Revolutionary  and  French 
wars ;  and  after  repeated  exertions  to  clear  it  of  the 
logs,  &c.,  by  which  it  was  obstructed,  it  bore  the 
troops  sent  against  Canada,  &,c.,  which  often  passed  by 
this  route,  from  the  days  of  Queen  \nne.  The  scenery 
is  ae:reeable,  though  rough  ;  and  there  is  little  cultiva- 
tion off  the  road 

Half  a  mile  north  of  the  village  of  Fort  Anne,  Wood 
Creek  makes  an  elbow  to  a  ledije  of  rocks,  so  near 
that  there  is  but  little  space  for  the  road  between. 
Here  Col.  Sterry  was  overtaken,  in  the  retreat  from 
Ticonderoga,  in  1777,  by  Burjroyne's  troops,  and  an 
engagement  took  place,  memorials  of  which  are  occa- 
sionally found  in  the  soil  to  this  day.  A  little  south, 
on  the  brow  of  the  hill,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the 
stage  house,  stood  Fort  Anne,  in  the  Revolution. 

The  old  fort  of  the  same  name,  built  many  years 
previously,  and  known  in  the  French  wars,  was  about 


244 


ROUTE   FROM  CANADA. 


half  a  mile  south  of  the  village,  on  a  gentle  eminence 
a  little  east  of  the  road,  where  some  remains  of  the 
old  intrenchments  are  still  to  be  seen. 

The  remains  of  Burgoyne's  Road  begin  about  two 
miles  south  of  Fort  Anne,  at  the  ^oot  of  a  hill,  and  are 
traced  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile,  near  the  present 
road  to  a  wood.  It  was  formed  of  logs,  ana  found 
necessary,  to  render  the  country  passable  with  his 
cannons  and  baggage  wagons.  The  labour  necessary 
for  its  formation,  superadded  to  that  of  clearing  Wood 
Creek  of  the  obstructions  which  Gen.  Schujner  bad 
thrown  into  it  after  the  retreat  of  the  Americans,  was 
one  great  cause  of  the  delay  of  the  British  army,  on 
this  part  of  the  road — a  aelay  which  allowea  the 
people  time  to  resume  their  spirits,  and  the  officers  to 
lay  plans,  obtain  resources,  and  prepare  for  the  san- 
guinary scenes  at  Bemis's  Heights  and  the  surrender 
at  Saratoga. 

French  Mountain  opens  to  view  a  little  beyond,  with 
a  succession  of  high  grounds  in  the  direction  of  South 
Bay,  Lake  George,  &c. 

About  half  a  mile  above  Fort  Edward,  stands  an  old 
tree,  which  marks  the  place  where  was  perpetrated 

The  Murder  op  Miss  M*Crea. 

Miss  M*Crea  lived  in  the  village  of  Fort  Edward. 
In  the  Revolutionary  war,  a  young  man  named  Jones, 
to  whom  she  was  betrothed,  having  attached  himself 
to  the  English  cause,  and  joined  their  forces  in  Canada, 
was  invested  with  a  captain's  command  in  Gen.  Bur- 
goyne's  army.  After  the  retreat  of  the  Americans 
from  the  lake,  and  while  the  British  were  approaching, 
he  sent  a  party  of  Indians  to  Fort  Edward  to  bring 
his  intended  bride  to  him,  that  he  might  secure  her 
safety.  She  was  very  unwilling  to  proceed  with  her 
savage  conducters  on  the  road  towards  Fort  Anne ; 
and  had  gone  only  half  a  mile  when  the  Indians 
stopped  to  drink  at  a  spring  which  still  flows  by  the 


BAKRK  S   FALLS. 


245 


le  eminence 
lains  of  the 

1  about  two 
hill,  and  are 

the  present 
s,  and  found 
)le  with  his 
lur  necessary 
earing  Wood 
ichujr^er  had 
lericans,  was 
lish  army,  on 

allowed  the 
the  officers  to 
J  for  the  san- 
the  surrender 

5  beyond,  with 
ction  of  South 

I,  stands  an  old 
perpetrated 

Jbea. 

Fort  Edward. 
I  named  Jones, 
[tached  himself 
}ces  in  Canada, 
d  in  Gen.  Bur- 
[the  Americans 
l-e  approaching, 
[ward  to  bring 
ht  secure  her 
jeed  with  her 
Ids  Fort  Anne; 
fen  the  Indians 
hi  flows  by  the 


way  side.  While  here  they  were  met  by  another  party 
of  Indians  despatched  to  hasten  them  on.  Those  who 
came  last  attempted  to  take  her  under  their  charge  ; 
but  the  others,  being  determined  not  to  give  her  up 
alive,  bound  her  to  a  tree  that  is  yet  standing  near  the 
spring,  and  shot  her  dead  with  their  muskets.  Locks 
of  her  hair  were  borne  to  her  lover  to  prove  that  the 
Indians  had  performed  what  they  considered  their  duty 
to  their  employer. 

This  story  rang  through  the  country ;  and  it  was 
reported  that  Gen.  Burgovne  encouraged,  or,  at  least, 
permitted  the  murder,  in  indignant  terms  he  denied 
the  charge ;  and  there  appears  no  probability  that  he 
had  the  least  knowledge  of  it.  He,  however,  was 
justljr  chargeable  with  a  great  offence  against  humanity, 
in  bringing  tribes  of  savages  in  his  tram,  whose  barba- 
rity he  could  never  be  sure  of  restraining. 

Fort  Edward. 

This  village  was  built  in  the  neighbourhood  of  a 
fort  raised  during  the  wrir  of  1755,  for  the  defence  of 
this  point  of  the  river.  It  was  first  called  Fort  Lyman 
after  Gen.  Lyman,  of  whom  we  have  already  had 
occasion  to  make  honourable  mention  at  Lake  George, 
This  spot  was  formerly  called  the  First  Carry mg" 
PI  ace,  being  the  point  where,  in  the  expeditions  against 
Canada,  the  troops,  stores,  &c.,  were  landed  and  taken 
to  Wood  Creek,  a  distance  of  12  miles,  where  they 
were  again  embarked. 

Baker's  Falls,  at  Sandy  Hill, 

are  worthy  of  particular  attention,  and  are  r  en  to 
great  advantage  from  some  parts  of  the  bank.  The 
whole  descent  of  the  river  at  this  place  is  about  75 


^4U 


NEW-YOBK   TO    NEW-ENCLAND. 


HI 


Fort  Milleb. 

The  village  still  retains  the  name  of  a  fort  erected 
on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  in  former  times.  It  was 
a  work  of  insigniticant  size,  situated  on  the  bank  and 
near 

Miller's  Falls. 

The  descent  of  the  river  here  is  rapid,  and  over  a 
broken  channel.  The  falls  were  formerly  considered 
impassable  with  safety,  until  Gen.  Putnam  performed 
it  while  stationed  at  Fort  Miller,  in  the  French  war. 

The  Great  Dam. 

Above  Fort  Edward,  a  laige  and  expensive  dam  has 
been  built  across  the  river,  and  a  canal  cut  along  the 
bank  to  open  a  passage  for  boats.  [The  dam  is  900 
feet  long.J 

[For  places  on  any  route  selected  by  the  travellery 
see  the  Index.] 

TOUR  OF  NEW-ENGLAND. 

To  Travellers  going  Eastward  from  J^ew-York, 

It  is  recommended  to  the  stranger  who  is  travelling 
eastward  to  see  the  country,  to  determine  on  some  plan 
for  his  journey  before  setting  out.    A  stage  coach* 


*  The  coach  sets  off  for  New -Haven  every  morning  at  8  o'clock,  from 
Jaques's  stage  office,  in  Cortlandt-street,  passing  through  Harlsrm  on 
Manhattan  Island,  West  Chester,  Kast  Chester,  New  Rochelle,  Mama- 
ronec,  and  Rye,  in  ihe  s;ate  of  New- York ;  and  Greenwich,  Stamford, 
Dari^^n,  Norwalk,  Fairfield,  Bridgeport,  Stratford,  Milford,  and  Orange, 
in  Connecticut. 

In  Harliem,  the  road  passes  near  the  East  river,  and  gives  a  view  of 
Hell  Gate. 

Beyond  Morricfsanla,  the  estate  and  mansion  of  the  Hon.  Gov.  Morris  is 


LA8T   ItiVEU. 


2il 


goes  ev^ry  morning  to  Connecticut,  and  onward ;  but 
this  is  not  the  most  agreeable  route.  Steamboats  go 
from  New  York  to  the  following  places  on  the  northern 
shore  of  Long  Island  Sound :  Norwalk,  Stamford, 
Stratford,  New-Haven,  Connecticut  river  (and  up  that 
to  Hartford),  New-London  (and  Norwich),  Newport 
(and  Providence). 

EAST  RIVER. 

Leaving  New-York,  in  any  of  the  East  river  steam- 
boats, the  traveller  has  Brooklyn  on  the  right  (now 
the  third  town  for  size  in  the  state,  and  strictly  a  sub- 
urb of  the  capital). 

The  JVavy  Fara,  just  beyond. 

The  Railway t  for  ships,  is  above,  on  the  west  side. 

seen  on  the  right :  one  of  the  finest  for  lastcfulncss  and  extent  in  this 
part  of  the  country.    (See  Battle  of  White  Plains,  page  22.) 

r*-  the  town  of  Horseneck,  33  miles  from  New- York,  is  a  steep  hill 
descending  towards  the  north,  down  wliicii  Gi^no'-al  Putnam  once  eilected 
his  escape  from  several  British  oflicers  a:id  soidiers  during  the  revolu- 
tionary war,  when  returning  from  a  Hcout.  IK;  drove  hi»  horse  hastily 
down  the  rocky  hill  side,  a  little  east  of  (ho  road,  and  near  the  fence,  and 
savi'd  so  much  distance  as  to  elude  his  pursuers. 

West  Chester,  and  the  country  about  it,  were  at  that  period  neutral 
ground ;  and  Mr.  CcHiper,  the  novelist,  has  made  them  the  scene  of  hi» 
popular  talc— "The  Spy." 

In  the  town  of  Fairfinld,  53  miles  from  New- York,  a  mile  or  two  be- 
fore reaching  the  villaire,  is  a  low,  level  piece  of  ground,  on  the  right- 
hand  side  of  the  road,  which  was  formerly  an  ahnost  impenetrable 
swamp,  and,  at  an  early  period  of  our  history,  was  the  scene  of  a  bk>ody 
slaughter.  It  was  hither  that  the  remains  of  a  powerful  and  terrible 
nation  of  Indians,  called  Pequods,  having  fled  from  their  country  about 
New-London  and  Groton,  after  the  destruction  of  their  fort  at  Mystic 
by  Capt.  Mason,  in  1636,  were  either  killed  or  taken  captive.  This  was 
their  last  and  total  defeat,  and  extinguished  their  name  as  a  nation. 
Much  of  the  ground  has  been  cleared  in  modern  times ;  and  some  relics 
have  been  found  to  confirm  the  traditions  of  the  neighbourhood. 

This  place  was  burned  by  the  British  in  the  Rerolution.  Danbury,  an 
inland  town,  was  also  burned,  with  extensive  public  storef,  and  an  action 
was  fought  in  which  Gen.  Wooster  fell. 

On  the  east  side  of  Housatonnuc,  or  Stiatford  river,  a  mile  or  more 
above  the  bridge,  was  once  a  fort,  built  by  the  Indians  of  the  place,  to 
secure  themselves  against  the  Mohawks,  who  had  subjugated  most  of 
the  country  on  the  western  side  of  Connecticut  river  before  the  arrival 
of  the  English.  It  has  been  proposed  to  make  a  canal  along  the  course 
of  the  Housatonnuc. 


N, 


'i4B 


.NEW-VOUK    TO    x\EW-Li\(;LAlNJ 


The  old  Penitentiary  and  Fecf.r  Hospital  are  just 
above,  on  the  shore. 

BlackweWs  Island. — The  new  Penitentiary  has  been 
erected  on  this  insulated  spot,  which  offers  mai^y  ad- 
vantages for  such  an  institution.  The  building  is  about 
1000  feet  from  the  south  end  of  the  island.  Its  foun- 
dation, which  is  solid  rock,  is  about  20  feet  above 
high  water  mark.  The  buildings,  which  is  200  feet  in 
length  by  50  in  breadth,  will  contain  240  cells,  each 
3^  feet  by  7,  and  ..eparated  by  a  partition  2-.  feet  thick. 
Opposite  each  cell  there  is  an  aperture  in  the  outer 
wall,  through  which  the  inmate  will  receive  a  suffi- 
ciency of  fresh  air.  The  interior  is  upon  the  plan  of 
the  State  Prison  at  Singsing,  with  the  exception  that 
the  gallery  around  the  cells  is  of  iron  instead  ol  wood, 
the  ascent  to  which  is  by  a  geometrical  staircase.  The 
doors  to  the  cells  are  all  of  iron — indeed,  the  only 
wood  in  the  building  is  in  the  roof,  which  may  even 
be  burned  off  without  the  least  danger  to  the  rest  of 
the  building.  The  stone  of  which  the  walls  and  rioors 
are  made,  is  the  common  gneiss^  and  was  all  quarried 
on  the  island  and  hewed  by  the  convicts.  The  lim% 
used  in  constructing  the  prison,  was  also  burned  on  the 
island.  Four  sentinels  are  placed  on  elevated  platforms 
in  different  parts  of  the  island,  who  are  allowed  no 
intercourse  either  by  word  or  sign  wit:  he  prisoners. 
They  are  marched  rank  and  file  to  their  meals  in  a 
temporary  building  prepared  lor  the  purpose,  where 
they  also  dispose  themselves  for  sleep  at  the  word  c; 
command,  and  sentinels  march  between  their  ranks 
during  the  night.  No  spiritous  liquor  is  allowed  to  be 
brought  upon  the  island.  Four  excellent  springs  of 
water  afford  thern  drii.k. 

The  island  is  1~  miles  in  length  and  about  600  feet 
in  width,  and  will  yield  abundance  of  vegetables.  It 
was  the  design  of  the  Corporation  in  purchasing  this 
island,  to  make  it  the  seat  of  punisl  ^nent  in  all  it? 
forms.  At  the  extremity  of  the  island,  opposite  the 
Penitentian\  will  be  another  for  females — and  betwee': 


/■ 


:sEw-iLvvB:)f. 


^4!> 


oiial  are  just 

iary  has  been 
ers  mai^y  ad- 
Iding  is  about 
nd.    Its  foun- 
0  feet  above 
is  200  feet  in 
:40  cells,  each 
2  a  feet  thick, 
e  in  the  outer 
eteive  a  suffi- 
lon  the  plan  of 
exception  that 
stead  ol  wood, 
tairca?e.    The 
ieed,  the  only 
lich  may  even 
r  to  the  rest  of 
vails  and  tioors 
'as  all  quarried 
^ts.     The  lim^ 
)  burned  on  the 
vated  platforms 
ire  allowed  no 
he  prisoners, 
leir  meals  in  a 
)urpose,  where^ 
at  the  word  d 
en  their  ranks 
s  allowed  to  be 
ent  springes  of 

about  600  feet 
vegetables.  It 
purchasing  this 
,nent  in  all  it? 
d,  opposite  the 
-and  betwee'? 


this  ana  the  overseer's  house  on  each  side,  will  be  two 
other  buildings  for  vagrants  of  both  sexes. 

At  Hell  Gate,  numerous  objects  present  themselves 
on  entering  the  bay.  On  the  distant  high  ground,  westy 
is  seen  the  Lunatic  Asylum  ;  a  white  blockhouse  on 
the  hill  on  the  east  side ;  below  hy  an  old  fort  by  the 
water;  and  a  number  of  handsome  country  houses 
along  the  green  shore  on  the  left.  The  first  ol  these 
is  Commodore  Chauncey's,  next,  Mr.  Schermerhorn's, 
then,  Messrs.  Prime's,  Astor's,  &c.  The  surface  of  the 
river  is  broken  by  several  rocks,  and  by  the  agitation 
of  the  water,  particularly  at  the  whirl  called  the  Great 
Pot,  a  little  north  of  the  fort,  and  the  rapid  current  on: 
the  opposite  shore  known  by  the  name  of  the  Hog's 
Back.  In  coming  from  the  north,  almost  the  first  view 
of  New- York  is  here  presented,  between  the  western 
shore  and  Blackwell's  Island,  with  a  shot  tower  on  the 
right. 

New-Haven. 

Tontine  Hotel.  Stage  House  (Stone's).  Several  pri- 
vate boarding-houses.  This  is  decideuly  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  towns  in  the  United  States.  The  soil 
is  not  very  ^ood,  and  the  situation  is  low ;  the  town 
(or  rather  city)  is  laid  out  in  squares,  with  straight  and 
broad  streets,  and  the  elevated  ground  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood renders  the  approach  very  fine  from  almost 
every  direction.  It  stands  at  the  head  of  a  spacious 
bay,  with  a  lighthouse  on  the  eastern  point,  a  small 
fort  on  the  shore,  another  on  Prospect  Hill,  and  two 
Bluffs,  called  East  and  West  Rocks,  2  or  3  miles  behind 
the  town.  A  more  distant  peak  is  seen  between  them, 
which  is  Mount  Carmel.  The  long  wharf  is  three 
quarters  of  a  mile  in  length.  The  steamboats  stop  at 
the  bridge,  where  carriages  will  be  found  in  waiting 
to  take  travellers  to  the  centre  of  the  town,  which  is 
more  than  a  mile  distant. 

On  tb«  shore,  near  the  bridge,  is  a  large  building  in- 

Y 


./ 


sau 


HOWE  IN   CONNECTICUT. 


tended  for  a  steamboat  hotel,  but  now  occupieii  as  a 
School  for  the  education  of'  Boys,  by  the  Messrs. 
Dwieht.  The  system  resembles  that  of  the  Hound 
Hill  School  at  Northampton.  The  streets  of  the  town 
are  regular  easant,  forming  squares,  one  of  which 

is  a  green  surrounded  by  rows  of  elms,  with  three 
churches  and  the  new  State  House  in  the  middle,  and 
the  College  buildings  occupying  the  western  side,  pre- 
sentir)g  a  scene  probably  not  equalled  by  any  town  of 
this  size  in  the  United  States.  The  abundance  of  fine 
trees,  the  neatness  and  beauty  of  the  dwellings,  the 
^ood  society  of  the  place,  and  the  distinguished  posi- 
tion it  holds  as  a  seat  of  learning,  render  New-Haven 
the  resort  of  a  great  number  of  strangers  during  the 
travelling  season,  and  the  temporary  residence  of  not 
a  few. 

CkmnecticiU  School  Fund. — This  fund  now  amounts 
to  $1,882,251,  or  nearly  two  millions  of  dollars.  By 
means  of  this  fund,  tne  government  of  the  state  is 
enabled  annually  to  return  to  the  citizens  nearly  twice 
the  amount  withdrawn  in  taxes.  It  enables  parents  to 
educate  their  children  almost  gratuitously. 

There  is  a  Hopkins's  Grammar  School  in  the  town. 
and  a  number  oi'  Boarding  Schools  for  young  ladies, 
with  inslructers  in  every  branch  of  useful  and  orna- 
mental education.  A  nourishing  Lancasterian  School 
in  this  place  contains  about  300  boys. 

Yale  College. — This  institution,  however,  is  the  prin- 
cipal object  which  will  attract  the  attention  ot  the 
stranger.  It  was  founded  in  1701,  and  first  located  at 
Killing  worth,  then  removed  to  Say  brook,  and  after  a 
few  years  permanently  fixed  in  this  town.*  The  first 
building  was  of  wood,  and  stood  near  the  corner  of 
College  and  Chapel-streets.  There  are  now  four 
buildings  for  students,  each  containing  32  rooms ;  a 
Chapel,  with  a  Philosophical  chamber  and  apparatus, 


*  The  expense  of  tuition,  room,  &c.  for  a  year,  is  about  $50— of  board 
in  Commons,  about  $75..  *         -    '  . 


VALE    COLLEGE. 


idl 


ibout$50— pfbqarfl 


Till  Observatory  and  a  Lyceum,  with  recitation  rooms 
and  the  library.  In  the  rear  are  the  Gymnastic  appa- 
ratus, the  Commons  Hall,  in  a  small  building  with  the 
splenrlid  Mineralo^ical  Cabinet  above,  which  is  the 
i'lncst  collection  of  the  kind  in  the  United  States,  lately 
purchased  from  Colonel  Gibbs  of  New- York.  In 
another  building  is  the  Chemical  Laboratonr,  where 
Professor  Siliiman  delivers  his  lectures.  The  insti- 
tution contained,  in  1829,  496  students,  distributed  as 
follows  : — Theological  Students,  49  ;  Law  Students, 
21;  Medical  Students,  61;  Resident  Graduates,  6; 
Seniors,  71;  Juniors,  87  ;  Sophomores,  95 ;  Freshmen, 
106. 

An  Observatory  has  recently  been  erected,  after  the 
model  of  the  Tower  of  the  Winds  at  Athens,  and  in 
like  manner  surmounted  with  a  Triton. 

Next  north  of  the  College  is  the  house  of  President 
Day,  and  t!ie  professors  have  pleasant  residences  in 
the  town.  The  new  State  House  and  the  churches 
on  the  green,  present  a  remarkably  fine  appearance  ; 
with  the  College  buildings  and  numerous  elegant 
houses  around  it. 

The  Medical  Institution  is  at  tb  i  north  end  of  Col- 
lege-street. Like  many  other  buildings  in  the  place, 
it  is  of  rou^h  stone,  covered  with  plaster.  The  canal 
passes  just  in  the  rear. 

In  1826  there  were  336  students  who  received  de- 
grees in  all  the  colle&^es  of  New-England.  The 
number  of  students  in  all  the  Medical  Schools  in  the 
United  States  in  that  year  was  about  1700. 

Colleges  in  Neip:- England* — There  were  1399  stu- 
dents in  all  the  l^^ew-England  Colleges  in  1827,  of 
whom  130  belonged  to  Maine,  131  to  New-Hampshire, 
146  from  Vermont,  431  from  Massachusetts,  and  196 
from  Connecticut. 

[Acco"dinff  to  the  Registers  of  the  several  States, 
there  are  in  New-England,  exclusive  of  Rhode  Island, 
1,633  ministers  of  the  Gospel,  viz.  862  Congrega- 
tionalistp,  605  Baptists,  167  Methodists,  72  Episco- 


ii5:si 


UOUTE  IN   OOKMECTICliT. 


palians,  15  Presbyterians,  85  Freewill  Baptists,  Hi 
Universalists,  and  6  Christ-ians.  Of  these  228  are  in 
Muine,  241  in  New-Hampshire,  284  in  Vermont,  497 
in  Massachusetts,  and  383  in  Connecticut.  In  propor- 
tion to  the  population,  the  ministers  of  all  denomina- 
tions are,  in  New- Hampshire,  as  1  to  1,013  ;  in  Massa- 
chusetts, as  1  to  1,052  ;  in  Connecticut,  as  1  to  718  ;  in 
Vermont,  as  1  to  830.  Of  the  Congregational  ministers, 
101  are  in  Maine,  111  are  in  New-Hampshire,  114  in 
Vermont,  352  in  Massachusetts,  and  184  in  Connec- 
ticut ;  being  to  the  whole  population  respectively,  as 
.1  to  2,952  ;  1  to  2,199  ;  1  to  2,068  ;  1  to  1,486  ;  and  1 
to  1,495.  It  should  be  noticed,  however,  that  the 
Registers  are  not  perfectly  accurate,  and  that  we  arc 
obliged  to  compare  the  population  in  1820  with  the 
nunioer  of  ministers  in  1827.  There  are  thought  to 
be  about  10,000  schoolmasters  in  New-England.  The 
militia  of  Connecticut,  officers  and  privates,  amount  to 
about  28,000  men.] 

A  General  Hospital  Society  for  the  state  of  Connec- 
ticut was  founded  in  1828  ;  and  the  building  is  to  be 
erected  in  New-Haven. 

.  The  J^ew  Burying  Ground  is  situated  opposite  the 
Medical  Institution,  and  occupies  a  large  extent  of 
]and,  partly  planted  with  poplars,  and  containing  a 
great  numoer  of  beautiful  ornaments,  of  different  de- 
signs. It  is  considered  the  most  beautiful  cemetery  in 
this  country. 

The  Old  Burying  Ground  was  in  the  middle  of  the 
green,  in  the  rear  oi  the  Centre  Church,  and  there  are 
to  be  seen  two  ancient  stone  monuments,  of  a  small 
size,  which  are  supposed  lo  mark  the  graves  of  two 
of  the  regicide  judges,  Whalley  and  Dixwell,  although 
.there  is  much  doubt  on  the  subject.  (See  Stiles's 
Judges  ' 


^s.) 


THE   FARMIXOTON   CANAL. 


25:5 


New-Haven  and  Farminoton  Canal. 


This  work  was  commenced  about  three  years  ago, 
and  is  designed  to  afford  a  navieable  boat  channel,  to 
the  Massachusetts  line  in  Simsbury,  where  it  is  met 
by  the  Hampshire  and  Hampden  Canal,  which  is  to 
strike  Connecticut  River  at  Northampton.  By  an  act 
passed  in  1828  by  the  legislature  of  Massachusetts, 
this  work  may  be  continued  along  the  course  of  the 
river,  and  the  associated  companies  extend  their 
views  to  the  construction  of  a  Canal  to  Bamet  in  Ver- 
mont. The  Company  for  the  Improvement  of  Con- 
necticut River  are,  at  tne  same  time,  pursuing  a  system, 
which  will  be  hereafter  more  particularly  adverted  to. 

The  New-Haven  and  Farmington  canal,  commencing 
near  the  head  of  the  wharf  in  this  city,  is  crossed  by 
the  traveller  in  going  up  from  the  steamboat,  near  the 
market.  The  basin  is  large  and  commodious ;  and  the 
canal,  passing  through  a  part  of  the  city,  and  bending 
round  along  the  outskirts,  on  the  north  side,  intersects 
several  streets,  by  which  it  is  crossed  on  handsome 
bridges.  With  a  gradual  ascent,  the  canal  passes 
somewhat  circuitousiy  up  the  valley  which  opens 
towards  Mount  Carmel,  between  East  and  West 
Rocks  ;  and  one  of  the  stage  roads  to  Hartford,  which 
passes  through  Cheshire  and  Farmington,  affords  many 
views  of  it  in  different  places.  When  the  whole  line 
shall  become  navigable,  it  will  be  an  attraction  to 
many  travellers,  and  in  a  future  edition,  the  objects 
along  it  may  be  particularized. 

The  rates  of  toll  established  in  1828  were — 10  cents 

a  mile  on  every  packet  boat,  and  3  cents  on  every 

passenger ;  2  cents  a  mile  on  freight  boats  of  less  than 

20  tons,  and  3  cents  on  larger  ones  ;    1  or  U  cent  pei 

mile,  on  most  heavy  articles  per  ton,  in  boats,  and  i 

cents  in  rafts. 

The  first  part  of  the  canal  passes  throuch  an  easy 

Y  2 


254 


BOIITE   IN   CONNECTICUT. 


and  natural  channel,  where  is  little  variation  in  the 
surface ;  and  introduces  us  to  the  beautiful  and  fertile 
meadows  at  Farmington.  The  upper  part,  however, 
and  particularly  the  Hampshire  and  Hampden  Canal, 
required  much  lockage  ;  but  the  irregularity  of  the 
country  will  present  an  interesting  variety  of  scenery. 
Jocelyn  has  published  an  elegant  and  valuable  map  of 
the  canal  and  adjacent  country,  to  the  Canada  line. 

There  are  pleasant  rides  in  various  directions  from 
New- Haven,  the  roads  being  numerous,  and  the  face  of 
the  country  favourable.  The  two  mountains  command 
extensive  views,  and  though  the  access  is  rather 
fatiguing,  the  excursion  is  recommended  to  those  who 
are  fond  of  such  enterprises. 

The  Judges^  Cave  is  on  the  summit  of  West  Rock, 
about  a  mile  north  of  the  bluff:  and  the  way  to  it 
leads  near  Beaver  Pond,  and  Pine  Rock  (on  the  south 
side  of  which  is  a  small  cave),  then  between  Pine  and 
West  Rocks.  You  here  turn  off  the  road  to  the  left, 
by  a  path  across  a  brook :  and  a  guide  may  usually  be 
obtained  at  a  small  house  just  beyond,  who  can  show 
a  horse  path  to  the  summit. 

The  cave  is  formed  by  the  crevices  between  seven 
large  rocks,  apparently  thrown  together  by  some  con- 
vulsion. It  is  small,  and  entirely  above  ground,  with 
a  rude  rock,  like  a  column,  on  each  hand.  That  on  the 
right  contains  this  inscription, 

"  Opposition  to  tyrants  is  obedience  to  God," 

to  remind  the  visiter  that  the  place  once  afforded  shelter 
to  Goffe  and  Whalley,  two  of  the  iudges  of  king 
Charles  the  First,  who  escaped  to  tne  colonies  and 
secreted  themselves  for  some  time  in  this  solitary 
place.  They  were  supplied  with  food  by  a  family 
which  resided  near  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and  a 
little  boy  was  despatched  for  them  every  day,  who 
left  a  basket  of  provisions  on  a  rock,  without  knowing 
what  cause  he  was  subserving.    The  place  conimanoi 


lion  in  the 
and  fertile 
t,  however, 
►den  Canal, 
trity  of  the 
of  scenery, 
ible  map  of 
[da  line, 
sctions  from 
1  the  face  of 
IS  conmiand 
s  is   rather 
o  those  who 

West  Rock, 
le  way  to  it 
on  the  south 
ien  Pine  and 
d  to  the  left, 
ay  usually  be 
rho  can  show 

tween  seven 
►y  some  con- 
round,  with 
That  on  the 


God," 

3rded  shelter 

Iges  of  king 

[colonies  ana 

[this  solitary 

by  a  family 

jntain,  and  a 

try  day,  who 

loutknowii^ 

;e  conirnand^s 


llOAl)   TO   M1D1)LEX0W^^  2o.:> 

an  extensive  view  upon  the  country  below,  with  a 
laige  tract  of  Long  Island,  and  the  Sound. 

The  Manufactory  of  Muskets  is  2  miles  north  of 
New-Haven,  on  the  road  to  Hartford,  by  Meriden,  and 
at  the  foot  of  East  Rock.  It  was  estaolished  by  Mr. 
Whitney,  the  well-known  inventor  of  the  Cotton  Gin. 
The  machinery  is  carried  by  the  water  of  a  small 
river,  and  the  houses  of  the  overseers  and  workmen 
make  a  pretty  appearance  on  the  shore.  Muskets  are 
made  here  in  all  their  parts,  many  of  them  for  the 
arsenals  of  the  United  States.  It  is  designed  to  make 
the  arms  so  much  alike,  that  the  parts  may  be  applied 
indifferently  to  all  that  proceed  from  the  same  manu- 
factory. It  is  not  found  possible,  however,  to  accom- 
plish this  object  to  the  full  extent  desired. 

Road  to  Mibdletown. 

Northford  .....*...*  10  miles. 
Durham     ......*..     s.    8 

Middletown 6 

(For  a  description  of  this  beautiful  town,  see  beyond.) 

Beyond  New-Haven  in  Lon^  Island  Sound,  lies  a 
cluster  of  islands  called  the  Thimbles,  famous  in  the 
traditions  of  the  neighbouring  Connecticut  coast,  as 
the  ancient  resort  of  Capt.  Kidd,  a  notable  pirate, 
whose  treasures  of  solid  gold,  if  is  still  believed  by 
some,  are  concealed  somewhere  hereabouts.  Within 
this  labyrinth  of  islands  and  headlands  is  a  little 
secluded  bay  or  inlet,  capable  of  containing  only  one 
vessel  at  a  time,  which  bears  the  name  of  Kidd's  Har- 
bour. There  is  also  his  island,  his  chair,  and  his 
*  punch  bowl.'  There  are  several  houses  along  the 
shore,  within  a  few  miles  of  this  place,  which  are  re- 
sorted to  during  the  warm  season  by  a  considerable 
number  of  visiters  from  the  interior,  for  the  sake  of 
bathing  in  the  salt  water,  and  eatii^  lobsters,  black 
fi*h,  and  oysters.    In  September  ana  Of  toher,  ducks 


!2r)(j 


KOUn:    IS    iv7s2iECTlCV'l . 


may  be  ibund  in  great  quantities  near  the  shore,  and 
black  fish  are  caught  in  considerable  numbers  ;  but 
the  best  fishing  is  further  east,  at  NewrLondon,  New- 
port, &c. 

[As  it  is  necessary,  in  a  work  like  this,  we  have 
undertaken  to  pursue  some  definite  course,  and  to 
mention  places  and  objects  in  the  order  in  which  they 
will  probably  occur  to  most  travellers,  we  shall  here 
leave  Long  Island  Sound  to  proceed  up  Connecticut 
River,  ancTonly  refer  the  reader  to  the  Index  for  an 
account  of  the  coast  beyond,  and  the  following  subjects 
and  places :  New-London,  the  Thames,  Norwich, 
the  Mohicans,  the  Pequods,  Saccacus's  Fort,  Mystic 
Fort,  the  Narragansett  shore,  Newport,  Providence, 
kc] 

SAYBROOK. 

At  this  place  was  the  first  settlement  made  by  Euro- 
peans on  Connecticut  River.  It  was  done  at  the  earnest 
solicitation  of  many  of  the  nghtful  proprietors  of  the 
country  on  its  banks,  who  had  been  despoiled  of  their 
possessions  by  their  formidable  enemies,  the  Pequods. 
The  River  Indians,  as  our  old  histories  usually  deno- 
minate the  former,  twice  made  application  to  the 
English  at  Plymouth  and  at  Boston,  to  obtain  settlers 
upon  their  native  soil,  offering  to  give  them  land  enough, 
and  to  pay  200  beaver  skins  annually  for  the  benefit 
of  their  society.  But  the  undertaking  was  considered 
too  hazardous,  and  it  was  not  until  the  year  1635,  when 
the  Dutch  at  New-York  showed  a  determination  to 
seize  upon  the  country,  which  they  claimed  as  their 
own,  that  a  small  detachment  of  men  was  sent  from 
Boston  by  water  to  prepare  for  opening  a  trade  wiili 
the  Indians,  and  to  build  a  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river.  Their  haste  was  soon  justified  by  events  :  for 
jmmedialely  after  their  landing,  a  Dutch  vessel  entered, 
and  proceeding  up  to  Hartford,  landed  a  body  of  men. 
who  soon  established  themselves  in  a  fort  they  call^fl 


shore,  and 
Tibers  ;  but 
ndon,  New- 

s,  we  have 
irse,  and  to 
I  which  they 
/e  shall  here 
Connecticut 

Index  for  an 
wing  subjects 
»s,   Norwich, 
Fort,  Mystic 
,  Providence, 


nade  by  Euro- 
eat  the  earnest 

»prietors  of  the 
spoiled  of  their 
s,  the  Pequods. , 
5  usually  dcno- 
lication  to  the 
obtain  settlers 
m  land  enough, 
for  the  benefit 
was  considered 
ear  1635,  when 
termination  to 
imed  as  their 
1  was 


[iga 


sent  from 
„  trade  wiiii 
.  mouth  of  the 
by  events  :  tor 
|)  vesstl  entered, 
,  a  body  of  men. 
fort  they  rallrd 


aAYBUOOK. 


O  X7 


Good  Hope,  on  a  spot  they  obtaiired  frcn  Pequod 
usurpers. 

The  settlement  of  Saybrook  was  begun  under  a 
grant  made  to  Lord  Say  and  Seal,  Lord  Brook,  and 
others,  by  George  Fen  wick,  Esq.  who  fled  to  this 
country  with  his  tamily.    The  ola  fort  stood  near  the 

E resent  fort  hill,  upon  an  eminence  which  has  sinca 
een  destroyed  by  the  waves  ;  and  the  ground  imme- 
diately behind  it  was    afterward   occupied  by  the 
fields  and  habitations  of  the  colonists.    It  was  expected 
from  the  first,  that  the  situation  would  render  the  place 
a  great  city ;  and  after  the  fear  of  the  Indians  had 
subsided,  the  whole  peninsula,  which  bears  the  name 
of  Saybrook    Point,  was  laid  out  with  the  greatest 
regularity  into  fields  of  an  equal  size,  except  such  parts 
as  were  reserved  for  the  erection  of  public  buildingf.- 
Yale  College  was  placed  here  for  a  time,  and  a  great 
number  of  emigrants  were  once  collected  in  England, 
and  prepared  for  a  voyage  to  this  place.  Some  persons 
of  high  rank  and  importance  were  among  them,  and  it 
is  a  well-authenticated  fact,  that  Oliver  Cromwell  had 
determined  to  embark  in  the  enterprise,  and  was  once 
on  the  very  eve  of  quitting  England  for  ever,  when 
some  unforeseen  occurrence  prevented  him. 

The  want  of  a  harbour,  and  the  obstacles  presented 
to  a  free  navigation  by  a  large  sand  bar  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  have  effectually  prevented  the  expecta- 
tions of  the  settlers  of  Saybroc^k  from  being  realized ; 
and  no  remains  of  their  works  can  now  be  discovered, 
except  in  the  rectangular  forms  of  the  fields,  and  the 
cellars  of  some  of  their  dwellings,  just  beyond  the 
burying  ground,  the  foundation  stones  of  which  have 
since  been  employed  in  building  the  neighbouring- 
fences.  One  of  the  largest  excavations  is  said  to  have 
been  the  cellar  of  the  old  college  building.  The  sol- 
diers were  frequently  attacked  within  a  short  distance 
of  the  fort  by  the  Pequods,  but  they  afterward  ran  a 
lalisade  acrosl*  the  isthmus  wliirh  lends  from  tlif  main- 


I 


i.i'i 


■  I] 

1 

Bill 

^hIiH       ^^n  '  H^I^Hb  ' 

illl 

11  |i|H| 

H  H  H 

1 IW 

1  lp> 

1  11 

ll 

IH        wSi  i  i^^H 

1 

11 

'  1  lll^ 

1  ^lli 

n   i  ^H^M 

1  'in 

Ml  j  ,Wffi|  j' 

1 H 

nil  '   '^HlSltit 

1 

III 

Bw" 

ioH  KOtTE    IN   CONNBCTICIJ  . 


CONNECTICUT  RIVER. 

The  shores  present  a  continued  succession  of  hilly 
and  picturesque  country,  with  few  interruptions  of 
level  land,  from  a  h'ttle  above  Saybrook  as  far  as  Mid- 
dletown.  The  roughness  and  rocky  nature  of  the  soil 
prevent  the  cultivation  of  many  mountainous  tracts  : 
yet  there  are  farms  enough  to  give  a  considerable 
degree  of  softness  to  the  scenery.  The  variety  of 
rocky  and  wooded  banks,  mingling  with  little  patches 
of  cultivated  ground,  and  the  habitations  scattered 
along  the  river,  is  very  agreeable,  and  often  affords 
scenes  highly  picturesque  and  delightful. 

Essex, 

7  miles  from  Saybrook, 

This  place  was  formerly  calle(J  Pettipaug.  It  is  a 
small  village,  situated  on  the  ascent  ana  summit  of  a 
handsome  t^levation,  and  contains  a  church  and  one  or 
two  other  public  buildings,  on  a  conspicuous  position. 
Just  above  it  is  an  island  of  some  extent,  which  divides 
the  river  and  gives  it  an  unusual  breadth.  During  the 
late  war  with  Great  Britain,  this  place  was  taken  by 
the  enemy,  who  came  up  the  river  in  launches,  and 
taking  the  inhabitants  by  surprise,  occupied  the  town 
for  a  few  hours. 

Some  distance  above  this  place  the  channel  lies  so 
near  the  eastern  shore,  that  the  steamboat  passes 
almost  under  the  trees  by  which  it  is  shaded. 

Joshua's  Rock  is  on  the  same  side  of  the  river,  a 
little  below  Brockway's  Ferry.  It  is  said  to  have  de- 
rived its  name  from  the  son  of  Uncas,  Sachem  of  the 
Mohicans  (see  JSorwich),  who,  according  to  a  tradition 
current  in  the  neighbourhood,  being  once  closely  pur- 
sued by  enemies,  threw  himself  from  the  top  of  the 
rock,  and  perished  in  the  river. 


UAVDAM. 


'J61) 


ion  of  hilly 
rruplions  of 
far  a3  Mid- 
e  of  the  soil 
lous  tracts: 
considerable 
e  vj»riety  of 
little  patches 
ns  scattered 
often  affords 


paug.    It  is  a 
summit  ot  a 
ch  and  one  or 
uous  position, 
which  divides 
.    During  the 
was  taken  by 
launches,  and 
led  the  town 


Waknek's  Ferry,  1 3  miles  from  Sayhrook, 

East  Haddam. 

The  landing  place  here  is  rocky,  mountainous,  and 
wild,  and  a  good  specimen  of  a  large  portion  of  the 
town  to  whicn  it  belongs.  Gen.  Champion  has  a  fine 
house  built  among  the  rocks  above,  which  adds  much 
to  the  appearance  of  the  place.  This  region  is  famous 
fur  a  kmd  of  earthquakes  and  subterranean  sounds, 
which  were  formerly  common  for  a  short  distance 
round.  They  gave  occasion  to  many  superstitious 
reports,  but  have  ceased  within  a  few  years.  They 
were  called  Moodus  Noises,  after  the  Indian  name  of 
the  place.  Large  beryls  are  found  in  the  neighbour- 
liood,  and  many  other  minerals  interesting  to  the  scien- 
tific traveller. 

Haddam 

)s  built  on  an  eminence  50  or  60  feet  high,  which  ap- 
pears like  the  remains  of  an  old  bank  of  the  river, 
descending  a  little  meadow  which  is  covered  with 
orchards,  grazing  ground,  &c.  while  a  range  of  com- 
manding hills  rise  beyond. 

HIGGE^'L•3I 

is  one  of  the  little  landing  places  so  numerous  along 
the  river's  course,  2  miles  above  Haddam. 

Middle  Haddam,  2  miles. 

This  is  a  pleasanf  country  village,  stretching  along 
a  hill  covered  with  orchards  and  house  lots,  and 
backed  by  higher  and  wilder  eminences.  It  is  about 
(i  miles  below  Middleto>vn.^ 


'!!! 


lao 


liutiE  iM  i;o:*Hjfcx;Ticn. 


Looking  down  the  river  from  a  little  above  Uu:^ 
place,  a  lar^e  and  beautiful  hill  is  seen,  which  afford^; 
the  richest  scene  of  cultivation  on  this  part  of  the  river, 
being  entirely  covered  with  fields  and  orchards.  A 
large  wooded  eminence  is  a  little  higher  up,  and  several 
high  hills,  almost  wort!  y  of  the  name  of  mountains, 
are  visible  in  the  north. 

The  Narkows. 

Here  the  river  turns  abruptly  to  the  west,  and  flow^ 
between  two  lofty  hills,  which  it  has  divided  at  some 
long  past  period,  before  which,  there  is  every  reason 
to  believe,  the  country  for  a  great  distance  above  was 
covered  by  a  lake.  A  mile  or  two  eastward  of  this 
place,  there  is  the  appearance  of  an  old  channel,  where 
the  water  probably  ran,  at  a  great  height  above  its 
present  level. 

The  Lead  Mine  is  a  short  distance  from  the  southern 
bank  of  the  river,  near  two  or  three  old  houses. 

Fort  Hill  is  the  last  elevated  part  of  the  southern 
bank.  It  was  formerljr  a  little  fortress  belonging  to 
Souheag,  an  Indian  chief,  whose  dominion  extended 
over  the  present  towns  of  Middletown,  Chatham,  and 
Wethersfield.  The  lai^e  buildings  on  the  hill  in  Mid- 
dletown were  erected  for  Capt.  Partridge's  Academy. 

MIDDLETOWN 

is  beautifully  situated  on  the  western  bank  of  the  riveiv 
where  the  water  is  spread  out  to  a  considerable  breadth, 
and  disappears  so  suddenly  at  the  Narrows,  that  from 
many  points  of  view,  it  has  the  appearance  of  a  small 
lake,  with  high,  sloping,  and  cultivated  shores.  This 
is  a  most  agreeable  residence  for  strangers,  particularly 
for  families,  during  the  pleasant  seasons  of  the  year, 
and  will  no  doubt  be  soon  supplied  with  more  nume- 
rous and  extensive  ac  Timodations. 
A  large  hotel  has  i^oently  been  built,  ^vbich  is  kept 


.UtUDLETOU^ft'. 


2S1 


above  thir* 
lich  affords 
if  the  river, 
chards.  A 
and  several 
mountaia^* 


t,  and  flows 
ied  at  some 
very  reason 
?  above  was 
vard  of  this 
mnel;  where 
it  above  its 

the  southern 
bouses, 
the  southern 
belonging  to 
on  extended 
hatham,  and 
,  hill  in  Mid- 
's  Academy. 


of  the  rivei^ 
le  breadth  r 

rs,  that  from 
ice  of  a  small 
khores.  This 
[,  particularly 

of  the  year, 

more  nume- 

hich  is  kep; 


by  Mr.  Newton.    Mr,  Campus  and  Jkfi*.  !Boardman's 
(in  the  same  street)  are  large  inns. 

The  Quarries  of  Freestone,  on  the  opposite  shore, 
have  furnished  a  valuable  building  material  for  some 
years,  and  have  been  worked  to  a  considerable  extent. 

Manufactories,  Cotton,  Woollen,  and  Rifle  Manu- 
factories, and  three  machine  shops,  are  near  the  bridge 
at  the  south  end  of  the  street.  Col.  North's  Pistol 
Manufactory  is  situated  two  or  three  miles  west  of  the 
town.  There  are  also  Starr's  llifle  Factory,  Johnson's 
Sword  Factory,  the  Pameacha  Woollen,*  Spalding's 
Tape,  and  Pratt's  Comb  factories. 

There  are  various  pleasant  rides  in  this  neighbour- 
hood, particularly  to  two  picturesque  Water  FalU  in 
Middlefield.  In  the  direction  of  one  of  them  is  Laurel 
Grove,  where  the  road  is  shaded  for  near  half  a  mile 
with  those  shrubs,  which,  in  the  season,  are  covered 
with  flowers.  The  environs  of  this  place  afford  other 
agreeable  rides. 

The  Lead  Mine  is  about  two  miles  below  the  town* 
on  the  south  shore  of  the  river,  accessible  only  on  foot 
or  in  a  boat,  where  are  several  old  shafts^  which  v  ere 
sunk  in  the  Revolutionary  war,  in  a  slate  rock.  The 
ore  is  a  sulphuret  of  lead,  in  veins  of  quartz,  partly 
ciystallized,  and  affording  a  few  specimens  of  fiuate 
of  lime,  and  other  minerals. 

The  Cobalt  Mine  is  about  five  miles  east,  in  Chatham, 
at  the  foot  of  Rattlesnake  Hill.  It  is  not  worth  work 
ing,  at  the  usual  price  of  the  metal.  Specimens  of 
peach-bloom  of  cobalt  may  be  picked  up  among  the 
rubbish.  Just  southerly  from  it  is  a  very  pretty  water 
fall,  about  thirty  feet  high. 

A  number  of  Germanfamilies  live  in  the  neighbour* 
hood;  the  descendants  of  miners,  who  came  from 
Europe  some  years  ago  to  work  the  mine. 

*  The  Pameacha  Mauufhctory  employs  from  150  to  200  persons,  con- 
feumes  100,000  lbs.  of  fine  wool,  and  turns  out  50,000  yds.iof  finished 
ttrondolofh  a  rear 


tQ'2 


KoUTi;    tJf   CO^NECTICLT    KXN£K. 


Upper  Houses, 

a  village  of  Middletown,  2  miles  above. 

From  a  hill  1  mile  from  this  is  a  very  pleasant  view 
towards  the  south,  presenting  the  river,  with  the  mea- 
dow and  hills,  as  well  as  Middletown  and  the  fine 
high  grounds  in  its  rear.  The  small  divisions  of  the 
soil  and  the  density  of  the  population,  as  well  as  the 
fertility  of  the  ground,  and  the  frequency  of  school- 
houses  and  churches,  here  show  one  of  those  interest- 
ing and  beautiful  scenes  characteristic  of  Connecticut 
River,  and  which  the  traveller  will  find  repeated  all 
along  its  course  far  into  New-Hampshire  and  Ver- 
mont. 

Rocky  Hill,  5  miles,  a  parish  of  Wethersfield.  About 
half  a  mile  north  of  the  tavern,  you  reach  the  brow  of 
a  hill,  which  commands  a  rich  prospect  of  many  miles 
of  the  Connecticut  Valley.  Wethersfield  lies  in  front, 
and  the  variegated  hills  and  plains  around  belong  to 
numerous  townships  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  en- 
closed by  ranges  ol  distant  highland,  which  direct  the 
course  of  its  channel.  On  the  left,  about  15  miles  off, 
is  the  ridge  of  Ta^cott  mountain ;  and  the  two  blue 
peaks  in  the  north  are  Mounts  Tom  and  Holyoke,  near 
Northampton,  at  the  distance  of  about  fifty  miles. 

Wethersfield,  3  miles  from  Hartford.  Tnis  place  has 
a  fine  light  soil,  on  an  extensive  level,  probably  once 
the  bottom  of  a  lake  since  drained  by  tbe  deepening 
of  the  river's  channel.  It  is  peculiarly  favourable  to 
the  culture  of  onions,  which  are  exported  in  great 

?[uantities  to  various  parts  of  the  country,  the  West 
ndies,  &c. 

Wethersfield  was  one  of  the  three  earliest  settle- 
ments made  by  white  men  in  Connecticut :  or  rather 
it  may  strictly  claim  the  precedence  of  all,  for  although 
houses  were  first  built  here,  as  well  as  at  Hartford  and 
Windsor,  in  1635,  three  or  four  men  came  to  this  place 
the  year  previous,  and  spent  the  w  inter.    Depredation? 


roNNECTicrr  statu  prison. 


iG.M 


asant  view 
[\  the  mea- 
d  the  fine 
ions  of  the 
well  as  the 
of  school- 
ise  interest- 
Connecticut 
epeated  all 
e  and  Ver- 

ield.   About 
the  brow  ot 
many  miles 
lies  in  front, 
id  belong  to 
le  river,  en- 
;h  direct  the 
15  miles  off, 
le  two  blue 
.olyoke,near 
ly  miles. 
I  his  place  has 
robably  once 
le  deepening 
"avourable  to 
•ted  in  great 
ry,  the  West 

,arliest  settle- 
[ut :  or  rather 
I,  for  although 
1  Hartford  and 
k  to  this  place 
[Depredation^ 


were  committed  on  thoir  settlements  for  the  first  few 
years ;  but  as  they  were  done  by  the  Pequods,  the 
destruction  of  that  natior  at  Mystic  Fort,  by  Capt. 
Mason,  in  1636,  put  an  end  to  them  entirely,  and  tliis 
part  of  the  river  was  nevei  afterward  made  the 
theatre  of  war. 

The  Connecticut  State  Prison. 

The  situation  of  this  institution  is  healthy,  retired, 
and  convenient  to  the  water  and  the  great  road.  It 
was  completed  in  1817 ;  and  is  worthy  of  the  attention 
of  those  who  feel  an  interest  in  the  condition  and  pros- 
pects of  the  unhappy  inmates  of  such  edifices.  What 
nave  heretofore  been  regarded  as  the  necessary  evils 
of  prisons,  will  here  be  found  greatly  reducecT ;  and, 
in  many  respects,  even  with  regard  to  the  prisoners, 
converted  into  benefits. 

The  modern  improved  principles  of  prison  discipline 
have  nowhere  produced  so  sudden  and  so  beneficial 
a  change  as  in  the  state  of  Connecticut.  An  old  cop- 
per mine  at  Granby  was  for  many  years  the  State 
rrison,  and  was  conducted  on  the  old  and  vicious 
system.  Here  the  Auburn  system  has  been  established, 
with  some  few  deviations. 

The  whole  is  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Pilsbury,  a 
man  of  firmness,  judgment,  and  humanity.  The  men 
are  brought  out  to  their  work  at  signals  given  by  the 
bell.  They  lodge  in  solitary  cells,  and  are  not  per- 
mitted to  converse  together  while  at  w(^rk.  They 
take  their  food  in  their  cells,  and  when  going  to  and 
from  work  or  prayers,  are  obliged  to  march  with  the 
lock  step.  Thev  are  to  be  chiefly  employed  in  brick- 
making.  No  blows  are  allowed  to  be  given  by  the 
officers  except  in  self-defence. 

The  smiths'  fires  are  supplied  with  Lehigh  ^Penn- 
sylvania) coal  for  fuel ;  and  part  of  the  heat  is  con- 
ducted away  in  pipes  to  warm  the  apartments.  The 
cells  are  furnished  with  comfortable  beds  and  bed 


{J64 


KOliXr.    l,F   COriAECTIOL'T    HlVJiJj:. 


i 


clothes,  and  a  Bible  for  each.  They  are  ranged  lu 
rows,  and  the  keepers  can  look  into  them  througji 
grated  doors ;  at  the  same  time  the  prisoners  are  not 
able  to  converse  with  each  other.  The  effects  of  evil 
communication,  so  much  and  so  baneful ly  cherished  in 
our  old  prisons,  are  thus  effectually  prevented.  Nei- 
ther officers  nor  convicts  are  allowed  to  use  ardent 
spirits.  The  inmates  are  kept  clean  and  comfortably 
clad;  and  while  shut  up  from  society,  whose  laws 
they  have  infringed,  they  are  not  debased  and  rendered 
more  vicious  and  dangerous  by  bad  example  or  evil 
counsel ;  but  are  usefully  and  healthfully  employed, 
instructed,  invited  to  return  to  virtue  and  respectability, 
and  consigned  for  a  largt^  portion  of  the  time  to  soli- 
tude and  undisturbed  reflection. 

HARTFORD. 

Inns. — The  City  Hotel,  (by  J.  Morgan,)  and  the 
United  States  Hotel,  (by  H.  Morgan,)  are  two  of  the 
best  houses  in  the  country. 

This  is  the  semi-capital  of  the  state,  and  a  place  of 
considerable  business,  as  well  as  one  of  the  great 
points  at  which  the  principal  roads  concentrate.  No 
fewer  than  ten  weetly  papers  are  published  in  this 
city. 

The  Charter  Oak, — In  the  lower  part  of  the  town, 
in  the  street  which  runs  east  from  the  south  church,  is 
the  ancient  and  respectable  seat  of  the  Wyllys  family, 
who  were  among  the  early  settlers  of  Hartford,  and 
have  made  a  conspicuous  tigure  in  the  history  of  the 
state,  as  well  as  of  the  town,  by  supplying  the  Secre- 
tary's office  f«>r  a  long  course  of  time.  This  place  is 
now  owned  by  Mr.  Bulkley,  and  has  undergone  con- 
siderable changes.  The  principal  object  of  curiosity 
here  is,  however,  the  fine  old  oak,  which  stands  on  the 
street  in  front.  It  is  said  to  have  been  a  forest  tree 
before  the  land  was  cleared,  yet  it  appears  as  firm  and 
vigorous  as  eyer.    In  a  hole  in  its  trunk  was  hidde^^ 


ilAUilOUJ». 


iitii") 


^cd  ill 
Tirough 
are  not 

of  evil 
ished  in 
.    Nei- 

ardent 
frrlably 
se  laws 
•endered 
e  or  evil 
nployed, 

ctabilily» 
;  to  soU- 


and  the 
wo  of  the 

a  place  of 
the  great 
rate.  No 
ed  in  this 

the  town, 
church,  is 

ys  family* 
rtford,  and 

ory  of  the 
the  Secre- 
s  place  is 
rgone  con- 
f  curiosity 
inds  on  the 
forest  tree 
as  firm  and 
as  hidde^^ 


the  charter  of  the  colony,  when  Sir  Edmund  Andross 
sent  to  demand  it  in  1687  ;  and  there  it  remained  for 
some  years. 

This  interesting  document  is  still  preserved  in  the 
office  of  the  Secretary  of  the  state. 

The  Asylum  for  the  Education  of  the  Deaf  and 
Dumb  is  about  a  mile  west  of  the  town,  on  Tower 
Hill.  It  was  the  earliest  institution  of  the  kind  in 
America,  and  is  under  the  direction  of  a  board  of  di- 
rectors, who  publish  annual  reports  of  its  condition. 
Mr.  Gallaudet,  a  gentleman  who  was  sent  to  Europe 
to  qualify  himself  for  the  purpose,  is  principal ;  and 
Mr.  Le  Clerc,  a  favourite  pupil  of  the  Abbe  sicard  of 
Paris,  occupies  the  next  station.  He  is  a  man  of  su- 
perior talents,  although  deaf  and  dumb. 

The  principal  building  is  large,  ornamented  with 
pilasters,  and  surrounded  by  a  garden  and  pleasant 
grounds.  The  house  of  the  superintendant  is  near  by, 
and  the  whole  enjoys  a  fine  situation,  with  a  command- 
ingprospect  and  a  healthy  neighbourhood. 

The  stranger  wiil  receive  uncommon  gratification, 
from  a  visit  to  this  benevolent  institution  on  the  days 
appointed  for  the  admission  of  visiters.  The  deaf  and 
dumb  are  generally  remarkable  for  close  observation, 
readiness  of  apprehension,  an  eager  thirst  for  know- 
ledge, and  a  very  retentive  recollection;  and,  as  all 
their  instruction,  being  communicated  through  the 
sight,  can  be  obtained  only  by  the  strictest  attention, 
and  the  abstraction  of  the  mind  from  every  other 
subject,  the  appearance  of  a  class  absorbed  m  their 
lesson  is  calculated  to  produce  feelings  of  an  unusual 
and  highly  interesting  character. 

Every  aeaf  and  dumb  person  soon  forms  a  language 

of  natural  signs,  by  which  he  is  able  to  communicate 

the  most  necessary  ideas  on  first  arriving  at  the  Asylum. 

He  is  then  taught  the  alphabet  in  use  here,  vvhich  is 

made  by  the  fingers  of  one  hand ;   after  which  the 

names  of  visible  objects  are  easily  spelled,  and  the 

f>Tder  of  their  letters  committed  to  memory.    Absent 

z  ? 


I 
i 


mi 


K01iT£    il»   CONNECTICUT    KlViiK. 


I 


i| 


objects  and  abstract  ideas  are  communicated  by  raauy 
iiMl^enious  devices,  which  it  is  impossible  here  to  de- 
scribe ;  and  arbitrary  signs  are  adopted  to  represent 
such  as  may  require  them.  Definitions  are  very  ex- 
tensively resorted  to;  and  they  are  always  of  the 
most  strictly  logical  character.  Indeed,  the  whole 
system  is  one  of  the  most  complete  and  beautiful  of 
the  kind  ever  formed  on  philosophical  principles. 

The  number  of  scholars  is  about  130.  Some  of 
them  are  supported  by  a  fund  belonging:  to  the  insti- 
tution, and  others  by  the  states  of  Massachusetts, 
New-Hampshire,  &c.  Similar  institutions  exist  in  the 
city  and  state  of  New- York,  Philadelphia,  &c.  and 
one  has  lately  been  provided  for  in  Kentucky. 

The  HopkMs  Grammar  School,  which  has  been 
recently  much  enlai^ed,  is  in  the  lower  part  of  the 
town. 

The  Retreat  for  the  Insane  is  a  little  south  of  the 
city,  and  makes  a  handsome  appearance,  being  a  stone 
building  150  feet  long  and  50  wide,  the  wings  having 
three  stories,  and  the  main  building  four.  It  is  capa- 
ble of  containing  about  50  patients,  and  is  warmed  by 
flues.  The  grounds  connected  with  the  institution 
include  about  17  acres. 

Miss  Beec!ier*s  School  ]MsX\y  enjoys  a  very  high  repu- 
tation. 

Washington  College  is  situated  west  of  the  main 
street,  in  the  south  part  of  the  town.  It  is  an  episco- 
pal institution^  and  has  at  present  two  stone  build- 
ings erected:  one  for  the  students,  150  feet  long,  four 
stories  nigh,  with  accommodations  for  96  pupils ;  and 
a  chapel,  which  has  also  rooms  for  recitation,  the 
library,  &c.  The  college  bills  are  $52  50  per  annum 
in  all ;  and  the  students  board  in  private  families  at 
the  rate  of  %\  60  per  week. 

Fourteen  acres  of  land  belong  to  the  institution,  part 
of  which  are  devoted  to  the  garden  with  its  green-house. 

A  large  episcopal  school  has  recently  opened  for 
young  ladies  near  this  institution. 


TKAVELLING    IN   ^EVV-ENGLANP. 


^1^7 


;d  by  raaoy 
here  to  de- 
3  represent 
re  very  ex- 
ays  of  the 
the  whole 
beautiful  of 
nciples. 
),    Some  of 
to  the  insti- 
issachusetts, 
3  exist  in  the 
iia,  &c.  and 
icky. 

;h  nas  been 
■  part  of  the 

south  of  the 
being  a  stone 
wings  having 
p.  ft  is  capa- 
|is  warmed  by 
lie  institution 

jry  high  repu- 

of  the  main 
It  is  an  episco- 
stone  build- 
feet  long,  four 
le  pupils ;  and 
Irecitation,  the 

50  per  annum 
Ite  families  at 

Institution,  part 
Its  green-house, 
lly  opened  for 


[Montevideo,  the  seat  of  Daniel  Wadswortb,  Esq, 
enjoys  a  charming  situation  on  a  mountain  nine  miles 
westward. 

TariffvilU  is  a  little  manufacturing  place  several 
miles  north  of  that  spot,  near  a  romantic  scene  on 
Farmii^ton  river,  where  it  passes  through  the  moun- 
tain.   Here  is  a  carpet  manufactory.] 

Remabks  to  the  Tbaveller  at  Habtford. 

From  Hartford  there  are  stage  coaches  running  in  va* 
rious  directions ;  north,  one  on  each  side  of  Connecticut 
River;  north-east,  to  Boston;  east,  to  Providence; 
sovxh,  to  New-Haven  and  New-York  (besides  the  daily 
steamboats  to  the  latter  place ) ;  xsest,  to  Litchfield 
and  Poughkeepsie  and  north-west  to  Albany. 

The  road  to  Boston  lead&  through  Stafford  Springs, 
and  Worcester,  but  is  otherwise  very  uninteresting  and 
quite  hilly.  There  are  two  routes  to  Boston,  which 
separate  at  Tolland,  and  meet  again  15  miles  from  that 
capital.  On  the  new  road,  (which  is  shorter,)  a  coach 
goes  through  every  day — travelling  from  3  A.  M.  till 
6  P.M. 

Stafford  Springs,  (26  miles  from  Hartford)  is  in  a 
romantic  region.  Tolland  17  m.  Springs  9,  Stur- 
bridffe  16,  &c. 

The  traveller  in  New-England  is  advised  to  take  the 
route  up  Connecticut  river,  which  is  the  most  fertile, 
wealthy,  and  beautiful  tract  of  the  country ;  and  to  re* 
turn  by  the  way  of  Boston  and  Providence.  This  is 
the  ioute  we  propose  to  pursue ;  but  the  traveller  can 
vary  from  it  as  he  pleases.  -He  will  find  such  informa^ 
tion  as  this  little  volume  is  able  to  afford  him,  by  refer* 
ring  to  the  Index. 

The  fertility  of  the  meadows  in  the  Connecticut  Val- 
ley is  almost  proverbial ;  and  after  what  the  straneer 
has  seen  of  its  banks  at  Middletown  and  Hartfordylie 
ivill  learn  with  gratification  that  neither  the  soil  nor  the 
beauty  of  the  cultivation  degenerates  for  several  hun- 


26B 


BVUTE   WP  CONNECTICUT   BIVEli. 


m 


dred  miles  northward.  The  whole  country  is  thickly 
populated  ;  neat  and  beautiful  villages  are  met  with 
at  intervals  of  a  few  miles;  and  the  general  intel- 
ligence derived  from  universal  education  gives  an  ele- 
vated aspect  to  society.  The  accommodations  for 
travellers  are  generally  very  comfortable,  and  some- 
times uncommonly  good  and  elegant ;  the  scenery  is 
ever  new  and  varying ;  many  places  have  traits  of  in- 
terest in  their  history ;  and  the  communication  is  easy, 
from  many  points  oi  the  route,  with  the  principal  places 
on  the  east  and  west.  Besides  all  this,  the  roads  are  pe- 
culiarly fine,  for  they  are  generally  run  along  the  river's 
bank,  which  is  almost  without  exception  level  and  plea- 
sant, and  formed  of  a  soil  well  fitted  to  the  purpose. 

The  western  side  of  the  river  is  generally  to  be  pre- 
ferred ;  but  as  there  are  good  roads  on  both  sides,  and 
some  villages  and  other  objects  worthy  of  equal  notice 
on  the  eastern  shore,  and  good  ferries  or  bridges  are  to 
be  met  with  every  few  miles,  it  will  be  agreeable  oc- 
casionally to  cross  and  recross.  Those  who  travel 
along  the  course  of  the  Connecticut  twice,  would  do 
well  to  go  up  on  one  side  and  return  on  the  other. 
This  is  the  most  direct  route  to  the  White  Hills  or 
White  Mountains  of  New-Hampshire. 

The  improvement  of  the  navigation  of  Connecticut 
river  above  Hartford  has  been  seriously  contemplated, 
on  a  combined  system,  and  the  legislatures  of  Vermont 
and  Massachusetts  have  consented  to  a  uniform  plan. 
Several  of  the  principal  falls  have  been  canallecf  and 
locked  for  boats  for  a  number  of  years ;  and  they  might 
be  made  to  serve  on  the  line.  The  first  part  of  the  na- 
vigation (that  is,  from  Hartford  to  Springfield  and  North- 
ampton) chiefly  engages  attention  at  present;  and  it 
is  not  improbable  that  the  traveller  will  have  an  op- 
portunity to  gratify  himself  with  a  pleasant  passage  in 
a  steamboat  even  as  far  as  the  latter  plac^  in  1830.  A 
canal  has  been  made  at  Enfield  Falls,  6  miles  in  length, 
in  the  bed  of  the  river,  with  three  locks,  of  a  suffioeni 
breadth  to  admit  steam  towboats. 


R. 

y  is  thickly 
e  met  with 
;neral  intel- 
rives  an  ele- 
odations  for 
,  and  some- 
e  scenery  is 
t  traits  of  in- 
Uion  is  easy, 
ncipal  places 
roads  are  pe- 
ng  the  river's 
5vel  and  plea- 
le  purpose, 
ally  to  be  pre- 
oth  sides,  and 
f  equal  notice 
bridges  are  to 
agreeable  oc- 
se  who  travel 
ice,  would  do 
Ion  the  other. 
Vhite  Hills  or 

)f  Connecticut 
contemplated, 
res  of  Vermont 
uniform  plan. 
.  canalled  and 
.ittd  they  might 
part  of  the  na- 
^leld  and  North- 
resent  ;  and  it 
ill  have  an  op- 
sant  passage  in 
'  ;^  in  1830.    A 
.niles  in  length, 
,,  of  a  sufficient 


A^ElilCAN    HISTORICAL  SOCIETV. 


269 


The  Steamhoat  Blanchard,  built  at  Spi  ingfield  for 
this  navigation,  measures  30  tons,  has  two  cabins  and 
an  engine  of  about  20  horse  power.  It  dras^s  scarcely  a 
foot  of  water,  but  moves  with  such  power  that  in  1828 
it  went  up  the  falls  at  South  Hadley  at  a  rapid  rate. 
The  sceneiy  on  this  route  will  be  found  very  pleasing. 

Those  who  go  to  Boston  will  pass  throu{^h  Worcester. 

Worcester  is  one  of  the  finest  villages  in  New-Eng- 
land.  Uie  Worcester  Coal  Mine,  which  is  at  a  distance 
from  the  road,  is  likely  to  be  worked  to  a  considerable 
extent.  The.  vein  is  considered  as  connected  with  that 
on  Rhode  Island.  It  is  anthracite  ;  and  if  its  quality 
should  justify  the  opinions  which  have  been  expresseo* 
it  cannot  fail  to  prove  highly  valuable,  both  for  home 
use  and  for  transportation  by  the  canal .  There  is  a  deep 
cut  at  the  foot  of  the  hil],leadin^  to  a  horizontal  shaft 
which  has  been  carried  in  some  distance.  The  country 
around  it  is  rich  and  variegated,  and  the  dwellings 
have  an  air  of  elejgance  which  does  great  credit  to  the 
taste  as  well  as  the  wealth  of  its  inhabitants.  Brick 
is  extensively  used  in  building.  Penknives  are  manu- 
factured  here  of  fine  quality.  The  courthouse,  bank, 
kc,  stand  on  the  principal  street ;  and  east  of  it  the 
county  house  and  tne  building  of  the 

Amerioan  Historical  SociEtr. 

This  is  an  institution  formed  by  Mr.  Isaiah  Thomas, 
many  years  a  printer  in  this  place,  for  the  truly  im^ 
portant  purpose  of  preserving  every  thing  relating  to 
the  history,  traditions,  &c.  of  the  country.  He  has 
made  it  a  donation  of  his  valuable  library,  between  7 
and  8000  volumes,  with  many  files  of  newspapers ;  and 
built  at  his  own  expense  the  handsome  edifice  in  which 
it  is  deposited.  Many  interesting  curiosities  have  also 
been  collected  here  from  all  parts  of  the  country,  but 
the  institution  has  not  funds  to  support  a  keeper,  and 
the  cabinet  has  not  (unless,  perhaps,  recently)  been 
opened  to  the  public.    The  building  cost  about  $8000, 


m 


i^,^' 


&70 


ROUTE  VV  C0^2if.V'TICVT  UIV£K. 


For  the  Blackstone  Canal  which  connects  this  i>lace 
with  Providence,  see  Index. 

Sutton,  Worcester  Co,  There  is  a  remarkable  chasm 
in  the  rocks  in  this  place,  at  a  distance  from  the  road, 
which  appears  to  have  been  produced  by  some  tre- 
mendous convulsion  in  the  earth.  It  appears  like  a 
wild  and  broken  ravine,  half  a  mile  long,  enclosed  on 
each  side  by  irreg:ular  walls  of  granite,  rising  to  a 
height  of  about  115  feet  perpendicular,  and  so  near 
as  to  threaten  the  visiter  who  explores  the  place  be- 
low. The  opening  is  only  from  75  to  100  feet  wide ; 
and  the  opposite  masses  of  rock  correspond  as  if  for- 
cibly torn  asunder,  as  they  doubtless  have  been.  On 
the  brow  of  one  of  the  precipices  is  a  mass  of  granite 
estimated  to  weigh  5000  tons.  The  depth  is  so  great, 
and  the  shelter  from  the  sun  so  entire  in  many  places, 
that  ice  may  be  found  at  almost  any  season  of  the  year. 

JVatchusett  Hills,  16  miles  W.  N.  VV.  of  Worcester, 
and  52  W.  by  N.  of  Boston,  are  estimated  at  nearly 
3000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  ascended  by  an  easy 
path.  The  spectator  looks  down  on  a  surrounding 
scene  of  wooded  mountains,  below  which  are  pon£ 
and  farms,  and  a  view  over  cultivated  and  inhabited 
regions. 

1  Fro:n  Worcester  to  Leicester,  5  miles ;  East  Brook- 
field,  7 ;  Brookfield,  3  ;  Ware  Factory  Village,  5 ; 
Belchertown,  10  ;  Northampton,  15.] 

Route  up  Connecticut  Ri"^t:r. 

Leaving  Hartford, 

The  State  Arsenal*  is  seen  on  the  right-band,  a  mile 
from  the  city  ;  and  many  pleasant  views  are  enjoyed. 

*  The  Quarter-Master  General  reported;  that  there  were  in  the  arse- 
iml,  in  1828,  4857  muskets  purchased  by  the  state,  together  with  3927 
muskets  and  150  rifles,  with  the  proper  accoutrements,  received  from 
the  United  States.  According  to  the  last  regular  returns,  there  were  in 
theiiands  of  the  militia,  but  not  owned  by  tlie  state,  upwards  of  13,000 
muskets  and  rifles  flt  for  service,  which,  with  those  in  the  nrsc^mi,  an- 
Yjcartv  pquRl  to  the  whole  number  of  the  infnntrjv      j 


SfBXiSGFIJmO. 


271 


s  this  place 

cable  chasm 
,m  the  road, 
ly  some  tre- 
pears  like  a 
enclosed  on 
^  rising  lo  a 
and  so  near 
he  place  be- 
0  feet  wide ; 
ond  as  if  for- 
re  been.    On 
lass  of  gramt?, 
3th  is  so  great, 
many  places, 
>n  of  the  year, 
of  Worcester, 
Lted  at  nearly 
ed  by  an  easy 

a  surrounding 
ich  are  ponds 

and  inhabited 

,;  East  Brook- 
fry  Village,  5; 


|ht-hand,  a  mile 
^s  are  enjoyed. 

Le  wereintheaije; 
Vlenis,  received  from 

fe  in  the  arsenal,  at< 


[East  Hartford,  opposite  Hartford,  has  a  sandy  soil, 
but  the  street,  as  well  as  that  of  East  Windsor,  next 
north  of  it,  is  shaded  with  rows  of  fine  elms.  The  road 
crosses  Podunk  firook  by  a  small  bridge,  about  four 
miles  from  Hartford,  on  tne  north  bank  of  which,  on 
tbe  left-hand,  was  once  the  fort  of  the  powerful  tribe 
of  Podunk  Indians,  who  had  their  settlements  on  this 
winding  stream,  and  some  of  their  broken  implements 
are  occasionally  found  in  the  soil.  The  nation  was  so 
powerful,  that  Uncas,  Sachem  of  the  Mohicans,  was 
unce  daunted  by  the  show  of  their  force,  although  be 
had  marched  to  attack  them  with  his  army,  and  after- 
ward chose  to  intimidate  tho.  by  the  following  stra- 
tag;em  :  he  sent  one  of  his  I  ians  to  burn  a  Pequod 
wigwam,  in  the  ui^ht^  near  the  fort,  who  then  fled,  as 
he  was  directed,  Teaving  some  Mohawk  arms  on  the 
ground.  This  made  the  Pequods  believe  that  that 
nation  had  leagued  with  Uncas,  according  to  an  inti- 
mation he  had  before  given,  and  they  immediately  sued 
for  peace. 

Bissel's  tavern,  8  miles  from  Hartford.  In  going 
to  the  ferry,  the  road  passes  the  Bissel  farm,  one  w 
the  finest  in  the  country.] 

Wi:xDsoii. 

it  has  been  mentioned  before  that  this  place  was 
settled  as  early  as  1635.  A  few  months  after  the 
building  of  the  fort,  (probably  a  blockhouse,)  the 
Dutch  garrison  at  Hartford  made  a  secret  march  against 
it,  expecting  to  take  it  by  surprise  ;  but  on  arriving  at 
the  place  they  found  reason  to  give  up  their  enter- 
prise, and  returned  without  firing  a  gun.  The  countiy 
was  formerl)r  very  populous  in  Indians,  the  six  square 
miles  of  which  the  town  was  formed,  and  which  ex- 
tended on  both  sides  of  the  river,  containing  ten  sepa- 
rate sachemdoms,  or  petty  Indian  tribes. 

There  is  a  school  established  in  this  town  on  the 
jMenberg  plan,  in  which  agriculture  is  taught  both 


•  :? 


;l 


»>i- 


272 


liOUTE   VV   CONNECTICUT   lllVER. 


theoretically  and  practically,  a  good  farm  adjoiniug  it 
being  open  to  the  examination  and  experiments  of  the 
students, 

The  seat  of  the  late  Chief  Justice  Oliver  Ellsworth 
stands  on  the  east  side  of  the  street,  above  the  town, 
nine  miles  above  Hartford.  It  is  distinguished  by  co- 
lumns, and  surrounded  b}[  trees.  He  was  born  in  a 
bouse  opposite.  He  was  in  Europe  as  niinister  for  the 
United  States  to  France.  ^ 

After  turning  a  corner  a  little  beyond  this  place,  the 
new  road  runs  north  by  a  tavern,  while  the  old  one, 
across  a  sand  plain,  keeps  straight  on.  The  former  is 
recommended,  as  it  passes  for  several  miles  along  the 
bank  of  Connecticut  River. 

IVarehotise  PoirU,  in  Enfield,  is  seen  on  the  east  side. 
Here  vessels  are  built,  and  the  place  carries  on  a  little 
trade.  There  is  a  Shaker  settlement  of  about  600 
persons,  6  or  6  miles  from  Enfield.  Messrs.  Andrews 
&  Thompson's  Carpet  Manufactory  is  at  Thomp- 
sonville. 

The  Canal  of  6  miles  to  pass  the  falls  below  this 
place,  was  spoken  of  at  Hartford* 


I . 


SUFFIELD 

is  a  very  pleasant  town  about  a  mile  west  of  the  road, 
and  has  a  good  inn,  and  a  mineral  spring  in  its  vrcinity, 
which  has  been  the  resort  of  considerable  company. 
The  village  street  runs  along  the  ridge  of  a  long  and 
beautiful  hill,  with  neat  houses  and  white  fences  on 
both  sides,  and  the  home  lots  sloping  east  and  west  to- 
wards the  low  ground.  Some  of  the  houses  are  large 
and  elegant. 

S^ffidd  Springs,  About  a  mile  south-west  of  the 
street  is  a  mineral  spring  of  slightly  sulphureous  qua- 
lities. A  house  has  been  built  there  about  90  years, 
which  has  accommodations  for  50  persons,  with  baths 
♦>f  different  description?.    The  sprina:  is  in  swampy 


land, 

ticuia] 

is  plei 

pretty 

agreea 

becom 

If  it 

miles,  I 

fieldf  o 

going  ri 

some  ti 

lead  dii 

stantialJ 


Colum 
and  to  B 
'i'his  i 
high  hilL 
buiicjings 
habitants 
Armor}'. 
of  groun( 
ings  contc 
arms,  the 
high  wail 
i'l  severa 
houses   w 
huiJdin-s 
affo,  but  h 
each  120 
arms.     Ac 
(o  give  a  . 
^vbich  bea 
jiind  in  th( 
'^be  numb 
260,  has  a 
Perity  of  t 


Sl'KI^GllELn. 


27:^ 


oiuiug  it 
ts  of  the 

illsworlh 
he  town, 
ed  by  co- 
born  in  a 
ter  for  the 

place,  the 
3  old  one, 
g  former  is 
;  along  the 

e  east  side. 
s  on  a  little 
about  600 
s.  Andrews 
it  Thomp- 

below  this 


of  the  road, 
I  its  vrcinity, 
e  company. 

a  long  and 
:e  fences  on 

and  west  to- 
ises  are  large 

l-west  of  the 

lureoup  qua- 

tut  30  years, 

\,  with  balb: 

in  swampv 


land,  and  its  qualities  are  considered  valuable,  par- 
ticularly in  cases  of  cutaneous  disorders.  The  place 
is  pleasant,  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  rural  scene,  with  a 
pretty  flower  garden,  &c.  calculated  to  render  it  an 
agjreeable  resort,  which  it  will,  no  doubt,  in  due  time 
become. 

If  it  is  intended  to  stop  for  the  night  within  a  few 
miles,  the  best  inn  is  the  Columbian  Hotel,  at  Sprinff- 
field,  on  the  east  side  oi  the  river.  To  reach  it  m 
going  north,  turn  off  to  the  right  through  the  meadows, 
some  time  alter  passing  Westfield  River,  which  will 
lead  directly  to  the  Springtield  bridge.  This  is  sub- 
stantially built,  and  well  protected  by  a  roof. 

Spriingfield. 

» 

Columbian  Hotel.  Stage  coaches  run  north,  south, 
and  to  Boston  and  Albany. 

This  is  a  flourishing  town,  standing  at  the  foot  of  a 
high  hill,  the  side  ot  which  is  ornamented  with  fine 
buildings,  the  residences  of  some  of  the  wealthier  in- 
habitants, and  the  top  occupied  by  the  United  States' 
Armory.  This  establishment  occupies  a  lai^e  space 
of  ground,  and  commands  a  fine  view.  The  build- 
ings containing  the  workshops  for  manufacturing  small 
arms,  the  arsenal,  barracks,  &c.  are  surrounded  by  a 
high  wall ;  and  the  habitations  of  the  workmen,  seen 
ill  several  neighbouring  streets,  are  generally  neat 
houses  with  small  gardens.  Some  of  the  principal 
buildin-s  within  the  wails  were  burnt  about  four  years 
ago,  but  have  since  been  rebuilt,  viz.  three  buildings, 
each  120  feet  long,  one  of  which  is  a  store  house  of 
arms.  Access  may  be  obtained  ;  but  here  is  not  room 
to  give  a  particular  description  of  the  establishment, 
which  bears  a  general  resemblance  to  others  ot  this 
kind  in  the  country,  although  it  is  the  largest  in  size. 
The  number  of  workmen  required,  which  is  about 
260,  has  a  favourable  effect  on  the  business  and  pros- 
perity of  the  place.     About  13,000  muskets  are  madfi 

A  « 


274 


ROUTE    Vr   COKNECTICtT    RIVER. 


here  annually,  or  60  a  day.  There  were  manufactured 
here,  in  1829, 16,500  muskels.  Expenditure,  Ji  190,000, 
including?  repairs,  &c.  The  average  cost  of  a  musket 
is  now  §\0  66.  Since  the  establishment  was  tornied, 
in  1795,  296,989  muskets  have  be*  n  manufactured. 
The  manufactories  on  Mill  liver,  a  lillle  south  of  the 
armory,  are  various  and  well  worthy  of  observation,  at 
least,  in  passing.  A  road  that  runs  alon^  the  bank, 
passes  a  rwjmber  of  fliHjr  mills,  &c.  belonging:  to  indi- 
viduals, besides  the  Upper,  Middle,  and  Lower  Water 
Shops,  connected  with  the  armory.  There  are  three 
dams  of  hewn  stone,  and  the  buildings,  in  plan  and 
construction,  are  well  calculated  for  service  and  dura- 
bility.  The  water  shops  contain  in  all  18  water 
wheels,  10  trip  hammers,  28  lorges,  9  coal  houses, 
and  have  connected  with  them  several  houses  and 
stores. 

The  town  is  ornamented  with  many  fine  elms  and 
other  trees ;  and  there  are  two  very  handsome 
churches,  a  Hi8:h  School,  &.c.  It  was  originally  con- 
sidered within  the  limits  ol  Connecticut  Colony,  but 
at  length  incorporated  with  Massachusetts.  A  tribe 
of  Indians  lived  for  some  years  on  Fort  Hill ;  but 
being  won  over  to  King  Philip's  party,  in  1675,  they 
assumed  a  hostile  air,  tired  upon  some  of  the  inhabit- 
ants who  were  going  to  their  fort,  and  burnt  a  part  of 
the  town. 

In  1786,  during  the  rebellion  of  Shays,  he  attacked 
the  armory,  at  the  head  of  a  strong  parly  of  undisci- 
plined men.  Gen.  Shepard,  who  had  command  at  the 
place,  attempted  to  dissuade  them  from  their  attempt, 
and  finally  drove  them  off  by  firing  twice.  The  first 
shot,  over  their  heads,  dispersed  the  raw  troops,  and 
the  second  drove  off  the  remaifider,  who,  being  about 
200  revolutionary  soldiers,  did  not  desist  until  they  had 
lost  a  few  of  their  men.  This  was  the  first  check  the 
insurrection  received,  which  was  put  down  without 
much  subsequent  trouble. 

Sprinsrfield  Factory  Village  is  a  new  and  very  ex- 


SOUTH   HADLEY    FALLi, 


275' 


inufactured 
J,  J  190,000, 
)t*  a  musket 
»vas  fornit^d, 
inutaclured. 
south  ot"  the 
iservation,  at 
ifir  the  bank, 
ring:  to  indi- 
!ower  Water 
re  are  three 
in  plan  and 
ice  and  dura- 
all  18  water 
coal  houses, 
il  houses  and 

fine  elms  and 
;ry   handsome 
)r*\gina'ily  con- 
it  Colony,  but 
setts.    A  tribe 
ort  Hill ;    but 
,  inlb75,they 
ot'  the  inhabit- 
burut  a  part  of 

^s,  he  attacked 
irty  of  undisci- 
;oiYiniand  at  the 
iheir  attempt, 
ice.    The  first 
w  troops,  and 
iO,  being  about 
,t  until  they  had 
first  check  the 
down  without 

ar.d  very  ex- 


tensive manufacturing  place.  It  is  on  the  Chicopee 
Kiver,  and  a  stage  coach  passes  through  it  every  other 
day,  on  the  road  to  Belcnertown.  The  capital  em- 
ployed here  in  1828  was  ^[500,000.  The  buildings 
brick,  2  stories,  and  about  9000  yards  of  cotton  were 
made  daily  in  all. 

Wilbraham,  7  or  8  miles  west  from  Springfield,  con- 
tains a  Wesleyan  Academy.  The  pupils  are  instructed 
\(i  agriculture  on  a  farm,  and  in  the  mechanic  arts  in 
a  shop,  belonging  to  the  institution.  There  are 
teachers  in  varioufi  branches  of  literature,  science,  and 
the  arts. 

West  Springfield  has  a  fine  street,  shaded  with  large 
elms,  and  containing  some  handsome  houses.  It  is  26 
miles  from  Hartford,  and  about  17  miles  from  i\orth- 
ampton.  There  is  a  fine  view  from  the  road  on  the 
brow  of  a  hill  a  little  north  of  the  town,  near  a  church, 
which  overlooks  the  river  and  an  extent  of  country  on 
each  side,  with  Mounts  Tom  and  Holyoke  in  fronL 

South  Hadley  Falls. 

The  village  and  locks  are  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river. 

The  whole  fall  of  the  river  at  South  Hadley  is  52 
feet,  but  at  the  lower  falls  only  32.  There  is  a  canal 
^  miles  long  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  cut  through 
a  slate  rock  for  a  considerable  distance,  and  in  some 
places  very  deep.  The  dam  is  8  leet  high.  There 
are  five  locks  near  the  tavern,  and  one  above.  The 
toll  here  is  90  cents.  There  is  a  ferry  here,  which  is 
safe,  but  the  water  runs  very  swiftly. 

For  several  miles  before  reaching  Mount  Tom,  the 
road  runs  along  the  bank  of  the  river,  showing  its  banks, 
in  many  places,  roui>hened  with  rucks.  Its  channel  is 
in  one  place  crossed  by  the  dam,  which  turns  the  water 
into  the  South  Hadley  Canal.  The  river  makes  an 
abrupt  turn  some  miles  above,  running  between  Mount 
Tom  on  the  south  and  Mount  Holyoke  on  the  north  ; 


276 


UOUTli    UP   CONNKCTICUT   KIVEU. 


and  when  the  scene  opens  a^ain,  it  discloses  a  charm- 
ing and  extensive  plain,  formed  of  the  meadows  on 
the  river's  bank,  and  evidently  once  the  site  of  a 
large  lake,  when  the  water  was  restrained  by  the  bar- 
rier between  the  mountains.  This  plain  is  one  of  the 
richest,  and  by  far  the  most  extensive  and  beautiful  on 
the  river. 

Northampton. 


Hotels.  There  is  a  splendid  hotel  here.  Warner 
also  keeps  a  very  good  house. 

This  town  is  situated  at  the  west  side  of  the  plain, 
a  mile  from  the  river,  and  is  a  favourite  place  of  re- 
sort for  travellers  ;  as  it  is  one  of  the  most  heautiful 
of  the  New-Fingland  Tillages,  and  is  surrounded  by  a 
charming  country,  and  lies  near  to  Mount  HolyoKe, 
which  commands  a  view  of  the  whole.  The  streets 
are  irregular,  but  some  of  them  shady  and  delightful 
in  summer^  being  also  ornamented  with  many  neat 
houses  It  is  a  place  of  considerable  business  ;  and 
the  soil  makes  valuable  farms.* 

Round  Hill  is  a  beautiful  eminence  just  west  of  the 
town,  where  is  the  school  of  Messrs.  Cogswell  and 
Bancroft,  for  the  education  of  boys.  The  branches  of 
learning  taught  there  are  numerous,  and  there  are  in- 
structers  for  the  French,  Spanish,  and  German  lan- 
guages. Great  attention  is  paid  to  the  hours  of  recre- 
ation as  well  as  of  study,  and  the  pupils  are  rarely  to 
be  seen  out  of  the  precincts  of  the  school.    The  place 


*  Canal— Mr.  Hiird's  estimate  of  thp  whole  expense  of  the  Hampshire 
and  iiainpden  Canal  is  given  as  follows: 

Canal, $204,210 

Feeders, 44,856 

Cost  of  lands  and  contingent  expense,       .  18,500 

Total  expense,  $267,566 

The  length  of  the  canal  is  39J  miles,  divided  into  56  sections  of  163 
rods  each.  When  finished  it  will  be  particularly  described  in  a  futurti 
(trtlfioni 


SOiTIlAMPTON    LEAD   MINE. 


277 


;s  a  cliarm- 
eadows  on 
le  site  ol  a 
by  the  bar- 
i  one  of  the 
beautiful  ou 


re. 


Warner 


of  the  plain, 
place  of  re- 
U)st  beautiful 
•ounded  by  a 
int  HolyoKe, 
The  streets 
nd  deligjhtful 
h  many  neat 
business;  and 

5t  west  of  the 
Cogswell  and 
le  branches  of 
there  are  in- 
German  lan- 
lours  of  recre- 
are  rarely  to 
The  place 

■  of  the  Hampshire 

$204,210 
44,856 
18,500 


l$267,566 
^  56  sections  of  iw 
[cribed  in  a  futum 


ifseh"  is  very  pleasant :  commanding  fine  air,  fine 
scenes,  and  pertoct  retiienrent. 

On  the  eastern  declivity  of  the  hill  stands  the  house 
of  the  Stoddard  family,  an  ancestor  of  which  was  a 
man  of  great  talents  ^nd  influence  in  this  part  of  the 
country.  On  the  enst  si(U:  ot  the  main  street,  just 
south  of  the  brook,  is  the  house  of  the  late  Governor 
Strong. 

There  is  a  large  Button  Manufactory  in  this  vi- 
cinity. 

The  Lead  Mine. 

In  Southampton,  at  the  distance  of  8  miles  from  this 
place,  is  a  lead  mine,  which  will  be  regarded  with  in- 
terest by  the  curious  and  scientific.  A  considerable 
part  of  the  road  to  it  in  ^ood,  and  the  place  is  wild 
and  rough.  The  followmg  extract  from  the  Journal 
of  Science  and  the  Arts,  furnishes  all  necessary  in- 
formation on  the  subject. 

"This  vein  declines  10  or  15  degrees  from  a  per- 
pendicular, is  6  or  8  feet  in  diameter,  and  traverses 
granite  and  other  primitive  rocks.  It  has  been  ob- 
served at  intervals  from  Montgomery  to  Hatfield,  a 
distance  of  20  miles.     In  Southampton  it  has  beenex- 

J)lored  many  rods  in  length,  to  the  depth  of  40  or  60 
eet ;  and  the  galena,  which  is  the  prmcipal  ore,  has 
been  found  in  masses  from  a  quarter  of  an  inch  to  a 
foot  in  diameter.  At  the  depth  jibove  mentioned,  the 
water  became  so  abundant  that  it  v^as  thought  advis- 
able to  abandon  a  perpendicular  expbration,  and  to 
descend  to  the  foot  of  a  hill  on  the  east,  nearly  80 
rods  irom  the  vein,  and  attempt  a  horizontal  drift,  or 
adit;  and  ever  since  its  commencement,  seven  or  eight 
years  ago,  the  working  of  the  vein  has  ceased.  The 
rocks  that  have  been  perietrated,  reckoning  from  the 
mouth  of  the  drift  inwards,  are  geest,  the  red  and  gray 
slates  of  the  coal   formation,  with  thin  beds  of  coaL 

and  mica  slate,  and  granite,  alternating. 

AaS 


i7« 


liOUTE    tP   CONNKCTICUT    RIVKU. 


The  mouth  of  this  drift  is  4  or  5  fect  wide,  and 
about  3  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water.  The 
water  is  deep  enoup^h,  the  whole  length  of  it,  to  admit 
the  passage  of  a  loaded  boat.  Th<'  person- wishing 
to  explore  this  internal  canal,  must  fire  a  p:un  at  the 
entrance,  or  beat  herivily  with  a  sledeje  on  the  tind>ers 
that  support  \\ie  soil  ;  in  10  or  15  minutes,  he  will  per- 
ceive a  e^entle  unduI:<tioi\  of  the  water,  and  soon  after, 
a  boat  advanring  with  lighted  lamps  and  a  rower; 
having  seated  himselt*  on  the  bottom  of  this  boat,  and 
provided  himselt  with  an  additional  pfHrment,  he  is 
prepare«1  lor  his  subterranean  expedition.  1 1  he  l(X)ks 
oacK,  after  having  advanced  several  hundred  feet,  the 
lig^ht  at  the  entrance  will  appear  diminished  to  the 
size  of  a  candle  ;  and  before  he  reaches  thf  extremity, 
it  becomes  invisible.  About  half  way  from  the  en- 
trance to  the  end  of  the  drift,  he  will  pass  a  shaft, 
down  which  a  small  brook  is  turned,  for  the  purpose 
of  aiding  the  ventilator. 

The  miners  do  not  quit  the  drift  when  they  blast, 
but  retire  behind  a  breastwork  thrown  up  lor  the 
purpose.  One  man  has  been  an  inmate  of  ihat  dark 
recess  eight  O'  ten  years  without  suffering  in  his  health. 

Every  mineralogist  passing  that  way,  will  of  course 
visit  the  drift.  Intelligent  gentlemen,  with  ut  profes- 
sional views,  and  even  ladies,  not  unt'requently  enter 
the  cavity." 

Mount  Holyoke. 

The  ascent  of  this  mountain  has  become  very  fash- 
ionabie,  perhaps  more  so  than  any  similar  enterprise 
in  this  country,  if  we  except  that  of  the  Oatskili  IVf  un- 
tains  in  New- York.  The  height  is  said  to  be  800 
feet ;  and  there  is  a  goo«i  carriage  road  the  greater 
part  of  the  way  up,  as  well  as  a  building  of  consider- 
able size  on  the  summit,  for  the  accommodation  of 
visiters,  who  resort  thither  every  season^  usually  in 
parties. 


fi 


-4 

II 

'>.< 

1 

1 

■J 

^ 
Q 

H 

^ 

3 

§ 

'I 

^  1 

;-" 

i                » 

** 

^ 

S 

[,..:™ 


de,  and 
r.     The 
lo  admit 
wishing 
in  at  the 
timbers 
will  per- 
lon  after, 
1  rower; 
)oat,  and 
nt,  he  is 
he  l(K)ks 
feet,  the 
d  to  the 
xtremity, 
n  the  en- 
i  a  shaft, 
e  purpose 

[ley  blast, 
ip  tor  the 
lihat  dark 
his  health, 
of  course 
ut  profes- 
ntly  enter 


■A 


■it 
7i 


WM 


r«.«^»:.i! 


I'he 
to  Lyi 
is  furni 
found  I 
of  the  1 
on  the  < 
off  near 
tavern  r 
terminal 
trees,  ar 
Refresh! 
pies  the 
such  a  ri 
of  the  ri( 
wish  to  e 
sun  rise  ( 
the  nig-ht 
(21  keU) 
ingfs,  crop 
South-ei 
therefore 
lating-,  anf 
laifes  are 
Had  ley,  n 
'"^i  seen  Cc 
Mount  Tc 
Falls;  bej 
river  rmki 
;ery  distal 
^"^est  Rod 
,    JVorth-ec 
Hampshire 
Jupted  hy  \ 
North,  y 
hecticul;  b 
P?'ns  variei 
Micbeslcoat 
J"^  innum 


peautifui 


s< 


MOUNT   HOLYOKE. 


279 


There  is  a  short  road  througjh  the  meadows,  directly 
to  Lyman's  ferry,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  whicn 
is  furnished  with  a  good  horse-boat.  But  it  may  be 
found  pleasanter  to  cross  the  bridyre  at  the  upper  end 
of  the  town,  i»ass  through  Hadley  Meadows,  and  down 
on  the  eastern  bank.  The  pnth  up  the  mountain  turns 
off  near  a  small  old  housn,  and  another  r)pp(»site  the 
tavern  near  the  ferry.  Aft  -r  followina^  the  latter  to  its 
termination,  you  dismount,  secure  your  horses  to  the 
trees,  and  walk  up  a  rude  stone  staircase  on  the  right. 
Refreshments  will  be  tbund  at  the  house  which  occu- 
pies the  summit ;  and  which  opens  on  both  sides,  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  cotnmand  an  uninter  upted  view 
of  the  rich  and  varied  landscape  below.  Those  who 
wish  to  enjoy  the  luxury  of  seeing  dr;^  break  and  the 
sun  rise  over  such  a  scene,  may  find  a  shelter  here  for 
the  night.  There  was  a  remarkable  flood  in  the  river, 
(21  feet,)  in  the  autumn  of  1828,  which  destroyed  build- 
ings,  crops,  &c.  to  an  unprecedented  extent. 

SotUh-east,  the  view  is  less  interesting,  and  may 
therefore  be  first  exatnined.  The  country  is  undu- 
lating, and  the  soil  generally  poor ;  yet  several  vil- 
hijes  are  discovered  at  a  distance,  particularly  South 
Hadley,  which  lies  immediately  below.  Southwardly 
is  seen  Connecticut  rjver,  retiring  u«jder  the  shade  of 
Mount  Tom,  whitened  below  by  the  South  Hadley 
Falls;  beyond  which  is  the  hill  at  Springfield.  The 
river  makes  several  turns,  and  on  the  horizon  are  two 
very  distant  peaks,  which  are  supposed  to  be  East  and 
West  Rocks,  at  New-Haven,  about  70  miles  distant. 

North-east  is  seen  Monadnoc  Mountain  in  New- 
Hampshire  ;  and  the  view  towards  the  east  is  inter- 
rupted by  the  neighbouring  peaks  of  Mount  Holyoke. 

North,  you  look  up  the  charming  valley  of  the  Con- 
necticut ;  bordered  by  dislaut  ranges  of  hills  and  moun- 
tains, varied  by  a  few  isolated  peaks,  covered  with  the 
1  richest  coat  of  vegetation,  and  scattered  with  villages 
and  innumerable  farm  houses.  The  river  makes  a 
p^autiful  serpentine  course;  from  where  it  fiist  ap- 


mi  ■  M 


mja^ 


V  i 


1 


!    i! 


no 


KOLTE    UP   COXNKCncUT    KIVDll. 


, 


pears  at  the  foot  of  Sugar  Loaf  Mountain,  and  Mount: 
fob^,*  until  it  reaches  the  village  of  Hadley,  which 
lies  m  full  view  ;  and  then  taking  a  bold  sweep  to  the 
west,  and  flowing  4\  miles,  it  returns  to  the  end  of 
the  street,  only  a  mile  distant  iVom  wliere  it  first 
meets  it.  The  whole  peninsula  is  rich  and  fertile,  and 
covered  with  cultivated  fields  of  wheat,  corn,  gr  ss, 
&c.  without  being  disfigured  by  fences,  according  to 
the  custom  prevalent  herccibouts;  and  is  the  ricnest 
sight  upon  the  river,  particularly  when  viewed  in  con- 
nexion with  the  scene  immediately  below,  where  the 
river  flows  on,  almost  immedintely  under  our  feet,  and 
the  western  shore  presents  the  extensive  Northamp- 
ton Mea-iows,  a  mile  wide.  Following  the  current 
vi^ith  the  eye,  in  the 

West-south-west,  it  forms  a  still  more  remark  .ble  pe* 
nifisula,  although  one  of  inferior  size  :  the  Hockanum 
Bend  being  a  turn  measuring  3^  miles  in  circuit,  while 
the  isthnms  is  onlj  46  rods  across,  or  150  yards.  lr> 
the  compass  of  this  view,  irom  the  north  to  the  west 
and  south,  numerous  village  spires  are  seen,  wrth  level 
fields, orchards,  and  gardens,  almost  without  number; 
and  the  whole  scene  is  so  bounded  with  mountainous 
ridges,  as  to  seem  to  justify  the  opinion  of  geologists, 
who  say  that  it  was  once  coverea  with  an  extensive 
lake,  until  the  water  lorced  a  passage  between  Mounts 
Tom  and  Holyoke. 

Northampton  is  seen  about  west-north-west,  with 
Round  Hill ;  and  towards  the  right,  the  top  of  Saddle 
Mountain,  in  the  distance.  There  are  also  others  still 
further  north,  particularly  Haystack  and  Bare  Moun- 
tain. 

More  than  30  church  steeples  may  be  counted  here 
by  taking  advantage  of  different  kinds  of  weather. 

♦  In  this  mountain,  at  a  place  Suiiles  nortl«-east  of  Sunderland  village 
is  a  remarkable  cavern,  n:niiiii!;  through  the  mountain.  It  is  12  rods  long, 
65  feet  deep,  and  from  2  to  20  feet  wide.  'J'here  is  a  mass  of  puddini' 
stone  on  each  side,  which  appear  as  if  they  liad  been  rent  apart.  Then 
is  an  opening  at  the  top.  A  small  cave  opens  near  by  it.  45  feet  deep,  1'^ 
ividHj  and  V.W  lone.  .  ' 


In 

Valle 

third 

Mass? 

Weth 

ley,  ai 

the  fn 

war,  d 

alarms 

bad  so 

each  a 

the  Da 


MOUNT    UOLVOKE. 


L'8I 


I  Mounr 
',  which 
»p  to  the 
e  end  of 
:    il   tirst 
rtile,  and 
rn,5r.ss, 
ording  to 
le  richest 
ed  in  con- 
/vhere  the 
"  feet,  and 
J  orlh  amp- 
lie  current 

ik  ible  pe- 
Hockanum 
cuit,  while 
yards.    1r 
lo  the  west 
,  with  level 
lit  number ; 
lounta  incus 
geologists, 
extensive 
een  Mounts 

west,  with 
>p  of  Saddle 

others  still 
Bare  Moun- 

ounted  here 
weather. 

jiderlapd  village 
t  is  12  rods  long, 
nass  of  puddin-J 
-nt  apart.  Then' 
.45  feet  deep,  1'^ 


In  point  ol  history  that  part  of  the  Connecticut 
Valley  immediately  under  the  eye  belongs  to  the 
third  division  of  settlements,  calling  Plymouth  and 
Massachusetts  Bny  the  first ;  Windsor,  Hartford, 
Wethersfield,  &c.,  the  second.  Northampton,  Had- 
ley,  and  Hatfield  were  settled  in  165:?,  and  remained 
the  frontier  posts  in  this  direction  till  after  Philip's 
war,  during  which  they  suffered  severely  Irom  constant 
alarms,  and  the  loss  of  inh.ibitants.  The  Indians  who 
bad  sold  the  land  on  which  the  towns  were  built,  had 
each  a  spot  assigned  them  within  a  short  distance  of 
the  oalisades  with  which  the  new  settlements  were 
surrounded,  and  lived  in  peace  and  good  faith  until 
excited  by  Philip;  after  which  all  the  towns  were  at 
different  times  attacked  by  them,  and  some  of  them 
repeatedly.  During  the  Frerjch  wars,  on  May  13th, 
1704,  the  Indians  fell  upon  a  little  settlement  at  the 
foot  of  Mount  Tom,  and  killed  20  persons,  more  than 
half  of  whom  were  children;  and  a  tradition  states, 
though  without  designating  the  precise  time,  that  a 
captive  woman  was  once  brought  to  the  top  of  the 
mountain  where  we  stand,  and  scalped. 

Hadley  was  attacked  by  the  Indians  while  the  in- 
habitants were  at  church,  and  was  near  falling  into 
their  hands,  when  a  stranger,  a  venerable  old  man, 
made  his  appearance,  and  by  his  active  resistance, 
encouraged  them  to  repel  the  enemy.  It  was  not 
known  at  the  time  who  he  was,  or  whither  he  went ; 
but  there  is  now  little  doubt  that  he  was  Goffe,  one  of 
king  Charles's  judges,  who  was  secreted  for  a  length  of 
time  in  this  town,  and  of  whom  we  have  already  had 
occasion  to  speak  at  Vew-Haven.  The  remams  of 
his  coffin,  it  is  believed,  were  discovered  a  Jew  years 
since,  in  the  cellar  wall  of  a  house  near  the  present 
academy,  which  was  formerly  inhabited  by  one  of  his 
friends.  The  Burning  of  Deerfield,  we  shall  speak 
of  on  arriving  at  that  town. 

Stage  coaches  run  to  Boston  and  Albany  in  a  day ; 
nnd  up  and  down  the  river  daily. 


2  m 


»&# 


l^^ 


RorTK    Ur   CONNECTICUT    KIVFK. 


Hadley, 

3  miles.    (See  the  preceding  page.) 

Hatfield, 

One  mile  further,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river. 
This  town  is  much  devoter"  to  the  wintering:  of  cattle 
raised  on  the  neigjhbourin^  lilly  country.  The  grass 
is  very  fine,  and  the  barns  are  larjre;  which,  with  the 
appearance  of  the  houses,  give  the  place  an  air  of 
substantial  agricultural  wealth.  The  cattle  are  bought, 
stabled,  and  fatted. 

Abiherst 

is  situated  on  elevated  ground,  five  miles  from  Hadley; 
and  off  the  river  towards  the  north-east. 

Ainherst  College. — Although  of  recent  institution,  this 
ranks  among  the  most  respectable  in  New-England. 
The  situation  occupied  by  the  buildings  is  delightful, 
commanding  a  rich,  extensive,  and  varieJ  view,  partly 
over  the  meadows  of  Connecticut  river,  with  moun- 
tains particularly  mentioned  a  few  pages  back,  seen 
in  different  directions.  The  retired  situation  is  highly 
favourable  to  study  and  good  order,  as  its  elevation 
and  pure  air  are  conducive  to  health.  It  contained 
152  students  in  IS^G  ;  the  nujuber  who  graduated  in 
1828,  was  40;  and  the  students,  in  182H,  were  211.  The 
president.  Dr.  Humphi  e  ,  is  also  proiessor  of  mental 
and  moral  Phi!osof»hy  arid  Divinity.  There  are  six 
other  professors,  and  a  teacher  of  French  and  Spanish, 
a  teacher  of  mathematics,  and  a  tutor  ol  Latin  and 
Greek.  A  gymnastic  apparatus  has  lately  been 
added. 

The  AmJierst  Academy  is  a  large  private  establish- 
ment for  the  education  of  boys.     It  is  about  three 


miles 

are  Oi 

the  ir 

ciatioi 

under 

birth ; 

follow 

The 

form,  1 

enjoye 

crecte( 

about  t 

iU  lies 

througl 

by  the 

with  a 

the  gra 

village 

Brook,) 

stream, 

Indians. 

ground  • 

lormed 

the  field 

halted  a 

engaged 

on  the  t 

when  tl 

ffave  on 

from  bel 

«  or  10. 

tous  wbi( 

view  wi 

time :  as 

the  princ 

a  stone 

which  We 

^ent,  but 

That 


UEEKFIELD, 


2^0 


i  Tiver. 
)f  cattle 
[le  grass 
with  the 
n  air  of 
i  bought, 


Hadiey; 


I  establish- 
out  thref 


miles  distant;  the  building  is  eleg^ant,  the  instructers 
are  of  a  high  character,  and  the  system  is  formed  on 
the  improved  principle.  The  mociern  Greek  pronun- 
ciation has  been  adopted  here  for  the  ancient  language, 
under  the  instruction  of  Mr.  Perdicari,  a  Grecian  by 
birth;  and  this  judicious  example  it  is  hoped  may  be 
followed  in  other  institutions. 

The  Sugar  Loaf  is  an  isolated  hill  of  a  conical 
form,  rising  in  front  as  we  proceed.  A  fine  view  is 
enjoyed  from  the  summit,  where  has  recently  been 
erected  a  house  for  visiters.  Deertield  lies  north  of  it 
about  three  miles  ;  and  the  way  by  which  we  approach 
it,  lies  nearly  along  the  old  road  which  led  thither 
through  the  wilderness,  in  1675,  when  it  was  deserted 
by  the  settlers,  and  Capt.  Lothrop  was  despatched, 
with  a  body  of  80  soldiers  and  wagoners,  to  oring  off 
the  grain.  At  the  foot  of  this  mountain  is  the  small 
village  of  Bloody  Brook,  (improperly  called  Muddy 
Bro()K,)  and  near  the  spot  where  a  bridge  crosses  the 
stream,  Capt.  Lothrop  was  ambushed  by  about  800 
Indians.  Ihe  place  was  then  a  marshy  piece  of 
ffround;  and  some  traces  of  the  road,  which  was 
Formed  of  logs,  are  still  to  be  seen,  running  through 
the  fields  without  crossing  at  the  bridge.  The  convoy 
halted  at  this  place ;  and  the  soldiers  were  generally 
engaged  in  gathering  grapes  from  the  vines  which  ran 
on  the  trees,  having  left  their  muskets  on  the  ground, 
when  the  Indians  tired  upon  them.  Capt.  Lothrop 
gave  orders  that  the  men  should  disperse,  and  fire 
from  behind  the  trees;  but  they  were  all  cut  off  except 
8  or  10.  This  massacre  was  one  of  the  most  calami' 
tous  which  ever  occurred  in  New-England,  taken  into 
view  with  the  small  number  of  innabitants  at  the 
time :  as  the  company  consisted  of  young  men  from 
the  principal  families  in  the  eastern  towns.  There  is 
a  stone  now  lying  near  the  fence,  west  of  the  brook, 
which  was  brought  there  some  years  since  for  a  monu- 
ment, but  not  raised. 

That  part  of  tbfi  meadow  we  pass  through  in  ap- 


■m  I 


!  « 


2U4 


liOUTK    LP    CONNECTICUT    RIVER. 


proachin^  Deerfield  was  the  scene  of  several  skir- 
rnishes  with  the  Indians  at  diflferent  times,  as  the  place 
was  a  frontier  for  many  years,  although  it  was  twice 
burned  and  deserted. 

Deerfield. 

In  1704,  which  was  the  period  of  its  last  destruction, 
a  large  body  ol'  Indians,  le«i  on  by  a  fev\  Frenchmen 
from  Canada,  came  upon  the  town  before  daylight. 
It  was  winter,  and  the  snow  crust  was  strong  enough 
to  bear  then* ;  they  had  secreted  themselves  on  a  hill 
north-west  from  Deerfield,  and  sent  in  a  scout.  The 
houses  were  all  entered  but  one,  the  inhabitants  made 
captives,  and  all,  except  a  few,  taken  off  to  Canada. 
One  of  the  houses  is  standing  at  this  day,  a  little  north 
of  the  church ;  and  the  hole  may  still  be  seen  in  the 
door,  which  the  Indians  hacked  with  their  tomahawks, 
and  then  fired  through,  as  well  as  the  marks  ol  several 
bullets  in  the  eastern  room,  one  ol  which  went  through 
the  neck  of  a  v>oman  and  killed  her.  A  young  man 
and  his  bride  leaped  from  a  window  of  the  chamber 
above;  and  though  the  latter  was  unable  to  walk,  in 
consequence  ot"  spraining  her  ancle,  the  former  fled,  at 
her  urgent  request,  and,  meeting  with  some  troops  on 
his  way,  brought  them  up  in  time  to  drive  off  the  In- 
dians, but  not  to  retake  any  of  the  captives. 

A  house  next  this  was  valiantly  detended  by  seven 
men  ;  and  the  dwelling  of  Mr.  Williams,  the  minister, 
was  taken,  and  he  and  his  family  carried  to  Canada. 
Most  of  the  people  were  ransomed ;  but  a  daughter  of 
Mr.  W.  became  attached  to  the  savage  life,  married  a 
chief,  and  left  children.  Mr.  Williams,  missionary  to 
the  Indians  at  Green  Bay,  was  one  of  her  descendants. 

Some  marks  of  the  old  picket  may  be  traced  in  the 
rear  of  the  house,  which  is  supposed  to  present  the 
same  appearance  as  in  old  time,  excepting  that  the 
kitchen,  &c.  have  since  been  built,  and  the  front  and 
rear  have  been  covere*^^ 


Tl.K^EA  S   FALLS. 


J28T/ 


i\  skii- 
le  place 
s  twice 


tructiop, 
iiichmen 
iay  light. 
r  enough 
on  a  hill 
ut.    The 
nts  made 
I  Canada, 
itlle  noilh 
en  in  ihe 
tiahawks, 
o!  several 
nt  through 
roung  man 
,  chamber 

0  walk,  in 
ner  fled,  at 

troops  on 
off  the  In- 

by  sever 
niinister, 

.^  Canada. 

laughter  of 

1  niarried  a 
tsionary  to 
[scendants. 
Iced  in  the 
Iresent  the 

that  the 
front  and 


There  is  an  academy  in  this  town,  but  it  is  not  in  a 
very  flourishing  condition. 

Last  from  this  place,  are  several  spurs  projecting 
from  the  hill,  on  one  of  which  was  formerly  a  fort, 
for  the  protection  of  the  Deerfield  Indians  against  the 
Mohawks. 

Greenfieldy  3  miles.  Here  the  stage  coach  passes 
on  a  road  from  Boston  to  Albany.  The  country  west 
is  highly  picturesque.  Just  south  of  the  town,  Deer- 
field  river  appears  to  have  at  some  period  formed  a 
lake- of  some  extent,  with  an  outlet  towards  the  east, 
where  its  channel  may  be  seen,  with  the  place  of  an 
old  cascade,  and  the  rocks  bored  out  by  the  rushing  of 
the  water.  The  channel  now  lies  through  a  deep  cut 
between  two  hills.  A  High  School,  for  young  ladies, 
was  established  here  in  1828. 

Turner^s  Falls  are  on  Connecticut  river,  two  or 
three  miles  east  from  Greenfield.  It  is  necessary  to 
leave  the  road  to  see  them  ;  but  they  are  of  consider- 
able height  and  beauty,  and  history  has  rendered  the 
place  memorable,  from  an  important  battle  fought 
there  towards  the  close  of  Philip*s  war.  The  way  by 
which  we  approach  is  nearly  over  the  same  ground, 
where  Capt.  Tuiner  marched,  with  his  body  of  men, 
in  the  year  1676,  when  he  went  to  attack  a  large  body 
of  Indians,  assembled  at  an  Indian  fort,  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  above  the  falls ;  and  by  which  he  also  returned, 
after  a  successful  battle,  pursued  by  his  surviving 
enemies. 

Philip,  having  been  driven  from  the  seacoast  and 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  English  settlements,  by  the 
active  operations  of  Capt.  Church,  Capt.  Mosely,  Capt. 
Wheeler,  &c.,  retired  with  some  of  his  followers  to 
the  Northfield  Indians,  who  held  a  position  on  a  sandy 
on  the  north  bank  of  the  river.    Here  he  was 


attacked  in  the  night  by  the  troops  under  Capt.  Tur- 
ner.  The  English  left  their  horses  on  i  bill,  which 
descends  to  a  brook  emptying  into  the  Connecticut 
VjIow  the  falls;   and  having  mounted  the  opposite 


Bh 


286 


ROtTE    Ur   CONNECTICUT   ElVKK. 


! 

I 


bank,  proceeded  near  where  the  present  road  lead?, 
and  marched  up  the  sandy  hill.  The  place  has  a 
swamp  on  two  sides,  and  the  river  on  the  fourth.  It 
is,  indeed,  overtopped  by  neighbouring:  hills ;  but 
cannon,  of  course,  were  out  of  the  question  in  such  a 
warfare.  The  Indians  had  held  a  feast  that  nisht,  a^ 
some  of  their  captives  afterward  reported,  and  were 
generally  asleep,  so  that  the  attack  of  the  white  men 
gave  them  a  panic,  and  they  fled  to  their  boats,  whicli 
they  launched  in  such  haste,  that  many  forgot  their 
paadles,  and  were  carried  over  the  falls.  The  rest, 
however,  rallied  before  their  enemies  were  out  of 
their  reach,  and  being  joined  by  some  from  the  island 
below  the  falls,  pursued  and  harassed  them  about  ten 
miles,  to  Deerfield.  Bones  are  occasionally  dug  up 
near  the  spot,  and  a  few  years  ago  the  remains  of  an 
old  musket,  a  few  silver  coins,  &c.  were  discovered 
among  the  rocks. 

This  was  the  last  and  most  severe  blow  Philip  re- 
ceived, before  he  returned  to  his  native  country  in 
Rhode  I>land,  where  he  soon  after  terminated  hh 
dangerous  life,  and  the  war,  which  brought  so  many 
calamities  upon  New-England. 

The  CanaL — A  dam  of  great  height  is  built  at  the 
falls,  to  supply  a  canal,  which  extends  two  or  three 
miles  for  boats  and  rafts.  Some  mills  are  also  esta- 
blished on  the  river's  bank.  The  fall  is  divided  by 
two  rude  rocks,  between  which  the  water  rushes  in 
separate  cataracts;  and  the  scenery  below  is  wild, 
and  not  a  little  imposing.  This  is  part  of  the  New- 
Haven  Greenstone  range,  and  there  are  two  veins  of 
copper  in  the  mountain  :  specimens  of  coal  have  been 
found.  There  is,  however,  no  inn  nearer  than  Green- 
field.] 

Bemardston,  8  miles  from  Greenfield. 

Vernon. — Within  the  limits  of  this  township,  whicli 
is  the  first  in  Vermont,  was  once  Fort  Drummer,  one 
of  a  chain  of  forts,  built  i'or  the  protection  of  the 
country  against  the  Canadian  Indians.     The  place  fo: 


>ome 
Numb 

after  a 
of  whi 
a  large 
mode  ( 
for  trar 
Brat 


WALrOLE. 


287 


aid  lead?, 
:e  has  a 
lurth.    It 
ills ;    but 
in  such  a 
night,  as 
and  were 
vhite  iiten 
its,  whidi 
rgot  iheir 
The  rest, 
ire  out  ol 
the  island 
1  about  ten 
ly  dug  up 
nains  of  an 
discovered 


some  years  ^v.is  known  on  the  river,  by  the  name  of 
Number  One,  being  the  first  of  four  townships. 

Pasiiin^  through  a  pretty  village,  with  several  mills, 
after  a  tew  miles  we  approach  Krattleborough,  south 
of  which,  east  of  the  roaa,  is  a  quarry,  which  furnishes 
a  large  quantity  of  slate ;  where  may  be  seen  the 
mode  of  quarrying,  splitting,  shaping,  and  packing  it 
for  transportation. 

Brattlehorough  is  a  very  pleasant  village,  situated 
on  an  elevated  plain  above  the  river,  which,  since  the 
draining  of  the  old  lake  in  this  place,  has  made  two 
or  three  successive  arches  north  of  the  town,  as  it  has 
gradually  lowered  its  channel  to  the  present  level. 
At  the  bridge,  over  a  small  stream,  are  several  manu- 
factories ;  and  in  the  village  is  a  large  and  comfortable 
stage  house,  whence  coaches  go  to  Boston,  as  well  as 
west,  north,  and  south. 

Westminster. — This  is  on  a  fine,  extensive  level ;  and 
on  the  high  land,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  is 

Walpole. — Connecticut  river  being  the  dividir^  line 
between  the  two  adjacent  states,  Walpole  is  in  New- 
Hampshire.  The  situation  is  very  commanding,  and 
the  summit  of  the  hill,  above  the  village,  affords  a  view 
of  unusual  extent  and  beauty.  There  is  a  spacious 
and  well-kept  inn  at  Walpole ;  and  stage  coaches  go 
bence  to  Boston,  &c.  It  will  be  found  the  best  place 
to  stop  at  between  Brattlehorough  and  Charlestown. 

Three  miles  north  is  the  farm  of  Col.  Bellows, 
which  contains  700  acres.  The  house  of  the  propri-. 
etor  enjoys  a  fine  situation  on  a  ridge  rising  from  the 
meadow,  near  whfre  stood  the  fort  erected  by  Col. 
Bellows,  when,  about  the  middle  of  the  last  century, 
the  place  was  occupied  and  a  settlement  begun  under 
the  name  of  Township  No.  3. 

The  changes  which  have  taken  place  in  the  channel 
of  the  river,  in  the  course  of  ages,  are  very  manifest 
in  passing  along  this  part  of  its  course,  particularly  by 
the  western  bank  :  in  one  place,  which  is  now  perhaps 
100  feet  above  the  present  level  of  the  water,  the 


288 


liOUTE    Ul»   COX?fi:CTICUT    KIVEK. 


I 


current  appears  once  to  have  flowed,  and  to  have 
formed  the  cataract,  which  'ws  now  retired  a  mile  or 
more  to  the  north. 

Bellows' s  Falls, — The  heis^ht  of  this  fall  is  inconside- 
rable, but  it  is,  on  <he  whole,  a  striking  object;  sur- 
rounded by  rocky  banks,  and  havinjE^  an  abrupt  moun- 
tain on  the  eastern  side.  The  place  has  also  been 
much  ornamented  by  art ;  for,  besides  the  village,  with 
its  neat  white  houses  and  handsome  church,  a  canal 
has  been  dug  round  the  falls,  a  bridge  thrown  over 
them,  and  the  rugged  side  of  the  mountain  decorated 
with  a  handsome  country  seat. 

The  rocks  are  of  the  most  firm  and  solid  gray  gra- 
nite, but  are  much  cut  by  the  force  of  the  current.  In 
some  places  holes  have  oeen  bored  into  them  perpen- 
dicularly, two  or  three  feet  in  diameter,  and  12  or  even 
18  feet  deep.  This  is  done  by  the  motion  given  to 
loose  stones  by  the  eddies  of  the  stream,  and  the  gra- 
dual enlargement  of  the  bore  sometimes  breaks  off 
great  masses  of  the  rock.  These  falls  were  once  the 
iavourite  resort  of  Indians  during  the  fishing  season. 
On  the  rock  just  below  the  bridge  are  some  remains 
of  their  rude  attempts  at  sculpture,  which  represent 
the  form  of  human  faces ;  and  from  one  on  the  end  of 
the  stone,  which  appears  to  have  suffered  less  from  the 
attrition  of  the  floods,  it  would  seem  as  if  they  might 
once  have  been  more  finished  specimens  of  sculpture 
than  they  now  appear,  as  that  presents  considerable 
prominency  and  beaufy  of  execution. 

The  Hunt  Farm  is  about  3^  miles  from  the  falls, 
and  is  a  large  and  valuable  estate,  the  meadows  being' 
rich  and  beautiful  in  the  extreme.  The  house  and 
other  buildings  are  large;  but  the  establishment  is 
not  conducted  on  such  a  plan  as  would  gratify  an  agri- 
culturist. 

Charlestown. — This  is  one  of  the  prettiest  little  vil- 
lages in  New-England  :  having  a  wide  street,  partly 
;?haded  with  trees,  and  lined  with  neat  houses,  many 


^!*  a  fine 
^^iluation, 
•^ide  of  th 
kept  by 
'louses 
*^tate  PriJ 
This  Ja 


i\ 


WIN1>S0R. 


'28l^> 


0  have 
mile  or 

ionside- 
ct ;  sur- 
it  moun- 
so  been 
ige,  with 
^  a  canal 
wn  over 
.ecorated 

rray  gra- 
rent.    In 

1  perpen- 

2  or  even 
given  to 

d  the  gra- 
breaks  off 
i  once  the 
ng  season, 
le  remains 
represent 
the  end  of 
s  from  the 
hey  might 
■  sculpture 
insiderable 


ol  which  speak  the  taste,  as  well  as  the  easy  circum- 
stances, of  their  proprietors. 

This  was  called  Township  No.  4.  The  fort,  built 
for  the  defence  of  the  place  in  1743,  stood  on  the 
gently  rising  ground  a  little  south  of  the  churc  h,  where 
the  street  runs :  but  not  a  veslie^e  of  it  is  to  be  disco- 
vered. It  was  most  gallantly  detiended  by  Capt.  Ste- 
vens, in  1747,  against  a  large  number  of  French  and 
Indians  :  although  repeatedly  called  upon  to  surrender, 
the  garrison  persisted  in  the  defence,  disrging  into  the 
ground  to  shelter  themselves  from  the  enemy's  fire, 
and,  after  several  days,  succeeded  in  driving  them 
away.     Capt.  S.  received  a  sword  for  his  bravery. 

Jarvis^s  Farm  at  Wethersfield  Bow,  on  the  west 
side  of  the  river,  is  very  extensive,  and  contains  a 
number  of  larse  building  for  dwellings,  barns,  stables, 
&c.,  principally  of  brick.  The  land  is  generally 
fenced  with  the  roots  of  pine  trees,  dragged  from  the 
ground,  by  which  the  soil  is  rendered  fit  lor  immediate 
cultivation,  and  unencumbered.  The  proprietor  of 
this  farm  is  also  the  possessor  of  a  large  part  of  the 
township  besides,  and  is  very  wealthy. 

The  roid  beyond  aflfords  some  romantic  scenes. 
The  hills  approach  the  river  very  nearly,  and  several 
views  are  caught  between  them,  of  the  mountain 
behind  Windsor,  which  is  about  2000  feet  in  height, 
and  divided  into  three  peaks,  whence,  it  is  said,  it 
derived  the  name  of  Ascutney,  which,  in  the  Indian 
language,  means  three  brothers. 

WINDSOR 

is  a  fine  and  flourishing  town,  in  a  very  picturesque 
situation,  particularly  when  viewed  from  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river ;  and  contains  a  good  stage  house, 
kept  by  Pettes,  a  number  of  stores,  some  elegant 
houses,  two  or  three  handsome  churches,  and  the 
^tate  Prison. 
This  latter  building  is  of  granite,  on  the  hill  jn  the 


sya 


SOUTK    VV   CONNECTICUT    KIVKK. 


'I  . 


western  part  of  the  town.  It  is  planned  after  the  oia 
and  ill-devised  system,  (see  pages  123  and  263,)  but 
has  one  thing  in  its  construction  worthy  of  imitation : 
the  stones  are  secured  against  removal,  by  havine  six> 
pound  cannon  shot  placed  between  them,  holes  being 
cut  into  the  stones  to  receive  them.  In  1828,  there 
were  123  convicts,  who  reimbursed,  chiefly  by  weaving, 
nearly  all  the  expenses.     It  is  to  be  enlarged. 

Mount  AsciUney, — A.  great  part  of  the  way  up  this 
mountain  a  road  has  been  cut,  and  the  traveller  will  be 
richly  rewarded  for  the  labour  of  his  ascent.  From 
the  nature  of  the  soil,  he  cannot,  indeed,  expect  to 
behold  a  scene  like  that  from  Mount  Hulyoke ;  but 
there  is  a  great  deal  that  is  fine  in  the  appearance  ot 
the  surrounding  country,  rough,  and  interspersed  with 
villages  and  cultivated  tracts,  with  the  Connecticut 
winding  through  it. 

Sumner's  bridge,  four  miles  above,  was  injured  by 
the  great  flood  of  1828. 

The  Gulp  Road. 

Those  who  are  going  westward  from  this  part  of 
the  river,  are  counselled  to  take  the  Gulf  Road  to 
Burlington,  on  Lake  Champlain,  to  which  a  stage 
coach  runs.  Although  the  route  is  through  the  chain 
of  the  Green  Mountains,  the  way  is  remarkably  smooth 
and  easy,  following  the  courses  of  the  White  and  On- 
ion  rivers,  which  have  cut  deep  channels  through  the 
rocks.  You  have,  however,  first  to  go  16  miles  aJong 
the  western  bank  of  the  Connecticut  to 

White  River, — Here  great  quantities  of  lumber  are 
brought  down,  sawed  on  the  stream,  and  sent  by  the 
Connecticut  in  rafts  to  the  country  below.  Dartmouth 
College,  at  Hanover,  is  five  miles  north,  and  those  who 
are  going  to  the  White  Mountains,  will  of  course 
pursue  that  route  {see  ».  294)  ;  but  the  following  de- 
viation is  made  for  those  who  are  going  to  Lake 
Champlain. 


'  1^ 
banl 
ingi 
tbei 
fertii 
Conr 
cbosf 
with 


I  HE   GLU'    UOAIK 


^d\ 


'  the  old 
163,)  but 
uitation : 
vine  six- 
es oeing 
128,  there 
weaving, 

I. 

y  up  this 
ler  will  be 
it.  From 
expect  to 
roke ;  but 
jarance  ot 
2rsed  with 
onnecticut 

iniuTed  by 


his  part  ot 
If  Road  to 
;h  a  stage 
i  the  chain 
^bly  smooth 
ite  and  On- 
through  the 
Imiles  along 


^  tThc  road  up  the  White  River  lies  aloujij  the  north 
bank,  and  passes  through  several  beautiful  and  flourish' 
ing  villages.  The  valley,  though  narrow,  is  formed  of 
the  richest  soil,  and  wears  the  same  aspect*  in  form, 
fertility,  and  population,  with  the  meadows  of  the 
Connecticut.  This  was  one  of  the  courses  formerly 
chosen  by  ihe  Indians  of  the  north  in  their  commerce 
with  those  on  the  borders  of  that  river,  before  the 
arrival  of  Europeans;  and,  with  the  exception  of  a 
short  portage,  between  the  White  and  Onion  rivers, 
they  brought  their  furs  from  Canada  by  water.  Du- 
ring the  'ndian  and  French  wars,  this  route  was  fre- 
quently used  for  more  hostile  purposes ;  and  captives 
were  taken  from  these  settlements  so  late  as  the  Kevo- 
lutionary  war.  The  scenery  is  interesting  and  various 
all  along  the  route. 

Roydton^  a  pretty  village.  This  place  was  bumed« 
Oct.  16th,  1781,  by  300  men,  principally  Indians,  who 
came  down  from  Canada.  They  killed  two  men  and 
took  away  six  prisoners  to  Montreal. 

Randolph  is  considered  one  of  the  most  beautifuii 
towns  in  Vermont,  and  a  stage  coach  likewise  passes 
that  way. 

Gulf, — The  entrance  of  this  remarkable  passage 
from  the  east,  is  under  the  brow  of  an  abmpt  moun- 
tain, wheie  a  branch  of  While  River  flows  along  by 
the  road  in  a  gentle  current,  quite  inadequate  in  its 
present  condition  to  such  effects  as  it  has  produced  at 
some  former  period,  in  parting  this  enornious  barrier. 
It  was  not,  however,  by  the  gradual  action  of  a  di- 
minutive stream  like  this,  even  when  increased  by  the 
annual  floods,  that  such  changes  were  made ;  but  by 
the  pressure  of  a  lake  confined  among  the  mountains, 
which  here  first  found  a  channel. 

The  Gulf  road  extends  6  miles,  and  the  ground  is 
so  level  that  it  has  been  proposed  to  make  it  the  course 
of  a  canal.  On  the  height  of  land  is  a  pond»  from 
which  flows  a  stream  into  the  valley.  Part  of  it  joins 
Ae  White  River,  aiad  part  the  Onion  River. 


I'  ■  '  .    . 


•J92 


ROl  ri:    LP    CONNECTICUT    JllVKK. 


I 

( 

I 


Montpeher  is  the  capital  of  Vermont,  and  a  very 

5retty  town.  It  contains  the  State  House,  a  Court 
louse,  an  Academy,  and  other  public  buildings.* 

A  survey  has  lately  been  completed,  of  Onfon  River, 
from  Lake  Champlain,  at  Burlington,  to  Montpelier,a 
distance  of  38  miles.  It  is  ascertained  that  a  canal 
may  be  made  on  three  levels,  the  amount  of  fall  at 
three  points  being  394  feet.  The  height  of  Lake 
Champlain  above  the  Hudson  river,  at  Albany,  is  86 
feet.  The  elevation  from  Montpelier  towards  the 
Connecticut  River,  to  Onion  River  Pond,  was  found 
to  be  877  feet,  and  the  fall  thence  to  the  mouth  of 
Wells  River  on  the  Connecticut,  918  feet,  mftkir}*^  the 
whole  lockage  from  Lake  Champlain  to  the  Connecti- 
cut 2189  feet.  By  another  route  through  Dog  River, 
where  there  is  a  less  abundant  supply  of  water,  and 
White  River,  to  the  mouth  of  the  latter,  the  lockage 
is  1468  feet. 

From  Montpelier  to  Burlington,  U\fi  road  pursues 
the  course  of  Onion  River  nearly  the  whole  distance, 
and  affords  a  succession  of  i  illy  and  mountainous  sce- 
nery, such  as  is  characteristic  of  the  state.  The  river 
is  m  many  places  .smooth  and  gentle,  though  occa- 
sionally interrupted  by  falls  and  rapids. 

*  Hifitorij  of  the  State.~TUe.  first  discovery  of  V  mont  was  made  in 
1609, 1)}/  Samuel  Champlain,  wlio  after  establishing  a  colony  at  Quebec, 
proceeriins*  up  the  rivers  St.  Fiawrotice  and  Sort-!,  explon^d  and  cave  his 
own  name  to  the  lake  which  washes  tl",  western  part  of  liie  state,  in 
1724,  the  trnverntnent  of  JVlassacimselts  erected  Fort  Dumuier,  in  the 
town  of  Hrattlvhiironcth,  oil  Connecticut  river.  The  first  settlement  in 
the  western  part  of  the  slate  was  commenced  hy  the  French  in  J731,  in 
the  town  of  Addison,  and  at  the  same  time  tliey  erected  a  fort  at  Crown 
Point.  The  govermnent  of  New  llampsliire  began  to  make  grants  of 
towsiships  within  the  present  limits  of  Vermont  in  1749,  at  which  time 
the  .^settlement  of  Hennington  wms  commenced,  and  at  the  same  time  a 
violent  controvorsy  ensued  lietween  the  rCew-IIampslure  graius  and  tlie 
province  of  New-York.  The  first  convonfion  of  the  state  met  at  Dor- 
pet,  in  1776,  and  the  lir.st  constitution  was  adopted  hy  a  convention  as 
■emhled  at  Windsor  in  July,  J777,  butitie  organization  of  the  govern- 
jnent  did  not  take  place  until  March.  1778. 

The  ditficulties  hetweeu  Vermont  nnd  New- York  were  amicably  fff 
fed  in  1790,  and  the  next  year  she  was  admitted  into  tlie  confederacy  m 
the  states. 

In  April,  18^,  there  were  fen  banks  in  Vermont,  with  ,«!ni9,^4  in  »'"^- 
cnlatioM  in  notes. 


On 

Water 

the  ro; 

by  tak 

of  a  w 

betwe< 

Lower 

broken 

the  cha 

large  jx 

side  to  s 

ses  and 

before  i 

which  I 

mouth  i, 

bear  a  c 

Burlii 

ioys  one 

The  rid^ 

built,  coi 

the  nurn 

shores,  a 

led    In. 

land;    aj 

dens  of 

ground. 

The  St 
and  St.  J 
veller   is 
the  lake 
fut  river. 


This  vj 

•♦'  the  <ipr> 


MVlNOVEK. 


i  very 

Court 

.  * 

I  River, 
)erier,  a 
a  canal 
f  fall  at 
>f  Lake 
y,  is  86 
rds  the. 
as  four.d 
nouth  of 
kin^  the 
^onnecti- 
g  River, 
ater,  and 
lockage 

I  pursues 
distance, 
inous  sce- 
The  river 
ugh  occa- 


|was  made  in 

liy  at  a»«l)ec, 
and  cave  \w 
he  slate.    In 

niuer,  in  tin; 

isottleinpnt  in 
^h  in  1731,  in 
fort  at  Crown 
ikc  grants  d 
It  vvliicli  i\mc 
!  same  time  a 
rants  and  tl»' 
ie  n'.et  at  Doi- 
nnventliin  av 
|)t'  ilie  t^nvcrn- 

lamicably  ff^\ 
confederacy  01 

> 


On  tlie  road  fronn  Montpelior  ^re  two  remarkable 
Water  Falls,  in  the  Onion  liiver.  They  are  so  near 
the  road  that  they  will  be  heard  in  passinj^,  and  soon 
by  taking  a  few  steps.  The  Upper  Fall  is  in  the  midst 
of  a  wild  scene,  the  water  pourmg  over  broken  rocks, 
between  two  high  and  perpendicular  banks.  The 
Lorjoer  Fall  is  of  a  peculiar  character  :  the  stream  is 
broken  into  foam,  and  rushes  with  great  rapidity  ;  yet 
the  channel  is  obstructed  in  such  a  manner  by  several 
large  rocks,  that  the  stream  is  turned  alternately  fnm 
side  to  side,  being  dashed  with  violence  against  their  ba- 
ses and  thus  forced  into  a  zig  zag  course.  A  few  miles 
before  reaching  Burlington,  the  road  leaves  the  river, 
which  bends  away  further  towards  the  north.  At  its 
mouth  is  an  extensive  and  fertile  meadows,  which  may 
bear  a  comparison  with  those  on  the  Connecticut. 

Burlington  is  a  large  and  beautiful  town,  and  en- 
joys one  of  the  finest  situations  on  Lake  Champlain. 
The  ridge  of  the  hill,  on  the  declivity  of  which  it  is 
built,  commands  an  extensive  view  upon  the  lake,  with 
the  numerous  mountains,  which  border  its  western 
shores,  and  a  lar^e  expanse  of  water  on  the  right  and 
left.  Immediately  below  is  the  bay,  bounded  by  high 
land;  and  the  elegant  dwellings  and  beautiful  gar- 
dens of  the  wealthier  inhabitants,  ornament  the  fore- 
ground. 

The  Steamboats  stop  here  on  their  way  to  Whitehall 
and  St.  John's  (the  route  to  Montreal ;)  and  the  tra- 
veller is  referred  to  the  Index  lor  the  objects  on 
the  lake  in  those  directions.  \Returmng  to  Connecii- 
rut  river.] 

IIanovek. 

This  village,  21  mile«  above  Windsor,  is  remarkable 
-^«  the  «ORt  of 


m 


ffij^iiai 


29  \ 


liOUTE    IP    CONNECTICUT    RIVER. 


DARTMOUTH  COLLEGE, 

an  institution  which  holds  a  very  respectable  rank  for 
iearninp:  and  influence,  the  number  of  its  pupils,  and 
the  ability  of  i^s  officers.  It  was  founded  for  the  edu- 
cation of  Indians,  an  I  was  named  after  William,  Earl 
of  Dartmouth.  It  possesses  a  large  tract  of  land, 
which,  however,  is  unproductive  ;  and  the  college 
building,  which  is  of  wood,  and  not  inhabited  by  the 
students,  has  an  aspect  of  decay.  The  chapel  is  also 
of  wood  ;  but  several  of  the  houses  about  the  p;reen 
are  very  neat,  and  the  ground  being  elevated,  the  place 
is  very  pleasant.  The  bills  for  tuition  here  are  g33  a 
year. 

The  Medical  Institution  is  a  brick  building,  a  little 
north  from  the  square.  The  rnjmber  of  scholars  in 
the  college  is  generally  about  140. 

The  road  between  Hanover  and  Haverhill,  28  miles, 
presents  few  objects  of  much  interest ;  the  country 
not  being  thickly  populated,  and  no  villages  inter- 
vening, except  Oxford,  which  has  several  very  neat 
houses. 

Opposite  Hanover,  in  Norwich,  Vt.  is  a  Military 
and  Literary  Academy,  established  by  Capt.  Par- 
tridge, which  is  continued  since  his  removal  to  middle- 
town,  Ct. 

The  Str afford  Copperas  Works  are  nine  miles  north 
of  Norwich.  One  of  the  buildings  is  267  feet  long.  The 
ore  is  pyrites,  taken  trom  a  stratum  in  a  hill  overlaid 
by  a  crust  of  frruginous  earth  containing  petrified 
leaves,  &c.  The  ore  is  broken  and  thrown  mto  heaps, 
for  about  two  months,  when  it  gradually  undergoes  a 
chymical  change,  emitting  spontaneous  fire  and  fumes 
of  sulptiur.  It  is  then  leached  in  tubs,  and  the  water, 
after  boiling,  yields  crystals  of  copperas,  of  a  rhombic 
form  and  a  beautiful  green  colour.  The  manufacto- 
ries produce  about  10.000  tons  annually.    , 


I'lie 

ern  on 

there  ; 

and  ov 

(Wstant 

Mounta 

serve  a; 

we  are 

Onth 

the  trai 

Spring 

baths. 

an  agrsc 

siters.     j 

pie,  and 

it.     The 

incurred, 

The  C 

'>00  acres 

^rn  bank. 

fias  recer 

's  ^ne  an( 

^^^eni  of 

that  of  H 

belonging 

may  be  ir 

able  a  tra 

^  M  BatI 

^ayson,  a^ 

From  B 

roads,  one 

latent,  am 

Umi  11.  A.  Ct 


IIAVEJKUILL. 


2'J, 


ink  lor 
lis,  and 
he  edu- 
m,  Earl 
)f  land, 
colle?;e 
I  by  the 
;l  is  also 
le  fijreen 
he  place 
je  $33  a 


r,  a  little 


Haverhill. 

There  are  three  villages  in  this  town,  but  the  north- 
ern one  is  where  the  Boston  road  comes  in,  and  where 
there  are  two  good  inns.  The  situation  is  elevated, 
and  overlooks  the  meadows  for  some  distance.  The 
distant  scene.y  is  here  very  fine,  as  M(v::»ehillock 
Mountain  and  several  others  are  in  plain  view,  and 
serve  as  an  introduction  to  the  White  Mounioins,  which 
we  are  approaching. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  Pier,n(mt,  (and 
the  traveller  may  cross  or  not,)  where  is  a  Sulphur 
Spring  of  some  local  celebrity,  with  a  building  for 
baths.  Some  distance  soutli  of  it  is  a  large  house,  in 
an  agreeable  situation,  i()r  the  accommodation  of  vi- 
siters. It  is  capable  of  receiving  a  great  marjy  peo- 
ple, and  has  a  garden  and  pleasant  rustic  walks  about 
it.  The  ^tables  are  large,  and  great  expense  had  been 
incurred,  which  has  yet  been  ill  repaid. 

The  Great  Ox-bow  is  a  meadow  containing  about 
500  acres,  Ijnng  in  the  town  of  Piermont  on  the  west- 
ern bank,  and  in  the  form  of  a  crescent.  An  iron  mine 
has  recently  been  discovered  in  this  town.  The  soil 
is  fine  and  valuable  ;  but  from  the  comparatively  small 
extent  of  the  meadow,  it  cannof  be  conipared  with 
that  of  Hadley.  There  are  two  or  three  houses  seen, 
belonging  to  the  family  of  the  first  settler,  who,  as 
may  be  imagined,  soon  acquired  wealth  from  so  valu- 
able a  tract  of  land. 

At  Bath  is  the  handsome  residence  of  Hon.  M.  P. 
Payson,  and  an  excellent  inn  kept  by  Carleton. 

From  Bath  to  the  White  Mountains^  there  are  two 
roads,  one  of  which  turns  otf  throng;h  Lisbon,  Little- 
ton,* Bethlehem,  Breton  Woods,  Nash  and  Sawyer's 
Patent,  and  Shadbourn  and  Hart's  Patent. 

*  At  Littleton  is  an  excellent  iim.  Distance  from  Hanover,  (JO  miles ; 
iiuui  v..  A.  Cruwibitl's.  l?'. 


'ill.' " ( 


2^ 


KOUTE    VV   CONAECriCtT    RiVi^U. 


Such  is  the  wildness  of  the  country,  that  we  can  da 
little  more  than  enumerate  the  places.  The  road  is 
new,  in  many  places  rocky^  and  \n  others  rough,  on  ac- 
count of  the  logs  which  have  been  laid  down  to  sup- 
port it,  and  the  remains  of  the  stumps  of  trees.  But 
it  is  more  direct  and  much  less  mountainous,  than  that 
which  passes  through  Lancaster.  It  does  not,  how- 
ever, afford  that  fine  view  of  the  Connecticut  Valley, 
nor  of  the  ranges  of  mountains  which  there  surround 
it,  like  a  magnificent  amphitheatre. 

Franconia,  This  is  a  secluded  village  among  the 
mountains,  5  miles  from  Bethlehem,  where  iron  is  ma- 
nufactured to  a  considerable  extent.  It  is  at  the  foot 
of  Haystack  Mountain,  which  is  about  half-way  be- 
tween Mount  Washington  and  Moosehillock — 20  miles 
from  each.  Gibbs  Keeps  an  excellent  inn  at  this 
place  ;  and  the  stage  coach  passes  twice  a  week,  on 
the  road  to  Concord  and  Boston  by  Plymouth,  N.  H. 
The  situation  of  the  village,  which  contains  8  or  10 
families,  is  highly  romantic,  and  it  presents  m3ny  fine 
points  of  view.  The  Iron  Mine  is  entered  by  a  large 
cavern,  and  is  worthy  of  a  visit. 

The  Haystack  may  be  ascended  by  any  traveller 
disposed  for  arduous  enterprijes  of  this  description  : 
but  it  is  not  recommended  in  preference  to  the  ascent 
of  Mount  Washington,  which  is  rather  less  difficult. 
A  footpath  turns  off  from  the  road  about  6  miles  from 
Franconia,  which  conducts  to  the  summit,  3  miles. 
The  first  two  miles  are  through  thick  hemlock,  hac- 
metac,  spruce,  kc,  then  ^  mile  stunted  trees,  and  the 
rest  bare  rocks.  Near  the  spot  where  the  path  begins 
is  a  remarkable  Lusus  Natures,  formed  by  a  rock  or> 
the  side  of  a  mountain,  which  bears  a  resemblance  to 
the  iiuman  face  in  profile.  This  eminence,  called 
Profile  Mvuntain,  is  4  miles  south  of  the  lower  iron 
works.  The  forest  shrubbery  extends  to  the  margin  ot 
the  bare  rocks  much  in  the  proportion  of  the  bust  of  a 
man.  It  is  called  the  "  Ola  Man  of  the  Mountain.^' 
The  precipice  i'"  BOO  or  1000  feet  high,  and  ri^es  t'roin 


ihe  sid( 
wasset 
tainous, 
counted 
view  fn 
fains,  w 
mouth 
lanches 


Entering 
boat,)  on 
of  Gen.  > 
The  shore 
boats  (call 
nuinbers. 

Fort  Tr 
risoned  by 
voji'tionarj 
'?^old,  whic 
'ng  up  the 
*''e  banks 


NK\\-l.Ui\i)6.N 


:2J^ 


can  do 
road  is 
I,  on  ac- 
to  sup- 
s.  But 
:ian  that 
>t,  how- 
Valley, 
surround 

long  the 
an  is  iia- 
.  the  loot 
way  be- 
-20  miles 
1  at  this 
week,  on 
h,  N.  H. 
8  or  10 
m3ny  fine 
)y  a  large 

traveller 
scription : 
le  ascent 
difficult, 
liles  from 
3  miles, 
ock,  hac- 
f  and  the 
th  begins 
a  rock  on 
blance  to 
;e,  called 
wer  iron 
margin  ot 
;  bust  of  a 
ountairi' 
i*e3  troTt; 


ihe  side  of  a  pond,  which  is  a  source  of  the  Pemige- 
wasset  river.  The  neighbouring  region  is  so  moun- 
tainous, that  more  than  fifty  peaks,  it  is  said,  may  be 
counted  from  the  top  of  tne  Haystack.  Indeed  the 
view  from  that  eminence  embraces  nothii^  but  moun- 
tains, with  here  and  there  a  cleared  spot  on  the  Ply- 
mouth road,  and  numerous  marks  of  slides  or  ava- 
lanches made  by  the  inundation  in  1826. 

Lancaster 

is  a  very  pleasant  town,  and  the  last  on  the  river  which 
merits  that  name.  The  surrounding  mountains  form  a 
noble  scene,  superior  to  every  other  of  this  nature 
along  its  course. 

The  Canada  line  is  only  40  miles  north,  and  lies 
along  the  Connecticut.  The  following  are  the  towns 
and  best  inns;  (Marshal's  and  Eames')  Northumber- 
land ;  (Porter's)  in  Stratford ;  (Mahurin's)  Columbia  ; 
(Chamberlain's)  Colebrook ;  and  the  last  stage  (Col. 
Eames')  Stewartsiown. 

[Havmg  now  completed  the  route  up  Connecticut 
River,  we  return  to  Long  Island  Sound.  For  other 
routes  and  places,  see  Ir«dex.]| 

NEW-LONDON,  CONNECTICUT. 

Entering  New-London  Harbour,  (in  a  N.  Y.  steam- 
boat,) on  the  left  is  the  Lighthouse,  and  the  dwelling 
of  Gen.  North,  once  aid-de-camp  to  Baron  Steuben. 
The  shore  beyond  is  inhabited  by  fishermen,  whose 
boats  (called  smacks)  are  generally  to  be  seen  in  great 
niHnbers. 

Fori  Trumbull  occupies  a  point  beyond,  and  is  gar- 
lisoned  by  the  United  States.  It  was  taken  in  the  re- 
volntionary  war,  as  well  as  the  town,  and  Fort  Gris' 
wold,  which  stands  on  the  high  hill  opposite.  Look- 
'^ng  up  the  River  Thames,  the  prospect  is  handsome* 
<be  banks  being^  hieh  and  cultivated,  and  backed  by 


Mi 


"§^m 


'2[)'^ 


KOLTi:    riiOM.    xNJiW-lORK    To    iiOofOA. 


Morton's  Hill  several  miles  distant,  in  the  Moheagaii 
country. 

The  harbour  of  New-London  is  one  of  the  most 
accessible,  safe,  and  commodious  in  the  United  States, 
lying  near  the  Ocean  and  the  Sound,  almost  surrounded 
by  high  land,  and  having  v^ater  enough  for  ships  of 
war  quite  up  to  the  w^harves,  with  a  fine  sandy  bot- 
tom near  the  shores.  Unfortunately,  however,  there 
is  no  convenient  communication  far  into  the  countrj'^, 
and  the  region  about  it  is  far  from  being  fertile,  so 
that  the  place  can  never  attain  much  importance.  It 
serves  in  some  degree  as  the  port  of  Connecticut  River, 
because  there  is  no  good  harbour  there ;  and  a  great 
deal  of  trade  was  carried  on  with  the  West  Indies  a 
few  years  ago. 

New-London  is  the  third  town  in  Connecticut  for  the 
number  of  inhabitants,  and  like  several  of  the  other 
principal  places,  although  so  small,  enjoys  the  pri- 
vileges of  a  city.  It  is  situated  irregularly,  princi- 
pally at  the  foot  of  a  hill  facing  the  east,  and  wears  an 
appearance  of  decline ;  but  some  of  the  houses  are 
handsome,  and  there  are  several  fine  situations  near 
the  top  of  the  hill. 

There  is  a  road  hence  to  Providence,  and  another 
from  Norwich,  (13  miles  up  the  Thames,)  both  equally 
uninteresting,  and  nearly  of  equal  length.  The  river, 
however,  affords  some  very  pretty  scenes,  and  Nor- 
wich is  a  neat  and  interesting  town.  The  prices  have 
hitherto  been  nearly  the  same  for  the  two  routes. 

Fort  Griswoldi  opposite  New-London,  was  garri- 
soned by  a  few  continental  troops  in  the  year  1781,  in 
the  Revolution,  when  Benedict  Arnold,  after  his  trea- 
cherous desertion  of  the  American  cause,  appeared  off 
the  harbour  with  a  British  force  on  the  6lh  of  Sep- 
tember ;  and  landing  800  men  on  each  point  of  the 
harbour,  marched  up  and  took  Fort  Trumbull,  and 
burnt  the  tov\n.  Col.  Eyre,  who  commanded  the 
troops  on  tlie  eastern  shore.,  proceeded  towards  For' 


(j'ris\) 

surrer 

Bui 

fort,  £ 

volunt 

troops 

vested 

selves 

and  fii 

been  e 

and  m( 

Ayres, 

mery  ] 

sacre  o 

est  disg 

being  i\ 

lies.     ]\ 

most  ba 

rolled  d 

the  fort. 

by  subsi 

an  obeli 

The( 

be  takei 


Fort 

east  fron 

quod  Fo 

road  cro 

a  small 

the  exte 

work. 

nation,  w 

early  his 

their  wa^ 

the  prese 

^'"^in*;  of 


THE   PEQUODif. 


291) 


)beagaii 

je  most 
I  States, 
rounded 
ships  of 
idy  bot- 
er,  there 
country, 
ertile,  so 
ince.  It 
ut  River, 
d  a  great 
Indies  a 

:utforthe 
the  other 
5  the  pri- 
y,  princi- 
1  wears  an 
louses  are 
it  ions  near 

id  another 
)th  equally 
The  river, 
,  and  Nor- 
)rices  have 
outes. 

as  garri- 
|ar  1781,  in 
r  his  trea- 
ipeared  off 
Ih  of  Sep- 
loint  of  the 

jbull,  and 
landed  the 

ards  For* 


(jiriswold,  and  sending  in  a  flag  of  truce,  demanded  a 
surrender. 

But  before  this  time,  Col.  Ledyard  had  entered  the 
fort,  and  garrisoned  it  with  120  men,  chiefly  militia 
volunteers  from  the  neighbourhood.  The  British 
troops  had  advanced  under  cover  of  a  wood,  and  in- 
vested the  fort ;  but  the  Americans  defended  them- 
selves for  some  time,  beating  off  their  enemies  once, 
and  finally  surrendered,  when  resistance  would  havft 
been  entirely  useh'ss.  The  enemy  had  lost  41  oflicers 
and  men,  who  were  buried  near  the  spot ;  with  Col. 
Ayres,  the  commander,  wounded,  and  Maj.  Montgo- 
mery killed.  After  the  surrender,  however,  a  mas- 
sacre of  the  prisoners  took  place,  which  cast  the  deep- 
est disgrace  on  the  expedition :  70  officers  and  men 
being  the  victims,  most  of  whom  were  heads  of  fami- 
lies. Many  of  the  wounded  were  also  treated  in  a 
most  barbarous  manner,  being  placed  in  a  cart,  and 
rolled  down  the  hill  just  south  of  the  present  road  to 
the  fort.  Arrangements  have  been  made  for  building 
by  subscription  a  monument  on  the  spot.  It  is  to  be 
an  obelisk,  120  feet  high,  to  cost  about  $14,000. 

The  objects  on  the  Thames,  at  Norwich,  &c.  will 
be  taken  up  on  page  301. 

Road  from  New  ho^Bo^i  to  Providence- 

Fort  Hill  is  a  commanding  eminence,  about  4  miles 
east  from  this  place,  and  derives  its  name  from  a  Pe- 
quod  Fort,  which  formerly  occupied  its  summit.  The 
road  crosses  it  near  the  southern  limit  of  the  fort,  and 
a  small  church  stands  a  quarter  of  a  mile  above,  within 
the  extensive  space  once  enclosed  by  that  palisaded 
work.  It  was  the  great  fortress  of  the  terrif»le  Pequod 
nation,  which  makes  a  very  conspicuous  figure  in  the 
early  history  of  the  eastern  colonies.  They  had  fought 
their  way  from  the  interior,  and  seated  themselves  in 
the  present  limits  of  Groton,  where  the  few  poor  re- 
"Ti^^in^;  of  their  descendants  still  are  found.     On  the 


';'tj 


:  mm 


iiOQ        liOLltl-  lOiOlU   ;XEW-iORK    TU   BOSTON. 


i 


arrival  of  the  English,  Uhey  had  extended  their  con 
quests  a  considerable  distance  up  Connecticut  River, 
»iid  the  Eastern  and  Western  Nehantics  on  the  coast 
were  subject  to  them. 

"  In  consequence  of  the  murders  they  had  committed, 
and  the  attacks  with  which  they  threatened  the  infant 
settlements  at  Hartford,  Windsor,  and  Wethersfield, 
the  inhabitants  formed  an  expedition  in  the  spring:  oi 
1637,  led  by  Capt.  Mason,  attacked  their  other  fort  on 
the  My<<t^r,  burnt  it,  and  killed  about  600  persons  : 
aftf  "hich  the  nation  fled  from  their  country  ;  and  hav- 
ing: '  'er  «'  another  terrible  slaughter  in  the  swamp  at 
Fairh.lJ  (;:•  ••  that  place)  were  reduced  to  slavery, 
and  ceased  tioiii  that  time  to  be  an  object  of  terror. 

This  hill  commands  an  extensive  and  delightful 
view,  being  almost  entirely  clear  of  obstructions,  and 
being  superior  in  height  to  the  neighbouring  hills.  A 
considerable  extent  of  Long  Island  and  the  Sojnd  are 
overlooked  from  the  summit,  with  various  islands,  bays, 
and  points  on  the  Connecticut  coast.  At  the  time  ot 
the  burning  of  Mystic  Fort,  it  was  occupied  by  the 
chief  Sachem  Sassacus,  who  hastened  to  the  rehsf  ot 
his  subjects,  but  arrived  too  late  to  render  them  any 
assistance.  On  his  return  here,  he  burnt  the  wig- 
wams and  palisadoes,  and  immedialelv  fled  for  refuse 
to  the  Mohawks,  by  whom  he  was  beheaded. 

Mystic,  Ih  miles. 

Stoningiorif  10  miles. 

On  descending  the  hill  which  leads  into  this  villao:e. 
Porter's  Rock,  30  or  40  feet  high,  is  seen  a  little  oil 
the  road  on  the  riffht-hand.  Under  the  shelter  of  it, 
it  is  said,  Capt.  Mason  encamped  with  his  little  army, 
on  the  night  of  May  26,  1637,  old  style,  a  few  hours 
before  his  successful  attack  on  the  second  Pequod 
Port,  which  was  on  the  top  of  a  hill  about  two  mile^ 
south  of  this  place. 

During  the  last  war,  a  small  fort  in  this  town  was 
attacked  bv  a  ship  and  two  brig's  of  Com.  li^rdy'c. 


iquadr 

gallant 
Hopi 
West 
Cent) 
[Her 

mile  a; 

settlemi 

pie.] 
Provi 


Sfcambc 


TUB   RIVER    THAMES. 


301 


i  River, 
le  coast 

nmitted) 
le  infant 
lersfield, 
pring:  oi 
;r  fort  on 
persons : 
and  hav- 
wamp  at 

slaver}% 
terror, 
lelightful 
ions,  and 
hills.    A 
^.jnd  are 
nd«,bays, 
e  tune  of 
;d  by  the 
'  rehef  ol 
thern  any 

the  wig- 
for  refus^e 


is  villag:e, 
little  oft" 
Iter  of  it, 
tie  army, 
ew  hours 
Pequod 
wo  mile. 

town  was 
B?rdy\ 


squadron,  and  defended  by  the  inhabitants  with  great 
gallantry. 

Hopkinton,  11  mWes, 

West  Green'wichf  15  miles. 

CentreviUe,  2  miles. 

[Here  are  two  cotton  manufactories,  about  half  a 
mile  apart,  and  two  weaving^  shopjs,  with  their  little 
settlements,  principally  inhabited  by  the  work  peo- 
ple.] 

Providence,  11  miles.     {See  page  309.) 

THE  RIVER  THAMES. 

Steamboat  Route  from  New- London  to  x ' o   »vicii. 

A  little  above  New-London,  there  is  a  singular  rock, 
on  the  east  side,  where  the  explorers  of  the  river  are 
said  to  have  landed,  and  to  have  been  attacked  by  the 
Pequods.  The  Moheagan  country  lies  jove,  on  the 
west  side,  with  Horton's  Hill,  on  the  top  of  which 
Uncas  had  a  fort,  something  of  which  still  remains. 
It  is  a  very  commanding  position,  and  overlooks  the 
surrounding  country.  During  the  late  war,  the  govern- 
ment ships  Macedonian,  United  States,  and  Hornet, 
which  were  in  the  river,  lay  moored  here  for  a  length 
of  time,  and  their  guns  were  drawn  up  by  oxen  to  the 
top  of  the  hill,  on  tne  east  shore,  above  the  little  cove. 
A  small  batteiy  was  also  constructed  on  the  little  spur 
projecting  from  the  hill  in  front.  3  or  4000  militia 
were  stationed  on  the  opposite  shore  for  their  further 
security. 

Massapeague  Point,  just  above.  Here  the  river  is 
quite  narrow,  opening  northward  into  a  small  lake. 

There  is  a  small  island  on  the  eastern  shore,  on 

which  is  a  stone  cottage,  built  by  the  soldiers  for  a 

poor  family  which  resided  here  during  the  war.    It 

lies  at  the  entrance  of  a  pretty  cove,  which  makes  up 

a  mile.    Commodore  Decatur  brought  the  ships  up 

C  c2 


'J02 


ROUTK    lilO.>£    AEW-iOKK    TO    JiOHToA. 


here,  for  still  greater  security  against  the  British  ciui? 
ing  off  New-London  harbour.     The  place  where  they 
lay  is  Kiah's  Cove,  a  mile  above  the  island.     Abovci 
this  place,  the  river  has  been  impeded  by  sand,  washed 
down  by  the  Shetucket  River,  and  attempts  are  mak 
ing:  to  remedy  it  by  building  piers. 

Trading  Cove,  1  mile  above  Kiah's  Cove,  is  a  hand- 
some little  bay,  making  up  into  the  Indian  country,  and 
derived  its  name  from  the  barter  formerly  carried  on 
here  between  the  white  men  and  the  Moheagans.  Un- 
cas,  the  Sachem  of  Moheagan,  was  believed  to  be  of 
Pequod  descent,  but  in  a  state  of  successful  revolt  at 
the  time  the  English  became  acquainted  with  him. 
His  chief  residence  was  near  this  cove,  now  the  centre 
of  the  Indian  Reservation ;  but  the  burying  ground  ot 
the  royal  family  was  near  Norwich  Landing  (which 
is  in  sight  from  this  place).  He  had  conquered  the 
country  as  far  north  as  about  the  present  Massachusetts 
line,  but  became  an  early  friend  of  the  whites,  and 
lendered  them  important  services,  particiriarly  in  war, 
as  well  as  his  successors,  the  later  Moheagan  Chiefs. 

Before  this  part  of  the  state  was  settled,  Uncas  was 
once  so  closely  besieged  by  his  enemies  the  Pequods, 
that  he  suffered  extremely  from  a  scarcity  of  provisions, 
and  was  relieved  only  by  the  care  of  a  roan  named 
l^effingwell,  who  was  despatched  from  Connecticut 
with  a  boat  loaded  with  provisions.  In  gratitude,  Un- 
cas gave  him  a  large  part  of  the  present  town  of  Nor- 
wich for  this  important  service.  There  is  a  rock  still 
pointed  out  on  the  shore,  and  called  Uncas'  Chair, 
where  the  Sachem  is  said  to  have  set  and  watched  the 
arrival  of  his  friends. 

On  the  south  side.  Trading  Cove  is  bounded  by  Nab 
Cooper's  Hill,  an  appellation  somewhat  quaint  for  a 
neighbourhood  not  deficient  in  romantic  association. 
Beyond  is  Fort  Hill,  which  derived  its  name  from  a 
little  place  of  strength  erected  in  old  times  by  the  In- 
dians, as  a  protection  against  other  nations  small  like 
thems^ves.    The  poor  remains  of  this  tribe  reside  on 


the  land« 

Jive  in  i 

common 

cboly  tes 

active  hi 

impulse  t 

citement 

or  surpasi 

of  swiftije 

rage  in  n 

the  attain 

traversed 

or  the  trac 

verities  of 

ture,  for  t\ 

despise  th 

capacity  f( 


S/age  Co 
there  are  o 
It  contaii 
is  the  princ 
tuation,  as^ 
is  much  fa 
the  neighb( 
north,  and 
On  the  \ 
end  of  whi 
pours  over 
supplies  se\ 
is  highly  pi 
overhangs  t 
sett  Indians 
sued  by  the 
The  Bury 
vated  bank 
^oddard. 


^uK\vlclI. 


303 


they 

b0V(i 

shed 
mak- 

liand- 
^,and 
ed  on 
Un- 
be  of 
vo\{  at 
I  him. 


the  lands  secured  to  them  by  the  state  government,  and 
live  in  all  the  ig^norance,  idletiess,  and  thriftlessness 
common  to  Indians  in  this  part  of  the  country :  melan- 
choly testimonies  of  the  degradation  to  whicn  the  most 
active  human  minds  may  sink  when  every  customary 
impulse  to  exertion  has  been  stifled,  and  no  new  in- 
citement extended.  An  Indian  could  formerly  equal 
or  surpass  his  companions  by  an  extraordinary  display 
of  swiflijebs  and  skill  in  the  chase,  or  conduct  and  cou- 
rage in  war ;  and  what  exertions  were  fiot  made  for 
the  attainment  of  such  distinction  ?  Red  men  have 
traversed  these  beautiful  shores  in  the  pursuit  of  game, 
or  the  tracks  of  their  enemies,  and  suffered  all  the  se- 
verities of  climate  and  privation,  of  wounds  and  of  tor- 
ture, for  those  white  inen  whose  sons  now  neglect  and 
despise  their  descendants,  and  coldly  question  their 
capacity  for  improvement. 

NORWICH. 

&age  Coaches  go  on  to  Providence  and  Boston,  and 
there  are  others  in  different  directions. 

It  contains  three  villages,  of  which  Chelsea  Landing 
is  the  principal,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  singular  si- 
tuation, as  well  as  foritsappearanceof  business,  which 
is  much  favoured  »»y  the  numerous  manufactories  in 
the  neighbouring  country.  The  Plain  is  about  a  mile 
north,  and  a  very  pleasant  place. 

On  the  way  thither  is  seen  the  Cove,  at  the  upper 
end  of  which  are  the  Falls  of  Yantic,  a  stream  which 
pours  over  a  ledge  of  granite  about  40  feet  high,  and 
supplies  several  manufactories  with  water.  The  place 
is  highly  picturesque.  A  rock,  70  or  80  feet  in  height, 
overhangs  the  stream,  whence  a  number  of  Narragan- 
sett  Indians  once  precipitated  themselves  when  pur- 
sued by  the  Moheagans. 

The  Burying  Ground  of  the  Uncases  is  on  the  ele- 
vated bank  north  of  the  Cfove,  on  the  grounds  of  Judge 
Goddard.    There  are  stones  marking  the  graves  of 


m\ 

mm 

■  T'  ■' j  I 

BlHL*' 

il 

m 

304 


HOUTE  FROM  NEW- YORK  TO  KOSTON. 


numerous  members  of  the  royal  family  of  the  Mohea- 
gans,  and  a  few  of  them  bear  Cn^hsh  inscriptions. 
The  family  is  now  extinct,  with  the  exception  of  one 
or  two  degenerate  beings,  who  have  nothing  but  their 
name  to  boast  of.  Uncas,  the  old  friend  of  the  white 
men,  is  buried  here.  He  and  his  nation  were  the  only 
steady  allies  they  ever  found  among  the  Indians,  steady 
and  powerful  enough  to  render  them  very  essential 
service.  He  was  a  man  of  extraordinary  ta'ent,  and 
withal  extremely  politic  ;  but  he  refused  to  join  the  ge- 
neral insurrection  under  King  Philip  in  1675,  and  died 
a  friend  of  the  white  men. 

This  plain  was  the  principal  summer  residence  of 
the  Moheagans. 

The  Flannel  Factory  is  146  feet  by  40, 5  stories  high, 
with  a  bleaching  house,  and  dyins^  house,  and  makes 
5000  yards  a  week.  There  are  also  the  Carpet,  Put' 
tery.  Paper,  and  other  factories. 

The  Cotton  Manufactory  is  a  very  lar^e  establish- 
ment,  under  the  bank  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yantic. 
The  position  is  well  selected,  and  the  sum  expended 
in  buildings  and  machinery  very  great.  It  is  owned 
by  a  company  in  Boston,  from  which  city  a  vast  amount 
of  capital  has  been  expended  in  all  parts  of  New- 
England  for  similar  objects,  as  the  traveller  will  have 
opportunity  to  perceive  as  he  proceeds. 

The  manufacturing  village,  although  recently  built, 
contained,  in  1827,  800  inhabitants.  About  a  million 
and  a  half  of  dollars  have  been  invested  here.  1600 
bales  of  cotton  were  manufactured  annually,  producing: 
more  than  a  million  yards  of  cloth ;  5  or  600  tons  ot 
iron  made  into  nails,  nail-rods,  &c.  and  150  or  200  tons 
of  castings  made  from  pig  iron.  10,000  reams  of  paper 
have  been  made  in  a  year,  besides  machinery,  linseed 
oil,  &c.    Here  are  two  school-houses  and  two  churches. 

Canal,  Surveys  were  made  in  1826  for  a  Canal  to 
run  from  Norwich  parallel  to  Connecticut  River,  up  the 
Quinebaugh  River  to  Massachusetts.  The  supply  of 
water  is  considered  abundant  at  all  seasons,  and  the 


X 


\ 


.lEWKTT  S   CITk. 


30£i 


Mohea- 
•iplion?. 
1  of  one 
ml  their 
le  white 
the  only 
3,  steady 
essential 
ent,  and 
n  the  ^e- 
and  died 

idence  ol 

ries  high, 
id  makes 
rpet^  Pot- 


tract  of  country  through  which  it  is  to  pass  extremely 
favourable  to  the  execution  ol  such  a  design,  as  well  as 
by  its  fertility  and  population,  encouraging  to  its  suc- 
cess. It  is  to  pass  through  the  following  towns:  Spring- 
field, Palmer,  Western,  Brookfield,  Sturbridge,  South- 
bridge,  and  Dudley,  to  the  Quinebaugh.  In  1828  an 
association  was  formed  to  petition  the  Legislature  for 
assistance  in  this  project. 

Road  from  Norwich  to  Puovidknce. 

The  road  follows  the  course  of  the  Quinebaugh  Ri- 
ver for  some  distance,  through  a  hilly  tract  of  country, 
and  near  a  6ne  cataract  in  that  stream.  At  the  distance 
of  U  miles  from  Norwich,  it  passes 

Sachemh  Field.  This  is  an  elevated  plain,  on  which 
:i  battle  was  fought  in  the  year  1643,  between  about 
1)00  Narragansetts,  (who  inhabited  Rhode  Island,)  and 
500  or  600  Moheagaas.  The  Sachem  of  the  former, 
Miantonimo,  intending  to  chastise  Uncas  for  his  adhe- 
rence to  the  English,  secretly  advanced  into  his  country 
with  an  army  ;  but  Uncas  was  aware  of  his  approach, 
and  met  him  on  this  plain  where  both  parties  halted. 

Uncas  resorted  to  a  stratagem.  He  stepped  forward 
alone,  and  challenged  Miantonimo  to  deciae  the  quar- 
rel single-handed.  This,  as  he  expected,  was  refused  ; 
and  while  his  enemies  were  nut  prepared,  he  gave  a 
signal  by  falling  down,  when  his  men  instantly  set  up 
a  yell,  discharged  their  arrows,  and  rushed  lorward. 
The  Narragansetts  fled,  and  many  of  them  were  killed. 
Uncas  captured  Miar»}onimo  himself,  but  the  haughty 
Indian  would  not  ask  for  quarter  nor  speak  a  word. 
He  waF  taken  to  Hartford,  and  after  a  trial,  was  deli- 
vered to  Uncas  for  execution.  He  was  brought  back 
10  this  place,  and  while  marching  across  the  field  was 
tomahawked  on  a  spot  a  little  east  of  the  road,  where 
a  heap  of  stones  for  many  years  marked  the  place  of 
Ills  burial. 

Jfirvetffi  City  is  a  «mall  manufacturing  place,  7  miles 


f- »■'•»•: 


mm 

^^HflHj^^^ 

306 


ROUTE    FROM    :XEW-rORK   TO   BOSTO^^ 


from  Norwich.  There  are  three  cotton  manufactorie;; 
here,  one  with  2000  spindles. 

Plainfield 

is  a  pleasant  village ;  the  inn  is  lar^e  and  good,  and 
overlooks  a  feriile  plain,  through  which  is  the  route  of 
the  proposed  canal  to  Brook  field,  Mass. 

On  crossing  the  line  to  Rhode  Island,  the  country  be- 
comes uninteresting.  The  farmers  are  poor  and  negli- 
gent ;  there  are  no  villages  deserving  oi  the  name,  and 
nothing  worthy  of  particular  notice,  except  one  or  two 
small  manufactories. 

Providence.    See  page  309. 

NEWPORT. 

This  place  possesses  one  of  the  best  harbours  in  the 
United  States-  The  entrance  is  guarded  by  the  Dum- 
plings Fort  and  Fort  Adams;  and  the  scenery  about  it 
is  agreeable. 

Fort  Adams  on  Brenton's  Point  is  to  become  one  ot 
the  most  important  fortresses  in  the  great  plan  of  coast 
defences,  which  have  been  for  some  years  in  the  pro- 
gress of  construction.  This  fortress  was  to  cost,  on  ar 
estimate,  $170,000,  and  is  to  embrace,  when  completed, 
an  extent  of  130  acres.  A  range  of  guns  is  to  line  the 
shore  towards  the  west  as  far  down  as  the  first  rising 
ground.  The  outer  wall  will  be  40  feet  in  height,  and 
extend  nearly  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  enclosing  about 
19  acres.  The  outline  of  the  works  is  now  easily  seen. 
They  will  be  able  to  mount  150  cannon,  in  connexion 
with  the  redoubt,  which  is  to  be  erected  on  a  neigh- 
bouring hill.  Thus  the  fort  would  be  prepared  for  an 
attack  on  all  sides,  should  it  be  made.  The  founda- 
tions and  trenches  have  been  cut  into  rock  or  hard  clay. 
There  is  also  a  range  of  subterranean  galleries  cut  in 
rock. 

Other  work?,  in  connexion  with  Fort  Adam?,  are  pr<^ 


jjoset 

c^C.  w 

pal  n 
for  w 
entire 
count] 
ibf t  is 
(oany 

For. 

JVezi 


ufactorie^ 


.\EWJt»oiir. 


30- 


good,  and 
ae  route  of 

:ounlry  be- 
and  negli- 

;  name,  and 
one  or  two 


•bouts  in  the 
)y  the  Dum- 
lery  about  it 

come  one  oi 
Dlan  of  coast 
J  in  the  pro- 

0  cost,  on  ar 

1  completed, 
is  to  line  the 
le  first  rising 
n  height,  and 

losing  about 
easily  seen. 

in  connexion 
on  a  neigh- 

^pared  for  an 
iThe  founda- 

or  hard  clay. 

jleries  cut  in 

lam?,  are  pr«^ 


posed  on  the  opposite  shore,  the  Dumpling  Islands, 
kc.  which  would  render  the  port  secure  as  the  princi- 
pal rendezvous  for  our  navy  north  of  the  Chesapeake, 
lor  which  it  is  designed  by  the  government.  If  not 
entirely  secure  from  a  land  attack,  the  neighbouring 
country  would  soon  afford  it  abundant  relief!  This 
Ibrt  is  thought  not  inferior,  either  in  plan  or  importance, 
to  any,  unless  Fort  Calhoun. 

Fort  Wolcott  is  on  Goat  Island,  opposite  the  town. 

Newport  extends  about  a  mile  along  the  shore,  but 
presents  the  aspect  of  decay,  as  the  commerce  has 
l3een  removed  to  Providence.  The  situation  has  many 
advantages;  and  this  with  the  cheapness  of  rent  has 
begun  to  render  it  the  temporary  abode  of  many 
strangers  during  the  warm  season.  The  Bellevue  Ho- 
tel enjoys  a  fine  situation. 

Tke  Windmill,  an  old  stone  tower  on  the  top  of  the 
hill,  is  a  conspicuous  object,  although  long  disused. 
There  are  four  churches  visible  ;  and  the  Library,  a 
small  but  neat  and  correct  specimen  of  architecture  in 
the  upper  part  of  the  town,  is  worthy  of  attention. 
The  houses  of  the  town  are  thickly  clustered  about 
the  water,  but  make  rather  a  gloomy  appearance  on 
account  of  the  want  of  paint  and  repair ;  the  place 
having  experienced  a  gradual  declension  produced  by 
the  success  of  Providence,  30  miles  further  up. 

The  Poor  House  is  on  Coaster's  Harbour  Island, 
about  a  mile  above  the  town,  seen  in  passing  in  the 
steamboat.  The  island  belongs  to  the  town,  and  con- 
tains 80  acres.  The  building  is  three  stories  high,  of 
btone,  and  contains  50  or  60  poor.  Those  who  are  able, 
work  on  the  land,  and  others  at  different  manufactures ; 
but  most  of  them  are  women,  and  some  superannuated. 
The  keeper  receives  fifty  cents  a  week  for  the  board 
of  each,  which  is  paid  by  the  town,  to  whicn  the  pro- 
ducts of  the  labour  are  credited.  Since  this  esta- 
blishment has  been  formed,  the  expenses  of  the  poor  to 
he  town  have  been  reduced  cne-half. 

The  In-arh  l»ehind  the  tow!^  like  the  whole  circni' 


.4: 


-?  >  ■ 


JO  8 


KOLTE    1R031    .NEW-VUUK   TO   liOSTUxV, 


IrH't 


5'* 


.1 


ff'l 


i 


'ifljl  (I 


of  the  city  on  the  land  side,  was  defended  by  a  line  ot 
troops,  batteries,  &.c.  during  the  possession  ot'  it  by  the 
English  in  the  revolutionary  war;  and  the  opposite 
hiffh  grounds  were  occupied  by  the  American  army, 
whose  head-qua rt'^rs  were  on  faumony  hill,  a  mile 
and  a  half,  or  thereabouts,  from  the  town ;  an  elevation 
which  affords  an  extensive  view  on  every  side.  Gen. 
Prescott  was  taken  here  during  the  war,  by  a  bold  party 
of  men  under  Col.  Barton,  who  landed  secretly  Irom  a 
boat  in  the  night,  went  to  the  British  head-quarter?, 
and  conveyed  their  captive  away,  before  the  land  oi 
naval  forces,  then  in  the  harbour,  could  prevent  them. 
The  place  was  blockaded  by  the  British  fleet. 

During  the  ^possession  of  the  place  by  the  enemy,  the 
trees,  as  well  as  about  900  houses,  were  cut  down  for 
fuel ;  and  although  the  island  is  admirably  calculated 
for  the  growth  of  fruit  trees,  and  was,  before  that  pe- 
riod, quite  covered  with  the  finest  orchards,  it  is  now 
so  divested  of  trees  of  every  description,  as  to  appear 
remarkably  naked  and  monotonous  for  an  American 
scene.  The  fertility  of  the  ground,  and  the  excellence 
of  the  crops,  however,  as  well  as  the  neatness  and 
precision  with  which  the  fields  are  cultivated,  and  re 
gularly  divided  by  fine  stone  walls,  present  a  picture 
of  agricultural  beauty  rarely  paralleled  in  the  United 
States.  The  island,  14  miles  long,  and  not  3  wide, 
contained  in  1827  more  than  30,000  sheep. 

Fort  Green  is  a  little  battery  erected  on  the  water's 
edge,  about  a  mile  above  the  town. 

Mount  Hope,  famous  as  the  ancient  royal  residence 
of  the  Wampanoag  Indians,  and  particularly  as  the 
abode  of  King  Philip,  and  the  scene  of  his  death,  is 
seen  from  a  few  miles  beyond  Newport,  towards  the 
north-west.  It  rises  in  Warren,  on  the  shore  of  an  arm 
of  the  bay,  and  will  be  particularly  described  here- 
after. The  view  of  it  is  soon  afterward  cut  off  by  the 
intervention  of  Prudence.  Island,  which  is  about  five 
miles  in  length,  and  presents  the  same  fertile  soil  and 
gently  swelling  surface  as  that  </  Hhode  Island.    Th*^ 


inhal 

HoDl 

a  cli 
Hope 
vider 
Rh 
thraci 


This 
populati 
about  li 
advantaj 
the  rive 
some  ch 
street,) 


PROVIDENi;!:. 


oO^ 


T  a  line  oi 

it  by  the 

opposite 
^an  army, 
\1,  a  mile 
I  elevation 
de.    Gen. 
bold  party 
illy  irom  a 
d-quarters, 
he   land  or 
vent  them. 
;et. 

enemy,  the 
it  down  for 
'  calculated 
DTe  that  pe- 
s,  it  is  now 
IS  to  appear 
n  American 
e  excellence 
leatness  and 
ited,  and  re 
nt  a  picture 
the  United 

not  3  wide, 

the  water's 

^al  residence 
ilarly  as  the 
his  death,  is 
towards  the 
)re  of  an  arm 
cribed  here- 
ut  off  by  the 
is  about  five 
rtile  soil  and 
sland,    "^^^ 


inhabitants  are  few,  as  are  those  of  Patience  and 
Hope ;  islands  of  a  much  smaller  size.  Despair  ia 
a  cluster  of  rocks  on  the  left,  near  (he  island  ot 
Hope,  the  north  end  of  which  is  20  miles  from  Pro- 
vidence. 

Rhode  Island  Coal  Mine,  An  extensive  mine  of  an 
thracite,  or  incombustible  coal,  was  opened  a  few  years 
since  near  the  north  end  of  the  island,  in  Portsmouth, 
about  2  miles  from  Bristol  Ferry.  It  was  not  exten- 
sively used,  however,  and  the  work  was  speedily 
abandoned.  The  property  has  passed  into  other  handa 
within  two  or  three  years  ;  and  since  the  anthracites 
of  Pennsylvania  have  become  so  valuable,  about  40 
hands  have  at  some  periods  been  employed  in  d'\^^v.i% 
it,  and  about  100  tons  of  all  sorts  of  coal  have  been 
got  out  in  a  week.  The  vein  which  is  wrought  is 
about  4200  leet  one  way,  115  another,  and  4  feet  in 
thickness.  It  lies  on  an  inclined  plane  ;  and  three 
other  veins  are  supposed  to  be  of  equal  extent. 

New-York  beinff  the  great  market  ibr  coal,  this  mine 
is  very  CMnvenientTy  situated  ;  lying  within  800  yards 
of  the  river,  where  sloops  come  up  to  a  wharf  and 
load.  The  excavations  are  liable  to  be  flooded  in 
wet  weather,  by  which  the  working  has  been  a  good 
deal  impeded.  It  is  necessary  that  fireplaces  should 
be  constructed  on  the  plan  of  a  furnace  to  burn  this 
coal,  as  it  requires  a  high  degree  of  heat  to  ignite  it. 

PROVIDENCE. 

This  is  the  second  city  in  New-England,  both  in 
population,  wealth,  and  beauty.  It  contained,  in  1825, 
about  16,000  inhabitants,  and  is  beautifully  as  well  as 
advantageously  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation,  on 
the  river  of  the  same  name.  It  contains  several  hand- 
some churches,  a  theatre,  an  arcade,  (on  Westminster- 
street,)  and  many  fine  houses. 


310        llOUTE   FROM    NEW-YOBK    TO   KOSTON. 


wm\ 


Brown   University, 

the  greatest  institution  of  learning  in  the  state,  is  built 
on  the  summit  of  a  high  hill,  the  ascent  to  which  is 
not  very  easy,  although  it  is  laid  out  in  streets,  deco- 
rated with  some  ol  the  finest  houses  in  this  par:  of  the 
country,  dispersed  among  spacious  gardens,  and 
mingling  the  delights  of  the  country  with  l:ie  splen- 
dour oi  a  city.  'I'here  are  two  brick  buildings  be- 
longing to  this  institution,  which  command  tine  pros- 
pects.    In  1828  the  number  of  graduates  was  27. 

The  town  was  settled  by  Koger  Williams,  who  left 
the  old  colonies  in  consequence  of  a  disagreement  in 
religious  doctrines.  He  built  his  house  on  the  shore. 
near  the  present  Episcopal  church.  Many  of  the 
society  ot  Quakers  or  F'riends  afterward  joined  him, 
whose  descendants  form  a  large  share  of  the  popula- 
tion ot  the  state. 

The  Academy  is  a  large  institution,  near  the  College, 
established  by  the  Friends. 

On  Eddy's  Point,  it  was  lately  said,  was  the  only 
cotton  manufactory  in  the  United  States  w^oiked  by 
steam. 

This  state,  having  severely  suffered  from  the  want 
of  public  schools,  bas  recently  taken  laudable  mea- 
sures to  supply  il>»-  deficiency ;  and  the  towns  are 
hereafter  to  be  sui;piied.  An  Infant  School  has  been 
esiablished  in  Providence. 

(For  Plymouth,  see  Index.) 

[TauntoTif  32  miles  from  Boston,  next  above  Dighton. 
A  great  quantity  of  cotton  is  manufactured  here,  and 
there  are  extensive  works  in  iron.  The  power  is  sup- 
plied by  5  dams  on  the  west  branch  of  I'aunton  river. 
About  1500  tons  of  iron  are  manufactured  here  every 
year,  1200  tons  into  nails,  300  into  plates,  hoops,  and 
machi  nery.    From  1500  to  2000  pieces  of  calico  print* 


aref 
-Anni 
mad( 
cotto 
spind 
up  th 
third 
print  i 
Tbi 
San 
sant  n 
Ma, 
he  ab( 
States, 
ins;  of 
Islnnd 
15  for 

po.-^ed  I 
g:ives  a 
days  in 
spindle 
or  98,0( 
weaving 
hand  ; 
and  sou 
contraci 
Notn 
to  be  in 
States. 
.   Wool 
jectiirec 
invested 
number 
ployed 
(here  w( 
^50,000 
markets 
800,000 


^': 


N. 


ilAKUFACTOTJIES. 


;ill 


te,  is  built 
)  which  is 
eets,  deco- 
pai  1  ot  the 
rdens,  and 
I  I'le  splen- 
ildings  be- 
d  tine  pros- 
vas'27. 
js,  who  left 
rreenient  in 
I)  the  shore, 
[any  of  the 
joined  him, 
the  popula- 

the  College, 

was  the  only 
woiked  by 

om  the  want 
Lidable  mea- 
towns  are 
ool  has  been 


ove  Dighton. 
ed  here,  and 
)ower  is  sup- 
aunton  river, 
d  here  every 
«,  hoops,  and 
f  calico  print* 


are  furnished  by  tht  cotton  manufacturers,  &c.  r/cekly. 
Annually  800,00  yards  of  No.  30  cotton  cloth  are 
made  ;  and  50,000  !!)>.  of  yarn,  all  out  of  800  bales  of 
cotton.  About  700  persons  are  employed  with  7000 
spindles  and  200  looms.  The  hig^hest  manufactories 
up  the  river  are  built  of  wood ;  the  next  of  stone  ;  the 
third  of  brick.  There  are  two  br  ck  dams  ,  and  the 
printings  establishment  is  among  the  last. 

There  is  also  a  manufactory  of  Britannia  ware,&c. 

Sampson'' s  Hotel,  at  Marlborough  Ponds,  is  a  ple?- 
sant  resort,  half-way  to  New-Bedford.] 

Manufactories  in  JVezv-f^ngland.  There  are  said  to 
he  about  400  buildings  in  this  section  of  the  United 
States,  devoted  to  the  spinning,  weaving,  and  print- 
ins:  of  cotton  ;  135  for  Massachusetts  ;  liO  tor  Rhode 
Islnnd  ;  80  for  Connecticut ;  50  fur  New-Hampshire  ; 
15  for  Maine  ;  10  for  Vermont.  Thi^y  were  fup- 
po-^ed  to  contain  o\\  an  average  700  spindles :  which 
gives  a  total  of  200,000.  They  worked  perhaps  280 
days  in  Ji  year,  and  used  140  lbs.  of  raw  cotton  to  each 
spindle  :  which  would  give  a  total  (»f  39,200,000  lbs. 
or  98,000  bales.  In  one-third  of  the  manufactories  the 
weaving  is  done  by  power  looms  ;  in  one-third  by 
hand  ;  and  the  others  send  their  yarn  to  the  middle 
and  southern  states,  where  it  is  woven  by  hand  under 
contractors,  or  in  families.     Business  has  declined. 

Not  more  than  275  cotton  manuf  tctories  are  supposed 
to  be  in  operation  in  the  remaining  parts  of  the  United 
States. 

Wool  and  Woollen  in  the  United  States. — It  was  con- 
jectured in  1827  that  about  100  millions  of  dollars  were 
invested  in  sheep  and  sheep  lands  in  this  country  ;  the 
number  of  sheep  at  15  millions,  and  100  millions  em- 
ployed in  manufacturing  wool.  By  the  last  census 
there  were,  in  Dutchess  county,  N.  York,  more  than 
450,000  sheep,  which  would  give  a  surplus  lor  other 
markets  of  500,000  lbs.  of  wool  annually.  From 
800,000  to  a  million  of  sheep  were  estimated  to  have 
Vrn  wintt-red  in  the  state  of  Maine  in  182ft,  '27  :  32 


In 


■*'?  ' 


'^■^ 


312        ROUTE    FROM   NEW- YORK   TO   iJOSTOx\. 

millions  of  pounds  were  supposed  to  be  worked  up 
that  year  in  the  United  States,  giving  full  or  partial 
employment  to  100,000  persons. 

In  borinjg^  the  earth  in  this  town,  in  1828,  from  the 
end  of  the  earth,  the  autrer  passed  thr()Ug;h  the  arti- 
ficial soil — then  through  a  stratum  of  mud — then 
throujfh  b()j2:  me.idow,  containing  good  peat — then 
through  sand  pebbles  and  quartz  gravel.  At  this  point 
water  impregnated  witli  copperas  and  arsenic  hroke 
forth  ;  next  struck  a  vineyard  and  dre*  up  vines, 
grapes,  grape  seeds,  leaves,  acorns,  hazlenuts,  pine 
burs  and  seeds  of  unknown  fruits,  together  with  pure 
water.     This  was  35  feet  below  the  bed  of  the  river ! 

Rail  Route  from  Providence  to  Boston. — A  year  or 
^^wo  since,  a  survey  of  the  country  between  these  two 
c?ties  was  made  under  the  authority  of  the  Legislature 
of  iff-issachusetts,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  the 
practicability  of  a  railroad.  The  middle  route  was 
proposed,  beginning  on  Front-street  or  near  the 
Common  in  Boston,  proceeds  on  the  west  side  of 
Boston  Neck,  through  Roxbury,  west  part  of  Dor- 
chester, east  part  ui  Dedham,  middle  of  Walpole  and 
Foxborough,  a  corner  of  Mansfield  and  Attleborough 
City  to  Pawtucket;  crosses  the  river  near  Central 
Falls,  proceeds  throuirh  the  east  part  of  Providence  to 
India  Point,  thence  fr>ay  be  ^xtended  to  Water-street— 
or  it  may  come  to  India  bridge,  on  the  Massachusetts 
side,  and  there  terminate,  or  cross  the  river  near  that 
bridge  to  Fox  Point.  The  whole  distance  from  Boston 
to  F^)x  Poirjt,  by  Central  Falls,  is  43  miles  and  48 
chains :  cost  of  single  road  334.000  dollars — double 
ji-oad  649,513  dollars.  Gre.^test  rate  of  inclination 
v^ould  be  30  feet  in  a  mile.  The  amount  of  ascent 
'Mid  descent  on  the  route  to  Fox  Point,  by  Central 
FaHs,  is  8794eet. 

The  amount  of  merchandise  annually  transported 
between  the  two  cities  was  estimated  at  1700  tons  by 
twd,  and  3400  by  water,  besides  a  large  amount  foi 


l»A\VrLCKET. 


olo 


rorked  up 
or  partial 

,  from  the 
ti  the  arti- 
nud — then 
peal — then 
t  this  point 
eiiic  hroke 
up  Tines, 
enuts,  pine 
-with  pure 
'  the  river  \ 
-A  year  or 
n  these  two 
Legislature 
rtaining  the 
B  route  was 
)r  near   the 
vest  side  of 
)nrt  of  Dor- 
V\' alpolc  and 
Vttleborough 
lear  Central 
rovidence  to 
ater-street— 
assachusetts 
er  near  that 
from  Boston 
iiiles  and  48 
lars — double 
If   inclination 
nt  of  ascent 
,  by  Central 

^  transported 

1 1700  tons  by 

amount  foi 


shorter  distances.  In  1828,  $82,000  were  received  by 
the  agents  of  one  of  the  lines  of  stage  coaches  between 
these  two  cities. 

Blackstone  Canal. 

This  canal,  which  was  completed  in  1828,  and 
extends  to  Worcester,  Mass.  runs  alor)g  the  course  of 
the  Blackstone  River  for  several  miles.  That  stream 
is  seen  on  leaving  Providenc-',  and  lies  west  of  the 
road  to  Boston.  The  road  now  in  use  is  new,  and 
shorter  than  the  old,  but  avoids  several  villages  which 
that  passes  through,  and  presents  very  few  objects 
worthy  of  notice.  The  Blackstone  Canal  is  45  miles 
lon^,  18  feet  wide  at  he  bottom,  and  34  feet  at  the 
surface.  There  are  48  locks,  all  built  of  stone,  which 
overcome  a  rise  and  fall  of  450  feet.  The  size  of  the 
locks  is  82  feet  in  length,  and  10  in  breadth  ;  and  the 
cost  of  the  whole  work  was  about  $550,000.  The 
water  is  chiefly  derived  from  the  Blackstone  river; 
but  there  are  large  ponds  at  different  parts  of  the 
route  which  can  be  drawn  upon  at  any  time.  Soon 
after  the  opening  of  the  navigation,  a  quantity  of  cherry 
plank  and  joist  was  received  here  from  a  vast  distance 
west.  It  grew  in  Michigan  or  Ohio,  at  the  head  of  Lake 
Erie  ;  from  whence  it  was  shipped  down  the  lake  to 
Buffalo,  thence  by  the  £:  k  Canal  to  Albany,  from  that 
place  to  Providence  by  si(  op  navigation, and  from  Pro- 
vidence to  this  place  by  the  Blackstone  canal,  a  distance, 
in  the  whole,  of  at  least  nine  hundred  miles^  four  hun- 
dred miles  of  which  is  an  artificial  navigation. 

Pawtucket 

is  one  of  the  largest  manufacturing  places  in  this  part 
of  the  country,  and  has  increased  surprisingly  within 
a  hvf  years.  The  banks  ot  the  river  are  varied  and 
sonnewhat  romantic ;   while  the  fall,  which  is  under 

Dd2 


i^J' 


;•>■     u 


■m 


314        ROUTK   FROM   NEW-YORK   TO  BOSTOX. 


I^V 


the  bridg:e,  furnishes  a  most  valuable  water  power. 
Cotton  is  principally  manufactured  here,  thou^n  'here 
is  machinery  devoted  to  other  purposes.  The  influx  of 
strangers,  many  of  therr)  poor  and  i^norr^nt  foreigners, 
and  most  of  them  removed  from  the  wholesome 
restraints  of  a  better  society,  has  produced  unt'avourable 
effects  on  habits  and  morals;  which  is  the  \*orst  fea- 
ture in  the  manufacturing  system.  The  first  spinning^ 
by  machinery  in  this  country  was  done  on  a  very 
small  machine  in  1785,  in  Providence. 

The  road  between  Providence  and  Pawtucket,  4 
miles,  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  United  States ;  as  the 
law  requires  that  all  the  income  above  10  per  cent, 
shall  be  devoted  to  repairs  ;  and  the  travelling  is  very 
great.  It  is  hard  and  smooth,  and  is  to  be  furnished 
with  a  convenient  side- walk  the  whole  distance. 

Pawtucket  is  the  first  villag:e  near  the  canal  and  con- 
tains 8  or  10  cotton  factories.  At  Central  Falls,  3 
miles  above,  4  do.  Valley  Falls,  a  short  distance 
above,  4  do.  Next  come  Kelley'sand  the  Albion  fac- 
tories ;  then  Mansfield,  where  are  two  factories,  one 
45  feet  by  150,  and  5  stories  high,  of  pressed  brick.  A 
mine  of  anthracite  coal  has  been  found  near  the  canal. 

At  Woonsocket  Falls  the  descent  of  the  river  is  38 
feet  in  a  short  distance,  and  affords  fine  seats  tor  ma- 
chinery, equal  to  Pawtucket.  There  are  cotton  and 
woollen  factories  here.  The  canal  passes  through  the 
viHaffe  of  Cun)berland,  and  rises  by  three  locks,  of  11 
feet  Tift,  constructed  of  granite.  1  here  are  two  other 
factories  near  this  place ;  and  four  at  Bartlett's  falls 
above,  with  a  Scythe  factory. 

At  Slatersville  is  a  factory  46  feet  by  153,  and  5 
stories  high,  of  hammered  granite.  All  these  esta- 
blishments, from  Central  Falls  to  Slatersville,  are  in  the 
township  of  Smithfield,  which  abounds  in  valuable 
limestone. 

Mendon,  Here  is  Farnem's  woollen  factory,  and  a 
cotton  factory,  without  mentioning  several  other  esta- 
1>lishnQents  off  the  river.    The  Blackstme  Factory,  or 


Man 
daily 

tinet, 
state. 


ULACKSTONE   CANAL, 


3in 


r  power. 
i^\\  'here 
J  influx  ot 
)reiprners, 
hole  some 
3Vourable 
Aorst  fea- 
I  spinning 
an  a  very 

/vtucket,  4 
BS ;  as  the 
)  per  cent, 
ins;  is  very 
3  turnished 
ance. 

lal  and  con- 
•a/  Falls, 'i 
rt   distance 
Albion  fac- 
ctories,  one 
d  brick.  A 
ir  the  canal, 
river  is  33 
ats  tor  ma- 
cotton  and 
through  the 
locks,  of  U 
.e  two  other 
irtlett's  falls 

153,  and  5 

these  esta- 

|le,  are  in  the 

in  valuable 

[ctor>%  and  a 

^1  other  esta- 

Factoryi  or 


Mammoth,  can  make  about  5000  yards  of  sheeting 
daily.     A  little  above  are  two  other  factories. 

JJxhridge.  Here  are  factories  of  kerseymere,  sat- 
tinet,  &c.  Rofferson's  factory  is  one  of  the  first  in  the 
state.  It  cost  about  J  140,000.  There  is  a  refuarkable 
aspect  of  neatness  and  beauty  pervading:  the  esta- 
blishment .\x\(\  the  village.  There  are  several  beautiful 
little  ponds  formed  by  art,  the  margins  of  which,  as 
well  as  (»f  the  river,  have  a  very  pretty  aspect. 

Northhrid^e.  Here  are  two  factories.  Hoibrook 
woollen  fjctory  makes  about  300  yards  of  sattinet  a 
day,  and  Dennis'  about  100.  A  quarry  of  granite  is 
opened  about  200  yards  from  the  canal ;  and  that  ma- 
terial abounds  in  this  region. 

Grafton.  Here  is  a  fall  of  51  feet.  400  yards  of 
sattinet  are  made  in  one  establishment  here.  Here 
are  to  be  seen  the  New-England  Manufacturing  Com- 
pany's buildings,  where  thev  make  duck  and  twine 
from  both  tlax  and  hemp.  This  is  on  the  eastern  road 
to  Providence,  and  6  miles  from  Worcester. 

The  Great  Reservoir  is  just  above.  V  is  formed  by 
clamming  the  Quinsigamond  pond  and  four  other  ponds, 
by  a  single  dam.  This  sets  the  water  back  so  far  as 
to  cover  more  than  2000  acres  ;  and  keeps  an  abundant 
supply  always  at  disposal. 

At  iVilkinsonville  is  a  large  cotton  manufactory  ;  and 
at  Milhury,  a  little  way  beyond,  300  yards  of  woollen 
are  made  daily.  Within  a  short  distance  are  also 
manufactories  of  cotton,  scythes,  and  guns. 

Worcester,  Here  are  large  paper  mills,  five  machine 
shops,  &c.  &c.     {See  Index.) 

Mleborough.  The  inn  stands  on  the  spot  once  oc- 
cupied by  a  olock  hou  h,  built  on  the  frontier  of  the 
Indian  country  before  Philip's  **ar.  Opposite  is  an 
old  burying  o:round,  wliicb  contains  the  body  of  the 
first  man  killed  here  by  the  savages.  The  largest 
Button   Manufactory  in  the  U.  States  is  in  this  town. 

Wdpole,  Here  the  stage  coaches  usually  stop  to 
dine  or  breakfast. 


■,J     '■■■: 


-!*r.53 


J 16   KOUTE  FROM  NEW- YORK  TO  BOSTON. 


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Dedhanif  10  miles  from  Boston,  is  a  large  and  beau- 
tiful village,  with  regular  and  well  built  streets,  and 
Sonne  quite  elegant  houses.  Fisher  Ames  lived  in  the 
second  house  on  the  left-hand,  as  you  enter  the  village. 

[Blue  Hills.  This  is  a  pleasant  retreat,  about  7  miles 
from  the  city  of  Boston,  and  nmch  resorted  to  in  the 
summer  season  ;  as  a  large  house  of  entertainment  has 
been  recently  erected  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain, 
whence  the  place  derives  its  name  ;  and  the  summit, 
which  is  considered  800  leet  above  the  lesel  ot  ihe 
ocean,  commands  a  fine  and  extensive  view.  A  small 
house  has  also  been  built  on  the  top,  where  the  view 
is  the  finest,  for  the  temporary'  repose  and  supply  of 
visiters.  On  the  northern  side,  the  view  eml^races, 
in  a  clear  day,  the  Green  Mountains  in  Vermont,  and 
the  White  Mountains  in  New-Hampshire,  with  a  wide 
extent  of  country  between  :  Nahant,  and  in  general,  all 
Boston  Bay,  is  seen  eastwardly,  and  near  at  hand.] 

The  hills  are  seen  on  the  right  from  the  road,  a  few 
miles  south  of  Boston. 

Quincy  Railway.  This  is  the  first  work  of  the  kind 
which  was  constructed  in  the  United  JStates.  It  is  3 
milos  long,  and  leads  from  the  quarries  of  granite  to 
navigable  water,  for  the  transportation  of  stone  to 
Boston.  The  railway  and  the  quarjies  will  be  found 
worthy  of  a  visit.  The  descent  from  the  commence- 
ment to  the  wharf  is  86  feet ;  breadth  5  feet  from  the 
inside  of  one  rail  to  the  insi»1e  of  the  opposite  one  ; 
a  horse  path  between  the  two  rails  4  feet  4  inches  wide. 
The  plank  rails  are  of  pine  10  inches  in  height,  with 
caps  of  red  oak  2  inches  thick,  by  3  inches  width. 
The  sleepers,  or  tranverse  beams  are  of  granite,  7 
feet  long,  on  which  the  rails  rest ;  these  sleepers  are 
at  distances  of  8  feet  apart.  The  wrought  iron  rails 
are  laid  on  the  red  oak  caps,  and  are  2  inches  wide, 
and  3-8ths  of  an  in.  thick  :  21  tons  3  cwt.  14  lbs.  of  iron, 
including  screws,  are  used  to  each  mile,  making  short 
of  82  tons  of  iron  for  the  3  m.  This  railway  was  opened 
for  use  on  the  16th  September,  1826,  and  has  been 


fiince 
genei 


KOXBUIIY. 


31 


mdbeau 
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)ut  7  miles 
to  in  the 
nment  has 
niouiUain, 
e  j«if«Ti^niit, 
IN  el  ot  the 
.     A  small 
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with  a  wide 
sjeneral,  all 
It  hand.] 
;  road,  a  few 

i  of  the  kind 
tes.     It  is  3 
)f  granite  to 
of  stone  to 
nil  be  found 
J  commence- 
'eet  from  the 
pposite  one  . 
inches  wide, 
height,  with 
nches  widib. 
of  granite,  1 
'  sleepers  are 
;ht  iron  rails 
mches  wide, 
4  lbs.  of  iron, 
making  short 
iv  was  opened 
nd  has  been 


«;incc  constantly  used  for  the  transportation  of  granite — 
generally  60  tons  per  day.  One  horse  has  drawn  22 
tons,  including  the  weight  of  the  two  wagons,  from 
the  quarry  down  to  the  wharf;  but  the  ordinary  load 
of  a  horse  is  from  V2  to  15  tons.  One  horse  usually 
draws  2  wagons.  By  way  of  experiment,  one  horse 
drew  13  tons  up  an  elf^vation  at  the  rate  of  06  feet  6 
inches  in  the  mile,  a  «listance  of  200  t'eet.     A  load  of 

24  tons  in  3  wagons  passed  on  the  railway,  which  did 
not  appear  to  snake  the  rails  at  ail.  The  wheels  of 
the  wagons  are  H  feet  in  diameter  ;  the  axle  tree  3  inches 
in  diameter.     Weight  of  wagons,  3500  pounds  each. 

Four  beMutifu)  columns  were  taken  trom  ihe  granite 
quarries,  in  18*28,  of  solid  masses,  for  the  new  church 
in  Quincy.  They  are  25  feet  long,  4  feet  ?  inches  in 
diameter  at  the  base,  3i  at  top,  and  supposed  to  weigh 

25  tons  each. 

Roxbury.  On  the  Neck  which  leads  to  Boston,  we 
pass  the  remains  of  the  intrenchments  thrown  up  by- 
General  Washington,  in  1776,  to  shut  the  British 
troops  up  in  the  town  ;  and  a  little  beyond  them  is  the 
place  where  Gen.  Gage  previously  drew  his  line 
across,  to  command  the  communication  between  it  and 
the  country.  The  country  on  both  sides  retains  marks 
of  the  American  forts,  redoubts,  &c.  and  Dorchester 
Heights  on  the  east  are  crowned  with  the  works  thrown 
up  by  Washington,  which  commanded  Boston  and  the 
anchorage ;  and  forced  the  enemy  to  evacuate  the 
place.  Embarking  here  in  their  fleet,  ihey  went 
around  to  Long  Island,  and  soon  after  entered  New- 
York.    [See  page  322!.] 

[Several  routes  have  been  proposed  for  a  canal,  to 
be  cut  from  Boston  H arbor r  to  Narragansett  Bay. 
Such  a  work  would  save  the  exposea  navigation 
round  Cape  Cod.] 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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CITY   OP  BOSTON. 


BOSTON. 


Hotels,  Tremont  House.*  The  Exchange.  Marl- 
borough Hotel,  &c. 

Boston  contains  an  uncommon  proportion  of  fine 
buildings,  particularly  private  residences :  for  it  not 
only  possesses  much  wealth,  but  also  much  taste  and 
public  spirit.  The  finest  buildings  are  of  whitish 
granite,  brought  from  the  shores  of  the  Merrimack 
Kiver,  being  found  in  abundance  at  different  places, 
from  Chelmsford  to  Concord,  N.  H.  It  is  transpoF  ted  to 
Boston  by  the  Middlesex  canal,  and  is  not  only  beautiful 
and  lasting,  but  obtained  at  a  moderate  price.  It  is 
found  very  durable  wi.en  exposed  only  to  the  ele- 
ments :  but  fire  soon  disintegrate  and  ruins  it.  The 
Quincy  granite  is  also  excellent. 

TTie AthenoBum,    Underthe  patronageof  wealthy  and 

fenerous  friends  of  the  arts  and  sciences,  for  wiiom 
ioston  has  long  been  conspicuous,  this  valuable  col- 
lection of  books,  coins,  and  medals  has  by  rapid  de- 
grees risen  to  a  grade  of  eminence  among  the  libraries 
of  the  country.  In  addition  to  the  numerous  and  vo- 
luminous works  before  in  the  posse^sion  of  the  insti- 
tution, subscriptions  have  been  made  within  a  few 
years  to  procure  complete  copies  of  the  transactions 
of  the  Royal  Societies  and  Academies  of  Sciences  in 
London,  Edinb!i:.^h,  Dublin,  Paris,  Petersburg,  Berlin, 
Turin,  Gottingtn,  Stockholm,  Copenhagen,  Madrid, 
and  Lisbon,  i  he  catalogue  of  1827  contains  23,000 
volumes.  Any  person,  by  paying  $10  a  year,  may 
enjoy  the  liberty  of  reading  books  in  the  rooms  of  this 
institution ;  but  only  proprietors  and  life  subscribers 
have  the  privilege  of  taking  them  away.  The  libraiy 
however  is  free  to  strangers  introduced!  by  proprietors, 
and  may  then  be  visited  by  them  alone  at  any  time. 

•  Tremont  House  is  the  most  splendid  hotel  in  the  United  States.  It 
makes  a  tine  appearance,  contains  180  rooms,  and  is  conducted  on  an 
excellent  plan.  A  part  of  the  establishment  is  appropriated  to  private 
pnrtiesaiid  families,  and  has  a  <listinct  access,  tlirotigh  a  different  street, 
^vith  no  ronimimicntion  with  the  main  body  of  the  building. 


Most  of  lb( 
are  regular 

States,  and 

The  Eihibi 

in  the  rear. 

a  room  on  ti 

on  the  secoi 

Tfte  JVew 

of  the  ihno\ 

feet  by  55,  v 

a  fine  fa^ad 

single  pieces 

15  tons  ;  a  n 

stones  high,  I 

In  State-str 

tnange. 

7^«  Comnu 
western  side  ( 
ments.    The 
pntle  unduJa 
handsome  dw« 
<|^rd  it  is  boui 
affords  an  extt 
atractofcuJti^ 
near  the  south 
^olonnade  Kc 
aiike  furnisiier 
The  State  H( 
proaching  the 
"ence  at  the 
double  range  o 
andaJai^e  do 
'ntncate  staircc 

f'ew  of  Boston 
'0  be  found. 


CITV   OF  BOSTON. 


310 


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fine 
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aces, 
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It  is 
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The 

lyand 
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id  vo- 
insti- 
a  few 
ictions 
ices  in 
erlin, 
.adrid, 
S3,000 
,  may 
of  this 
|c  fibers 
ibrary 
jrielors, 
time. 

Itatea.   U 

2d  on  an 

[o  private 


Most  of  the  valuable  periodical  macrazines  of  Europe 
are  regularly  received;  as  wei!  as  tboseof  the  United 
States,  and  newspapers  from  all  parts  of  the  country. 
The  £ihibition  and  Lecture  rooms  are  in  a  building 
in  the  rear.  The  Academy  of  Arts  and  Sciences  hi^ve 
a  room  on  the  first  floor,  and  there  is  a  picture  galleiy 
on  the  second. 

TUe  New  Market  is  constructed  of  granite,  and  is 
of  the  foHowing  dimensions :  a  centre  building  74i 
feet  by  55,  with  wings,  extending  in  all  536  feet,  with 
a  fine  fa9ade  at  each  end,  with  granite  columns  of 
single  pieces,  21  feet  high,  and  weighing  each  14  or 
15  tons  ;  a  row  of  granite  buildings  on  each  side,  4 
stories  high,  for  stores,  more  than  500  feet. 

In  State-street  are  the  Banks,*  Insurance  Offices,  and 
'Change. 

The  Common  is  a  fine  piece  of  ground,  on  the  south- 
western side  of  the  city,  and  one  of  its  greatest  orna- 
ments. The  surface  is  agreeably  varied  by  a  icvv 
gentle  undulations,  and  it  is  decorated  with  rows  of 
handsome  dwelling  houses  on  two  sides,  while  on  the 
third  it  is  bounded  by  the  bay  of  Charles  River,  and 
affords  an  extensive  view  in  that  direction,  embracing 
a  tract  of  cultivated  hilly  country.  A  range  of  buildings 
near  the  south  end  of  tne  Common,  beai's  the  name  of 
Colonnade  How,  in  consequence  of  their  being  all 
alike  tiirnished  with  white  columns. 

The  State  House  is  the  principal  object  seen  in  aj)- 
proaching  the  city,  and  stands  on  a  considerable  emi- 
nence at  the  north  side  of  the  Common.  It  has  a 
double  range  of  columns  in  front  of  the  main  building, 
and  a  large  dome  on  the  top,  to  which  a  somewhat 
intricate  staircase  leads,  affording  the  most  extensive 
view  of  Boston  and  the  surrounding  coyntry  which  is 
to  be  found. 

*  In  Boston  there  are  17  banks,  exclusive  of  the  U.  S.  Branch. 
These  banks,  or  rather  14  of  them,  have  in  cirruhition  bilid  bearing 
interest  to  the  amount  of  $3,493,142  42.  The  amount  of  aU  debts  due 
the  whole  of  them,  exclusive  of  balances  duu  trem  the  banks,  it> 
518.564,559  35. 


it 

kI'«I 


I!';; 
ir;, 


i 


320 


CITY   OP   B03T0N. 


Chantrey^s  Statue  of  Washington.  In  this  beautitui 
specimen  of  the  genius  and  skill  of  the  greatest  British 
sculptor,  Boston  possesses  a  treasure.  It  was  finished 
and  sent  to  America  in  1827,  and  a  new  apartment 
was  constructed  for  its  reception,  adjoinin^r  the  Doric 
Hall  in  the  State  House.  The  total  expense  of  the 
statue  and  building  amounted  to  about  $16,000.  The 
sculptor  received  of  this  $10,000.  T|ie  entrance 
from  the  Hall  into  the  edifice  is  fhroueh  arched  pas- 
sages, which  afford  the  visiter  a  full  view  in  ap- 
proaching and  from  various  points. 

The  hills  at  Dorchester,  Koxbury,  Brighton,  Cam- 
bridge, Charlestown,*  &c.  together  with  the  numerous 
islands  which  protect  the  harbour,  form  an  amphi- 
theatre, very  regular  and  beautitui,  when  seen  trom 
the  top  of  tne  Slate  House  ;  and  the  villages  which 
are  seen  in  every  direction,  almost  entirely  line  the 
shore.  The  mingling  of  land  and  water  in  this  scene 
is  very  fine  ;  and  it  is  easy,  at  a  glance,  to  compre- 
hend the  plan  of  the  various  measures  adopted  during 
the  Revolutionary  war,  tbr  the  defence  and  the  cap- 
ture of  the  place. 

The  Navy  Yard,  at  Charlestown,  encloses  60  acres, 
and  enjoys  many  advantages  in  its  situation.  It  has  a 
high  stone  wall  on  the  north  ;  and  near  the  water  stand 
a  large  warehouse  of  brick,  several  arsenals,  maga- 
zines of  stores,  the  residence  of  the  superintendent, 
and  three  very  hirge  ship-bouses,  each  large  enough  to 
hold  a  hundred-gun  vessel,  with  the  stages,  &c.  The 
Dry  Dock  is  very  large.  The  foundation  is  made 
with  piles,  driven  three  feet  apart,  supporting  layers 
of  timber,  plank,  and  stone.  The  stone  work  will 
amount  to  about  500,000  cubic  feet. 

Gen.  Gage,  in  1776,  ran  h  breastwork  across  Rox- 
bury  neck,  w  hich  is  very  narrow,  in  order  to  com- 
mand the  only  land  communication  with  the  nei}(h- 

*  At  Tharlestown  is  thr  Statn  TriVon,  wlioh  Ins  liitHy  been  eiW- 
jmprov'd,  on  thf»  lufit.  pi. •ins. 


bouring  cou 
pression  up 
colonies  so 
sent  in  for  tl 
On  tiiH  17 
had  repairec 
quarters  at 
formed  of  d< 
Hampshire  i 
Breed's  Hill 
CharJestown, 
British  troop 
The  loss  was 
of  the  assaila 
tacks.    The 
success  with  1 
oi  the  regular 
vng  the  countr 
tliey  were  figh 
^oes  by  the  i 
strict  propriet 
latter  is  a  disti 
from  the  forme 
The  British 
the  navy  yard 
consisted  of  a  j, 
HiJI,  and  a  do 
extending   fro 
these  works  ar 
war  Jay,  durin 
m  /javy  yard, 
neck,  which  c 
with  the  mainly 
,  The  17th  of 
this  battle,  was 
ceremonies;  ar 
t'"fi  in  an  angle 
;^^i^h  Masonic  c 
'"''onary  office 


ULxNKEli  3   UILL. 


62  i 


buuiing  country,  and  then  continued  those  acts  of  op- 
pression upon  the  people,  which  exasperated  the 
colonies  so  much  against  him.  Contributions  were 
sent  in  for  their  relief  from  all  parts  of  the  colonies. 

On  the  17th  of  June,  1775,  while  the  forces  which 
bad  repaired  to  this  threatened  scene  had  their  head- 
quarters at  Cambridge,  a  body  of  men,  principally 
formed  of  detachments  from  Mlissachusetts  and  New- 
Hampshire  regiments,  having  fortiAed  themselves  on 
Breed's  Hill,  (an  eminence  of  about  70  feet,  behind 
Charlestown,)  manfully  disputed  the  ground  with  the 
British  troops  sent  over  from  Boston  to  occupy  it. 
The  loss  was  great  on  both  sides,  particularly  on  that 
of  the  assailants,  who  were  driven  back  'if\  three  at- 
tacks. The  boldness  ot  these  raw  troops,  and  the 
success  with  which  they  so  long  withstood  the  charges 
of  the  regulars,  were  of  the  utmost  use,  by  encourag- 
ing the  country,  and  by  convincing  the  Lnglish  that 
they  were  fighting  a  powerful  foe.  The  t)attie  usually 
goes  by  the  name  of  Bunker's  Hill ;  but  should,  in 
strict  propriety,  be  called  after  Breed's  Hill,  as  the 
latter  is  a  distinct  eminence,  although,  perhaps,  a  spur 
from  the  former. 

The  British  landed  near  a  poi.  just  beyond  where 
the  navy  yard  is  now  se3n  ;  and  the  American  defences 
consisted  of  a  small  earth  redoubt  on  the  top  of  Breed's 
Hill,  and  a  double  rail  fence,  stuflfed  with  new  hay, 
extending  from  it  to  the  water.  Some  remains  of 
these  works  are  still  to  be  traced.  A  British  sloop  of 
war  lay,  during  the  action,  in  Mystic  River,  beyond 
the  navy  yard,  and  kept  up  a  cross  fire  upon  the  low 
neck,  which  connects  the  peninsula  of  Charlestown 
with  the  mainland. 

The  17th  of  June,  1825,  the  fiftieth  anniversary  of 
this  battle,  was  commemorated  with  very  appropriate 
ceremonies  ;  and  the  cornei  stone  of  a  monument  was 
Ifiid  in  an  angle  of  the  old  redoubt,  on  Breed's  Hill, 
with  Masonic  ceremonies.  A  large  number  of  Revo- 
'utionary  officers   and  soldiers   assembled ;   and  th«» 


322 


CITY   OF    BOSTON. 


monument  is  to  be  erected  at  the  expense  of  private 
contributions. 

Bunker  Hill  Monument,  The  base  (a  mass  of 
14,000  tons  weight,)  is  laid  13  feet  deep,  and  has  six 
courses  of  stone  to  the  surface — the  first  of  which  is 
50  feet  on  each  side.  Above  this  a  pyramidal  obe- 
lisk, 30  feet  square,  is  to  rise  tapering,  213  feet  4 
inches  oh  the  ground,  and  to  be  15  at  the  top.  It  will 
be  composed  of  80  courses  of  stone,  each  2  feet  8 
inches  tnick.  A  winding  stone  staircase  in  the  inside 
will  'ead  to  the  summit,  whence  the  view  will  be  fine 
and  highly  interesting.  The  whole  is  to  be  built  of 
granite  from  Quinc^r.  The  lai^est  block  in  it  is  said 
lobe  of  the  Ibllowing  dimensions:  11  feet  long,  5 
broad,  2  feet  8  inches  nigh,  with  a  weight  of  ten  tons. 

After  the  battle  of  Bunker's  Hill,  the  Continental 
troops  were  drawn  in  a  more  complete  line  around  the 
town  of  Boston  ;  and  numerous  intrenchments  may 
still  be  traced  out  on  most  of  the  hills  in  the  vicinity ; 
but  it  was  not  till  Gen.  Washington  succeeded  in  oc- 
cupying Dorchester  Heights,  which  command  the 
harbour  and  town  from  the  south-east,  that  the  Bri- 
tish embarked  in  their  ships,  and  evacuated  the 
place. 

Dorchester  Heights  were  occupied  on  the  night  of 
March  4,  1776.  Eight  hundred  men  formed  the  van; 
then  followed  carriages,  and  1200  pioneers  under  Gen. 
Thomas,  300  casts  of  fascines  and  gabions,  and  ^uns 
in  the  rear.  Two  forts  were  formed  by  10  at  night, 
one  towards  the  city,  and  the  other  towards  Castle 
Island.  Preparations  were  made  for  an  attack  by  the 
British,  and  for  defence  by  the  Americans ;  but  the 
weather  prevented  the  design  of  the  former,  who  con- 
sisted of  10,000,  and  they  embarked  for  New-York. 
The  town  was  pillaged,  and  1500  loyalists  removed. 
It  was  evacuated  and  possessed,  March  17  :  ammuni- 
tion, &c.  being  left  by  the  British. 

The  Massachusetts  General  Hospital  is  near  the 
Charlestown  Bridge. 


/>V7V/ 

mi^hbc 


MAMUFACTURlNti. 


323 


private 

nass  of 

has  six 

v'hich  is 

lal  obe- 

3  feet  4 

It  will 

2  feet  8 

le  inside 

II  be  fine 

built  of 

it  is  said 

t  long,  5 

ten  tons. 

3ntinental 

round  the 

ents  may 

vicinity ; 

ed  in  oc- 

nand  the 

it  the  Bri- 

lated   the 

B  night  of 
I  the  van ; 
nder  Gen. 
and  ^uns 
)  at  night, 
■ds  Castle 
ck  by  the 
;  but  the 
who  con- 
ew-York. 
removed, 
ammuni- 

near  the 


DHilges,  Some  of  the  most  striking  objects  in  the 
111  i^hbourhood  of  Boston,  are  the  bridges  which  lead 
from  it  to  various  points.  There  are  no  less  than  five 
principal  ones,  besides  several  branches.  The  ex- 
pense at  which  they  have  been  constructed  and  are 
kept  in  repair  is  very  great,  and  they  furnish  great  fa- 
cilities for  strangers  desirous  of  making  excursions  to 
the  surrounding  country. 

Education,  The  Lyceum,  a  literary  institution, 
with  branches  in  many  of  the  towns  in  this  and  other 
states,  is  calculated  to  diffuse  useful  learning  among  all 
classes.  This  state  took  the  lead  in  establishing  a 
system  of  general  education,  and  enjoys  its  benents. 
There  were,  in  1827,  7500  children  mstructed  in  the 
public  schools  in  Boston,  as  follows — There  are  seven 
2:rammar  schools,  in  which  were  about  500  pupils. 
There  were  200  boys  in  the  Latin  school,  and  140  in 
the  High  school.  The  57  primary  schools  contained, 
in  1828,  3436  children  between  4  and  7  year*  of  age, 
taught  by  females,  &c.  &c.  In  some  of  these  Ine 
monitorial  system  has  been  introduced  .  The  public  ex- 
pense incurred  in  instructing  nearly  7500  cnildren  is 
J54,500  annually.  There  have  since  been  established 
several  Infant  schools,  under  the  direction  of  a  so- 
ciety of  ladies. 

A  monument  has  been  laid  or  commenced  over  the 
graves  of  Dr.  Franklin's  parents,  in  the  Granary  bury- 
ing ground.  The  model  is  for  an  obelisk,  25  feet 
high,  formed  of  seven  blocks  of  Quincy  granite,  each 
weighing  about  6  tons. 

An  Asylum  for  the  Blind  is  to  be  established  in 
Boston. 

Villages,  The  vicinity  of  Boston  presents  a  suc- 
cession of  villages,  probably  not  to  be  paralleled  for 
beauty  in  the  United  States.  They  are  generally  the 
residence  of  a  number  of  the  most  opulent  citizens 
during  the  pleasant  seasons,  and  many  of  the  buildings 
are  fine  and  expensive.  The  grounds  are  also  fre- 
quently laid  out  with  great  taste,  and  highly  ciilti- 


1,  if  A 


324 


CITV   OF    IIOSTON. 


vated ;  so  that  no  stranger,  who  has  leisure,  should  fail 
to  take  a  circuit  througjli  them,  at  least  for  a  few  miles.* 
The  public  coaches  may  be  found  convenient.  There  arc 
several  manufacturing  establishments  in  this  vicinity, 
among  which  Waltkam  is  conspicuous.  [In  some 
places  on  the  coast  salt  is  made  from  sea-vvater.f] 

Cambridge,  3  nnles  from  Boston,  is  the  seat  of  the 
oldest,  and  one  of  the  principal  colleges  in  the  United 
States.  The  village  is  very  pleasant,  and  contains  'he 
residences  of  the  numerous  professors.  The  colleee 
buildings  are  numerous,  and  the  older  ones  venerable 
in  their  appearance.  52  decrees  of  A.M.  were  con- 
ferred in  1828.  This  institution  is  the  most  richly  en- 
dowed in  New-England,  and  has  educated  many  of 
her  most  distinguished  men.  Hon.  Josiah  Quincy  is 
the  President. 


NAHANT, 

14  miles.  This  is  a  very  pleasant  and  fashionable  re- 
sort, during  the  warm  months :  being  a  tine  situation, 
open  to  the  sea,  of  easy  access  by  land  or  water,  and 
furnished  with  several  houses  for  the  accommodation 
of  visiters,  particularly  the  large  hotel.    A  steamboat 

*  The  U.  S.  Marine  Hospital  at  Cliplsea,  oppos?ilo  Boston,  is  a  fine 
building,  erected  out  of  the  HospUnI  coller.ted  from  seamen  in  the  inor 
chant  service.  It  is  105  feet  lonjr,  50  wide,  three  stories  Inch,  nnd  C(«i 
$30,000.  Here  temporary  relief  is  afforded  to  American  seamen  ^^llo 
had  paid  Hospital  moueij,  (uriess  aft'ected  by  conta^iious  diseases,)  and 
foreign  seamen  are  admiited  at  the  price  of  75  cents  a  day. 

t  The  Salt  Manufactories  of  Maseachuaetts  are  worth  about  two  mil- 
lions of  doilarw,  and  make  about  600,000  bushels  a  year,  by  solar  eva- 
poration. Each  bushel  weighs  75  pounds.  The  diity  in  the  United 
States  on  imported  salt  is  20  cents  a  bushel ;  and  yields  a  revenue  nt 
$600,000.  Manufactories,  by  natura.  and  artificial  heat,  are  eatablislicd 
in  the  following  states:— New- York,  Rhode-Island,  North  Carolina  and 
Alabama. 

In  Barnstable  county  there  are  estimated  to'be  fifteen  millions  squair 
feel  of  land  devoted  to  the  making  of  salt  by  solar  evaporation.  In 
New-England  there  are  supposed  to  be  18  millionP,  which,  in  1827.  pro 
<]uced  384,254  bushels  of  salt. 


runs  tl 
which 
town  o 
the  pre 
rocks 
Charlej 
ting  oul 
The 
Boston 
south, 
and  mi 
islands 
which  c 
fortified 
pilal,  pi 
few  acn 
pass  ihn 
mills  an 
The  g 
out  and 
sure  of  t 
top  comi 
wmd  frc 
cent,  br€ 

SOUth-W€ 

and  rock 
ing,  in  th 
TheZ 
quite  cor 
tions  of  t 

shore,  ei 
waves  th 
The  Si 
rocks,  no 
feet  Jong, 
tide  risef 


NAliA^T. 


3'iu 


lould  fail 
V  miles.* 
r here  arc 
vicinity, 
In  some 
"ter.tl 
jat  of  the 
\e  United 
ntains  'he 
e  colleee 
venerable 
were  con- 
richly  en- 
l  many  of 
Quincy  i^ 


runs 


w 


hich 


thither  in  the  summer,  and  there  is  a  fine  road 
l^asses  round  the  bay  through  the  shoemaking 


ionable  le- 
r  situation, 
ivater,  and 
nmodation 
teamboat 


!ton,  is  a  fine 
J  in  tlic  incr 

ligh,  and  cost 

seaineii  wlio 

iseases,)  and 

,bnutt\vo  mil- 
by  solar  eva- 
n  tlie  United 
a  levonne  fit 
re  eatablislicti 
Carolina  ana 

iUions  squavr 
noration.  lu 
in  1827.  pro 


town  of  Lynn,  alone  Lynn  beach,  and  then  turns  off  to 
the  promontory  of  Nahant,  which  is  a  point  of  rough 
rocks  of  considerable  elevation.  Y^ou  may  cross 
Charlestown  bridge,  and  visit  Bunker^s  Hill  at  set- 
ting out. 

The  passage  in  the  steamboat  afTords  a  fine  view  of 
Boston  bay,  with  the  city  ;  Dorchesier  heights  on  the 
south,  Bunker  and  Breed^s  Hill  on  the  north-west, 
and  many  other  interesting  objects.*  Amon^  the 
islands  which  form  the  defence  of  the  harbour,  's  that 
which  contains  Castle  Williams,  and  one  or  two  other 
fortified  ones;  Rninsford  L«^^land  with  the  Marine  Hos- 
pital, part  of  it  quite  elevated,  but  containing  only  a 
few  acres.  Salt  is  made  at  Deer  Island,  where  you 
pass  through  a  narrow  a^-^d  crocked  channel,  and  wmd- 
mills  are  sometimes  used  to  pump  the  water. 

The  ground  near  the  hotel  at  Nahant,  has  been  laid 
out  and  ornamented  with  as  much  taste  as  the  expo- 
sure of  the  situation  will  permit.  Tie  njpola  on  the 
lop  commands  a  fine  water  scene  ;  and  during  a  strong 
wind  from  the  sea,  the  waves  are  high  and  magnifi- 
cent, breaking  wildly  against  the  rocks.  Pea  Island, 
south-westerly,  and  Egg  Island,  east,  are  prominent 
and  rocky.  There  is  a  very  ornamental  little  build- 
ing, in  the  Doric  style,  which  contains  billiard  rooms. 

xhe  Baths  aire  at  a  little  distance  from  the  hotel,  and 
quite  commodious,  furnishing  one  of  the  chief  attrac- 
tions of  the  place. 

>  The  Spouting  Horn  is  a  hollow  in  the  rocks,  on  the 
shore,  east  of  (he  village,  where,  at  half-tide,  the 
waves  throw  the  spray  ten  or  fifteen  feet  into  the  air. 

The  Swallow^ s  Cave  is  a  remarkable  aperture  in  ihe 
rocks,  not  far  from  the  landing  place.  It  is  60  or  70 
feet  long,  and  in  one  place  about  '10  feet  high.  The 
tide  rises  in  it,  and  it  is  visited  by  swallows ;  and 

,    *  At  Dv*>rchester  is  a  hovse  of  Industry. 
"       '  E  f  2 


a^t; 


CITV    OF   B08TO>. 


there  are  several  other  caverns  of  a  similar  character. 
produced  in  the  cour*<e  of  ages,  by  the  constant  attri- 
tion of  the  water.  Seats  are  conveniently  disposed  at 
different  places,  in  the  most  commanding  points,  irorn 
which  the  truly  striking  ol  jects  around  are  seen  to 
great  advantag^e.  The  rude  shores  and  the  smooth 
Deach  can  be  best  examined  at  lo  v  tide ;  but  those 
who  are  fond  of  sublime  scenes,  should  omit  no  op- 
portunity to  visit  Ihem  when  the  wind  is  high,  parti- 
cularly m  a  moonlight  night. 

Proposed  Improvements  for  Internal  Communica- 
tion.— Plans  have  been  on  foot  for  several  years,  for 
constructing  canals  and  railways  from  Boston  to  the 
Hudson  River  near  Albany. 

Proposed  Railroad  from  Boston  to  Albany. — This 

Sroject  was  rejected,  in- 1830,  by  a  large  vote  in  the 
[assachusetts  Legislature.  The  following  results  are 
given  by  the  surveyors  of  the  south»^rn  route,  which 
they  considered  the  most  eliscible.  It  passes  through 
Worcester,  Leicester,  Spencer,  Springfield,  western 
part  of  Westfield,  thence  along  the  southern  br^^nches 
of  Westfield  river  to  Washington,  thence  through  Pitts- 
field  and  Richmond  to  the  boundary  of  the  state,  near 
the  north  line  of  West  Stockbridge.  The  distance  by 
the  line  here  described,  is  94  miles  and  64  chains  from 
Boston  to  Connecticut  river,  160  miles  44  chains  to  ihe 
border  of  the  state,  and  by  the  shortest  lines  surveyed, 
193  miles  and  6  chains  to  Albany. 

Of  this  distance  "13  miles  are  level ;  and  in  travel- 
ling towards  Albany  94i  miles  are  descending,  41  i 
miles  have  an  ascent  not  exceeding  20  feet  per  mile, 
25  miles  have  an  ascent  of  different  rates  from  26  to 
52  feet  per  mile,  and  the  remaining  24  miles  an  ascent 
of  52  to  80  feet  per  mile.  In  travelling  from  Albany 
to  Boston,  90^  miles  are  descending,  45^:  ascending 
not  more  than  26  feet  per  mile,  21  [  ascending  from  26 
to  52  feet  per  mile,  and  27|  miles  from  52  to  80  feet. 
Eight  tons  net  weight  are  considered  an  average  load 
for  a  single  horse  on  the  level  parts,  and  parts  ascend* 


r Jioj Kcri: d  '? vil>va\ k. 


32 


araclei, 
nt  atlri- 
)osed  at 
Is,  iVoin 
seen  to 
smooth 
ut  those 
t  no  op- 
h,  parti- 

imunica- 
ears,  for 
on  to  the 


I 


in  travel- 
ling, 4U 
ler  mile, 
m  26  to 
an  ascent 
Albany 
iscending 
from  26 
,  80  feet, 
■age  load 
;s  ascend- 


\\]^  not  ovtjr  '^6  ieet  per  mile,  travelling  19  or  20  miles 
er  day  ;  6  tons  for  the  parts  ascending  from  25  to  52 
eet,  travelling  10  miles  per  day  ascending,  and  return- 
ing the  same  distance  ;  and  4  tons  for  the  parts  as- 
cending 52  to  80  feet,  travelling  at  the  rat^  last  men- 
tioned." 

The  cost  of  the  road,  22  feet  in  width,  is  estimated 
at  Jd  14,040  70  per  mile,  on  an  average.  Adding  ten 
per  cent,  for  unforeseen  expenses,  the  \vhole  cost  of  the 
road  from  Boston  to  the  border  of  the  state,  will  be 
$2,638,628  64  ;  to  Albany,  $3,254,876  46.  It  is  cal- 
culated that  the  cost  of  transportation,  for  heavy  goods, 
paying  the  lowest  rates  of  freight,  would  he  about  one 
cent  per  mile  on  an  average,  exclusive  of  tolls,  which 
will  add  perhaps  half  a  cent  more  per  ton. 

[A  company  was  organized,  in  1827,  to  open  a  Water 
Communication  between  the  Piscataqua  and  the  Con- 
necticut Rivers,  through  the  waters  of  Lake  Winni- 
piseogee,  and  the  upper  branch  of  Merrimack  River.] 

Boston  and  Whiteliall  Railroad. — A  railroad  has 
niso  been  projected  to  the  head  of  Lake  Champlain, 
at  Whitehall,  over  a  route,  and  in  connexion  with  chan- 
nels of  communication  which  promise  great  advan- 
tag^es. 

The  route  which  is  proposed,  is  from  Boston  through 
Lowell,  Nashua,  Amherst,  Weare,  Henniker,  Brad- 
ford, south  end  of  Sunapee  Lake,  down  Sugar  River, 
through  Newport,  Claremont,  and  Cornish,  to  Wind- 
sor, Vt. — thence  through  Reading,  Plymouth,  Shrews- 
bury, to  Rutland ;  thence  through  Castleton,  to  lake 
Champlain,  at  or  near  Whitehall.  Or,  if  upon  a  sur- 
vey it  should  be  thought  expedient,  to  pass  from 
Lowell  up  the  Merrimack  to  Concord,  and  thence  to 
diverge  upon  the  same  route. 

A  glance  at  the  map  of  New-England  will  be  suffi- 
cient to  understand  the  importance  of  this  project,  and 
to  discover  that  various  branches  might  be  run  in  con- 
nexion with  it,  along  the  most  productive  portions  of 
the  neighbouring  districts. 


ill 


:s2^ 


CITY   OF   BOdTON. 


Thcifi  are  numerous  manufacturing  as  well  as  agri- 
cultural  villacjes  along;  the  route,  and  e:ranile,  soap- 
stone,  lime,  marble,  copperas,  &c.  are  found  in  quan- 
tities in  different  places,  besides  a  great  amount  of 
water-power  hitherto  unemployed. 

The  present  roads  from  Boston  to  Whitehall  are 
about  IGO  miles  in  length  ;  and  the  rail  route  would 
i>)t  be  much  greater.  For  travellers,  therefore,  as 
well  as  tor  merchandise,  it  might  be  ai»  advantagec^us 
work,  if  once  well  constructed  and  in  operation. 

A  route  has  also  been  proposed  for  a  Railway  com- 
m'jnication  between  Boston  and  Lake  Ontario,  from 
Concord  to  Lebanon  on  Connecticut  River ;  thence 
through  the  valley  of  the  White  River  to  Monlpelier; 
by  Onion  River  to  Lake  Champlain  ;  and  thence  to 
Ogdensburg.  The  last  section,  which  has  been  sur- 
veyed for  a  state  road,  is  peculiarly  favourable. 

After  a  survey  made  for  a  railroad  to  Providence, 
by  the  authority  of  the  Legislature,  a  report  was  made, 
stating  that  there  are  two  practicable  routes,  neither 
of  which  would  offer  an  elevation  above  thirty  feet  in 
a  mile,  except  one  short  section.  Estimated  expense, 
g350,000.    {See  page  212.) 

Plymouth,  36  miles  S.  S,  E,  from  Boston. 

This  place  is  highly  interesting  from  its  history,  be- 
ing the  site  of  the  first  settlement  made  by  the  New- 
England  Pilgrims  in  1620,  on  the  22d  of  December. 
A  mass  of  granite  rock  is  still  shown  on  which  those 
stepped  who  first  landed.     It  has  been  divided,  and  a 

{)art  of  it  remains  buried  near  the  shore  in  its  natural 
ocation,  while  the  upper  part  is  removed  into  the  centre 
of  the  village. 

A  handsome  building  was  erected  here  in  1820,  in 
which  the  New-England  Society  hold  their  annual 
celebrations  of  that  interesting  era  in  the  history  of  the 
country.  Burying  Hill,  which  rises  near  at  band,  is 
the  spot  where  a  small  fort  was  erected  by  the  settler?. 


iioi:tj:s  iucim   uofiTo^'. 


3Ji» 


s  agri- 
,  soap- 
I  quan- 

)Ul)t  of 

all  are 
would 
ore,  as 
tageous 
[1. 

yy  com- 
ic, from 
,  thence 
ilpelier ; 
lence  to 
een  sur- 

s. 

(vidence, 
as  made, 
3,  neither 
ly  feet  in 
expense, 


}Ston. 

story,  hc- 
the  New- 
[ecember. 
ich  those 
fed,  and  a 
_s  natural 
[the  centre 

1820,  in 

tir  annual 

)ry  of  the 

hand,  is 
ie  settlers 


iiid  where  tlic  grave«  of  several  of  them  nro  slill  to  lje 
ibund.  The  banks  of  Iho  hrook  south  of  (he  hill  were 
the  scene  of  the  first  conference  with  Massasoit,  a 
friendly  and  faithful  Indian  chief,  from  whom  the  name 
of  the  Bay,  and  subsequently  that  of  the  stale  was 
derived.  Manumet  point  is  a  promontory  on  the  s(u]th 
.side  of  the  harbour ;  and  a  small  island  on  the  opposite 
ot  it  was  the  spot  where  the  pilgrims  first  placed  their 
feet  on  shore  in  this  vicinity,  after  having^  previously 
landed  on  Cape  Cod. 

The  young  and  feeble  colony  suffered  extreme  dis- 
tresses nere,  from  the  severity  of  the  climate,  (against 
which  they  were  unprepared,  as  they  had  sailed  for  a 
more  southern  region,)  and  the  want  of  provision^. 
Nothing  but  the  assistance  of  Massasoit  preserved  them 
from  extinction. 

»Slfinrfanc/j.,  a  favourite  resort  for  fishing  and  sea  air,  is 
■i  few  miles  below  Plymouth.  There  is  a  good  inn  kept 
by  Mr.  Swift. 

Routes  fkom  Boston. 

Coaches  go  in  so  many  directions,  that  a  choice  may 
be  made  between  a  great  many,  all  of  them  pleasant ; 
in  setting  out  for  a  tour  to  the  westward,  or  towards 
the  city  of  New-York  : 

In  the  first  place,  the  noble  scenery  of  the  White 
Hills  may  be  taken  in  the  way  to  Lake  Champlain, 
Caii;ida,  the  Springs,  or  Ningara ;  or  in  making  the 
more  circumscribed  route  of  Connecticut  River. 
Next,  those  who  choose  a  more  direct  way,  may  avail 
theiijselves  of  the  road  through  Concord,  Keene,  and 
Windsor ;  or  its  branches  to  Charlestown  or  Walpole. 
The  last  is  now  much  travelled,  as  it  is  one  of  the 
shortest  routes  between  Boston  and  the  Springs,  and 
leads  through  a  number  of  interesting  places.  Besides 
these,  are  the  roads  to  Albany  or  the  Springs,  through 
the  following  different  places  :  Brattleborough,  Bloody 
r>rook,  Greenfield,  Northampton,  (and  New-I^ebanon ;) 


3S0 


KOUTES    FKOM    BOSTON. 


i , 


Springfield  and  Hartford.  Of  these  diiFerent  routes, 
it  h  difficult  to  make  clioice  of  any  one  to  recommend 
in  general.  Many  have  particular  objects  in  view, 
and  sonie  will  have  less  time  at  their  disposal.  To 
strajf^ers,  however,  it  will  be  proper  to  remark  once 
more,  that  the  route  of  Connecticut  River  presents  at 
once  a  scene  of  fertility,  population,  good  habits,  and 
inleih'gence,  on  the  whole,  superior  to  any  other  tract 
of  country,  of  equal  extent,  in  the  United  States ,  with 
correspondent  accommodations  for  travellers.  The 
scenery  is  rich  and  varying,  and  cannot  fail  to  please, 
vt  herever  it  is  seen  ;  but  those  who  can  first  pass 
through  the  Notch  in  the  White  Mountains,  will  find 
its  beauties  grsatly  enhanced  by  the  contrast.  Since 
the  devastation  caused  by  the  flood  in  1826,  the  road 
Ikks  been  so  much  repaired  as  to  be  very  good ;  and 
;^reat  improvements  have  been  made  at  E.  A.  Craw- 
ibrd's,  in  the  ascent  of  Mount  Washington  and  in  ac- 
comnuvlations.  At  Hadley  and  Northampton,  is  the 
most  !>eautiful  part  of  the  whole  river;  and  for  the 
«)(her  routes,  we  can  only  refer  to  the  Index  for  the 
de.«ciiptions  of  the  principal  towns  through  which  they 
pass.  ' 

East  of  Boston,  the  country  is  of  a  different,  and  too 
often  of  an  opposite  character,  presenting  a  few  obiecis 
of  inipj)rtance,  except  the  seaports  through  which  the 
chief  road  passes. 

'I'lif  ,re  is  a  line  of  Slemnboats  to  Maine  and  J\'*m'- 
Brunswick. 

The  Road  to  Portland  and  through  the  most  popu- 
lous part  of  the  slate  of  Maine  will  be  given;  but 
beiiiu  of  less  intejcst  to  most  travellers  from  this  city, 
vvili  be  placed  towards  the  end  of  the  volume,  while 
we  iarn  oui  ,ittentiun  to  the  principal  routes  leading 
west  and  nuiih  from  Boston. 


H< 


To  A] 


KOUTE    FROM   BOSTO.N  TO    NEW-LEBANO.N.    331 

To  Albany  through  Worcester,  Northamp- 
ton, AND  Lebanon  Spring   . 

Watertawn,  like  almost  all  the  villages  in  the  vicinity 
of  Boston,  presents  many  neat  country  seats  and  an 
aspect  of  rural  beauty  and  fertility. 

Framingham.  Here  is  a  large  and  well  kept  hotel, 
where  the  stage  coaches  stop,  and  a  place  of  great  re- 
sort.    (80  m.  from  Boston.) 

Worcester,  20  m.     {See  Index.)    Leicester, 
9  m.     Spencer,  6  m. 

Brookfield.  This  was  one  of  the  towns  earliest 
settled  in  this  part  of  the  country,  dating  as  far  back 
as  Nov.  10,  1665;  and  for  several  years  the  only 
towns  on  the  west  were  Hadley,  Northampton,  &c. 
while  there  was  no  white  settlement  between  it  and 
Canada.  The  stage  coach  passes  over  a  lon^  hill  in 
West  Brookfield,  which  commands  an  extensive  pros- 
pect ;  and  this  was  the  place  where  the  settlement 
began.  A  few  yards  west  of  a  white  house  on  the 
north  side  of  the  road,  was  a  house  built  for  defence, 
and  though  of  little  strength,  was  called  the  Fort.  In 
August,  1675,  this  place  was  suddenly  beset  by  seve- 
ral hundred  savages.  The  inhabitants  had  been  im- 
posed upon  by  the  appearance  of  friendliness  shown 
by  the  Hassenemesit  Indians,  and  on  their  way  to  their 
fort,  a  few  miles  distant,  were  ambushed  and  pursued, 
so  that  thej^  barely  escaped.  The  house  in  which 
they  all  assembled  was  besieged,  and  was  several 
times  in  imminent  danger.  On  one  occasion  a  cart, 
loaded  with  hemp,  kc.  and  set  on  fire,  was  pushed  up 
to  the  house  with  long  poles,  when  a  sudden  shower 
came  up,  in  time  to  extinguish  the  flames.  The  for- 
tunate arrival  of  Capt.  Mosely,  with  a  small  troop  of 
liorsemen,  delivered  the  inhabitants,  and  drove  away 
(he  savages.    All  the  houses  having  been  burned,  and 


•I 


^o2     UOUTE    IKOM   HOSTOA    TO    MiU-LKOAAOrf, 

the  war  soon  beginning  to  rage  wilh  violence,  the  sel- 
tJement  was  eyacuatedf. 

The  old  weil  still  remains  which  belonged  to  the 
fort  or  blockhouse  ;  and  there  is  a  rock  in  a  wall,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  road,  from  behind  which  an 
Indian  shot  one  of  the  men,  who  came  out  to  draw 
water  during  the  siege. 

The  present  village  is  at  the  bottom  of  the  hill,  and 
is  pleasantly  situated,  with  several  ponds  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, which,  with  the  fish  and  iowl  they  furnished, 
were  the  principal  attraction  of  the  savages,  who 
were  very  numerous  in  this  tract  of  country.  These 
ponds  give  rise  to  the  Qjjabaug  river,  which,  after  a 
course  of  some  miles,  takes  the  name  of  Chicopee, 
and  joins  the  Connecticut  at  Springfield.  This  is  the 
stream  which  it  has  been  proposed  to  connect  with 
Boston  Bay  by  a  canal,  and  asso  by  another  with  the 
Thames  at  Norwich,  in  Connecticut. 

Four  miles  east  of  BrookfieM  you  reach  a  height  ot 
land,  which  affords  a  varied  and  extensive  view,  with 
a  succession  of  hilly  country  immediately  around  you. 

Ware  Factory  Village 

is  situated  in  a  little  valley,  with  an  excellent  inn.  The 
rocks  and  woods  give  an  air  of  wildness  to  the  water 
fall,  in  their  natural  state,  and  the  place  is  now  quite 
picturesque,  when  a  rustic  cottage,  the  residence  ot 
the  a^ent,  is  taken  into  view. 

A  few  years  since  there  were  only  five  buildings ;  and 
now  there  is  a  cotton  factory,  containing  2,000  spindle?. 
and  66  looms ;  another  with  4,500  spindles,  and  150 
looms ;  a  third,  of  the  size  of  the  latter ;  a  flannel 
manufactory,  in  which  are  made  15  pieces  per  week ; 
dye,  wool  houses,  machine,  blacksmith's,  cabinet 
makers',  and  various  other  shops ;  grist  and  saw  mills 
a  furnace,  &c.    But  it  is  on  its  decline. 

Belchertown,  9  miles. 

Amherst,  7  miles.  The  shortest  road  to  Northampton] 
does  not  pa?s  the  College.    {See  Index.) 


lladlei 
llOUT 


The  fir 
ill  New-! 
iiended. 

There 
(here  are 


i^remarkab 
Jfi  the  Revo 
<jen.  Gage 
a  powder  h 
•^'id  the  inh 
expre.ss  desj 
militia  were 
^ere  disrai? 
selves  in  rei 
'heir  appeal 
[ep,  within 


LEXIKGTOA- 


J33 


he  set- 
to  the 
rail,  on 
uch  an 
0  draw 

lill,  and 
J  neigh- 
rnished, 
;s,  who 
These 
,  after  a 
liicopee, 
lis  is  the 
ect  with 
with  the 


thamp^ov; 


lladley,  5  miles# 


ROUTE  FROM  BOSTON  TO  THE  WHITE 

MOUNTAINS. 

The  first  day's  journey  is  to  Concord  or  Dover,  both 
ill  New-Hampshire.  The  former  route  is  recom- 
riended. 

There  are  three  roads  to  Concord,  on  all  which 
there  are  stage  coaches.  (All  necessary  information 
concerning:  them,  can  be  readily  obtained  at  the  Hotels.) 

The  first  is  through  Cambridge,  (where  is  Harvard 
University,  see  Index,)  and  Lexington. 

The  second  is  through  Charlestown,  and  joins  the 
other  on  the  Merrimack. 

The  third  is  through  Andover  and  Haverhill,  Mass. 

The  distance  is  from  68  to  70  miles,  and  the  tare  $3  60. 

Besides  these  there  is  a  boat  on  the  Middlesex  Canalf 
which  has  heretofore  left  the  upper  locks  in  Charles- 
town,  (two  miles  from  Boston),  three  times  a  week, 
and  goes  to  Chelmsford  in  about  nine  hours  :  28  miles, 
passage  75  cents.  This  mode  is  not  particularly  re- 
commended. 

Several  places  on  tliese  roads  will  be  particularized. 

Lexington 

i<  remarkable  as  the  place  where  the  first  blood  was  shed 
m  the  Revolutionary  war.  On  the  19ih  of  April,  1776, 
Gen.  Gage  sent  a  body  of  troops  from  Boston,  to  seize 
a  powder  house  at  Concord,  belonging  to  the  colony  ; 
and  the  inhabitants  were  warned  of  his  design,  by^ an 
oxpress  despatched  by  the  Hon.  Joseph  Warren.  The 
militia  were  called  out,  but,  the  alarm  subsiding",  they 
were  dismissed,  with  orders,  however,  to  hold  them- 
selves in  readiness.  The  enemy  unexpectedly  madel 
their  appearance  at  half  past  4,  coming  on  iti  a  qoibk 
tep,  within  a  mile  and  a  quarter  of  the  church.  The 
^'nim  i»:uri-!  werf^  fired,  drums  beat,  and  r>o  or  60  mili* 


334        BOtsTON    TO    THE    WHITJ;    Mui;.\rAliS;s. 


tiamen  assembled  on  the  parade.  The  Britisli  brigad^^ 
halted  about  120  yards  from  the  church  to  load,  and 
then  passing  the  east  end  of  the  building,  discovered 
the  Americans,  who  were  ordered  at  the  moment,  by 
their  commander,  Capt.  Parker,  to  "disperse,  and 
take  care  of  themselves,"  but  "  not  to  fire."  As  some 
of  them  loitered,  the  British  troops  rushed  towards 
them,  huzzaing.  Major  Pitcaim  fired  a  pistol  at  them, 
when  about  30  yards  distant,  after  they  had  been 
called  "rebels,"  and  ordered  them  to  lay  down  their 
arms  and  disperse.  Another  officer,  who  was  within 
a  few  yards  of  them,  then  brandished  his  sword,  and 
ordered  the  troops  to  "  fire,"  which  was  obeyed  at  tlie 
second  order ;  and  the  fire  being  returned,  it  was  kept 
up  on  the  dispersing  men  until  they  had  all  disappeared. 
Eight  were  killed,  and  ten  wounded.  (Gen.  Gage 
falsely  stated  that  the  British  were  first  fired  upon.) 

After  the  regulars  had  fired  a  volley,  from  the  green 
behind  the  church,  and  given  three  cheers,  they  pro- 
ceeded to  Concord.  On  their  return,  being  hard 
pressed  by  sharp  shooters,  they  burned  three  houses,  a 
shop,  and  a  barn,  killed  three  more  men,  and  wounded 
one. 


distant  ] 

V^ermonl 

The  a 

names  oi 

in  the  u] 

volumes. 

a  spacioi 

ana  the 

Academj 

they  are  i 

The  tern 

years.     1 

was  108. 


is  a  small 
bank  of  tl 
distance  h 
the  water, 
roof  to  pn 


Andovek 

is  a  small  village,  situated  on  high  ground,  20  mile:- 
from  Boston,  remarkable  for  the  Philips  Academy  and 
Theological  Seminary,  which  are  three-fourths  of  a 
mile  east  from  it,  on  the  summit  of  the  ascent.  There 
are  three  large  brick  buildings,  belonging  to  the  Semi- 
nary, which  make  a  conspicuous  figure  Trom  different 
parts  of  the  surrounding  country,  and  command  a 
view  of  great  extent,  ^bounded  on  the  west  by  the 
Temple  Hills  in  New-Hampshire,  backed  by  the 
Monadnoc,  about  60  miles  off;  and  on  the  south  by  the 
Blue  Hills.  A  little  elevation  near  by  affords  a  view 
of  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  from  about  Newburyport  to 
Cape  Ann,  \riih  part  of  Salem;  and  north-west  is  a 


12  miles 
greatest  m 
one  of  the 
longer  ag< 
erected  he 
ones  were 
"  Merrimac 
chase  of  b 
to  take  ad\ 
nature  has 
^"gh,  and  a 
canal  comnr 
and  round 
(at  the  exf 
^^'ater  whet 


LOWELL. 


335 


igatir, 
I,  and 


distant  peak,  wliich  is  supposed  to  be  Ascutney,  in 
V^ermont. 

The  academical  buildings  are  distinguished  by  the 
names  of  Philips  Hall,  Bartlett  Hall,  and  the  Chapel. 
in  the  upper  part  of  the  latter  is  a  library  of  5  or  6000 
volumes.  The  Professors'  houses  are  opposite,  with 
a  spacious  green  intervening  between  tne  Seminary 
and  the  street ;  and  there  is  also  a  large  inn.  The 
Academy  and  Seminary  are  not  connected,  although 
they  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  same  board. 
The  term  of  instruction  in  the  latter  embraces  three 
years.  The  number  of  students  in  the  foiiner,  in  1828, 
was  108. 


10  mile^ 
my  and 
hs  of  a 
There 

e  Semi- 
different 

mand  a 

by  the 

by  the 

h  by  the 

a  view 

rport  lo 

est  is  ? 


Haverhill 

is  a  small  town,  but  pleasantly  situated,  on  the  north 
bank  of  the  Merrimack,  the  shores  of  which,  for  some 
distance  below,  present  a  beautiful  and  fertile  slope  to 
the  water.  A  draw-bridge  crosses  the  river,  with  a 
roof  to  protect  it  from  the  weather. 

Lowell, 

12  miles  from  Boston.  This  has  been  one  of  the 
greatest  manufacturing  places  in  the  United  States,  and 
one  of  the  most  astonishing  rapidity  of  growth.  No 
longer  ago  than  1813  the  first  cotton  factonr  was 
erected  here,  which  cost  only  about  ^3,000.  Larger 
ones  were  founded  in  1818 ;  and  two  years  after,  the 
"Merrimack  Manufacturing  Company"  made  a  pur* 
chase  of  buildings  and  ground,  with  the  determination 
to  take  advantage  of  the  extensive  water  power  which 
nature  has  granted  to  the  place.  The  falls  are  30  feet 
liigh,  and  a  little  below  the  spot  where  the  Middlesex 
canal  commences,  leading  to  Charlestown,  near  Boston ; 
and  round  them  the  Company  improved  an  old  canal, 
(at  the  expense  of  §120,000,)  for  the  supply  of  their 
water  wheels.     Thcrf»  is  power  enouofh  for  50  factor 


o3t) 


BOSH*.\    TO   THE   WIUTi:   .HOU^TAKVS. 


rifis  with  3,500  spindles  each.  The  place  low  pa  . 
sents  the  aspect  of  a  large  village,  laid  out  and  builr 
with  remarkable  uniformity.  The  number  of  facto 
ries  is  six,  one  having  been  lately  burned,  each  con- 
taining 3,500  spindles.  They  are  regularly  disposed, 
with  the  avenues  between  the  habitations  abutting 
against  the  yard.  In  1827  they  used  about  450,000 
lbs.  of  cotton,  and  made  about  two  million  yards  of 
cloth  ;  throe-fourths  of  which  was  dyed  or  printed  at  a 
neighbouring  establishment.  There  is  also  a  laige 
machine  shop  near  at  hand.  There  had  been  invested, 
in  1828,  nearly  two  and  a  half  millions  of  dollars.  The 
number  of  persons  employed  in  1828  was  about  1,600, 
In  1829,  great  calamities  befell  this,  as  well  as  many 
other  large  manufacturing  establishments  in  the  country. 
Great  failures  took  place,  work  people  lost  their  em- 
ployment, and  a  general  depression  occurred,  from 
which  the  recovery  must  be  gradual.  The  manufac- 
tories of  New-England,  with  few  excepiions,  present 
far  less  activity  than  at  the  period  when  the  last  edi- 
tion of  the  Northern  Traveller  was  published. 

Chelmsford  is  one  of  the  principal  manufacturing 
places  in  the  United  States. 

Manufactories  in  JVew-Hampshire.  So  recently  as 
1810  there  y  ^ere  but  12  cotton  manufactories  in  this  state, 
with  6956  spindles ;  and  only  about  two  million  yards 
of  woollen,  cotton,  flaxen,  and  tow  cloth  were  made  in 
them  and  in  private  families  during  that  year.  The 
number  of  cotton  and  woollen  manufactories  was,  in 
1?J27,  more  than  60 ;  and  the  cloth  made  was  about  30 
millions  of  yards.  But  great  misfortunes  have  since 
occurred. 

Great  Falls  Village  is  a  village  five  miles  above 
Dover,  belonging  to  the  town  of  Somerworth,  of  60 
or  70  dwellings,  built  within  a  few  months,  and  four 
manufactories.  One  of  these  is  for  cotton,  with  1500 
spindles,  and  makes  7000  yards  No.  20  in  a  week. 
One  for  woollen,  156  feet  long,  with  near  6000  spin- 
dles, aiid  makes   16,000  or  18,000  yards  of  No.  40 


UONCORD. 


J37 


I  built 
facto- 
li  con- 
posed, 
jutting 
t50,000 
ards  of 
edat  a 
L  large 
vested, 
.    The 
1 1,600. 
s  many 
ountry. 
eir  em- 
d,  from 
lanufac- 
present 
asl  edi- 

Lcturing 

jntly  a? 
lis  state, 
n  yards 
ade  in 
.  The 
was,  in 
bout  30 
e  since 

above 
.,  of  60 
id  four 
th  1500 

week. 
)0  spin- 
INo.  40 


weekly.  One  is  for  broadcloth,  220  feet  long ;  and 
another,  390  feet  long,  for  cotton  and  woollen. 

Nashua  ViLijidE, 

in  Dunstable,  33  miles  from  Concord.  The  fall  in  the 
Nashua  river  is  65  feet,  and  the  power  ecjual  to  about 
65,090  spindles.  Here  are  some  astonishing  improve- 
incnts.  In  1825  there  were  two  great  manufactories, 
each  155  feet  by  48,  one  for  cotton  and  the  other  for 
woollen,  with  a  dye  house  150  by  48,  a  wood  house 
and  machine  shop  250  by  30,  &c. 

The  buildings  for  the  work  people  form  suiall  and 
regular  villages. 

Dover. 

This  is  one  of  the  principal  towns  in  the  state,*  and 
contains  several  manufactories,  although  the  supply  of 
water  is  by  no  means  abundant  at  all  seasons.  In 
crossing  the  bridge  there  are  seen  three  large  manu- 
factories, each  about  two  hundred  feet  in  length ;  and 
the  foundation  of  a  fourth  was  laid  in  1825,  although 
the  contracted  space  afforded  on  the  banks  required 
the  blasting  out  of  a  great  quantity  of  rock  for  the 
foundation  and  sluiceways. 

About  five  miles  above  Dover,  at  Salmon  River 
Falls,  is  a  village  containing  four  manufactories,  of 
liifferent  sizes,  from  63  to  390  feet  in  length,  and  of 
live  and  six  stories  in  height. 

CONCORD 

IS  the  capital  of  New-Hampshire,  and  a  very  fine 
and  flourishing  town.    It  is  much  the  largest  the  tra- 

*  The  total  of  the  militia  of  New- Hampshire  is  38,415  men,  viz :  i^i>- 
untry,  light  infantry,  and  grenadiers,  24,491 ;  cavalry,  1.529;  aniUery, 


^«^0-.  riflemen.  7f>fi. 


Ff  2 


.J38 


BOSTON    TO    THE    "\VJflTJ5    MOU\TAI\j. 


vcHer  will  see  before  reaching  the  White  Mountains^ 
and  for  a  L'reat  distance  beyond  them. 

hns» — The  two  principal  stage  bouses,  just  south  ot 
the  state  house,  are  lat^e  and  commodious — that  next 
the  state  house  is  particularly  recommended.  There 
are  several  others  above  and  below,  though  of  much 
inferior .  pretensions 

The  town  is  situated  principally  on  one  street,  which 
is  of.  a  great  length  and  very  convenient  breadth,  with 
many  respectable  houses  ;  and  runs  parallel  witb  the 
Merrimack,  which  iS  at  only  a  shor^  distance  on  the 
east. 

The  State  House  occupies  a  conspicuous  situation 
near  the  midd;e  of  the  town,  a  little  removed  from  the 
street,  and  surrounded  by  a  handsome  stone  wall,  en- 
closing an  area.  It  is  built  of  hewn  granite  from  the 
quarry,  and  is  a  neat  edilice,  100  feet  long,  with  a 
large  hall  on  the  first  floor,  and  on  the  second  the 
Senate  and  Representatives' Chambers,  with  the  com- 
mittee rooms,  sti.te  offices,  &c.  &c.  The  view  from 
th^,  top  is  extensive,  but  embraces  a  tract  of  country 
too  littje  cultivated  to  be  rich,  and  too  unvaried  to  bie 
picturesque.  At,  the  northward  are  seen  two  or  three 
distinct  peaks,  which  may  serve  as  an  earnest  of  the 
magnippent  scenery  to  be  presented  to  the  traveller  in 
that  direction. 

The  State  Prison  is  built  at  a  short  distance  from 
the  State  House,  and  bears  a  still  greater  appearance 
of  solidity  and  strength. 

ThQn$  is  an  Academy  in  Concord,  with  several 
churches.  Several  newspapers  are  printed  here,  and 
gazettes  from  distant  places  may  be  lound  at  the  inns. 
Farmer  &  Moore's  Gazetteer  of  New-Hampshire  is 
the  best  companion  for  a  traveller  in  this  state.  In 
18^  th^  Legislature  of  New-Hampshire  divided  the 
literaijjlind  among  the  towns,  to  be  appropriated  by 
them  according  to  their  discretion. 

From  what  may  have  been  observed  of  the  ffranite 
rocks  along  the  road,  the  stranger  must  have  aaroired 


fheir  sup 
of  their 
applied. 
Boston,  a 
stone.    A 
sold  for 
10,500  fe 
and  the 
hewn)  wi 
being  pre 
the  prisor 
old  bould 
sieps,  mill 
o{  the  gra 
characteri; 
found  to  a 
White  Mo 
on  Connec 
the  countr 
such  a  dn 
different  (3 
coarsest  vj 
a;Taim^  ro 
Winnipisec 
of  felspar 
white,  fine-, 
it  is  not  for 
many  inter 
tific  men  sF 
''ind  trace 
Winnipiseo 
which  som< 
The  Mer 
ble,   by   vj 
Chelmsford 
munication 
fac taring  vi 
vherever  tl 
^vater-powc 


CO\COUli. 


.jai) 


o 


heir  superior  quality,  and  the  freedom  and  precision 
)f  their  fracture,  wherever  the  wedge  is  judiciously 
applied.  Great  quantities  have  been  transported  to 
Boston,  and  other  citHs  farther  distant,  for  building 
stone.  A  large  rock,  which  was  cut  in  pieces  in  1823, 
sold  for  ^6,129  in  Boston.  This  single  rock  made 
10,500  feet  of  facing  stone  and  ornamental  work — 
and  the  aggregate  weight  of  all  the  blocks  (smooth 
hewn)  was  550  tons,  it  having  lost  only  50  tons  in 
being  prepared  for  the  market,  after  it  was  brought  to 
the  prison  yard.  The  fine  blocks  broken  out  of  the 
old  Doulders,  for  the  posts  of  fer  es,  as  well  as  for 
steps,  mill  stones,  &,c.  must  have  shown  th«^  excellence 
of  the  granite  of  this  part  of  the  country.  The  same 
characteristics,  in  greater  or  less  degrees,  will  be 
found  to  attend  the  whole  of  the  granite  range  of  the 
White  Mountains,  till  its  last  appearr^nce  about  Bath, 
on  Connecticut  river.  It  is  uncommon,  in  this  part  of 
the  country,  to  find  a  single  rock  formation  extending 
such  a  distance  without  any  interruption.  To  what 
different  dates  geologists  may  Itf^reafter  refer  the 
coarsest  varieties  on  Mount  Washington,  the  disinte- 
fi^rating  rocks  of  Red  Mountain,  the  boulders  of 
VVinnipiseogee  Lake,  interspersed  with  their  crystals 
of  felspar  tliree  or  four  inches  in  length,  and  the 
white,  fine-grained  granite  of  Concord  and  Chelmsford, 
it  is  not  for" the  hasty  traveller  to  inquire.  Doubtless 
many  interesting  facts  will  be  elucidated,  when  scien- 
tific men  shall  devote  their  researches  to  the  subject, 
rind  trace  the  boulders  along  the  Ammonoosuc  and 
Winnipiseogee  Lake,  to  the  rocks  and  mountains  from 
which  some  long  past  convulsion  has  torn  them  away. 
The  Merrimack  River  has  been  rendered  naviga- 
ble, by  various  improvements,  from  Concord  to 
Chelmsford,  where  the  Middlesex  Canal  opens  a  com- 
munication directly  to  Boston,  28  miles.  Small  manu- 
facturinj^  villages  succeed  each  other  along  the  banks 
vherever  the  canals  round  the  falls  and  rapids  afford 
water-power.      Some   of  them  we  have  noticed. 


340 


KOSTOxN  TO  TUL  WIIITJ:  ^lOl'MAIKs;. 


Jn  1825  a  plan  was  formed  for  extendii\ic  the  improvt- 
ments,  ana  to  render  the  river  navigable  to  Newbury- 
port,  on  the  coast,  by  making  a  canal  rotmd  the  falls, 
near  Haverhill.  The  expense  wa«  estimated  at 
^200,000,  and  it  was  believed  ih?*  ''  sale  of  water 
privileges  would  repay  a  large  pa. .  ..  the  sum. 

A  direct  wa|er  communication  is  kept  up  between 
this  river  and  Boston,  through  the  Middlesex  Canal, 
by  means  of  boats,  which  carry  merchandise  down 
for  $5  a  ton,  and  bring  it  up  for  $7. 

llOADS. 

Several  lines  of  stage  coaches  meet  in  this  town 
three  times  a  week.  Three  go  to  Boston,  one  to 
Portsmouth,  one  to  Plymouth,  one  to  Haverhill,  and 
one  to  Burlington,  by  the  way  of  Windsor,  Another 
line  has  been  established  between  this  place  and  Con- 
way, on  the  road  to  the  Kotch  in  the  Mountains. 

fFrom  Plymouth  a  stage  wagon  eoes  through  Fran* 
conia  Notch  to  Littleton.  The  road  follows  the  Pemi- 
gewasset,  through  fine,  magnificent  scenery.  The 
country,  however,  is  almost  uninhabited  until  reach- 
ing Franconia,  where  are  iron  works,  and  a  curious 
profile  on  a  mountain,  called  the  Old  Man  of  the 
Mountain,  (See  Index,  Franconia.)  There  is  an  ex- 
cellent inn  at  Littleton :  the  new  brick  one.  The 
place  is  about  40  miles  from  Plymouth,] 

[Two  routes  have  been  proposed  for  connecting  the 
Merrimack  and  Connecticut :  Lst,  by  Baker's  River 
to  Wentworth ;  and  2d,  by  way  of  Sunapee  Lake, 
810  feet  above  the  Connecticut,  and  858  above  the 
Merrimack  at  Concord.] 

There  is  a  road  on  each  side  of  the  lake  towards 
Conway,  but  that  on  the  west  is  recommended.  At 
all  events,  the  traveller  should  spend  a  day  at  Centre 
Harbour,  to  which  the  road  is  pleasant  and  the  coun- 
try agreeable,  although  there  are  but  few  villages  on 
the  way. 


\\  IIS NIFI8 COG KE    LAKE. 


J4I 


rovfc- 
bury- 
falls, 
id  at 
water 

Iween 
Danal. 
down 


Two  roads  from  Concord  lead  to  Meredith  Bridge 
Village — (Badger's)  24  miles  distant :  one  by  Sand-* 
bomton  bridge  (Tilton's),  15  miles — the  other  by  the 
Shaker  village  (Shaker's  Inn  and  CoggswelFs),  12 
miles. 

From  M.  B.  Village,  delightfully  situated  between 
two  bays,  and  on  the  beautiful  river  that  never  freezes, 
it  is  nine  miles  to  the  shore  of  the  Lake  at  Meredith 
Cove,  and  thirteen  to  Centre  Harbour.  (Center's  and 
Moulton's.) 

For  some  miles  before  reaching  that  place,  the 
country  begins  to  assume  the  features  of  bold  and 
mountain  scenery.  Even  before  arriving  at  the  lake, 
the  prospect  is  varied  with  man^  of  those  noble  ele- 
vations which  rise  to  such  a  height  of  grandeur  and 
sublimity  as  the  traveller  proceeds  ;^  and  the  i'requent 
dimpses  afforded  between  the  sloping  hills,  over  the 
beautiful  lake  below,  by  a  happy  contrast  increase 
the  effect. 


WINNIPISEOGEE  LAKE. 

The  number  and  diversity  of  the  islands  with  which 
the  lake  is  spangled,  will  be  objects  of  particular  ad- 
miration. They  are  countless  for  multitude,  and  in 
size  present  all  gradations  between  a  single  rock 
and  a  surface  sufficient  for  several  extensive  farms. 
Iron  ore  is  found  in  Gunstock  Mountain,  south  of  the 
lake. 

If  a  steamboat  should  be  placed  on  Winnipiseo&:ee 
Lake,  the  traveller  hardly  need  be  advised  to  take 
advantage  of  it  to  make  an  excursion.  A  company 
was  to  be  formed  with  this  object. 

Centre  Harboub. 

There  are  two  inns  here,  at  either  of  which  the  tra- 
veller may  find  himself  comfortable,  and  where  he 
will  be  amply  rewarded,  if  the  weather  be  fine,  by 


•  ii 


34Si         BOSTON  TO  THE  WIIITK  MOLNTAINS. 

stopping  at  least  a  day  to  make  an  excursion  to  tht 
top  of 

Red  Mountain. 

This  eminence  may  be  about  1500  feet  in  height, 
and  is  accessible  for  about  two-thirds  of  the  way  in  a 
carriage  or  on  horseback,  though  not  without  some 
difficulty  on  account  of  the  steepness  and  roughness 
of  the  road.  Indeed,  the  path  is  very  rocky  for  half  a 
mile  or  more  before  reaching  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tain, and  the  hardy  pedestrian  will  prefer  to  leave  his 
horse  at  the  main  road,  before  turning  off  by  the  mill. 
The  traveller  should  direct  his  course  towards  a  little 
notch  he  will  see  about  three-quarters  of  the  distance 
up,  where  a  cultivated  field  and  a  fence  are  visible. 
From  the  house  situated  there,  he  must  turn  towards 
the  left,  and  follow  a  path  to  the  summit. 

An  early  visit  is  recommended,  as  the  scene  is  much 
improved  by  an  oblique  light,  and  the  morning  is  on 
several  accounts  to  be  preferred. 

The  following  sketch  of  the  scene  was  noted  down 
on  the  spot,  and  may  be  taken  as  generally  correct. 

North,  the  eastern  end  of  Squam  Lake,  and  part  of 
a  pond  lying  near  it,  with  the  range  of  the  Sandwich 
Mountains  behind,  stretching  off  towards  the  east,  with 
numerous  dark  brown  peaks,  partly  cultivated  about 
their  bases,  and  enveloped  above  with  forests,  except- 
ing their  summits,  which  are  generally  divested  of 
verdure.  Far  beyond  these  appear  several  loftier 
peaks,  Avhich  might  be  mistaken  for  the  White  Moun- 
tains, were  they  visible  from  this  point.  An  interme- 
diate peak  witn  rocky  precipices  may  be  White-faced 
Mountain. 

East-JVorth'Ea^,  The  eye  ranges  up  the  spacious 
valley  through  which  lies  the  way  to  the  White  Moun- 
tains; and  the  road  which  is  to  conduct  the  traveller 
seems  diminished  to  the  dimensions  of  a  garden  walk. 
Chomway*  or.  as  it  is  familiarly  called,  Corrnivmi 


VILW    moM   UEU    3lOlMAiiV. 


hakf  rises  on  the  left ;  while  the  noble  ridge  of  the 
Ossipee  Mountains  begins  nearer  at  hand  on  the  right, 
and  almost  overshadows  the  observer  with  its  enor- 
mous size.  The  sides  of  these  mountains  show  a 
beautiful  display  of  farms,  interspersed  with  wood- 
lots  and  dwellings,  which  in  many  places  have  en- 
croached far  towards  the  summits,  and  in  others  pur- 
sue the  slope  of  the  fertile  uplands  to  the  valley  at 
their  feet.  Numerous  elevations  appear  at  a  greater 
distance,  and  range  themselves  in  lines  to  complete 
the  perspective  of  a  most  magnificent  vista,  which 
finally  closes  at  a  ridge,  whose  shade  is  reduced  by 
its  remoteness  to  the  colour  of  a  cloud.  A  prominent 
and  remarkable  mountain,  which  appears  scarcely 
less  distant,  is  called  Pickwacket  Mountain,  and  rises 
by  the  Saco  River,  near  the  place  where  Captain 
Level  fought  his  well-known  battle  with  the  Indians  ; 
and  the  fine  valley  between  is  the  country  passed  over 
in  that  fatal  expedition,  both  in  the  approach  and  the 
retreat. 

East.  The  view  abuts  upon  the  Ossipee  Mountains, 
and  no  variety  is  afforded  until  we  turn  to  the 

South-South'East,  In  that  direction,  and  farther  to 
the  right,  the  whole  surface  of  Winnipiseogee  Lake 
lies  charmingly  spread  out  to  view,  varied  by  nume- 
rous points  and  headlands,  and  interspersed  with  beau- 
tiful islands  which  man  despairs  to  number.  Several 
distant  elevations  appear,  on  this  side  of  which  the 
<loping  land  just  mentioned  extends  for  several  miles 
along  the  shore,  with  a  well-cultivated  surface  spot- 
ted in  all  directions  with  large  barns  and  farm-house«, 
to  the  very  margin  of  the  lake.  There  numerous 
points  run  out  far  into  the  water,  to  complete  the 
labyrinths  formed  by  the  islands.  Gunstock  Moun- 
tain rises  one  point  east  of  south,  just  on  the  left  of 
which  opens  the  entrance  of  Merry-meeting  Bay. 
The  elevated  land  on  the  right  of  that  is  Rattlesnake 
Island,  named  from  the  venomous  reptiles  with  which 
*t  abounds  ;  over  this  the  distant  land  appears  high. 


rJ 


u 


BOSTON  TO  THU:  WHITE  MOliiNTAJJN&i. 


South-b^-west  rises  a  high  hill  resembling  the  Ossipee 
in  the  richness  of  its  slopes. 

The  Sovth'West  and  West  is  agreeably  varied  with 
wood-lots  and  cleared  fields,  scattered  over  an  undu- 
ly ted  surface,  which  extends  for  many  miles,  in  some 
places  quite  to  the  horizon,  and  in  others  to  the  broken 
boutidary  of  tall  but  distant  mountains.  In  the  south- 
west appear  two  or  three  peaks,  so  far  removed  that 
they  are  almost  lost  in  the  blue  of  the  sky.  Nearly 
west  are  seen  several  ridges  of  inferior  magnitude, 
which,  approaching  as  the  eye  slowly  moves  towards 
the  left,  at  length  come  near  the  lake,  and  disappear 
behind  the  neighbouring  mountains. 

Long  Pond  may  be  distinguished  by  its  shining  sur- 
face between  the  west  and  south,  with  several  other 
little  sheets  of  water,  which  lie  in  tranquillity  under 
the  shelter  of  the  hills. 

Winnipiseogee  Lake  is  19  miles  in  length,  from  Cen- 
tre Harbour  to  Alton,  at  the  south-eastern  extremity. 
Merry-meeting  Bay  lies  beyond.  Several  of  the 
islands  are  large,  and  contain  good  farms  and  wealthy 
inhabitants,  although  only  two  or  three  of  them  belong 
to  any  town,  or  pay  any  taxes.  Some  of  their  names 
are  Rattlesnake,  Cow,  Bear,  and  Moon  Island ;  also, 
Half  Mile,  One  Mile,  Two  Mile  Island,  &c.  &c. 
None  of  them  contain  churches ;  and  although  they 
have  no  school-houses,  yet  sufficient  attention  is  paid 
to  the  rudiments  of  education  to  render  the  children 
intelligent.* 

♦  Winnipiseogee  Lake,  according  to  surveys  made  by  Mr.  Baldwin  in 
1S25,  is  501  feet  alrave  tiie  ocean.  It  has  been  proposed  to  begin  a  canal 
from  Moi  ry-nieeiiiig  River,  at  the  soutii  end,  to  Dover,  a  distance  of  28 
miles,  and  to  cominue  the  navigation  through  this  lake,  and  Long, 
Square,  and  Liltle  :?quaw  Lakes,  to  Merrimack  River,  making  in  all  u 
distance  of  65  miles.  It  will  be  necessary  to  raise  the  lake  two  feet  by 
a  dam  at  the  outlet,  and  to  cut  to  the  depth  of  about  17  feet  for  7  miles. 
The  estimates  have  been  made  for  a  canal  of  these  dimensions:  25  feel 
wide  at  the  bottom,  4  fret  of  water,  with  stone  locks  13  feet  in  the  clear, 
and  83  feet  long.  It  wV>  require  CO  locks,  which  will  cost  $5,500  each, 
and  the  cost  from  the  lake  to  Dover  is  computed  at  ?5390,962.  If  con 
tinued  through  the  lakes  to  Merrimack  River,  to  meet  a  canal  from 
J^:!kf?r's  Rivvr,  th'j  c.v.icnsfj  woul'l  be  incrcasrc-d  to  nbuui  ^TM  IT?     A^ 


SUUAM  LAKi^. 


3-kb 


Dssipee 

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children 


Squam  Lake  lies  west  from  Red  Mountain^  and  like 
Winnipiseogee  Lake,  abounds  not  only  in  islands,  but 
in  fish  of  the  finest  descriptions.  Fine  trout  are  caught 
here  in  great  abundance,  and  of  a  size  superior  to  those 
of  the  other  lake.  The  trout  of  Winnipiseogee  Lake 
vary  from  1  to  4  pounds  in  weight,  while  those  of 
Squam  Lake  are  between  4  and  10.  They  are  some- 
times  caught  of  nearly  double  this  size ;  but  that  is 
very  uncommon.  The  trout  fishery  fs  chiefly  carried 
on  during  the  winter,  when  great  quantities  are  salted 
for  the  Boston  market.  Perch  also  abound  very  much 
in  these  waters,  and  are  remarkably  fine 

Geology,  The  sides  of  Red  Mountain  are  covered 
with  half  decomposed  granite.  (On  the  south-eastern 
side  of  the  lake  a  bed  of  porcelain  clay  has  been  dis- 
covered, which  is  probably  derived  fronl  a  similar 
source.)  The  granite  is  speckled  with  hornblende 
and  black  mica.  No  rocks  are  seen  in  situ,  except 
near  the  summit,  where  they  bear  a  gentle  dip  towards 
the  north,  and  are  slightly  tinged  with  reddish  quartz 
and  felspar. 

The  hue  of  the  shrubbery  in  autumn  has  given  the 
mountain  its  name.  The  summit  is  strewed  with  loose 
fragments ;  and  musquetoes  and  hlack  flies  often  abound 
there. 

A  few  days  may  be  spent  at  Centre  Harbour  very 
agreeably,  in  making  shooting  and  fishing  excursions 
in  the  neighbourhood,  or  in  sailing  upon  the  lake,  which 
abounds  in  the  most  interesting  variety  of  scenes.  On 
leaving  this  place  by  water,  at  the  distance  of  five  miles, 
the  White  Mountains  rise  into  view  above  the  interme- 
diate peaks,  and  continue  in  sight  quite  across  the  lake. 

A  few  deer  are  still  found  in  some  places  in  the 
neighbourhood,  but  being  protected  by  law,  and  still 
more  by  their  scarcity,  are  very  rarely  taken. 


fe7;n  1 


r-o 


that  point,  the  distance  from  the  Connecticut,  by  Baker's  River,  is  34 
miles.  The  facilities  these  works  would  qffiird  fur  iBimofUctHriiig  would 
^•?  very  valuable,  but  the  number  of  locks  will  be  a  great  objection. 

G  g 


;H4t> 


BOSTON  TO  THE  WHITE  MOUNT AliXS. 


From  Centke  Harbour  to  Conway. 

Proceedine  north-east  from  Centre  Harbour,  you 
enter  the  valley  between  the  two  chains  of  mountains 
seen  from  the  top  of  Red  Mountain,  and  pass  through 
Moultonboro'  and  Tamworth.  The  surface  is  irregu- 
lar, and  much  of^the  land  uncleared  ;  but  settlements 
have  extended  far  up  the  sides  of  some  of  the  n)oun- 
tains,  and  farms  are  occasionally  discovered  quite  at 
the  top.  The  features  of  the  scenery  are  bold  and 
striking. 

Eaton  Meeting  House,  Two  miles  northwardly 
from  this,  Ossipee  Lake  may  be  seen  by  leaving  the 
road ;  but  it  has  nothing  very  interesting  in  its  ap- 
pearance. 

Near  Atkinson's  inn  is  the  Lead  Mine,  discovered 
three  or  four  years  since.  A  shaft  has  been  sunk 
about  50  feet,  with  a  horizontal  drift,  and  the  ore  is 
good. 

Conway,  6  miles. 

At  Conway  there  is  a  house  kept  by  Mr.  Abbett, 
at  the  dividing  of  the  roads,  which  is  comfortable, 
although  heretofore  without  a  tavern  sign.  The  view 
of  the  White  Mountains  is  very  fine  from  this  place, 
presenting  a  succession  of  lotty  ridges,  the  most  dis- 
tant of  which  are  the  peaks  of  Mounts  Washington, 
Adams,  Jefferson,  Madison,  Monroe,  and  Quincy,  The 
most  prominent  elevation  on  the  right,  with  two  sum- 
mits, IS  Kearsearge,  or  Pickwaket :  a  level  meadow 
lies  in  the  foreground,  with  an  isolated,  woody  hill  in 
the  middle,  and  the  Saco  River,  which  rises  on  Mount 
Washington,  and  flows  down  a  narrow  valley,  with 
many  meanderings. 

The  shortest  road  from  Conway  to  the  mountains 
leads  directly  to  Bartlett :  but  the  most  travelled  as 
well  as  the  most  agreeable  route  is  by  the  way  of 


ClIALViiEATE   SPRING. 


347 


Fiyeburgh,  where  will  be  seen  the  beautiful  tract  of 
level  country  thrr)ue:h  which  meanders  the  Saco  River, 
and  the  great  Pickvvaket  Mountain,  which  rises  from 
its  border.  That  was  the  beautiful  and  favourite  resi- 
dence of  the  nation  of  Pickwaket  Indians,  and  on  the 
bank  of  Lovel's  Pond  was  foug^ht  a  bloody  battle  be- 
tween them  and  a  company  of  troops  from  Massachu- 
setts, in  the  year  1725. 

[It  is  probable  that  a  road  will  soon  be  made  round 
the  north  end  of  the  White  Mountains,  through  the 
town  of  Adams,  to  avoid  the  Notch.  The  land  is 
level  in  that  direction,  along  the  course  of  the  Andros- 
coggin, and  the  distance  to  Lancaster  nearly  the  same. 
Whenever  it  shall  be  completed,  it  will  offer  a  veiy 
agreeable  route  to  the  traveller,  with  fine  view^s,  but 
not  so  wild  as  those  on  the  present  route. 

The  White  Mountains  are  interesting,  and  worthy 
of  attention  from  every  side  in  which  they  are  brouf^ht 
under  the  traveller's  view  ;  and  if  any  one  should  wish 
to  visit  them  from  the  town  of  Adams,  he  may  be 
gratified  by  pursuing  a  path  not  unfVequently  trodden 
Dpt'ore.  Mr.  Stephen  Meserve,  of  that  place,  has  often 
obligingly  favoured  strangers  with  much  useful  local  in- 
formation concerning  the  best  routes  and  the  principal 
objects  of  curiosity.  The  mountains  present  a  steep 
acclivity  in  the  direction  channelled  by  numerous 
avalanches  which  have  rushed  down  at  aifferent  pe- 
riods. The  Pinkham  road  runs  at  their  base ;  and 
the  New  River  may  be  seen,  which  has  undergone 
transmutations  which  the  Greeks  might  have  recorded 
in  their  mythology.  It  was  thrown  out  of  its  natural 
cha-nnel  in  1776,  By  an  immense  slide,  or  avalanche ; 
and  has  been  restored  to  it  by  that  of  1826,  whose  ra^ 
vages  are  so  wide-sprea.!    .k1  ^tremendous.] 

The  Chalybeate  Sphing. 

Turn  oflf  from  the  road  to  the  west  about  2  miles 
north  of  Abbett's.  cro?^?  the  Saco,  and  enter  a  field. 


348 


BOSTON  TO  THE  WHFrE  MOUNTAINS. 


■K 

El 

I 

1 

^^IHw 

1 

1 

1 

11 

1 

where  it  is  found.  A  house  is  kept  in  the  neighbour- 
hood by  Mrs.  M^MUlan,  which  has  been  lately  over- 
flowing with  visiters  during  the  warm  season.  The 
country  abounds  in  scenes  attractive  to  persons  of 
taste.  A  little  church  is  situated  in  a  secluded  and 
romantic  valley;  and  the  place  is  destined  for  a 
fashionable  resort. 

The  place  is  off  the  road,  and  may  be  missed.  It 
is  in  a  va«Iey,  with  mountains  on  every  side  except 
the  south-east.  From  near  the  church,  the  White 
Mountains  are  in  sight.  Two  or  three  miles  above, 
the  Saco  valley  bends  to  the  left,  and  Ellis^s  River 
comes  down  a  narrower  vale  in  front.  Up  the  course 
of  this  stream  was  formerly  a  route  by  which  the 
highest  peaks  were  ascended.  A  footpath  leaves  it 
in  Adams,  and  goes  on  to  Sbelburne,  &c.  It  is  7  miles 
to  Hairs,  in  Bartlett. 

Fryeburgh. 

The  township  of  Fryeburgh,  in  its  extent  of  six 
square  miles,  embraces  a  rich  and  beautiful  valley, 
secluded  on  every  side  by  a  wild  and  mountainous 
range  of  country.  The  Saco  River,  taking  its  rise  on 
Mount  Washington,  and  flowing  through  the  Notch  in 
the  White  Hills,  passes  down  the  vailoy  to  Conway, 
where  it  finds  the  termination  of  the  southern  range; 
and  then  turning  abruptly  to  the  east,  soon  enters  the 
charming  meadows  of  Fryeburgh,  and  performs  a  ser- 
pentine course  of  no  less  than  36  miles  within  the 
limits  of  the  township. 

The  Indian  Fort  was  on  a  gentle  hill  at  the  western 
side  of  the  village,  which  commands  a  view  of  the 
Saco  valley  six  miles  up  its  course,  and  six  miles  down. 

Lovel's  Pojvd 

is  on  an  isthmus,  about  one  mile  south-east  from  the 
village,  and  is  memorable  as  the  scene  of  one  of  the 


most  se 
warfare 
The! 
of  the  p 
fi'om  tha 
north  er 
action, 
and  it  is 


In  172i 
secret  es 
Pickwakt 
French,  I 
frontier,  s< 
offered  1( 
pany  cons 
tomed  to 
young  Mr 
somewhat 
its  name. 
They   1 
Ossipee  t 
placed  the 
the  Saco,  e 
north-west 
ceding   th< 
(which  is 
oiiles,)  am 
The  nex 
and  the  gn 
encampme 
ambush,  fir 
eight  men. 
corner  of  t 
and  defend 
yfthe   unf( 
^^rest,  suffe 


LOV£L  8  EXFEDITIOiS. 


34J» 


iehboui- 
ily  over- 
n.  The 
arsons  of 
ded  and 
id  for  a 

ssed.  It 
«  except 
e  White 
Bs  above, 
s's  River 
he  course 
^hich  the 
leaves  it 
is  7  miles 


ent  of  six 
ul  valley, 
)untainous 
its  rise  on 
Notch  in 
Conway, 
rn  range ; 
enters  the 
rms  a  ser- 
/vithin  the 

le  western 
ew  of  the 
liles  down. 


from  the 
)ne  of  the 


most  severe  and  disastrous  battles  in  the  old  partisan 
warfare  against  the  Indians. 

The  Portland  Road  passes  along  the  western  side 
of  the  pond,  and  at  present  affords  a  view  of  it  only 
^om  that  part  of  the  high  ground  which  is  near  its 
north  end.  This,  however,  was  the  place  of  the 
action.  Another  road  runs  very  near  the  iiorth  shore  ; 
and  it  is  a  pleasant  ride  to  the  place. 

Lovel's  Expedition. 

In  1725,  Captain  Lovel  was  induced  to  undertake  a 
secret  expedition  through  the  wilderness  against  the 
Pickwaket  tribe  of  Indians,  who,  instigated  by  the 
French,  bad  committed  many  depredations  on  the 
frontier,  so  that  the  general  court  of  Massachusetts  had 
offered  100  pounds  each  for  their  scalps.  His  com- 
pany consisted  of  30  or  40  men,  many  of  them  accus- 
tomed to  the  life  of  hardy  hunters  and  settlers,  with 
young  Mr.  Frye  for  their  chaplain,  whose  history  was 
somewhat  romantic, and  from  whom  this  town  received 
its  name. 

They  passed  up  Winnipiseogee  Lake,  then  to 
Gssipee  Pond,  where  they  built  a  blockhouse,  and 
placed  their  stores  ;  then  following  up  the  course  of 
the  Saco,  encamped  at  the  mouth  of  Mill  Brook  at  the 
north-west  corner  of  Level's  Pond,  on  the  night  pre- 
ceding the  battle,  intending  to  cross  the  isthmus, 
(which  is  reduced  by  the  pond  to  the  breadth  of  li 
miles,)  and  fall  upon  the  Indian  Fort. 

The  next  morning  they  deviated  from  their  route, 
and  the  great  body  of  Indians  having  discovered  the 
encampment,  and  the  way  they  had  gone,  formed  an 
ambush,  fired  upon  them  on  their  return,  and  killed 
eight  men.  The  white  men  retreated  to  the  north-east 
corner  of  the  pond,  where  is  a  narrow  strip  of  land, 
and  defended  themselves  till  night ;  and  the  remains 
of  the  unfortunate  expedition  returned  through  the 
%est,  suffering  from  hunger  and  fatisrue,  and  some  of 


Mr 


^bo 


BOSTON  TO  TUB  WHITE  MOIyT; TAINS. 


their  from  wounds.  One  of  the  first  wounded  escaped 
by  getting  into  a  canoe,  which  was  driven  across  the 
pond  by  a  north  wind  ;  but  a  fugitive^  who  reached 
the  blockhouse  at  Ossipee  Lake,  reported  that  the  ex- 
pedition had  been  entirely  cut  off,  so  that  the  garrison 
nastily  removed  the  provisions,  and  thus  increased  the 
sufferings  of  the  survivors. 

The  Stage  Coach  from  Conway  to  Portland  passes 
through  Fryeburgh  early  in  the  morning,  one  or  per- 
haps more  days  in  the  week,  and  arrives  at  Portland 
the  same  evening,  by  Hiram,  Baldwin,  Standish,  and 
Gorham. 

The  coach  to  Concord  goes  through  Conway. 

[Paris  is  a  pleas-^nt  and  flourishing  town,  about  35 
miles  east  from  Fryeburgh  ;  but  the  roads  and  the 
inns  in  that  part  of  the  country  are  generally  poor.] 

A  tremendous  catastrophe  occurred  among  the 
White  Mountains  on  the  night  of  Aug.  28th,  1826.  A 
storm  of  rain,  unprecei'ented  within  the  memory  of 
the  oldest  inhabitants,  deluged  the  principal  peaks  of 
the  mountains,  and  poured  such  an  inundation  upon 
the  valleys  and  plains  below,  that  it  is  commonly  at- 
tributed to  the  **  bursting  of  a  cloud  ;"  although  that 
expression  is  a  very  ill-aenned  one.  The  effects  pro- 
duced by  the  floodf  will  remain  for  centuries  ;  and  as 
many  oi  these  lie  exposed  to  the  eye,  the  route  will 
offer  many  new  objects  interesting  to  an  intelligent 
traveller.  It  will  afford  him  a  very  desirable  oppor- 
tunity to  observe,  in  some  places,  the  structure  of  the 
mountains,  where  their  interior  has  been  laid  bare  bv 
the  falling  of  vast  quantities  of  earth  and  rocks  ;  arJ 
in  others,  exemplifications  to  confirm  the  modern  geog- 
nostical  theories,  to  explain  the  phenomena  observable 
in  valleys,  plains,  and  the  courses  of  rivers.  Geolo- 
gists and  mineralogists,  too,  may  expect  to  meet  with 
curious  and  valuable  specimens,  among  the  enormous 
wrecks  they  will  observe  on  either  hand. 

The  inundation  was  so  great  and  so  sudden,  that  the 
channels  of  the  streams  were  totally  insufficient  to 


THE    INUNDATION   OF    liiZti, 


3bl 


enoimous 


admit  of  the  passa&:e  of  the  water,  which  conse- 
quently overflowed  the  litJe  level  valleys  at  the  feet 
of  the  mountains.  Innumerable  torrents  immediately 
formed  on  all  sides ;  and  such  deep  trenches  were  cut 
by  the  rushing:  water,  that  vast  bodies  of  earth  and 
stones  fell  from  the  mountains,  bearing  with  them  the 
forests  that  had  covered  them  for  n|^es.  Some  of  these 
"slides,"  as  they  are  here  popularly  denominated, 
(known  among  the  Alps  as  "  avalanches  de  terre^^^)  are 
supposed  to  have  been  half  a  mile  in  breadth,  and 
froLi  one  to  (ive  miles  ih  length.  Scarcely  any  natural 
occurrence  can  be  imagined  more  sublime ;  and 
among  the  devastation  which  it  has  left  to  testify  the 
power  of  the  elements,  the  traveller  will  be  filled  with 
awe  at  the  thought  of  that  Being  by  whom  they  are 
controlled  and  directed. 
The   streams   brought   away  with  them   immense 

auantities  of  earth  and  sand,  which  the  turbid  water 
eposited,  when  any  obstacle  threw  it  back,  in  tern- 
poraiy  ponds  and  lakes.  The  forest  trees  were  also 
noated  down,  and  may  now  be  observed  in  great  num- 
bers, frequently  several  miles  from  the  places  where 
they  were  rooted  up.  The  timber  was  often  marked 
with  deep  grooves  and  trenches,  made  by  the  rocks 
which  passed  over  them  during  their  descent  from  the 
mountains  ;  and  great  heaps  oi  trees  are  deposited  in 
some  places,  while  in  others,  the  soil  of  the  little 
meadows  is  buried  with  earth,  sand,  or  rocks,  to  the 
depth  of  several  feet. 

The  turnpike  road  leading  through  this  romantic 
country,  was  twenty  miles  in  length,  but  was  almost 
entirely  destroyed.  Twenty-one  of  the  twenty-three 
bridges  upon  it  were  demolished ;  one  of  them,  built 
with  stone,  cost  $1000.  In  some  places,  the  Saco  river 
ran  along  the  road,  and  cut  down  deep  channels. 

The  nilley  House  was  thf  scene  of  a  most  molan- 
choljT  tragedy  on  the  night  above  mentioned,  when 
this  inundation  occurred.  Several  days  previously,  a 
large  "  slide"  came  down  from  the  mountains  behind 


m^ 


:i6J{i 


THE    WHITE   MOlTNTAlNsi. 


it,  and  passed  so  near  as  to  causp  great  alarm,  without 
any  injury  to  the  inmaies.  The  house  vvas  occupied 
by  Mr.  Calvin  Willey,  whose  wife  was  a  young  wo- 
man of  a  very  interesting  character,  and  of  an  educa- 
tion not  to  be  looked  for  in  so  wild  a  region.  They 
had  a  number  of  young  children,  and  \\  eir  family  at 
the  time  included  several  other  persons,  amounting  in 
all  to  eleven.  They  were  waked  in  the  niffht  by  the 
noise  of  the  storm,  or  niore  probably,  by  the  second 
descent  of  avalanches  from  the  neighbouring  moun- 
tains ;  and  fled  in  their  night  clothes  from  the  house  to 
seek  their  safety,  but  thus  threw  themselves  in  the  way 
of  destruction.  One  of  the  slides,  100  feet  high, 
stopped  within  3  feet  of  the  house.  Another  took 
away  the  barn,  and  overwhelmed  the  family.  Nothing 
was  found  of  them  for  some  time  :  their  clothes  were 
lying  at  their  bedsides,  the  house  not  having  been 
started  on  its  foundation :  an  immense  heap  of  earth 
and  timber,  which  had  slid  down,  having  stopped  before 
it  touched  it ;  and  they  had  a  1  been  crushed  on  leaving 
the  door,  or  borne  away  with  the  water  that  overflowed 
the  meadow.  The  bodies  of  several  of  them  were 
never  found.  A  catastrophe  so  melanchf  "ly,  and  at  the 
same  time  so  singular  in  its  circu?nstances,  has  hardly 
ever  occurred.  It  will  always  furnish  the  traveller 
with  a  melancholy  subject  of  reflection. 

Barileit  is  a  comfortable  village,  situated  in  a  rich 
valley,  or  interval,  of  about  300  acres,  where  the  view 
is  bounded  on  every  side  by  near  and  lofty  mountains. 
The  inn  of  the  place  is  kept  by  *  Judge  Hfall.'  There 
is  another  interval  among  the  mountains  westward, 
which,  although  it  contains  much  good  cleared  land, 
has  been  converted  into  a  common,  in  consequence  of 
the  difficulty  of  making  a  good  road  to  it.  Pursuing 
still  the  course  of  the  narrow  valley,  against  the  cur- 
rent of  the  Saco,  the  country  is  found  uncleared,  except 
two  or  three  pretty  little  meadows  ;  and  destitute  of 
inhabitants,  excepting  only  three  or  fc  poor  families, 
until  arriving"  at 


nancy's  hill. 


without 
ccupied 
ing  wo- 
j  educa- 
.  They 
imily  at 
inting  in 
it  by  the 
?  second 
e:  nioun- 

house  to 
I  the  way 
?et  high, 
her  took 

Nothing 
hes  were 
ing  been 
p  of  earth 
)ed  before 
on  leaving 
verflowed 


in  a  rich 
J  the  view 
nountains. 
.'    There 
westward, 
•ared  land, 
quence  of 
Pursuing 
5t  the  cur- 
•ed,  except 
lestitute  of 
)r  families. 


Crawford's  Farm, 

seven  and  a  half  miles  south  of  the  Notch.  Here  the 
traveller  will  be  cheerfully  and  connfortably  enter- 
tained, although  the  house  does  not  wear  the  sign  of 
an  inn.  The  water  rose  in  this  house  two  feet  in  the 
flood  of  1826.  This  is  the  place  from  which  visiters 
formerly  began  their  excursions  to  the  summit  of  the 
mountains  :  but  the  best  place  is  at  the  new  house  at 
the  Notch. 

Prospect  Mountain,  one  of  the  principal  peaks,  pre- 
sents itself  to  view  a  little  before  arriving  at  the  first 
Crawford^  with  its  smooth  rounded  summit  of  brown 
moss,  rising  several  hundred  feet  above  the  region  of 
vegetation,  and  offering  an  aspect  which  distinguishes 
these  from  the  other  elevations. 

The  climate  in  this  narrow  valley  is  still  so  warm 
as  to  favour  the  growth  of  various  trees  which  are 
scarcely  to  be  found  a  few  miles  further  north.  The 
forests  are  here  formed  of  spruce,  ash,  beech,  maple, 
sugar  maple,  &c.  Mr.  Crawford  has  about  100  acres 
cleared,  and  raises  Indian  corn  very  well,  which  will 
not  come  to  maturity  beyond.  His  orchard  contains 
700  apple  trees. 

This  is  one  of  the  principal  stopping  places  for  the 
sleighs,  which  pass  the  mountains  in  great  numbers 
during  the  winter,  for  Portland,  Boston,  &c.  There 
are  sometimes  80  horses  in  the  stables. 

J^ancy^s  Hill  is  a  small  elevation  a  few  miles  north 
of  this  place.  In  1773,  a  young  woman  of  respectable 
connexions,  who  accompanied  a  family  of  settlers  to 
Dartmouth  (now  Jefferson,)  set  out  in  the  winter  to 
return  to  Portsmouth,  alone  and  on  foot,  her  lover  ha- 
ving promised  to  meet  her  there  and  marry  her. 
There  was  then  no  house  nearer  than  Bartlett,  30 
miles.  Nancy  was  found  by  some  travellers  in  this 
spot,  frozen   and   covered  with   ice,  under    a   hut 


.-551 


THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 


formed  of  branches  of  trees,  which  was  the  only  iheltei 
to  be  found  on  iUe  way. 

The  Willey  House 

is  situated  in  a  secluded  little  valley  about  5  miles 
north  of  Crawford's,  and  was  long  the  only  building  in  a 
distance  of  12  miles.  It  has  sometimes  been  unin- 
habited during  the  summer  season,  thoutfh  open,  with 
its  cheerless  shelter,  to  all  comers :  in  the  winter  a 
family  occupied  it  to  keep  a  fire,  lodgings,  and  a  little 
food,  provided  for  the  travellers  and  wagoners,  \*!io 
might  otherwise  perish  for  want  of  the  necessaries  of 
life.  For  an  account  of  the  melancholy  catastrophe 
which  has  marked  this  place  with  an  affecting  and 
lasting  association,  see  the  previous  remarks  on  the 
inundation  of  1826.     {Seepage  351.) 

The  climate  is  so  cold,  that  the  land  is  not  worth 
cultivating  ;  and  although  the  place  has  been  occupied 
by  several  tenants,  no  one  would  keep  the  house  in  re- 
pair, even  rent  free.  There  aie  no  good  uplands,  the 
soil  there  being  all  gravel  ;  and  the  climate  is  sensibly 
colder  than  at  the  last  stopping  place. 

Ther»_  is  a  place  near  the  Jyotchf  where  the  road 
suffered  severe  injury.  It  had  been  built  up  against 
the  side  of  a  mountain,  on  a  wall  40  or  50  feet  high, 
and  about  30  yards  in  extent,  at  the  expense  of  $500. 
This  whole  fabric  was  swept  away  by  a  mass  of  earth, 
rocks,  and  trees,  which  came  from  hah  a  mile  up  the 
side  of  the  mountain,  and  rushing  down  at  an  angle  of 
about  45",  precipitated  itself  into  the  bed  of  the  Saco, 
which  is  nearly  300  feel  below. 

In  repairing  this  road  in  the  winter,  the  workmen 
bad  great  difficulty  in  getting  over  the  obstructions. 
They  expected  to  find  but  little  daylight  at  that  late 
season  of  the  year ;  but  they  found  that  the  summits 
of  the  mountains  received  very  earl)^  intelligence  of 
morning,  and  the  snows  reflected  it  into  the  valleys 
and  ravines. 


nil 

H 
M 


U. 


^i^**<SH(Si 


y  sheltei 


■■  -f^—^jf 


t  5  miles 
Iding  in  a 
?en  unin- 
pen,  with 
winter  a 
nd  a  little 
iiers,  \\'.io 
essaries  of 
atastrophe 
fcting  and 
rks  on  the 

not  worth 
n  occupied 
lOUse  inre- 
[j)land»,  the 
is  sensibly 

;  the  road 
up  against 
)  feet  high, 
56  of  $500. 
ss  of  earth, 
nile  up  the 
an  angle  of 
f  the  Saco, 

:>  workmen 
)stvuctions. 
it  that  late 
le  summits 
dligence  of 
the  valleys 


♦;>r!*^ 


14'*. 


'  ':-^^H 


>'A  "r.i 


^ 


...  J^k 


ill; 


»\%'^.jp<?tm^y.fim^'?f'xrv' 


'  Theros 
distance  b 
observes  I 
tous  mour 
valley,  aiK 

Tke  Fit 
crossing  tl 
sub'iTip  a 
beyond  is 

About  li 
in  coining 


is  so  narroi 

and  the  Sai 

feet  in  brc 

the  Amnioi 

Washingtor 

though  the 

latter  joins 

Ammonoosi 

about  600  \ 

Notch.    tI 

about  a  mil 

long  ravine, 

The  J^ok 

cently  erect 

modation,  ai 

up  his  quart 

small  ineadc 

when  the  w 

flowed  the  r 

occurred  by 

age  was  ope 

advantaeeou 

for  a  public 

mountains,  p 

•distance  of  i 


THE   ^UTCH. 


3bb 


"  The  road  rises  with  a  steep  ascent  for  a  considerable 
distance  before  it  reaches  the  Notch,  and  the  traveller 
observes  two  cataracts,  one  pouring  down  a  precipi- 
tous mountain  at  a  distance  on  the  west  side  of  toe 
valley,  and  the  other,  which  is  called 

Tke  Flume,  rushing  down  on  the  riR:ht-hand,  and 
crossing  the  road  under  a  bridge.  The  scenery  is 
sub'i«Tie  and  impressive  beyond  description.  Just 
beyond  is  another  Flume. 

About  150  yards  beyond  is  the  first  great  slide  seen 
in  coming  from  the  Notch. 

The  Notch 

is  so  narrow  as  to  allow  only  room  enough  for  the  path 
and  the  Saco,  which  is  here  a  mere  brook  only  four 
feet  in  breadth.  It  is  remarkable  that  the  Saco  and 
the  AmmorKX)suc  spring  from  fountains  on  Mount 
Washington,  within,  perhaps,  60  yards  of  each  other, 
though  the  former  empties  into  trie  Atlantic,  and  the 
latter  joins  Connecticut  Ki  ver.  Another  branch  of  the 
Ammonoosuc  approaches  the  Saco  in  one  place,  within 
about  600  Yards.  They  are  both  crossed  beyond  the 
Notch.  The  head  waters  of  the  Merrimack  rise  within 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  of  this  place  ;  and  run  down  a 
long  ravine,  little  less  remarkable  than  that  of  the  Saco. 
The  Notch  Meadow.  Here  a  house  has  been  re- 
cently erected,  at  which  the  traveller  will  find  accom- 
modation, and  where  it  is  recommended  to  him  to  take 
up  his  quarters  during  his  stay.  It  is  situated  on  a 
small  meadow,  probaoly  formed  at  an  early  period, 
when  the  water  of  the  Saco  was  set  back  and  over- 
dewed  the  neighbouring  surface,  before  the  convulsion 
occurred  by  wnich  the  >lotch  was  formed,  and  a  pass- 
age was  opened  to  it.  The  spot  is  probably  t(i»e  most 
advantageous  that  could  have  been  chosen  on  the  road, 
for  a  public  house.  It  is  sheltered  by  the  neighbouring 
mountainvS,  presents  a  level  surface,  and  is  within  the 
distance  of  a  few  yards  of  the  remarkable  pass  which 


^fi 


356 


THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS. 


■t    .  , 


4-  >^-  '. 


opens  the  way  through  the  towering  ridge  southward, 
along  the  avenue  to  the  still  distant  regions  of  civili. 
zation.  The  change  presented  to  one  coming  down  is 
so  sudden,  that  the  mind  is  greatly  affected.  From 
the  level  surface  over  which  he  has  proceeded  hy  a 
smooth  road,  that  bends  along  one  margin  of  tbe 
meadow,  while  the  Saco  bruok  has  been  leisurely 
making  the  circuit  of  the  other  side,  at  a  sudden  turn 
round  a  rude  projecting  rock,  he  hnds  the  meadow 
suddenly  terminated,  a  dark  and  narrow  defile  opening 
beside,  and  the  stream  appearing  and  disappearing 
almost  at  the  same  instant,  as  it  begins  to  dart  down 
the  steep  descent  which  is  opened  at  once  to  the  cur- 
rent and  the  road.  A  traveller  arriving  at  this  spot 
from  the  westward,  can  hardly  paint  in  his  own  ima- 
gination an  adequate  picture  of  the  wild  and  magnifi- 
cent objects  which  await  him  along  the  route  ;  and  he 
who  has  already  passed  among  them  will  never  be  able 
to  erase  the  impression  from  his  memory. 

From  a  distance  the  striped  and  channelled  ap> 
pearance  of  the  mountains  prepares  the  mind  in  some 
measure  for  the  effects  of  the  great  inundation  ;  but, 
however  great  the  effort  the  imagination  may  have 
made,  the  fancy  will  here  find  itself  greatly  surpassed. 

A  road  was  first  made  through  the  Notch  in  1785. 
It  was  50  or  60  feet  higher  than  the  present  turnpike, 
and  so  steep  that  it  was  necessary  to  draw  horsea  and 
wagons  up  with  ropes.  The  assessment  for  tbe  turn- 
pike was  made  in  1 806. 

Two  rocks  stand  at  the  sides  of  this  remarkable 
passage,  one  20,  and  the  other  about  30  feet,  in  per- 
pendicular height.  They  are  about  20  feet  asunder, 
at  6  or  7  yards  from  the  north  end  ;  then  they  open 
to  30  feet.  The  part  which  appears  to  have  been  cut 
through  is  about  120  teet  lon^.  The  Notch  meadow 
opens  beyond ;  and  after  a  ride  of  4^  miles,  the  tra- 
veller reaches  another  comfortable  house,  kept  by  Mr. 
E.  A.  Crawford,  where  also  he  will  be  receivea  and 
entertained. 


rr 


From 

Thenc 

Retu 

Thenc 

The 

to  be  cro 

undation 

(if  the  w^ 


MOtJK'f    WASHINGTON. 


367 


Etkan  A.  Crawford* s  House,  The  master  of  the 
house  also  will  act  as  a  guide,  and  is  qualified  for  the 
office,  both  by  his  intimate  acquaintance  with  the  way, 
and  the  various  kind  attentions  and  amusing  anecdotes 
with  which  he  knows  how  to  relieve  the  tediousness 
of  the  ascent.  The  best  arrangement  is  to  set  out  in 
the  afternoon,  spend  the  night  at  the  wigwam  or 
^^Campy^  ascend  the  mountain  early  in  the  morning,  to 
have  |he  benefit  of  the  view  by  sunrise,  and  return  to 
the  inn  before  the  ensuing  evening.  It  is  6  or  7  miles 
to  the  "  Camp,"  3  of  which  are  passable  in  a  carriage 
and  the  rest  on  horseback,  though  much  impeded  by 
th«  devastations  of  the  great  storm. 

MOUNT  WASHINGTON. 

The  ascent  of  the  mountain  was  formerly  a  most 
arduous  undertaking,  and  was  very  rarely  performed, 
but  several  ladies  have  lately  been  enumerated  among 
those  who  have  gained  the  summit.  The  whole  way 
lies  through  a  p^^rfect  forest.  The  first  6  or  7  miles  are 
over  a  surface  comparatively  level ;  but  the  last  two 
miles  and  a  quarter  are  up  an  ascent  not  differing  much 
from  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees. 

The  time  to  perform  the  different  parts  of  this  ex- 
cursion may  be  estimated  as  follows : 

hours. 

From  the  inn  to  the  camp,       2 

Thence  to  the  summit,  2  miles  and  93  rods,    2  or  21 
Returning  from  sud  nit  to  camp,      ...    If 

Thence  to  the  inn, 2 

The  streams  of  the  Ammonoosuc  River,  which  are 
to  be  crossed  seven  times,  show  the  ravages  of  the  in- 
undation of  1826,  but  a  comfortable  bed,  and  a  fire, 
(if  the  weather  be  chill,)  will  be  found  very  welcome  at 

II  h 


M 


i 


:^di\ 


THE    VVHlTJi    MOUoNTAl.N*. 


The  Cami', 


6 J  miles  from  Crawford's.  Here  provisions  of  dififei- 
ent  kinds  will  be  produced,  and  even  cooked  by  a 
cheerful  fire ;  and  if  the  travellers  are  sportsmen, 
and  the  season  is  favourable,  a  dish  of  fine  trout  may 
soon  be  obtained  from  the  romantic  little  stream  which 
dashes  by  within  a  short  distance. 

The  ascent  of  Mount  Washington  begins  just  at 
hand,  and  the  most  arduous  exertion  will  be  necessary 
to  attain  the  summit,  which  seems  to  fly  before  the 
stranger  when  he  deems  it  just  attained,  and  to  look 
down  in  derision  from  a  new  and  more  hopeless  height. 
The  first  part  of  the  way  is  through  a  thick  forest  of 
heavy  timber,  which  is  suddenly  succeeded  by  a 
girdle  of  dwarf  and  knarled  fir-trees,  10  or  15  feet 
nigh,  and  80  rods,  or  about  450  yards,  broad ;  which, 
ending  as  suddenly  as  they  began,  give  place  to  a  kind 
of  short  bushes,  and  finally  a  thin  bed  of  moss,  not 
half  sufficient  to  conceal  the  immense  granite  rock* 
which  deform  the  surface.  For  more  than  a  mile,  the 
surface  is  entirely  destitute  of  trees.  A  few  strag- 
gling spiders,  and  several  species  of  little  flowering 
plants,  are  the  only  objects  that  attract  the  attention, 
under  the  feet. 

The  following  heights  are  stated  to  be  those  of  the 
different  peaks,  above  the  level  of  Connecticut  River 
at  Lancaster : 

Washington,  5,350  ;  Jeflferson,  5,261 ;  Adams^  5,183 ; 
Madison,  5,039  ;  Monroe,  4,932  ;  Quincy,  4,470. 

Mount  Washington  is  believed  to  be  more  than  6,400 
feet  above  the  ocean. 

In  a  clear  atmosphere  the  view  is  sublime,  and  al- 
most boundless.  The  fiuest  part  of  it  is  towards  the 
south-east  and  south.  Looking  down  the  valley* 
through  which  the  road  has  conducted  us,  a  fine  suc- 
cession  of  mountainoii?  sumniits   appear   for  man'v 


THE    LAKE    OF    THE    CL017DS. 


350 


ins  just  at 
necessary 
before  the 
id  to  look 
less  height, 
k  forest  of 
sded  by  a 
or  15  feet 
id ;  which, 
re  to  a  kind 
f  moss,  not 
anite  rock> 
a  mile,  the 
few  strag- 
flowering 
attention, 


im&,  5,183 ; 
1,470. 
than  6,400 

^Tle,  and  al- 

)wards  the 

the   valley. 

a  fine  sue- 

for   mapv 


miles,  extending  beyond  the  bright  surface  of  Winnipi- 
«eo^ee  Lake. 

Towards  the  south-east  also,  the  eye  ranges  over  an 
extent  of  surface,  which  quite  bewilders  the  mind. 
Mountains,  hills,  and  valleys,  farm  houses,  villages, 
and  towns,  add  their  variety  to  the  natural  features  of 
ihe  country  ;  and  the  ocean  may  be  discovered  at  the 
horizon  with  the  help  of  a  telescope,  although  the 
sharpest  sight  has  never  been  able  to  distinguish  it 
without  such  assistance.  In  that  direction  lies  Port- 
land, the  capital  of  Maine ;  and  nearer,  Lovel's  Pond. 

On  the  nortk-east  is  seen  the  valley  of  the  Andros- 
coggin River,  which  abounds  in  wild  .and  romantic 
scenery,  and  was  the  usual  passage  by  which  the  In- 
dians, in  their  hostile  incursions  from  Canada,  used  to 
approach  the  eastern  frontier  settlements  of  Massachu- 
etts  and  New-Hampshire.  Beyond,  are  the  Ktardin 
Hills,  near  the  extremity  of  Maine. 

North,  the  country  is  more  wild  and  uncultivated ; 
and  the  Umbagog  Lake  is  seen,  from  which  flows  the 
Androscoggin. 

West,  the  nearer  view  is  over  a  mountainous  region, 
[covered  with  a  thick  forest,  through  which  only  an  oc- 
casional opening  is  perceived,  formed  by  the  farms 
'  or  clearings)  of  the  hardy  inhabitants,  beyond,  the 
hills  are  seen  to  rise  from  the  opposite  shore  of  Con- 
Inecticut  River,  the  surface  of  which  is  every  where 
I  hidden  from  view,  and  the  summits,  rising  higher  and 

libber,  terminate  in  the  ridges  of  the  Green  Mountains 
I  in  Vermont. 

South-westerly  is  seen  the  Grand  Monadnock. 

The  Indians  knew  the  White  Mountains  by  the 
I  name  of  Agiocochook,  and  regarded  them  as  inac- 
cessible, or  at  least  represented  them  so  to  white  men. 

The  Lake  of  the  Clouds 

a  little  pond,  near  the  summit  of  Mount  Monroe,  of 
j'f'ftiitiful  clear  wat<?r;  and  supplies  the  head  stream  of 


'W 


oGO 


TUE    WHITE   MOUNTAINS. 


the  Ammonoosuc  River.  This  little  current  imme- 
diately begins  its  descent,  aud  dashes  in  a  headlong 
<  ourse  of  several  thousand  feet,  into  the  valley  near  the 
iincampment. 

Geology.  Loose  fragments  of  granite  are  every 
where  scattered  over  the  mountain,  with  some  speci- 
mens of  gneiss.  The  granite  is  generally  gray,  and 
at  first  fine-grained,  but  grows  coarser  as  we  ascend, 
and  is  occasionally  sprinkled  with  small  garnets.  At 
the  summit  it  frequently  contains  a  little  black  tour- 
maline, sometimes  in  crossing  crystals.  On  the  sum- 
mit, also,  some  of  the  granite  is  tinged  with  red,  al- 
though much  of  it  is  coloured  bright  green  by  lichens, 
dampened  by  the  humidity  of  the  clouds,  and  inter- 
spersed with  thick  and  soft  gray  moss.  The  grain  of 
the  coarse  granite  is  elongated  ;  and  what  strikes  the 
visiter  as  very  singular  is,  that  not  a  single  reck  is  to 
be  found  in  its  original  place — every  thing  bears  the 
mark  of  removal ;  and  this,  taken  into  view  with  the 
precipice  on  the  northern  side,  seems  to  indicate  that 
the  summit  of  the  mountain  has  fallen  down  and  disap- 
peared. 

The  general  belief  now  seems  to  be,  that  the  lofty 
peak  above  us  is  the  highest  elevation  in  North  Ame- 
rica, except  Mexico  and  some  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. The  inhospitable  nature  of  the  climate  is  such 
as  to  forbid  all  hopes  of  future  improvement ;  so  that 
the  feeling  of  sublimity,  produced  by  the  lonely  and 
desolate  character  of  this  desert  region,  is  increased 
by  the  reflection,  that  it  is  destined  to  be  a  wilderness 
for  ever. 

The  only  places  susceptible  of  cultivation  in  the 
heart  of  the  mountains,  are  the  little  meadows  inha- 
bited by  the  Crawfords,  the  Notch,  and  Wi^ley  Mea- 
dows ;  and  there  the  interval  of  warm  weather  is  so 
short  in  the  year,  that  few  vegetables  can  arrive  at 
maturity,  with  all  the  rapidity  of  growth  which  distin- 
guishes such  cold  regions. 

To  those  who  are  fond  of  field  sports,  the  forests 


and  rjv 
summei 
wild  b 
besides 
buffalo 
and  it  i 
in  great 
as  the  h 
sippi.  ] 
are  kill 
boldly  ( 

house,  a 
bear  are 
places ; 
man.    I 
of  the  C 
Mountai 
scarce  in 
The  V 
mountaii 
cinity  of 
almost  w 
still  at  01 
tion  of  t 
tion  of  i\ 
and  it  is 
During  t 
only  the 
the  Note 
a  strong 
The  s 
vested  V 
only  wh( 
the  day 
sometime 
of  the  m< 
Roads. 
River  ; 
f<^   Lanci 


ROAUS^. 


361 


and  livers  aflbrd  every  advantage,  during  the  brief 
summer  which  visits  the  valleys.  Various  kinds  of 
wild  birds  and  game  are  to  be  found  in  the  woods, 
besides  bears,  wild  cats,  and  deer.  The  moose  and 
buffalo  were  formerly  abundant  among:  the  mountains  ; 
and  it  is  scarcely  thirty  years  since  they  were  killed 
in  great  numbers,  merely  for  their  hides  and  tallow  ; 
as  the  latter  still  are  in  the  deserts  beyond  the  Missis- 
sippi. Deer  are  common  in  the  woods,  and  frequently 
are  killed  by  the  hunters.  Sometimes  they  come 
boldly  down  into  the  little  meadow  before  Crawford's 
house,  and  quietly  ffraze  with  the  cattle.  The  black 
bear  are  occasionally  seen  in  the  more  unf*t  jented 
places ;  but  they  will  always  endeavour  h  /oid  a 
man.  A  large  species  of  elk,  he"  e  known  by  ttie  name 
of  the  Cariboo,  nas  made  its  appe?,raifice  in  the  White 
Mountains  within  a  few  years ;  but  they  are  still  very 
scarce  in  this  part  of  the  country. 

The  weather  is  liable  to  frequent  changes  in  the 
mountainous  region,  which  is  partly  owing  to  the  vi- 
cinity of  the  Jyotch,  through  which  the  wind  blows, 
almost  without  ceasing,  even  when  the  air  is  perfectly 
still  at  only  a  short  distance  from  it.  From  tne  situa- 
tion of  the  mountains,  it  is  impossible  that  the  direc- 
tion of  the  v/ind  should  vary  materially  in  the  valley  ; 
and  it  is  therefore,  of  course,  always  north  or  south. 
During  the  winter  it  is  often  very  violent,  so  that  not 
only  tbe  snow  is  prevented  from  lying  on  the  path  at 
the  Notch,  but  the  surface  is  swept  of  every  thing  that 
a  strong  wind  can  remove. 

The  summits  of  the  mountains  are  frequently  in- 
vested with  mist,  when  the  sky  is  clear ;  and  those 
only  who  inhabit  the  vicinity  are  able  to  tell  whether 
the' day  is  to  be  favourable  for  the  ascent.  The  mists 
sometimes  collect  in  the  valleys,  and  then  present  some 
of  the  most  singular  and  beautiful  appearances. 

Roads,  There  are  two  roads  hence  to  Connecticut 
River;  one  over  Cherry  Mountain  (very  laborious) 
fo   Lancaster ;    the    other,   shorter,   through   Breton 

Hh2 


:^l 


■ 


.)d2 


HOUTE    FROM    JBObTOA    TO    MA1\H. 


Woods,  Bethlehem,  and  Littleton,  (rough  and  stony)  b . 
Bath,  34  miles.    [See  Index.] 

ROUTE  FROM  BOSTON  TO  MAINE. 

A  line  of  Steam  Navigation  was  commenced  in 
1823,  between  Boston  and  Portland  and  Bath  ;  and  ex- 
tended in  1824,  about  250  miles  from  Bath  to  Castport 
in  one  direction,  and  about  40  miles  to  Augusta  in  an- 
other ;  and  in  1825,  again  about  70  miles  from  Eastport 
to  St.  John's,  in  New-Brunswick,  by  proprietors  resid- 
ing at  Eastport ;  and  from  St.  John's  up  the  River  St. 
Jonn's  about  80  miles  to  Frederick  town,  by  proprietors 
residing  at  St.  John's  ;  and  in  another  direction  by  the 
Easlport  proprietors,  from  Eastport  about  30  miles  on 
the  ISchoodic  to  St.  Aiidrew's  and  Calais.  Two  boats 
were  afterward  put  upon  a  line  from  Eastport  to  An- 
napolis and  Windsor,  m  Nova  Scotia.  Another  boat  is 
run  from  Eastport  to  Dennisville,  a  distance  of  20  or 
30  miles.  The  line  before  occupied,  including  all  its 
collateral  branches  and  ramifications,  exceeds  500 
miles,  and  is  now  about  700  miles. 

It  is  proposed  in  Boston,  to  enlarge  the  canal  across 
Cape  Ann,  to  admit  the  steamboats,  which  will  save 
15  miles,  and  give  an  opportunity  to  communicate,  di- 
rectly or  by  smaller  boats,  with  Gloucester,  Newbu- 
ryport,  Portsmouth,  Dover,  and  Kennebunk. 

The  boats  go  about  100  miles  a  day,  and  pass  so 
near  the  shore  as  to  afford  many  interesting  views  of 
the  numerous  islands,  points,  and  bays,  which  abound 
along  the  coast.  In  1826,  the  steamboat  was  burned 
on  this  line.  The  price  was,  from  Boston  to  Portland, 
$5 ;  thence  to  Eastport,  $6,with  a  deduction  for  forward 
passengers.     (The  arrangements  for  1830  not  known.) 

There  are  coaches  going  to  Salem  every  hour  in  the 
morning  and  forenoon ;  and  it  may,  perhaps,  be  conve- 
nient to  take  a  seat  in  one  of  them,  as  Salem  is  well 
worthy  of  at  least  a  day's  delay.  Indeed,  if  con- 
venient, the  stranger  will  be  gratified  with  several 


MEVEKLN  . 


363 


vides  in  the  vicinity  ot'  that  place,  particularly  to  Mar- 
blehead. 

Lynn,  9  miles  from  Boston. 

This  town  is  devoted  to  making  shoes ;  ereat  num« 
bers  of  which  are  annually  exported.  Each  house,  al« 
most  without  exception,  has  a  little  shop  connected 
with  it,  in  which  the  men  and  boys  employ  themselves 
in  this  manufacture.  There  are  in  Lynn  from  70  to  80 
manufacturers  of  shoes,  and  probably  not  far  from  1500 
operatives.  Some  of  the  manufacturers  employ  50 
bands  each,  and  one  is  said  to  manufacture  1200  pair 
per  week.  This,  if  we  allow  12  working  hours  a 
(lays,  gives  one  pair  of  shoes  about  every  3  minutes. 

There  is  a  mineral  spring  in  this  town,  which  was 
celebrated  many  years  ago. 

The  Lynn  Beach,  of  which  mention  has  before  been 
made,  is  in  this  town,  and  lies  on  the  way  to  the  fash- 
ionable retreat  at  Nahant.  It  is  of  hard  sand,  offer- 
ing an  excellent  natural  road,  but  is  impassable  at  high 
water.  The  bay  on  which  it  looks  is  one  of  the  places 
where  the  famous  sea  serpent  was  seen  several  years 


ago. 


There  is  a  good  inn  in  the  town  where  the  stage 
coaches  stop. 

The  country  beyond  is  rather  hilly  and  uninterest- 
ing ;  but  the  road  is  good. 

Beverly 

IS  a  town  which  joins  Salem  so  closely,  as  apparently 
to  form  a  part  of  it.  It  has  a  longj  si^reet  through  which 
we  pass,  nearly  at  the  foot  of  a  hi^b,  barren  hill.  This 
eminence  is  remarkable  in  the  history  of  witchcraft : 
as  it  is  tho  spot  where  numerous  persons,  condemned 
for  that  crime,  jn  Salem,  were  executed. 


rUM 


RorrK    FKOM    B©srON    TO    >T\INE. 


SALEM. 

The  Lafayette  Hotel. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  populous,  wealthy,  and  beau- 
tiful towns  in  New-Enp;lana.  It  was  one  of  the  ear- 
liest settlements  made  in  Massachusetts  Bay  ;  and  the 
planting:  of  the  colony  is  annually  celebrated.  Go- 
vernor Endicott,  one  of  the  most  disting:uished  indi- 
viduals in  the  early  history  of  this  part  of  the  country, 
resided  here.     The  place  was  first  settled  in  1623. 

Salem  was  for  many  years  enpged  in  an  extensive 
and  lucrative  commerce,  particularly  with  China  ;  and 
the  appearance  of  the  town  is  sufficient  to  show  that 
if  still  contains  a  great  deal  of  wealth.  The  harbour 
is  fine,  and  the  wHarves  still  well  supplied  with  stores ; 
but  the  trade  of  the  place  has  materially  diminished. 
The  streets  are  generally  too  narrow  ;  but  the  banks, 
insurance  offices,  and  churches  are  many  of  them 
handsome  buildings.  The  Square  is  a  large  and  beau- 
tiful tract  of  ground,  near  the  centre  of  the  town. 
About  it  are  seen  many  of  the  finest  private  buildings 
in  the  place,  which,  indeed,  may  be  compared  for  size 
and  elegance  with  those  in  any  part  of  the  United 
States. 

There  is  a  High  School  in  Salem,  besides  18  public 
and  68  private  schools.  In  1828,  the  public  schools 
contained  about  500  boys  and  300  ^irls. 

The  Marine  Museum  is  an  institution  highly  cre- 
ditable to  the  town,  being  an  association  of  respect- 
able nautical  and  commercial  individuals,  formed  for 
the  purpose  of  making  useful  observations,  and  col- 
lecting curiosities  from  all  quarters  of  the  world.  No 
one  can  become  a  member  who  has  not  doubled  Cape 
Horn,  or  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  either  as  master  or 
supercargo  of  a  vessel ;  and  each  of  them  is  supplied 
with  a  journal,  in  which  he  is  to  note  down  such  re- 
marks as  he  thinks  important,  durina:  his  voyasff* 


These  ar 

and  the 

liandsomc 

Avell  wort 

Access 

members 

net  being 

no  fee  he 

laiige,  we 

all  quarte] 

ing  to  all 

ranjB^emenl 

or  indeed 

mination  o 

.   The  foil 

interesting 

'Scientific  ti 

"Siste  V 

"fit  prae 

"*  Obstuf 

vidi 

"  Pontus, 

"  Ob,  An 

"  Quam 

.  The  top 

sive  view  c 

harbour,  an 

A  Mill  Dai 

close  a  trac 

ibr  mills,  or 

dam.     The 

^he  power  ( 


There  is 
the  end  of  a 
"^alem.    It 


/ 


MARBLEHEAI). 


365 


These  are  submitted  to  the  inspection  ot*  a  committee ;  . 
and  the  curiosities  brought  home  are  deposited  in  a 
handsome  building  belonging  to  the  society,  which  is 
uell  worthy  the  particulai  attention  of  strangers. 

Access  is  readily  gained  by  application  to  any  of  the 
members:  this  extensive  and  highly  interesting  cabi- 
net being  closed  only  for  the  purpose  of  security,  and 
no  fee  beinff  required  for  admission.  The  room  is 
large,  well  lighted,  and  filled  with  curiosities  from 
all  quarters  of  the  world,  and  many  specimens  belong- 
ing to  all  the  branches  of  natural  history.  The  ar- 
rangement is  made  with  great  taste,  and  several  hours, 
or  indeed  days,  will  hardly  be  sufficient  for  an  exa- 
mination of  all  it  contains. 

The  following  lines  were  written  after  a  visit  to  this 
interesting   institution,   by  Beltrami,  a  distinguished 
scientific  traveller,  in  the  year  1827  : 
"Siste  Viator!  Siste,  mirari!  est  Orbis  in  urbe, 
"Et  praebet  pulchrum  cuncta  miranda  Salem.— 
'^Obstupui,  hie  Superum,  hinc  hominum  prodigia 

vidi, 
"  Pontus,  Magna  Parens,  Ignis  et  Ipse  favent.— 
"  Oh,  America  :  Oh,  felix  tellus,  populusque  beatus ! 
"  Qjiiam  nobis  toUunt  dant  tibi  fata  vicem. — 
The  top  of  the  hotel  commands  a  fine  and  exten- 
sive view  over  the  town  and  its  environs,  with  the 
harbour,  and  the  fine  coves  which  set  up  on  both  sides. 
A  Mill  Dam  Company  has  been  incorporated,  to  en- 
close a  tract  of  water  near  this  town,  to  obtain  power 
for  mills,  on  the  plan  of  the  Boston  and  Roxbury  mill 
dam.     The  receiving  basin  is  to  be  about  70  acres,  and 
the  power  equal  to  40  mills. 

Mahbleuead. 

There  is  a  good  road  to  this  town,  which  stands  at 
the  end  of  a  rocky  promontory,  4  miles  south-east  from 
Salem.    It  contains  a  handsome  square,  and  some  very 


i^i. 


M 


:)6G 


liOLTK    I'KOM    BOSTON    10    M  MM:. 


g;ood  houses  ;  but  it  is  principally  inhabited  by  lisher- 
nien,  whose  manner  of  life  precludes,  in  a  great  de- 
j?ree,  the  intellectual  improvement  generally  so  cha- 
racteristic of  New-England.  The  harbour  is  a  small 
bay,  protected  by  barren  rocks,  and  affords  shelter  to 
the  numerous  fishing  schooners  employed  in  the  cod 
fishery.  The  men  and  boys  are  absent  from  home  a 
great  part  of  the  year  ;  as  each  vessel  usually  makes 
three  fishing  voyages,  or  "yares,"  as  they  are  here 
calledj  every  season.  They  lie  on  the  banks  until 
they  have  caught  a  load  of  hsh,  which  are  opened  and 
salted  as  soon  as  taken.  The  vessels  then  return,  and 
the  fish  are  spread  to  dry  on  wooden  frames,  called 
flakes ;  great  numbers  of  which  will  be  seen  on  the 
shore.  A  few  vessels  still  go  to  the  Labrador  coast 
lor  fish.  There  is  a  fort  at  the  extremity  of  tl;/;  town, 
which  commands  the  entrance  to  the  harbour,  and  af- 
fords a  view  of  many  miles  over  the  neighbouring 
sheets  of  water.  The  islands  at  the  entrance  of  Sa- 
lem are  wild  and  rocky ;  and  the  sea  breaks  over 
them  with  violence  in  an  easterly  storm.  Towards 
the  south  are  seen  several  headlands  of  this  iron-bound 
coast ;  which,  for  a  great  extent,  even  down  to  the 
extremity  of  Massachusetts,  must  have  appeared  one 
of  the  most  inhospitable  to  the  pilgrims  who  began 
their  settlements  on  this  part  of  New-England. 

Newbijryport. 

Stage  House,  or  Merrimack  Hotel,  on  the  hill.  This 
is  a  large,  and,  to  a  considerable  extent,  a  regularly 
built  town,  38  miles  from  Boston.  The  greater  part 
of  it  lies  in  squares,  and  the  best  streets  are  built  en- 
tirely of  brick.  What  is  commonly  called  Newbury- 
port,  however,  is  composed  of  two  distinct  towns. 
The  original  township  of  Newbury  includes  that  part 
which  reaches  to  within  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of 
the  shore  ;  and  the  rest,  a  mile  along  the  water,  where 
the  wharves,  the  market  building,  most  of  the  stores. 


MnVUlKil'OKl. 


JG 


shops,  A6C.  are  ibund,  is  all  which  is,  properly  speak- 
ing, called  Newburyport,  although  there  is  no  division 
but  an  imaginaiy  line. 

The  Court  liouse  makes  a  handsome  appe?ranr?,  al 
the  head  of  a  street  running  to  the  river. 

The  monument  of  the  celebrated  Whitefield  is  to 
be  seen  in  the  First  Presbyterian  Church  in  this  town, 
where  his  remains  lie  interred. 

The  harbour  is  fine,  and  the  place  once  enjoyed  a 
brisk  and  lucrative  commerce  ;  out  it  has  suffered  se- 
verely from  two  great  fires,  within  a  few  years,  and 
still  more  from  circumstances  which  cut  oft  the  trade. 
A  plan  has  been  proposed  for  the  improvement  of  the 
navigation  of  the  Merrimack,  which,  if  carried  into 
effect,  can  hardly  fail  to  produce  results  of  great  im- 
portance to  the  place.  The  falls  at  Haverhill  cut  off 
the  boat  navigation,  at  the  distance  of  ?ibout  IS  miles  ; 
but  if  these  were  avoided  by  a  canal,  the  water  com- 
munication would  be  opened  to  Concord,  and  a  ereat 
part  of  the  products  now  sent  to  Boston,  by  the  Mid- 
dlesex Canal,  would  come  to  Newburyport.  It  is  es- 
timated, that  the  work  would  cost  about  two  hundred 
thousand  dollars. 

Stage  Coaches,  The  mail  coach  from  Boston  for 
Portland  arrives  at  7  A.  M.  and  returns  about  2  P.  M. 
There  is  also  an  Accommodation  Line,  which  travels 
only  by  daylight.  The  Concord  coach  leaves  here 
about  noon. 

The  late  Timothy  Dexter's  house  is  now  a  tavern, 
about  half  a  mile  from  the  stage  house  on  the  road  to 
Portsmouth.     The  garden  was  form.erly  curiously  or- 
namented with  wooden  statues  of  distinguished  indi 
viduals. 

Mackerel  Fishery,  It  was  estimated,  in  1829,  thai 
92  vessels  were  employed  in  the  mackerel  fishery, 
with  a  tonnage  of  4,432  tons,  and  about  740  men,  seven 
months  and  a  half  each  year. 

The  bridge  over  the  Merrimack  is  a  most  beautiful 
structure.     Its  length  is  1000  feet :   and,  it  has  foiu 


I  •  i!^ 


36^ 


ROUTE    FROM    BOSTON    TO   SIAINE. 


arches  and  a  draw-bridge,  on  the  side  towards  the 
town.  The  arches  are  supported  by  twelve  chains, 
carried  over  four  towers  in  the  form  of  pyramids,  31 
feet  above  high  water  mark.  The  bases  of  these 
towers  are  of  hewn  stone,  40  by  30  feet,  built  on  lim- 
ber, each  with  a  breakwater  up  the  stream.  TIk; 
chains,  separately,  are  sti}ong  enough  to  bear  22  tons. 
The  brioge,  with  the  road  to  Newburyport,  cost 
$66,000. 

Hampton,  10  miles.  At  Hampton  Beach  is  a  good 
hotel,  which  commands  an  agreeable  view  upon  the 
ocean,  and  the  shore  about  the  Boards  Head. 

Portsmouth, 

62  mile$  from  Boston,  58  ^rom  Portland, 

Brown^s  Stage  House. 

The  environs  of  the  town  show  many  neat  and 
pleasant  houses  of  wood  ;  and  the  middle  part  of  it  is 
principally  of  brick,  with  some  handsome  public 
Duildings,  although  the  streets  are  generally  too  nar- 
row. It  has  been  a  place  of  much  commerce.  The 
old  church  is  a  specimen  of  old  times.  The  Navy 
Yard,  on  an  island  opposite  the  town,  contains  two 
large  ship  buildings,  one  for  frigates  and  the  other  foi 
line-of-battle  ships. 

The  bridge  across  the  Piscataqua,  leads  into  the 
state  of  Maine,  which  was,  until  within  a  few 
years,  a  district  of  Massachusetts.  The  current  is 
very  strong.  The  navy  yard  is  seen  on  the  east,  with 
the  ship  houses,  &c.  13  ships  of  war  have  been  built 
in  this  port  since  1690.  The  Santee,  74,  and  Ala- 
bama, 74,  are  on  the  stocks. 

[Amesbury  is  a  manufacturing  place  on  the  Powow 
River,  3  mites  from  Newbuiyport.  The  river  is  made 
to  drain  several  ponds  by  an  arched  tunnel  du^ 
through  a  hill  about  a  century  ago.    There  is  a  Nai: 


rU£   .NtKBLK. 


:i6'J 


Factory  here,  orip^inally  built  by  the  famous  me- 
chanist Jacob  Perkins.  A  Kollini^nnd  Slitting  Mill  is 
adjoining.  Extensive  Anchor  Works,  now  standing 
still)  arc  on  the  same  dam. 

The  Broadcloth  Factory,  supplied  with  water  by  a 
dam  below,  is  also  not  in  operation.  I'he  Salitbury 
Flannel  Factory  has  2500  spindles,  employs  80  hands, 
and  makes  100  pieces  of  flannel  weekly.  They  have 
built  a  much  larger  one  at  the  upper  falls.  The 
Ameshury  Flannel  Factory  hdve  a  building  40  feet  by 
130,  4  stories  high,  with  500u  spindles,  180  worknien, 
and  makes  200  pieces  a  vveet.  Houses  for  dying, 
bleaching,  and  fulling  are  on  the  whnrf.  There  is  also 
a  machine  shop.  Men  receive  $1,  and  women  50  cts. 
a  day. 

The  building  is  200  feet  long,  50  wide,  5  stories 
high,  and  will  contain  10,000  spindles,  and  make  400 
pieces  in  a  week.  All  the  Flannel  Works  in  full  ope- 
ration will  make  35^000  pieces  f  flannel  in  a  year,  and 
eniploy  about  1000  hands. 

There  are  several  other  mills  and  factories  ;  though 
the  whole  ground  occupied  is  only  40  rods.] 

The  country  on  this  road  is  of  a  gently  rolling  form, 
generally  very  poor,  without  trees,  and  changing  only 
irom  sand  to  rocks ;  and  affords  very  few  objf cts  of 
interest,  except  an  occasional  view  of  the  seashore, 
and  sevi-ral  spots  remarkable  for  their  connexion  with 
the  history  of  the  country. 

York,  There  are  some  pleasant  fields  about  this 
little  place,  but  its  size  is  insignificant,  particularly 
when  contrasted  with  tla  anticipations  formed  of  its 
destiny  at  the  time  of  its  first  settlement;  for  the 
s^round  was  laid  out  for  a  city,  and  the  divisions  of  the 
land  still  retain  much  of  the  regular  form  given  it  by 
the  first  surveyors. 

The  JVublHe  is  a  rocky  point,  4i  miles  from  York, 

with  a  cluster  of  miserable  huts  in  the  rear,  called,  in 

derision,  the  city,  or  metropolis  of  Cape  Neddock, 

from  a  point  of  that  name  still  further  on. ,  ^ 

I  i 


1 1" 

!  t,. 


I  / 


70 


it 01;  IE    IN    MAI^£. 


ii  I 


While  travellinsf  alonff  this  dreary  country,  near  tiic 
place  where  a  round  hill  of  a  peculiar  appearance  first 
presents  itself  in  front,  and  then  the  ocean,  the  road 
passes  the  site  of  an  old  fort  or  blockhouse,  built  be- 
fore Philip's  war.  Nothing  is  now  to  be  seen  of  it 
from  She  road,  excepting  a  part  of  the  old  wall,  which 
is  built  of  large  stones,  laid  with  greater  regularity 
than  is  practised  now.  A  hovel  stands  near  the  wall, 
shaded  by  a  few  trees,  aboui  100  yards  west  of  the 
road. 

The  Agamenticus  Hills  form  a  range  some  distance 
west. 

Lower  Welles,  There  is  a  little  harbour  here,  de- 
fended by  a  sand  bar,  with  a  narrow  entrance  under  a 
rock  ;  but  it  is  almost  dry  at  low  waier. 

Welles,  Tbv  sea  often  breaks  beautifully  «>n  the 
beach,  in  front  of  the  tavern.  Porpoise  point  is  just 
distinguished  in  the  north-east ;  and  the  view  of  the 
sea  is  fine  and  refreshing. 

Three  miles  beyond  is  Breakneck  Hill,  over  which 
falls  a  small  stream,  from  the  height  of  30  feet,  about 
40  yards  from  the  path.  Here,  says  a  blind  tradition, 
a  small  tribe  ol  Indians  met  an  indiscriminate  destruc- 
tion, in  the  following  ii  anner.  Being  on  their  return 
from  their  annual  fi  rhing  excursion  on  the  upper  part 
of  the  stream,  they  despatched  some  of  their  number 
to  make  a  fire  on  the  rock  which  divides  the  falls,  as 
thev  found  they  should  nol  reach  this  place  before 
night.  The  white  men  in  the  neighbourhood,  by  some 
means  learning  their  design,  shot  the  messengers,  and 
then  collecting  the  limbs  of  trees,  made  a  great  fire  on 
the  high  bank  below  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road. 
The  Indians,  says  the  story,  being  deceived,  did  not 
attempt  to  stop  their  canoes  in  season,  and  were  all 
carried  over  the  falls  and  killed.  A  sinular  tale  is  re- 
lated, with  more  appearance  of  credibility,  of  the  falls 
on  the  Androscoggin  River. 

The  Fort  was  half  a  mile  beyond,  or  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  north  from  the  church.    The  site  is  distinguishes^ 


PORTLAND. 


371 


l)y  the  angle  of  an  old  wall,  built  of  large,  regular,  but 
unhewn  stones,  on  the  east  side  of  the  road.  The 
marks  of  the  foundation  appear  to  be  yf^t  visible  a  little 
back,  and  the  situation  is  very  pleasant,  with  a  smooth 
plain  around  it,  and  a  gentle  slope  in  the  rear  to  a  little 
meadow,  where  the  settlers  used  to  obtain  their  hay. 
The  ocean  is  in  full  view  below.  This  little  fortress 
was  once  attacked  by  500  Indians,  who  at  first  sup- 
posed, as  was  the  fact,  that  the  men  were  absent  from 
home.  The  place  was,  however,  very  bravely  and 
successfully  defended  by  five  women,  who  put  on  their 
husbands'  clothes,  and  fired  so  warmly  upon  their  in- 
vaders, as  to  force  them  to  retreat. 

Kennebunk,  25  miles  from  Portland.  Here  the  mail 
coach  from  Portland  stops  for  breakfast.  It  is  a  small 
place,  but  once  carried  on  a  considerable  lumber  trade 
with  the  West  Indies. 

Saco,  fifteen  miles  from  Portland.  Just  south  of  this 
village  is  the  mouth  of  the  Saco,  which  rises  on  Mount 
Washington.  Cutt's  Isl  ind  of  75  acres  divides  the 
streaip.  just  at  the  falls,  and  has  been  converted  to  ma- 
nufacturing purposes. 

The  first  manufactory  erected  by  the  company  was 
intended  for  1,200  spindles  and  360  looms.  It  was 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1830  :  loss  estimated  at  $300,000. 

The  soil  here  is  very  rock^,  e^^sily  furnishing  mate- 
rials for  buildiDg,  which  has  lately  commenced  on  a 
large  scale.  The  fj+ll  is  about  InirJy  feet,  the  water 
abundant  at  allseasoris,  and  tl^ere  is  a  landing  plnce  tor 
vesselsonlya  few  yards  distant,  which  might  greatly  fa- 
vour the  transportation  of  raw  and  manufactured  articles. 
The  land  bought  in  1825  on  the  island  with  a  portion 
of  the  water  power,  cost  about  $  100,000.  Great  quan- 
tities of  timber  have  long  been  sawn  at  these  falls, 

PORTLAND,  15  miles. 

Mitchell's  Hotel.     The  Sta^e  House. 

The  «it»»ation  of  this  place  is  remarkably  fine,  occu- 


M4 


•J  t  M 


KOUTE    IN   3IAIKE. 


pying  the  ridge  and  side  of  a  high  point  of  land  wiUi 
a  handsome,  though  shallow  bay,  on  one  side,  and  the 
harbour  on  the  other.  The  anchorage  is  protected  on 
eveiy  side  by  land,  the  water  is  deep,  and  the  com- 
munication with  the  sea  direct  and  convenient.  Con- 
gress-street runs  along  the  ridge  of  the  hill,  and  con- 
tains a  number  o(  very  elegant  prtvate  houses.  There 
is  also  the  Town  Hall,  with  the  Market  below,  the 
Custom-House,  and  a  beautiful  new  church,  with  gra- 
nite columns.  The  steps  are  fine  blocks  of  granite,  6 
feet  by  9,  brought  from  the  quarry  at  Brunswick,  22 
miles  distant,  and  cost  about  $40  each.  This  street 
rises,  as  it  approaches  the  end  of  the  neck,  or  promon- 
tory, to  the  Observatory,  a  tower  82  feet  high,  and,  with 
its  oase,  142  feet  above  the  water,  commanding  an  ex- 
tensive and  ver}^  fine  view  on  every  side. 

From  the  Observatory,  south  and  south-west  are 
several  distant  eminences :  among  others,  the  Agamen- 
ticus  Hills  ;  north-west  are  seen,  in  clear  weather,  the 
lofty  ridges  and  peaks  of  the  White  Hills  in  New- 
Hampshire,  which  are  discovered  at  sea,  often  before 
the  nearer  land  appears  in  sight.  The  country  on  the 
north  presents  little  that  is  interesting,  and  the  water 
nearer  at  hand  is  only  an  inlet  of  the  sea. 

Cape  Elizabeth  is  the  highland  on  the  south  side  of 
the  harbour ;  and  the  islands,  which  nearly  close  its 
entrance,  are  called  Bang's  and  House  Islands.  Fort 
Preble  stands  on  the  former,  and  Fort  Scammel,  only 
a  blockhouse,  on  the  latter.  It  is  proposed  by  the 
United  States  to  expend  ^165,000  in  enlarging  these 
defences.  Due  east  is  oeguin  Lighthouse,  which  is 
visible  in  clear  weather,  32  miles  distant,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Kennebec.  Nearer,  and  in  the  same  quarter, 
lie  numerous  islands  of  various  forms,  and  divided  by 
little  channels  and  bays,  some  of  which  are  deep. 
They  are  ^ene^ally  covered  with  trees  and  rocks,  but 
present  a  Deautiful  variety  to  the  view  in  that  direc- 
tion. Their  number  is  not  known,  but  is  usually  esti- 
mated at  366,  to  correspond  with  that  of  the  days  in 
the  year. 


roRTLA^l) 


37: 


The  inlrenchments  on  the  hill,  west  of  the  Observa- 
tory, belong  to  Fort  Sumner,  and  part  of  them  were 
made  in  the  Revolutionary  war.  Under  the  bluff,  on 
the  water's  edge,  is  Fort  Burroughs. 

Falmouth  (the  former  name  of  Port!  ind)  was  burnt 
in  the  Revolutionary  war  by  Capt.  Mowatt,  in  the 
British  sloop  of  war  Canceau,  on  the  10th  of  October, 
1775,  on  the  refusal  of  the  inhabitants  to  deliver  up 
their  arms.  About  130  houses,  three-quarters  of  all 
the  place  contained,  were  consumed,  some  being  set 
on  fire  with  brands,  after  a  cannonade  and  bombard- 
ment of  9  hours.  The  jld  church  is  among  the  build- 
ings saved,  and  has  the  mark  of  a  cannon  shot  in  it. 
A  small  part  of  Mitchell's  hotel  belonged  to  one  of 
the  hou.es  not  destroyed. 

There  are  some  fine  stores  and  dwelling-houses  in 
the  middle  of  the  town,  and  the  shore  is  lined  with 
wharves  and  shipping :  for  the  place  is  beginning  to 
prosper  again,  althout^h  it  has  lost  an  extensive  trade 
which  it  cannot  recover.  There  is  a  small  Museum 
in  the  place.  At  the  Athenaeum  will  be  found  news- 
papers from  different  parts  of  the  country,  a  library, 
&ic.  In  1827  there  were  10  primary  schools  here,  con- 
taining 1095  pupils.  Four  of  the  schools  were  on  the 
monitorial  plan.  There  is  a  Female  Orphan  Asylum 
recently  established  here. 

Reiriarks  to  the  Traveller  at  Portland.  The  Boston 
Mail  Coach  leaves  here  every  morning  at  4,  and 
reaches  Boston  at  9  P.  M.;  the  Accommodation  at  8, 
and  arrives  next  day,  stopping  for  tlie  night  at  Ports- 
mouth.* 

1  ♦  The  following  prices  were  clmiged  in  the  steamboats,  between 

different  places,  in  1828. 

From  Boston  to  Augusta,  forwaid  cabin  ^4,  after  do.   $5 
Froni  Boston  to  Bath,  do.  3,       do.  5 

From  Boston  to  Portland,  do.  2,50  do.  4 

From  Portland  to  Ilaliowell  and  Augusta, 52  25 

From  Portland  to  Bath, 100     ' 

From  Bath  to  Richmond, 0  50 

From  Bath  to  Gardiner,  100 

From  l^iTh  to  Ual!(n\ r!l  ;ind  Augupla 1  2r« 

I  12 


^M 


374 


KOLTJi   IN  MAliNJh.. 


The  communication  with  Dover,  Concord,  kc»  i- 
easy,  and  the  traveller  going  in  that  direction  is  re- 
ferred to  the  Index  for  those  and  other  places  in  his 
way.  He  may  take  the  route  to  the  White  Hills  by 
Fryeburgh  ;  the  road  leads  through  a  wild  and  thinly 
populated  country,  but  is  not  devoid  of  interest.  The 
stage  coach  reaches  Conway  in  a  d^  by  this  route, 
passing  through  Gorham,  Standish,  Baldwin,  Hiram, 
and  Frye burgh. 

The  eastern  and  north-eastern  routes  onl^,  remain 
to'be  spoken  of.  The  road  along  the  sea  coast  is  more 
uninteresting,  passing  over  a  rocKy  soil,  and  is  recom- 
mended in  going  from  Portland.  The  upper  road 
leads  through  a  considerable  extent  of  fertile  country, 
indeed  the  garden  of  Maine,  and  shows  several  plea- 
sant and  flourishing  villages,  by  which  it  may  be  more 
agreeable  to  return.  The  settlement  of  a  great  part 
of  that  region,  still,  is  so  recent,  that  the  traveller  will 
not  find  so  good  accommodations,  nor  so  many  objects 
of  interest,  as  in  many  other  parts  of  the  U.  States. 
The  inhabitants,  however,  are  increasing  very  rapidly, 
and  great  improvements  of  every  kind  are  annually 
introduced,  which  produce  a  scene  of  great  activity 
and  prosperity,  particularly  between  the  Kennebec 
and  Penobscot  Rivers. 


Remarks  on  the  Country  North-East  from 

Portland. 

In  consequence  of  the  position,  the  climate,  and  soil 
of  Maine,  the  improvement  of  the  country  has  been 
much  retarded.  Settlements  were  made  on  the  coast 
as  early  as  1607,  and  several  others  not  long  afterward ; 
but  they  suffered  s»^verely  in  the  Indian  wars,  and  their 
vicinity  to  the  French  missions,  which  embraced  all 
the  eastern  part  of  the  present  state,  exposed  them  to 
imminent  danger.  In  later  times  the  population  was 
principally  confined  to  the  seacoast,  for  the  conve- 
nience of  fishing  and  commerce,  and  thus  the  good 


KEMAKKS  ON   TIIA%T.LLING   1\    HAINE. 


•andy  which  lies  some  distance  back  in  the  country, 
was  almost  entirely  neglected.  After  the  revolu- 
tionary war,  this  extensive  region  remained  in  the  con- 
dition of  a  district  belonging  to  Massachusetts.  Within 
a  few  years  it  has  been  received  into  the  Union  as  a 
separate  state  ;  and  agriculture  having  been  intro- 
duced,  the  emigration  from  the  neighbouring  states 
has  rapidly  swelled  its  population.  In  1828  there 
were  33  newspapers  in  the  state  of  Maine. 

In  travelling  in  Maine,  the  stranger  observes  the 
same  order  of  things  as  in  the  interior  of  New-York, 
Ohio,  and  other  parts  of  the  country  which  are  fast 
improving.  It  rs  but  a  few  years  since  a^culture 
was  almost  unknown  here,  and  now  th#*  interior  region 
between  the  Kennebec  and  Penobscot  Rivers  is  well 
peopled,  and  presents  a  scene  of  rural  cultivation  and 
prosperity  rarely  equalled.  That  is  of  course  the  most 
attractive  route  for  the  traveller ;  and  the  road  from 
Portland  lies  through  Augusta  and  Hallowell.  Those 
who  are  going  to  New-Brunswick,  &c.  are  advised  to 
take  this  route,  unless  they  prefer  the  less  fatigui::^ 
mode  of  travelling  in  the  steamboat. 

Most  persons  going  eastward  from  Portland,  will 
wish  to  return;  and  the  brief  tour  vyhich  we  shall 
give  will  be  planned  for  their  convenience  and  plea- 
sure, by  proceeding  6rst  along  the  seacoast,  and  then 
returningv  through  the  fine  tract  of  country  in  the  in- 
terior.      ^ 

It  may  be  proper  here  to  mention,  that  two  roads 
have  been  projected  to  Quebec ;  one  by  the  River 
Kennebec,  and  the  other  by  the  Penobscot.  At  pre- 
sent there  are  no  roads  through  the  northern  wilder- 
ness, though  a  communication  has  been  kept  up  that 
way  for  several  years,  and  herds  of  cattle  are  occa- 
sionally driven  into  Canada.  The  hardy  and  enter- 
prising traveller  may,  perhaps,  be  willing  to  encoun- 
ter the  inconvenience  of  lodging  in  the  open  air,  and 
such  fare  as  the  wilderness  affords;  but  few  will 


«r 


f   If.     ' « 

'• ,.' 'i  *•  1 


''■     fEr 


§ 


.376 


KOUTE    IN   MAINE. 


atten«pt  the  route  for  pleasure,  until  the  inlended  im- 
provements shall  have  been  made. 

For  the  distances  of  the  principal  places  on  the  route 
from  Portland  to  Quebec,  see  page  235, 236. 

Canals  phojected  in  Maine. 

From  Sehago  Pond  to  Portland.  This  would  re- 
quire an  excavation  of  only  6  miles  to  effect  a  commu- 
nication between  a  chain  of  ponds  or  lakes,  capable  of 
furnishinff  larp^e  supplies  of  timber,  and  many  products 
of  ag^riculture,  if  settlements  weio  once  encouraged. 

From  the  ^Androscoggin  at  Wayne's  Mills,  to  the 
Kennebec  at  Gardner.  There  is  a  dead  water  naviga- 
tion to  within  five  miles  of  the  former,  but  then  there  is 
an  ascent  of  260  feet  to  the  level  of  its  current. 


Route  from  Portland  to    Belfast,  Ca&tine, 

Bangor,  &c. 

Travelling  round  to  the  head  of  Casco  Bay,  you  pass 
through  North  Yarmouth  and  Freeport,  and  arrive  at 
Brunswick,  26  miles.  This  is  the  site  of  Bowdoin 
College,  the  principal  institution  of  the  state.  It  was 
burnt  a  few  years  ago  ;  but  has  been  rebuilt,  and  con- 
tains a  gooa  number  of  students.  It  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  an  elevated  level. 

There  is  a  fall  on  the  Androscoggin  river  at  this 
place ;  below  which  booms  are  extended  across  to 
keep  together  the  lumber  which  is  brought  down 
every  season  in  gfreat  quantities. 

The  whole  road  irom  Portland  to  Hath,  34  miles,  lies 
along  the  coast,  where  the  soil  is  rocky  and  poor. 


Bath 

is  a  town  of  considerable  trade,  situated  on  the  Ken- 
nebec, at  the  distance  of  16  miles  from  the  sea.    Here 


BOOTH    DAY. 


3:' 


die  several  public  building,  and  amon^  the  rest,  two 
banks.  If  the  arrangements  be  now  as  heretofore,  the 
steamboat  will  leave  Bath  every  day,  except  Sunday, 
at  noon,  and  arrives  at  Augusta  the  same  evening, 
touching  at  Richmond,  Gardmer,  and  Haliowell. 
Woolwich  is  opposite  Bath. 

WiSOASSET, 

14  miles  from  Bath.  This  is  one  of  the  principal  ports 
of  the  state,  and  has  an  excellent  harbour,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Sheepscot  River. 

Stage  Coaches  run  north  to  Bangor,  on  the  Penob- 
scot. They  pass  through  Newcastle,  Nobleborough, 
Waldoborougn,  Union,  Appleton,  Searsmont,  and  Bel- 
mont. There  are  two  branch  lines :  one  to  Thomas- 
town  through  Warren ;  and  another  to  Hamden, 
through  Camden,  Lincolnshire,  Nortbport,  Belfast, 
Swanville,  and  Frankfort. 

From  Wiscasset  to  Damascotta  is  rough  and  rocky ; 
but  the  ride  presents  many  interesting  views,  as  the 
landscape  is  continually  cnan^in^,  and  is  often  varied 
by  the  sight  of  Damascotta  River,  and  several  beauti- 
ful little  lakes  or  ponds. 

Damascotta  Bridge,  Here  is  a  considerable  village, 
at  the  distance  of  16  miles  from  the  seac<>ast. 

Booth  Bay 

lies  off  the  road  from  Wiscasset  to  Damascotta.  It 
has  a  commodious  harbour,  with  a  number  of  islands 
in  the  vicinity ;  and  the  neighbouring  high  grround 
affords  a  very  fine  and  extensive  view.  The  hill,  on 
the  eastern  side  of  the  bay,  was  surveyed  for  a  city 
in  the  early  part  of  the  last  century,  which  was  to 
have  borne  the  name  of  Townsend,  but  the  building 
of  it  was  never  begun.  The  harbour  has  been  con- 
sidered a  ^ood  site  for  a  naval  depot. 
Antiquities,    Two  or  three  mile?  off  the  road,*  be- 


W0^ 


i'tifii 


378 


KOUTE  IN*  MAINE. 


tween  Linniken's  Bay  and  Damascotta  River,  where 
was  formerly  an  Indian  carrying-place,  the  remains  ot 
cellar  walls  and  chimneys  are  found,  as  also  broken 
kettles,  wedges,  &c.  At  the  head  of  the  bay  are  the 
hulks  of  two  or  three  large  vessel^  sunk  in  the  water; 
and  on  the  shore,  the  ruins  of  an  old  grist-mill,  where 
the  present  one  stands.  On  the  islands  opposite  the 
town,  are  other  ruins,  the  history  of  which  is  unknown, 
as  well  as  that  of  those  already  mentioned.  The  only 
fact  which  seems  to  afford  any  clew  to  their  origin, 
is,  that  Sir  John  Pophvim  made  an  attempt  to  build  a. 
town  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec,  in  the  year  1607. 

Waldoborough,  IG  miles. 
Warren,  7  miles. 


Thomastown, 

Central  Village,  6  miles.  Here  are  quarries  of  mar- 
ble and  limestone,  from  the  latter  of  which  about 
100,000  barrels  of  lime  are  made  every  year  for  ex- 
portation. The  marble  is  also  wrought  in  consider- 
able quantities.  A  visit  to  the  workshops  may  be 
interesting,  as  the  operation  of  polishing  is  performed 
by  machinery  mov<^d  by  water.  There  is  a  cotton 
manufactory  on  Mill  River.  The  village  is  15  miles 
from  the  sea. 

The  State  Prison  stands  in  a  commanding  and  plea- 
sant situation.  It  has  50  solitary  cells,  built  of  granite, 
in  blocks  from  4  to  6  feet  in  length,  and  2  in  thick- 
ness. Each  cell  has  an  opening  at  the  top,  with  small 
holes  in  the  walls  for  the  admission  of  fresh  air,  which, 
during  the  winter  season,  is  warmed  before  it  is  ad- 
mitted. The  Warden's  house  is  also  built  of  granite, 
and  is  two  stories  high,  placed  in  the  middle,  with  a 
row  of  cells  on  each  side.  The  prison  yard  is  sur- 
rotinded  by  a  circular  wooden  paling,  and  encloses 
jiearly  three  acres,  in  which  i^  a  lime  quany.     Seve* 


LIBLC, 


.i7l> 


J  ai  workshops  on  the  ground  serve  the  purposes  of  the 
convicts,  who  are  employed  in  burning  lime  and  other 
manufactures. 

The  Knox  Estate,  About  half  a  mile  from  the  State 
Prison  is  the  ancient  residence  of  the  late  General 
Knox.  The  mansion  was  three  stories  high,  large,  and 
elegant,  particularly  for  a  country  so  iitile  cultivated 
and  inhabited  as  this  at  the  time  of  its  erection.  It  is 
now  in  a  state  of  great  decay  ;  but  some  ot  the  re- 
maining decorations  of  the  grounds  may  give  an  idea 
of  its  original  appearance.  '1  he  8p|>roarh  to  the 
house  is  through  a  cypress  grove ;  and  in  iront  of  it 
extends  a  handsome  griss-plat.  General  Knox  was 
one  of  Washington's  principal  officers,  ^nd  acted  a 
conspicuous  part  in  the  revolutionary  war  and  in  the 
government. 

From  Thomastown  to  Belfast,  (tJO  miles,)  the  road 
is  hard,  and  commands  many  views  of  Penobscot  Bay, 
with  a  few  islands  on  the  right,  and  a  partially  culti- 
vated country  on  the  lelt,  with  some  mountainous 
scenes.  Beltast  is  a  flourishing  port,  pleasantly  situ- 
ated on  the  side  of  a  hill.  The  road  hence  to  Castine, 
round  the  bay,  is  35  miles,  passing  through  Prospect, 
Buckport,  Orland,  and  Penobscot. 

Castine  was  taken  during  the  late  war  by  a  fleet, 
and  the  British  intrenchments  are  to  be  seen  on  the 
hill  above. 

Eastport  is  important  as  the  frontier  post  of  the 
United  States  on  the  seacoast  towards  the  British 
possessions.  It  is  on  the  south-eastern  part  of  Moose 
Island,  in  Passamaquoddy  Bay,  and  connected  with 
the  mainland  by  a  bridge.  The  spot  was  almost  un- 
inhabited 30  years  ago;  but  now  it  contains  three 
places  of  worship.  There  are  tbrlifications  and  a  few- 
troops.  A  line  of  steamboats  is  established  J^etween 
this  place  and  Boston,  toucliing  at  Portland,  &c. 

Lubec  is  situated  near  the^  entrance  of  the  Bay,  op- 
posite Campobello*  ♦  * 


380 


HOUTE   IN   MAINJE. 


Perry,  the  villag^e  of  the  Passamaquoddy  Indiana, 
lies  northward  from  Eastport. 

On  the  Schoodic  River  the  land  is  ligh,  and  the 
scenes  striking.  Robbinston  stands  at  its  mouth ;  and 
Calais  12  miles  above,  at  the  head  of  navigation.  The 
country  north  and  west  of  this  place  is  said  to  be  very 
valuable  for  grazing,  being  undulating,  with  a  good 
soil  and  climate,  and  at  present  well  wooded,  with 
conveniences  for  transpi>rtation  by  sea. 

The  road  from  Belfast  to  Bangor  lies  along  the 
course  of  the  Penobscot  River. 

Bangor 

is  a  very  flourishing  village,  newly  risen  into  impor- 
tance, in  consequence  of  having  taken  a  good  deal  oi 
the  interior  trade  from  Belfast.  It  occupies  a  com- 
manding position  for  this  object,  and  is  undoubtedly 
destined  to  experience  a  great  and  rapid  increase, 
proportioned  to  the  extension  of  settlements  in  the 
opner  country.  The  number  of  inhabitants  increased 
between  1820  and  1825,  from  1221  to  2002.  The 
scenery  here  begins  to  assume  much  of  that  mountain- 
ous character,  which  prevails  so  extensively  through 
3  large  part  of  the  interior.  A  very  conspicuous  and 
noble  eminence  is  observed  at  a  distance  in  the  north, 
called  Kiardin  Mountairiy  the  elevation  of  which  has 
never,  it  is  believed,  been  accurately  ascertained.  It 
is  considered  the  highest  land  in  the  state,  and  has 
been  compared  for  altitude  with  Mount  Washington  in 
New-Hampshire :  whether  with  justice  or  not,  a  scien- 
tific measurement  will  determine. 

In  the  year  1825  the  land  agents  visited  a  tract  of 
country  inhabited  by  about  two  thousand  persons,  who 
had  been  before  unknown  as  belonging  to  the  state, 
having  never  been  represented  in  the  legislature,  or 
mctuded  in  any  census.  They  are  partly  descend- 
ants of  refugees,  and  partly  half-pay  officers,  Irish  and 
Scotch.    The  vast  tract  of  wilderness  intervening  b«5 


m^ 


l>£6If8C0T   FALLS. 


381 


iween  them  and  the  I  jwer  country  had  prevented  in- 
tercourse. Their  co  jntry  is  rich  and  beautiful,  on  the 
St.  John's  River,  near  the  boundary  of  N.  Brunswick  ; 
and  many  of  them  desired  to  be  received  into  the 
jurisdiction  of  the  State  Government.  The  question 
nas  already  caused  much  excitement. 

The  opening  of  a  road  alon^  the  course  of  the  Pe- 
nobscot to  Q,uebec,  by  the  vay  o\  St.  Jolin's,  the  sur- 
vey of  which  has  been  authorized,  fur  which  the  state 
have  appropriated  $5000,  on  condition  that  Massa- 
chusetts will  do  as  much,  cannot  fail  to  accelerate  the 
settlement  ot  ttiis  country,  and  to  increase  the  value 
and  the  products  of  the  soil.  It  will  also  prove  here- 
after a  very  convenient  route  for  travellers  goinff  to 
and  from  Canada,  and  doubtless  form  a  part  oi  the 
grand  northern  tour,  which  will  then  be  complete. 

Steamboats  will  be  placed  on  the  route  trom  Bos- 
ton to  the  Kennebec. 

From  Bangor  we  begin  our  return  to  Portland, 
taking  the  route  through  the  finest  part  of  the  state  of 
Maine.  The  road  to  Augusta  and  Hallowell  on  the 
Kennebec,  lies  through  a  region  rapidly  improving^ 
under  the  management  of  an  active,  industrious,  and 
increasing  population.  The  value  of  the  soil  has 
greatly  advanced  within  a  short  time,  and  it  is  the 
grand  centre  of  emigration.  There  is  another  road 
to  Hallowell  through  Bath.  Coaches  travel  each  way 
three  times  a  week. 

Augusta  is  a  considerable  town  and  very  flourishing. 
It  is  situated  at  the  tails  of  the  Kennebec,  where  the 
water  on  the  descent  of  the  channel  is  sufficient  to  set 
in  motion  several  hundred  wheels,  and  will  probably 
be  hereat'ter  extensively  employed  for  manufacturing 
purposes. 

At  the  mouth  of  this  river,  at  Georgetown,  beryls 

have  been  found,  in  a  ridge  of  granite  country.    Some 

are  15  inches  long  and  6  thick.    They  are  associated 

with  schorl. 

Pesnpscot  Falls.    Near  Lewistown,  on  the  Andro- 

Kk 


t  ,■•. 


:■!•,  •:' 


nA 


385SJ 


uouTU  IN  maim:. 


scogein  River,  is  a  remarkable  cataract,  where  the  cur^ 
rentl)reaks  through  a  range  of  mountains,  and  pours 
over  a  broken  ledge  of  rocks.  The  scene  is  wild  and 
striking,  and  derives  an  additional  interest  t'rom  its 
connexion  with  the  history  of  a  tribe  of  Indians  long 
since  extinct. 

According  to  a  tradition  current  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, the  upper  parts  of  this  stream  were  formerly  the 
residence  of  the  Kockiiiego  Indians,  who  inhabited  a 
fine  and  fertile  plain  through  which  the  river  winds. 
The  situation  was  remote,  and  they  had  never  en- 
gaged in  any  hostilities  with  the  whites,  but  devoted 
themselves  to  hunting  and  ttshing.  The  ground  still 
contains  many  remains  of  their  weapons,  utensils,  &c. 
They  were,  however,  at  length  persuaded  to  engage 
in  a  nostile  incursion  against  brunswick,  at  that  time 
an  exposed  frontier  settlement ;  and  the  whole  tribe 
embarked  in  their  canoes  to  accomipiish  the  enter- 
prise. The  stream  flows  gently  on  lor  a  great  dis- 
tance, until  it  approaches  very  near  to  the  Tails  ;  and 
this  was  the  spot  appointed  for  the  night  encampment. 
Night  set  in  before  their  arrival ;  and  they  sent  two 
men  forward  to  make  fires  upon  the  banks  a  little 
above  the  cataract.  For  some  unknown  reason  the 
fires  were  kindled  below  the  falls ;  and  the  Indians, 
being  thus  deceived  concerning  their  situation,  did  not 
brin^  up  their  canoes  to  the  shore  in  season,  and  were 
carried  over  the  rocks,  and  the  tribe  all  destroyed  toge- 
ther. Their  bodies,  it  is  said,  were  carried  by  the 
stream  down  to  the  village  they  had  intended  to  at- 
tack. 

The  hills  near  the  falls  afford  many  evidences  of 
having  been  the  residence  of  Indians,  who  were  cut 
off  by  the  whites,  in  a  sudden  attack,  many  years 
ago.      , 


<ITY   OF   WASHINGTON. 


;i8:< 


WASHINGTON. 

Gadsby^s  HoteU  Pennsylvania  ./^rcnw€.— Numerous 
hotels  and  boaidingj-houses  also  offer  handsome  accom- 
modations, particularly  during  the  sessions  of  Con- 
gress. 

The  seat  of  Government  of  the  United  States  is 
situated  between  the  Potomac  River  and  its  eastern 
branch,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  above  their  junction. 
It  is  divided  into  th'-ee  distinct  parts,  which  are  built 
about  the  Navy  Yaru,  the  ('apitol  Hill,  and  the  Penn- 
sylvania Avenue.  The  Cipitol  is  an  immense  build- 
ing, with  two  wings,  surrounded  by  an  open  piece  of 
ground,  terraced  in  front,  and  occupying  an  eleva- 
tion, which  renders  it  a  conspicuous  object  for  several 
miles. 

The  original  plan  of  the  city  was  very  extensive : 
the  principal  streets  meeting  from  all  points  of  the 
compass  at  the  Capitol,  an  l  bearing  the  names  of  the 
older  states  of  the  union.  Some  ot  the  minor  streets 
are  known  by  the  names  of  the  letters  of  the  alpha- 
bet;  and  tracts  of  ground  were  reserved  for  public 
squares.  As  Washington,  however,  is  chieny  de- 
pendent on  the  government  for  its  support,  the  original 
scheme  has  been  but  faintly  realize  J,  and  many  of  the 
streets  have  not  even  been  opened. 

During  the  sessions  of  Congress,  the  place  is  thronged 
with  strangers  from  all  parts  of  the  country  ;  and  the 
sessions  ot  the  Senate  and  Representatives,  the  pro- 
ceedings of  the  Supreme  Court,  the  levees  at  the 
President's  House,  the  parties  at  the  foreign  ministers', 
&c.  afford  ample  opportunities  for  amusements  of  va- 
rious kinds.  At  other  seasons,  however,  there  is  little 
to  interest  the  stranger.except.the  public  buildings  and 
the  Navy  Yard. 


'  1. 1  "^ 


i  it  I 


m4 


CITY   OF   WASHINGTOK. 


The  Capitol 

presents,  in  the  interior,  specimens  of  various  styles  of 
architecture.  The  whole  front  is  362  feet  4  inches 
in  length ;  and  the  wings  are  121  feet  6  inches  deep. 
The  eastern  prfjjection  is  65  feet ;  the  western  88. 
The  building  covers  an  acre  and  a  half  and  1830  feet. 
The  wings,  to  the  top  o(  the  balustrade,  are  70  feet 
high,  the  centre  dome  95. 

Representatives' Room,  greatest  length,       ,    95  ft. 
Representatives'  Room,  greatest  height,       .    60 
Senate  Chamber,  greatest  length,   ....    74 
Senate  Chamber,  greatest  height,   ....    42 
Great  Central  Rotunda,  96  feet  in  diameter,  and  96 

hi^h. 
The  r^lorth  Wing  was  commenced  in  1792, 

and  finished  in  1800,  cost $480,^2 

South  Wing  was  commenced  in  1803,  and 

finished  in  1808,  cost 308,808 

Centre  Building,  conimenced  in  1819,  and 

finished  in  1827,  cost 957,647 


^1,746,717 


On  the  tympanum  is  a  statue  of  America,  9  feet  in 
length,  attended  by  Justice,  and  visited  by  Hope. 

On  entering  the  south  wing,  several  columns  are 
Been,  where  carvirjgs  of  Indian-corn  stalks  ar*^  substi- 
tuted for  flutings  and  filletine:s  ;  while  the  capitals  are 
made  of  the  ears  of  corn  half"  stripped,  and  disposed 
so  as  in  some  degree  to  resemble  the  Corinthian  or 
Composite  order. 

The  Representatives''  Chamber  is  a  fine  >emicircular 
apartment,  with  columns  of  a  daili  bluish  fjiliceous 
pudding  stone,  hard  and  highly  polished.  It  is  lighted 
from  above.  The  gallery  is  open  during  the  debates, 
as  well  as  the  Senate  Chamber,  which  is  a  much  smaller 
apartment. 


fllE    PKESIDENT  d    HOUSE. 


38.*. 


The  Library  of  Confess  is  in  another  part  of  the 
building;  and  the  Great  Hall  contains  tne  four  na- 
tional f)ictures,  paintnd  for  the  pfovernment  by  Col. 
Trumbull :  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  tne  Sur- 
renders at  Saratoga  and  Yorktown,  and  Washington 
resigning  his  C  mmission  ;  each  12  feet  by  18.  Here 
are  also  four  relievos  in  marble,  representing  scenes 
connected  with  the  history  of  different  parts  of  the  U. 
States :  Pocahontas  rescuing^  Capt.  Smith  from  death, 
in  1606,  [by  Capellano,]  the  Landing  of  the  New- 
E/igland  Pilgrims  at  PlyiU'  u?h,  in  1620,  ;by  Causici,] 
Wm.  Penn's  Treaty  with  the  Indians,  near  Philadel- 
phia, in  1682,  [by  Gevelot,]  and  .  battle  between 
Boon  and  two  Indians,  in  1773,  [b}  Causici.] 

There  can  hardly  be  fount  in  the  world  a  room 
better  constructed  tor  tin  exhibition  of  pictures  than 
this  noble,  grand  Rotunda,  the  material  of  which  is 
white  marble,  and  the  light  admitted  from  the  summit 
of  the  dome,  which  is  96  feet  in  height. 

The  population  of  Washington  City  is  estimated  at 
19,319.  There  were  erected  148  dwellings  in  1829. 
The  total  number  of  dwellings  is  3050. 

A  fine  view  is  enjoyed  from  the  top  of  the  Capitol. 
You  look  along  the  Pennsylvania  Avenue  westward  to 
the  President's  House,  with  Georgetown  and  the  Po- 
tomac beyond ;  the  General  Post  Office,  &  c.  on  the 
right ;  the  Navy  Yard  towards  the  south-east ;  Green 
leaf's  Point  nearly  south  ;  and  south-west  the  bridge 
over  the  Potomac,  with  the  road  to  \lexandria  and 
Mount  Vernon.  The  canal  begins  south  of  the  Presi- 
dent's House, and  ternnnates  at  the  Eist  Branch. 

The  Presidents  Hi/use  is  a  large  building  of  white 
marble,  \^ith  Grecian  fronts,  about  a  mile  west  of  the 
Capitol,  and  near  the  public  offices.  It  is  surrounded 
by  a  wall,  but  without  any  other  defence.  The  en- 
trance hall  leads  into  the  drawing-room,  w^here  the 
company  are  received  at   the   levees.     Two  other 

apartments   are   thrown   open  on   those   occasions: 

Kk2 


>^'*i 


j3i 


386 


GEORGKTOWN. 


all  handsomely  furnished,  and  freely  accessible,  even 
to  strangers. 

The  tatent  Office  is  in  the  same  building  with  the 
General  Post  Office,  and  well  worthy  of  a  visit,  on  ac- 
count of  the  numerous  curious  models  which  it  con- 
tains, relating  to  all  branches  of  the  arts.  447  patents 
were  taken  out  in  1829. 

The  Treasury,  Navy,  War,  and  Land  Offices,  are  all 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  President's  House ;  as  are  the 
residences  of  the  Foreign  Ministers.  The  members 
of  Congress,  as  well  as  the  numerous  strangers  who 
resort  hither  during  the  sessions,  find  lodgings  in  the 
hotels  and  boarding-houses  in  different  parts  of  the 
city,  or  in  Georjretown. 

The  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal  was  commenced  in 
1828,  and  is  proceeding  along  the  Potomac  River, 
where  it  will  pass  arnong  some  very  tine  scenery,  as 
well  as  through  some  rich  tracts  of  country. 

Steamboats,  By  steamboats  there  is  a  constant  and 
convenient  communication  between  Washington,  Alex- 
andria, Mount  Vernon,  Norfolk  (for  $8),  and  Rich- 
mond (for  $12). 

GEORGETOWN 

is  a  considerable  place,  which,  by  its  proximity  to 
Washington,  seems  almost  a  part  of  that  city.  The 
country  aT>  lund  it  is  variegated,  and  the  situation  of  the 
Catholic  Colle^Cf  a  little  way  west,  is  picturesque^ 
Still  further  m  the  same  direction,  there  is  a  very 

S feasant  ride  along  the  bank  of  the  Potomac,  where 
[ason's  Island  is  at  first  seen,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  and  afterward  the  Nunnery  upon  the  elevated 
banks.  On  the  north  side  of  the  road  is  a  Cannon 
Foundry.  It  is  -proposed  to  form  iiere  a  basin  for  the 
canal,  which  it  is  intended  to  extend  to  Alexandria. 


MOUNT   VER?<0:S 


;i87 


ALEXANDRIA. 

This  is  a  lai^e  city  and  port,  six  miles  from  Wash- 
ington, and  contains  some  6ne  buildinp^s,  both  public 
and  private.  The  road  which  leads  to  it  is  good,  in 
the  pleasant  season,  although  the  country  is  little  in- 
habited, and  the  soil  is  impoverished  by  the  cultiva- 
tion of  tobacco.  This  city  is  included  within  the 
boundaiy  of  the  District  of  Columbia,  and  is  at  so 
short  a  distance  from  Washington  as  lo  be  a  favourite 
resort,  during  the  sessions  of  Congress.  The  river 
is  here  a  mUe  wide,  with  a  channel  1000  yards  in 
breadth,  where  the  water  is  30  feet  deep.  It  is  in- 
tended to  have  a  basin  at  the  northern  part  of  this 
town,  at  the  end  of  the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal. 

MOUNT  VERNON, 

the  estate  of  the  Washington  family,  is  nine  miles  south 
from  Alexandria,  and  is  remarkable  as  containing  tlie 
residence  and  the  tomb  of  Gen.  Washington.  The 
road  is  somewhat  intricate,  and  has  but  few  inhabit- 
ants, so  that  the  stranger,  unless  he  goes  in  a  steam- 
boat, will  need  to  make  careful  inquiries.  The  en- 
trance of  the  grounds  is  distinguished  by  a  large  gate, 
with  the  lodge  and  dwelling  of  the  porter.  A  wind- 
ing path  conducts  to  the  mansion,  which  is  seen  but 
two  or  three  times  from  a  distance.  The  rear  of  the 
house  is  first  seen,  as  it  stands  on  an  eminence,  looking 
down  upon  the  Potomac.  The  buildings  which  pro- 
ject from  each  end,  are  the  offices  and  habitations  of 
the  negroes.  The  house  was  lately  the  residence 
of  Bushrod  Washington,  a  judge  of  the  supreme  court 
of  the  U.  States,  and  nephew  of  Gen.  Washington. 

The  key  of  the  Bastile  of  Paris  is  hung  up  in  the 
hall ;  and  a  miniature  portrait  of  Washington,  from  an 
earthen  pitcher,  is  preserved,  which  is  considered  by 
*he  family  the  best  likeness  of  him  ever  made.    *^ 


'*    .\ 


:iU 


MOUNT   VEBISO>. 


beautiful  lawn,  partly  shaded  by  trees,  extends  trom 
the  front  of  the  mansion  to  the  verge  of  the  precipice, 
which  overhangs  the  Potomac,  and  affords  a  delightful 
view  upon  the  river,  ^tnd  a  tract  of  hilly  country  above 
and  below. 

This  is  the  place  to  which  Washington  retired  after 
he  had  accomplished  the  independence  of  his  country, 
and  again  when  he  had  presided  at  the  consolidation 
of  the  government ;  voluntarily  resigning  the  stations 
lie  had  consented  to  accept,  rin  (he  power  he  had 
exercised  only  for  the  good  of  his  country.  To  an 
American,  this  place  is  interesting,  in  a  degree  uhich 
no  language  can  either  heighten  or  describe.  Who- 
ever appreciates  the  alue  of  private  and  social  vir- 
tue, will  rejoice  to  tind  it  associated  with  the  traits  of 
a  personage  so  distinguished  and  influential  ;  the  con- 
sistent politician  will  rejoice  to  reflect  that  his  princi- 
ples of  natural  freedom  were  not  restricted  to  any  por- 
tion of  the  world,  or  any  part  of  the  human  race ;  while 
any  one,  who  can  duly  estimate  the  extent  of  the  bless- 
ings he  has  conferred  on  his  country,  and  the  influence 
01  his  actions  on  the  happiness  of  the  world,  uill  wish 
that  his  history  may  ever  be  cherished,  as  a  model  of 
sincere  and  disinterested  patriotism. 

WashingtorCs  Tomb  will  be  found  under  the  shade  of  a 
little  grove  ofcedars  a  short  distan<  e,  southward,  from  the 
house,  and  near  the  brow  of  the  precipifcus  shore.  It  is 
small,  unadorned,  and  neglected.  The  grea  t  man,  w  ho 
had  rendered  to  his  country  the  most  important  military 
j\nd  civil  services  she  ever  received,  left  his  mortal 
remains  to  be  deposited  in  this  humble  cemetery; 
and  that  country  has  never  yet  expressed  its  gratitude 
by  erecting  a  monument  to  his  memory,  though  to  her 
he  devoted  his  life,  and  to  her  he  has  bequeathed  a 
character,  on  which  no  attempt  has  ever  yet  been 
made  to  discover  a  shfidow  or  lo  fix  a  stain.  It  has 
been  recently  proposed  to  remove  these  venerated  re- 
mains to  the  Capitol  at  Washington, 


From 

brings  tli 

Otter;— t 

and  the  c 

he  can  vi 

Salt   Sulj 

Springs,  ? 

for  its  bat 

Rock  dis 

the  Blowi 

reaches  V 

works  of  s 

the  Vallej 

brated  jun 

country,  tl 

him,  is  noj 

turesque,  I 

are  unconi 


Barnum 
Washingtc 
is  one  of 
houses  in 
Market-str 
former  ope 
for  familiei 
The  Indi 
Baltimor 
States,  and 
projects  ha 


CITY    OF   BALTI3I0Ki:.  .^8J* 


[The  Virginia  Springs. 

These  springes  are  the  resort  of  numerous  travellers 
«very  year,  and  present  the  combined  attractions  of 
healthiulncss,  fine  scenery,  company,  &c. 

From  Lynchburgh,  in  Virt^inia,  the  first  day's  ride 
brin&;s  the  traveller  in  sig^bt  of  the  noble  reaks  of 
Otter;— the  next  day  brings  him  to  the  Natural  Bridge, 
and  the  canal  through  the  Bkie  Ridge — in  a  few  days 
he  can  visit  the  Sweet  Springs,  the  White  Sulphur, 
Salt  Sulphur  {hr  consumptive  patients),  the  Hot 
Springs,  and  the  Warm  Springs  (the  latter  celebrated 
for  its  bath,  and  the  prospect  which  the  vVarm  Spring 
Rock  displays).  On  his  way  to  Staunton,  he  passes 
the  Blowing  cave — on  the  first  day  from  Staunton,  he 
reaches  Weyer's  cave,  one  of  the  most  astonishing 
works  of  subterranean  Nature  in  the  world — going  up 
the  Valley,  he  will  visit  at  Harper's  Ferry  tne  cele- 
brated j  unction  of  the  Shenandoah  and  Potomac.  The 
country,  through  which  som^  of  this  road  conducts 
him,  is  not  only  remarkable  for  the  beauty  of  the  pic- 
turesque, but  the  fertility  of  its  soil.  The  grass  lands 
are  uncommonly  beautiiul.] 

BALTIMORE. 

Barnum's  Cily  Hotel,  an  elegant  building  near  the 
Washington  Monument,  was  completed  in  1827.  [t 
is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  commodious  public 
houses  in  the  country.  It  extends  about  100  feet  on 
Market-street,  and  223  feet  on  Hanover-street.  On  the 
former  opens  the  entrance  to  the  private  apartments, 
for  families,  &:c. 

The  Indian  Queen  Hotel — and  others. 

Baltimore  is  the  third  city,  for  size,  in  the  United 
States,  and  carries  on  an  extensive  commerce.  Various 
projects  have  been  made  for  improving  the  communi- 


w 


k,  "* 


r'M 


590 


CITY    OF  BALTIMORE. 


cation  with  the  interior,  which  is  now  limited.  The 
course  of  the  Susquehannah  has  been  surveyed,  with 
the  intention  of  making  it  more  useful  in  the  trans- 
portation of  merchandise*  The  current  is  now  so 
swift  and  broken  in  many  places,  as  to  render  the  pas- 
sage often  difficult  and  hazardous  ;  and  it  is  hoped  that 
great  improvements  may  hereafter  be  effected  by  locks 
and  canals.  If  this  were  once  performed,  and  a  rail- 
road made  from  the  river  to  Baltimore,  the  city  would 
doubtless  derive  great  advantage  from  the  internal 
trade. 

The  harbour  of  Baltimore,  in  the  Patapsco  River, 
has  a  narrow  entrance,  and  is  well  protected  by  high 
ground.  On  the  side  opposite  the  city  is  an  abrupt 
elevation  of  considerable  size,  where  is  a  fort,  and 
whence  a  commanding  view  is  enjoyed.  Baltimore  is 
the  greatest  flour-market  in  the  U.  States. 

FeWs  Point  is  a  part  of  the  city,  about  a. mile  below, 
where  most  of  the  stores  and  shipping  are  found. 
Many  of  the  streets  of  Baltimore  are  broad,  cross  at 
right  angles,  and  are  ornamented  with  fine  buildings 
both  public  and  private. 

The  Exchange  is  a  very  spacious  hr\ck  building, 
erected  within  a  few  years.  The  Commercial  Reading 
Rooms  are  the  resort  of  merchants.  The  Athenaeum 
is  a  spacious  structure. 

The  Washington  Monument.  This  is  a  large  column 
of  marble,  placed  in  a  commanding  position,  in 
Howard's  Park,  at  the  head  of  Charles-street,  rising  to 
the  height  of  163  feet.  It  is  H  feet  in  diameter  at 
!he  top  and  20  below,  with  a  base  23  feet  in  height, 
and  50  square.  It  is  one  of  the  finest  monuments  in 
the  United  States,  and  the  only  one  worthy  the  me- 
mory of  the  ffceat  man  to  whom  it  is  erected.  The 
statue  of  Washington  was  raised  and  placed  upon  the 
top  in  November  1829.  It  is  15  feet  high ;  so  that  the 
height  of  the  top  of  the  statue  from  the  ground  is  176 
leet ;  and  from  the  tide  level  27«.  The  situation  is 
vp.ry  advantageous :  being  at  the  intersection  of  four 


streets,  a 
directior 
360  feet, 
shrubbei 
vices  ar 
added  t( 
country. 
Th.  E 
mory  of 

Septemb 

At  the 

tower,  2; 

object  fnj 

The  Pi 

western  j 

square,  la 

is  ornamc 

stone,  and 

serve  ordc 

usually  mi 

right  m  de 

.  The  eri 

rides;  anc 

easy,  by 

agreeable 

steamboat 

a  short  dis 

to  Norfolk, 

and  those 

tant)  will  J 

The  Mo 

beautifully 

tege  is  a  Ci 

Battle 
Long  Poin 
British  vess 
arrived  at 
landed  bet. 
the  distanci 


^ 


BATILE   OF   BALTIMUUK. 


6d\ 


btreets,  and  so  tlevated  as  to  be  conspicuous  from  eveiy 
direction.  The  area  around  it,  tor  a  circumference  of 
350  feet,  is  to  be  raiied  in  with  iron,  and  planted  with 
shrubbery.  The  slates  are  to  be  represented  by  de- 
vices around  the  base ;  and  inscriptions  are  to  be 
added  to  record  the  deeds  of  the  Father  of  our 
country. 

Tht^  Battle  Monument  was  recently  erected  in  me- 
mory of  tliose  who  fell  in  the  defence  of  the  city  in 
September,  1814. 

At  the  corner  of  Front  and  Pitt  streets  is  a  shot 
tower,  234  feet  in  height,  which  is  a  conspicuous 
object  from  a  distance. 

The  Public  Fountain  is  a  fine  spring  of  water  in  the 
western  part  of  the  city,  surrounded  by  a  public 
square,  laid  out  in  walks  and  shaded  with  trees.  It 
is  ornamented  with  a  neat  little  building  of  hewn 
stone,  and  furnished  with  handsome  steps.  To  pre- 
serve order  at  this  place  in  warm  weather,  when  it  is 
usually  much  resorted  to,  it  is  the  custom  to  take  the 
right  m  descending  and  retiring. 

The  environs  of  Baltimore  afford  some  pleasant 
rides ;  and  the  communication  with  different  places  is 
easy,  by  various  modes  of  conv.  yance.  The  most 
agreeable  way  of  travelling  to  Philadelphia  is  by  the 
steamboat  lines,  which  go  and  arrive  daily,  with  but 
a  short  distance  of  land  carriage.  Steamboats  also  go 
to  Norfolk,  in  Virginia,  but  the  passage  is  uninteresting ; 
and  those  who  wish  to  see  Washington  (30  miles  dis- 
tant) will  go  by  land. 

The  Mount  Hope  Institution  is  a  school  for  youth, 
beautifully  situated  in  the  environs.  St.  Mary's  Col- 
lege  is  a  Catholic  institution. 

Battle  of  Baltimore, — This  battle  took  place  at 
Long  Point  in  September,  1814.  Nearly  40  sail  of 
British  vessels,  comprising  several  ships  of  the  line, 
arrived  at  the  moutn  of  the  Patapsco,  and  on  the  12th 
landed  between  7000  and  8000  men  on  Long  Point,  at 
the  distance  of  14  miles  from  the  citv.    Sixteen  bomb 


ltd 

ii' 

It  ill 


CITY  OF   BALTIMOEE. 


vessels  in  the  mean  time  went  up  the  river,  and  an 
chored  about  2i  miles  from  Fort  M'Henry.  Gen. 
Smith  had  Jrent  Gen.  Strieker  with  a  part  of  his  bri- 
gade, on  the  road  to  North  Point ;  ancf  Maj.  Randal, 
with  some  Baltimore  and  Pennsylvania  volunteers, 
went  to  Bear  Creek,  to  co-operate  with  him.  Gen. 
Strieker  took  position  at  the  two  roads  leading  to 
North  Point,  his  ri^ht  on  Bear  Creek  and  his  left  on  a 
marsh.  An  advance  met  the  enemy,  and  after  a  skir- 
mish returned,  when  'hey  advanced  and  joined  in  a 
general  battle.  '"t^^r  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes,  the 
5l3t  regt.  gave  v  y,  i,  d  Gen.  Strieker  retired  to  his 
reserve,  whither  lue  en^  ^  y  did  not  lollow,  and  then 
to  the  left  of  Gen.  Smith,  and  took  post  half  a  mile  in 
advance  of  his  intrenchments.  He  lost  about  150 
killed  and  wounded,  in  this  action,  in  which  the  citi- 
zens of  Baltimore  distinguished  themselves.  The 
British  loss  was  computed  at  600  or  700 ;  and  among 
them  their  commander.  Gen.  Ross. 

The  bomb  vessels  which  attacked  Fort  M*Henry 
were  unsuccessful,  being  met  with  a  n;inly  resistance  ; 
and  the  troops  re-embarked  and  relinquished  the  enter- 
prise. 

Fort  Erie  is  dismantled  and  partly  blown  up,  in  the 
state  in  which  it  was  left  by  our  troops  in  1814. 

The  Baltimore  A^D  Ohio  Railroad. 

One  of  the  principal  objects  that  will  attract  the 
attention  of  the  traveller  who  spends  a  little  time  in 
Baltimore,  is  the  great  railroad,  commenced  under 
such  flattering  prospects,  to  connect  tiie  city  with  the 
Ohio  river.  Cars  with  sails  sometimes  go  at  the  rate 
of  25  miles  an  hour,  and  can  move  within  four  points  of 
the  wind.  About  twelve  miles  of  it  were  completed 
in  1829;  and  various  cars  are  in  operation  upon  i(, 
some  moved  by  steam,  and  some  by  wind.  The  r6ute 
frotn  Baltimore  to  the  Potomae,  60  miles,  will  have 
but  a  single  summit,  requiring  stationaiy  power ;  and 


4 


even  th 

mines  in 

distance 

rope,    'i 

early  in 

few  mile 

The   ( 

Falls,  ab( 

mason  n 

United  I 

312  feet 

inches  wi 

arch  of  8 

in  thickn 

of  the  ai 

stones  are 

of  stone  h 

^*^d  the 

granite. 

The  Ja 

of  entirely 

0'^  the  Coi 

TbeDi 

land,  is  a 

g:reatest  di 

the  ridge, 

were  foum 

stump  of  'c 

excavation 

The  Gn 

from  Baiti 

elevation  fi 

the  top  th 

double  set 

Gadsbyh 

waters  of  tl 

composed 

ordinary  w 

.   The  Pat 


IJALTIHOIIE    A?kD   ttlHO   KAILROAD. 


tS\)'J 


[)d  an 

Gen. 
lis  bri- 
landal, 
inteers, 

Gen. 
Jing  to 
id  on  a 
a  skir- 
ed  In  a 
ites,  the 
J  to  his     * 
nd  then 
mile  in 
out  150 
the  citi- 
s.    The 
i  among 

yi^Henry 

distance ; 
le  enter- 

p,  in  the 
14. 

AD. 

tract  the 

;  time  in 

id  under 

with  the 

the  rate 

points  ot 

)nipleted 

upon  it, 

he  route 

ill  have 

er;  and 


even  the  route  up  the  Potomac  valley,  to  the  coal 
mines  in  Alleghany  county,  without  another — in  aljL  a 
distance  of  180  miles — a  thing  unprecedented  in  Eu- 
rope. The  work  will  be  executed  to  Ellicott's  mills 
early  in  1830.  The  stranger  will  find  a  passage  of  a 
few  miles  very  novel  and  interesting. 

The  Carrollton  Viaduct,  which  crosses  Gwynn's 
Falls,  about  a  mile  from  the  city,  is  a  fine  specimen  of 
mason  work,  and  is  said  to  be  unequalled  in  the 
United  States,  for  strength,  size,  and  beauty.  It  is 
312  feet  long,  63  feet  9  inches  high,  and  26  feet  6 
inches  wide  on  the  travelled  part.  The  great  granite 
arch  of  80  feet  span,  springs  from  abutments  20  feet 
in  thickness,  and  14  feet  above  the  water.  The  key 
of  the  arch  is  47  feet  above  the  water.  The  arcn 
stones  are  all  of  dressed  granite  ;  the  number  of  layers 
of  stone  is  87,  many  of  the  stones  weighing  two  tons ; 
^i^d  the  parapets  are  coped  with  large  slabs  of 
granite. 

The  Jackson  Bridge  is  a  single  arch,  109  feet  long, 
(.  f  entirely  novel  structure,  the  mvention  of  Col.  Long, 
o'  the  Company's  board  of  engineers. 

The  Deep  Cut  through  a  high  and  broad  ridge  of 
land,  is  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  length,  its 
greatest  depth  70  feet,  and  its  width,  at  the  summit  of 
the  ridge,  184  feet.  Quantities  of  carbonized  wood 
were  found  60  feet  below  the  natural  surface,  and  the 
stump  of  a  tree  with  its  roots  at  40  feet.  The  entire 
excavation  is  263,848  cubic  yards. 

The  Great  Embankment  at  Gadsby^s  Run  five  miles 
from  Baltimore,  is  nearly  a  mile  in  fenglh,  its  greatest 
elevation  56  feet,  and  its  greatest  width  191  feet.  At 
the  top  the  usual  width  of  26  feet  is  preserved  for  a 
double  set  of  rails. 

Gadsby^s  Run  Viaduct  affords  a  passage   to   the 
waters  of  the  run  through  the  embankment.    The  arch, 
composed  of  dressed  granite  blocks,  is  of  the  extra- 
ordinary width  of  120  feet  from  opening  to  opening. 
,  The  Patterson  Viaduct  is  an  immense  structure  of 

LI 


I'Mi 


3^4 


CITY   OF   BALTIMOUE. 


s^ranite,  by  which  the  road  is  carried  to  the  oppo.siie 
bank  of  the  Petapsco.  It  is  built  of  granite  blocks, 
from  one  to  seven  tons  in  weight,  and  its  entire  length 
is  375  feet.  It  has  four  beautiful  arches,  the  two  centre 
ones  each  a  span  of  55  feet,  with  extensive  wings  and 
water-walls,  abutments,  &c.  The  height  from  the 
water  to  the  crown  of  the  arches  is  30  feet.  The 
corner  stone  of  this  structure  was  laid  on  the  6tb  of 
May  last,  and  on  the  4th  of  December  it  was  crossed 
on  horseback  by  Wm.  Patterson,  Esq.  for  whom  the 
honour  had  been  reserved,  and  whose  name  it  bears. 
It  embraces  nearly  10,000  perches  of  masonry. 

Besides  these  are  the  embankment  at  Stillhouse  Run, 
two  granite  viaducts,  the  rock  side  cutting  at  Buzzard's 
Rock,  &c.  &c. 

This  is  truly  a  great  work ;  worthy  of  the  age,  and 
highly  creditable  to"  the  enlerprise  and  public  spirit  of 
the  company;  and  from  which  th«  citizens  of  Balti- 
more may  very  reasonably  expect  extensive  and  du- 
rable advantages. 

In  passing  from  the  valley  of  Gwynn's  falls  to  the 
Patapsco,  tne  excavations  and  emoankments  have 
unavoidably  been  very  great ;  the  deepest  cut  is  79 
feet,  and  the  highest  embankment  is  57  feet :  the 
quantity  of  excavation  between  the  city  of  Baltimore 
and  the  valley  of  the  Patapsco,  in  a  distance  of  seven 
miles,  is  655,568  cubic  yards.  The  embankments 
alon^  the  same  distance  are  628,629  cubic  yards, 
making  together  1,284,187  cubic  yards.  The  masonry 
on  the  section  within  the  city,  and  on  the  first  and 
second  divisions  of  the  road,  is  upwards  of  66,000 
perches  of  stone  work,  and  is  executed  in  a  very 
superior  style  of  workmanship. 

Along  the  valley  of  the  Patapsco  it  has,  in  many 
places,  been  found  necessary  to  conduct  the  road 
through  extensive  beds  of  hard  granite  or  limestone, 
an^  at  the  Buzzard  Rock  the  road  has  been  carried 
through  a  solid  mass  of  rock  rising  58  feet  above  its 
Furface.  . 


•kiALTinuKi:  A!\D  YOllK  HAVEN  UAILBOAU.     3\io 


There  were  four  routes  originally  proposed  from 
Baltimore  to  the  valley  of  the  Potomac.  The  aggre- 
gate height  of  the  adopted  one  is  only  885  feet — much 
smaller  than  the  others.  The  roaa  to  the  valley  of 
the  Potomac,  it  is  expected,  will  be  completed  by  the 
end  of  1830.  It  will  meet  it  at  the  Point  of  Rocks, 
A  portion  of  50  miles  may  after  that  period  be  com- 
pleted every  year.  The  mcrease  of  business  in  Balti- 
more will  therefore  be  rapid,  and  a  large  addition  will 
be  made  every  year  to  the  attractions  of  travellers  in 
that  direction. 

The  latest  improvements  have  been  obtained  from 
England,  in  relation  to  the  mode,  materials,  &c.,  for 
constructing  railroads,  by  Mr.  Jonathan  Knight,  Civil 
Engineer,  and  Captain  Wm.  Gibbs  M*Neill  of  the  U. 
S.  Topographical  Engineers,  with  Lieut.  George  W. 
Whistler  of  the  United  States'  army,  who  were  sent 
thither  in  November,  1288,  and  minutely  examined 
every  railroad  of  note  or  consequence  in  the  United 
Kingdom. 

In  the  first  part^  the  inclination  of  the  road  will  be 
at  the  rate  of  15,086  feet  per  mile,  or  9.8  minutes  of  a 
degree,  ascending  from  Baltimore  towards  Cumberland. 
Between  Cumberland  and  the  Ohio  river,  the  probable 
transportation  to  that  stream  is  estimated  at  one-half 
that  of  the  transportation  from  it  eastward ;  and  the 
general  inclination  of  the  road  at  8  feet  and  12  hun- 
dredths per  mile,  or  5.29  minutes  of  a  degree,  ascend- 
ing towards  the  Ohid. 

A  Railroad  from  Baltimore  to  York  Haven,  on  the 
Susquehannah,  has  been  commenced  by  the  Legislature 
of  Maryland.  The  distance  is  60  miles ;  and  the  esti 
mate  for  the  railway  is  $7,500  per  mile.  The  addi- 
tional expenses  for  making  the  bed,  the  sinuosities,  &c. 
would  be  considerable :  but  it  is  believed  that 
§800,000  would  be  sufficient  for  the  whole  work. 

The  greatest  elevation  between  Baltimore  and 
Conewago  is  35  miles  from  the  Ibrroer ;  and  being  be- 
tween 900  and  1000  feet  above  tide  water,  gives  an 


til 


:i06 


WILMINOTON. 


average  rise  ot'  about  27  feet  to  a  mile  ;  and  tlie  de. 
scent  thence  to  Conewago  corn^sponds.     It  has  been 
proposed  to  place  12  locomotive  ^tcam  engines  along 
this  route  5  miles  apart. 

The  Susquehannah,  above  York  Haven,  has  a  fall 
of  about  10  feet  in  a  mile,  and  the  banks  are  very  favour- 
able to  a  railway.  The  Philadelphia  and  Susquehan- 
nah Railroad  will  soon  be  connected  with  this.  A 
railway  to  the  Susquehannah  which  could  transport  to 
^Paltimore  for  three  cents  a  ton  per  mile,  it  is  said, 
would  take  all  the  business  of  the  river. 
,  It  was  supposed  that  nearly  5^  millions  worth  of 
property  went  down  this  river  in  1826,  in  spite  of  the 
difficulties  and  dangers  of  the  navigation.  It  is  not 
to  be  wondered  at  tnat  the  inhabitants  of  Philadelphia 
and  Baltimore  should  feel  great  solicitude  to  secure 
the  trade.  The  sloop  canal  connecting  this  river  with 
the  Delaware  is  intended  for  the  benefit  of  the  former, 
as  is  the  Union  canal  at  Middletown,  leading  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Pennsylvania  canal  to  the  ochuylkill 
river.  The  Susquehannah  has  been  greatly  improved 
by  various  works  in  different  parts  of  its  course,  (which 
are  nearly  completed,)  and  will  permit  the  passage 
of  boats  of  fifty  or  sixty  tons  to  Columbia.  The  state 
of  Delaware  has  rendered  the  navigation  below 
Columbia  comparatively  convenient,  so  that  wheat  has 
been  for  six  or  seven  years,  on  an  average,  within  12^ 
or  15  cents  a  bushel  of  the  price  in  Baltimore.  For- 
merly it  was  60  cents.  In  1827,  ^100,000  was  sup- 
posed sufficient  to  make  a  safe  navigation  from  the 
Swatara  to  Port  Deposit.  In  1828,  however,  the  Le- 
gislature of  Pennsylvania  forbade  further  improvements 
m  that  state.  In  1827, 200,000  busliels  of  wheat  went 
to  Baltimore  by  this  route. 

The  bridge  over  the  Gunpowder  Creek,  on  the 
road,  is  remarkable  as  a  fine  structure,  as  the  steep 
and  elevated  banks  of  that  dark  stream  are  for  their 
wild  and  romantic  appearance.  The  span  of  the  arch 
j^  125  feet. 

Wilmington*  De].      The  Water  Works  are  supplied 


UOUTK   TO   OllIU. 


39" 


1  been 
along 

a  fall 
favour- 
uehan- 
lis.  A 
port  to 
s  said, 

orth  of 

of  the 

is  not 

ielphia 

secure 

er  with 

former, 

rom  the 

huylkill 

iproved 

(which 

Eassage 
e  state 
below 
leat  has 
bin  12i 
For- 
as  sup- 
om  the 
he  Le- 
i^ements 
at  went 

on  the 

;  steep 

or  tbeii" 

he  arch 

upplie*' 


tiom  tiic  Brandy  wine,  by  a  steam  engine  and  double 
forcing:  pump,  on  the  principle  of  that  at  Fairniount, 
Philadelphia.  The  water-wheel  is  an  overshot,  14 
feet  6  inches  in  diameter ;  and  the  water  that  turns  it 
is  pumped  up.  The  ascent  from  the  river  to  the  upper 
basin  is  99  feet ;  and  both  the  basins  together,  hold  a 
million  of  eailons. 

On  the  Brandywine  river,  within  four  miles,  there 
are  no  less  than  42  water-wheels  employed  in  the 
manufacture  of  gunpowder,  cotton  and  woollen  goods, 
flour,  paper,  in  saw-mills,  and  in  the  preparation  of 
barley,  and  other  matters,  and  with  ample  room  and 
water  power,  it  is  said,  remaining,  for  at  least  fifty 
more.  The  Messrs.  Duponts  employ  eighteen  wheels, 
and  manufacture  3000  pounds  of  gunpowder  daily. 

The  Brandywine  Chalybeate  Spring  (Stanley's 
Hotel)  is  five  miles  west  oT  the  village,  on  elevated 
i^round,  and  offers  some  attractions. 

The  old  Swedish  church,  built  in  1698,  by  the  early 
inhabitants  of  this  place,  is  still  to  be  seen,  surrounded 
by  larire  sycamores.  It  stands  near  the  Christiana 
Creek,  nearly  opposite  the  site  of  the  fir^t  place  of 
worship  erected  here  by  the  Swedes.  That  spot  is 
now  marked  only  by  a  few  tomb-stones.  This  town 
was  settled  by  the  companions  of  William  Useling^ 
in  1631. 

OHIO. 

Although  so  far  removed  from  the  territory  hereto- 
fore regar'ied  as  within  the  limits  of  the  Northern 
Traveller,  this  new  and  flourishing  state  has  recently 
taken  so  high  a  rank  in  importance,  enterprise,  and 
numbers,  that  it  will  se  vtsited  by  travellers  of  intelli- 
gence, disposed  to  witness  the  aspect  of  a  country 
which  has  been  the  theatre  of  a  most  rapid  improve- 
ment, and  has  already  risen  to  the  rank  of  the  fourth 
state  in  the  Union,  in  point  of  population.     To  such,  a 

few  brief  remarks  will  not  be  entirely  superfluous. 

L12 


im 


:5t)8 


HOLTE    TO   OHIO. 


i  m. 


The  following  may  be  recommended  as  a  general 
tour. 

First  proceed  to  Wheeling ;  down  the  Ohio  river  to 
Cincinnati ;  across  the  country  to  Sandusky  Bay  by 
the  western  route  in  good  stage  coaches ;  thence  by 
steamboat  to  Detroit,  and,  if  desired,  onward  to  the 
western  lakes.  Returning,  by  steam,  land  at  Cleave- 
land,  and  make  an  excursion  on  the  canal  (which, 
although  about  350  miles  \ont;,  is  not  very  interesting). 
Then  take  steamboat  to  Buffalo,  whence  the  traveller 
may  take  v/hat  route  he  preiers. 

The  mail,  in  summer,  goes  iVom  New-York  to  Ohio 
bjr  Philadelphia,  in  ten  days,  and  by  Buffalo  and  Lake 
Erie  in  five  and  a  half. 

Only  a  few  of  the  principal  places  on  the  tour  will 
be  noticed.  In  1828,  a  steamboat  of  110  tons  went  up 
the  river  to  Oil  Creek,  wi'nin  a  few  miles  of  Warren. 

Pittsburgh. — The  Pennsylvania  canal,  when  com- 
pleted, wifl  connect  this  town  with  Philadelphia,  by  a 
navigable  communication.  Tbe  works  connecting  the 
present  canal  with  the  river,  the  aqueduct  across  the 
river,  &c.,  will  be  worthy  of  particular  attention. 
This  is  more  like  a  manufacturing  town  in  England, 
than  2Lny  other  in  the  United  States.  It  would  surpass 
our  limits  to  enumerate  all  the  manufactories  here. 
We  can  only  remark  that  ihe  greatest  iron  works  in 
the  western  country  are  the  Juniata  Works  in  Pitts- 
burgh. They  give  employment  to  55  lersons,  and 
make  26,000  weight  of  nails  in  a  day,  consuming  425 
bushels  of  coal. 

In  1829,  there  were  consumed  in  the  different  Foun- 
dries, Rolling  Mills,  and  Steam  Engine  Factories,  in 
and  about  Pittsburgh,  six  thomand  tons  of  blooms,  and 
five  thousand  tons  of  pig  metal.  These  articles  are 
brought  principally  down  the  Monongabe-la  and  Alle- 
ghany rivers. 

There  are-  nine  Foundries,  which  use  about  3,500 
tons  of  pig  metal,  and  employ  about  225  hands. 

The  Rollinsr  Mills  are  eight  in  number*  and  are  no^r 


m  rH 


AA^ESVILLE. 


J9U 


..Inedy  employed  in  rolling  Juniala  blooms,  of  which 
they  use  about  6000  tons.  They  also  consume  about 
1,500  tons  of  pig  metal,  and  employ  about  320  hands. 

There  are  nine  Nail  Factories,  which  manufacture 
daily  about  18  tons  of  nails,  and  employ  about  150 
bands. 

There  are  also  seven  Steam  Engine  Factories,  in 
which  are  employed  about  210  hands.  As  yet  but 
three  steam  engines  have  been  sent  east  of  the  moun- 
tains, four  or  five  to  the  northern  lakes,  and  one  to 
Mexico.  Within  two  or  three  years  past,  the  casting 
of  sugar  kettles,  sugar  mills,  and  small  steam  engines 
to  drive  them,  for  the  planters  of  Louisiana,  has  be- 
come a  very  important  branch  of  manufacturing  busi- 
ness, and  is  increasing. 

In  addition  to  the  metal  and  blooms  above  mentioned, 
a  large  quantity  of  bar  iron  is  brought  to  Pittsburgh 
from  Juniata. 

The  water  was  broujrht  across  the  aqueduct  in 
Nov.  1829 ;  and  the  preparations  were  almost  com- 
pleted to  connect  the  canal  with  the  river  and  steam- 
boat navigation. 

There  is  a  turnpike  to  Erie,  distance  125  miles,  with 
Ti  daily  line  of  stage  coaches. 

Zanesvii'le  will  probably  become  great  as  a  manu- 
facturing town ;  being  situated  in  a  region  well  sup- 
plied with  iron  and  coal  mines,  and  streams  of  water. 

The  appearance  of  the  country  along  the  Ohio  at 
Wheeling  is  remarkably  beautiful ;  and  the  country 
has  thence  derived  the  name  of  Belmont.  The  land 
is  undulating,  and  rises  gradually  for  a  distance  back, 
aflfording  many  fine  retrospects  to  a  traveller  in  that 
direction,  over  a  well  cultivated  region.  Consi<ierable 
quantities  of  tobacco  are  now  raised  here,  which  will 
be  increased  when  the  means  of  transportation  are 
improved  by  the  railroad.  It  is  said  that  four  dollars 
per  cwt.  will  pay  the  cultivator. 

The  falls  of  the  Ohio  were  expected  to  be  passable 
^y  the  canal  making  on  the  Kentucky  side,  m  1830. 


-  Si 

{ 


400 


KOUTE    TO   OHIO. 


The  works  are  extensive  and  interesting-;   and  ta^i 
facilities  they  must  afford,  highly  important. 

Ohio  Canal. — According  to  the  report  of  the  Com 
missioners  of  this  canal,  made  in  January  1830,  the 
northern  division  of  the  Ohio  canal,  extending  from 
Lake  Erie  to  the  Licking  summit,  190  miles,  was 
nearly  completed,  and  the  whole  line  from  Cleave- 
land  to  Newark,  180  miles,  was  expected  to  be  opened 
for  narigation  early  in  the  spring.  The  sum  paid  for 
constructing  *hat  part  of  the  canal  up  to  the  tirst  of 
Dec.  last,  was  Jjl ,916,324.  The  estimated  sum  re- 
quired to  complete  it  was  21,204  dolls  ,  exclusive  of 
the  navigable  feeders.  Cost  of  the  Tuscarawas  and 
Walhonding  navigable  feeders  was  48,721  »iollars. — 
Making  the  whole  cost  of  that  division  of  the  c  «nal, 
including  feeders  and  reservoirs,  1,986,271  dollars. 
Estimated  cost  of  the  Muskingum  Side  Cut,  or  Branch 
Cut,  35,400  dollars. 

The  whole  line  of  canal  between  the  Licking  sum- 
mit and  the  Ohio  river,  119  miles,  an'i  the  Columbus 
feeder,  II  miles,  was  under  contract  to  be  complf^ted, 
at  different  periods,  before  the  first  of  June,  1831. 
On  a  part  oi  it  considerable  work  had  been  done. 
The  amount  of  work  done  on  that  division  was 
415,769  dollars.  The  total  cost  of  that  division  was 
estimated  at  1,501,213  dollars.  Aggregate  amount  of 
money  paid  for  constructing  the  Ohio  canal,  up  to 
Doc.  1,  1829,  51,336,367  dollars—and  the  estimated 
smn  required  to  complete  it  was  1,248,000  dollars — 
making  the  total  cost  of  the  Ohio  canal,  3,584,367  dol- 
lars, exclusive  of  the  expenses  of  engineering  and 
superintending  the  construction. 

[The  Legislature  of  Kentucky  have  incorporated  a 
company  for  the  purpose  of  constructing  a  railroad 
from  Lexington  lo  some  point  (not  designated)  on  the 
Ohio;  the  amount  of  stock,  1,000,000,  with  the  privi- 
lege of  increasing  it,  at  the  pleasure  of  the  stockhold- 
ers, to  2,000,000.  The  price  of  transportation  is  to  be 
regulated  by  the  Legislature.    The  work  is  to  be  com 


siATisTicjs  or  OlllU. 


4Ul 


g;   and  iar. 
nt. 

of  the  Com 
iry  1830,  the 
ending  from 
I  miles,  was 
rom  Cleave- 
to  be  opened 
sum  paid  for 

0  the  first  of 
ited  sum  re- 
exclusive  of 

icarawas  and 
21  .iollars.— 
of  the  c  tnal, 
,271  dollars, 
ut,  or  Branch 

Licking  sum- 
he  Columbus 
►e  completed, 
'  June,  1831. 

1  been  done, 
division   was 

division  was 
ite  amount  of 
canal,  up  to 
he  estimated 
000  dollars— 
5,584,367  dol- 
i  nee  ring  and 

icorporated  a 
ig  a  railroad 
nated)  on  the 
ith  the  privi- 
he  stockhold- 
ation  is  to  be 
is  to  be  com- 


uienced  within  three,  and  completed  within  ten  years 
thereafter.] 

[There  are  now  enumerated  three  hundred  and 
twenty-three  steamboats  upon  the  Mississippi  and 
Ohio  rivers,  whose  aggregate  burden  is  estimated  at 
56,000  tons — the  largest  boat  measuring  600,  and  the 
most  common  size  being  230  tons.  A  boat  now  reaches 
Cincinnati,  ordinarily,  in  from  ten  to  twelve  days  trom 
the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi,  while  eight  or  nine  dajs 
suffice  to  run  from  Louisville  to  Pittsburgh  and  bacK.] 

In  1827  the  Portaffe  summit  was  opened  to  naviga- 
tion as  far  as  Cleaveland.  This  summit  is  the  highest 
point  on  the  canal,  being  nearly  400  feet  above  it.  The 
elevation  is  surmounted  by  42  locks.  It  is  38  miles 
from  the  lake. 

The  whole  Miami  canal  was  opened  early  in  the 
year  1828,  with  flattering  prospects  of  success  and 
public  advantage.  It  extends  67  miles  from  Cincin- 
nati to  near  Dayton. 

Cincinnati. — This  place  is  remarkable  for  the  ra- 
pidity of  its  grov/th.  In  1800  it  contained  a  iittle  above 
2000;  in  1810,4000;  in  1826  above  16,000;  and  in 
1829  above  25,000.  There  are  16  places  of  public 
worship ;  a  Commercial  Hospital,  Lunatic  Asylum, 
Medical  College,  and  the  Western  Museum.  There 
are  nine  printingoffices,  which  publish  nine  newspapers. 
Here  is  published  the  "  Western  Quarterly  Revievv.'' 
Heretofore  the  business  lias  been  done  principally  with 
New-Orleans:  but  the  length  and  difficulties  of  the 
voyage,  and  the  exposuio  to  disease  operjite  as  great 
objections  to  it. 

Statistics  of  Ohio  for  1829.— Acres  of  land,  15,878,171, 
valued  at  $41,193,000,  including  buildings.  Value 
v)f  town  lots,  including  buildings,  $8,330,985.  Horses, 
178,319,  valued  at  $7,012,760.  Cattle,  719,596,  va- 
lued at  $5,756,768.  Merchants'  capital,  valued  at 
$3,940,156.  State  tax,  $193,609.  County  tax,  $173,- 
1)93.  Road  tax,  $71,950  Towt>4iiD  tax,  $52,096. 
School  tn\.  SfelT.so.), 


% 


4i)-! 


CITV  OF  VmiiADELPHf  A 


n\ 


ti'v 


raE  CITY  OF  PHILADELPHIA. 

Hotels. — United  States  Hotel,  in  Chesnut-street,  op- 
posite the  United  States  Bank.  National  Hotel,  op- 
posite the  post  office.  Mansion  House,  in  South  3cl 
street,  between  Walnut  and  Spruce.  Judo's,  2d,  be- 
tween Market  and  Chesnut. 

Boarding  Houses. — Mrs.  Frazier's,  in  vSpruce  street ; 
Mrs.  Swords,  Walnut ;  Mrs.  Allen,  6th,  near  the  State 
House. 

Philadelphia  is  the  second  city,  for  size,  in  the 
United  States  ;  and  is  rennarkable  lor  the  regularity  of 
its  streets,  which,  almost  without  exception,  run  at 
right  angles,  and  are  of  an  equal  and  convenient 
breadth.  Some  of  the  public  buildings  are  worthy  of 
particular  notice,  as  among  t'f  e  finest  and  most  correct 
specimens  of  architecture  in  the  country. 

It  will  be  convenient  to  the  stranger  to  recollect 
that  the  streets  running  north  and  south  are  named 
First,  Second,  Third,  &c.,  beginning  on  both  sides  of 
the  city,  on  the  banks  of  the  Delaware  and  Schuylkill, 
until  they  meet  at  the  square  near  the  centre.  The 
streets  which  run  cast  and  west,  are  generally  named 
after  trees  ;  the  lanes  and  alleys,  after  shrubs,  &c. 

The  Market. — This  consists  of  a  succession  of  build- 
ings in  the  mivldle  of  Market-i'iv^e,,  extending  from 
the  fish  market  on  the  rjver's  ba  I  to  Eighth-street, 
affording  room  for  a  convenient  display  of  the  nume- 
rous articles  daily  brought  in  for  the  supply  of  the 

city. 

rost  Office,  Chesnut-street,  between  Third  and 
Fourth. 

The  Bank  of  the  United  States,  in  Chesnut-street, 
between  Fourth  and  Fifth.  This  is  the  finest  specimen 
of  pure  Grecian  taste  in  the  United  States.  H  is  built 
jf  white  marble  in  the  form  of  a  temple,  with  two 
iVonts,each  ornamented  with  eight  fine  Doric  column?. 


IWlVERtJiiiJ. 


40o 


Third    and 


of  the  ^P' ;r:.i  pioportions  without  bases.  Besidts  the 
banking  room,  which  is  large,  orcupving  the  centre, 
and  lighted  through  a  glasr  dome,  lliere  are  many 
other  apartments,  particularly  thope  devoted  to  the 
printing  of  the  notes,  and  that  below,  which  contains 
the  furnace  for  warming  it  with  Lehigh  coal  in  the 
winter. 

Gerard's  Bonk,  in  Third,  facing  Dock-street.  This 
building  is  also  of  marble,  and  presents  a  beautiful 
row  of  six  Corinthian  columns. 

The  Bank  of  Pennsylvania^  opposite,  has  two  fronts, 
on  Second  and  Dock-streets,  each  with  six  Ionic  co- 
lumns. This  is  another  chaste  and  beautiful  building 
of  white  marble. 

The  State  House,  in  Chesnut-street,  between  Fifth 
and  Sixth-streets,  is  a  large  brick  building,  with  court 
rooms,  &;c.  at  either  end.  In  the  front  room,  east  of 
the  main  entrance,  the  old  Continental  Congress  held 
their  sessions  ;  and  there  the  Declaration  of  Independ- 
ence was  signed,  July  4th,  1776. 

The  MheniEUin  is  adjoining,  open  all  day  to  stran- 


gers. 


The  Philosophical  Society's  Library  and  Cabinet, 

Independence  Square  is  a  fine  shaded  piece  of  ground, 
behind  the  State  House.  Opposite  in  Walnut-street, 
is  the  State  Prison,  built  ot  dark  stone,  and  con- 
nected with  a  yard  enclosed  by  high  walls. 

City  Library,  Fifth  street,  open  to  the  public  from 
2,  P.  M.  See  Franklin's  apparatus,  and  CromwelPs 
clock. 

The  University  contains  a  medical  department,  and 
the  Wistar  Museum,  with  a  library,  garden,  &c.  This 
Institution  is  considered  the  most  richly  endowed 
among  all  those  in  United  States.  It  has  recently  un- 
dergone a  new  organization.  A  new  medical  build- 
ing nas  been  added,  and  the  professors  are  numerous 
as  well  as  respectable.    The  annual  income  is  $15,000. 

Here  is  a  High  School,  subservient  to  the  Franklin 
Institute.    The  general  system  of  public  iffe^^^ction 


e  \t 


m 


404 


UlTi:   OF   PHILADELPHIA. 


X. 


1*  f-i; 


i 


fi-  J  %^ 


IS  extensive  and  of  marked  benefit.  Infant  Schoois 
are  numerous,  and  the  system  has  been  ingrafted  on 
some  of  the  numerous  Sunday  Schools. 

The  Arcade^  in  Chtisnut-street,  is  a  fine  building  of 
stone,  with  two  arched  passages  leading  to  Lafayette* 
street.  It  is  occupied  tor  shops,  and  has  galleries  in 
the  upper  story.  The  Philadelphia  Museum  of  Mr. 
Peale  is  in  the  northern  jpart.  It  contains  a  large  col- 
lection of  curiosities  of  various  descriptions.  The 
birds  are  very  numerous,  but  not  well  preserved.  The 
huge  skeleton  of  a  mammoth  will  attract  particular 
attention,  being  represented  entire ;  for  the  parts 
which  were  deficient  on  one  side,  have  been  supplied 
by  imitations  of  those  on  the  other. 

Mr.  Sully's  Exhibition  of  Paintings  is  opposite  the 
State  House,  ^nd  contains  fine  pictures. 

Washington  Square  is  on  the  other  side  of  Six>h-street. 
with  a  handsomt  church  on  the  southern  side,  with  a 
range  of  wooden  columns. 

The  Pennsylvania  Hospital  is  a  large  and  admirable 
institution,  in  the  next  street,  where  great  numbers  oi 
sick  are  attended.  Twenty-five  cents  will  secure  ad- 
mission to  the  building  and  g&iJens,  and  also  to  the 
top. 

Wesfs  Celebrated  Picture  of  (/hrist  Healing  the  Sick, 
is  exhibited  in  a  neat  little  building  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  street.  It  represents  the  Saviour  surrounded 
by  a  crowd  cf  persons  in  the  temple,  among  whom 
are  observed  many  afflicted  with  various  diseases, 
pressing  forward  to  be  healed.  In  front  is  a  paralytic 
woman  borne  by  two  men,  w  hose  healthy  countenances 
form  a  striking  contrast  with  her  cadaverous  aspect  j 
and  the  paiiiter  has  given  a  reddish  tint  to  her  feet, 
which  fc^em  alr«iady  to  have  felt  the  miraculous  influ- 
ence. A  blind  :Tian  appears  behind,  led  by  his  sons  ; 
and  on  the  leu-fa:md  is  an  infant  supported  by  its  mo- 
ther, with  u  pool  blind  girl  and  other  figures.  Near 
the  centre  h  a  lunatic  boy,  rather  too  shocking  a  sub- 
jeci  for  6ucL  i  picture :  and  a  number  of  .Tewjeh  Rah 


CITV    01-    l'HlLAt)ELPHlA. 


4U5 


bis  are  collected,  with  countenances  expressive  of  vio- 
lent passions. 

The  apartment  is  admirably  calculated  for  the  dis- 
play of  the  picture,  which  is  universally  considered 
one  of  the  finest  and  most  interesting  in  the  United 
States. 

The  Theatre,  in  Chesnut-street,  between  Sixth  and 
Seventh-streets,  has  a  marble  front,  with  the  entrance 
under  a  portico,  ornamented  with  statues  of  Comedy 
and  l'rap:ed5\ 

The  Masonic  Hall  is  a  little  beyond,  and  somewhat 
in  the  Gothic  style,  with  a  small  court  yard  in  front. 

The  Academy  of  Arts,  Chesnut-street,  between 
Tenth  and  Eleventh,  contains  a  collection  of  statues, 
(among  these  are  Canova's  Three  Graces,)  busts,  &c.  in 
marble  and  plaster,  ranged  in  an  apartment  lighted 
from  the  top ;  and  beyond  a  gallery  of  pictures  w  ith 
many  specimens  of  the  works  of  American  artists, 
particularly  of  Alston,  among  which  is  conspicuous 
that  of  the  dead  body  restored  to  life  by  the  bones  of 
the  prophet  Elisha. 

'I'he  Jefferson  Medical  College  is  in  Tenth-street,  be- 
tween Chesnut  and  Walnut.  , 

In  Arch-street  is  a  Theatre. 

The  Orphans''  and  the  Widoii^s'  Asylums  are  in  the 
western  part  of  the  city. 

Academy  of  Natural  Sciences.  Penn^s  house,  Letiiia 
court.     United  States''  Mint,*  &c.  &c. 

Swaini''s  Bath  is  in  Seventh-street. 


*  Thft  rnport  of  the  Director  of  the  Mint,  in  JSilT,  states  that  the 
r(;iMajie  eftectnl  wiUiin  tiiat  year  amounted  to  $3,024,342  32,  consistiug 
of  9,097,H45  pieces  of  coin.  viz. 

OfCoJd,  27,7J3  pieces ;  making         $i:U,5fi.i  00 

Silver,  C).7J2,4l)0  do.  ^,869,200  00 

Copper,  2,357,";32  do.  23,577  32 

9,097,845  $3,024,342  32 

I'lie  coinaee  effecfxd  at  ilic  Mint  rintiiig  1329,  amounts  lo  $2,30fi,R7r). 
'  on)prisiiig  !S295,717  in  pold  coins,  ^1,994,573  in  silver,  and  8][(),580  in 
'  upper.    The  number  of  pieces  of  ail  kinds  is  stand  to  he  .17,074,501 

I  p;  1 1,.' '.'<>'(!  I'tiiiion  ti>»j»osifed  at  the  MiiU^vithin  »!>■>  !>«';t  v^s^r    'h* 

M  m 


4UG 


cm    OF    rillLAl>KLi»HiA. 


There  arc  two  Medical  Institutions  in  this  city,  wheit 
lectures  are  delivered  toji^roat  numbers  of  students. 

The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  is  a  vahjable  institu- 
tion ;  as  is  the  Friends^  Alms  House  in  Wahiut-street, 
between  Third  and  Fourth,  where  poor  families  are 
placed  in  separate  houses,  among  small  gardens,  and 
furnished  with  employment. 

Mr.  Bedell's  (episcopal)  church  in  Eighth-street,  and 
Mr.  Montgomery  s,  m  Tenth,  are  considered  the  finest 
in  the  city.  The  latter  is  in  a  kind  of  Gothic  style. 
Near  the  Schuylkill  is  a  manufactory  of  Porcelain. 

The  banks  of  the  Schuylkill*  are  well  formed  lor  the 
display  of  the  large  public  edifices  which  will  be  per- 
ceivea  ranged  along  their  eminences  for  two  or  three 
miles,  to  the  honour  of  Philadelphia  and  the  ornament 
of  its  environs. 

A  canal  was  projected  some  years  ago  between  the 
two  rivers,  and  was  beerun,  near  Fairmount.  The  pro- 
ject has  recently  been  started  a^ain  ;  and  it  has  been 
proposed  to  make  a  canal  40  leet  wide,  5  feet  deep, 
and  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length.  The  expense  is  esti- 
mated at  198,000  dollars. 

Mr.  PratVs  Garden  is  about  3  miles  north-west  from 
the  centre  of  the  city,  and  worthy  of  a  visit.  It  is  a 
private  garden,  but  tickets  of  admission  may  be  easily 
obtained  through  respectable  inhabitants.  The  siiua- 
tion  is  agieeable  and  commanding,  on  a  little  cape  or 

proportion  received  from  Mexico,  South  America,  and  the  West  Indies, 
may  be  stated  at  76,000  dollars;  that  of  North  Carolina  at  yj.OCO  do! 
lars;  and  that  from  Africa  15,000  dollars  ;  leaving  about  20,000  derived 
from  sources  not  ascertained.  Tlie  whole  amount  received  from  North 
Carolina,  to  tlie  present  period,  is  nearly  110,000.  This  gold  has  gene- 
rally been  found  to  exceed  in  fineness  the  standard  of  our  sold  coins. 

The  whole  coitiage  executed  since  the  establiihment  of  the  Mint 
amounts  to  30,465,444  dollars,  14^  cents,  consisting  of  103,081,178  pieces 
of  coin,  viz. 

Of  Gold,  1.538,161  pieces;  making  $8,255,667  50 

Silver,        47,:}a9,0eG  do.  iil, 6^5.899  90 

Copper,      54,154,931  do.  513,876  74^ 

103,081,178  30,465,444  14J 

*  The  length  of  the  permanent  bridge  from  abutment  to  abutment  ir 
•'^54  feet  six  inches— ihar  of  the  upper  ferry  353  feet  4  inches. 


PEMTEM'lAliY. 


40' 


is  city,  w he u 
f  students, 
luable  institu- 
/Valnut-street, 
•  families  are 
gardens,  and 

jth-street,  and 
ared  the  finest 
Gothic  style. 
Porcelain, 
tbrmed  for  the 
:h  will  be  per- 
two  or  three 
the  ornament 

0  between  the 
int.  The  pro- 
kI  it  has  been 
B,  5  feet  deep, 
ixpense  is  esti- 

)rth-west  from 

visit.     It  is  a 

may  be  easily 

.     The  siiua- 

little  cape  or 

(1  the  West  Indies, 
Ina  at  yj.RM  do! 

)()ut  20,000  derived 

ceived  from  North 
lis  gold  has  gene- 
our  gold  coins. 

nent  Of  the  Mint 
103,081,178  pieces 

1,255,667  50 
l,6i)5,899  00 
513,876  m 

,465,444  Uk 

ent  to  abuiment  ir 

inclies. 


jjiumontory  on  the  Schuylkill ;  and  from  the  g*ravelled 
walks  the  visiter  enjoys  a  view  down  the  river,  of  the 
basin,  the  dam,  the  water  works,  below  which  are  the 
State  Priion,  House  of  Refuge,  Hospital,  the  two 
bridges,  and  on  the  opposite  side  a  handsome  seat 
called  '*  Woodlands."  These  grounds  were  purchased, 
in  1828,  for  the  site  of  a  Poor  House,  on  the  plan  ex- 
tensively adopted  in  New-England. 

The  Schuylkill  Water  Works.  Pipes  more  than  32^ 
miles;  ♦expense  of  raising,  $4[  per  daj'.  There  is  a 
large  stone  building  of  chaste  architecture,  containing  5 
large  water  wheels,  which  are  capable  of  raising  7 
millions  of  gallons  in  24  hours.  They  are  turned  by 
a  current  from  the  dam  above.  The  reservoirs  are  on 
the  hill  above,  which  is  higher  than  any  part  of  the 
city,  which  it  supplies.  They  contain  together  i  1  mil- 
lions of  gallons.  The  steam  engine  is  no  longer  used. 
The  keeper  demands  nothing  tor  showing  the  works. 

The  House  of  R^uge  was  established  in  1828. 

Penitentiary.  This  is  a  large  and  singular  construc- 
tion, and  built  on  a  plan  different  from  that  which  is 
at  present  most  in  vogue  in  this  country.  The  prison- 
ers are  to  be  all  kept  in  solitary  confinement. 

The  front  of  the  prison  is  large  and  imposing,  like 
the  gate  of  a  fortress.  The  wall  is  40  fret  high,  built 
of  granite,  and  encloses  a  squ  ire  650  teet  on  each  side. 
The  rooms  of  the  guard,  keepers,  and  servants,  as  well 
as  the  cooking  and  washing  rooms,  are  in  the  front 
building;  while  the  cells  are  formed  in  seven  long 
intone  galleries,  radiating  irom  an  octagon  in  the  centre. 
The  entrances  to  the  cells  are  through  little  yards  from 
the  outside,  and  each  has  a  wicket  door  in  the  gallery. 
A  sentinel  in  the  octagon,  by  turning  on  his  heel,  can 
look  through  all  the  galleries  ;  and  the  arched  roofs  re- 
verberate every  sound,  so  that  he  can  hear  a  very 
slight  noise. 

This  prison  is  built  on  a  principle  believed  by  many 
to  be  erroneous.  Solitary  confinement  is  a  veiy  un- 
equal kind  of  punishment  to  different  iiidividuals,  and 


ii;^ 


ii 


fit  I 


1 '  ifii, 


iliili 


AOt 


UlT^    OF    PlllLADKLtUlA. 


vciy  expensive  lo  the  public.     This  is  an  extensive 
experinnrnt  on  an  old  and  exploded  system. 

The  Naval  Hospital  is  situated  about  2  miles  south- 
west from  the  centre  of  the  city.  The  expense  is  de- 
frayed t)y  funds  contributed  t)y  the  ofiirersand  seamen 
of  the  U.  S.  Navy,  out  of  their  pay.  The  buildinp:  is 
on  an  eminence,  commands  an  extensive  vitiw,  and 
makes  a  tine  appearance  from  a  distance.  The  front 
is  386  feet  in  length,  3  stories  high,  and  will  be  largo 
enough  to  loiige  300  or  400  persons.  The  first  story 
is  of  granite,  and  the  2d  and  3d  of  marble,  both  which 
kinds  of  stone  are  found  in  abundance  in  the  vicinity 
of  Philadelphia.  Several  edifices  are  to  be  erected  at 
other  naval  stations  for  the  same  objects,  and  supported 
by  the  same  fund. 

The  Arsenal  is  situated  just  below  the  Hospital. 

The  Navy  Yard  (on  the  banks  of  the  Delaware). 
Here,  as  in  most  of  the  principal  navy  yards  in  the  U. 
States,  ships  of  war  are  built  under  the  shelter  of  im- 
mense buildings,  which  protect  the  workmen  and  the 
timber  from  exposure  to  tne  weather.  Of  the  two  build- 
ings here,  the  larger  one  contains  the  line-oi-battle 
ship  Pennsylvania,  said  to  be  intended  for  the  largest 
in  the  world.  She  is  to  carry  140  or  150  guns,  and  is 
building  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Huniphreys.  The 
smaller  hou5ie  is  for  frigates.  The  "Franklin"  and 
"  North  Carolina,"ships  of  the  line,  and  the  frigates  U. 
States  and  Guerriere  were  built  at  this  place.  In  1829 
the  frigate  Rariton  and  sloop  of  war  Vandalia  were 
on  the  stocks. 

'The  north  side  of  the navjr  yard  is  devoted  to  brick 
buildings  for  the  residence  of  officers,  ship  timber,  &:c. 
while  at  the  south  end  are  the  workshops.  7  he  Ma- 
rine Barracks  are  on  the  western  side ;  and  the  area 
of  the  yard,  which  is  walled  with  brick,  is  about  12 
acres. 

The  interests  of  the  city,  as  well  as  the  coasting* 
trade,  will  be  benefited  by  the  construction  of  the  great 


w~ 


an  extensive 
rn. 

I  miles  soiith- 
xpense  is  de- 
s  and  seanu'i) 
le  buildirjp^  is 
e  view,  and 
I.  The  front 
will  he  large 
16  first  story 
e,  both  which 
1  the  vicinity 
be  erected  at 
nd  supporteil 

Flospital. 
!  Delaware), 
irds  i[)  the  U. 
helter  of  im- 
men  and  the 
he  twobuild- 
line-of-battlo 
r  the  largest 
guns,  and  is 
)hreys.  The 
ranklin"  and 
le  frigates  U. 
ice.  In  1B29 
indalia  were 

oted  to  brick 
)  timber,  &^c. 
5.  7he  Ma- 
md  the  area 
,  is  about  12 

the  coasting- 
n  of  the  areat 


CIIEISAFEAKE    AND    DELAWAKE    CANAI .        409 

Hreabmitcr  at  the  mouth  of  Delaware  Bay,  for  which 
iJon^ress  appro])riated  250,000  dollars.  It  is  an  ex- 
pensive work  ;  but  by  affording  a  protection  to  vessels 
on  the  coast  in  dangerous  weather,  will  speedily  effect 
a  saving  equal  to  the  expense. 

The  extensive  me  idows  south  of  Philadelphia  pre- 
sent a  beautiful  scere  of  fertility  and  cultivation.     A 
ride  in  that  direction  at  morning  or  evening  is  recom 
^::unded. 

THE  CHESAPEAKE  AND  DELAWARE 

CANAL. 

The  steamboat  Newcastle  plies  between  Philadel- 
l»hia  and  the  head  of  the  Canal  at  Delaware  city,  five 
miles  below  Newcastle.  A  large  hotel  is  erecting 
there.  There  are  steamboats  plying  between  Phila- 
delphia and  several  other  places.  On  the  Chesapeake 
the  George  Washington  runs  between  the  canal  and 
Baltimore.     There  is  a  line  of  packets. 

This  is  the  most  gigantic  work  of  the  kind  ever 
effected  in  the  United  States,  in  regard  to  the  dimen- 
sions of  its  parts,  and  the  size  of  the  vessels  to  which 
it  is  intended  to  give  a  passage.  The  object  of  its 
construction  was  to  divert  a  large  portion  oi  the  trade 
of  the  Susquehannah  river  into  Delaware  Bay,  chiefly 
for  the  benefit  of  Philadelphia.  It  was  partially 
opened  to  navigation  in  April,  1828;  and  the  Citizens' 
Line  of  packet  boats  having  been  established  upon  it, 
many  traveller*^  will  be  anxious  to  avail  themselves  of 
an  early  opportunity  to  inspect  a  construction  on  every 
account  so  well  worthy  of  attention.  These  boats  are 
90  feet  in  length,  and  very  elegant  and  commodious. 
Two  of  the  finest  barges  are  the  Balthnore  and  the 
Philadelphia, 

it  is  intended  for  sloops  of  the  largest  class,  and 

schooners :  the  locks  being  100  by  22  feet,  and  the 

canal  60  feet  wide  at  the  water  line.    It  was  originally 

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23  WEST  MAIN  STRr<T 

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ilO        (JHKSArF.AKH    \SD    DELAWARE    t.ANAf.. 

intended  to  secure  a  depth  of  only  8  feet :  but  it  liaf^ 
since  been  increased  to  10  feet.    The  steamboats  Car- 
roll and  William  Penn  are  very  fine  and  splendid. 
The  latter  is  408  tons,  150  feet  loj)^:,  and  draws  only  Ah 
feet  of  water  ;  of  the  most  approved  model  for  speed, 
with  two  engines  of  nearly  eighty  horse  power,  con- 
structed upon  the  mr)st  improved  and  sate  principles. 
Her  cabins  are  so  arranged  as  to  forni  at  pleasure  one 
entire  apartment  the  whole  length  of  the  vessel,  all  of 
which  is  highly  finished,  and  decorated  with  simpli- 
city, but  great  taste  ;  between  two  and  three  hundred 
might  dine  with  great  comfort  in  this  apartment ;  seven 
or  eight  hundred  perhaps  might  be  accommodated  on 
her  main  deck. 

The  principal  objects  upon  the  line  which  will  in- 
terest a  stranger  are,  the  harbour  on  the  Delaware,  the 
adjoining  embankment  On  St.  Georaje's  Marsh,  the 
Deep  Cut,  and  the  Summit  Bridge.  Three  towns  have 
been  laid  out  on  the  route  :  Delaware,  Chesapeake,  and 
Bohemia. 

The  Harbour  on  the  Delaware  is  at  Delaware  City. 
It  is  formed  by  two  piers  running  into  the  water;  one 
five  hundred  teet  long,  and  the  other  six  hundred,  with 
a  return  pier  of  one  hundred  feet.  Boats  enter  the  first 
lock  a  little  distance  from  this. 

Swivel  Bridge,  The  first  of  three  swivel  bridges 
is  pissed  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  Dela- 
waiii. 

St  George's  Marsh*  This  is  a  low,  flat  tract  of  land, 
over  which  the  tide  ebbed  and  flowed  until  a  great 
embankment  was  raised  which  serves  as  a  towing 
path,  and  excludes  the  water.  The  soil  was  so  soft 
and  light,  that  earth  was  brought  from  a  distance  to 
form  the  bank  ;  which  graduajTy  sunk  so  far  that  it  is 
supposed  to  have  displaced,  in  some  parts,  a  quantity 
equal  to  a  column  of  forty  feet.  At  St.  George's  is 
another  lock,  of  the  usual  dimensions,  and  a  swivel 
bridge.  At  the  end  of  three  miles  the  Cranberry 
Marshes  are  also  passed :  and  three  miles  further  if* 


THK  pe:^.nsvlva.nia  ca:«al. 


4H 


The  old  Mill  Pond,  which  serves  as  a  part  of  the 
canal. 

The  Deep  Cut  is  a  section  five  nniles  long,  where  the 
height  of  tne  bank  varies  from  8  to  70  feet.  Over  the 
niiudle  of  it  is  extended  the  Sunnnit  bridge,  a  most 
imposing  construction,  reaching  from  hill  to  hill,  with  a 
single  arch  of  235  feet  span,  at  the  deepest  part  of  this 
immense  trench,  and  bearing  its  key  at  the  elevation 
of  90  feet  above  the  bottom  of  the  canal.  Schooners 
and  the  largest  sloops  may  pass  beneath  with  their 
masts  standing  ;  and  the  view  embraced  by  the  eye 
from  above  or  below  is  grand,  impressive,  and  almost 
terrific. 

The  IVesfern  Lift  Lock  is  a  few  miles  further  west ; 
and  beyond  this  a  Basin,  400  by  100  feet. 

The  Debouche  Lock  opens  at  the  end  of  the  Basfn 
into  Back  Creek,  at  Chesapeake  Village,  4  miles  from 
Chesapeake  Bav. 

The  principal  reservoir  on  the  line  is  a  pond  of  100 
acres,  ten  feet  in  depth. 

[The  Pennsylvania  Canal. 

Under  this  general  name  is  comprehended  a  great 
and  extensive  system  of  internal  improvements,  for 
several  years  designed  by  the  Legislature  of  this  state. 
Numerous  plans  for  canals  and  railways  have  been 
proposed  and  considered,  surveys  have  neen  made  of 
the  principal  routes  supp2>sed  to  be  capable  of  im- 
provement for  the  benefit  of  the  public,  and  consider- 
able progress  has  been  made  in  some  places  in  works 
to  connect  the  waters  of  the  Ohio  and  Susquehan- 
nah,  while  navigation  has  been  opened  up  to  the  Mauch 
Chunk  Mines,  &c.  It  will  be  some  time  before  the 
western  works  will  be  so  far  completed  as  to  attract 
many  travellers  from  the  established  routes ;  but  such 
inibrmation  as  they  may  hereafter  desire,  may  be 
looked  for  in  subsequent  editions  of  this  little  book. 


\\'2 


TUE    PE.SNSYLVAiSlA   CANAL. 


In  1829,  there  were  435  miles  of  finished  canals  m 
Pennsylvania,  and  between  2  and  300  miles  remain  lo 
be  completed. 

The  tollowing^  is  a  general  outline  of  the  great  west- 
ern plan  of  internal  improvements  undertaken  by  the 
Pennsylvania  Canal  Commissioners,  as  expressed  in 
their  report  to  the  Legislature.  "  From  its  commence- 
ment at  Middletown  it  stretches  to  the  Juniata — thence 
up  that  river  to  the  foot  of  the  Alleghany  Mountains 
on  the  east,  and  crossing  the  ridge  to  connect  the 
waters  of  the  Snscuehannah  with  tne  Alleghany  and 
Ohio  rivers,  ascending  the  main  branch  of  tne  Susque- 
hannah  with  the  dividing  point  of  the  eastern  and 
western  branches,  it  contemplates  an  improved  navi- 
gation to  the  sources  of  these  great  streams,  as  well 
as  some  of  their  tributary  branches — presenting  one 
connected  chain  of  improved  or  canal  navigation  of 
not  less  than  five  hundred  miles  in  extent." 

The  eastern  part  of  this  work  was  completed  in 
1827 — from  the  Susquehannah  at  Middletown  to  Har- 
risburgh.  A  Basin  is  formed  in  the  river  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Swatara,  opposite  the  basin  of  the  Union 
Canal,  with  which  it  communicates  by  a  lock  of  2^  feet 
lift.  It  has  also  an  outlet  lock,  and  a  lock  opening  into 
the  Swatara  of  9  feet  lift.  The  canal  lies  principally 
in  an  easy,  alluvial  soil  from  the  Susquehannah  to  Har- 
risburgh,  and  passes  over  extensive  tracts  of  level 
country.  There  are  ten  locks  in  that  distance,  begin- 
ning with  the  outlet  lock  at  Middletown.  They  are 
all  17  feet  bv  90  in  the  chan»ber,  and  are  2\,  7,  8,  and 
9  feet  in  the  lift.  On  the  first  part  of  the  canal,  that 
is,  to  Clark's  Ferry,  23^  miles,  the  breadth  at  bottom 
is  30  feet,  at  top  40,  and  the  depth  4 ;  vyhile  the  re- 
mainder of  the  aistance  to  Harrisbuigh  it  is  larger — 3r» 
at  bottom,  45  at  top,  and  4^  deep,  to  supply  the  ma- 
chinery at  the  latter  place.  The  canal  passes  on 
aqueducts  over  Paxton,  Fishing,  Stoney,  and  Clark's 
creeks,  and  is  to  be  supplied  from  the  Susquehannah. 
from  15  miles  above  Harrisburgh,    Many  rocks  wort 


THE    PE*\^SYLVAKIA   CANAL. 


41; 


blasted  here.    There  are  basins  at  Hanrisburgh  and 
Clark's  creeks.*] 

*  The  Juniata  River  is  a  stream  of  a  remarkably  romantic  character, 
beins!  eiiciospd  l»y  hipli,  mile,  and  rocky  eminences,  which  present  a 
constant  variety  of  scenery.  Since  its  course  has  been  selected  as  a 
part  ot  the  great  canal  route,  it  may  be  safely  predicted  that  its  scenes 
are  destined  to  administer  to  the  enjoyment  of  many  travellers. 

From  the  junction  of  the  two  branches  the  canal  r/ill  run  on  the 
west  side  as  far  as  Sunbury;  a  dam  being  constructed  at  Phamokin 
Ripples,  which  will  form  an  extensive  and  convenient  harlnmr  for  boats, 
and  aiford  great  water  power  for  manufactories.  The  Legislature  have 
authorized  the  n|)ening  of  slack  water  navigation  between  the  river  and 
Shamokin  Coal  Mines. 

On  the  FrankKtown  branch  of  the  Juniata  river,  5  miles bslow  Franks- 
town,  is  an  inierinitting  spring,  which  often  has  a  flux  and  reflux  three 
or  four  times  in  an  hour.  Three  or  four  feet  from  it  is  another  spring 
which  flows  regularly  and  constantly. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  works  authorized  by  the  Lesislature  in 
1?28,  in  pursuance  of  the  great  system  of  internal  improvement  compre- 
hended in  the  Pennsylvafiia  Caiinl. 

Canals  and  locks  are  to  be  contracted  for,  let,  from  Northumberlanil 
to  the  Bald  Eagle,  on  the  west  branch  of  the  Susquehannah ;  *Jd,  from 
Northumberland  along  the  north  branch  to  the  New- York  state  line ; 
M,  from  Pittsburgh,  by  the  Beaver  route,  to  Erie  on  Lake  Erie ;  4tii, 
from  Taylor's  Ferry  to  Easton  on  the  Delaware ;  5th,  from  Blairsville  on 
the  Conemaufh^a)  to  the  highest  practicable  point. 

From  25  to  45  miles  each  of  these  sections,  and  the  whole  of  the 
French  Creek  Feeder,  were  contracted  for  that  season. 

6th.  There  is  to  be  located  a  road  across  the  Alleghany  mountains,  to 
connect  the  Juniata  and  Conemaugh  sections,  to  be  completed  as  early 
as  those  sections. 

7th.  A  railroad  is  to  be  loiaied  from  Philadelphia  through  Lancaster 
to  Columbus  or:  the  Susquehannah,  30  miles  of  which  were  contracted 
for  the  first  year. 

8th.  Surveys  and  examinations  were  made  for  a  canal  along  th(» 
Mnnongaheia  from  Pittsburgh  to  Virginia. 

9th  Surveys  and  <  laminations  from  the  Raystown  branch  of  the 
Juniata  to  the  Con<^maugh,  for  a  canal  or  railway. 

For  the  expense  of  therse  two  millions  of  dollars  were  appropriated. 

(The  banks  of  the  Susquehannah  are  the  most  fertile  in  the  eouth- 
cnstern  part  of  the  state;  ai.J  the  mountains  abound  in  anthracite  coal. 
The  mineral  wealth  which  the  great  public  works  will  draw  from  its  beds 
must  be  immense,  as  well  as  various.) 


(tt)  There  are  salt  springs  in  the  vicinity.  The  salt  water  at  tlie  Cone- 
maugh works  yields  a  bushel  of  salt  for  :}00  gallons.  The  s.ilt  w<1Ib  on 
•hp  Kiskeminetas.  the  same  quantify  for  every  40  or  50  salloiii?. 


\m 


\  Mi 


il 


'iii 


;    !l|: 


III 


\  '■!: 


il4 


IJOIITJW   TO  THE    i'()AL   MIXEs. 


ROUTE  FROM  PHILADELPHIA  TO  NEW- 
YORK. 

(See  page  432.)  The  Railroad  granted  by  New- 
Jersey,  from  Camden  to  Ambcy,  (with  a  branch  to 
Bordentown,)  will  probably  be  soon  constructed. 


ROUTES  TO  THE  COAL  MINES. 

In  consequence  of  the  opening  of  the  vast  beds  of 
coal  between  the  Delaware  and  Schuylkill  rivers,  at  a 
distance  of  about  80  or  100  miles  north  of  Philadel- 
phia, that  tract  of  country  has  become  an  object  of 
great  interest ;  and  since  the  travelling  has  been  re- 
cently improved  by  the  construction  of  roads  and 
canals,  and  the  establishment  of  good  inns,  stage 
coaches,  and  canal  boats,  a  jaunt  in  that  direction  is 
now  a  very  common  and  fashionable  one. 

The  Union  Cajmlj  which  runs  from  the  Schuylkill 
at  Reading  to  Middletown  on  the  Susquehannah,  will 
also  attract  travellers  in  this  direction.  Those  who 
find  it  convenient,  will  be  pleased  to  extend  their 
journey  west  by  the  Pennsylvania  Canal  from  Middle- 
town  to  Lancaster.  The  Pennsylvania  Canal  Com- 
pany have  some  of  the  most  commodious  boats  on  ihis 
line,  which  start  from  the  Schuylkill  below  the  Per- 
manent Bridge,  and  go  to  Middletown. 

[The  traveller  may  make  Bedford  Springs  an  object 
on  this  route.] 

In  the  tract  of  country  north  from  Philadelphia  are 
found  inexhaustible  quantities  of  coal,  in  elevated 
ridges  and  mountains  of  the  Alleghany  range,  which 
are  supposed  to  be  connected  with  those  which  are 
known  on  the  western  side  of  the  range,  although  the^ 
are  of  dift'erent  characteristics.  The  western  coal  is 
easily  combustible,  and  resembles  that  imported  from 
)jiverpool,  &c.,  while  the  former  is  hard,  very  difti 


iUL    CUAL   AlliNi.9. 


Mo 


i.uit  to  kindle,  and  burns  with  very  little  flame.  It  is, 
however,  of  great  purity,  beinj?  ot*  that  sort  known  to 
geologists  by  the  name  of  Anthracite,  and  is  now  very 
extensively  used  for  fuel  in  Philadelphia,  New-York, 
and  different  parts  of  the  country.  It  only  requires 
a  fireplace  on  the  plan  of  a  furnace,  and  a  little  ex- 
perience in  managing  it.  The  varieties  of  this  coal 
come  down  in  a  kind  of  rude  square  boats,  called 
arks,  drawing  only  12  or  15  inches  of  water,  but  con- 
taining about  '250  bushels  each,  which  may  usually  be 
seen  on  the  shores  of  the  Schuylkill,  and  at  the  docks 
in  the  Delaware.  It  is  only  a  few  years  since  this 
coal  was  supposed  to  be  entirely  worthless ;  and  now 
the  demand  is  enormous.  In  1029,25,110  tons  of  coal 
came  from  the  Lehigh  mines,  and  79,973  were  received 
by  the  Schuylkill  river. 

The  whole  length  of  the  line  of  navigation,  under- 
taken and  completeii  by  the  Schuylkill  company,  is 
110  miles;  and  the  work  is  consiciered  the  greatest 
ever  performed  in  this  country  by  private  individuals. 
It  commences  at  the  Lancaster  ISchuylkill  bridge,  and 
ends  at  Mount  Carbon.  Sixty-two  miles  of  it  are  by 
canals,  and  46  by  pools  in  the  river.  The  number  ol 
liouses  for  lock  keepers  is  65,  the  number  of  locks 
below  Reading,  39,  (toll  ^  cents,)  and  above  Reading, 
86>  (toil  4  cents,)  being  in  the  whole  125,  of  which 
28  are  guard  locks ;  overcoming  a  fall  of  610  feet. 
Toll  on  a  ton,  $11  35i  cents.  In  1827,  1329  boats 
were  loaded  at  Mount  Carbon,  for  Philadelphia,  with 
coal :  in  all,  31,364  tons. 

The  obstacles  which  the  surface  of  the  country  pre- 
sents to  works  of  such  a  nature  in  this  state,  are  un- 
usually great,  as  may  be  supposed,  when  it  is  remarked, 
that  ei^ht  ranges  of  mountains  pass  through  Pennsyl- 
vania trom  north-east  to  south-west,  and  that  the  height 
of  land  is  supposed  to  be  8  or  900  feet  in  the  lowest 
place,  so  that  the  rivers  descend  very  much  in  their 
courses.  It  has  been  necessary  to  make  more  lockage 
'>n  the  Schuylkill  line,  than  on  the  whole  Erie  cr^nal  in 


::  h 


410 


ItOLTES    TO    TMii    COAL    .Ml.NKfe. 


New-York.  Besides  this,  (he  country  is  of  the  UdHM- 
tion  formation,  with  sloping  strata,  which  cause  much 
leaking. 

In  1825,  the  expense  had  amounted  to  nearly  I'^ree 
millions ;  and  it  was  expected  that  another  million 
would  be  required  to  complete  the  navigation.  The 
articles  brought  down,  are  coal,  lumber,  limestone, 
iron  ore,  with  flour,  and  many  products  of  agriculture 
and  manufacture. 

The  amount  of  tolls  collected  in  1825,  was  only 
$15,775;  but  the  canal  was  open  jnly  a  part  of  the 
season.     It  has  since  greatly  increased. 

Road  to  the  Lehtgii  Coal  Minks, 
At  Mauch  Chunh. 

The  mail  coach  for  Bethlehem,  Wilkesbarre,  Ge- 
ueva,  Niagara,  and  Buffalo,  starts  from  Field's,  in 
Race-street,  (between  tJd  and  4th  streets.)  on  Mon- 
days, Wednesdays,  and  F'ridays,  at  6  A.  M. 

The  Bristol  and  Easton  stage  coach  goes  daily,  at 
6  A.  M.,  from  North  2d  street,  above  Market. 

The  Easton  mail,  every  week  day,  from  124  North 
4th  street. 

It  is  recommended,  however,  to  take  one  of  the 
Union  Line  Steamboats,  and  go  up  the  Delaware  to 
Bristol,  whence  stage  coaches  go  lo  Eastoti.  A  packet 
boat  was  to  be  established  on  the  canal  from  Easton  to 
Mauch  Chunk. 

Philadelphia  to  Rising  Sun,  4  miles ;  Branchtown, 
(Child's  tavern,)  4;  Shoemakertown,  8;  Jenkintown, 
10  ;  Abingion,  12  ;  Willowgrove,  14  ;  Horsham,  16  ; 
Graham  Park,  22  •  Newville,  — ;  Doyleston,  26  ;  Dan- 
ville, 29;  Roderick's  tavern,  — ;  Tohicken  bridge,  — ; 
Easton,  (see  pige  425,)  5  ;  Mauch  Chunk,  (see  page; 
428,) — .  The  traveller  may  take  either  the  ka^c 
Coachy  or  the 


KUUTK    TU   TUE   hCHl)^ LKILL  MlNEh. 


417 


Canal  Route  to  the  Schuylkill  Coal  Mimes, 

At  Mount  Carbon. 

The  Steamboat  Schuylkill  goes  from  Fairmount 
to  Manayunk  twice  a  day.  The  excursion  may  give 
a  brief  introduction  to  the  scenery  of  the  Schuylkill ; 
and  that  place  is  remarkaf)ly  wild  and  singular.  On 
the  whole  line  of  this  river,  there  are  no  less  than  31 
dams. 

In  1827,  the  amount  of  tolls  taken  on  the  Schuylkill 
was  $15,775;  and  in  1829,  $120,039. 

The  canal  boats  start  on  the  Schuylkill  at  regular 
hours,  for  which  the  traveller  is  referred  to  the  news- 
papers. A  carriage  will  be  necessary,  as  the  boats 
lie  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  city. 

On  this  route  a  boat  with  one  horse  performs  the 
work  of  7  wagons  and  28  horses.  Merchandise  goes 
from  Philadelphia  to  Mojnt  Carbon  for  ^5  a  Ion. 

Manayunk  is  a  large  manufacturing  village,  begun 
only  about  1819  or  1820.  The  manufactories  are  Fur- 
nished with  water  b^'  a  canal  3  miles  in  length,  through 
which  the  boat  will  pass.  In  1825  there  were  six 
buildings  of  this  description,  some  of  them  160  feet 
long,  called  the  Flat  Rock,  Woodville,  &c.  Manufac- 
tories. Keating  and  Co.'s  is  intended  for  6000  spin- 
dles, with  water-looms  for  weaving.  The  building  is 
20*3  feet  long  and  45  wide. 

The  water  power  is  still  sufficient  for  an  immense 
number.  There  is  an  oil,  paper,  and  grist  miU  at  this 
place,;  and  a  considerable  village  formed  of  the 
dwellings  of  the  workmen,  stores,  6lc,  This  tract  of 
country  is  very  rich  in  water  falls.  [The  county  of 
Delaware,  which  is  very  small,  contains  about  130 
manufactories  of  diiferent  descriptions,  moved  by 
water.] 

Passing  from  the  canal,  the  ^^''*  ^-^^^-^  the  Flat 
Rock  Basin  anH  'he  river. 


^ 


acH 


41o 


HUlTEa   TO   TilK   COAL    MiNKa. 


Plymouth  Locks. — Here  is  a  canal  about  lljree 
ijuarters  of  a  mile  lon^.  A  lilllo  below  it  is  a  lai-ge 
npring  which  supplie.s  a  mill.  It  yields  such  a  sur- 
p-ising  stream  of  water,  that  it  was  once  proposed  to 
conduct  it  to  Philadelphia  for  the  use  of  the  city.  The 
marble  quarries  are  also  in  this  vicinity  ;  from  which 
stone  is  sent  to  the  same  place. 

Norrisiown  contains  some  fine  liouses,  as  well  as  a 
court  house,  jail,  and  two  churches,  one  in  the  Gothic 
style,  which  stands  in  a  conspicuous  situation.  A  cot- 
ton manufactory  or  two  will  be  found  here.  The 
village  is  on  the  same  side  of  the  river  as  the  canal. 
A  bridj^e  has  been  Intely  erected  here  800  feet  long^. 

The  Sluice. — This  is  a  place  where  the  current  ot 
the  river  was  very  rar)id,and  required  a  dam— 4  miles 
from  Norristown.     Cfatfish  Island  Dam,  1  mile. 

Pottsgrove,  3G  miles  from  Philadelphia,  is  a  pretty 
village. 

Readinsy  54  miles  from  Philadelphia,  is  a  place  of 
considemble  importance,  inhabited  by  Germans,  and 
contains  some  handsome  public  buildiniis.  The  Union 
Canal  begins  below  the  town  at  a  point  60  miles  Irom 
Philadelpnia. 

[The  UrsioN  Ca^al. 

After  parting  from  the  Schuylkill  two  miles  below 
Reading,  this  canal  passes  up  the  western  shore  of  the 
river,  to  the  valley  of  the  Tulpehocken;  and  then 
follows  that  valley  till  within  five  miles  of  Lebanon, 
where  begins  the  summit  level.  In  all  this  distance 
it  rises  311  feet,  by  numerous  locks  of  4  and  8  feet 
lift.  The  canal  is  24  feet  wide  at  bottom,  4  deep, 
and  36  on  the  surface.  The  Summit  Level  is  ten  miles 
and  78  chains  in  length.  On  this  part  of  the  canal  is 
the  Tunnel ;  an  excavation  bored  through  a  hill  for  p 
distance  of  7-29  feet,  the  face  of  the  hill  having  been 
cut  away  at  the  entrance  25  feet.  This  dark  and 
Qfloomy  pasj=ag:fi  i*^  \^  feet  in  breadth  and  14  feet  high 


rni:  tmon  i  anal. 


IIH 


The  great  water-wheel,  at  tlie  mouth  ot'  Clark's 
Creek,  is  36  feet  in  diameter,  aiui  raises  the  water 
from  the  Swatara  Feeder  into  the  summit,  near  Leba- 
non. It  works  two  forcing  pumps  14, >  inches  in  di- 
ameter, and  propels  water  through  a  rafsing  main  850 
feet  long,  20  in  diameter,  to  a  perpendicular  height  of 
93  feet,  'i'he  company  have  thi-'re  also  a  steam  engine 
of  100  horse  power,  though  it  is  believed  a  head 
water  of  three  feet.  The  Union  canal  was  com- 
menced in  1«*<J3  and  finished  in  18*27;  and,  including 
the  navigable  Feeder,  is  above  80  miles  in  extent. 
The  whole  expense  was  about  a  million  and  a  half. 
It  is  supposed  that  after  the  completion  of  the  Penn- 
sylvania canal,  200,000  tons  of  goods,  &;c.,  will  pass 
through  the  Union  canal  in  a  year,  at  $-2  a  ton.  The 
extension  of  it  to  the  Swatara  coal  mines,  including  4 
or  5  miles  of  railway  on  that  route,  (in  all  18  miles,) 
will  cost  about  $120,000,  ^nd  add  about  50,000  tons 
annually.  The  distance  to  Pittsburgh  from  Middle- 
town,  by  the  Pennsylvania  canal,  will  be  296  miles. 

The  trade  on  this  canal  in  1829  amounted  to  little 
more  than  that  in  the  produce  of  its  banks  ;  hut  50  or 
60  boats  were  preparing  on  the  Susquehannah  and 
Juniata,  expected  to  be  employed  in  transportation 
upon  it.  The  difference  in  height  to  Harrisburgh  is 
$4  50  per  ton  in  favour  of  the  canal.  An  abundant 
supply  of  water  has  been  obtained  for  the  lower 
levels  l)y  the  feeders  on  the  western  sections ;  and  by 
sheathing  and  raising  the  sides  on  the  summit,  leaking 
is  prevented.  The  dam  at  the  Swatara  was  expected 
to  be  completed  early  in  1830.  Near  Pine  Grove  an 
immense  quantity  of  coal  has  been  discovered  ;  and 
the  head  of  navigation  in  that  direction  has  been  fixed 
within  four  miles  of  that  region.  That  section 
was  to  be  done  in  July,  1830 ;  and  from  its  extremity 
railroads  are  to  branch  off  along  the  valleys  of  the 
Swatara  and  its  tributaries,  as  well  as  one  at  Fish 
Creek,  to  be  constructed  either  by  the  company  or  by 
individuals.  The  coal,  it  is  said,  can  be  wrought  as 
rbeapiv  as  that  of  Mount  Carbon. 


1!'| 


4  to 


KUUTES   TO    THE    COAL    MINES. 


The  summit  level  lies  on  a  limestone  soil,  which 
makes  it  necessary  to  plank  the  bottom  and  sides  of 
the  canal,  to  prevent  the  filtration  of  water.  Narrow 
boats  have  been  introduced  on  this  canal,  fn»m  a  con- 
viction of  their  being  of  easier  draft.  This  work  was 
commenced  some  years  ago  by  David  Rittenhouse, 
Robert  Morris,  and  others,  but  given  up.  The  locks 
are  thought  capable  of  passing  a  boat  every  five  or 
six  minutes ;  and  the  canal,  it  the  banks  and  locks 
were  raised  one  foot,  would  be  large  enouM:h  for  boats 
of  40  tons,  and  able  to  admit  the  passage  of  nearly 
two  millions  of  tons  annually.  The  summit  level 
opens  westwardly  upon  the  valley  of  Clark^s  Creek. 
Hence  the  canal  passes  on  the  Swatara  river,  which 
has  two  dams,  and  whose  course  it  follows  to  Middle- 
town  on  the  Susquchannah.  The  descent  to  this  river 
from  the  summit  level  is  192  feet  6  inches,  surmounted 
by  37  locks.^  There  are  13  aqueducts  on  the  whole 
route,  one  of  them  276  feet  long,  and  another  165. 
There  are  99  lift  locks,  75  feet  wide  and  72  long : 
most  of  them  laid  with  water  cement.  The  boats 
most  approved  for  transportation  on  this  canal  are 
long,  8  feet  3  inches  wicle.  The  tolls  on  the  most 
coarse  and  bulky  articles  are  half  per  cent,  per  mile. 
Coal,  lime,  marble,  pig  iron,  &c.  pay  three-quarters 
per  cent. ;  flour,  grain,  salted  provisions,  potasn,  &c.  a 
cent  and  a  quarter ;  hoards,  plank,  &c.  one  cent  per 
1000  feet;  timber, one  cent  per  solid  foot.  Salt,  mer- 
chandise, &c.  passing  westward,  pay  two  cents  a  ton 
per  mile. 

The  toll  on  passage  boats  is  twenty  cents  a  mile  ; 
and  on  loaded  freight  hoats  only  two  cents. 

That  part  of  the  Pennsylvania  Canal  between  the 
Susquehannah  and  Harrisburgh,  was  opened  to  navi- 
gation in  1829 ;  and  large  tracts  on  different  parts  are 
in  different  stages  of  progress. 

The  following  list  of  places  and  distances  by  the 
canal  route  may  prove  of  some  interest  to  the  traveller. 
Prom   Middletown  to  the  mouth  of  the  Juniata*  24 


Till:    .UuL.NTAIN  DAM, 


4:;;  J 


jnilcs ;  hence  to  Lovviston,  up  that  ptreara,  45  ;  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Juniata  to  Northumherland,  15 ;  thence, 
y\)  the  north  branch  of  the  Susf|ui;hannah,  to  Nanticoko 
Falls,  65 ;  from  the  mouth  ot  the  Juniata  to  Smith's 
Mills  above  HuntintT'lon,  00;  from  Middletown  to 
Muncy  f  fills,  on  the  west  branch  of  the  Susqu«'han!iah, 
100;  from  Johnstown  to  Piltsburj>:h,  is  104  miles.  It 
is  Proposed  to  cross  the  Al!e|[::hany  mountains  by  a 
railway  3R  nnles  lon(r»  including;  a  turmel  a  milt;  in 
length  at  the  summit :  the  whole  expense  of  which  is 
estimated  at  JUiOnruOOO. 

fVe  return  to  the  Schuylkill  JVavi^ntion.] 

From  Reading^,  the  road  passe*  lor  some  distance 
near  the  river,  and  affords  an  opportunily  to  see  the 
canals,  dams,  &c.  made  to  assist  tfie  navigation.  It 
passes  near  Duncan'' s  Job,  a  piece  of  deep  cutting  in 
a  solid  rock,  60  feet  down.  This  place  is  five  or  six 
miles  from  Reading.  In  18^29,  a  vein  of  Anthracite 
coal  A  as  discovered  at  Keamstown,  half  the  distance 
to  Lancas  er. 

Numerous  shafts  have  been  sunk  near  the  Schuylkill 
for  Antiiracite  coal.  The  Peach  Orchard  mirjes  .ifford 
beautiful  particoloured  specimens.  In  these,  and 
others,  specks  and  lumps  of  perfect  charcoal  have 
been  found,  imbedded  in  the  fossil — with  other  ap- 
pearances which  tend  to  raise  many  conj(  ctures  con- 
cerning: the  original  formation  of  these  mines. 

The  road  to  Kamburgh  from  Reading  lies  through 
the  Gred  Limestone  Valley  of  Pennsylvania;  which 
has  the  Kittatinny  chain  of  mountains  on  the  north,  and 
the  Blue  Ridge  on  the  south.  The  surface  is  beauti- 
ililly  Varied  by  Ihe  natural  undulations  of  the  surface: 
and  the  road  affords  a  very  tine  succession  of  beautiful 
scenes,  where  the  well-cultivated  farms  are  usually 
backed  by  ranges  of  fine  mountains.  The  inhabitants 
dwell  in  good,  and  often  handsome  bouses,  v\bile  their 
great  stone  barns  speak  thorough  husbandry. 

The  Mountain  Dam,  near  Hamburgh,  is  27  feet  high, 

Nn2 


1  ii, 
iiiii 


iji 


I  If) 


T?rtTTFS    TO    TUK    roAL    MINKS. 


Hamburgu, 

This  is  a  small  village,  with  nearly  a  hundred 
houses,  with  ?»  church  situated  in  a  romantic  position, 
at  the  entrance  of  the 

Schvylkill  Water  Gap, — This  is  a  narrow  gorffe, 
through  which  the  river  runs  over  a  steep  and  rocky 
channel  for  four  or  five  miles ;  leaving  no  room  upon 
its  banks,  which  rise  abruptly  on  each  side  to  the 
height  of  several  hundred  feet.  The  road  has  been 
cut  out  along  the  face  of  one  of  these  ranges,  at  a 
great  elevation;  where  the  surface  is  in  many  places 
of  such  a  declivity,  as  to  require  it  to  be  supported 
by  walls  of  stone.  The  views  which  are  here  afforded 
to  the  traveller  Hire  romantic  and  varied  in  a  high  de- 
cree; presenting;  the  woody  mountains  \x\  different 
directions,  with  the  course  of  the  Schuylkill  winding 
through  them.  There  is  a  spring  which  passes  the 
road,  remarkable  only  as  the  boundary  between  two 
contiguous  counties. 

The  Little  Schuylkill  River,  a  branch  of  the  princi- 
pal stream,  runs  through  a  valley  of  the  same  general 
description  ;  and  here  lies  the  road  to  Mount  Carbon. 
The  country  will  hardly  admit  of  any  cultivation ; 
and  few  inhabitants  are  seen. 

Iron  Works. "-T\ie.  iron  works  of  Mr.  Old  are  situated 
at  the  termination  of  this  valley,  on  a  s  <all  meadow, 
shut  in  by  mountains :  a  wild  and  secluded  scene. 
The  proprietor  has  a  handsome  house  ;  and  the  shops 
and  aweilings  of  the  workmen  are  numerous.  The 
scenery  beyond  retains  its  interesting  character. 

The  Tunnel. — This  is  a  place  where  a  hill  has  been 
bored  through  375  yards  for  a  cana)>  about  three  miles 
from  Orwigs.' urgh. 

Port  Carbon,  at  the  hpad  of  the  Schuylkill  navi- 
gation, is  a  po5nt  at  which  the  railroads  of  Mill  Creek 
and  the  valley  terminate.     Six  miles  above,  on  the 


MOUNT    CARBOxV. 


^i;j 


route  of  the  latter,  is  Selzers — a  new  town.  This  rail- 
road reaches  to  within  about  eight  miles  of  Mauch 
Chunk, 

Orwigsuuroh, 

about  eig:ht  miles  from  the  Gap.  This  village  is  three 
rniles  distant  from  the  river,  and  enjoys  an  aereeable 
situation,  although  the  soil  is  not  very  good.  It  is 
rather  larger  than  Hamburgh,  and  contains  a  court 
house,  jail,  &c.  The  German  language  here  prevails, 
and  is  used  in  the  church  as  well  as  in  the  ordinary 
concerns  of  life.  Iron  has  lately  been  discovered  near 
this  place. 


MOUNT  CARBON, 

eight  miles,  is  in  sight  of  several  coal  mines. 

The  coal  country  in  this  region  begins  in  Luzerne, 
on  the  upper  part  of  the  Lackawana  Kiver,  following 
its  course  to  the  Susquehannah,  and  along  that  stream, 
principally  on  the  eastern  bank,  to  18  miles  beyond 
Wilkesbarre.  It  runs  south  to  the  Lehigh  River,  and 
thence  south-west,  through  Schuylk'll  county. 

It  is  estimated  to  extend  about  70  miles  ;  and  about 
the  middle  of  the  range  is  8  or  9  miles  wide,  growing 
narrower  towards  each  end.  At  Mount  Carbon  the 
coal  occurs  in  beds  4  or  5  feet  in  thickness,  generally 
running  ea^t  and  west ;  and  dipping  to  the  south  at  45 
degrees,  with  a  slate  rock  immediately  over  it,  and 
strata  of  sandstone  and  earth  above.  The  slate,  as 
usual,  in  the  vicinity  of  coal,  presents  the  impressions 
of  organiz^^d  substances  at  some  ancient  period  im- 
bedded in  its  substance :  such  as  the  leaves  of  laurel, 
fern,  &c. 

In  consequence  of  the  inclination  of  the  coal  veins 
into  the  earth,  the  miners  have,  in  some  places,  sunk 
shafts  to  the  depth  of  150  feet,  with  lateral  excava- 


424 


KOUTKS    TO    THE    COAL    MUSICS. 


tions,  east  and  west,  of  various  leng:ths  to  300.  Two 
small  carriap:es  called  Trams,  are  used  in  a  sloping 
shaft  to  bring:  the  coal  out,  being:  mndr  to  descend  by 
turns;  but  in  the  horizontal  one,  which  has  beerj  c;ir- 
ried  in  about  500  feet,  ihey  employ  wheelbarrows. 
Some  of  the  veins  run  perpendiculirly. 

Sharp  Mountain,  600  feet  hijgrh,  and  Broad  Moun- 
tain, 900,  are  pi  netrated  by  rmmen  u«^  mines.  The 
coal'  is  dug  out  with  wedges,  drills,  and  sledge^.  &c. 
atjd  as  it  costs  only  about  5%50  to  open  a  mine,  and  no- 
thing else  but  labour  in  digging  and  raising  it,  the  ad- 
vantages are  not  confined  to  capitalists.  Wagoners  are 
ready  t"  transport  the  coal  t(.  the  landings,  and  put  it 
into  boats. 

The  canal  has  been  extended  frou)  Port  Carbon  up 
to  Mill  Creek,  which  will  supply  g^reat  quantities  of 
coal.  A  railroad,  from  5  to  8  miles  long,  is  designed 
to  be  extended  tront  Schuylkill  River  to  the  mines  on 
the  West  Hranch.  In  1823  there  were  but  5  houses  at 
Mount  Carbon  ;  and  in  1827  niore  than  100,  with  1200 
inhabitants,  besides  the  landing. 

Route  to  the  Lehigh  Coal  Mines, 
»Bt  Mauch  Chunk. 

The  traveller  going  from  Philadelphia  to  the  Lehigh 
Mines,  may  take  one  of  the  steamboats  to  BrisioJ, 
whence  a  stage  coach  starts,  on  their  arrival,  for  New- 
town and  New- Hope,  34  miles  from  Philadelphia  ; 
and  thence  for  Easton,  36  miles  more,  nearly  all  of 
which  is  along  the  bank  of  the  Delaware,  and  com- 
mands a  view  of  its  wild  and  interesting  scenery. 

There  are  three  routes  from  Philadelphia  by  which 
Mauch  Chunk  may  be  reached  :  1st.  By  the  way  of 
Bethlehem  ;  2d.  By  the  way  of  Easton  through 
Doylestown  ;  and  3d.  By  the  way  of  Bristol,  also 
through  Easton.  By  either  route  you  reach  the  village 
«n  a  day  and  a  half.     [For  these  places,  see  Index.] 


EASTo^^ 


4^5 


jyi'ew-Hope  is  in  a  romantic  situation  ;  and  Goat  Hill 
rises  opposite  to  the  height  of  500  feet,  its  top  affording 
a  fine  view.  2  miles  south  of  this  village  is  Ingham's 
Spring,  virhich  furnishes  a  supply  of  water  to  no  less 
than  13  water  wheels.  Bridges  cross  the  Delaware  to 
New-Jersey  Rt  New-Hope  and  Mitchell's. 

Delaware  Water  Gap.  The  scenery  at  this  spot  is 
romantic  and  beautiful.  The  course  of  the  river 
appears  at  a  little  distance  as  if  arrested  by  two  op- 
posite mountains,  between  which  it  flows  in  a  narrow 
channel,  suddenly  contracting  itseif  to  a  furlong's 
breadth,  from  a  broad,  smooth,  and  unbroken  sheet 
like  a  lake  of  considerable  extent.  Every  feature  in 
this  beautiful  scene  leads  one  to  believe,  that  the  bar- 
rier opposed  to  the  water  was  once  much  higher  than 
now,  and  that  the  country  was  consequently  overflown 
for  a  considerable  distance  above  the  existing  banks. 
There  is  some  fertile  land  in  the  vicinity,  and  the  hills* 
contain  many  mineral  treasures :  iron  ore,  &c.  &c. 

EASTON. 

This  is  a  village  of  some  size,  and  a  central  point 
from  which  numerous  roads  diverge,  and  stage  coaches 
run  in  various  directions.  It  is  situated  in  a  rich  val- 
ley, enclosed  by  the  South  and  Blue  Mountains.  It  is 
about  52  miles  from  Philadelphia,  and  contains  about 
3000  inhabitants.  Within  a  compass  of  a  mile  and  a 
half  are  18  mills;  and  250,000  barrels  of  flour  are  an- 
nually sent  to  the  capital.  Nearly  150,000  bushels  of 
grain  are  also  consumed  at  the  distilleries  in  a  year, 
and  converted  into  poison  for  the  body  and  the  mind. 
(Writing  i^lates  are  quarried  in  this  vicinity.) 

The  following  is  a  list  of  distances  from  Easton  on 
the  different  stage  routes.  New-York,  70  miles ; 
Sdioley's  Mountain,  23  ;  Morristown,  41  ;  New- 
Brunswick,  45 ;  Bethlehem,  12  ;  Mauch  Chunk,  34  ; 
Nazareth,  7  ;  Delaware  Wind  Gap.  20  ;  Stroudsburgh, 


1  I  .i.' 


it 


426 


nouTj:  TO  THE  (;oAL  Mixi:^. 


27  ;    Wilkesbarre,  52  ;    Belvidere,  12  ;    Reading,  52  , 
Newtown,  (Sussex  county,)  40. 

From  Newfown  a  coach  runs  three  limes  a  week, 
to  Montrose,  Owe^o,  Ithaca,  and  Geneva,  and  commu- 
nicates with  the  Erie  canal,  and  with  the  direct  route 
to  Buffalo. 

TiiR  Delawarij  aisi)  TIiuson  Can  At 

was  begfun  July  ISth,  1825,  and  was  navigable  late  in 
the  year  1B28.  It  commences  at  Kingston,  on  the 
Hudson  River,  and  runs  over  to  Tarpenter's  Point,  on 
the  Delaware  River,  through  the  valley  of  the  Never- 
sink  Creek,  thence  up  the  valley  of  the  Delaware  to 
the  Lacka waxen  Creek,  at  Honesdale,  and  up  that 
creek  to  the  foot  of  the  railway.  This  is  a  continuous 
canal  of  106  miles  in  leng:th,  and  was  completed  from 
the  Delaware  to  the  Hudson  in  I8'^7,and  is  now  finished 
and  in  operation  through  its  whole  extent,  and  «oal  is 
passing  in  considerable  quantities.  The  railway  com- 
mences at  the  termination  of  the  canal,  and  runs  over 
Moosick  mountain*  to  the  coal  mines  on  the  Lacka  wana 
Creek,  in  length  16  r  miles,  overcoming  an  elevation  ol 
858  feet.  Seven  locomotive  steam  engines  will  be  em- 
ployed onthree  planes,  and  five  stationary'  engines  and 
three  brakes  on  tne  ascents.  The  ascents  where  the  sta- 
tionary engines  and  brakes  are  used,  are  graduated  at 
5  degrees.  The  railway  and  all  its  appurtenances 
will  be  completed  in  1828,  at  an  i^slimated  expense  of 
$178,000.  The  cost  of  each  locomotive  engine  about 
JSl,600,  and  weight  nb<»ul  six  tons. 

(hrbondale  is  the  mining  village  on  the  Lacka  wana 
River,  opened  by  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal 
Company.  It  is  8  miles  from  Dundaff,  and  32  from 
Wilkesbarre. 

At  Easton  will  be  seen  the  dam  over  the  Delaware? 

*  Prom  this  commandina  hoiglit  ilie  view  is  fine,  .ind  the  Catpkill 
iV'.oiintainp.  in  \e\v-Yoik.  are  visible,  at  the  distance  of  90  or  10t«  milPf= 


DELAWAKi^    AKD    HUDSON    CA.SAL. 


42') 


at  the  termination  of  the  works  for  improving  the  na- 
vigation uf  Lehigh  River,  from  Maucb  Chunk  to  this 
place.  The  state  of  Pennsylvania  intend  to  extend 
the  navigation,  b^  a  canal  on  the  western  bank  i-f  the 
Delaware,  to  Bristol,  when  the  communication  will  be 
uninterrupted  to  Philadelphia. 

The  road  to  Maucb  (hunk  leads  through  Bethlehem, 
12  miles.  This  is  a  neatly  built  place,  in  a  romantic 
and  delightful  situation,  along  the  course  of  a  swift 
running  brook  It  is  inhabited  by  Germans,  and  little 
English  will  be  heard  spoken  in  the  place.  There  is 
an  old  church  and  an  academy  for  the  education  of 
girls,  under  the  management  of  the  Moravians,  to 
which  sect  the  inhabitants  belor)g.  A  little  beyond 
Bethlehem  the  country  begins  to  assume  a  more  moun- 
tainous appearar»ce  ;  and  along  the  banks  of  the  Lehigh 
they  rise  to  a  height  of  seven  or  eight  hundred  feet, 
or  even  more. 

It  is  related  by  tradition,  that  nearly  100  years  ago, 
three  men  set  out  from  Bristol,  to  walk,  between  sun 
and  sun,  for  the  title  to  as  much  land  as  the  best  pe- 
destrian of  them  could  cr«'ss  in  that  time.  The  suc- 
cessful one  (Edward  INIarshall)  gained  for  the  con- 
tractors, from  the  liidians,  a  tract  extending  north-west 
to  Still  Water.  He  passed  up  the  Delaware  and  Le- 
high, round  Potono  Mountain,  &c.  a  distance  computed 
at  119  or  1:^0  miles. 

The  works  on  the  Lehigh  River  are  on  a  large 
scale,  and  worthy  of  particular  remark.  The  river  de- 
scends 365  feet,  and  requires  52  locks.  The  locks  are 
intended  for  the  passage  of  steamboats  capable  of  car- 
rying 150  tons  of  coal.  They  will  all  be  100  leet 
long  and  30  wide.  There  will  be  '21  dams  ;  and  the 
canals  will  be  60  feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  with  5  feet 
of  water.  The  view  of  these  works  of  art,  combined 
with  distant  sights  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  renders  the 
ndge  highly  interesting.  The  locks  are  on  a  new 
construction,  and  can  be  filled  and  emptied  both"  in 
f'^ven  minutes  by  one  attendant.     The  gate,  like  a 


11 
i 


HAUCH   CUUr^'K. 


great  float,  is  raised  when  the  water  is  let  in  ;  L:ncl,  the 
posi  being  turned  round,  the  water  flows  over  tbe  top 
of  the  gate,  when  it  gradually  sinks  again.  M.-^uch 
Chunk  shows  mountains  perhaps  1000  feet  high. 

The  Lehigh  Water  Gap,  25  miles  from  Easton  and 
11  from  Lehighton,  6  miles  from  Mauch  Chunk.  Here 
is  a  bridge. 

The  river,  for  a  mile,  passes  through  an  opening  in 
the  Blue  Ridge,  with  barely  room  for  the  road  be- 
tween the  shore  and  a  precipice. 

Near  this  spot  is  the  DevWs  Pulpit,  a  remarkable 
cavity  in  the  rocks. 

The  first  objects  that  attract  attention  near  the  vil- 
lage of  Maucn  Chunk,  are  the  lock  in  the  river,  and 
the  Chute,  or  inclined  plane,  at  the  end  of  the  railway, 
down  which  the  loaded  coal  cars  slide  to  the  wharf  on 
the  river,  v/here  they  load  the  boats  and  arks.  The 
latter  carry  about  10  tons.  The  noise  of  the  cars  com- 
ing down  the  railway  will  often  be  heard  rumbling  as 
the  traveller  approaches  the  village. 


Mauch  Chunk, 

90  miles  from  JVew-York,  and  10  from  Philadelphia. 

There  is  a  spacious  hotel  in  this  young  and  flourish- 
ing vilhge,  which  has  been  well  kept,  and  serves  as 
the  rendezvous  for  numerous  parties  of  visiters  every 
season.  Stage  coaches  have  Heretofore  run  to  Easton 
daily — fare  $1  60 — also  to  Berwick,  Newton,  and  Buf- 
falo. There  are  few  places  where  a  stranger  will  find 
more  to  gratify  him  than  here.  The  village  is  shut  in 
by  rude  mountains,  of  such  height  that  the  sun  is  invi- 
sible to  many  of  the  inhabitants  during  the  short  day?, 
'^hp  hr*'>'  '   '^manrisa  view  of  «Jorr»r»  nartsof 


M  Vttll    CliUiNK    UAlAVAi. 


'i'iif 


serves  as 


The  Railway, 

which  loads  Irom  near  the  coal  mines  to  the  Lehie^h 
River.  This  wa"  the  second  ever  constructed  in  the 
United  States — the  Quincy  Railway,  in  Massachusetts, 
bein^;  the  ('rst.  It  extends  a  distance  of  nine  miles, 
along  the  side  of  a  mountain. 

The  sleepers,  on  which  the  railway  rests,  are  of 
wood,  which  is  found  a  very  economical  substitute  for 
the  iron  used  in  England.  The  rails  are  also  of  wood, 
4  by  6  inches,  and  covered  with  an  iron  plate  J  of  an 
inch  thick.  The  whole  construction  cost,  on  a  fair 
estimate,  only  $4,500  a  mile  ;  while  the  lowest  esti- 
mate for  a  road  on  the  English  plan  was  $10,000  a 
mile. 

The  coal  mine  lies  a  little  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
mountain ;  and  the  coal  cars  are  first  drawn  by  horses 
lo  the  be^'inning  of  the  railway  up  an  acclivity  of  | 
of  a  niile.  The  summit  is  982  feet  above  the  river, 
j'he  whole  work  was  performed  in  2  months  and  SJ 
days. 

Pleasure  wagons,  like  De.irborns,  are  occasionally 
used  to  carry  strangers  up  and  down  the  railway  ;  but 
ihey  often  go  up  in  the  returnin;^  cars.  The  average 
rise  of  the  way  is  IS  inches  in  100  feet,  which  is 
scarcely  [)erceptible  to  the  eye,  and  permits  a  single 
horse  to  draw  up  three  empty  cars.  In  coming  down, 
however,  by  their  own  gravity,  the  carriages  would, 
if  perinittea,  move  with  immense  rapidity.  In  1827 
(hey  wore  reslricfed  to  a  rate  not  exceeding  8  miles  an 
hour.  It  is  said  that  they  had  previously  gone  15 
and  even  20.  The  road  generally  passes  along  a  nar- 
row shelf,  which  is  alarming  to  a  stranger  particularly 
in  descending ;  some  of  the  precipices  being  500  or 
000  leet. 

The  Tunnel  is  seen  in  going  up,  about  400  feet 
.>bovc  the  road.     Jt  is  12  feet  highj  ??  M'ide.  and  about 


I 
i 


i 


430 


i'UE   VOAL   Mll^£b. 


800  long.  It  was  cut  through  the  mountain  in  l&2b, 
to  obtain  a  short  passage  to  a  bed  of  coai  supposed  to 
lie  on  the  other  side.  A  shaft  was  sunk  sixty-four 
fieet  from  the  summit  of  the  hill  without  finding  coal ; 
five  hundred  feet  beyond  this  shaft  towards  the  north, 
a  hole  has  been  bored  to  the  depth  of  one  hundred 
and  ten  feet ;  coal  was  found  at  eighty  tVet,  and  the 
auger  continued  in  coal  to  the  extremity  of  the  bore. 
The  Company,  however,  were  disappointed ;  but 
they  have  an  inexhaustible  supply  oi  this  useful  ar- 
ticle, as  their  land  extenJs  14  miles  back  trom  the 
river,  and  along  the  load  ;  and  10  or  12  miles  are  un- 
derlaid by  beds  of  anthracite  coal.  VVhen  the  Lehigh, 
the  Delaware  Canal,  and  the  Morris  Canal,  in  New- 
.Tersey,  shall  all  be  navigable,  New-York  and  Phila- 
delphia will  derive  immense  supplies  of  fuel  from  this 
wonderful  region. 

The  cars  are  made  of  strong  oak  timbers,  and 
planked  up  on  three  sides,  with  a  swinging  door  in 
the  rear.  Some  new  ones,  however,  have  lately  been 
constructed,  in  which  stout  sheet  iron  has  been  substi- 
tuted for  plank.  They  are  6  feet  4  inches  long,  3  feet 
wide  at  top,  and  2  feet  at  bottom,  and  about  3  feet  in 
depth,  resting  on  wheels  with  cast  iron  rims  or  teiloes 
2  teet  in  diameter,  one  inch  thick, and  about  four  inches 
in  breadth,  with  a  strong  edge  or  flanch,  one  inch  in 
thickness,  and  about  two  inches  wide,  which  prevents 
them  from  slipping  off  the  rails.  The  curs  may  be 
slopped  immediately  by  a  loiig  lever  which  brings 
strong  bearers  against  two  of  the  wheels,  and  causes 
great  friction.  The  guide  to  every  brigade  of  eleven 
cars  holds  a  rope  attached  to  all  the  levers.  A  curious 
machine,  called  the  Brake,  is  also  used. 

There  is  generally  a  stop  to  oe  made  in  the  midst  of 
the  course,  to  wait  for  other  cars  passing,  and  to  oil  the 
wheels. 

Several  ingenious  expedients  have  been  resorted  to 
in  different  parts  of  the  railroad,  to  avoid  some  incon- 
veniences which  mierbt  otherwise  be  caused  by  sudden 


HVUMJ    CUU:  K    UAILUAi. 


431 


rums,  right  angles,  cross-roads,  bridges,  &c.  The  rail- 
way is  in  several  parts  supported  by  a  stone  wall  at 
the  side.  Cross-roads  arc  not  intercepted  by  it,  for 
the  rails  ^re  interrupted  so  as  to  correspond  with  the 
ruts  ;  at  the  short  turns,  one  rail  is  raised  in  a  curve  ef 
a  few  inches  to  give  the  car  a  new  direction  ;  and  at  a 
right  angle,  like  those  at  the  mine  and  at  the  chute 
above  trie  Lehigh,  revolving  platforms  are  placed 
which  turn  thn  cars  round,  45  decrees. 

The  cars  themselves  weigh  about  1500  lbs.  each, 
and  run  on  wheels  two  feet  in  diameter.  Strangers 
often  make  an  excurs'  >n  in  them  for  the  novelty  ofthe 
mode  of  travelling,  hi  1827,  not  less  than  150  such 
cars  were  in  use.  They  carry  the  coal  to  the  chute 
above  the  river,  down  which  they  are  sent  215  feet. 

At  the  end  of  the  railroad  is  a  platform  on  the  bank 
of  the  Lehigh  River,  down  which  the  coal  is  let  over 
one  of  the  rails  on  an  inclined  plane  of  750  feet  (200 
feet  perpendicular  height),  to  the  stone  houses,  the 
whart,  and  the  boats.  Each  loaded  car  is  connected 
to  an  empty  one,  which  it  draws  up,  by  a  rope  that 
passes  round  a  large  cylinder  or  drum.  A  car  goes 
down  in  about  1  minute  and  20  seconds.  The  noise 
of  the  cars  on  the  railway  is  perceptible  at  a  great 
distance.  In  1827,  1 39  cars  descended  in  a  day,  with 
198  tons  of  coal. 

The  Mine,  or  quarry,  as  itoughl,  perhaps,  properly 
to  be  called,  opens  upon  the  road  by  three  passages, 
cut  8  or  10  feet  deep  in  the  earth.  These  conduct  mto 
ail  area  150  yards  long  and  very  wide,  and  from  8  to  35 
feet  in  depth,  formed  with  great  reffularity,  by  the  re- 
moval of  many  thousand  tons  of  coal,  which  have  been 
dug  out  in  such  a  manner  as  to  keep  the  surface  on  an 
inclined  plane,  where  the  carts  drive  in,  load,  and  then 
pass  out  at  the  other  passage.  The  coal  is  very  bard, 
pure,  and  black,  with  a  beautiful  conchoidal  fracture, 
and  perfectly  clean  in  handling.  The  middle,  an  area 
50  yards    across,   has    been    dug    down  many  feet 


4S2 


I'AOM  PIIILADiai'MIA  TU  NKU-VOhU. 


deeper,  and  to  it  there  is  anotlior  cntrrincc  IVotu  ilj<- 
road. 

The  surface  of  the  p^round  wns  covered  with  a  coat 
of  sand  2  feet  thick,  int<jrsnersed  with  sanflstone  ; 
under  that  was  8  (ee*  "^  Slack  pulverized  coal ;  and 
then  came  the  coal  i  .  Near  the  road  is  a  mass  of 
slaty  coal  in  undulated  strata  which  is  of  inferior 
quality. 

Near  the  south  or  further  side  of  the  mine,  some 
beautiful  impressions  of  fern  leaves  have  been  found 
in  the  rocks. 

[Bituminous  coal  has  been  found,  in  an  extensive 
mine,  at  Lick  Creek,  near  the  Jersey  shore,  Lycoming 
county,  in  Pennsylvania.] 

Lowrytowrit  15  miles  above  Mauch  Chunk,  is  sifi'- 
ated  on  the  Lehigh  River,  in  the  midst  of  a  most  wild 
and  romantic  region.  Here  are  four  saw-mills,  which 
are  supplied  with  timber  from  the  surrounding  moun- 
tains; the  trees  being  cut  far  above,  and  slid  down 
their  steep  sides  into  the  stream.  Arks  go  down,  as 
on  the  lower  parts  of  the  river,  by  being  set  off  on 
the  flood  caused  by  opening  the  gate  of  the  dam. 
Ladies  sometimes  pass  down  in  this  manner,  boxes 
being  resorted  to  instead  of  arks,  to  keep  out  the  wa- 
ter. M:iterials  tor  building  arks  at  Mauch  Chunk,  &c. 
are  supplied  from  Lowrytown. 

fyilkesbarre,    A  rough  road  conducts  to  this  place. 


ROUTE  FROM  PHILADELPmA  TO  NEW- 
YORK. 

A  Railroad,  to  go  from  Camden  to  Amboy,  in  New- 
Jersey,  will  perhaps  soon  become  a  route  for  travellers. 

Going  in  a  steamboat  from  Market  or  Arch-street 
wharf,  the  ship  house,  in  the  navy  yard,  is  seen  over 
the  little  island  in  the  river.  Near  the  r.pper  part  of 
the  city  are  the  ship  yards ;  and  beyond,  three  glass 
houses  near  the  water,  with  white  walls  and  black 


IIOIDENTOWK. 


4Jo 


roofs.  A  steeple  and  a  shot  tower  are  the  principal 
objects  rising  above  the  great  mass  of  houses  in  the 
city. 

The  banks  of  the  Delaware  are  low,  and  present  a 
uniformity  nuite  unfriendly  to  the  picturesque.  The 
towns  are,  n(»wever,  interesting  in  the  history  of  the 
Revolution,  as  will  be  seen  a  little  beyond. 


BUR  UNO  ION, 

in  New-Jersey,  18  miles  from  Philadelphia,  presents  a 
handsome  appearance ;  with  a  row  of  fine  residences 
facing  the  river,  in  front  of  which  is  a  street  with  a 
beautiful  sloping  bank. 

Bristol, 

a  little  above,  and  on  the  opposite  side,  has  also  a 
number  of  gentlemen's  seats ;  and  handsome  flower 
gardens  on  tne  bank, ornamented  with  fine  willows, &c. 
A  stage  coach  goes  hence  to  Easton  every  day,  on  the 
arrival  of  the  steamboat — price  of  a  passage,  $3. 

BoRDENIOWN, 

28  miles  from   Philadelphia,  and  7  below  Trenton, 

stands  on  a  steep  sand  bank,  through  which  a  road  is 

cut  to  (he  water.    Just   north  of  the  village   is  the 

house  of  Joseph  Buonaparte,  the  Count  de  Survilliers, 

once  king  of  Spain.     It  is  a  long  white  building,  with 

two  low  square  towers  at  the  ends,  and  a  shot  tower 

near  it  by  the  river. 

Coal  fiaven  is  a  little  town  on  the  west  side  of  the 

river,  six  miles  above,  where  arks  and  boats  laden  with 

coal  from  the  Lehigh  mines,  await  the  boats  that  tow 

them  to  Philadelphia. 

.    Oo2 


4.S4 


VWm    rillLADKM'lIIA    TO    NKU-VORK 


'1^ 


1'kenton, 

33  miles  from  Philadelphia.  Here  the  Union  Line 
Steamboats  stop,  except  when  the  water  is  low ;  when 
they  sometimes  land  opposite  Bordentown.  Trentorj 
is  a  town  of  consideraole  size,  with  a  ^reat  number 
of  stores,  and  the  aspect  of  business.  The  bridge 
across  the  Delaware  has  five  arches,  and  is  a  hand- 
some structure. 

Lamberton  is  a  village  where  the  coach  offices  arc, 
and  apparently  forms  a  part  of  Trenton. 

The  State  Prison  is  situated  a  little  south  of  the 
town. 

In  Dec,  1776,  the  Eng;lish  had  4000  men  on  the  east 
side  of  the  Delaware,  in  Trenton,  Bordentown,  Black- 
horse,  and  Burlington,  with  strong  detachments  at 
Princeton  and  New-Brunswick,  with  their  magazines. 

On  Christmas  night,  three  divisions  of  the  American 
troops  attempted  to  cross  the  Delaware  :  one  at  Bristol 
for  Burlington;  one  a  mile  below  Trenton;  and  one 
nine  miles  above,  under  Washington  and  Greene. 
This  was  the  largest,  but  principally  militia  ;  it  ap- 
proached Trenton  by  two  roads,  attacking  it  at  8,  A.M. 
very  unexpectedly,  and  putting  the  English  and  Ger- 
man troops  (about  1600)  to  the  rout.  Five  hundred 
escaped  ;  the  rest  surrendered,  being  the  regiments  of 
Ralle,  Anspach,  and  Knyphausen.  Ralle  was  killed 
in  resisting.  The  other  divisions  could  not  cross  on 
account  of  the  ice,  and  Washington  returned  with  his 
captives  and  six  pieces  of  artillery.  This  successful 
stroke  greatly  encouraged  the  country,  as  it  was  the 
first  victory  over  those  German  mercenaries. 

Washington  soon   after  re-crossed  the  river,  and 

Eosted  his  army  at  Trenion.  On  the  2d  of  Jan.,  1777, 
lOrd  Cornwallis  reached  Trenton ;  and  Washington 
fortified  himself  on  the  Assumpsick.  But  he  was  too 
weak  to  hazard  an  engageneDt;  and  the  Delaware 
^v?»s  filled  with  ire.  ^ 


I'Ki.Nrr.T  j.v. 


lul} 


bcini^  hardly  pressed,  Washin^^ton  lirul  lormed  the 
plan  of  a  retreat,  exfH'Clin^  to  be  unable  to  remove 
any  thinu^  but  the  sohlirrs  and  what  they  could  carry, 
as  the  soil  was  so  unfavourable,  and  the  weatlier  so 
mild  aitil  wet,  that  wap;ons  could  not  pass.  Corn- 
wall is  had  sent  to  Princeton  for  a  regiment  to  join 
him,  that  he  mi^rht  attack  the  Americans  immodiately. 
In  the  niffht,  however,  Gen.  Greene  reported  that  the 
weather  nad  suddenly  become  cold  ;  and  at  midnight, 
Washington  was  able  to  begin  his  march,  with  all  his 
baggage  and  artillery.  The  British  had  no  intimation 
of  their  departure  until  they  heard  the  guns  firing  at 
Princeton. 


PRINCETON,  10  miles. 

This  village  is  situated  on  an  elevated  ridge  of 
land,  which,  on  several  sides,  rises  with  a  long  and 
easy  slope,  and  commands  a  prospect  of  considerable 
extent. 

In  approaching  it  from  the  west,  the  Theological 
Academy,  which  is  of  stone  and  4  stories  high,  is  seen 
on  the  right ;  and  Nassau  Hall  in  the  centre  of  the 
town,  opposite  the  stage  house.  The  college  yard  is 
large  and  shaded  with  trees;  and  the  burying  ground 
contains  the  ashes  of  the  presidents  of  the  institution  : 
Aaron  Burr,  Jonathan  £dwards,  Samuel  Davis,  Samuel 
Finley,  John  Witherspoon,  and  Samuel  S.  Smith. 

Washington  met  at  Stoney  Brook,  north  of  the 
present  road,  a  little  way  from  Princeton,  and  defeated 
the  British  regiment.  Ue  then  marched  north  to  the 
high  grounds. 

During  the  battle  of  Princeton,  it  is  related  that  a 
cannon  shot  entered  the  chapel,  and  tore  away  the 
head  from  a  portrait  of  George  III. 

NeW'Brunsrmck.  Here  the  steamboats  start  for 
New- York.  The  stage  coaches  drive  through  a  part 
of  the  village  to  the  steamboat  wharf.  The  forenoon 
lint  stops  at  the  hotel  for  the  night. 


436 


FROM  PHIIJIDKLPHIA  TO  T^EW-YORK. 


The  view  i?  pretty  from  the  hill  abore  ;  whence  the 
public  buildings  appear  to  good  advantage,  particu- 
larly the  Rutger's  Theological  Seminary,  which  is 
uncfer  the  synod  of  the  Dutch  Reformed  Church. 
The  banks  below  are  picturesque,  but  afterward  are 
low  and  little  varied. 

Jn  the  spring  of  1777,  Washington  advanced  from 
near  Morristown  to  Middlebrook,  where  he  intrenched 
himself  on  the  heights,  in  full  view  of  New-Bruns- 
wick. The  British  tried  various  stratagems  to  decoy 
him  from  this  commanding  position,  and  once  suc- 
ceeded ;  but  discovering  their  intent  ions  to  surround 
him,  he  quickly  regained  it,  and  they  were  soon  after 
obliged  to  give  up  all  hopes  of  penetrating  in  this  di- 
rection, and  devoted  their  attention  to  co-operating 
with  Gen.  Burgoyne,  who  was  coming  down  towards 
Albany. 

Fertk  Amboy,  13  miles.  Here  is  usually  some  ship- 
ping. Trere  is  an  academy  at  this  place  on  Capt. 
rarfridge's  plan. 

EHzabetfuown  Pinntf  15  miles  from  New- York. 
The  village  is  partly  seen  about  2  miles  inland. 

Staten  Island  is  large  and  elevated,  with  but  few 
inhabitants,  and  a  small  cluster  of  Amuses. 

On  entering  New-York  Bay,  Fort  Lafayette  is  seen 
in  the  Nnrrows,  between  Staten  and  Long  Island, 
which  is  the  passage  to  the  sea.  The  city  presents  a 
close  mass  of  houses,  with  Castle  Williams  on  Go- 
vernor's Island,  seen  near  it  on  the  right ;  and  Ellis's 
and  Bedlow's  Islands  on  the  left,  with  their  fortifica- 
tions. On  approaching,  the  prominent  objects  are  the 
tall  pyramidal  steeple  of  Trinity  church,  the  more  or- 
namented one  of  St.  Paul's,  ana  the  distant  top  of  the 
Catholic  Cathedral,  &c.  &c.  The  clusters  of  trees 
observed  on  the  shore  in  front  of  the  city,  are  on  the 
Battery,  a  place  once  fortified,  but  now  the  principal 
public  square  ;  and  Castle  Clinton,  just  west  of  it,  is  a 
place  of  amusement.   (See  the  vi§;n€tt€  on  tht  iitlepage.) 


Al'l'j;.\Dl.X. 


4:37 


FOUCIGN  MONEYS. 

iTeduced  into  those  of  the  United  States,  at  joar  value. 

/I  British  Sterling  is 

/I   Irish  is 

1  fr.  or  100  centimes  (French)  is 
$1  of  plate  or  20  reals  pi.  (Cadiz)  is 
$1     "    ' 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 


of  Havana  8  do. 
nnilrea  of  Portug:al  or  1000  reas  is 
Ducat  or  100  g^rains  (Naples)  is 
Mark  Banco  or  16  shill.  (nam.)  is 
Rix  Dol.  or  12grotes  (Bremen)  is 
Guilder  or  40  grotes  (Antwerp)  is 
Florin  or  20  stivers  of  (Holland)  is 
/I  Halifax  Currency  (N.  A.  Prov.)  is 
1  dollar  or  8  reals  (Havana)        is 


4,444  4-9 

Mills 

4,102  32-39  do. 

177i 

do. 

1,000 

do. 

1,250 

do. 

777  1-8 

do. 

333  1-3 

do. 

750 

do. 

400 

do. 

400 

do. 

4,000 

do. 

1,000 

do. 

FOREIGN  WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES.     , 

Reduced  into  those  of  the  United  States. 

Great  Britain  is  generally  the  same.  The  new  im- 
perial measure,  however,  is  about  3  per  cent,  larger 
than  the  Winchester,  22  gallons  of  the  old  being  equal 
to  31  uf  the  new  imperial — one  quarter  contains  8 
Winchester  or  American  bushels.  The  fodder  of  Lead 
in  London  and  Hull  is  19^  cwt.  The  tun  of  Oil,  262 
gallons. — The  last  of  Tar,  12  barrels.  The  load  of 
'i'imber  50  cubic  feet. 
FRANCE— 45  35  100  Kilogrammes  are  equal  to  100 

lbs. 
SPAIN -1  arrobe  is  25  lbs.  Spanish  equal  to  24 

4  arrobes,  1  quintal,  96 

The  barra  varies  from  27i  to  33  1-8  ins. 

The  same  of  Cadiz  is  27i 

The  arrobe  of  Wine  and  Oil  is  4  gals. 

From  40  to  II  arrof)p<s  make  1  pipe* 


43« 


Al'PKISJ)l!S. 


1  Fanega  of  Com  and  Salt       is  h  bus.  and  1  quart. 
15  Fanegas  are  about  8  bus. 

PORTUGAL--32  lbs.  or  1  arrobe  is  33  lbs. 

4  arrobes  or  1  quintal  is  132 

Cloth  meas.  1  vara  43  1-7  ins.  the  covido26  1-3  ins. 


Wine  4  quarteels  arc  1  Canado  or 

12  Canados  1  almuda  or 

The  moy  of  Corn  and  Salt  at  Lisbon  is 
"  "    at  Oporto . 

"  "    in  Figuieras 

HAMBURG— 1  lb.  equal  to  1 

1  lispound  16 

ANTWERP— 100  lbs.  or  quintal  is      104  lbs. 

New  qlt.  of  10  myriagramii  es  204  lbs.  14  oz. 

Canada  and  Nova  Scotia  same  as  the  United  States. 


3  pints. 
i^  gals. 
24  bus. 
30 
554 
lb.  7  oz. 
5 


POUNDS  AND  DOLLARS. 


Sterling*     ^ 

Cents, 

Mills 

Id, 

is 

1 

85 

2 

is 

3 

70 

3 

is 

5 

55 

4 

is 

7 

49 

5 

is 

9 

25 

6 

is 

11 

11 

7 

is 

12 

96 

9 

is 

14 

8; 

9 

is 

16 

66 

10 

is 

18 

51 

11 

is 

20 

36 

12 

is 

22 

22 

INDF.X. 

A. 

1 

Battle  of  Bern  id's  He 

ighta   135 

Albany        .        .        .    39.  46  | 

Bennington     . 

:        134 

Alexandria  {D.  C.) 

387 

Bloody  Brook 

.    28S 

Amboy        .        . 

436 

Brid^ewater,  or  ] 

liun- 

Amberst .        •      »  • 

282 

dy's  Lane 

.      91 

Andre's  Grare     . 

23 

Bunker's  Hill 

321 

Capture  and  Execution 

29 

Chippewa   . 

.      29 

Andover     . 

334 

Erie 

loe 

Anthony's  Nose,   Hudson 

Groton 

.    298 

Riiier  . 

26 

Johnstown 

67 

on  Erie  Canal  . 

67 

Lake  Gt^orge 

.    170 

Lake  George  . 

177 

Lexington 

335 

AntiquitiM  72.  83.  113.  124 

.377 

Montnaorency 

.    2S« 

Aqueduct,  Lower 

55 

Pequod  . 

247 

Upper^ 

55 

Piattslrurgh 

.    191 

at  Little  Falls 

61 

Princeton 

435 

Rochester 

74 

Quebec 

.    230 

over  the  Delaware 

33 

Do.  in  1775 

ib. 

Arnold's  Treachery    . 

28 

Queenstown 

.     81 

Armory  .... 

273 

Rocky  Br»ok  . 

165 

Arsenals 

Sachem's  Field    . 

.    305 

Gibbonsville    . 

49 

Saratoga 
TiconJeroga 

18d 

(^ebec 

223 

.    174 

Ascuiuey  Mountain 

290 

Trenton  . 

43^1 

Assotnption  River 

213 

Turner's  Falls      . 

>   29^ 

Attleborough  . 

315 

White  Plains  . 

32 

Auburn 

122 

Beaufort 

.    281 

Bellows  Falls     . 

288 

B. 

Bethlehem      .        . 

.    4£7 

Baker's  Falls  . 

246 

Beverly 
Black  Kock    . 

S6S 

BalUtnn  Springs 

145 

.    109 

Baltimore 

889 

Blackwell's  Island 

248 

Bauffor 

Bartiett           ... 

380 

Bloody  Brook 

.    28S 

352 

Pond 

166 

Basin  Harbour  . 

189 

Blmimfield      . 

.     116 

Batafia  .... 

115 

Blue  Hills  . 

316 

Bath  (Maine)    . 

376 

Booka  recommended 

19 

{N.  H.) 

295 

Borough 

131 

fN,  Y.)     .       . 

15 

Boston           . 

'.    318 

Hii) 


iM>i:x. 


Bordtntowii   . 

^3fJ 

C^tskill  . 

.      :i\ 

llrattli'.borougli    . 

i!97 

Mountains 

a'j 

Bristol    .... 

433 

Cuu^hnawatfa 

.       67 

Brock'M  Moniimeiit     . 

82 

Cayuica  Lake 

120 

Battery 

226 

C  fin  ire  Harbour 

.     341 

Brookfield  . 

331 

Chambly     . 

238 

Buffalo  .... 

109 

CUarli^btown,  Mits.%. 

.     320 

Bunker's  Mill      . 

322 

N.H. 

288 

Burpoyne's,  Gen.,  Expe- 

Chf\zy    . 

.     192 

dition  . 

133 

Chelmsford 

3;',6 

Battle  Ground  . 

}35 

Cbiiwuey  Point 

.     186 

i^uarlfrx 

11'? 

ChipjK!vv.'i    . 

89 

Surrender  . 

1,V) 

Citadf'l  of  Qtu'bec  . 

.     225 

Buriin^'ton,  N.  J., 

4^3i 

CinriiMV'ti  , 

401 

Vermont     .       lUO. 

','93 

Cliiverick 

.       38 

U.  Canada 

m) 

Ctpavelatid,         , 

398 

Bylowu  .... 

209 

Coal  iVhnry  of  Pn, 

11  4,  itr. 

i)       i>Ml.il 

.     ^\) 

C. 

Colleges. 

Caldwell 

16fi 

Amhprst  . 

'Z'^'l 

Camhridfrf . 

324 

Anc'over      . 

.   :^34 

Canada,  General  Re- 

Brown 

310 

marks  'u 

192 

HihI  nijton  . 

.      190 

Cnnah. 

Cimdirido-ft 

324 

BIttckstone  r final     , 

313 

DartiDOudi  . 

.     204 

Cnyui^a  and  Scnecsi     . 

122 

Hu  mil  ton 

b'.i 

Cayii^a  and  SiiMjuthan- 

Union. 

.       5J 

nah       ... 

122 

WH>hington 

260 

Cham  plain. 

63 

;       Yale    . 

.     250 

Chemiina: 

vm 

1  Concord 

337 

Ch(*if»|t«>akf>  and  Ohio 

38H 

t  C«'n<;r*.«'  Hi  II 

.     1.^4 

Delaware  and  Huii»OM 

31 

Spring 

lo6 

Erie        .        .         J02 

111 

Conned Jcul  ili^er 

i- JO.  2t)7 

Farmington 

25'? 

Jon  way 

:i46 

IMaine 

37(i 

Crjwfor'rsi  H(>us«  . 

.     363 

Murri» 

17 

Crown  Point 

186 

Ohio 

400 

Oswego        .         .       69 

.  106 

D. 

Pfnns vivaria  . 

411 

1                                                                        M^  • 

! 
i 

Kideau 

20S 

D«at'  and  Dumb  Asy 

u/ns    26,'> 

VVelland  . 

92 

1  n«»»ih.tii) .         .        . 

.     316 

Canal  Boat,  Ueiertplion  ( 

/,47 

i   U^erfield     . 

284 

Cnnajobarie 

53 

I   Dieskau.  G^n., 

.     166 

Oanaiidaioua  . 

\\:> 

Dob!>'«  Fi'ri  V       . 

2.3 

Cape  Diamond    . 

2'Zl 

Dorchester  Heights 

.    322 

Carpent«?r's  Puiut  . 

32 

Dundus 

100 

Carthage    , 

75 

'  Dunuift:i:-s!r*'et 

.      I3i 

INDEX. 


441 


.     5t 

m  W^ 

S3 

mW' 

.      67 

■  '1 

12() 

.    341 

238 

■ 

.    SliO 

m 

288 

.     192 

K^'^ 

3:^,6 

ir 

.     I8ij 

89 

ft  :^^' 

.     225 

^F''^ 

401 

.       38 

Bl> 

398 

kI 

i,  *cr. 

^@ 

.      al/J 

H 

2<»e» 

H 

.    334 

^w 

SKI 

^K' 

.     190 

H 

324 

^m  ' 

.    204 

^Hij 

ej» 

^^Hj 

.      5J 

'^E  • 

260 

^H 

.    250 

^H 

337 

flif 

.     IM 

^^P 

l.iii 

^K? 

ib.  2t)7 

Kf 

:i4ti 

^^kT''^ 

.     3di 

^^  1 

18b 

^ 

^K    -9 

IS    2<i,"> 

w^ 

.     3  Hi 

A  -. 

284 

B  ' 

.     166 

S ' ' 

'i^i 

m 

l(X) 


E 

Mohawk'8 

66.69 

East  Piy 

.     241 

Montgomery 

.      26 

East  Canada  Creek 

:              68 

Niagara  .        . 

80 

Eastport 

.    379 

Oswego 

.     107 

East  Rirer 

247 

Plain      . 

58 

Easton   . 

.    425 

Putnam 

.      26 

Elizabethtown    . 

436 

Rouse's  Point 

192 

Essex,  Conn. 

.     268 

Say  brook    . 

.    266 

N.  Y.      . 

190 

Stanwix . 

65 

F 

Ticonderoga 

.     179 

Fairfield 

.    247 

Trumbull 

297 

Falls. 

Washington 

.      22 

Baker^s 

.    245 

William  Henry 

173 

Bellows 

288 

Wolcott      . 

.    306 

Carthage    . 
Catskill 

.      76 
3S 

Fryeburgh 

G 

348 

Claverack  . 

.      38 

Gall  way 

.    151 

Glenn's    . 

163 

Gasport      . 

77 

Cohoes 

.      65 

Gates's,  Gen.,  Camp 

.     135 

Ithaca     . 

121 

Geddesburgh 

70 

Little . 

•      69 

Genesee  River 

73.  105 

Miller's  . 

246 

Geneseo     . 

|v,> 

Montmorencj     . 

.    231 

Geneva  . 

.     118 

Niagara  . 

80 

Georgetown,  Z>.  C. 

386 

Rochester    . 

.       76 

German  Flats 

.      62 

South  Hadley 

275 

Glenn's  Falls     . 

163 

Trentou 

.      63 

Goderich 

.    100 

Turner's . 

286 

Grand  River 

94 

Fishkill  MouBUin  . 

.      30 

Gravesend 

.      15 

Flushing    . 

14 

Green  Bay 
Greenfield 

lis 

Framingbam 

.    331 

.    285 

Francoiiia  . 

296 

Guelpb 

Gulf  Road      . 

99 

Frazer's  Death 

.     140 

.    S90 

Grave . 

143 

H 

Forts, 

Haddam    . 

259 

Adams 

.    306 

Kadley  . 

.    281 

Anne 

243 

Haliowell  . 

381 

Clinton        .        f 

.      26 

Hampton 

.    368 

Crown  Point  . 

186 

Hanover     . 

S9S 

Edward 

.    246 

Hsriem 

.    24J 

Erie 

102 

Hartford,  Conn. 

S64 

George 

.     172 

Vermont 

.    189 

Green     . 

308 

Hatfield      .*      . 

282 

Griswold     * 

.    298 

Haverhill,  Mass.   , 

.    S36 

Herkimer 

62 

N.H. 

295 

Independence 

.       23 

Hell  Gate 

.    S49 

Lee 

22 

Herkimer   . 

62 

Miller 

.     246 

Gfi.n. 

q8 

P? 

I 

44ii 


iM)li>. 


Hoboken 
Honesdaln  . 
Hor«eneck      .        . 
Hudson 

River 
Hydrostatic  Lock 
I 
Indians* 
Menorainies 
Mohawks 
Moheagans .        • 
Pokanokets     . 
Oneidas 

Pf  quods .         .        .247 
Senecas 
Tuscaroras 
Isle  aux  Noix  .        . 
Ithaca 

J 
Jacques  C  artier 
Johnson,  Sir  ff'm.j 
Johnstown 
Jaoction     . 

K 
Kennebi'nk     . 
Kidd,  the  Pirate, 
Kinderhook    * 
Kingston    . 

Do.  U.  C. 
Kosciusko's  Retreat 
Ktardin  Mountain  . 

I. 
Lackawaxen 
Lafayette  Sprio*     . 
Lakes. 

Cayuga        .         .         .     ISO 
Canandaigua  .         .  116 

Champlain  .         .         .     238 1 
Erie        .         .         .         101 
George        .        .        .166 
Do.  Excursion  to,  162 

Of  the  Clouds  .        359 

Ontario  .  .  .101 
St.  Peter  .        .        216 

Saratoga  .  .  .  157 
Senoca  .  .  .  120 
Winnipiseogee    .         .    341 


24 
21 
33 
247 
37 
20 
02 


113 

59 
303 
908 

66 
299 
114 

78 
193 
121 

219 

172 

67 

53 

371 

235 
38 
31 

105 
26 

380 

33 
147 


Lancaster    .        .        .  C9T 

Lapraide  .197 

Lebanon  Springs         .  4S 

Leroy     .                 .  .115 

Lewisfown           .        .  77 

Lexington       .  •     3S3 

Little  Falls         .        .  59 

Little  Schuylkill    .  .     422 

Lock  port             .        .  77 

Long- Branch          .  .      15 

Lon^  Level        .         .  62 
Lorette            ...     235 

Lovel's  Fight    .        .  349 

Pond           .  .     348 

Lowell        ...  335 

Lundy's  Lane          .  .91 

Lynn          .  363 

^  M 

Maps  recommended  .       IB 

M'Crea's  Murder      .  244 

M'Donough's  Victory  .     191 

Machiche            .      *.  213 

Manayunk              .  .417 

Maps. 

See  beginning  of  the  volaaie. 
Marblehead    ...     365 

Mauch  Chunk     .  428 

Mecbanicville         .  .     131 

Miantonimo        .         .  ^5 

Michigan  .  .  •  H^ 
Middletowu  .  .  260 
Military  Academy—West 

Point            .         .  27 

Mohawk  Castle      .  •      59 

Moheagan          .        .  302 

Montmorency         .  •    231 

Monti>elier        .        .  292 

Moni.eal         .        .  -199 

Morristown       .        .  108 

Mount  Ascutney    .  .     290 

Carbon           .  423 

Holyoke     .  .278 

Hope      .        ,  S08 

Vernon       .  .     887 

V^Tashingtoa  357 

Wahant          .  •      ^^J 

Newark    .                 .  I** 


1^DE\, 


44o 


;:95 
197 

4S 
115 

77 
333 

59 
422 

77 

62 
235 
349 
348 
335 

91 
36S 

IB 

344 

191 

213 

.  417 

>la!ne. 
.  365 

428 
131 
305 

260 

ff 

69 

302 
231 

292 
199 
li08 
290 
423 
278 
308 
987 
957 

324 


If 

I 


t 


New- Brunswick    . 
Newburgh 
Newboryport 
New-Haven 
New- Lebanon  Springs 
New-London    . 
Newport 
New- York 
Niagnra  Falls 
Norristown 
Norwich 
Northampton    . 
Notch  in  the  Mountains 
Meadow 
O 
Ogdensburg 
Ohio 
Oneida 
Orwigsburgh 
Oswego 
Oswego  Canal 
Ottawa  River 
Ox  Bow 

P 
Palatine  , 

Pnlisadoes 
Paterson 
Pawtucket 

Penitentiary  of  N.  York 
Perth  Amboy      .        • 
Philadelphia 
Piokwaket  Mountain 
Piermont 
Pine  Orchard 
Pittsburgh 
Plainfield     . 
Plains  of  Abraham 
Plattsburgh 
Plymouth 
Port  Genesee 
Port  Maitiand 
Port  Kent 
Port  Dalhousie 
Portland 
Portsmouth     . 
Pooghkeepsie 
Prescott 
Princeton 


436 

30 

366 

249 

42 

297 

306 

9 

77 

418 

303 

276 

n56 

355 

108 
397 

66 
423 
106 

69 
208 
295 

69 

21 

18 

313 

248 
4S6 
402 
346 
295 

35 
398 
306 
228 
191 
328 
105 

94 
190 

98 
371 
363 

31 
105 
485 


Prisons^  State. 

Connecticut        .  .    263 

Maine      .  376 

Massachudetta     .  .321 

New- York       .  24.  123 

New- Hampshire  .        335 

Pennsylvania       .  .     403 

Vermont           .  .         289 

Profile  Mountain     .  .    296 

Providence          .  .        300 

Q 

Quebec  ...  220 
Quecn^town  ...  81 
QiiiDcy         .        .        .        316 

R 

Rapids  of  Niagara  .       86 

Richelieu    .         218 

St.  Mary        .    312 

Red  Mountain      .  M2 

Reidesel,  Baroness,  .    143 

Hensselaerwyck   .         .         48 

Ridge  Road      .        .        .77 

Route  to  Maine  S6£ 

of  New-England         .     246 

to  Niagara      .        .  47 

to   the   Pennsylvania 

Coal  Mines  .  .  411 
to  Canada  .  .  180 
to  the  White  Mountains  33? 

Railroads. 

Quincy        .         .         .316 

Baltimore  and  Ohio         392 

Mauch  Chunk    .        .    429 

Rochester        ,    .        .  9S 

Rome      ....      66 

Rouse's  Point      .         ,         192 

Rnxbury  .         .        .317 

Royalton  .         .         291 

Rockaway       .         .         .16 

Saco            .         .  .        371 

Sacket's  Harbour  .     107 

St.  Alban's           .  .         192 

St.  Catharine's       .  .      &7 

St.  John's            .  .        194 

St.  Lawrence         r  198*  21S 

Salem        .        .  .        346 

Salina     .         .         .  69.  324 


& 


444 


INDEX. 


Saltworks         .  G8.    72 

SftltSpriiigM           .  .      71 

Sandnsky           .        .  Ill 

Sandy  Hill     .        .  .     164 

Saratof^a             .        .  153 

Saugerties      .        .  .       SS 

Savbrook           .        .  256 

Schenectady          .  ..55 

Schoharie  Creek        .  56 

Schooley's  Mountain  .       15 

Schuylersville    .        .  159 

Schuylkill  River    .  .    417 

Waterworks   407 

Shaker  Village            .  45,  46 

Singsing  ...       24 

Sleepy  Hollow    .        .  24 

Sorel  Village           .  .    215 

Springs. 

Albany     ...  40 

Ballston      .        .  .145 

Burning           .  89.  117 

Chalyl)eate         .  .    347 

Columbia         .         .  37 

New-Lebanon     .  .      42 

Saratoga          .         .  153 

Snffield       .        .  .272 

Virginia        .        .  389 

White  Mountains  .    347 

Springfield          .         .  273 

Squara  L.>ke          .  .     345 

Stafford                        .  37i 

Staten  Island           .  .    436 

Stillwater             .        .  131 

Stonington     .        .  .    300 

Stoney  Point       .        .  24 

Sugar- Loaf  Hill          .  283 

Syracuse        ...       68 

T 

Table  Rock           .  .      84 

Tappan      ...  24 

Tariffville       .        .  .267 

Tarrytown         :        .  23 

Taunton         .        .  .310 

Trenton      ...  434 

Thames  River  .     301 

ThimWl<»  Islands  256 


Thorn  astown 
Three  Rivers 
Ticonderoga 
Troy 

Uncas 
Utica 


U 


.    378 

217 

179.239 

50 


303. 


Vernon,  Mount 
Verplanck's  Point 

W 
Wadsworth's  Farm 
Walpole,  N.  H. 
Mass. 
Ware 

Washinglon 
Wachusett  Hills 
Waterford 

Water  Gaps  422.  425 

Weehawken 
Weigh  Locks 
Welland  Canal 
Welles 

West  Point    . 
Wethersfield,  Conn 

Ver. 
Whirlpool 
Whitehall       . 
White  Mountains 

River 
Wiliey  House 
Williarastown 
Wilmington,  Del. 
Windsor,  Conn. 

Ver.     . 
Wiscasset 
Wolfe's  Cove      .         219. 
Wood  Creek,  near  Lake 

Champlain 
Worcester 

y 

York,  U.  C. 
Maine 

Z 

ZaneBvil!<» 


305 
62 

387 
24 

115 

287 

383 

270 

129 

428 

21 

62 

92 

370 

26 

262 

289 

83 

241 

350 

290 

354 

242 

396 

271 

289 

377 

2291 

243 

269 

101 

369 

3P 


ft 


r 


m. 


.  378 

217 

179.239 

50 

303.  305 


387 
24 

116 

287 

,  3'" 

Sw. 

,  383 

270 

129 

425.  428 

.   21 

62 

02 

370 

26 

262 

289 

83 

241 

350 

290 

354 

242 

396 

.  271 

289 

.  377 

219.  229 

Lake 

.  243 
269 

.  101 
369 

39 


in. 


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